View Full Version : Holley HP EFI help needed - BACKFIRE: SUCCESS!
David Hodgkins
05-07-2018, 08:32 PM
Does anyone have experience with this system? The car starts and idles but when RPM's come up it starts backfiring and missing. Mice got into the engine harness. I've inspected the harness engine to computer and repaired chewed sensor wires. The throttle body has 2 electrical connections to it and the wires are unaffected, as far as I can tell.
I need to connect diagnostics to the system, which I've never done. What software and hardware is needed?
Does anyone have an online training reference?
:)
weendoggy
05-07-2018, 08:51 PM
There are no diagnostics for the Holley. Connect a laptop and use the software (free) to view the system.
What type of fuel system? Stacks? TB? Is the timing controlled by the HP? When you connect the laptop check your fuel map and do some data logging to capture the problem, especially if you can replicate it.
It's a good system and should be able to find the problem, even if it's just a tuning issue.
I have quite a bit of experience with this system. I’m Currently running it on my stack injection system. First thing to do is download the software to your laptop. Go to Holley.com support HP efi. You also will need access to the ecu to plug in a usb cable. Once you have the software installed, the help section will have tons of information and wiring diagrams. There are several versions of firmware available. I’m guessing you have V2 or maybe V3. V4 is pretty new. Once you get one installed and connect to the ECU you can view what version is installed and make sure you have the correct one. Next would be to view all the sensors and make sure everything looks correct. If nothing is obvious make a data log as you run it. If you want you can email it to me and I’ll look it over. I’ll be happy to walk you through things over the phone if you want to give me a call once you get the software downloaded. 512 6590706.
Bob Lloyd
weendoggy
05-08-2018, 07:54 AM
Do you have the hand controller that came with the system, and if so, what type? Is it the small 2x3" unit or the 3x5" LCD. If you have the small unit, the latest software (ver. 4) will not work with that and you'll need to use the laptop and upgrade the firmware unless you know what version is on the ECU. You'll know if it's an issue because if you use ver. 4 software and the ECU is less, it'll give you an error message telling you so. If you know the ECU version, d/l the correct software version from www.holley.com Also, don't forget to do a TPS auto reset if you upgrade the software on the ECU. The engine won't start until you do.
Another quick check is to put the ECU in Open Loop. If the engine seems to run fine, it's a sign the O2 sensor is bad. You have to be sure your AF table is in good shape and I'm guessing the car ran fine before. This is kind of a limp in mode so if your AF table is good and the learning has been done, the engine should run pretty good. Then, get a new O2 sensor (some are proprietary from Holley). Be sure to put the ECU in closed loop when done.
weendoggy
05-16-2018, 08:57 AM
Have you found the issue?
David Hodgkins
05-17-2018, 11:10 AM
I'm coming at this from zero experience so please bear with me. :)
I had to do some digging but found the CD that came with the EFI. It is version 2.2.0.3. The ECU has never been updated.
Is there an upgrade path I need to follow or should I just install the software I have?
I'm coming at this from zero experience so please bear with me. :)
I had to do some digging but found the CD that came with the EFI. It is version 2.2.0.3. The ECU has never been updated.
Is there an upgrade path I need to follow or should I just install the software I have?
Install from the CD. It should match the version that's in the ECU. You can update any of it from the Holley site if you later want to. What you have should work and allow you to diagnose your problem.
Bob
David Hodgkins
05-19-2018, 12:20 AM
I don’t have a CD player in my laptop so I downloaded and installed version 2.2.0.4 from Holley. I’ll hook it up to the ECU tomorrow I get my first readings.
:)
weendoggy
05-19-2018, 07:44 AM
I don’t have a CD player in my laptop so I downloaded and installed version 2.2.0.4 from Holley. I’ll hook it up to the ECU tomorrow I get my first readings.
:)
If the ECU is OK, you just load the software on your laptop and connect to the ECU.
Have your laptop plugged into power when doing so if the ECU has to be reflashed with software/firmware. The firmware is in the d/l file. Hopefully the "mouse" problem didn't turn the ECU into a brick. You can use a regular mini-USB cord to connect to the ECU. Once done, the two should talk. If you have to reload the firmware as described from scratch, you will NOT have any tune saved in the ECU. You'll have to start with a saved one (hopefully you did that) or maybe start with a pre-programmed one that's close to your engine specs.
I guess I should ask if you have the Stealth, Terminator or Sniper. The Sniper uses it's own software and is not the same as the HP line. i.e. separate ECU=HP EFI : attached ECU=Sniper
If you need extra help, let me know.
David Hodgkins
05-21-2018, 11:12 AM
I got a chance this weekend to hook up the ECU to my laptop.
First "error" I got was this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86073&d=1526917834
But I was still able to sync to the ECU and download it's settings.
As has been the case during this, the car started right up with no throttle input and idled, seemly ok, but with a little backfire fart right when it lit. Subsequent starts didn't do this.
I then captured this on my gauge screen:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86072&d=1526917646
Fuel Pressure from the harness is not hooked up. Oil pressure currently goes directly to the gauge.
I sent the images to Bob Lloyd (BobL) and we had a conversation about it. He mentioned the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) reading -40 F(!) and he mentioned that the reading would cause all sorts of havoc once the engine was anywhere but off idle. He suggested I change the mapping on the Coolant Temperature enrichment table to 100% across the board. At -40 the mapping was set to 150%.
Now the mapping looks like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86074&d=1526918581
He also suggested the plugs are probably fouled. I'll pull one or more tonight to check.
I'm hoping this will fix the issue, but I need to get 2 sensors into the system, that aren't hooked up yet for some reason. Also, in speaking with both Bob and Mike forte, I'm not sure that the fixed I made for the sensor wiring is good enough. So even if the motor fires and runs correctly now, I'm going to still replace the harness.
I also want to integrate the sensor that is causing the issue, but there doesn't seem to be a port for it. Bob mentioned that the ECU should be driving the fan but I think it is currently being driven by a 2 wire harness sensor? I need to figure out what's going on there to see if the engine harness coolant sensor needs to be used instead? <-- notice the question mark
Thanks Bob for your help this weekend! Hopefully I'm now on a path back to a working roadster (well this one anyway. I haven't ripped out ol' 5369's ECU yet to see what's going on there, but that's a different thread)
:)
David Hodgkins
05-21-2018, 12:54 PM
Researching the Coolant Temperature sensor, I see this on Holley's site:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86078&d=1526925323
I have that 2 wire set up in the car already. I thought one of the 2 unused 3-wires sensors was used for this?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86076&d=1526925097
(the other is grey/orange/black)
Time to break out the schematic...
EDIT Grey wire plug is Oil Pressure, Purple wire plug is Fuel Pressure...
I wonder if I wired the coolant sensor backwards??
phileas_fogg
05-21-2018, 03:03 PM
Hi David,
You need two coolant temperature sensors. One drives your temperature gauge, and the other feeds information to the Sniper system. Because the sensor provides a temperature-dependent resistance, you can't just piggy back off a single sensor.
John
David Hodgkins
05-21-2018, 05:15 PM
Hi David,
You need two coolant temperature sensors. One drives your temperature gauge, and the other feeds information to the Sniper system. Because the sensor provides a temperature-dependent resistance, you can't just piggy back off a single sensor.
John
I have 3. Gauge, CTS, Fan(?)
On the passenger side the black/white wired one is the gauge.
The yellow/black I believe is going into the Ron Francis harness to drive the cooling fan
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86096&d=1526941187
You can see the line repairs on the one on the driver's side. I believe this is the CTS plug (brown wire)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86094&d=1526940657
David Hodgkins
05-21-2018, 05:33 PM
For you EFI gurus, how do you feel about this as the fuel pressure sensor?
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sensors/parts/554-102
:)
RR20AC
05-21-2018, 05:37 PM
That's what I have. Works great
Yes definitely use the Holley sensor. It's a direct plug and play.
For you EFI gurus, how do you feel about this as the fuel pressure sensor?
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sensors/parts/554-102
:)
The Holley wiring color code is brown for the CTS signal and black/white for the sensor ground. So the sensor you spliced the wires on appears to be the CTS. There has to be an open in the harness somewhere. Maybe the splice? I think it would still read ok if the wires were reversed since it is just reading resistance.
Bob
weendoggy
05-22-2018, 09:07 AM
The Holley wiring color code is brown for the CTS signal and black/white for the sensor ground. So the sensor you spliced the wires on appears to be the CTS. There has to be an open in the harness somewhere. Maybe the splice? I think it would still read ok if the wires were reversed since it is just reading resistance.
