Stainless Hardware?

[cv2065]

Anyone know if all of the hardware provided with the kit is stainless?

[Papa]

Most is not. I've made McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/#) one of my most visited retailers since starting my build. Everything from nut and bolts to grommets and rivets or just about any specialty hardware item you could ever imagine.

[cv2065]

Thanks Papa...I’ll be doing the same thing. I’m assuming that the instructions have the complete list of hardware so that a bulk order can be made?

[Fabb]

Your inventory sheet includes the full list of hardware in printed form. It can be quite a pain to go thru it all and compile the list because it is listed in Box Order, not grouped by type of HW, etc... It makes sense for assembly.

I wound up scanning/OCR/Excel all my inventory so I could confirm my inventory (missing parts/off-spec) and order replacement/additional stuff from McMasters (and others). I am in the middle of my order from MM.

-B

[Fixit]

Be aware that stainless fasteners do not have the tensile strength of carbon steel bolts, and shouldn't be used on critical applications (suspension, seat belts, etc.).

[cv2065]

Be aware that stainless fasteners do not have the tensile strength of carbon steel bolts, and shouldn't be used on critical applications (suspension, seat belts, etc.).

Agreed. I believe stainless is Grade 5

[edwardb]

Agreed completely that SS hardware is not suitable as an across the board replacement for the kit hardware. Especially for suspension and other critical locations. It would be challenging anyway to find some of what's provided, e.g. large diameter, long length, flange heads, etc. Both SAE and metric. Where you do use SS, make sure to also add anti-seize.

Agree as well McMaster is a gold mine. I use them extensively. Usually on my porch the next day.


Agreed. I believe stainless is Grade 5

Not typically. Standard hardware store SS is not as strong as grade 5 steel. High strength SS can be in the same range as grade 5, or a little more. But you'll need to go elsewhere. Like McMaster. Not cheap either.

[frankb]

I used (and still do) Albany County Fasteners www.albanycountyfasteners.com ... Any nut, bolt, or screw you could ever need and a bit cheaper than McM-C.

[cv2065]

Agreed completely that SS hardware is not suitable as an across the board replacement for the kit hardware. Especially for suspension and other critical locations. It would be challenging anyway to find some of what's provided, e.g. large diameter, long length, flange heads, etc. Both SAE and metric. Where you do use SS, make sure to also add anti-seize.

Agree as well McMaster is a gold mine. I use them extensively. Usually on my porch the next day.



Not typically. Standard hardware store SS is not as strong as grade 5 steel. High strength SS can be in the same range as grade 5, or a little more. But you'll need to go elsewhere. Like McMaster. Not cheap either.

Thanks for the clarification!

[Fixit]

2nd on "Anti-Seize" for any stainless bolt that's going to get any torque on it. SS has this incredibly aggravating property of galling/welding itself together when torqued dry. (You won't need Loc-tite... you'll need a torch).
A word of warning about that wonderfully diabolical silver goo in the dauber can...
83807

It will get everywhere and on everything!!

[Dave Howard]

I used a fair amount of stainless fasteners on my build, but did not consider changing any critical (high strength) fasteners. