Foot box rivets

[Packer fan]

Should I rivet the foot box from the inside out so it’s smooth on the inside for the carpet or from the outside in, so it looks better when the hood is open?

Thanks

[edwardb]

Smooth head on the outside. Be careful to use the right grip range rivet to minimize what's inside the footbox. Insulation (which I hope you're using) and carpet will easily handle and cover the secondary (crushed) head of the rivet.

BTW, good question and attention to detail. I've seen multiple builds with the "wrong" end of the rivet in full view. Using the domed side wherever possible for visible rivets looks much more polished and professional. Details add up.

[Packer fan]

Smooth head on the outside. Be careful to use the right grip range rivet to minimize what's inside the footbox. Insulation (which I hope you're using) and carpet will easily handle and cover that end of the rivet.

BTW, good question and attention to detail. I've seen multiple builds with the "wrong" end of the rivet in full view. Using the domed side wherever possible for visible rivets looks much more polished and professional. Details add up.


Thanks for the quick reply.
I am using the 1/4" long rivets for all aluminum panel to aluminum panel. I will use rivnuts on some of the driver side foot box panels for possible access later.

Thanks again

[broku518]

2x on using the smooth side whenever visible. Also, if you are using any heat/sound insulation (coolmat in my case) it will nicely even up the bumps in your footbox and tunnel areas. So you won't see them in final carpet install.

Definitely go with rivnuts on wheel guards. It really opens up the workplace area :) I needed to do some tweaking to my side pipes and it was very helpful ...next is my first engine oil change.

[Packer fan]

...next is my first engine oil change.

Show off...:)

[David Hodgkins]

Smooth head on the outside. Be careful to use the right grip range rivet to minimize what's inside the footbox. Insulation (which I hope you're using) and carpet will easily handle and cover the secondary (crushed) head of the rivet.

BTW, good question and attention to detail. I've seen multiple builds with the "wrong" end of the rivet in full view. Using the domed side wherever possible for visible rivets looks much more polished and professional. Details add up.

I agree. I also think attention to spacing matters:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34843&d=1413771594

:)

[Avalanche325]

Thanks for the quick reply.
I will use rivnuts on some of the driver side foot box panels for possible access later.

Thanks again

Besides the top access hatch, what are you thinking? I don't think there is much that will be possible or useful. Not to mention that you want things watertight. I did a rivnut access hatch (mine was just before FFR added that). I made a gasket for it.

[Jeff Kleiner]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34843&d=1413771594



Hodgkins, you have a polishing sickness :cool:

Jeff

[Jazzman]

Hodgkins, you have a polishing sickness :cool:

Jeff

It's at once impressive, intimidating, and very disturbing!! :cool:

[42Bfast]

It's at once impressive, intimidating, and very disturbing!! :cool:

X2 ..... I don’t think my bathroom mirror is that clean!

[mlewis]

Any know if you can get the rivets (from the engine compartment side) between the footbox and the front tunnel and the upright on the floor panel when the engine (Coyote) and tranny (TKO-600) are installed ?

I would like to rivet these post install is at all possible (they are already pre-drilled)

[edwardb]

Any know if you can get the rivets (from the engine compartment side) between the footbox and the front tunnel and the upright on the floor panel when the engine (Coyote) and tranny (TKO-600) are installed ?

I would like to rivet these post install is at all possible (they are already pre-drilled)

I wouldn't count on getting any rivets into any of the engine/trans facing sheet metal from the engine side once you have the Coyote installed. Not sure you could get the aluminum panels into position either once the Coyote is in there.

[mlewis]

Ok thanks. So the only way to rivet the up-right (front) section of the floor panels is to do so prior to engine install, or pull the engine/trans or to rivet from the outside in(to the tunnel). Curious to know what approach you used?

[edwardb]

Ok thanks. So the only way to rivet the up-right (front) section of the floor panels is to do so prior to engine install, or pull the engine/trans or to rivet from the outside in(to the tunnel). Curious to know what approach you used?

For #8674, since it was my first build with a Coyote plus an early Gen 2 installation, I mocked up the engine in the engine compartment without any panels. Used that to determine the location for fuel lines, harness, PDB, PCM, etc. Then took the engine out, installed all the panels along with everything else, then put the engine back in. More is known now, and if you use one of the established layouts, you can install everything including the panels first. Then drop the engine in once. However you're comfortable. But bottom line I'd have the panels all installed except the DS footbox tops and outside, before installing the engine for good.

[mlewis]

Thanks.

[Packer fan]

Besides the top access hatch, what are you thinking? I don't think there is much that will be possible or useful. Not to mention that you want things watertight. I did a rivnut access hatch (mine was just before FFR added that). I made a gasket for it.

I was thinking both top pieces on the drivers side.
I am also going to rivnut the top of the transmission tunnel.
Is there anywhere else one might want to use them.

David,
How often do you have to repolish to keep it like that?
What do you polish it with?