Halibrand wheel faux knock off's

[BB767]

Ok, I HAVE to be missing something, either a part, or an instruction! I am assuming the great wisdom of the forum will find the answer............................
I am at the point where I want to install the fake spinners on the Halibrand wheels I got from FFR. The center threaded piece fits into the center of the wheel but there is nothing to keep it sticking out of the hub! It just flops around loose and slides back into the center of the wheel. With the wheel off I can hold it and install the nut cover and spinner, but not with it on the car. What am I missing? I could just stuff some rags or something in behind it to keep it forward, but still, nothing keeps it from just spinning around when I try to tighten the spinner. I don't get it. Help please.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Some guys have had luck by using a blob of silicone to hold the center stationary in the wheel, others not so much. I drill and tap them for one setscrew per wheel (8-32 if memory serves; it doesn't need much to just keep the center in place and resist turning while the spinner is being installed).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89497&d=1511098575

Good luck,
Jeff

89497

[michael everson]

Go to McMaster-Carr and order a package of these.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#99142a630/=1dw69xc

put a small amount of silicone around the perimeter of the insert and then install with the snap ring.
The silicone will help keep it from spinning and the snap ring will keep it in place.
Mike

[Itchief]

I try to make sure the threaded center stays where I can still get ahold of it while I mount the wheel and then I use a large flat screwdriver to hold it in place while I thread on the spinner

Once it starts to get tight I pull out on the spinner and tighten it the rest of the way

Rick

[frankb]

All that said, also be sure you use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. Otherwise you may wind up cutting the spinner off in the future!

[BB767]

All that said, also be sure you use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. Otherwise you may wind up cutting the spinner off in the future!

Yea, good advice, I almost had to cut it off after the test fit!

[BB767]

Thank you for confirming it is a lousy design and not operator error. They at least could have put a small slot and flange to keep it from spinning! Geeese
I'll consider the options and make something work, thanks for the tips.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Silicone around the flange. Use anti-seize & take them off every once in awhile.

[JIMOCO]

I use a pool noodle cut a bit larger than the space between the wheel hub and the back of the threaded spinner mount. It holds the part in place and is easily crushed when the wheel is tightened.

[i.e.427]

I use a pool noodle cut a bit larger than the space between the wheel hub and the back of the threaded spinner mount. It holds the part in place and is easily crushed when the wheel is tightened.

^ and there is your answer. We do this on every customer car we build using the Halibrand style wheels. And again, don't forget a dab on anti-seize on the threads as you assemble.

[Jeff Kleiner]

AND...don't bother with the setscrews in the spinner. They can booger up the aluminum threads in the center and make it difficult to turn the spinner. The spinners are threaded such that when the car is moving forwards they naturally want to tighten not loosen so the jamming setscrews are unnecessary.

Jeff

[boat737]

AND...don't bother with the setscrews in the spinner. They can booger up the aluminum threads in the center and make it difficult to turn the spinner. The spinners are threaded such that when the car is moving forwards they naturally want to tighten not loosen so the jamming setscrews are unnecessary.

Jeff

I was thinking about that very problem with the set screw into the thread on those spinners. First time I have seen that mentioned. Thanks Jeff. (Same issue with the Koni spring adjuster on the shocks?)

So.... That must mean the spinner with the left-hand-thread goes on the right side of the car, and the right-hand-thread goes on the left side of the car, eh?

[Avalanche325]

I take mine off at least once a month for autocross. Don't want to sling one at a track worker. I used silicon, which works, but doesn't hold up for repeated removal and reinstallations.
I drilled, threaded and put set screws in the center caps that point into the inside of the rims hub area. (Not my idea, found it here) It works great. The only down side is at new tire time, you have to get in there and undo the set screws. I have a little 1/4 bit ratchet that makes it easy.

[Papa]

^ and there is your answer. We do this on every customer car we build using the Halibrand style wheels. And again, don't forget a dab on anti-seize on the threads as you assemble.

What diameter foam are you using?

Edit: Got off my lazy butt and measured and just ordered a pack six 35" x 1.5" noodles for $10.00 with free shipping. Some of the items I've purchased for this project just make me laugh.

[Itchief]

Thank you I really like the pool noodle idea

[JIMOCO]

5 Below sells noodles for $1. I think some other dollar stores do as well. I made the post but Mark "The Traveling Builder" told me about noodles.

[chuckster]

Amen to that. I broke 2 of them getting them off. All 4 were badly galled. This must be a common problem, as FFR sent a new set at no cost.

[Dave Howard]

All that said, also be sure you use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. Otherwise you may wind up cutting the spinner off in the future!

I put never seize on the threads and regretted it. When you think about it, you're dealing it aluminum on aluminum. The spinners should be hand tight, not pounder on with a rubber mallot. So the set screw will prevent them from backing off. The never seize attracts dirt which actually makes it harder to get the nut off.

[CDXXVII]

I got a little carried away and made a set of these. They lock the center hubs tight from the inside. I also apply fresh anti seize every time I take them off.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89534&d=1532750816

[boat737]

I got a little carried away and made a set of these. They lock the center hubs tight from the inside. I also apply fresh anti seize every time I take them off.



CDXXVII was kind enough to offer up a spare set of rings he made, and I got even more carried away. I attached the rings to the center hub piece with roll pins, which then are tightened with the set screws in the wheel as an assembly. So far works perfect. Thanks Marcello.

[BB767]

OK, for now I am going with a little silicone, anti-seize, hand tight on the spinners, not using the set screws, with safety wire to keep them from unscrewing. I'll see how this works if I have to remove them very often. Thanks again for all the ideas.

