Question about dash panel placement and Russ Thompson turn signal

[shark92651]

I've started to take a look at the Russ Thompson turn signal and the blank dash panel. Due to some changes in the MK4 frame where the steering shaft bearing is attached, Russ now includes a separate bracket that everything is bolted to and I have to drill 3 holes in the frame bracket to get it all mounted. Before I start drilling holes or opening up the hole in the dash, I thought I would get some more eyes on it and ask for opinions.

I see that I am going to have to open up the hole in the dash, but any guidance as to the best place to cut and what shape? Also, when I align the panel on the hoop do I pretty much want to center the piece on the frame or center it around the steering shaft in the hole? I clamped it in the center of the hoop above the trans tunnel and if I align it so that the edge of the panel is flush with the top of the hoop in the middle, it seems the ends are about 1/2" above the hoop. Is this the way it should be placed or is there a better suggestion?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/41119797690_4e3f68a357_c.jpg

This shows the new bracket in about the area where I need to drill and mount it. I am going to place some washers under the front holes so that it will not pull down on the shaft and cause binding.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1785/28061106787_2a0d5826e9_c.jpg

It is not perfectly centered in the hole, but the dash is pretty much centered on the frame. There is a little left/right play available and I could probably scoot the steering shaft over to the left enough to center it in the hole in this position - just need to make sure I can still drill all 3 holes through the bracket.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1790/41119715930_453d5472fd_c.jpg

It's pretty much flush with the hoop in the center

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1823/29057418178_3c8c5fbffd_c.jpg

But about 1/2" above the hoop on each end.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29057646338_43a3c8ca56_c.jpg

This is a shot from the top that shows the steering shaft definitely has a slant towards the PS. Is this normal? I could probably slide it over a bit more towards the DS but that would probably require I drill another hole in the bracket as the rear hole on the DS would be off the bracket.

[Joecobr]

87588

I don't have the RT turn signal but my dash was mounted about 1/8" below the top of the tube at the center. This is where others have placed it as well. As for the ends, you may have noticed that not much is symmetrical on this car so it is best to level the car and level in the dash. I also purchased the FFR dash support and it fits nicely (not shown) with the dash in this position. I also trimmed the rolled ends somewhat to minimize contact / interference. No end attachments required IMO. As far as the left - right position, I centered it over the steering shaft hole by adjusting the steering bearing somewhat. I finalized the dash location by searching this forum as well as field fitting it with the body on.

[Al_C]

Wow - yours looks way different than mine. My frame is three years old (#8650), so I'm not sure about the steering shaft bearing location. Nevertheless, I believe your RT "tube" is installed far too forward. You need to get past the point where the switch attaches to the tube on the outside of the dash.

Here's what mine looks like connected. this is probably 1 1/2 inches of tube outside the dash:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87482&d=1529339107

This next photo shows the tube without the dash in place. My tube bracket bolts onto the angled brace under the 2" frame member by the steering shaft bearing
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85733&d=1526317236

I ended up enlarging the hole in the dash. Also, don't forget to allow for the wire bundle coming out of the switch. You'll need a bump-out of sorts to accommodate that. Hope this helps!

[Gumball]

My car is a Mk3, so I can't speak directly to the way the pillow block for the upper steering shaft bearing is situated, but I agree with Al that the tube for the Russ Thompson turn signal set-up looks to be too far down the shaft. On mine, the tube is pushed into the switch housing and then secured with a set screw... I believe that is the slightly smaller diameter portion that you can see behind the dash on your first picture.

Here's a pic of my dash showing the relation of the switch mechanism housing in relation to the finished dash - if I were to remove the steering wheel and switch housing, there's be about 2" of tube sticking out of the dash.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Dash%20at%20Steering%20Wheel_zps3jgtao4f.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Dash%20at%20Steering%20Wheel_zps3jgtao4f.jpg.html)

[shark92651]

I appreciate everyone's input. I haven't drilled or bolted anything down yet so I can slide the bracket forward to get the tube about 1.5 - 2" past the dash. I ordered one of Mike's RT trim rings and will sort of use that as a template for when I open up the hole for the tube. What about the steering being angled towards the PS a bit. Is that normal? Should I try to slide it towards the DS as much as I can without binding?

[Russ Thompson]

Shark, the pictures the other guys supplied pretty much show where the switch should be as far as the dash goes. The turned end should be beyond the dash. The shaft is at an angle and this is normal. Your dash doesn't appear to be set yet so this WILL effect the mounting tube length, The dash ends need to be bent and tucked behind there mounting brackets before you can do the final fitting. I based the tube length on a local car so this may also need to be changed or like you say the bracket can be moved but the tube and bearing may need more spacers to raise the height because of the shaft angle.

Your lower picture shows the dash spaced away from the hoop tube, when you clamp the dash to the tube you should have the switch tube sticking out .
I'll call and talk to you also.

[shark92651]

Shark, the pictures the other guys supplied pretty much show where the switch should be as far as the dash goes. The turned end should be beyond the dash. The shaft is at an angle and this is normal. Your dash doesn't appear to be set yet so this WILL effect the mounting tube length, The dash ends need to be bent and tucked behind there mounting brackets before you can do the final fitting. I based the tube length on a local car so this may also need to be changed or like you say the bracket can be moved but the tube and bearing may need more spacers to raise the height because of the shaft angle.

Your lower picture shows the dash spaced away from the hoop tube, when you clamp the dash to the tube you should have the switch tube sticking out .
I'll call and talk to you also.

Russ,

I mounted the bracket all the way back as you suggested. I made a dash template out of card stock and opened up the hole so I could mount flush to the hoop. It's probably not exactly the same as the aluminum but probably pretty close. I can see the turned end through the template, but the final dash will be thicker with padding and leather. The turned end may end up flush with the dash when I'm done. Looks like the tube extends about 1 1/8" on the top, maybe 1 1/4" on the bottom. Do you think this will work or do I need a slightly longer tube?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1764/42302502244_e26fd56d0c_c.jpg

[Russ Thompson]

David, that looks OK, the tube end is turned down more then needed and you want the switch close, keeps the steering wheel further away from you. I think you'll be fine.

[shark92651]

David, that looks OK, the tube end is turned down more then needed and you want the switch close, keeps the steering wheel further away from you. I think you'll be fine.

Awesome! Thanks for looking into this for me.