Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build Thread

[Bob Brandle]

After 15 months of discovery, lurking, and research, on June 15, I “put it in gear, let out the clutch” and ordered my Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe!

I’ve used the much appreciated FFR 2018 Summer Sale and look forward to my kit’s Factory Completion Date of August 11 and delivery around the end of August here in Scottsdale, AZ.

My first real exposure to a car “similar” to a Type 65 Coupe, was at the 1983 Monterey Historic Races, where I got to see up close and in person, a Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe. It must have been one of the authentic original six coupes since back then I don’t think that there were any replicas, nor would a replica be entered into those prestigious vintage races. I took a few photos and will soon post those.

This will be my first Factory Five kit car or kit car of any source. However, I’m not actually a rookie, having been, involved as a racing crew member, fabricator and designer back in the mid-1970s when I was in my 20s, a long time ago. For five years that was my passion and hobby after my full time engineering job at Eastman Kodak in Rochester, NY. The team was Warren Agor Racing which raced Camaros and AAGT Monza GTs in the Trans-Am and IMSA GT Series and in my first year with the team, a McLaren M8F and an M8B in the Can-Am Series. Watkins Glen was our home track. All of these were quite awesome race cars, competing in incredible racing series and for me to experience, be a part of and on the inside, was life rewarding.

No FFR content, but for background reference, I’ll soon post a single collage photo of the Warren Agor Racing team and its cars.

The last car the team and I help build and race was a 1977 AAGT Chevy Monza GT. Think Dekon Monza with full tube chassis, mostly fiberglass body and Chevy 350 power, but it was our own design and construction….Built Not Bought !!! After its last race, the owner/driver, Warren Agor, kept the car in his Rochester, N.Y. business and never raced it nor even showed it again. That was until 2006 when he and a few former crew members decided to restore it and go vintage racing. That they did. With me then living in (Silicon Valley) California, I wasn’t able to be part of the restoration, but did take in a few of their vintage races, including the 2015 Watkins Glen SVRA G.P. Festival and again in 2016 to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Tran-Am Series and Can-Am series. Following from afar, the restoration of the Monza, wet my appetite for building and working on such cars again, but now to own one myself. Then one former crew member, Ed Sullivan, purchased a FFR 818 Coupe kit and I followed him building that, again from afar (NY – CA). It was recently completed and is currently in the NY State registration process.
When the FFR Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe debuted at SEMA 2016, I became aware of it and I started to read up on its design and then follow on the FFR Forum some of the early owner/builder threads during 2017, continuing right up to the present. I realized it’s design was very familiar and similar to the 1977 Agor Monza, which I had the most involvement in and liked the best. Though one was a pure and only a race car, the other a streetable “race car” with some comforts and street finishing touches. I soon got hooked to build my own FFR Type 65 Coupe.

Back to my recent Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe Order. I did the actual FFR online purchase Saturday, June 16 in my own special, appropriate and memorable way with the 2018 running of the 24 Hours of Le Mans LIVE on Velocity TV in the background. Since “an Original” won the 24 Hours of Le Mans GT Class in 1965 this was all so surreal to me.

So now I’m preparing the garage work shop, 2 bays of a 3-car garage and obtaining the tools I’ll need, as my build plans.

My car design and build plan is for what I’ll call a “Custom Modernized Replica”, Not Period Correct, which is difficult now giving the new, totally different chassis, usual larger wheels and brakes and the lure of using some modern technology and mechanical things we have now. I do have in mind many of the design and parts choices gleaned from many of the FFR Forum Build Gurus, plus a few totally unique design elements of my own, which I’ll reveal down the road to everyone in my Build Thread. This posting is its location and this entry starts my Build Thread.

I don’t expect my Build Thread to be a long or full documentation, but hopefully it’ll be interesting and helpful to others. I’ll leave full Build documentations to some of the ambitious, and so incredibly talented experts and repeat FFR car builders on the Forum, of which there are already a number, and whom I thank so much for their contributions, resources and encouragement they have provided, of particular note Jazzman and edwardb.

And so my journey has taken that next step, purchase made, the Build soon begins.

Bob Brandle

HERE’S THE CURRENT DETAILS OF MY BUILD AND CAR:

It will be 5.0L Coyote V8 powered “Custom Modernized Replica” cruising-performance street car but not a daily driver, with just a small amount of light track driver’s schools and/or track day driving and some local car shows and “cars & coffee” appearances.

SPECIFICS OF MY ORDER SHEET:

Gen 3 Complete Coupe Kit
Gloss Black Powdercoated Chassis
Body Cut-Outs
Coupe Aero Vents/Nose Scoops
Windshield Wipers (Required in AZ, even though I don’t intend to drive in the rain)
Coyote Installation Kit
31 Spline 2015 IRS 9.75 Driveshaft
Ford Style EFI Harness
Coyote Power Steering w/Complete Kit
Coyote Gen 3 A/C Heater Kit (added Coolness “Required” here in AZ)
FFR Front Lower Control Arms – Standard Width
Roadster Front Swaybar Components
2015 IRS Swaybar Components
2015 IRS Center Section and Spindles
2015 Mustang IRS Kit
EFI In-Tank Fuel System
18x9/11” 5-Lug Halibrand Replica Wheels
2015 IRS 13” Brake Kit (may change order to Wilwood brakes before kit is completed and shipped or after, TBD)
Coupe Autometer Ultra-Lite 6 Gage Set
Delete Seats
Delete Steering Wheel
Delete Headers
Delete Dual J-Sidepipes

TO BE ORDERD SHORTLY FROM FFR:

Coyote 5.0L Gen 2 Engine + T56 Magnum 6-speec Transmission Assembly by FFR

NON-FFR SUPPLIED:

Steering Wheel – Momo Eagle
Seats – Corbeau Sportline Evolution X with Lumbar Support and Red Stitching
Exhaust – Custom System Comprising Single Large Dia. Sidepipes per side of car (Roadster like) - Coyote Shorty Headers + Pypes Mini-Cat + Flowmaster 30” Slimline Sidepipe Mufflers. Polished and Clear Ceramic Coated. This custom design is triple purposed: single sidepipe look, reduced outside temperature of sidepipe (snakebite reduction) and reduced exhaust loudness.
Tires – Likely BFG G-Force Rival - Fronts TBD (either P245 or P275) with Rears P315 on 18 inch Rims
Breeze Radiator Shrouding
Boig Motorsports Upper and Lower Gen 3 Coupe Coyote Radiator Hoses
“J65 Mustang forum member” Gen 3 Coupe Custom Alum. Triangular Tanks for Radiator Overflow/Degas and Power Steering Fluid, Polished and Clear Anodized. Hopefully these can be bought.
Scott’s Hotrods CNC Triple Remote Reservoirs for Brake (2) and Clutch Fluids, Polished and Clear Anodized
Spectre Performance Coyote Polished Aluminum Air Intake Piping with Custom Cold Air Box/Air Source
Coyote 5.0 Engine Covers with Custom Accent Painting, Design TBD
Custom Hood Hot Air Vents above the Headers
Heat & Sound Shielding – Mixture of materials for different purposes and locations: Dynamat, DEI Floor and Tunnel Shields, where possible metal plate heat shields on engine/exhaust facing sides of foot boxes, Lizard Skin in select places, etc.
Custom Dash & Interior Designs, Styling & Finishing, but whose isn’t – Specifics TBD
Russ Thompson Cobra Coupe Steering Wheel Column Mounted Turn Signal Switch
Interior Carpet – Yes, but alternative upgraded supplier selection
Custom Dash “Glovebox”
Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 Keyless Pushbutton Engine Starting System
Outside Rear View Mirrors – BRE Daytona Coupe Rear View Mirrors, w/body colored housing, black stalk
LED Lighting Throughout
Custom Trunkbox Storage Compartment behind the seats
Body Paint – Leaning toward a light metallic blue; “Antigua Blue” or FFR Vintage Racing Blue overall with Dual “White” Stripes & “White” Kahm-Back Left Rear Body Half (Color TBD – Vintage/Wimbeldon or White Lightening or Diamond White?) No historic racing decals on body, but will have Powered By Ford Performance/5.0 L Coyote Badging
TBD Surprises likely in store for areas of: Side Windows, Taillights, Rear License Plate Fitment and Lower Nose Area

[Bob Brandle]

Placeholder Index

[Jazzman]

Welcome to the neighborhood, and the insanity! I am eager to watch your build and learn how the Coupe differs from the Roadster.

[Bob Brandle]

1983 Monterey Historic Races my meeting the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe, I think this may be the 1964 Le Mans 24 Hours GT Class Winner, driven by Dan Gurney and Bob Bondurant

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87791&d=1530052676

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87790&d=1530052676

[Bob Brandle]

My racing world back in the mid 1970s, Warren Agor Racing Team

Excuse the non-FFR content, but it's part of my relevant past.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87789&d=1530052641

[Garry Bopp]

Looking forward to following your build, Bob! Welcome to the coupe crazies!

Garry

[Clover]

Congratulations on the order, I will be following your build for sure. I was sitting there watching Le Mans that Saturday as well. What a great time to order. I kept bugging my wife to come see the old footage whenever they showed the Coupe.

Pretty cool that you got to see one of the originals race in person. Seeing one run against other cars from the period would be pretty special and I doubt I will ever get to see it with how valuable they are now. I think a 250 GTO just sold for around $70 million.

My Coupe kit got to me yesterday and my build will be pretty similar to yours, so feel free to copy my work. Please just point out all the boneheaded things I did in exchange. My official build thread will be posted in the next few days and I will probably do some YouTube videos for key elements of the build. If you want any specific pictures or anything from me, please just reach out, I would be happy to help. I don't have your experience building and maintaining race cars though.

[Bob Brandle]

Clover,
Thanks for the congratulations and comments.
Wow, Great that your kit arrived this week!!! Now you can put your build into 2nd gear. I'll be looking forward to your build & thread.
I've read a few FFR kit owners/builders commenting that were no more than oil and tire changers before they ordered their kit and built their cars, and were successful.

I've done a bit of further research on that Daytona Coupe that I'm standing next to in 1983 and while the event program didn't list any history or S/N, I'm now pretty sure it's the actual 1964 Le Mans GT Class winner!!! as driven by Dan Gurney and Bob Bondurant!
Google Image Search some period photos of the Daytona Coupes running in the 1964 Le Mans and this #5 looks just like the #5 in that race, particularly the unique dual stripes. Of course that car raced for another 1-1/2 seasons, so there were certainly modifications to it, etc. And in 1983, while there were some early Roadster replicas (Arntz, etc.), I don't think there were any Cobra Daytona Coupe replicas.
A year ago I visited the Cobra Experience museum in Martinez, Calif. and there on display was a just finished new Mike McClusky built Cobra Daytona Coupe Continuation car of the #5 Le Mans 24 Hours 1964 GT Class winner. Mike McClusky is an exquisite Cobra builder in SoCal. There was documentation and that car looked remarkably similar to the one I was with in 1983. FYI, the GORGEOUS McClusky Daytona Coupe had one area of it's build that wasn't likely period correct, the side windows including the sliders, A-pillar wind deflector and rear side window air scoop were all auto glass. That air scoop was even molded glass! I should really post a few photos I took of it.

Good luck starting your build!!!

Bob

[TheBabyBadger]

Congrats Bob! Welcome to the madness! Excited to watch another build! Feel free to ALSO point out my boneheaded mistakes or give feedback and suggestions! Go easy on the transport company... they are currently promising a bit better than they can deliver, but are doing their best. Search threads for more info on that, but a fair heads up don't expect a "timely arrival" unless their personel changes are handled. Otherwise, the entire process is SMOOTH!

GOD Speed!

-Brian

[Bob Brandle]

Thanks Brian.
We'll be taking and soon comparing notes.
See your location is North Bay, CA. I just moved in March from Fremont, CA to Scottsdale, AZ. I use to attend races and events and have driven the courses of Sonoma/Sears Point Raceway, Laguna Seca and Thunderhill. I'll miss those being so close by.
Have you visited the Cobra Experience in Martinez? It's quite worth while, but check to see when it's open.

[DetactGarageMech]

Congrats and good luck on the build Bob. I'll will read with interest....

Question: the color of the coupe in your photos, are they what you remember from '83? Given the passage of time, both photos and memory might have faded, I know mine does at times. Photo quality isn't bad, were this on slides?

Kevin

[Bob Brandle]

Kevin,
Thanks for the Congrats.
Those posted images from the 1983 Monterey Historic Races were actually from scanned 4x6 or 3-1/2x5 prints that I performed a few years ago. The prints were in quite good shape given the 35 years passage of time. Originally they were 35mm film negative photo images of mine. I did perform a bit of slight Photoshop tweeking of the scanned images to reduce the shadows on the cars and bring out more detail. I tried to keep the colors true to what I remember them. The #5 Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe in 83 was not in the best of condition, not in over-restored show condition many such cars are brought up to today.

Here's a 3rd photo taken at the same time and here the Daytona looks darker, almost Guardsman Blue, but slightly lighter than the GT40 next to it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88130&d=1530397813

Bob

[Bob Brandle]

While I wait for my order Coupe to arrive, I'll keep on the temporary brief trend of displaying some influential to me Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupes. Of course even more influential and important are the FFR Type 65 Coupes throughout this Forum already built or being build.
In Spring of 2017 , I visited the Cobra Experience in Martinez, CA (SF Bay Area). And found on display this just completed newly build replica of (the above?) #5 Gurney/Bondurant 1964 Le Mans GT Class Winner.
As the display sign indicates, this is a Mike McClusky build replica, build to the nth degree of craftsmanship and quality. Note the all glass side windows, wind deflector and air scoop, not period correct, but gorgeous.
Something to shoot for in my build???!!..Not really, this is way over my head, but is an inspiration.

ENJOY!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88135&d=1530397894

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88136&d=1530399030

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88133&d=1530397823

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88132&d=1530397821

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88131&d=1530397819

[Rick1916]

Bob,

Just FYI, I took delivery of my Gen 3 Coupe this past April. We’re moving along pretty quickly with the build thanks to my good friend Chuck, a retired Boeing aeronautical engineer and builder of two previous Factory Fives. My Dart SBF 427 arrives in another couple of weeks so we’re still a ways from go carting. But you’re welcome to come visit any weekend in Clarkdale. Always happy to have help.

[Bob Brandle]

Hi Rick,
Great that you're 5 months into your Gen 3 Coupe! I know where Clarksville, AZ is having been to Sedona a few times, etc. Sure a visit to check out your car sounds great, especially when you install the engine.
After a few missed production completions (original target was Aug-11) or Stewart pickups, supposedly my Gen 3 Coupe is now on it's way and should be delivered mid this coming week!!!
Bob

[Jimtmich]

Congratulations, looks like a great plan. Look carefully at edwardb 20th annaversery roadster with 245/18 and his 65 coupe with 275/18 on the front. Tire model is as important as size as they can have different widths. I like the way the 275s fit on the rim on edwardb 65 coupe.

[Bob Brandle]

Jimtmich, Yes, I'm following EdwardB's Gen3 Coupe build very closely, have researched his other MKIV builds. I'll be building my Coupe very much like his, but with a Gen 2 Coyote, using his much appreciated wisdom and build recommendations, plus some of my own custom modification surprises. Yes, I'll be using the same wheels and tires as Paul/EdwardB. Looks like my Coupe will be delivered this Monday or Tuesday!!

[Jazzman]

Good Grief! Isn't Stewart here yet? I expected to see notices all last week that the kit would be arriving. I'm sure you are chomping at the bit! Good luck with the patience!!

[Bob Brandle]

Ready for arrival of my Type 65 Coupe, Now scheduled for this Wednesday, 9/12. "Waiting for Big Brother"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=92998&d=1536606357

[P100DHG]

Absolutely hilarious I love it!

[Automan]

OMG that is so Cool!!!! lololol Great Pic

[Bob Brandle]

Big Brother Has Arrived, on Sept-12, my FFR Type 65 Coupe was Delivered.

A big thanks to Scott of Steward Transport for making the unloading process a joy, Kevin Beamon for his own FFR expertise and encouragement, my buddy Tony Mezzacca for the decades of co-enjoyed sports/GT and formula car racing enthusiasm and for my wife and daughters for their understanding and support of my desire to undertake this project and enjoy the rides to come. Finally, thanks of course to the whole Factory Five Racing Team, who have developed and offered this exciting car to be built.

Wow, it almost sounds like I just graduated my FFR car, but, no this is just the start! Guess I’m having fun already.

Here was today’s delivery.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93117&d=1536803238

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93118&d=1536803239

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93116&d=1536803235

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93119&d=1536803239

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93121&d=1536803241

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=93120&d=1536803240

Bob

[Clover]

Congrats Bob, what a wonderful day. I hope you have some time in your calendar booked off to get started on the inventory. Keep the posts coming.

[David Williamson]

An exciting day and the fun begins. What number is yours?
David W

[Bob Brandle]

Clover, Thanks!! Such a rush to have it now in my garage. Yes, part examinations and inventory starts today.

Dave, My Gen 3 Coupe is # 115. LOL, I just missed out on 113, which actually would have been my preferred # since it contained #13, the number that was used on the race cars I was associated with. See top of this thread. Nice meeting you at Huntington Beach.

FYI, my Engine + Transmission combo is to be delivered today by Stewart. There must have been a logistic miss and they didn't deliver it with the car yesterday. I've bought from FFA, the Ford Gen 2 Coyote 5.0L Engine and a Tremec T56 Magnum 6-Speed mated together combination. I decided to go the easy and hopefully more reliable route with this combo preassembled. Additionally, I actually prefer going with the known, tried and true Gen 2 Coyote and while its crate engine supply lasts. Don't really need it for 3 to 6 months, but by then the supply might be gone.

Bob

[edwardb]

Congrats on your Coupe delivery! It's a fun project. Have a good time with inventory :o and I'll be anxious to watch your progress.

[Bob Brandle]

Thanks Paul!! Much of my build will look like dejavu to you since you're such a great builder with plenty of examples to follow. I do intend to have a few of my own wrinkles and custom design aspects though.

[fvanhook]

Very nice Bob, I am going through and trying to determine all the specs for my build right now. I to am leaning toward the Coyote package from factory five. I did get a call from my local Ford dealer. I know the service manager very well and he was trying to talk me into a new 5.4 supercharged GT500 crate motor apparently it’s an engine that they are willing to sell to me at a deep discount as much as I wanted too, I passed do to not want to get to far off the FFR path and over complicate this build.

[Mick40]

Welcome, Bob!!!! Looking forward to seeing updates!

Mick

[Bob Brandle]

fvanhook,
It's great that you're planning your car's specs and sounds like are near to placing an order.

I purchased my crate engine and transmission from Factory Five, FFA actually is their engine assembly operation. I bought the Combo Package, Gen 2 Coyote 5.0L engine mated with a Tremec T56 Magnum 6-Speed, delivered on a nice wheeled engine frame dolly and with the lifting chains in place. It was delivered with the Type 65 Coupe Complete Kit. So far so good.

FFA even installed, as part of the package, the shallower but greater capacity Moroso oil pan and conveniently removed the oil filter cooling block, that must be removed to fit in the Type 65 chassis.

Some of the reasons I bought the engine so early is that I prefer to stick with the tried and true Gen 2 coyote engine and not be an early adopter of the Gen 3 engine. I believe that the 5.4 supercharged GT500 crate engine that you mentioned would be a Gen 3 Coyote. See Edwardb's Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe build thread for his efforts to install a Gen 3 Coyote engine. As far as the horsepower that this GT500 engine would produce and the effect in a light weight Type 65 Coupe are hard to imagine other than WILD. Some desire that super high level of HP and can possible handle that, many others not. It all depends on your end desires and uses for the car, the build challenges you're looking for and your capabilities to build something close to FFR stock or way out of the box.
Bob

[Bob Brandle]

Thanks Mike.
Got my inventory done and starting to disassemble the car as delivered before starting the real assembly work.
Bob

[G-Pete]

Almost a year......what happened ??????

[Bob Brandle]

August-30-2019 UPDATE: Bob’s Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build Thread

It’s been way too long since I gave an update on my build and I apologize to everyone for not doing so.

Actually I’ve never given an update other than documenting my order and then the delivery in mid-September 2018 of the Type 65/Daytona Coupe Full Kit up on jack stands in my garage.
I didn’t intend to be in a “stealth build mode”, but really didn’t want to just post the same old build posts of step by step assembly. So when to begin? It all got away from me.

Incredibly, it’s already coming up on a full year now, but with travels and a number of new house “fix or modify it” jobs slowing me down, I’ve been working on the build more like nine or ten months and at my own careful rate.

I’ve got to say up front that I’ve been following the Gen 3 Coupe build of EdwardB/Paul Borror and have followed much of what he’s done, including many of his customization and upgrade choices. So much of my build can essentially be “viewed” on EdwardB’s Gen 3 Coupe forum build. Many thanks and appreciation to Paul, what a fabulous resource you are!!
So far, the key differences between EdwardB’s build and mine are the engine, with Gen 2 Coyote crate engine for my car versus Gen 3 for EdwardB. Standard Mustang GT brakes for my car versus Wilwood for EdwardB.
We’ve both got the Tremec T56 Magnum 6-Speed, Mustang IRS, Corbeau Evolution X seats (actually I was on to these even before Paul mentioned themon his build thread, but thank you Paul for proving that they fit), Factory Five 18”Halibrand Replica wheels with the BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires.

I’ve already bought Boig Quiet Pipes (headers & pipes) for the Gen 3 Coupe and will have them Cerakote Glacier Silver (“Alum. Mirror look”) ceramic coated.