Bob
NO, it won't still read because you're sending the "sensor signal" directly to the "sensor ground out" of all the other sensors. This will have effect on the other sensors. You MUST fix the wiring first.
FYI, you don't need to run either the fuel or oil senders, the system will just give you the ERR message. It does't effect operation. It is a good idea to install the fuel pressure sensor because you will see what the pressure is if you use a screen (easier) or laptop (must be connected all the time).
David Hodgkins
05-22-2018, 10:58 AM
I pulled a plug before starting last night:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86120&d=1527003986
Fouled?
I also get this when I first attempt to connect to the ecu. What does it mean?:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86121&d=1527004000
After I sync by pulling or pushing the tune from the ecu they all go green.
I also ended up going over all the tables to try and zero out all the cooling parameters. Don't worry, I saved a copy to work with. ;) I got to witness the changes and their effects on the motor but in the end I decided I was wasting my time. I need to fix that sensor. So this AM I'm on the Holley site looking for either plug parts or a new plug if it has at least a 1' lead.
:)
PS I've uploaded the wiring schematic but it's too obnoxious to post. Here's a LINK (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86098&d=1526945706).
David Hodgkins
05-22-2018, 11:31 AM
Grrr. Backordered until next month:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/wiring_shop/connectors/parts/570-215
I'll head down to the local electronics shop and see if they have those pins.
I believe that is a standard GM type plug. You can find them online or at some part stores.
[QUOTE=weendoggy;326326]NO, it won't still read because you're sending the "sensor signal" directly to the "sensor ground out" of all the other sensors. This will have effect on the other sensors. You MUST fix the wiring first.
I respectfully disagree with this. The CTS just reads resistance and is not grounded to the block. When running an engine on the dyno, I have on many occasions inserted a resistor into the connector to fake a temp reading to the ecu. Polarity does not matter.
That plug is seriously fouled. I would replace all of them.
I pulled a plug before starting last night:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86120&d=1527003986
Fouled?
I also get this when I first attempt to connect to the ecu. What does it mean?:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86121&d=1527004000
After I sync by pulling or pushing the tune from the ecu they all go green.
I also ended up going over all the tables to try and zero out all the cooling parameters. Don't worry, I saved a copy to work with. ;) I got to witness the changes and their effects on the motor but in the end I decided I was wasting my time. I need to fix that sensor. So this AM I'm on the Holley site looking for either plug parts or a new plug if it has at least a 1' lead.
:)
PS I've uploaded the wiring schematic but it's too obnoxious to post. Here's a LINK (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86098&d=1526945706).
weendoggy
05-22-2018, 11:59 AM
You can get them here. Make your own, or buy one with pigtails. NOTE: These are a pull-to-seat. Meaning, the wire goes in from the back, connect the terminal and pull the terminal "back" into the plug.
https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/connector-kit-for-gm-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-ect-delphi-metri-pack-150-2
https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/engine-coolant-temperature-ect-sensor-connector-pigtail
You should also UPDATE the firmware.
David Hodgkins
05-22-2018, 12:28 PM
That plug is seriously fouled. I would replace all of them.
I thought so, and picked up a set of platinum Autolites yesterday. Still need to gap them, and I want to fix the sensor before installing them.
Thanks!
:)
David Hodgkins
05-22-2018, 12:30 PM
.../You should also UPDATE the firmware.
I'll do that today, after checking to see if my local supplier has those pins. Thanks for the link!
:)
weendoggy
05-22-2018, 07:04 PM
[QUOTE=weendoggy;326326]NO, it won't still read because you're sending the "sensor signal" directly to the "sensor ground out" of all the other sensors. This will have effect on the other sensors. You MUST fix the wiring first.
I respectfully disagree with this. The CTS just reads resistance and is not grounded to the block. When running an engine on the dyno, I have on many occasions inserted a resistor into the connector to fake a temp reading to the ecu. Polarity does not matter.
I'll agree with you as long as the other sensors aren't connected to the same circuit return. If he did his wire correction before the ECU, it won't be correct.
I think I would hold off on the firmware update until you get it running correctly. It ran before so it should not need the update to run again. Otherwise if it still doesn't run correctly you won't know if the firmware update introduced a problem or it already existed. Once it runs as before definitely update everything.
