Install Engine With or Without Trans Attached?

[Driver_WT]

I just removed the engine from my Mk 3.1 Roadster to do some upgrades (new heads and cams). The engine is a 4.6 SOHC from a 2002 Mustang. It was a real bear to get that wide engine out of the narrow engine bay, and having the trans attached to the engine just seemed to make it more challenging. I am looking for some thoughts on putting the engine and trans back in. Would it be easier if I set the transmission in place first and then lowered the engine into the engine bay and connected it to the trans. Or should I attach the transmission to the engine on garage floor and slide it in as one unit (the way it came out)?

Thanks.

Wade

[Murd]

Definitely together as one unit.

[David Hodgkins]

I've had my transmission out while the engine remained in the chassis (one of the benefits of a lift) but I've never pulled the engine without pulling the trans too...

Helpers are good! Raising the rear tends to help too.

Just my experience...


:)

[GoDadGo]

Lining up the transmission in the car just seems extremely tough to me.
My engine is small, but the transmission is a pig so we have the exact opposite scenario.
Lifting the rear of the car up about 10-12" makes the drive-line pull and installation a lot easier.

Good Luck!

1st Installation
https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

The Dreaded Pull
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

2nd Installation / New Block (Hope I'm Done)
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

[scottiec]

Together.

[Bren]

I've heard that together is the preferred method, but I didn't have that choice. The engine lift that I had wasn't rated for the whole weight of the engine and transmission with the arm all the way extended. Without the lift arm fully extended, we didn't have the reach to get the engine all the way into the engine bay.

And I can echo GoDadGo's comment about lining up the drive train with the tranny and engine inside the chassis: it's the things nightmares are made of.

[cv2065]

I’ll vote together as well. Just get the rear end up to help clear the tail shaft. Race Ramps work great. I used a rolling trans jack to roll the tail into postion and then jacked it up. Defintiely beats wrestling that beast on your back and trying to hit the hole.

[Driver_WT]

Thanks for the input. Looks like it will be going in the same way it came out.

[David Williamson]

if the body is on you take a front wheel off and lift from the side, puts the hoist in closer.
David W

[frankb]

I have done it both ways, (with the tranny attached and with the tranny and bell housing left in the car) on several different makes and models including other "kit" cars, and I prefer pulling the engine only, leaving the tranny and bell housing in the car. This reduces the load on the lift, the size and bulk of the load, and even reduces the chance of dinging up the fenders and cowl. If you are running a hydraulic clutch, leaving the tranny and bell housing allows you to not disassemble the hydraulics and bleed the system of the air introduced during disassembly, although the system should be bled after engine reinstallation. I have done it both alone and with help and even with help, I prefer to leave the tranny in the car. Alignment of the input shaft with the clutch is no less troublesome with the engine on a stand of some sort, although doing it from under the car can be "fun". For what it is worth...

Frank B

[CraigS]

I pull the engine by itself because it is much easier for me. It is easier going back in also but there may be one difference for you- I think your engine is a lot wider than my 351 so, where I can easily look down the back of the engine to get it parallel w/ the bell housing, it may not be quite so visible for you. There are two advantages to engine only. 1- it's short and lighter so it goes back in almost a straight drop and then backward 3 inches to mate to the trans. 2- because it only needs to move 3 inches to the rear it's reasonably easy to bring your hoist in from the side, and have the front of the car up on a floor jack to clear the hoist legs, and that makes it easy to roll the car forward that 3 inches.

[GoDadGo]

Interesting Perspectives Regarding This Process; All Of Them!

[walt mckenna]

I have a DOHC engine which is also very wide. My vote is together with one person in the cockpit guiding the tail shaft and the other operating the engine lift. This combination works very smoothly plus you have the added convenience of assembling all those pieces outside the car.

[Driver_WT]

Thanks for all of the perspectives and advice. Just a bit more info from me. I have the car wheels on dollies, so the car is raised about 3 inches and can be easily moved in any direction. I am using a chain hoist that is attached to an i-beam in the ceiling of my garage, so we roll the car forward or back on the dollies as the engine is raised or lowered. I think we will try it with the trans in the car first. No big deal if that does not work very well, as we just have to pull the trans out and connect to the engine to try that way.

[GoDadGo]

If you can get the back of the car up 8-10" higher than the front, then I'm sure it will be a lot easier.
We actually put the drive up ramps on our dollies for the rear wheels and found it worked pretty well.
My only concern is how fat that engine is, about 29" if I'm not mistaken, so your wiggle room is rough compared to mine.
Good Luck & Watch Your Pinkies Please!

NOTE: I cut one off last year working on my brother's car so be careful since room under your hood is limited.