E Brake Modification

[eamici]

In scanning these build threads I see a common complaint to the FFR e brake & cables. As a newbie, could someone explain the problem and point me in the right direction please?

[scottiec]

It depends on the rear brake set up. Basically the routing for the cables can make it for a high effort pull. What rear brakes are you using

[Dave Howard]

The geometry of the FFR set up has the brake cables/s going under the 4" main rail crosser at the rear of the frame. The brake cable become the lowest point of the car. Not so good. There's an easy well documented fix in edwardB build thread.

[sbhunter]

The other “complaint” is the location of the handle. I could not reach the parking brake with my seat belt on in its stock location. To me that was a safety issue. I moved it to the top of the tunnel.

[eamici]

Thanks to all. Scottiec, I have the upgraded Willwood rear brake package

[Kpt112]

I am using the base brake kit that comes with the FFR Roadster. I purchased a lokar e-brake handle which I mounted on the top of the tunnel. Basically the e-brake sucks. I cannot seem to get enough of a pull to make the e-brakes to work properly to stop the car. There are a ton of mods guys have done to make this e-brake mod. Just be prepared for pain if you go down this road. Here is a cool mod of what I am talking about.

Good Luck

83871

[sbhunter]

I have the Wilwood 13” rears. I used the Lokar handle. 3 clicks and locked tight. It must depend on the parking brake style on the rotor. I really liked the Allen lock setup on the Lokar shown in Kpt112’s pic. I cut the cables to length and didn’t have to worry about putting on new swages.