I'll do that today, after checking to see if my local supplier has those pins. Thanks for the link!
:)
David Hodgkins
05-25-2018, 04:56 PM
How do I remove the pins?
David Hodgkins
05-26-2018, 12:08 AM
Success!
Today I sourced a new plug and spliced it into the harness.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86271&d=1527310688
I used ferrells that stepped from the pigtail 16 gauge wire to the 22 gauge harness wire. I put 2 layers of heat shrink tubing to make sure everything is sealed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86276&d=1527310762
...and I immediately got a proper CTS reading when the software synced!:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86273&d=1527310719
So I fired her up with the fouled plugs still installed. She wants to run!
https://youtu.be/VV3bX4MfDdI
Then I installed new Autolite platinum plugs and fired her again:
https://youtu.be/lXYNwKJljr4
I'm testing her tomorrow and it's looking good!
THANK YOU EVERYONE!
:)
phileas_fogg
05-26-2018, 10:10 AM
Glad you got the issues sorted; congratulations!
John
Good deal. Glad you got it sorted out.
mike forte
05-26-2018, 09:53 PM
Good news David,
Was the pigtail not making a good connection? If so I should report this to Holley.
I hope you have it cured.
David Hodgkins
05-27-2018, 12:22 PM
Not TOTALLY sorted.
I still have a backfire coming from the driver's side. Exhaust gasket?
Itchief
05-27-2018, 09:02 PM
I would check the firing order just to verify that nothing got changed when you replaced the spark plugs
Rick
David Hodgkins
05-28-2018, 07:07 PM
Rick, the wires are marked but I'll double-check. The backfire happens usually at idle or just off. It DOES NOT happen during deceleration.
It happens randomly, between just a few seconds and a minute-plus. Always on the driver's side.
Here are some screenshots for the experts to interpret:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86373&d=1527551857
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86372&d=1527551847
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86374&d=1527551868
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86375&d=1527552606
Itchief
05-28-2018, 09:04 PM
David
If the firing order is correct and looking at your spark plug how long has it been since you replaced your ignition wires
You may have one cylinder that is not firing properly and the unburned fuel is igniting in the exhaust causing the backfire
Try using a multimeter to check the resistance of the ignition wires on the drivers side to see if they are all close to the same resistance if one is a lot higher than the others that may be causing your problem
Good luck
Rick
Glad to see you figured out the data logger. I assume that the backfire occurred during these logs? I don't see anything that jumps out. Does it pop out the exhaust just idling? I would check the timing with a light. You should be able to enable static timing from the menu or at least make sure the light agrees with the display. The distributor could be slightly out of phase.
David Hodgkins
05-29-2018, 10:54 AM
Doesn't the ignition timing look out of whack?
I think I'll do as you suggest Bob and have a look with a light. I hate breaking out the light b/c it's hard to find a 12v post but if I'm careful I should be able to hang the positive light connector off the starter...
:)
Timing shows to be around 25 in the timing table and on the dash display. I can't tell from the data log snapshot. If you want, email me the datalogs you have and I'll study them. I don't normally run near that much timing at idle but if it ran good before then I would be looking elsewhere for a problem. boblloyd51@yahoo.com
David Hodgkins
05-30-2018, 11:25 AM
Timing shows to be around 25 in the timing table and on the dash display. I can't tell from the data log snapshot. If you want, email me the datalogs you have and I'll study them. I don't normally run near that much timing at idle but if it ran good before then I would be looking elsewhere for a problem. boblloyd51@yahoo.com
That's what I'm thinking. Should be around 10 - 11 degrees, right? I didn't get to the shop last night, so no timing light done. :(
I'll send you the log, thanks.
:)
Somewhere in that range. Just have to figure out what works best. You will need to have a gradual ramp up in timing as map and rpm increase or it will be jerky to drive.
That's what I'm thinking. Should be around 10 - 11 degrees, right? I didn't get to the shop last night, so no timing light done. :(
I'll send you the log, thanks.
:)
Itchief
06-05-2018, 08:50 PM
David
Did you resolve your backfire issues
David Hodgkins
06-11-2018, 07:02 PM
David
Did you resolve your backfire issues
No I haven't. I have some log files I need to send to someone to interpret. Checking with Holley...