I’m now reaching the build stages where some of my own unique customizations are getting underway for my Repli-Mod build. Repli-Mod versus a Resto-Mod because there is nothing being restored on the build, it’s more a modernized replica. To an extent, what might Shelby/Brock done in the 80s or 90s (besides that which was actually done via Superformance and Brock Coupe Daytona Coupes).
The custom dash and interior have been started. I plan on reshaped door and rear-quarter window openings and with fixed auto window glass in both (for the A/C needed in Arizona), small front splitter, small rear diffuser, centralized recessed rear license plate, different tail lights but maintaining Daytona Coupe heritage of dual stacked round tail lights.

The current status of the build is: entire suspension and brakes with lines and footbox systems installed, fuel system installed, sheet metal fitted, customized and drilled. Many other sub-assemblies have been built, parts ordered, received and await their fitting.
The sheet metal is currently out for powder coating.

Getting to know the wiring harnesses and their layout and then the initial installation of the Coyote seem to be next.

I just posted on my photo album “Bob’s Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build – 1” a total of Eighty Six (86) mostly sequential photos of my build during this past 11 months:

“Bob’s Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build – 1”
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1376

I’ll make Build Thread commentary and post the photos in the near term, but if you want to go and look at the photos now, go right ahead.

Bob

[GashF16]

Bob, these are great photos. Thanks for sharing them. I'm looking forward to seeing everything in person when I come over tomorrow!

[GashF16]

Thanks for taking time out of your day to show me and Brock your car. Your workmanship and attention to detail are really impressive. And thanks for letting us try out your seats!

113451

[Bob Brandle]

My Pleasure !!!! It was great to see your enthusiasm!!

[edwardb]

Bob, you've made some great progress. And thanks for the shout out. Glad my build thread has been helpful. Looked at your pictures and did notice something though. On your front UCA's, the zerks on the pivots should be pointed up and the offset to the top not the bottom. Check this picture below from the build manual showing the proper orientation. This is a somewhat common mistake. Fortunately you have the ball joints installed properly. Guys often get that part upside down too, and the ball joint pointing in instead of out. You wan't have to take too much apart to fix. With the nuts off the ends of the cross shafts, you should be able to remove the pivot bolts and flip the pivots over. Or you could unbolt the cross shaft from the frame and flip it over.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/UCA_zpsr4cycmg7.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/UCA_zpsr4cycmg7.jpg.html)

[Bob Brandle]

Paul,
Thanks for checking out my build thread post and the photo collection. A special Thanks for seeing that Front UCA issue. You're so valuable on this forum. I've made the corrections today and decided to install new 7/16-20 Pivot Bolts and Nyloc Nuts. The hex corners were chewed up and it's always good to go with new threads and Nyloc.

Bob

[Jazzman]

Your dash looks great. Those angled gauges are really an eyecatcher! You have made strong progress even since the last time I saw it. Good job!

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 4 Sept-2-2019 - 1
Recapping my build from Fall of 2018, here’s a few photos of my just delivered in mid September , Gen 3 Coupe from FFR and from FF-AT the Gen 2 Coyote 5.0 + Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed package, ready to start the build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113318&d=1567208464

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113320&d=1567208465

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113319&d=1567208465

Soon after the Inventory, I pulled most of the fabricated steel parts, deburred, cleaned them up and had them locally powder coat painted a satin black that closely matched the chassis’ satin black.
A good job for a build buddy, (that’s you Brock, soon after your Coupe arrives). Just keep things organized (maybe with P/Ns on paper and photographed), because your likely not too familiar with the parts, only later you will be.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113321&d=1567208466



Parts for front shocks & springs grouped

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113322&d=1567208467

Some of the parts for the Ford Mustang IRS. Note that I painted the bearing carrier/knuckles and bearing hub POR15 gloss black. That black painting theme would continue on various chassis and suspension parts. I have combined use of sating black powder coating, POR 15 gloss black, brake caliper gloss black paint and Eastwood Extreme chassis satin black paints.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113323&d=1567208467

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 4 Sept-5-2019 - 2

Still looking back to Fall of 2018, here’s the parts for the Ford Mustang GT Rear Brakes.
Calipers painted Caliper Black Paint and the steel fabricated mounting parts supplied by FFR are powder coat painted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113324&d=1567208467

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113325&d=1567208468

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113326&d=1567208468

Assembled onto the chassis are the front and rear suspensions, IRS and brake discs

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113327&d=1567208469

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113328&d=1567208469

After planning on a totally custom single pipe per side header-sidepipe exhaust system with cats, I jumped at the chance and took a leap of faith with Bob Boig and bought this set of virtually pre-release very early production set of Boig QuietPipes for the Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe. They look great after receiving them, but, of course it’ll be many months before I would mount them in any form. I plan on having then Cerekote Ceramic coated in Glacier Silver, which looks like a polished aluminum.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113329&d=1567208470

An early positioning trial

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113330&d=1567208470

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 6 Sept-4-2019 - 3

Status during the Winter of 2018-2019.
With the planned use of FFR Halibrand Replica wheel in sizes 18”x 7” and 11” with 275 and 315 tires, I decided to buy and install 1.00” thick rear wheel spacers, Eibach 90.4.25.010.3 Pro-Spacer Wheel Spacer Kit, 25mm (1 inch).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113332&d=1567208472

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113337&d=1567208475


Regarding fuel lines, I went with larger 3/8” diameter stainless steel lines (supply & return) recommended by EdwardB. This also includes upgraded Pro-M Racing High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger for 1986 – 1997 Mustangs and the Walbro GSS340 255LPH pump with this hanger. Aeroquip SS hose and connector fittings were used, as well as Ham-Let Valves and Fittings, Let-Lok compression tube fitting connectors for the 3/8” pipes, an inline Trick Flow TFS-23006 fuel filter located just in front of the fuel tank and a Breeze 17087 Switch and Big Bore Check Valve is installed in the fuel tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113338&d=1567208475

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 7 Sept-4-2019 – 4

Winter of 2019 the suspension installations, including sway bars and E-brake lines have long been installed, but here’s some photos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113339&d=1567208476

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113340&d=1567208476

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113341&d=1567208477


Spring of 2019, sheet metal fitting and rivet drilling and customizations were the tasks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113342&d=1567208477

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113343&d=1567208478

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113344&d=1567208479

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113345&d=1567208479

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 8 Sept-4-2019 – 5

Spring 2019 Sheet metal customizations.
I fabricated a custom storage bin below the rear hatch-back deck in the void above the fuel tank. Bi-folding covers mounted with SS piano hinges.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113350&d=1567208485

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113351&d=1567208486

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113352&d=1567208486

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113353&d=1567208487

I recently purchased for the Tremec T56, a Hurst shift lever (6in. No. 5387201) and a 6-Speed shift knob with the correct pattern, a Shelby GT500 unit. I guess the color with dual white stripes gives away the basic exterior paint I’m planning for this Coupe. But what exact hue/paint?? TBD.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113354&d=1567208487

To my surprise, I discovered that this shift knob’s internal mounting thread and the shift lever’s external mounting thread were not compatible. I had assumed there was greater industry standardization than there apparently is.
The lever’s thread size is significantly smaller in dia. than the shift knob’s internal threading size. I wanted to keep both items, and soon figured out a solution. I could use a dual threaded insert to join the two. What worked is an E-Z LOK 9/16-12" External Carbon Steel Self Locking Thread Insert with 3/8-16 Internal Thread Size. The 3/8-16 is the size of the shift lever threads and thus screws right on, while I had to drill out and tap, the luckily, very thick brass insert of the shift knob.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113748&d=1567635639

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 9 Sept-4-2019 – 6

Radiator shroud tunnel fitting. Although not pictured, a Breeze radiator fan shroud and Boig Cool Tubes have been bought and will be used in the build. All of this front end sheet metal will be satin black powder coated similar to the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113357&d=1567208489

Close ups of front suspension with Mustang GT Brakes, painted in Brake Caliper black paint.
Note that I have recently reversed the mounting orientation of the pivot clamps so that the grease fitting faces up. Thank you EdwardB for spotting that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113349&d=1567208484

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113346&d=1567208480

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113347&d=1567208480

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113348&d=1567208481

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 10 Sept-4-2019 – 7

Access panels fabricated for the tops of Passenger and Driver footboxes.
I decided to make the split between permanently riveted rear section and the removable front section a bit further to the rear than most I’ve seen. I figure that the purpose of the removable panels is for access to inside of the footboxes (AC System and the Foot Pedal and Fuse box/wiring and that extra open space works better for me. Note that I have an L-bracket that spans the area where the two panels meet. This adds support and the ability to add sealing material.
8-32 riv-nuts were used with 8-32 x 1/2” SS button head bolts and washers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113364&d=1567208494


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113365&d=1567208495

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113366&d=1567208495

Bought the tires and had them mounted, BF Goodrich g-Force Rival S in 275/35x18 and 315/30x18, because it’s about time to have a roller, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113356&d=1567208489

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113355&d=1567208488

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 11 Sept-4-2019 – 8

Getting to the roller stage

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113358&d=1567208490

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113359&d=1567208491

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113363&d=1567208493

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 12 Sept-4-2019 – 9

Custom Dashboard
I’ve been thinking of what “my” car’s dashboard might look like since I first was attracted to the Gen 3 type 65/Daytona Coupe literally a few months after its SEMA introduction. Now it will really be MY Dashboard, quite cool.
This ability to actually design elements of a car, that you’re then building, is certainly one of the things I’ve enjoyed most during my Factory Five journey.

For the past 2-1/2 years I’ve been scouring the Factory Five Forums and the internet for dashboard and interior ideas and images. No, I’m not going to create a wildly custom off the wall dashboard, but one that I hope blends period correct aspects with some modernization into a functional and pleasing dashboard (and interior). One does spend half or more of your time with your Factory Five car on the inside, looking at that dash, interior, and oh yeah, also the road ahead.

I’ll admit that I’ve seen some great ideas along the way, mostly on the FFR Forums and I’ll use some of what I saw and also hopefully introduce some unique custom ideas too.
I’ve decided that my dashboard will have nine gauges: Speedo & Tach, Water & Oil Temps, Oil Pressure, Electrics, Clock and a multipurpose 4-indicator gauge. I want superior visibility of all of them. Luckily the Gen 3 Coupe redesigned from the Gen 2 vastly improves the location relationship between the steering wheel and Speedo & Tach. They can now be properly seen! Bravo FFR!

I decided that living and driving in HOT Arizona, air conditioning is mandatory for 5 months of the year, so the car and dash had to accommodate AC. I’ve loved the look of the round Audi 2000-2006 TT A/C vents so have bought a set of 4 used units off e-Bay. Luckily for me, their condition and quality is almost like new.

I decided I like the silver on black with red indicator looks, especially when mounted on a black dash/interior of the AutoMeter Pro-Comp Ultra-Lite gauges offered by FFR and functionality for me is OK.

