Using two of FFR's brake reservoirs

[Yama-Bro]

I want to run dual brake reservoirs in my car for safety reasons. I know a lot of people buy the CNC products. I am considering getting another FFR reservoir to match the one that came with the kit and using two of them on my build. Is there any reason not to do this? If not, does anyone that upgraded to CNC have a extra FFR reservoir they'd like to sell (would need the bracket and all the hardware)?

Thanks,

Yama

[phileas_fogg]

Hey Yama,

I went with three F5 reservoirs (I have a hydraulic clutch) & recommend going with the CNC product. Two reasons: first, it's WAY easier to mount a single CNC unit rather than multiple F5 units. Second, there are slight variations between F5 reservoirs (probably due to different vendors). Some are slightly taller, some are slightly shorter, and some have different caps. Plus the CNC reservoir has a cap you can use to pressure bleed your system, which is darn handy if you're working by yourself.


John

P.S. Man, that was easy to spend your money!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/23745526728_b8ef191999_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Cbj2Pf)IMG_4141 (https://flic.kr/p/Cbj2Pf) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

[Yama-Bro]

P.S. Man, that was easy to spend your money!



Haha, It was easy, but at least I got to ask a question this time. Usually, I just read old posts and figure out what I need to buy. I feel like I got my monies worth this time. HAHA :D. Thanks for the insight!

[Boydster]

I tried using 3 F5 canisters. I had one that leaked past the bottom fitting threads no matter how I cleaned and sealed. Another that constantly wept fluid past the cap threads even when not full. None of them had any venting of any sort (besides the leaks) and they depended on a simple oring to seal the cap. And yes, as Mr. Fogg said above, it's way easier to mount 1 set of reservoirs (4 bolts) than 3 separate ones (12 bolts).

The CNC cans have a nice bellows type gasket just like most master reservoirs that allows expansion and contraction, and the lids are vented. Word of warning: There has also been 1 report I know of that said the CNC cans leaked, too. Believe it was a crack in a weld. So no matter what ya do, inspect em good and keep an eye on em for a while.

[jrcuz]

I did the triple CNC reservoirs. Per edwardb I bought mine from Car Shop Inc. Very good price new $160.00 plus shipping. I suggest you get the CNC pressure bleeding cap. I already had a cap so I can't say a price. If you go for the CNC pieces remember when you use the pressure cap don't use more than7-8 psi. Car Shop ph#309-797-4188. Carshopinc.com. I'm sure they have the double reservoirs also.
JR

[broku518]

Hey, you can have mine!

Price? You can have it for shipping plus one pizza for my boys :)

[Scott Zackowski]

Dittos on CNC reservoirs.

Great quality and well worth the price in the long run!

[GoDadGo]

Tripple Ditto on the reservoir, but went a different route using a Tilton piece since I've got a hydraulic clutch:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-576

[Richard Oben]

We ordered another one from FFR. FFR changed the reservoirs, not sure when but the one we have from about April is different. The new one mounts completely different and will be easy to mount on the frame with a small plate. The cap is vented, so maybe they heard all the issues and fixed them. Can't address the leaking part as we have not installed them yet. JMHO, YMMV. Richard.

[rychi1]

A little words on my experience, along the lines of what people said before. I am using 3 reservoirs for the reasons you mention above and I have a hydraulic clutch. I had to source my extra reservoirs from the forum because FF5 went to a 2 inch reservoir at some point similar to the picture above, from the 3 inch one originally that I had, and then changed the design altogether in January.

Mine are all installed and two of three of my reservoirs weep fluid from below the cap. I am going to try to make mine work since I have all of the holes in the firewall already, but if I were starting from scratch I would probably go a different way, or maybe get all of the version of the reservoir they are sending with the kits now.

[Yama-Bro]

Hey, you can have mine!

Price? You can have it for shipping plus one pizza for my boys :)

Well, thanks for the offer, but after reading all the responses on here, I think I'll be going the CNC route. I don't like the leaks at all. :D

Thanks to all for blowing my budget, yet again. ;)

[Papa]

Frank,

Check out Amazon for their CNC offerings. The double is $117 and the bleeder cap is $28. I have prime, so shipping is included in those prices.