David Hodgkins
06-11-2018, 07:17 PM
Zipped log files attached. Backfire data should be included since it happened while logging...
Itchief
06-12-2018, 04:48 PM
Did you have the backfire issue before you changed the spark plugs
David Hodgkins
06-12-2018, 04:56 PM
Did you have the backfire issue before you changed the spark plugs
Yes sir.
Itchief
06-12-2018, 06:26 PM
Ok
Just a thought if you have a dual plane intake and one of the injectors is not closing properly and is dumping too much fuel into the intake would that cause the backfire issue
Do the new plugs on that side look wet after running the motor
Good luck
Rick
David Hodgkins
06-12-2018, 06:37 PM
Thanks for the thought Rick!
I'll pull the driver's side plugs after running it for a bit and I'll take a look.
:)
Itchief
06-12-2018, 08:57 PM
The excess fuel may also explain the spark plug fouling
G_Hodgkins
06-14-2018, 10:42 AM
Glad to see you decided to fix this, it's only been like a year! ;)
David Hodgkins
06-14-2018, 11:39 AM
Glad to see you decided to fix this, it's only been like a year! ;)
Hey YOU! Back to work!
consin fraggin friggle frumpllll conis flaglll grrrrrrrrrr.....
Clover
06-14-2018, 11:50 AM
Glad to see you decided to fix this, it's only been like a year! ;)
Ha Ha! You may have left the house but your sarcasm remains. Good sons always needle their fathers.
Clover
06-14-2018, 11:51 AM
Oops double post. Karma I guess.
David Hodgkins
09-26-2018, 06:40 PM
OK as embarrassing as this is, I'm bringing it back to the top.
I've been communicating with Holley and sent them my Global files.
I went and checked to see how the wires are run currently. Here's what I have:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94223&d=1538004904
Does this look correct? To me it looks like the firing order is 1-8-4-2-5-3-6-7! It doesn't look right to me based on another graphic they sent:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94217&d=1537995376
My firing order in the EFI program:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94218&d=1537995401
Holley said this is a CHEVY firing order(1) and sent me a new config that looks like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94224&d=1538005151
OK so I see that this has been changed, but Holley said keep the spark wires the same. Is that right?
In any event I'm excited to make this change and see if it FINALLY fixes my issues!
:)
Geoff H
09-26-2018, 10:51 PM
Hi David. I am new to your challenges so bear with me if I say something you have already tried.
If you have the B Cam I believe you should be running the windsor firing order 1, 3, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 8 - which is what they recommended for you. I don't know your system, but I don't see how you can change the firing order without changing the order of the wires. The program may change the order of when the injectors pulse, but I would think you need to actually change the order of the wires to correct the firing order.
Just my thoughts,
Geoff
weendoggy
09-27-2018, 09:23 AM
It doesn't matter where #1 is on the cap. It depends on HOW you installed the distributor for #1. Just by taking a look at the cap wiring (CCW), I can see the #1 wire looks to be on terminal from the hold down next to wire 8. However, because I can see what's done, it's a guess due to your picture. The engine wouldn't run very well on the 1,8,4... firing order anyway so it may be correct. However (again), if you're running the SEFI Ford system and using the TFI or Dual Sync distributor setup, to correctly get the injectors to fire correctly you MUST put the correct order in the software as Holley has done and what Geoff H said as well. It needs to know! Just because the wire has a number on it doesn't mean it's going to that plug, check them to make sure of the firing order: 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8 for a Ford EFI 5.0.
You should get back to basics and find out how the distributor is installed on #1 and go from there to insure the order is correct and wires routed correct. As I said, it wouldn't run well with the incorrect PHYSICAL wiring order.
David Hodgkins
09-27-2018, 10:43 AM
I made a mistake mapping the wires.
Using these two shots:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94255&d=1538062282
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94256&d=1538062296
... it looks like I mis-identified the wired firing order but it is still incorrect. I get 1-3-5-2-6-7-4-8 tracing the wires and disregarding the wire labeling. What do you see?
I started the car yesterday and it's still not right. I'll change them to 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 and try again.
I'm such an idiot.