I’ve discovered the New Vintage USA (NVU) Multi-Indicator Gauge which has a blacked out face when not lite and shows turn signals, high beam and emergency flasher lighting when working. Compact and all in one.

Switches will be grouped together on a separate panel below the main dash panel. Specifics TBD, but the usual switches/controls are obvious.

I’m planning on PBS-I system from Digital Guard Dawg, wireless & push button controls for ignition control/start-stop and to add a bit of car security given that the doors won’t likely have locks on them.

Given everything that I want to place on the dash, I’ve designed a full cabin width dash that’s wider than the FFR supplied dash. I want the dashboard to be removable, but quickness is unnecessary, i.e., Not pit-stop friendly. I’ve designed a dashboard that makes use of the FFR supplied aluminum dashboard that bends 90 degrees forward to become the dash top under the windscreen. My dash is a panel that will fasten onto the front of the FFR dashboard and be removable from it.

My entire dash is not yet designed though most is already fabricated. Here’s some snapshots into my design and the actual dashboard:

Starting with the FFR supplied aluminum dash panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113749&d=1567637098

Here are my gauges:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113368&d=1567208496

The Audi 2000-2006 TT A/C Vents:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113369&d=1567208497

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113370&d=1567208498

Add in the 3rd and 4th Audi TT A/C Vents and the 9 Gauges.
You can’t image how many versions of arrangements over many months I went thru to get to this final arrangement. I started designing everything using Photoshop on my PC. Real work mockups much later.
Thanks to Forcefed/Curvey Road Gen 3 Coupe for his great looking Gen 3 Coupe dash, interior and some inspirations I got from it.
The gauges, vents and (representative) switches on the below mock up are just 1:1 prints of them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113371&d=1567208498

Steering wheel mounted to check visibility

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113372&d=1567208499


After verifying that the looks, function and fit of both the outside AND behind of the dash are OK, I proceeded to the actual sheet metal dash. Note that while FFR Sheet metal is 0.040” thick, my dash panel is 0.065” thick, more than 50% thicker and thus stiffer. I went with the thicker/stronger panel because of the Swiss-cheesed resulting panel of having so many gauge & vent holes. T5052 alum. was used.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113373&d=1567208500

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 13 Sept-4-2019 – 10

Drafting up the final layout and dimensions that will then be transferred to the alum. dash panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113374&d=1567208500

Transferred onto the dash panel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113380&d=1567208504

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113377&d=1567208502

Gauges and AC Vents displayed on the panel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113375&d=1567208501

Holes cut into the dash panel via hole saws and drill press. Thank you Jazzman for use of your drill press.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113381&d=1567208505

Below is what remains of the original FFR supplied dash panel. It has been modified to work with my dashboard design. It will serve as part of the dashboard’s backboard support structure. The windows in this dash support structure allow the dashboard mounted gauges and vents to pass thru. The front dashboard will mount to this dash support structure as well as the chassis cross tube of the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113378&d=1567208503

As can be seen below, the bottom edge of this original dashboard support structure has a stiffener in the form of an aluminum 3/8” U channel that will be riveted to the bottom angled stiffener tab.
There are also two 1” square aluminum tube sections that attach and will be riveted to this U channel and then run forward and are to be riveted to the 1” chassis cross tube. These will increase the rigidity and strength of the bottom of the dashboard support structure, yet be out of the way for the wiring, AC ducts, etc. that will be located behind the dashboards.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113379&d=1567208504

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 14 Sept-4-2019 – 11

All 9 gauges will be slightly angled toward the driver by using angled gauge mounts.

The 6 small AutoMeter gauges will be angled slightly left and the Speedo, Tach and NVU gauges slightly upwards towards the driver’s face.

For the 6 small AutoMeter gauges, AutoMeter sells quite nice black beveled angle ring mounts (#2234) with aluminum square U securement brackets.

For the large Speedo and Tach gauges AutoMeter does not offer any such angle ring mounts so I decided to make my own. I searched around and luckily found at Home Depot perfectly sized nominal 3” I.D. with thick walls black PVC plastic pipe connectors. The Speedo and Tach gauges slipped right in with very little play. With careful measuring and then even more careful hand sawing and filing I was able to cut the needed two angle ring mounts. For the NVU gauge, I was also able to locate a properly sized black PVC tube and fabricate the needed angle ring mount.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113382&d=1567208506

The Gauges in their angled mounts trial mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113383&d=1567208507

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113385&d=1567208508

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113384&d=1567208507

The Audi TT A/C vents trial mounted (not angled, straight ahead)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113386&d=1567208509

The gauged dash panel will have box endplates on either side that will be riveted to the gauged dash panel. Then each endplate will be secured with 10-24 bolts into riv-nuts mounted in the 1-1/2” chassis cross member at the firewall.

I’ve trial tested all of this with just some Cleco rivets and the full set of bolts in the riv-nuts and the resulting dash structure is amazingly rock solid. It’ll be even better with all of the permanent rivets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113387&d=1567208510

Toward the very end of the build, the front dash panel, switches & controls panel, transmission tunnel panels and door panels will be black “leatherette” covered with colored accent stitching added by a professional upholsterer. The top of the dash will receive some special styling (TBD) and be covered in glued on black Alcantara, which offers better glare and reflection management off the windshield and which holds up better in the hot and bright Arizona weather than glued on leather/leatherette

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 15 Sept-4-2019 – 12

This is my seat and harness:
Corbeau Evolution X with fixed back and adjustable lumbar support
Schroth Rallye Cross boltv2 4-Point harness in blue.

I chose the Schroth Rallye harness due to its advanced 4-point system that acts like a 5-point system in severe decelerations (aka, crash) and the very easy ingress, egress and single buckle-up. Essentially there are two loops that one places the arms thru then a single central buckle. No four or five separate loose straps to insert into a common buckle.
I’m not planning to do any actual track racing with the Coupe, just some light track days.

ALERT: My brand new FFR full kit order supplied Simpson Harnesses (red) are now surplus for me. If anyone wants them cheap to replace your worn out and dirty old harnesses, send me a PM with an offer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113399&d=1567208522

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113750&d=1567638481

EdwardB who’s effectively well over a full year ahead of me in his Gen 3 Coupe build, previously selected, test fit and purchased the Corbeau Evolution X seats while I had already been eying them back in the Fall of 2017. Thank you Paul for verifying they fit and work well. I think were about the same body size so that aspect helps too, as well as having wives that makes it a good idea for us to have comfortable seats in the Coupe.

Thank you also for provide such great mounting instructions, photos of your location templates and seat mounts that can be seen below along with the seat mounts in my car. I took a flyer and trusted those so much that after careful and close examination I directly transferred your mounts and their bolt locations to my car….and with a leap of faith, drilled.

Happily, it all worked out and my seats fit great. The one thing I had to do was slightly bend out the two FFR Coupe floor weld-mounted seat harness attachment tabs. The distance between the tabs was exactly the same 17” width of the seat frame at the down low points where they contacted. I spread each tab 3/8” measured at their tops and now have clearance for seat track movement and gained a full inch in additional rearward seat movement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113400&d=1567208523
The mounting process was first with the floor sheet metal in place and the 4x holes in each seat mount drilled. For both seat mounts, there were three holes into the under seat welded on steel chassis seat pan and a fourth hole into a chassis frame member.

Initial bolt in verification installation of my seats was then with the sheet metal remove, due to it being out of powder coat painting. I was certainly convenient to have the sheet metal removed for this verification fitment.

Size 3/8-16 SS button head bolts were threaded into weld-nuts that were positioned on top of the seat mounts. With all bolts tightened in their weld-nuts I examined the seat mounts and their ability to slide, etc. After removing everything from the car, I re-assembled the weld-nuts to the frame and secured them tight with the button head screws. I then proceeded to drill the holes thru just for the rivet, 2 per Weld-nut and riveted the weld-nuts to the frame with the heads on the underside. I didn’t want any chance for the longish cut off ends to interfere with flat mounting of the seat mounts against the floor.

The seats and seat mounts were then bolted together with the 4x bolts provided with the seats.

I noticed that there were 4 bolts used to mount the seat mount frame and seat slider mechanisms together and the heads of the bolts used were pronounced bumps on the otherwise flat and smooth seat mount frame bottoms. I decided that spacers were needed under the seat mounts to make sure that there was solid end to end metal contact when the seats were secured in the car. I selected some on hand extra washers to use, 0.20” thk. x 1.0” dia. hardened steel washers

Then the seat + mount was positioned into the car, washers positioned and everything bolted in place for the first time. Success! Secure, solid and well positioned.

And, Yes, now it is easier to get in and out of the car.

Of course the seats will come out fairly soon and especially when the sheet metal is permanently installed, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113401&d=1567208524

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113751&d=1567638761

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 16 Sept-4-2019 – 13

After the pedal box and pedals were installed, a straight forward task, next up was the supplied Mustang drive-by-wire accelerator pedal assembly installation, a NOT Very Straight Forward Task.

The supplied Mustang Accel. Pedal assemble is designed and built for the Mustang which has different geometry and structure in the firewall, pedal box and steering shaft area. A “normal” mounting place for the Mustang Accelerator Pedal Assembly would interfere with the steering shaft. Since the steering shaft cannot be relocated or even really modified, the Mustang Accel. Pedal Assy. needs to be both modified and creatively located and secured.

There are a number ways to accomplish all of this, including by using the FFR supplied Lokar Accel Pedal Assembly and FFR’s instructions. Not everyone does that and there are some innovative alternative solutions.

I’ve gone my own unique way and hopefully it works out well.

First off, I’ve long admired exotic “racy” looking pedals often in such cars as Porsche, Ferrari, etc., where the all three pedals pads are of the same design/look and they have that bare metal techno-drilled look.

The supplied Wilwood pedal pads are perfect, but there are only two of them, leaving the accelerator pedal pad out in the cold.

But, many months ago, I found in the FFR Forum, Michael Craven’s accelerator Pedal Pad Mod.

Michael bought two spare Wilwood pedal pads (Wilwood P/N 330-11280) of the same design used on the Gen 3 Coupe’s Wilwood brake and clutch pedals.

His mod. is to saw off a horizontal portion of each pedal pad to remove one of the five rows of decorative drill holes. The two pedal pads are butt joined together when they’re mount onto a modified Mustang digital accelerator pedal, resulting in a more traditional longish accelerator pedal pad. Easy said, more difficult to achieve, but doable.

I like Michael’s mod and have implemented that for my Accel. Pedal

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113388&d=1567208510


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113391&d=1567208513

Next up was how I decided to and did modify the Mustang Accel. Pedal Assembly and mount it into the Pedal Box/Foot box.

After examining the pedal arrangements of a few of my cars and a few others, examining what FFR has presented us in their design recommendation, reading so many installs in the FFR Forums and thinking about it all, I came to a few conclusions and preferences;

To me, I prefer an Accel Pedal/Pad that is fairly close to the alignment of the other two pedals in height, spacing and forward/backward relationships.

