Bobs 33 build

[Bgardner]

Hey guys

Received my kit early May and making some slow progress, been too excited to work on it to take time and post some pics. Anyway I will post my progress to date and hopefully keep this part up.

garage waiting for kit87528

Pick up across border in Sumas Washington8752987530

In Canada we need to order some (a lot) of the parts in a Canadian kit to allow us to bring over the border so I also had some of the parts early87531

[Bgardner]

Wanted to powder coat front end parts and powder coater didn't want anything to do with pieces(ball joints) having grease on them. found it easy enough to grind the welds and remove ball joints87532

Started on the back end and all went good8753387534

[Bgardner]

received parts back from powder coating and started on front end, realized I had 2 drivers side lower control arms 87535

Contacted FFR and they sent me 1 for passenger side, I removed ball joint and powder coated myself as this will fit in small oven I have. Happy with results and will now work on completing front end 87536

[Bgardner]

I have pedal box installed now, doing some research on hydraulic slave clutch 87538

anybody with any pics or info would be appreciated

Just put cable parts in for now

[Bgardner]

getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in 87539

seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?

[AJT '33]

getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in 87539

seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?

Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!!
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[Bgardner]

Thanks AJT
I did get the body on temporary and fit to the firewall, I did need to shape passenger side of fire wall to get a good fit in the indentation of the body. All seems to be straight and balanced side to side8771987720

The flange bearing for the steering comes through the firewall but is located against part of the frame, this is preventing the firewall from sitting flat. has anybody come up with a solution, I am probably powder coating firewall and think this bulge will show.87721

[RoadRacer]

The flange bearing for the steering comes through the firewall but is located against part of the frame, this is preventing the firewall from sitting flat. has anybody come up with a solution, I am probably powder coating firewall and think this bulge will show.87721

Both parts of the flange go on outside of the firewall.. nothing will be on inside. Don't worry, I made the same mistake! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24692-Firewall-fitting-and-modifying-flange-bearing&p=281980#post281980

[myjones]

Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!!
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If you do it that way the cowl will not be level, The body mold is not symmetric and the PS of the body needs lifted 1/4 off of the
chassis to make up for that. Set a 4' level centered on the cowl just behind the firewall with blocks under each end to clear the
rounded body shape and check it out. A lot of the 33's when done look wonky from the front because of that issue. You can do
a search about notching the bottom of the firewall and find a few threads on this detail. Once you have the cowl/body level and
the chassis level then you can notch and fit the firewall up against the body with a belt sander etc. That plus plumbing the radiator
properly will hide/prevent the wonky front view on the 33.

Dale

[AJT '33]

If you do it that way the cowl will not be level, The body mold is not symmetric and the PS of the body needs lifted 1/4 off of the
chassis to make up for that. Set a 4' level centered on the cowl just behind the firewall with blocks under each end to clear the
rounded body shape and check it out. A lot of the 33's when done look wonky from the front because of that issue. You can do
a search about notching the bottom of the firewall and find a few threads on this detail. Once you have the cowl/body level and
the chassis level then you can notch and fit the firewall up against the body with a belt sander etc. That plus plumbing the radiator
properly will hide/prevent the wonky front view on the 33.

Dale

Hey Dale, this is why I levelled the frame, then aligned the body to the frame and then made sure the body was nice and level across the top of the cowl otherwise it slopes from the passenger side to the drivers side when looking at it from the front of the car. it also helps to maintain the centerline of the car with the radiator grill. I will see it better in the next few days as I set my hood and under nose lip and align it to the radiator grill as well. Its a game but once all fit, the body work and fairing should go quickly. I would say this has been the hardest part of the car, aligning all the fiberglass components so they look right and are true to each other so you cant visually see that anything is off. Still love doing this even if its challenging as I know this will be my unique build!

[Bgardner]

Both parts of the flange go on outside of the firewall.. nothing will be on inside. Don't worry, I made the same mistake! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24692-Firewall-fitting-and-modifying-flange-bearing&p=281980#post281980

Thanks
Sometimes we just get blinders on.

