Quality of FFR provided switches? Should I upgrade any of these?

[shark92651]

Before I drill any holes in my dash I thought I would see if people recommend upgrading any of these switches, in which I am worried if the hole diameter will change. Basically I have the "Lucas style" toggle switches that came with the complete kit and the wiper kit, the horn button, the light switch, and ignition. I'm mostly concerned about the Lucas style switches. They seem kind of cheap and that small bezel/nut on the front doesn't look very aesthetically pleasing and worried it may not be wide enough to hold firmly on the dash. I like the vintage look, however. Is this concern warranted or are they good enough? If I should replace, any recommendations?


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/842/43478173751_8151d54579_c.jpg

[RickP]

I upgraded the toggle style switches. The horn button works I suppose but there is better quality out there. Headlight and ignition seem to be fine.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I have never had a problem with any of the FFR provided switches in any of the cars I've built. As a humorous or interesting aside; I recently had 4 cars in the shop with the FFR ignition switch in all of them---the same key would start 3 of the 4! Guess they don't use a whole bunch of different key combinations :p

Jeff

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Use FFR switches added Bronco bezels.

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=14742&pictureid=66601

[shark92651]

I have never had a problem with any of the FFR provided switches in any of the cars I've built. As a humorous or interesting aside; I recently had 4 cars in the shop with the FFR ignition switch in all of them---the same key would start 3 of the 4! Guess they don't use a whole bunch of different key combinations :p

Jeff

So do you just install the switches with both the hex and knurled nuts on the outside of the dash cover material?



Use FFR switches added Bronco bezels.

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=14742&pictureid=66601

So are those Ford Bronco bezels?

[edwardb]

My take FWIW:

FF ignition switch: Has worked well for me. Watch the thickness of your dash material and covering. There aren't a lot of threads available to tighten it down.

FF headlight switch: Standard Delco style switch that's been around for years. The FF one is OK, but it's a knockoff. If you need to replace it, use a genuine ACDelco D1588 switch. The nut and knob provided with the kit is nice quality and will fit. I put a polished SS washer under the nut against the dash covering. Chrome would work too.

FF horn switch: It's OK, but as already mentioned there are higher quality pieces out there. Very simple single pole momentary switch, so tons of options. I like the Lucas SPB106 panel switch, but there are plenty of others.

FF toggle switches: They're solid and work fine. Kinda/sorta Lucas style. But if you put the two next to each other, not really. Either an SS washer or chrome washer under the nut works well. Or the Ford bezels is a good idea. Agree they wouldn't work great on an upholstered dash without something. If you want to go actual Lucas, make sure you get genuine Lucas parts. Not knock-offs as frequently sold. I get them here https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/136, but there are other sources. Even the real ones are a bit fragile in my experience. Get extras. Also be aware they don't have a double pole version for the hazards. So you need to use diodes. No big deal. Just can't be wired like shown in the RF schematic.

FF wiper switch: Works fine, and is the easiest way to have the high/low/park on the wipers. An actual branded Lucas part works the same and looks slightly better (different finish) but you have to decide if it's worth it.

FF indicators: They're OK and lots of builders use them. They are incandescent however. Lots of people, myself included, prefer LED's which are slightly brighter and shouldn't ever burn out. A little less of an issue since many are using the Speedhut gauges which now have the indicators built in, and they're LED.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3863_zpsgutwqoct.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3863_zpsgutwqoct.jpg.html)

[CDXXVII]

I did not use any of the FFR provided switches but it had more to do with a certain look rather than a quality issue.

The indicator lights are a bit on the hinky side but unless you go with led I could not find a better one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=58269&d=1473136303

[BEAR-AvHistory]

So do you just install the switches with both the hex and knurled nuts on the outside of the dash cover material? So are those Ford Bronco bezels?

I just used the Hex nuts or the ones with the two slots. Small blade screwdriver will tighten them. You can't see them when installed as they fit in a recess in the bezel. The Ignition switch bezel need a little dremel work to open the hole a bit for the key unit other than that not much work to fit them.

Yes mine are Bronco parts with labels engraved & filled in with black paint. Need to shop around for good pricing, same pieces vary widely in price.

[skidd]

I also kinda thought the lucas switch just didn't feel robust enough. I'm sure it's fine, but.. since I needed more.
I used Carling switches. They are pretty stout feeling, and easy to get from lots of places if I need a replacement for some reason.
I grabbed a blank dash from F5, did custom placement and all "chrome" switches with airplane style guards.
I also used toggles for pretty much everything, including ignition, so I needed more switches than just the provided lucas ones anyway.
I also went with a progressive toggle (http://www.12voltunlimited.com/Progressive-Toggle-Switch_p_40.html) for my head lights. It's an "off-on-on" DPDT switch.
And one of my favorite "upgrades".. the airplane style switch guards (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Classic-U-shaped-Toggle-Switch-Guards/182909931971?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.M BE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52935%26meid%3Df22afcf41c544d0 898bf51e49d9f6c25%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D 12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D171937727687%26itm%3D182909 931971) :)

Oh yeah.. and I totally nixed the "dash horn button". I hated that idea. the wheel center you see is fully functional! Took some creative mods to make it fit and stay and work, but it works flawlessly.