The Mustang Accel Pedal Assy. when quick positioned on the FFR built in mounting bracket places the Accel Pedal far to forward in the footbox for my liking. I don’t want to have to lift my right foot several inches to be even with the brake pedal. I’d prefer them to be much more in the same plane.

I would also prefer the top of the Accel. Pedal Pad to be close to or in alignment with the top of the pads of the other two pedals.

Time will tell if this will work out when I drive the car, but here we go.

So I set out to try accomplish these two locating desires PLUS also make sure the top & left side of the Mustang Accel. Pedal Assembly Clear the Steering Shaft, PLUS have enough clearance space on the right to adequately clear the footbox sheet metal panel (both pedal and driver’s foot placed on the pedal pad, PLUS be spaced far enough away from the Brake Pedal to make for proper driving.

Part of the solution is the need to make the Accel Pedal Assembly narrower to fit in the available space between the brake pedal and the engine/transmission firewall on the right. I ended up sawing completely off 2 of the 3 mounting tabs of the Accel Pedal Assembly and cut off part of the mount of the 3rd, the lower mount.

The top 2 mounting pads, totally removed, will be replaced by two new bolt hole locations closer in on the Accel Pedal Assembly.

Be careful to not saw off or remove too much webbing of the Pedal assembly, those are strength and support design points.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113389&d=1567208511

My design includes a 1” thick x 6” long x 2-1/2” wide aluminum spacer block that the cut down Accel Pedal assembly will be mounted onto via 3 bolts.

The use of a 1” thick spacer block effectively positions the Accel Pedal Assy. Towards the driver by that 1” and can position the Accel Pedal Pad closer to in-line with the brake and clutch pedal pads.

The 2-1/2” width and 6” height of the spacer block effectively matches the width and height of the reduced size of the Accel Pedal Assembly.

Below you can see the reduced size and modified shape of the Accel. Pedal Assy. and how it’s mounted onto the Alum. Spacer Block. You can see a new more “tucked in” upper left side bolt location and you can see that the lower left reduced size mounting tab is still in use.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113390&d=1567208512

Below you can see the location of the third mounting bolt tucked into the webbing on the upper right side of the Accel Pedal Assy.

Yes, both of these two upper mounting points are not as far out (less mechanical advantage) as the originally designed Accel Pedal Assy. has them, but I believe it will be secured enough. That plastic housing and webbing should be fairly strong and stiff.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113393&d=1567208518

The precise location and angling of this block and accel. pedal assy onto the FFR chassis welded on mounting bracket has to be determined by the builder.

Care needs to be done to have the accel pedal assy’s top mounted electrical connector clear both the steering shaft above and brake pedal lever to the left, as seen below.

Note in these photos the angled mounting of both the aluminum mounting block and accelerator pedal assembly. This is to have both clear the right side from the engine tunnel firewall and to position the electrical connection at the upper left of the accel. pedal assy to the left of the steering shalf.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113392&d=1567208513

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113752&d=1567639433

[q4stix]

I may have missed this in the build manual or in your thread, but why choose the rear brake setup you have? It looks like the calipers are stock 2015+ IRS but the brackets are to make them smaller diameter which I didn't think was necessary with the 18" wheels. Sorry if this was covered before!

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 17 Sept-4-2019 – 14

Continuing with the Accelerator Pedal Assembly mods and mounting;

Here’s some side views of the mounted Accel. Pedal Assy. (ignore the green tape)

Note that I’ve located the Accel. Pedal Assy. as high as I could in order to also raise up the bottom of the Accel. Pedal Arm and the mounting area for the pad and maintain as long an arm as possible for mechanical advantage during operation of the Accelerator Pedal.

I cut/machined a 45 degree angle at the top mounting surface corner of the Accel. Pedal Assy. plastic in order for it to clear the steering shaft. I also angle cut back the alum. Spacer block, but that might not really have been necessary in the final design.

The modifications to this block are an untold story unto itself, of initial design and then some necessary trial and error fitment cuts, grinding and filing. Knowing now what the final design solution is, I could make a “pretty” final version, but, I’m not in production and sales. For me, this is good enough, should be structurally OK and buried deep in the footbox. I may paint it black though (Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black via spray can).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113753&d=1567639612

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113754&d=1567639642

Below is a view of the back side (actually the front side in overall car orientation) and how I mounted some things.

The Alum. Spacer Block and then the Accel. Pedal Assembly are mounted this way:

My design intent was that all of this could be removed, if necessary, in a finished car without removing any sheet metal.

Three riv-nuts are mounted into the FFR welded on Accel. Pedal bracket. Then three flat head or countersunk-head bolts mount the alum spacer block to the welded on bracket. Note: These three bolts are separate from and must not interfere with the three mounting hole locations of the Accel. Pedal Assy.

The bottom bolt of the three Accel. Pedal Assy. bolts is threaded into a tapped hole in the aluminum block.

The other two/top bolts makes use of reversed riv-nuts mounted in a notched out area at the top of the alum spacer block. These riv-nuts are tightly press fit inserted with glue added since the crush securement process normally used for riv-nuts won’t work completely to secure them or hold them in place when the bolt is removed. Essentially these riv-nuts are like a nut that is located in a recessed hole and glued in place. So far, I can get full tightening of the bolts with these riv-nuts.

You can see one such rivet-nut at the left or near corner. Yes, this is kind of bizarre assembly, but I found it quite difficult to get all of this aligned in such a confined foot box space.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113756&d=1567639819

The remaining design, fabrication and mounting of the Mod. Accel. Pedal Pads is underway.

[Bob Brandle]

q4stix,
I really just ordered from FFR the stock Mustang GT brakes, 4 corners, figuring that this 1,000+ lbs. or lighter car than the Mustang GT would make them more than adequate for my intentions.
I would think that the rear calipers and their mounting would be keyed in on the specific disc disk size and their proper relationship to the calipers and not at all the diameter of the wheel, which being 18" have plenty of room.

Perhaps Wilwood calipers and supplied discs are larger in diameter, but that's probably what one pays for, etc.

One more thing is that I ordered 18" FFR Halibrand Replica wheels in my original Full Kit order and would think that Factory five would ship the correct size "stock" Mustang GT brakes to me. To me they all seem to fit OK.

[q4stix]

Ahh, I looked at the pictures and thought the calipers were ground going over the rotors and it was the 11.65" package they offered. I was thinking it was that so you could fit it in a smaller wheel. I realize the calipers would need to match rotor size and caliper position.

Looking at the Factory Five images, I think it's mostly due to an interference with the coils overs if they're left in the stock Mustang position (bolting the calipers to the two lugs on the knuckles where the brackets now have to mount). Since I'm changing that part on my build I didn't even look to see if it varied from the Mustang GT setup.

[GashF16]

Bob, these are super useful posts and photos. Thanks for taking the time to upload all this.

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 18 Sept-8-2019

Custom Accelerator Pedal Assembly Continued:
This is the Mounting & Spacer Bar for the Accelerator Pedal Assembly.
Dimensionally it is nominally 6” x 2.5” x 1.0”

The bar is secured to the chassis Accel. Pedal Assy. welded on Bracket by three ¼-20 Stainless Steel Hex Flat Head Screws that are screwed into ¼-20 Rivet-Nuts that are affixed into the chassis’ welded on Pedal Assy. Bracket. Blue Loctite is used.

The angled cuts are for clearances but might not be totally necessary as seen. I just didn’t want to go back and fabricate this piece all over again since it is hand sawed, filed and drilled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113982&d=1567997305


The two cut down Wilwood Pedal Pads are secured to the fabricated aluminum mounting plate and it’s tapped holes via 4 each 10-24 Stainless Steel flat head screws (1/2” long and ¼” long). Torx or Hex screws are preferred.

The location of the mounting plate and 2 butt joined pedal pads are designed to have the top edge of the top pedal pad be roughly in line with the tops of the similar brake and clutch pedal pads and with the same mounted orientation angle. The mounting plate is secured to the black plastic Accel. Pedal Arm with three 10-24 Stainless Steel Button Head screws, nuts and blue Loctite

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113983&d=1567997306


The exact location of the three mounting plate holes and their screws were carefully chosen to be located at strategic or advantageous locations inside the web structure of the Accel.
Pedal Leg as seen below.
Washers would have been nice to use, but there simply wasn’t space for them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113984&d=1567997307


By total coincidence, and taken advantage of, the location of these three button head screws placed them directly under the domed area of the pedal pads.
This allowed button head screws to be used instead of countersunk flat head screws.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113985&d=1567997307


The Pedal Mounting Plate was spray painted Eastwood Chassis Extreme Satin Black.
With it mounted to the Accel Pedal Arm, the excess length of the plastic Arm was cut off flush.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113986&d=1567997308


Mounting everything into the car:
1. The Accel. Pedal Assy. Spacer Bar to the chassis mounting bracket
2. The Ford Mustang GT Accelerator Pedal Assembly to the Spacer Bar
3. The Pedal Pad Mounting Plate to the Accelerator Pedal Assy. Arm
4. The top cut down Pedal Pad to the Pedal Pad Mounting Plate
5. The bottom cut down Pedal Pad to the Pedal Pad Mounting Plate

For now, Blue Loctite was Not used to secure the Pedal Pads to the Mounting Plate, but was used for all other screws since this is desired to be a long term installation.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113987&d=1567997308



Checking out the driving feet on the pedals. Spacing looks OK and the feel seems OK.
Still need the floor matting, carpeting and sheet metal panels installed for a better check.
Certainly wide and knobby soled shoes or sneakers are not advised. Whether narrower real Driving or Racing shoes are needed or preferred will have to wait for actual driving.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113988&d=1567997309

I guess that's it for now on the Accelerator Pedal Assembly Installation, until I install the painted sheet metal, start hooking up the wiring, install padding and carpeting and start the engine, as I continue with the marathon.

Bob

[GashF16]

Excellent level of detail, Bob! Thanks. I'm enjoying reading stuff like this while I'm waiting for my marathon to begin. FFR says my coupe will be done 9/21/19. Tick tock...

[David Williamson]

Looks great, like the dash layout. One item to check, put the AC/heater unit in and look at how the ducts fit behind the dash. There is not much room and I ended up cutting holes in the dash end plate to fit the hoses.
David W

[jdavis500]

I think it looks great as well. Another thing to check is your switch layout and do you have enough room behind your lower dash piece assuming this is where you locate them. The Headlight switch, in particular, can be challenging.

[Bob Brandle]

David,
Thanks for the dash complement and also for the heads up regarding the A/C hose plumbing. Yes, there will be a need for 4 main and two additional "defogger" outlets to be fed AC air flow. Though since here in Arizona defogging is seldom a problem only a small amount of air needs to go there.
See my below response to jdavis500 and the composite photo that I'll post explaining a few design ideas I have.

