How Concerned Should I be Over These Issues?

[Papa]

As I continue working to get the car assembled and the body fit, I came across a few items that will obviously need to be addressed, but how concerned should I be about them coming through the paint in the future?

This is the passenger side turn signal location. There is a lot of stress on the body at this location with the mounting bracket directly behind it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87540&d=1529455381

This is at the curve at the front of the passenger door recess. This was delivered to me like this and there is a noticeable divot on the back side where the material was laid in far too thin.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87542&d=1529455400

This one is in a similar location on the driver side door recess.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87543&d=1529455407

Finally, what can I do to get a better fit on the splash guards?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87544&d=1529455417

[edwardb]

The fiberglass stuff can all be repaired pretty easily and if done properly shouldn't picture through to your paint. May/may not need a layup or two on the back side. Hopefully whoever does your body and paint is expert enough with fiberglass to know how to do it right. As for "a lot of stress" on that turn signal mounting bracket, I don't think so. Keep in mind they're hanging onto pretty small diameter (and soft IMO) bolts from the light fixtures. Thousands were built without those parts and the front stays just fine. The weight of the nose is mainly on the quick jack tubes, especially with added grommets, and the radiator surround. I didn't use the turn signal mounting brackets on the two Mk4's I've built. They got in the way of the splitters I was using.

For that splash guard, I'm three for three making pretty major changes to that part. Never have fit very well for me either. For starters though, it needs to follow the bend in the F panel. Looks like you have it well inside the bend at the top. Sometimes flattening the bend in the splash guard will help it get better coverage. Also play around with the position. For starters, the tab at the bottom needs to be closer to the edge of the wheel well. That's makes a difference. On my #8674 build, I found it was pushing the body out at the bottom rather than pulling it in slightly like it usually does. I ended up trimming the outside curve back at the bottom, which allowed it to pull in a little and fit better at the top. Had to rivet on new brackets at the bottom since they were lost in the trimming. Probably one of the poorer fitting aluminum parts in the entire Mk4 kit IMO.

[Papa]

The fiberglass stuff can all be repaired pretty easily and if done properly shouldn't picture through to your paint. May/may not need a layup or two on the back side. Hopefully whoever does your body and paint is expert enough with fiberglass to know how to do it right. As for "a lot of stress" on that turn signal mounting bracket, I don't think so. Keep in mind they're hanging onto pretty small diameter (and soft IMO) bolts from the light fixtures. Thousands were built without those parts and the front stays just fine. The weight of the nose is mainly on the quick jack tubes, especially with added grommets, and the radiator surround. I didn't use the turn signal mounting brackets on the two Mk4's I've built. They got in the way of the splitters I was using.

For that splash guard, I'm three for three making pretty major changes to that part. Never have fit very well for me either. For starters though, it needs to follow the bend in the F panel. Looks like you have it well inside the bend at the top. Sometimes flattening the bend in the splash guard will help it get better coverage. Also play around with the position. For starters, the tab at the bottom needs to be closer to the edge of the wheel well. That's makes a difference. On my #8674 build, I found it was pushing the body out at the bottom rather than pulling it in slightly like it usually does. I ended up trimming the outside curve back at the bottom, which allowed it to pull in a little and fit better at the top. Had to rivet on new brackets at the bottom since they were lost in the trimming. Probably one of the poorer fitting aluminum parts in the entire Mk4 kit IMO.

Thanks, Paul. Mr. Jeff Kleiner will be handling the body and paint for me, so that should address the concern about knowing how to make it right. As for the splash guard, are you saying that the bottom should come more forward toward the wheel opening? I'll definitely align it with the f-panel and plan to use nutserts to attach it unless that's a bad idea?

Dave

[edwardb]

Thanks, Paul. Mr. Jeff Kleiner will be handling the body and paint for me, so that should address the concern about knowing how to make it right. As for the splash guard, are you saying that the bottom should come more forward toward the wheel opening? I'll definitely align it with the f-panel and plan to use nutserts to attach it unless that's a bad idea?

Dave

Yea, I think my friend Jeff will know what to do with the fiberglass. :D Probably has an opinion and a lot more experience than me with those running light brackets.