[Bgardner]

Hey Dale, this is why I levelled the frame, then aligned the body to the frame and then made sure the body was nice and level across the top of the cowl otherwise it slopes from the passenger side to the drivers side when looking at it from the front of the car. it also helps to maintain the centerline of the car with the radiator grill. I will see it better in the next few days as I set my hood and under nose lip and align it to the radiator grill as well. Its a game but once all fit, the body work and fairing should go quickly. I would say this has been the hardest part of the car, aligning all the fiberglass components so they look right and are true to each other so you cant visually see that anything is off. Still love doing this even if its challenging as I know this will be my unique build!

Thanks guys

So from deciphering this if I level the frame and level the cowl I should be good on the front, I will look for 2 symmetrical points on the back end to also measure to or level to.

[Bgardner]

Firewall fitted all good
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[Bgardner]

ran brake lines
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for the front drivers side I did need to replace the 8" line supplied with a longer one all I could get was a 20" so I added a loop and all worked out.

cable clutch system will be removed and replaced with master cylinder for hydraulic clutch slave so lots of room above pedal box

going to temp mount a reservoir so I can test the lines, once engine in and tin on back there will be minimal access to these lines. after engine in I will decide on a reservoir, I have seen a few 3 joined reservoir units.

[Bgardner]

tough time deciding on wheels.

with ever set up being a little different its not as easy as looking up a set size. seems pretty tight to go with a maximum 11" on back as per FFR. with the IRS spindle moves a lot closer to body when car lifted. I am pretty set on 10" with a 4 1/2" backspace.

The 6 piston front caliper also limits style of wheels to get clearance. still waiting on some feedback from US Mags (I did choose a Foose wheel but it would not clear the Wilwood 6 piston caliper)

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I borrowed a friends winter wheels for a mustang to help figure out clearances and also made some wood wheels. Wood wheels really helped getting measurements

[Tampa33Build]

I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.

[AJT '33]

I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.

17" is the smallest rim size recommended by FFR. I ended up with 18" and can see how 17" would have been the tightest. I also have an IRS and front floating fenders. You will need to shim the fenders in the front accordingly. I ended up with 18x10 in the back and 18x9 in the front and the floating fenders just fit over the tire in the front.

[FF33rod]

So the manual states that if you're using fenders the max for the rear is 11 inch width, 6 inch backspace and 315 tread. Ignoring for a moment that a 315 tire is over the max size for an 11 inch wide wheel, what's wrong with going with the 11 in width and 6 inch backspace numbers? Steve

[progmgr1]

It probably depends on which rear end you are using. I have the 2015 IRS, and a 6" backspace would put the inner rim of the wheel into the bodywork for sure, and maybe into the chassis. I am running 305/35-20 tires on 10" wide wheels with a 4" backspace.

You may find this wheel / tire size comparator useful to visualize what's going on:
http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

HTH, Keith

[FF33rod]

If the IRS is so different wonder why they don't have numbers in the appendix for that option.... Something to bug them about at the build class ;)
I hadn't seen that calculator before, good find.

305s on a 10 inch wheel? That's quite a bit larger than what I've seen stated as the max for 10", https://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tyre-size-for-rim-size-width-calculator

[progmgr1]

Looking at the tire specification page for the BFG Comp 2 A/S that I bought, a rim width range of 10-12.5" is shown. https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-g-force-comp-2-a-s/p/29866 Granted, it's at the bottom of the range - but if the tire manufacturer is good with it then so am I. I also like the way it looks.

Also, FWIW, the Build School is not affiliated with Factory Five Racing. That's good, in that they can give you unbiased opinions about kit shortcomings and tips on alternate assembly methods not described in the build manual. Not so good is that they have no direct influence over the build manuals or product designs, although they do have a close working relationship with FFR that does lead to some cross-fertilization of ideas. I highly recommend going. It's well worth the time and expense IMHO.

Keith

[Bgardner]

Nice to see all the comments

with everyone having slightly different setups every little detail changes things

Seeing Keith go with a 10" rim 305 tire and 4" backspace makes me confident that a 10" rim 275 tire and 4 1/2" backspace will work.

with the IRS when car is lifted and suspension hanging the tire will come in closer to inside of wheelwell. As mentioned it would be nice if FFR put out specs for when setup includes IRS

Bob

[Bgardner]

Sorry guys its been a bit, busy summer is now in rear view mirror.

Rims arrived96373

Sizes worked 963749637596376963779637896378

Front has equal clearance for bicycle fenders, from measurement with tape measure backs will sit nicely with outside of fenders and clear inside. Will check when body on how much clearance from inside of wheel well, 10 will work not sure if the 11" would

[Bgardner]

Gas tank installed along with electric fuel pump and the filter

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[Bgardner]

Painted back side of firewall, floor boards and other parts with lizard skin. did 2 coats of sound barrier and 2 coats of heat barrier. found product excellent.

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[Bgardner]

I did go to the build school in August, met some good guys.

instituter did a good smoke show with the build.96382

If someone from the course is on line and has the video of the donuts it would be a good post. I will try and get it from one of the guys.

[Bgardner]

Ended up getting a painter to do the firewall after seeing results from my attempt with a spray bomb, highly recommended to get a professional finish on it unless you have spray equipment at home9638396384

[Bgardner]

received engine from blueprint, 347 stroker carbureted with TKO 600 tranny96389

installed a external slave cylinder for the clutch 9639196392 going to adjust angle on bracket and put some added support.

Needed to remove electric power steering and linkage to get to engine mount nut
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Engine installed9639596396

[CVOBill]

Looking good

[Tampa33Build]

I like the tread pattern of the tires. What brand and size are they?

[Bgardner]

I like the tread pattern of the tires. What brand and size are they?

Tires are BFGoodrich G-Force Comp 2

I used 225/50 17 and 275/40 17

[Bgardner]

Front grill installed, threw hood on to see the look
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With radiator installed I ran the hoses, as I am not installing a heater I assume I can just run a hose from water pump to intake manifold.
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Can anyone confirm this is good, I,ve seen some people loop the 2 contentions from the water pump and not sure if that was right.

[Bgardner]

Catching up

Its been a bit since I posted but hard to take any free time I have and not put it towards the build

Here,s a pic of the future owner101211

[Bgardner]

My son helped install the 3 bowel reservoir
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[Bgardner]

installed hydraulic slave for clutch
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Added a piece of metal for bracket extra support as you can see in last picture

[Bgardner]

Gas tank, filter and electric pump installed

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[Bgardner]

Gas pedal and throttle line
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Will need to do some fiberglass work on transmission tunnel, a lot taken out but with TKO 600 I do have room. With this I am just to say comfortable with room for 3 pedals

[Bgardner]

coolant Overflow and fuel line done101223

[Bgardner]

My grandson checking out how his ride is coming along. Told his mother he can take the 33 when he goes and gets his licence.
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[Bgardner]

Test fit of body
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Checking out fenders and offset, thinking of trimming at blue tape edge
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[Bgardner]

E brake handle installed
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[Bgardner]

tranny fill, Oil fill, coolant and rear end

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[Bgardner]

Wiring start
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For the 302 block the oil pressure sending unit needs an extension so it clears filter

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[Bgardner]

Learning to shift
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[Bgardner]

Missed the exhaust install

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[Bgardner]

Ok ready to roll

I have posted most of my steps for the last couple of months and probably missed some. Just happy to be making the progress I have and need to add that i am totaly enjoying this adventure.
So go carting time has come, i hit a lot of hurdles on this day but did end up getting them resolved.
started with electric fuel pump, i have never worked with one and assumed it should get to pressure and then shut of but the one I have for a carburetor engine does not shut off, apparently Ok but I will put a regulator with shut off down the road, any comments or ideas welcome.
Next was my incorrect wiring of the starter, I have changed a few in the past but always just removed and wired up as I took off. So from wiring diagram i assume i needed to ground this and was wrong, a bit of research cleared this up.
I had taken the distributor out to hook up coolant line fitting and now had this in wrong and had to redo, did have this figured but took time for a greenhorn like me.

All stressed i did get it fired up

https://youtu.be/mm3tB7RabCc

[Bgardner]

I did a few small runs down the street.

Ended up setting timing and adjusting electric choke and idle screw.

Have an exhaust leak but left on vacation so can deal with that once back but should not be a big deal


https://youtu.be/eXyi-Xe9LFw

[Bgardner]

https://youtu.be/2rXGaeiGTBM

[Bgardner]

My son went down the road and actually came back

https://youtu.be/Kxo-6D_UCs8

[FF33rod]

Lookin and soundin great Bob!!!