[Bob Brandle]

jdavis500,
Thanks also for the dash complement and switches heads up.
I believe that since I'm planning on mounting the switches & controls on the added angled panel that is outward from the dash and underlying angled transmission tunnel panel, there should be actually additional space in this, "behind the panels" area. I do realize that my switches & controls will be mounted at an angle, not in vertical line with the dash, so while the ideal design location is centered vertically on this panel, I might have to mount the switches & controls slightly higher to make adequate clearances behind them.

Check out the below photos composite that I have put together to help explain things brought up by David Williamson and yourself -


With the switches & controls located further away from the dash (rearward in the chassis), I believe that I can relocate downward and rearward in the chassis an inch or two, much of the wiring and electronics that Edwardb has excellently laid out in his Gen 3 Coupe. With an A/C Plenum design concept by Freds, this should allow me to design and install an A/C Plenum up high on the back of the firewall, where Edwardb has bundled and grouped much of the wiring. Of course, I also have to figure in where the windshield wiper motor and linkages go.

From the A/C Plenum, I would have "compressed" round corrugated A/C hoses connected to the plenum at 3 places that would go straight rearward to 3 of the 4 Audi A/C vents. This would theoretically allow the Dash Panel to be removed and pulled directly rearward a few inches for maintenance or repairs access. And if needed, the hoses could be disconnected from the Audi A/C Vents if the dash needs to be removed further.
the Audi A/C vent to the left of the driver would have routed to it a more conventional A/C hose off the left end of the Plenum. Two small A/C hoses would also be routed from the A/C Plenum to the defogger vents.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=114117&d=1568150246

Bob

[edwardb]

Of course, I also have to figure in where the windshield wiper motor and linkages go...

Interesting to see your ideas here. I went off the reservation a little. You're going a little further. Glad my ideas and pictures have been a resource. My interior pieces are all upholstered now. Hope to have the dash all back together for the last time before the week's out. Will post an update in my build thread.

For the wipers, unless you're doing something different, that should be the least of your worries. The wiper mounts in the body are in front of the firewall and the mechanism fits under there pretty easily. Shouldn't interfere with anything on the cockpit side of the firewall.

[David Williamson]

cool idea, seems like everybody takes new ideas and adds to them resulting in better cara.
David W

[Grkmf3]

Hi Bob,
Your build is looking amazing. I am actually about to purchase another members 95% complete Gen 2 5.0 Type 65 next week but he has yet to register it. I was wondering how you going to go about this when time comes for you and if there is any useful info you can pass along that will help make the process quick and easy?
Also i live in Cave Creek and work in Scottsdale if that helps with a DMV or 3rd party to go title at.

Last question would be since we have the same motor and control pack, do you have or know of a shop that can custom tune it?
Was going to see if Dynocomp or Goodspeed would be recommended or if there is a better place that specializes in builds like ours.

Keep up the good work and not sure where your located but if you ever need a hand feel free to ask.
Dino 847-505-9364

[jwhit]

looks like it will be nice ride ,thanks for sharing post

[Logan]

Curious if you’ll be duplicating Fred’s part list for the AC Plenum or if you’ve found other products from places like Home Depot/Lowe’s or Amazon that you’ll use?

Interested in doing a clean plenum design for the vents as opposed to a bundle of hoses.

[Bob Brandle]

Hi Logan, Sorry, but, No, I didn't go thru with creating a rectangular box channel A/C Plenum system. I started designing one and soon discovered that for my needs, besides the plenum taking a significant amount of space on the rear of the firewall (needed for wiring), the added connection joints coming out of the plenum to the hose then hose to it's end cap/joint then to the dash A/C vent really added up in a very narrow space (firewall to dash). Plus, I wanted some slack in the hosing so that down the road I had the ability of removing the dash panel, pull it a bit into the cockpit and work on wiring or gage attachment issues. The plenum to hose to dash system I was envisioning really didn't allow that. I could have maybe designed 4 hard plastic/metal tubes from the plenum directly rearward to the dash, mating/sealing with foam for instance, but didn't.

What I've ended up with is a (hopefully) carefully thought out can of hose-worms to provide air to the 4 dash vents and 2 defogger vents. It's all built, it fits, but just staged for final assembly into the car later. With two A/C supply vents coming out of the evaporator, I've got one feeding thru a 3" ea. dia. hose then split into two hoses for the two dash A/C vents of the all important driver. The other evaporator outlet provides air to the two small defogger vents and the two passenger A/C dash vents. I've got a Y-joint in this design with two added grafted in small 1"dia hoses for each defogger vent and the reduced size 2" hoses for the passenger dash A/C vents (1-in and 4-out). I'll hang the hoses to the driver area up just underneath the top of the dash so that they clear the wiring and electronics that will be mounted on the transmission cover, along the frame of the chassis and lower half of the firewall. I've got photos. Guess I should publish them or could send a few to you.

Bob

[Logan]

I’m trying to visualize as you’re describing them, but a few pictures would sure help illustrate your point!

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 19 Dec-21-2019

A/C duct hose system and plumbing development

Essentially due to requests, I’ll document some of my A/C duct hose plumbing design & temporary installation.
The final installation won’t be until much later as the final version of the instrument loaded dash and dash top are installed.
Here’s my probably not worthy “Peter Brock-esque napkin design” attempt of documenting the A/C duct system that I’ve fabricated. Never intended to upload this, but now here it is.
The basics of my system are that I have 4 dash A/C outlets (used Audi TT circa 2000-2006) and the 2 defogger outlets at the base of the windshield, which I figure need much less air flow than the dash front A/C outlets. This is particularly so for me here in dry Arizona.
I’ve got the two A/C outlets from the A/C evaporator feeding the (1) driver two air outlets and (2) passenger 2 air outlets plus the two defogger outlets. I figure the driver should get the best airflow.
I bought a third Vintage Air Y joint, two white PVC 90 degree 1” joints and also some 1” ducting for the defoggers. I cut down and joined two Y Joints and mounted the two 1” 90 degree joints into this assembly.
My Gen 3 Coupe will Not have a glove box, so I have open space there for much of this ducting and the double Y joints.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119295&d=1576971080

Here are two photos of this assembly put together. Black RTV or similar rubbery compound joins everything together plus tie-wraps also secure the 3” ducts to the joints, but the RTV covers them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119296&d=1576971092

I also crafted joining methods for the 1” ducting to the defogger vents.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119297&d=1576971102

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119300&d=1576971271

Here are a few views with most everything routed, connected and in its general place behind the dash.
The ends of the main 2-1/2 air ducts are just routed their dash vent holes and are not yet trimmed to their final lengths.
Note how the white 90 degree PVC joints start the routing of the 1” dia. hoses to the defogger vents.
Note, some of the reason for the seemingly slightly excess length of the A/C hoses is that I want some flexible length to be able to pull the dash into the cockpit a few inches upon possible gages troubleshooting in the future.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119301&d=1576971280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119302&d=1576971292

In this last view for now, note that there is a flat bar/bracket above the duct hoses spanning between the dash support bar and the upper firewall. There will also be a second one in front of the driver. These brackets will be used to tie-wrap up, secure & organize the duct hoses to near the top of this behind the dash area and above the wiring & electronics that will be mounted in the lower half of this area. The clear tapes are just temporary to hold some things in place during this fitting and for the photos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119303&d=1576971300

[Nerglhad]

Hello Bob. Any chance you are in the Scottsdale area? I will be attending the Barrett Jackson auction and was wandering if We could meet? I am approximately 80% done with my Gen 3 Coyote coupe and it would be fun to visit and compare notes. I certainly plan to visit the FFR booth at the auction as well. Doug Dahlgren, Nebraska. FFR. SN 0000069

[Bob Brandle]

Hello Bob. Any chance you are in the Scottsdale area? I will be attending the Barrett Jackson auction and was wandering if We could meet? I am approximately 80% done with my Gen 3 Coyote coupe and it would be fun to visit and compare notes. I certainly plan to visit the FFR booth at the auction as well. Doug Dahlgren, Nebraska. FFR. SN 0000069

Doug, Yes I am located in Scottsdale and just 2 miles North of Barrett-Jackson/West World.
Sure, would like to show you my FFR Coupe project and discuss things with you. I’m out of the country, returning tomorrow and will get back to you then.
Bob

[Nerglhad]

That will be great! Thanks and talk later. Not sure the best way to communicate but you can also call or text me at 308-991-8206 if it is better.

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 20 Aug-30-2020 – Engine Installation Part 1

[/SIZE]It’s been a super long time since my last build update and much progress has been accomplished, at least as far as I’m concerned. Enjoy the build, keep it all interesting and just keep making progress are my goals.
There’s too much to list or describe at the moment, but the key recent milestone is the Gen 2 Coyote Engine + Tremec T56 Transmission installation. It all went like clockwork, with precision and success, THANKS to Factory Five’s chassis design and manufacturing and many FFR Forum contributors.

My intent and goal has been that it’s a once and done task, so much has to be in place prior to the install.

Key preparations have included;
Installation of the battery mount just above the pwr. steering rack and all of its cabling laid out and routed thru the firewall to the cut-off switch.
• Brake lines & Tilton 3-compartment reservoir mounted, installed, filled (DOT 3) and bled
• Fuel lines installed along with the with regulator
• Russ Francis chassis harness mostly installed and laid out throughout the engine compartment
• Ford Performance Coyote Harness mostly installed and laid out throughout the engine compartment
• Moroso 63806 Degas Tank location scoped out. More on that tomorrow.
• All sheet metal (and recommend insulation of insulation and carpeting) of both foot boxes should to be fully installed, except if you have removable top pieces they can be off. Absolutely the engine and forward facing sheet metal needs to be installed
• If you have A/C, the evaporator and all pieces within the passenger footbox should be installed thru the bulkhead fittings
• Firewall needs to be installed
• Recommend that entire contents of the driver’s side footbox should be installed. Having the sheet metal off while installing all that goes inside is highly recommended
• Steering shaft needs to be removed from the car
• Before the engine+transmission was installed, I cut off with a cutting wheel approximately 1-1/4” of the bottom of the bell housing, so that the now flat bottom of the bell housing was flush with the bottom of the chassis or slightly above. Basically thru the mid-point of the bottom most two parallel bottom bolt holes. Of course the center located bottom hole was inside the cut off piece. With the engine+trans. installed, the cut point was perfect.
• The starter motor and alternator both need to be removed for ease of engine/trans fitment during installation. The starter motor needs to be installed before fitment of the passenger headers, while the alternator needs to be reinstalled after the driver’s side header is installed.
• Note that I had a drive shaft containment hoop installed before the engine+transmission installation and everything went well and I was able to install the drive shaft with the containment hoop itself installed
• I had not yet mounted the A/C Pump for this engine installation, but I see no reason why it couldn’t be.
• The KYC Power Steering Pump was installed prior to the engine installation (easier to do) but that installation wasn’t necessary
• If one’s in Arizona (Scottsdale here) and it’s summer, it helps (is required) to have A/C in the garage and doors closed. 110-115 Outside and 80-85 inside…..dry heat.

Here’s some photos of the installation with my so helpful and enthusiastic crew, which include my wife Sandra, my daughters Melissa and Andrea and Thomas, Melissa’s boyfriend.

Here’s the 3-car garage-shop with the Type 65 Coupe repositioned to be under the full height clear ceiling and the Coyote+Tremec T56 attached to the 2-Ton Harbor Freight hoist with leveler and ready to be un-cradled from the Factory Five Coyote engine cradle.
Note, I have not used HF jack stands.
Note, Love the epoxy floors

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134488&d=1598837479


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134489&d=1598837491

Open WIDE!! No, I’m not doing this alone, the crew is mostly just taking a break before the big install.
Regarding positioning, sometimes the hoist with engine was moved and sometimes the car on the wheel caddies was moved.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134490&d=1598837500


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134491&d=1598837510


A tie down strap with ratchet was used to pull the rear end of the transmission down to get the most useful angle of the moment during installation.
Slow, steady, carefully and with forethought and it’ll all work out.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134492&d=1598837530


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134493&d=1598837538


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134494&d=1598837549

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 20 Aug-30-2020 – Engine Installation Part 2

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134495&d=1598837557


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134496&d=1598837566


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134497&d=1598837576


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134498&d=1598837592


Coyote installed, bolted in place and back in its usual build location


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134499&d=1598837601


A view of the T-56 transmission positioned and installed, with the shifter flipped and located forward. The FFR transmission mounting plate is hung under the frame weldment plate to provide just enough added spacing to slip in the Tremec shifter plate and fork mechanism to be bolted into place. Note that the Red Tremec shifter plate, fork & handle rod are removed before the engine+transmission are installed into the chassis. See yellow tape covering the access hole in earlier photos. And the new transmission cover plate being fabricated to accommodate the precise location of the T56 transmission shifter. I also made it slightly wider to better accommodate the Rivetnut heads that will be installed in the transmission tunnel side panels for this removable cover.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134503&d=1598839340

[edwardb]

Awesome! Quite a pit crew you have there. :o

[Bob Brandle]

Forum Build Thread Update 21 Aug-31-2020 – Custom Moroso 63806 Degas Tank Mounting

Since even before I even received my FFR Type 65 Kit almost two years ago, I’ve been analyzing the location and mounting of the Moroso 63806 Degas Tank. I’ve spent time checking out what others have done, but not knowing if I could do what I ultimately envisioned until the Coyote engine was actually installed in my car’s chassis. I’ve selected and assembled the related close proximity parts, those being the air induction tube, MAF and air filter parts, performed a bit of customization and now can see how it all fits.

SUCCESS!!!

I envisioned the Moroso degas tank directly centered in the chassis’ engine bay, in the V-shaped chassis tube framework. The tank would be located at a very far forward location, under the frame, as Edwardb has located his tank (and has proven it works, Thank You!), but even further forward and more centered to take advantage of the open space of the angled radiator air exit structure.
This further forward location of the tank also has provided more space for the air induction parts. I’ve used the crate engine kit provided Ford Performance Package wrapped-silicone 90 degree air tube. I think it has a tighter radius than many other similar or metal tubes. Yes, it’s nothing of beauty, maybe even ugly, but does work. In my resulting custom design, the Ford Performance air induction tube with MAF and larger of the two supplied air filters I received, can be positioned directly downward, out of the way and perhaps to a bit cooler air source too.

Here’s how it looks:

Note that the individual radiator/engine coolant flow and degas hoses are not yet installed in these photos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134557&d=1598906385


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134558&d=1598906395

The entire Ford Perf Induction Air Tube, MAF and air filter assembly are freely floating/hanging down in place. There’s nothing pulling it inward toward the engine and away from the degas tank in these photos.
Still TBD is some sort of custom support, bracket, etc. for the air tube, MAF and air filter assembly so that they stay together (Hello early EdwardB 20th Anniv. Roadster experience) and also stay in place not touching the degas tank, etc., since even with the tank cut out, it’s tight down there.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134559&d=1598906406


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134560&d=1598906419

There is over one inch of clearance space between the bottom of the air filter and top of the battery tray upper bracket.
I’m using an Odyssey Extreme P925 battery and the mount is an Artec Industries battery mount specifically for that battery. I’ve had it powder coated Satin Black to match the chassis.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134561&d=1598906429


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134562&d=1598906440


Attachment:

There are 4 attachment bolts (SS button head 10-24) that securely hold the degas tank in place all using Rivetnuts in the chassis tubes.
Two make use of custom aluminum L-brackets that attach to the tank’s integrated bracket strip and then the chassis frame.
A fabricated aluminum U-bracket that “holds the tank” goes under the tank and up the sides and is attached via two bolts into Rivetnuts in the underside of the chassis V-frame tubes.

Yes, the Moroso degas tank has had to undergo some modifications for this custom installation, as follows.

1. I cut (hand saw) two relieve notches in the front facing tank bracket strip. These allow the tank to move forward and further under the chassis frame and right up to the sloping portion of the chassis radiator ducting frame.
2. The hose tube fitting of the tank on the sloped forward surface had to be removed, plugged and relocated on the driver side via an outside welding service. This allows for ease of hose attachment and eliminated the fitting and hose interference with the sloping radiator ducting frame and sheet metal.
3. I decided that downward hanging engine MAF tube and air filter were too close to the bottom rear edge of the degas tank and I didn’t want any contact during engine running or car operation. So I hand cut out (hand sawed) a clearance notch area in the tank and had the same welder weld in boxing plates to seal the degas tank.

Closer look of the tank modifications:

The original tank mounting tab has two notches cut out to clear chassis frame tubes.
The sloped surface hose fitting port has been relocated to the side and its original opening weld patched.
Since this degas tank is nearly totally hollow and open inside with no baffles, I figured that as long as this hose fitting port is at the same level and close to its original position, it should work with no problem.
Note several views of the clearance notch area cut out (hand sawed) at the lower rear tank edge and its welded closure. The notch can only be so big because there’s a small vent tube just inside and then the large drain tube.
Not shown in any of the mounted degas tank photos is a very thin neoprene cushion strip (<1/16” thk) between the top of the tank and the chassis frame that I’ll install for cushioning.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134563&d=1598906449


Comments or Questions?

[David Ferguson]

Excellent pictures and lighting -- you planned well and it shows.

Great job!

[edwardb]

Boy you worked hard to get the tank moved over and higher. Good job! Should work fine there. Intake in that position should be fine. Try to clock the MAF sensor around to the front as much as you can. It's recommended to be in the longest air path possible, e.g at the outside of any curves. Don't know your plans for a custom tune, but wherever it ends up, leave it there as the calibration will be for that location.

What is the hose with the insulation around it? Is that the PCV hose? Haven't seen one wrapped like that. You won't need the connection on the RH side of the 90 degree silicone tube. So it will need to be capped. Funny you mentioned the intake on my Roadster falling apart. Almost forgot about that. :p. Because of that, I've switched over to T-clamps on my Roadster and now the Coupe.

[Bob Brandle]

Thanks Paul. Yeah, you've inspired me to be creative. Then share the wealth.

With the 90 degree silicone induction tube rotated downward, the driver's side engine PVC hose no longer reached the driver's side vac. fitting on the silicone induction tube. So under that foam wrap there's a hose splice and its hose clamps. Kind of clugy looking, but should work.

Yes, I'm planning on moving the MAF Sensor more around towards the front yet still have it clear the hose and its fitting coming out of the degas tank. I don't want the MAF Sensor housing hitting anything solid during engine and car operation.

Like you had done, I'm planning on a Lund Tune very early in the car's running life.

Regarding your " Your won't need the connection on the RH side of the 90 degree silicone tube. So it will need to be capped.", do you mean the 90 degree silicone induction tube's port fitting on the passenger side?
On my Gen 2 Coyote, there's the CMVV hose with quick connect right next to where this fitting sits in my configuration. It's visible in the 1st and 5th photo above. I do believe that there's a vacuum port behind the throttle body and slightly to the right that some other Coyote's use for this same vac. purpose. So I figure I'll use the convenient Passenger side port with the existing hose and cap off that port fitting behind the throttle body.
OR does the Gen 2 Coyote not use this CMVV, despite it being in the FFR Coyote Install instructions Ver Z?

Thanks for your comments and recommendations.

Bob

[edwardb]

With the 90 degree silicone induction tube rotated downward, the driver's side engine PVC hose no longer reached the driver's side vac. fitting on the silicone induction tube. So under that foam wrap there's a hose splice and its hose clamps. Kind of clugy looking, but should work.

Another alternative is just replace the Ford hose completely. I'm not a big fan of those thin wall preformed hoses they use anyway. Unless your routing is exactly like the OE setup, hard to make them work and look decent. You can cut the connectors out and put them in a regular hose cut to whatever length and routing you want. I've done that on both of my Coyote builds FWIW.


Regarding your " Your won't need the connection on the RH side of the 90 degree silicone tube. So it will need to be capped.", do you mean the 90 degree silicone induction tube's port fitting on the passenger side?
On my Gen 2 Coyote, there's the CMVV hose with quick connect right next to where this fitting sits in my configuration. It's visible in the 1st and 5th photo above. I do believe that there's a vacuum port behind the throttle body and slightly to the right that some other Coyote's use for this same vac. purpose. So I figure I'll use the convenient Passenger side port with the existing hose and cap off that port fitting behind the throttle body.
OR does the Gen 2 Coyote not use this CMVV, despite it being in the FFR Coyote Install instructions Ver Z?

This is a subject that's been talked about a lot. Plus unfortunately a lot of misinformation. I did a post several years ago explaining my experience with an early Gen 2. The thread ended up going around the world a few times, so it's pretty hard to follow. But the information is there. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22472-Important-Information-Regarding-2015-2016-Coyote-CMCV-Plumbing. The CliffsNotes version: Early Gen 2 Coyotes had a vent line to the intake. This was eliminated on later Gen 2's and the Gen 3. For those the CMCV vacuum motors vent directly to atmosphere at the back of the engine. I suspect that's what you have. Nothing further is required on those versions for the vent. All Coyotes need vacuum provided to the CMCV vacuum motors. This does not come from the intake tube but rather from a connection by the throttle body. Unfortunately this isn't addressed in the Ford Performance instructions and it's not correct in the Factory Five instructions. If you plumb it to the intake tube you will get CMCV DTC's and the system doesn't function.

[Bob Brandle]

GRADUATION for D8YTONA, aka, Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe

It’s been a few years without specific update posts on my build thread, but I have been working away at the build, especially on custom features and today, with Factory Five, reveal that my Type-65 Coupe, aka, D8YTONA has achieved GRADUATION.

On October-25-2023, D8YTONA passed Arizona MVD Inspection, was Registered and Plated.
On October-28-2023, D8YTONA Graduated with the family present to celebrate.

