Wilwood Brake Adjuster

[Railroad]

I am readying the engine/drive line for installation. In getting the engine bay side of the drivers foot box ready for installation, I need to punch a hole in the metal for Wilwood's brake bias adjuster.
I have a large, about 2" flanged grommet to run the cable from the foot box to the engine bay and then to under the dash.
I am sure I can manage, but would like to see other's approach to this. Pictures would be great, but just want to see if I am missing something.
thanks,

[sbhunter]

I will be interested to see responses you get. I had to drill the side of the foot well after setting in the coyote. It wasn’t easy. You are ahead of me on that one. I am going to mount my adjuster in the area to the right of the steering wheel in the curve of the dash. I have noticed that the cable does not like tight bends so take that into consideration in location.

[Railroad]

Thanks for the reply. I hope to mount the knob on the dash support that stands between the dash and console, after putting a sheet metal front on it.
I guess the cable will run arcing across the back of the engine into the firewall.
... will probably need to set the engine before going through the firewall,,,hopefully a unibit will access the area.

[Railroad]

Thanks for the reply. I hope to mount the knob on the dash support that stands between the dash and console, after putting a sheet metal front on it.
I guess the cable will run arcing across the back of the engine into the firewall.
... will probably need to set the engine before going through the firewall,,,hopefully a unibit will access the area.

The instructions say, to remove the lock nut on the threaded adjuster, but does not mention putting a jamb nut to hold the cable on the threaded rod.
Did you add this?

[CraigS]

Will there be enough room to lower the engine into position w/ the cable kind of spanning that corner of the engine bay?

[Railroad]

Will there be enough room to lower the engine into position w/ the cable kind of spanning that corner of the engine bay?

I plan on doing preliminary cable installation and then disconnect one or both ends for dropping the engine in. The cable would probably flex enough, but just something else to deal with.

[totem]

I run the adjuster cable inside the footbox. The radius is thight but it works. The knob is behind the steering wheel. See pic.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=73813&d=1505611199

[totem]

otherwise, there is this 90 deg coupler:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/til-72-561

[Railroad]

otherwise, there is this 90 deg coupler:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/til-72-561

Man that thing is expensive, but what is not. The bar has to move fore and aft, so the 90 and cable will also. Good option though.

[totem]

otherwise, there is this 90 deg coupler:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/til-72-561

Here is the correct part: 3/8 not 7/16.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/til-72-560

[edwardb]

Curious how you guys are planning to use your cars. I've had two builds now with the Wilwood pedal box and balance bar setup. Both driven extensively, but for street driving only. Other than the initial setup and a slight tweak after driving, have never touched the adjustment or thought it was necessary. I completely get it for a track car. But just wondering how much effort is appropriate for a non-track build. Just saying.

[totem]

Edwardb,

Even for my track car, it was use mostly for the initial setup.

I guess it’s just another nice-to-have.

[myjones]

I will be interested to see responses you get. I had to drill the side of the foot well after setting in the coyote. It wasn’t easy. You are ahead of me on that one. I am going to mount my adjuster in the area to the right of the steering wheel in the curve of the dash. I have noticed that the cable does not like tight bends so take that into consideration in location.

I know next to nothing about the CR's but I did put a bias knob on my 33. The cable routing on that is pretty tight too so I did it a bit different to
avoid sharp bends. I hooked the bias cable to the drivers side of the balance bar and that let me make a gentle loop back around towards the
trans tunnel.
I plan to use it for the initial balance and likely won't need to change it after that so it will be placed up under the dash once that's done.
IIRC they are not legal on a street driven car in some states so hidden is the best long term location anyway. The point is to think outside
the box to make it work best for you.

HTH
Dale
Hemi33

[GFX2043mtu]

I put my Wilwood adjuster behind the dash to the left of the steering wheel. It’s easy to get to, but out of the way to keep the clean car look. As with others I found there to be little room between the foot box and balance bar. For me I used a Tilton elbow so that I don’t bend the cable. Kinda pricy but very well made and it gave me the room I was looking for. Personally on a street car I wouldn’t use an adjuster, but for a car that is tracked a lot they are nice to have as you can adjust the brakes on the fly when the cars set up changes depending on the track.

[Avalanche325]

I was going to mention the 90 degree adapter, but totem got to it first. I have one and it works fine.

Yes, it is a pricey little item. Just get a 2nd job at McDonalds and you'll have it paid off in less than a year.