[AJT '33]

My son went down the road and actually came back

https://youtu.be/Kxo-6D_UCs8

Looks like your youtube account was disabled, may want to check it.

[Bgardner]

Not sure whats up, I can see video from this site

Is there any way to post video without youtube

[FF33rod]

Whatever was wrong it seems to have corrected itself, I see the videos again....

[DS9941]

looking good

[Bgardner]

Body work started

set body in place and measured every way possible. ended up with different size spacers in wheel well to frame area, without this body was hitting door mount.

started with the trunk, curve of body and trunk don't match up so like others I put in some bracing. Pic showing original fit


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[Bgardner]

Body work started

set body in place and measured every way possible. ended up with different size spacers in wheel well to frame area, without this body was hitting door mount.

started with the trunk, curve of body and trunk don't match up so like others I put in some bracing. Pic showing original fit


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[Bgardner]

So I made a template and then cut plywood to fit shape
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I used plywood for stability and then made hardwood inserts where I will be bolting plywood to body
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I used rivnuts to bolt plywood to frame
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You can see the gap in pic below, I pulled the trunk into shape with ratchet straps
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used a caulking adhesive and bolted plywood to trunk
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happy with final fit and shape, trunk also lifts up a lot nicer with a more stable feel.
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[Bgardner]

Next up I will fiberglass these pieces

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[1932]

No pics

[FF33rod]

No pics ??? Can't see Bob's pics? I do...

[1932]

All good

[Bgardner]

So I did fiberglass and onto mounting trunk, unmounted sits perfect where I want it. very tough to line up with hinges and latch.

Ran into trouble with drivers side hinge arm hitting gas tank, I have the FFR stock tank. NO room to move arm location (set mounting points welded) and tank only has 1 place to sit. I grinded the arm and I feel it will have sufficient strength, I will go back later and do the other side to match. For sure need a break from removing trunk lid again. Other unknown problem when trying to get to fit was when coming down trunk lid was hitting flange for weather striping, just grinded some away and was all good will do the entire opening for an even spacing.

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For the latch I needed to get FFR to send me a longer pin (same size as used for front hood). according to parts list and packaging the short one I received is for the trunk and the hood has a longer one so I used it and things worked. Latch is tough to line up and couldn't find anyone small enough to climb in to see what was happening when closing trunk LOL. not sure what others have done but after the fact was thinking maybe setting a live camera up to see would have worked better than the multiple open/close test

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[HVACMAN]

So I did fiberglass and onto mounting trunk, unmounted sits perfect where I want it. very tough to line up with hinges and latch.

Ran into trouble with drivers side hinge arm hitting gas tank, I have the FFR stock tank. NO room to move arm location (set mounting points welded) and tank only has 1 place to sit. I grinded the arm and I feel it will have sufficient strength, I will go back later and do the other side to match. For sure need a break from removing trunk lid again. Other unknown problem when trying to get to fit was when coming down trunk lid was hitting flange for weather striping, just grinded some away and was all good will do the entire opening for an even spacing.

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For the latch I needed to get FFR to send me a longer pin (same size as used for front hood). according to parts list and packaging the short one I received is for the trunk and the hood has a longer one so I used it and things worked. Latch is tough to line up and couldn't find anyone small enough to climb in to see what was happening when closing trunk LOL. not sure what others have done but after the fact was thinking maybe setting a live camera up to see would have worked better than the multiple open/close test

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Don't put the trunk floor in until you finish the trunk lid and latch.

[Bgardner]

Good advice

I think it was the back panel that I struggled to get inside the trunk with body on so I put all the aluminum in with body off. Thinking the access holes would work but struggled with access through them.

[vckiter]

My grandson checking out how his ride is coming along. Told his mother he can take the 33 when he goes and gets his licence.
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What's on the garage wall? Are those 1x4s grooved with some type of hook system? What is that, please? And yea, sweet ride!

[Bgardner]

Slatwall

It comes in 4 * 8 sheets and and just screws to the wall, lots of different hooks available.

There are different brands around, in my trade we did use this product for retail stores to display their products.