The Arizona License Plate (only one plate in AZ :D) reads: D8YTONA. I’ve held that AZ personalized plate for 3 years on two other vehicles of mine, because I just had to have it for my Type-65 / Cobra Daytona Coupe.

While I haven’t been making build thread progress postings, I have continued work on the car and have taken hundreds, no, actually, thousands of photos of the build, of both normal progress features, and more importantly, development and progress photos of the many custom features of my Coupe, so that I could reveal some of them in the future, and that future starts now.

I really appreciate Factory Five, first for both appreciating my car and then working directly with me to help reveal my project car to the community on the website and social media sites.
If I can encourage and inspire anyone out there with what I've done, that's great, for there are many FFR car owners, builders and enthusiasts on the Forum and other social media sites that have helped me greatly in numerous areas.
A special shout out to edwardb/Paul Borror for his excellent builds and help to me and so many others.

Introducing D8YTONA, a Custom Reimagined Replimod Factory Five Type-65 / Cobra Daytona Coupe - Reveal PART-1:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192136&d=1699827085

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192137&d=1699827098

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192138&d=1699827111

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192139&d=1699827125

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192140&d=1699827144

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192141&d=1699827158

[Bob-STL]

That's really nice!

I like it alot!

[JimStone]

Wow! Great looking Coupe! You should be very proud.

Enjoy!

[edwardb]

Looks great. Congratulations on finishing it up and thanks for the shout-out. Great to see finished projects that I may have helped with a little. How about some interior and engine photos? Enjoy driving it. I don't get tired of driving ours and it's a hit everywhere it goes. Although looks like the event I attended last Saturday may be the last of the season. :(

[Bob Brandle]

Introducing D8YTONA, a Custom Reimagined Replimod Factory Five Type-65 / Cobra Daytona Coupe - Reveal PART-2:

Another set of photos

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192142&d=1699827172


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192143&d=1699827183

Gen 2 Coyote 5.0 crate engine with likely the only set of real Ford Performance valve covers installed in the world.
I've long loved the old school V* engines with such finned valve covers that have bright machined tops.
I was looking to dress up the coil covers of the Coyote, and as mounted in the Gen 3 coupe, there was seemingly plenty of open space.
Around 2020, Ford Performance came out with 100% real recreations of the valve covers on the 1968 GT500KR, which originally had these valve covers to honor the Cobra Le Mans wins.
Cobra Le Mans for a Daytona Coupe replica, a natural fit.
Of course, on a Coyote these are not functional "Bling" items.
I research if they could fit, decided they could and bought a set.
I had 2 inched cut off the bottoms to reduce the excessive height, designed and fabricated a bridge mounting system and went to work.
I'll later detail in a post or two just how I did this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192144&d=1699827193


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192145&d=1699827204

Total custom dashboard with Mercedes leatherette front covering and dark gray Alcantera dash top and custom fiberglass wrap around edging with instrument binnacle.
Details on how I fabricated this to follow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192146&d=1699827215


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192213&d=1699893103

A special Tribute Plaque that I designed and had Billett Badges fabricate.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192148&d=1699827236

[Bob Brandle]

Introducing D8YTONA, a Custom Reimagined Replimod Factory Five Type-65 / Cobra Daytona Coupe - Reveal PART-3:

NOTE: While I did all of the custom fiberglass work, body prep and painting was outstandingly performed by Jeff Miller Customs.
Yes, Jeff was willing to work with the results of my custom fiberglass work.

View of the nose.
Note that I customized both lower front nose corner bodywork to drop the body shape to look more modern (replimod).
The Coupe now has a flat under surface of the nose all the way across. Future proofing if I add a flat plate splitter.
I'll post the full design and fabrication pross down the line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192149&d=1699827245

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192150&d=1699827256

A long standing replimod design element (dated over a year before I ordered my kit!) was my desire to reshape the side windows (perimeter mostly) to get away from the straight and angular design of the original Daytona Coupes.
Having helped to build three privateer GT race cars back in the 70s, I know the time and design constraints often on such builds, especially back then.
With so many gorgeous curves everywhere else on the car, the side windows deserved curves too....... as long as one wasn't focused on a period correct car.
Here's my implementation. Later, I'll post many design and fabrication photos.

Note that due to my using a video camera inside rear view mirror (AutoVOX V5Pro with the camera mounted in the ducktail spoiler) I was able to use the closer in mounted outside mirrors you see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192151&d=1699827267


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192152&d=1699827280


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192156&d=1699832456

[Alan_C]

Congrats on completion. The car looks great and it looks like you are in the Scottsdale area from the pics.

[Bob Brandle]

Alan,
Thank you for the congrats.
Yes, North Scottsdale. I'll be making the rounds of the various cars & coffees, shows and of course simply cruising.

Bob

[q4stix]

Looks like quality work! The changes are subtle enough to look like they're original but help with the added finishing touches.

What tail lights are those? I might have missed it in the thread but don't remember them mentioned.

[Bob Brandle]

q4stix, Thanks for the compliment.

Yes, exactly my intent, "organic", as if they were production feature custom changes.

The taillights are GRP (Greg Racing Products) aftermarket LED taillights for the Lotus Elise and Exige. Model GRP GT version 2 LED Taillights. They can be bought as single pairs or dual pairs (perfect for the Type-65 Coupe).The Version 2s have been replaced with the Version 3s that are even nicer and of the exact same fit. Not cheap, but fitted my custom design goals.

[rhk118]

Gorgeous Bob! Love it, those rear quarter windows really blend in well and it looks great that way without the scoops. Congrats!

[Bob Brandle]

A custom helmet for my Type-65 Coupe, D8YTONA, for upcoming track days.

Helmet is a G-Force Racing GF-1 Open Face, White.

The first track experience with the Cobra will be Nov-24 at Arizona Motorsports Park

I DIY'd the painting of this helmet myself following typical stripes painting on any Cobra.
Remove the helmet bill. Prep, Sand and tape off, spray paint base primer Gray, spray paint the general Base White area, precisely tape cover the White, Spray Paint the whole helmet the desired primary color, Ford Performance Blue (FM) in this case, like the car. Carefully remove the stripe covering tape and touch up if necessary. Spray Paint the Clear. Remove all tapes and reassemble the helmet bill.

Here's some of my inspiration:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205879&d=1730226249

Here's the finished result.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205873&d=1730224998

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205874&d=1730225011

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205875&d=1730225026

Here's the debut at the Scuderia Southwest Motorsports Gathering (cars & coffee), Scottsdale, AZ:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205876&d=1730225040

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205877&d=1730225052

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205878&d=1730225065

[PNWTim]

Hi Bob. I just read through this entire thread, thank you so much for taking the time and posting many of the details. Your finished product is outstanding. A quick question for you - it looks like you made the small cowl vents functional with hose routing to the footboxes. Are you able to close these off when you have the A/C on? I like the idea of fresh air vents but couldn't tell if you installed a shut off mechanism.

[Bob Brandle]

PNW Tim,
Thanks for viewing my entire build thread and the compliment. The Coupe certainly gets the praises where ever it appears.

Yes to your question, I have installed inline Dickenson Marine 3" Flue Dampers #16-011.

Below some photos taken during the build and after full installation to best show you what I did.

The driver's side flue damper is mounted directly under the coupe body and scoop. A hose to damper connection needs to be installed. That hose then routed to the front of the footbox so that air and possible some dampness are dumped furthest forward and not near the fuse box nor Willwood pedal box.
For the Passenger side, I made use of a convenient triangular opening in the chassis structure and mount the damper vertically thru it. The air is then simply dumped into the foot box next to the installed Vintage Air A/C blower box. This damper is painted black because it's slightly visible in the cabin under the dash.
Not shown, but installed, I have a modified choke cable mechanism that is connected to the damper's open-close lever, one for each side. In reality, I have the flue damper Open the entire cool part of the year, which in Arizona is October thru May and have it closed during the horrendous Arizona Summer and let the A/C do it's job. Operating this manner, I don't really need the choke cables since I can just hand actuate the damper valve twice a year.
Not the I installed stick-on round felt padding to close off the damper valve plate, which itself isn't fully round.
Hope this explains enough.

Bob

Dickenson Marine 3" Flue Damper #16-011

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211127&d=1741113001

Mockup Concepts

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211128&d=1741113001

Driver's Side Installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211129&d=1741113001

Passenger side Mockup Details:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211130&d=1741113001

Passenger's side Installed. Essentially hidden from normal view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211131&d=1741113001

[PNWTim]

Pretty clever solutions and yes, a very thorough response, so thank you. I live in the Northwest so having some fresh air in the spring and fall without heat or ac is appealing to me.

[Bob Brandle]

Happy that it was informative.

One more thing about ventilation. Although most FFR Type-65 Coupes are drafty despite attempts to seal things up, I thought to add actual vents at the rear of the cabin to improve the flow thru of cabin air and hopefully exhaust some hot air under that hatch glass.

Since I used different A/C-Heater dash vents, I had the two FFR supplied vents and mounted them in the cabin's rear panel as seen below. I wasn't sure if that area behind the panel has positive air pressure or neutral to negative, so the closing aspects of these vents works in any case. I mounted them on larger removable oval plates that I have there for access to the taillights, wiring, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211132&d=1741119089

Bob

[JimStone]

Happy that it was informative.

One more thing about ventilation. Although most FFR Type-65 Coupes are drafty despite attempts to seal things up, I thought to add actual vents at the rear of the cabin to improve the flow thru of cabin air and hopefully exhaust some hot air under that hatch glass.

Since I used different A/C-Heater dash vents, I had the two FFR supplied vents and mounted them in the cabin's rear panel as seen below. I wasn't sure if that area behind the panel has positive air pressure or neutral to negative, so the closing aspects of these vents works in any case. I mounted them on larger removable oval plates that I have there for access to the taillights, wiring, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211132&d=1741119089

Bob

Interesting idea. Can you feel a difference with those rear vents open vs closed?

[Bob Brandle]

Regarding airflow entering the front cowl vent scoops and flowing into the footwells, it's difficult to actually sense much airflow, but it's there. As the driver, I can't really position my hand down into the footwell enough to feel much of anything and still drive the car at speed.
The other day I performed a dynamic airflow experiment with thread tuffs taped in front of and around the driver's cowl vent to just check out the airflow patterns at driving speeds.

From all observations during the drive (and video I took) it looks like there's very nice laminar airflow over the hood in that scoops area, at the boundary level. All of the tuffs consistently flowed just as it appears in the below photos. There was essentially No tumbling or swirling of any of the tuffs. They just held their positions and "vibrated".

I'm pleased how it all went and with the results.

Coincidentally or luckily, as the car came to a stop, all of the tuffs held their flow patterns and I was able to take these photos.
While the flow isn't directly rearward, I would expect some angling due to the need for the air to start to divert around the windshield.
It sure looks to me that there's airflow into the scoop.

Bob

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211381&d=1741732469

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211382&d=1741732487