[i.e.427]

5 Below sells noodles for $1. I think some other dollar stores do as well. I made the post but Mark "The Traveling Builder" told me about noodles.


What diameter foam are you using?

Edit: Got off my lazy butt and measured and just ordered a pack six 35" x 1.5" noodles for $10.00 with free shipping. Some of the items I've purchased for this project just make me laugh.

I get them for $.99 at the 99 cent store. I usually buy 10 at a time. The diameter doesn't really matter, it just needs to push the back of the center cap forward.

[RJD]

I use a pool noodle cut a bit larger than the space between the wheel hub and the back of the threaded spinner mount. It holds the part in place and is easily crushed when the wheel is tightened.

That's using the old noodle ...:cool: Way to innovate.

[JIMOCO]

I don't like to brag about the size of my noodle but it is 2 3/8" in diameter.

[Papa]

I don't like to brag about the size of my noodle but it is 2 3/8" in diameter.

Well, mine is only 1-1/2" in diameter, but I bet it's longer than yours. :p

[Murd]

I was thinking about that very problem with the set screw into the thread on those spinners. First time I have seen that mentioned. Thanks Jeff. (Same issue with the Koni spring adjuster on the shocks?)

So.... That must mean the spinner with the left-hand-thread goes on the right side of the car, and the right-hand-thread goes on the left side of the car, eh?

I misread your post, you’re right.
Box marked left goes on right and right goes on left. I figured it was marked for the side of the car, then had to take off all 4 wheels one more time! Doh!

[edwardb]

Box marked left goes on right and right goes on left. I figured it was marked for the side of the car, then had to take off all 4 wheels one more time! Doh!

Right. The right hand thread goes on the left side of the car, and the left hand thread goes on the right side of the car.

An easier way to remember (at least for me...) when you tighten the spinner, the top should turn towards the back of the car (drivers side clockwise, passenger side counter clockwise).

[totem]

Same principle as the pool noodle, just more professional: size 329 o-ring.

Spinners snap right there.

89641

[JRL16]

I screw the center piece to the wheels and safety wire the spinners by making a small kerf cut on one of the tabs that covers a lug. Run the wire under that tab then cross the wire over and both ends 180 degrees around the wheel center then spin the safety wire together and around the wheel center again to a hole in the end of the spinner. Can’t come loose. Tried to wrap the wire through one of the slots in the wheel but there isn’t clearance with the calipers on the front.

[DavidW]

All 4 of my spinners are right hand thread from Team III. I use a small toothbrush with a suction cup on the end to hold the center while putting the spinner on. I used a little anti seize and also use the set screw, no problems yet but I've only had the wheels off a few times.

I guess FFR sells spinners right and left thread.... interesting.

[apuorro]

Hi all, I purchased a Factory Five MK4. I'm working on swapping out the tires. My front two wheels spun off with no MAJOR issues. The centers seemed to be pretty loose and as I spun the spinner cap off, the center wanted to twist with it.

First off, the set screws seem to be stripped...any best practices to get the stripped set screw out?

The rear spinner caps seem to be very seized up on the center. Is there a good way to solve this problem? I'm assuming maybe the previous owner installed them incorrectly. As I'm reading this thread, it appears the previous owner did not secure the center to the rim in a good way that allows the center to move with silicone or even a pool noodle from what I've read.

Anyone have any suggestions to get the spinner off?

[Railroad]

Several good methods of addressing the issue. I am surprised someone has not tigged an aluminum hex on the end of the spinner hub, or maybe cut a slot or square hole. If mine ever get stuck, I think I would resort to a slot or 1/2" sq hole.

[GTBradley]

Same principle as the pool noodle, just more professional: size 329 o-ring.

Spinners snap right there.

89641

This seems to be a really good solution. Just to be clear, are you putting the o-ring on the outside between the wheel and the spinner only?

[BadAsp427]

This seems to be a really good solution. Just to be clear, are you putting the o-ring on the outside between the wheel and the spinner only?

Yes, that is correct... it will be between the lug nut cover and the wheel holding the center piece in place.

I actually used the "o"ring on the outside, keeps the center piece from falling out of the wheel and then use pool noodle that is about 3/4" too long in the back of it and it will compress in and hold everything firm as you tighten/loosen the knock offs.

[totem]

I put the o-ring on the spinner male thread first. Then, I pull it throught the wheel using the tribar and it snaps there.

I guess both way should work. The idea it to prevent the spinner to fall behind and to provide enough resistance for tightening.

[SDhemmings]

And the rest of the Pool noodle can be used to do body work!! It is a great multi functional tool.........then go cool off in the pool with it. :)

[ckrueger]

As others have said, DO NOT over tighten!!!!!

[jrcuz]

I've seen CRC dry graphite lube #CRC03094 recommended, also Spinner Eaze from Cobra Valley Chemicals. Haven't tried either. I ordered the "O" rings today from Theoringstore.com., 72 cents ea
JR

[EZ$]

Just wondering who the source is for the silicone "O" rings?

[chmhasy]

I just did a search on mcmaster carr PN 1283N269 a package of 5 for $6.55

[Papa]

Got a 10- pack of the red silicone ones from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN0YLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[swwebb]

Got mine at my local hardware store. $1.29 each.

[Avalanche325]

The red ones are faster. It's science.

[GTBradley]

Got a 10- pack of the red silicone ones from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN0YLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave, I really think you should change your forum screen name to “Papa Amazon”.

[EZ$]

Hey Guys, just had my first chance in a few days to check the forum. Thanks for all the leads on where to find them. I'm actually surprised that "Captain O-Ring" didn't have a source!