Here is a link to a supplier in Canada, some lumber yards cab also get this product.

https://www.uline.ca/Product/Detail/H-4774W/Slatwall/Slatwall-Panel-4-x-8-White-Melamine?pricode=YF687&gadtype=pla&id=H-4774W&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_rfvBRCPARIsANlV66PZ3oKZ2Mo4TYGQo8YP 845EOSkzE63g2yY-yo-WNnN_fx4K_XfH7MUaAiX0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Bgardner]

installed windshield with some support to keep body shape and then later fit hardtop to body


I notched a piece of L-shape aluminum and bent it to fit shape of underside of windshield, epoxied this in place under the windshield using the windshield studs. Then i epoxied a piece of flat stock to the L-shape to hold the piece to fit the curve. Now when I remove the windshield the body remains in the same shape without flexing.
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[Bgardner]

Doors done, faced similar problems as everyone else. Will be interesting when doing the power windows.

Fit hood and engine side panels, For this I kept the grill as far forward as brackets would allow to start and was OK to keep it there.
I did shave off all fiberglass as close as I could to the half round reveal on the engine side panels and was lucky enough not to need to cut these like others have.

Trouble with the striker pin clearing the rad aluminum so needed to file some and make things fit.
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[Bgardner]

Not sure why some of my pics are showing and some are showing as attachments.

Will try and work on it in next day or so.

[Bgardner]

Not sure why some of my pics are showing and some are showing as attachments.

Will try and work on it in next day or so.

Got it figured

[Bgardner]

To fasten the engine side covers to the body I glued and fiber glassed some blocks inside and then bolted these to the firewall. now I will not need to have an exposed fastner when hood open.
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[Bgardner]

I made the engine side covers removable, so i cut panel and fiber glassed blocks on each piece to bolt together when covers in place.
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To keep the front part of the engine side cover in place I fit some notched aluminum blocks to slide onto lip of front grill, Once i slide it in place it gets mounted to the nose cone and also held in place with headlights. As per side engine panel to firewall I will also not have any exposed fasteners here.

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[Bgardner]

Pics of the engine side covers on and off
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Pic of possible vent to go on engine side covers, I have done short little runs up the street and find there is a lot of heat building up in engine compartment real quick. any feedback regarding must have ventilation or not.

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[JOP33]

Like your rear fender cuts!

[Bgardner]

Thanks, not sure how many rocks/pebbles will be thrown but happy with the look of the shape.

it was fun to copy shape to other side, when done I found out everything is not perfectly balanced but without taking measurements no one will know

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[Bgardner]

As per previous pics I do have my hardtop on and bolted in place. I will be having a body shop do all my final fit and finish, for the hardtop I will get them to set the curve to fit the body. some of you guys have done a great job with this on your builds.

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I did cut back the window openings, scribed and trimmed. was surprised and happy to see this little clean up made the car look even better.

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With the hard top I did spin 1 of the rivnuts, very frustrating getting bolt removed. Got lucky but potential problems could cause a lot of damage. Figured out using a clamp to compress the rivnut tool works well and gives a good feel of control.

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[Bgardner]

Made a walnut wood dash for gauges. started with a flat 5/16 thick piece of walnut and cut it shape of dash with 1/2 inch inset. scribed dash to get shape for form to shape walnut too. the dash curves in and out along with different shape on top and bottom.

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Made a steamer that would allow dash to fit then steamed walnut and clamped in form

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[Bgardner]

Made some aluminum fasteners to mount dash. works well with no bolting from back and stays tight, easy to remove and replace.

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I mounted the dash out from fiberglass 1/4 inch and put LED lights on the back to reflect off the fiberglass dash (will be painted same colour as body). needed to source a LED strip light that was able to go around the curved shape.

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[FF33rod]

Very cool Bob, looks fantastic!! You're making full use of your wood working skills.

I gave up using that lame tool for the rivnuts and bought an Astro Pneumatic 1450 - makes the job so much easier...

[JOP33]

Like the backlighting!

[ken33]

nice work

[Bgardner]

Interior work started

I added 1/4" aluminum to the floor to stiffen it up and not have it feel like I'm going to go through the floor when I get in, which you all know is a chore on its own.

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[Bgardner]

I cut into the transmission tunnel to allow for more pedal room.

I did drape some carpet over this area and feel the indent look will not even be noticed once carpet complete.