Geoff H
09-27-2018, 11:52 AM
Not all David. I could retire early with all the money I have spent trouble shooting only to find a very obvious and free solution right in front of me. That's why I have so many tape measures - one of the most elusive tools in the world I think.
Looking forward to hearing if it makes a difference.
Geoff
TBull
09-27-2018, 12:50 PM
David, don't feel bad, it's happened to us all if you've been around cars very long. That's why the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 in indelibly printed in my head, because of things like this. Real glad you found the issue. On a second note though, how do you like the Holley HP EFI system and the software. This is the setup I've been planning to use on my next car. It supposedly handles boost control, fan control and may other items along with good data logging and ease of use. How would you rate your experience with Holley and their support? I mean the darn mice caused a good portion of this I realize, but from your screen shots I'm very hopeful.
weendoggy
09-27-2018, 01:51 PM
First thing you need to do is find TDC on #1. Provided your timing is good, no need to adjust anything, just make sure #1 is on or near TDC and check the wiring at the cap. Also make sure the rotor is pointing to that terminal. After that, make sure ALL the plug wires go to the correct plug in the firing order. It doesn't matter if the wire has a number and it's on another plug as long as the routing is correct.
Did you do any IEA adjustments in the software? I also see you have a Knock sensor checked, do you have one installed and wired on that engine?
dhuff
09-27-2018, 07:16 PM
Also make sure when you find TDC for#1 that it is the firing stroke and not the exhaust stroke.
David Hodgkins
09-27-2018, 07:41 PM
I'm feeling pretty confident that if I just switch the 5 and 7 wires I'll be good to go.
I just hope I didn't foul the plugs again.
If that fails I'll start over beginning with TDC on #1
:)
frankb
09-28-2018, 09:02 AM
David:
The distributor on a Ford runs counterclockwise...you may need to change more than #'s 3 and 7... according to the way I see it in your photos.
Frank B
David Hodgkins
09-28-2018, 11:06 AM
David:
The distributor on a Ford runs counterclockwise...you may need to change more than #'s 3 and 7... according to the way I see it in your photos.
Frank B
Hi Frank, thanks for chiming in.
I used the pics showing each bank and marked the cylinders on the center shot. Here is what it looks like:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94310&d=1538150460
So for me to get the right firing order (counter-clockwise starting with 1), to get to 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 it looks like I just need to switch 5 and 7...
It makes sense that I was hearing the backfire from the driver's side. I'm a little surprised it ran at all!
I was writing music last night so I didn't get to the shop. I'll drop by this afternoon and give it another shot.
:)
frankb
09-28-2018, 12:24 PM
David:
With that photo, I agree that #'s 5 and 7 are the ones that need changed. I stand corrected!
Frank B
David Hodgkins
09-28-2018, 10:24 PM
I shoulda’ took some video...
SUCCESS!
I didn’t drive it very far, didn’t need to. Started right up, rev’d strong, and pulls nice!
Thanks for your help everyone!
:)
Geoff H
09-28-2018, 10:25 PM
Awesome news - what a relief!
TBull
09-29-2018, 08:18 AM
Great to hear. Glad it worked out for you.
Jazzman
09-29-2018, 03:04 PM
I'm such an idiot.
Oh you have no idea how good it makes many of us feel to know that even as knowledgeable as you are, you will very occasionally make mistakes like the rest of us! :cool: I am so pleased that you were finally able to figure out the problem. Now get out there and drive the wheels off of it!! Enjoy that Saturday beachside sunshine. (Wish we were there!!!)
David Hodgkins
09-29-2018, 04:22 PM
Oh you have no idea how good it makes many of us feel to know that even as knowledgeable as you are, you will very occasionally make mistakes like the rest of us! :cool: I am so pleased that you were finally able to figure out the problem. Now get out there and drive the wheels off of it!! Enjoy that Saturday beachside sunshine. (Wish we were there!!!)
Great to hear. Glad it worked out for you.
Awesome news - what a relief!
Thanks Gents! Wish it was my car, I WOULD drive the wheels off it!
Truth is it's going up for sale right after I get some pics of it next to Tommy Trojan:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=94373&d=1538253754
I had plans to drive it to USC football games and such... but my brother can't really drive it anymore...
Since I finished it, it only has a little over 1K on it. It needs to be DRIVEN!
So I'll get some glamour shots of it, for posterity.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49193&d=1451252643
:)