[broku518]

Well, thanks for the offer, but after reading all the responses on here, I think I'll be going the CNC route. I don't like the leaks at all. :D

Thanks to all for blowing my budget, yet again. ;)

Understood, I did the same thing! :)

[Boydster]

Yep, got my Triple CNC on Amazon, cheapest price ever for new, it was in stock and had it in 2 days with free shipping.

[Bobby Doug]

I used the the FF reservoirs and after 3k miles no problems. 2 for the brakes and 1 for the hydraulic clutch. Your Money though.

[Yama-Bro]

So how does the bleeder cap work for the CNC reservoirs?

[Jazzman]

I think you will be happy with your decision. I had the same thoughts, and ultimately made the same decision you did. We agree, therefore you must be right!! :cool:

[cv2065]

I ordered my triple CNC from Amazon as well. Just be sure to shine a flashlight inside each canister in dark room and check the welds for any pinholes

[Papa]

So how does the bleeder cap work for the CNC reservoirs?

Frank,

The bleeder cap screws on in place of the regular cap. You apply a few pounds of air pressure (I used a bicycle pump -- DO NOT use an air compressor!), then crack open the bleeder screw on each caliper until all the air bubbles are gone. Periodically check the fluid level in the reservoir you are working from to be sure is doesn't run dry and pull more air into the system. Replace the regular cap and you are done.

Edit: Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinders before trying to do the calipers. For the master cylinders, disconnect the brake line from the cylinder and run a piece of tubing from the MC to the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fluid and pump the pedal until you are circulating fluid with no air bubbles. Keep adding fluid as needed to avoid pulling air into the system. Reconnect the brake line to the MC and then do the other one. You could do them at the same time with another piece of tubing.

When you use the CNC cap to bleed the calipers, you just need to have a catch bottle to avoid getting brake fluid (aka paint remover) all over your car and yourself. You won't need a second person as no pumping of the pedal is needed using this technique.

Dave

[edwardb]

Frank,

The bleeder cap screws on in place of the regular cap. You apply a few pounds of air pressure (I used a bicycle pump -- DO NOT use an air compressor!), then crack open the bleeder screw on each caliper until all the air bubbles are gone. Periodically check the fluid level in the reservoir you are working from to be sure is doesn't run dry and pull more air into the system. Replace the regular cap and you are done.

Edit: Be sure to bench bleed the master cylinders before trying to do the calipers. For the master cylinders, disconnect the brake line from the cylinder and run a piece of tubing from the MC to the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fluid and pump the pedal until you are circulating fluid with no air bubbles. Keep adding fluid as needed to avoid pulling air into the system. Reconnect the brake line to the MC and then do the other one. You could do them at the same time with another piece of tubing.

When you use the CNC cap to bleed the calipers, you just need to have a catch bottle to avoid getting brake fluid (aka paint remover) all over your car and yourself. You won't need a second person as no pumping of the pedal is needed using this technique.

Dave

X2 on this process. Exactly as described, except I do use my compressor. I turn the regulator down to 6-7 PSI and has worked out OK. I don't own a bicycle pump, but that's a good idea to make sure you don't use too much pressure. I've used this pressure bleed process on all of my builds and have never failed to get a hard pedal on the first try.

Regarding the CNC's leaking, that has come up occasionally. They are cast aluminum, and I believe the leaking is usually due to porosity in the casting. For my #8674 build, it was slightly wet on the bottom and would drip every once in a while. Not something you want with any reservoir, let alone brake fluid. I called CNC and they immediately replaced it. Excellent customer service with no questions asked. For a while they were putting a coating on the inside of the chambers. But the most recent triple I purchased didn't have it. Due to space limitations, I used the Tilton triple that GoDadGo referenced in my Coupe build. It's a quality piece, and very unlikely to leak due to its construction. But it's not shiny like the CNC. :rolleyes: I bought a spare cap and will make my own pressure cap for the Tilton piece.