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[Bgardner]

made some seat riser/mounting brackets out of 3" aluminum L-shape

I did offset bolt holes to hold the 2 pieces together so I could swap them side to side and raise the seat if desired . Like the rest not a lot of head clearance and if you sit too high no way to see a stop light with the small front windshield. A fine balance to get the correct seating position, I do have front to back adjustable seat tracks and set everything with these in the middle position. The true test will be when I can put some miles on.

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[Bgardner]

center console done now

Started with cardboard mock up

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Then made pieces from MDF (fiberboard)

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[Bgardner]

Added some foam for center arm rest and then covered with faux leather.

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[Bgardner]

I installed and Alpine receiver with and external amp. happy with all the options as it has blue tooth, apple car play, front and rear camera inputs. using 4 - 4" speakers all installed in console. planning on installing back up camera in licence plate once I get car registered, not sure if this is allowed although I don't think it will cause much of a problem.

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Needed somewhere for the headlight switch as I did not want it in dash. I installed it just under dash along with highbeam switch and light to prove electric power steering.

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[Bgardner]

console installed

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[Bgardner]

For registration I need to have a front licence plate, has anyone done this.

looking for ideas, I am wanting to make something that is easily removable so I can take it off for shows.

[JimLev]

[QUOTE=Bgardner;409997]
Like the rest not a lot of head clearance and if you sit too high no way to see a stop light with the small front windshield.[QUOTE]

If you cut 1/2 the lip off that the windshield gets glued to, that will give you a better all around viewing angle.
I did it to the front and rear.
The front opening is now 9 1/4".
The rear is 4 1/8" in the middle.
It's not an earth shattering improvement but it helps.

[FF33rod]

Looking fantastic Bob. Great job on the console

[wallace18]

Dash and console look great!:cool:

[Indigo808]

Really nice build. Great use of woods.

Did you end up using the vents on the side panels? What was their source?

[Bgardner]

I haven't installed the vents yet as I have a few other ideas cooking.

the vents from post 73 are a knock off for a ford mustang, I sourced them from Amazon

here is a link to Amazon.com, I did order on Amazon.ca as I am up in Canada

https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Louver-Engine-Cooling-Accessory/dp/B085N3W4ZW/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=engine+hood+air+vents&qid=1591667196&sr=8-5

[Bgardner]

I did no quit

A few of life interruptions slowed down my progress.146913

Recovered from a dirt bike mishap but months of being down has everything else pilling up along with the added need for physio time. Note that I do catch glimpse of a lot of dirt bikes in garages behind the scenes, a lot of similar interest out there.

Car is coming along, I will post a few of the things I did although hard time to member them all if you don't post as you go.

146914

[Bgardner]

Hood pin receivers.

I did change thees out for the billet ones from Tim Whittaker at Kootenai Valley Customs

146915

[Bgardner]

Did my vents on engine side covers, this about the only part of fiberglass work I did as rough fitting all the panels and getting things to line up almost put me over the edge.

146916

146917

[Bgardner]

Everyone needs to self engineer on these cars.

This does take time as I find usually the first idea gets tested and needs to be reworked at least once if not twice, also tough with some of the limitations of not having specialty equipment.

In doors , power windows, inside and outside handles, suicide door pins. Looks a mess but all fits and works.

146918

Used threaded rod to make adjustment on back of trunk lid.

146919

Had problem with throttle cable smoothness so I rigged this up on inside of firewall.

146920

Not sure if I will keep this one or change after paint but with hardtop off I printed some flexible filament for the transition from trim to back waterfall.

146921

[Bgardner]

Did my vents on engine side covers, this about the only part of fiberglass work I did as rough fitting all the panels and getting things to line up almost put me over the edge.

146916

146917

Found this pic also as most of you probably know how this works but for my limited fiberglass experience I seen on forum to take some away when you are making a transition and it worked great.

146922

[Bgardner]

Front plate. can't find a pic of the actual brace I welded up but happy with it and the location. Like I said previous this was attempt 3, Need to make sure I cleared front fender on full turn and also have it stable enough.