Final Result
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20170924_161030_595.jpg

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20170917_173425_595.jpg

[shark92651]

Thanks for all the input. That steering hub horn is cool, do you have link to details on how you did it?

I realized yesterday that I actually have some 7/16" 18-8 Stainless Steel SAE washers left over that I bought for my rear quick jacks mod. These should work well as bezels for the Lucas-style switches as EdwardB suggested. I have already purchased LED indicator lights to use instead of the FFR incandescent ones. I think I am going to stick with what I have for now and see how well it works out.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You might want to look into a dimmer for the LED indicators. I used LEDs for turn, high beam and a couple of warning lights; while they are great and very visible even in bright sunlight (something that can't be said for the incandescents) they sear your eyes at night.

Jeff

[Gumball]

I used a combination of FFR-supplied switches, reproduction '65/'66 Mustang stuff and Lucas OEM-style stuff.

I replaced the pull knob and pin on the FFR headlight switch with a repop Ford part, too, just for continuity. The black knobs are reproduction Lucas stuff for the heater and headlights. The one for panel dim was originally a pull for my mechanical choke (just used that knob for the look of originality), but my carb no longer has a choke mechanism on it, so that knob doesn't do anything but look cool).

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172901556_zpsnra2bzq3.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172901556_zpsnra2bzq3.jpg.html)

[skidd]

Thanks for all the input. That steering hub horn is cool, do you have link to details on how you did it?

I realized yesterday that I actually have some 7/16" 18-8 Stainless Steel SAE washers left over that I bought for my rear quick jacks mod. These should work well as bezels for the Lucas-style switches as EdwardB suggested. I have already purchased LED indicator lights to use instead of the FFR incandescent ones. I think I am going to stick with what I have for now and see how well it works out.

I don't have much on how I did the horn button, since it was just kind of an experiment that worked out perfectly as I progressed.
I've been meaning to try an put a build detail about it, but .. just haven't.
I can at least try and explain what I did.
The #1 issue is that the stock steering wheel is not compatible with anything. I mean anything!! PITA!!
The horn buttin is a Volante S6 Cobra Emblem Brushed Aluminum Horn Button.
It doesn't quite fit into the steering wheel, but a sanding wheel, some carful cutting, and some epoxy, I was able to "force" it to fit. It became a snug, but not "tight" fit.
At least this plastic piece was no big loss if I messed it up. They are a dime a dozen on line.
You have to take the plastic button part .. apart. I had to trim off a loop at one end of the spring to allow for enough room.
Just hack away until it fits and still presses and makes contact.
it's hard to see, but you can just make out the cut end of the spring sticking up through the hole in the far spade contact.
It's all about keeping the spring working, maintaining the 2 contact points, and getting it all down to size.
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20170830_210333_595.jpg
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20170830_210351_595.jpg

Insert the plastic button back into the back of the aluminum part, and you can't tell it's been hacked away.
The cobra emblem is just a sticker by the way, so I put that on way last, once I knew it was all going to work.
Then, to get it to stay put in the wheel, I had to get creative.
I replaced the F5 wheels moutning screws with, removed the stainless steel ones, and put in normal "steel" ones.
They need to be able to attract a magnet.
Measured and drilled shallow holes into the back of the aluminum part of the horn, small holes to fit 6 small neodymium magnets.
These are what lock the horn button to the wheel. that's why I had to swap out the SS screws for regular steel ones.
The snug fit if the plastic piece and the strong magnets, this horn hasn't yet moved in the modest 2k miles I have so far.
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20180719_133955_595.jpg

Then, I cut the heads off of the cap-screws that the horn button came with, and epoxy glued them into their holes.
go easy on that glue though, too much and it just squishes out around the heads. Messy.
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20180719_134044_595.jpg

Lastly.. you can see in the above pics.. I drilled a small hole down the stock wheel hub , to pass a pair of light gauge wires.
The black wire I connected to a nut at the back of the wheel mounting screws. It's the ground wire.
the white wire is much longer, and just follows the steering shaft to behind the dash, where it wires into the horn relay.
No clock spring needed. I just put a piece of plastic cable loom around the shaft and wire until it pokes past the dash.
Then, enough lose wire to just wrap back and forth as the wheel turns.
I can't yet comment on the longevity of it, since I have only 2k miles so far, but... I'm sure it'll go a long time before at worst, I'd need to replace that white wire.
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20180719_135003_595.jpg


@jeff.. if you're referring to my LED indicators.. yep.. I put in some current limiting resistors for that exact reason... too bright!! Though, I think I went too far on the turn light resistors.. now I think they're too dark. oop

[Boydster]

For the led's, I used some half-intensity small indicators from Ron Francis. Work and look great without blinding ya, even right in front of ya. I also used a lot of their switches, as most are rated for 25-30 amps, which is much more than I will put through it. But I can almost say I'll never burn up a switch.

[R. Button]

That horn button is a great idea!! Enough so I may have to give that a try too! :)

[shark92651]

You might want to look into a dimmer for the LED indicators. I used LEDs for turn, high beam and a couple of warning lights; while they are great and very visible even in bright sunlight (something that can't be said for the incandescents) they sear your eyes at night.

Jeff

I found some cheap PWM dimmers on Amazon. I'm going to see if I can hook them up to the LED indicators in the dash with a single pot switch under the dash.

[clancypm]

had 2 bad headlight switches, and my ignition switch went out