Went out and looked and my front splash guards and yes, moved a little forward toward the wheel opening. You'll find with the bulb seal on the panel, at the bottom it's mainly making contact with the forward facing surface of the fiberglass, if that makes sense. At least that's how mine have turned out. If you try to fit the splash guards inside the body at the bottom, it will push the body out and make the gap around the top too wide for the bulb seal. I use nutserts on both front and rear splash guards and recommend it. Makes them real easy to get on and off. But other guys are happy using clecos at this stage, then riveting them when the body goes on for the last time. Just don't use any adhesive like on other panels. They'll need to come off if you ever have to remove the body in the future.

One other hint about the front splash guards. They set the position for the body at that location which has some impact on the side pipe openings. So if you're fitting your sidepipes and trimming those openings, you'll need the front splash guards fitted and in place first.

[CraigS]

Also get the doors fitted which often requires moving the side of the body. Some builders have made the holes where the body is screwed to the underside of the 2x2 steel piece into slots. This way the body can be moved in and out and the bolts can be installed w/ fender washers. If Jeff is going to do all that fitting for you, either ask him to trim the splash guards or do it yourself after you get the car painted.

[DavidW]

Those aluminum panels....This ended up being an interesting part of my build and really got me back into the build since paint took so long. Make your own panels to fit. Get some poster board from Staples, Office Depot, or Walmart and use as a template to fit good inside those areas where the splash guards go. Then get some .040 aluminum panels and cut out your new splash guards. I got these tools to help cut and shape the panels. You will need to bend them at some point, a small break will work or take it to a metal fab, or HVAC fab shop and get it done. I have a place near me called Metal Supermarket where I got all the aluminum and they did the bends for my radiator panels, they are awesome. Looks like there is one about 40 minutes from you Wheat Ridge, CO. I ended up making the panels around the radiator too. The only panels that I could use from the kit were the back splash guards.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83486&d=1522765049

[j.miller]

Kliener will handle all that. The signal light brackets need to be tweeked to fit so there is no tension in&out side to side. With Finish Line grommets in they should just stabilize the body......not really hold things up or in place...da Bat

[Papa]

Thanks everyone. I'll wait on the splash guards for now.

[Straversi]

I put my body on for a test fit and saw that the front splash panels were going to need some trimming. First thought was to wait until it came back from paint. After playing with them a bit I decided that they were cumbersome and tricky to locate so I decided to trim them as best I could prior to paint. I know I will need to make adjustments after I get the body back and fully fitted, but I’m glad I did the initial trimming prior to paint. I also bought some of the larger 1” bulb seal from McMaster in case I need to fill in some gaps the 3/4” won’t cover.
-Steve

[Avalanche325]

If tightening the mounting points is cracking the fiberglass you have an issue that needs to be corrected before bodywork starts. The body is pretty flexible, but should not be stressed.

Jeff can fix that stuff in his sleep.

I am a fan of nutserts for the splash panels.

[David Hodgkins]

Front splash guards are tricky and here's why. They take a completely different shape under the body depending on the amount of crease it has. That one bend can flatten out during shipping and when you go to install it you'll think it doesn't fit. But if you increase the amount of bend I think you'll find all of a sudden it fits the body great!

Don't start cutting until you are SURE you have to.

IMHO

:)

[Papa]

Front splash guards are tricky and here's why. They take a completely different shape under the body depending on the amount of crease it has. That one bend can flatten out during shipping and when you go to install it you'll think it doesn't fit. But if you increase the amount of bend I think you'll find all of a sudden it fits the body great!

Don't start cutting until you are SURE you have to.

IMHO

:)

Thanks, Dave. Yep - I already paid the $50 fine for trimming one and then finding after I moved things around, it was about an inch too short.

[Papa]

Those aluminum panels....This ended up being an interesting part of my build and really got me back into the build since paint took so long. Make your own panels to fit. Get some poster board from Staples, Office Depot, or Walmart and use as a template to fit good inside those areas where the splash guards go. Then get some .040 aluminum panels and cut out your new splash guards. I got these tools to help cut and shape the panels. You will need to bend them at some point, a small break will work or take it to a metal fab, or HVAC fab shop and get it done. I have a place near me called Metal Supermarket where I got all the aluminum and they did the bends for my radiator panels, they are awesome. Looks like there is one about 40 minutes from you Wheat Ridge, CO. I ended up making the panels around the radiator too. The only panels that I could use from the kit were the back splash guards.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83486&d=1522765049

Thanks for the tip. I'll look those guys up for sure.