146923

So me and Steve (FF33rod) are In B.C. Canada and I will send out a big THANKS to him for his help and advice on getting car registered and insured as even though I started this project prior to him starting his, he has passed me on the build and I am receiving all the benefits of seeing his progress and steps that need to be taken. End of the day it wasn't that bad just a lot of unknowns, with all the steps I found that if you just walk in there with confidence the staff you are dealing with will listen to you as this is a rare thing for most of them also.

I did decide to go with wipers even though it will be rare for my 33 to see rain.

146924

Note from that pic, I did need to take the car in for the 4 wheel alignment so I held the front windshield in with clamps, worked OK and I did put about 75 miles on the car although I came out to garage one morning to see a crack in the windshield. Nice added expense to build.

Happy to have put the miles on the car as a few bugs are getting worked out prior to body and paint. With my rims the valve stem just hit the brake calipers just minimal but after some miles I did get a flat. fixed with low to no profile stems.

146925

I have a leak coming from transmission (TKO 600), its coming from the speedo sensor plug. I have changed the O ring 3 times and still have some leakage. Has anyone else had this problem.

[Bgardner]

Off to body and paint

146926

Like most of you I am having car painted by a body shop (did see a few blogs with guys doing their own body and paint, hats off to them). Big decision to find the correct shop, some of these guys think that getting to talk to them is a privilege. Found a shop with a great guy who is as excited as me about getting the car done. I did need to transport the car 150 miles and this will make it tough to get by offten to see progresss but he will keep me posted as he goes.

[Bgardner]

Off to body and paint

146926

Like most of you I am having car painted by a body shop (did see a few blogs with guys doing their own body and paint, hats off to them). Big decision to find the correct shop, some of these guys think that getting to talk to them is a privilege. Found a shop with a great guy who is as excited as me about getting the car done. I did need to transport the car 150 miles and this will make it tough to get by offten to see progresss but he will keep me posted as he goes.

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146928

A few last pics before I took it away. This has been 3 years for me, life did carry and needed to balance things out during that time. 2 grandkids added, all I can say is I will need to do another car as I will be happy to pass this one down one day and will need to be fair to have one for each of them (by the way I do have 3 grandkids and 2 cars currently)

[FF33rod]

Big update Bob! Looking good, I like the side cover vents.
The help was 2 ways my friend, the info and ideas you helped with were much appreciated. Looking forward to see the progress Ray makes on the body and paint. Hopefully he sends you regular update pics.

Steve

[Bgardner]

Body shop moving along

Shop I am using is a 1 man show and he is into the car as much as I am, full of excitement every time I talk to him. He is also point blank and voices his thoughts re the fiberglass starting point along with the design of the hood latching system (Gen 1), we are working on making some changes to improve this or at least be able to open and close hood without damaging paint.

bead put on fenders and primed.

149501

149502

[Bgardner]

all gaping done and car primed. looks great already.

149503

color applied to interior doors , trunk and hood.

149504

149505

front grill, open top windshield frame and power window trim pieces sent out for chroming, will be a bit of waiting around for this will slow down progress. Was planning on sending down to California as Ray had connections there he has used in the past but laws are changing and apparently tough to get pieces back across the border. Not many options around here for that.

[j33ptj]

Body shop moving along

Shop I am using is a 1 man show and he is into the car as much as I am, full of excitement every time I talk to him. He is also point blank and voices his thoughts re the fiberglass starting point along with the design of the hood latching system (Gen 1), we are working on making some changes to improve this or at least be able to open and close hood without damaging paint.

bead put on fenders and primed.

149501

149502

That looks great!! how did you do it?

thnx
Robert

[e36m3]

I'll second the question on how you put beading on the fenders. Looks really good.

Thanks,

Andy

[Bgardner]

As below I am having a body shop do all body work, he has a lot of experience with fiberglass

He told me he made a profiling tool and then made the bead with Kevlar reinforced duraglass. I have seen pics of some done and showed him, he quoted 8 hours per fender.

[Bgardner]

There is pic of a nice finished 33 by 65 Cobra Dude with beaded fenders under Completed 33 Rods post #22

[j33ptj]

I think those fenders are from McQueen Prototype Design,...

https://www.mpdfiberbodywerx.com/store.html

RJ

[Bgardner]

Some pics of fenders with paint on them now.
149588
149589
149590

[FF33rod]

Looks great Bob. She's going to really pop in that colour!

Steve

[wallace18]

Very nice!:cool:

[Bgardner]

Back from body and Paint

Received car back from Ray late August. Couldn't be happier with choice of painter. As I probably mentioned in an earlier post I went with a small shop that is located a couple hundred miles from me so I have only seen pics of the progress. Ray kept me informed all the way through the project and did have many complaints re the fiberglass although great enthusiasm for the build as he loves the 33 with the concept of the frame and up to date drive train.

Ray delivering the 33

153790

153791153792153793153794

[Bgardner]

Not enough hours in a day as per my usual. Lots going on and I probably wont get any significant time to reassemble for another month or so.

couldn't wait to at least put hard top on.
153795153796

153796

I will need to wait until later October to have front and rear glass installed as the glass guy will only give me a large window of time for him to stop by at his convenience.

[Bgardner]

Doesn't show to well in pics but I have ghosted flames all down the side. Out in the sun they just pop out if you are at the correct angle.

153797

153798

[Bgardner]

Happy with my choice to do the fenders with bead.

153799

153800

[Bgardner]

Its been 3 years for me to get to this point, amazing all the things in life that come up and put brakes on the project. For me I did not want to be pushing to get the car done as I enjoy getting out there and working on it and know that I have the time available. Its fall now and here in B.C. its time for these cars to be off the road and tucked away until spring. I will get it all wrapped up in my leisure and be ready to be out there come spring.

In the pics some might notice the front grill needs to be lined up, Ray left this for me as he ran over estimated hours and I was fully on board with doing this.

153804

153805

153806

[RoadRacer]

Very nice - beautiful color!

[33fromSD]

Awesome, great job.

What year is the cuda on the lift in the garage?

Jim

[Bgardner]

1970 AAR clone

340 with 6pack

153852

[Straversi]

Very cool. Love the fenders and flames.
-Steve

[33fromSD]

1970 AAR clone

340 with 6pack

153852

N-I-C-E!!

I have 70 Challenger so I recognized the e-body on the lift in your garage.

Jim

153863

[Bgardner]

Sweet

Plum crazy is awesome on the e-body

[Bgardner]

Wow Jim

I just looked at you build page post with the mustang and the truck, now I can tell my wife 2 is not enough.

I will also keep busy going forward as my son is doing a 66 Satellite.

153898153899

Stripped down and off to body and paint.

[33fromSD]

Wow Jim

I just looked at you build page post with the mustang and the truck, now I can tell my wife 2 is not enough.

I will also keep busy going forward as my son is doing a 66 Satellite.

153898153899

Stripped down and off to body and paint.

The 66 Satellite looks good...by the way, 2 is never enough, of course I can say that 12 is almost too many (our current count) but it's not me convincing my wife we need more, she does most of the finding and buying, and then is involved with the builds from a "this would be nice if we could do ......" sort of way. :o

Jim

[Bgardner]

Summer has been great with having the car out. Took some fall pics before putting 33 away for the winter174021174022174023174024174025174026.

[Bgardner]

Had a chance to get together with Steve (FF33rod) and attend a local show together.
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Its been great corresponding with Steve during our builds and look forward to many more shows together.

My son also finished up his 66 Satellite and was in the show with us
174032

[Bgardner]

Just thinking of my Summer and thought I should mention when I first got the car out and driving tears almost came to my eyes as I checked the back fenders and rock chip mayhem. Steve actually mentioned this to me and I went to check, finding a dozen small chips on the back fenders. Did the touch ups and chips so micro that it was not a problem with airbrush, but all this with like 50 miles on it. I got PPF put down the side and on the back fenders, very impressed as it is basically unnoticeable. With suggestion from Steve as he was facing same problem and working on mud flaps, I looked into what I could do. I was a little depressed as I did not want to add mud flaps thinking it would destroy the look. With some thought and a few different approaches I came up with flaps on the attached pics. Very happy with the outcome and my worries are put aside as I do not think they take away from the look.
174040174041
FYI I did make 1 up and installed it on the passenger side, I then did a short drive and was shocked to see nothing on passenger side rear fender and drivers side fender dirtier than ever, this proved to me that they are necessary and they do work.
174042174043
Also at that time I drove the car a lot with engine side covers off and was happy to know engine compartment did not get crazy dirty with road mess.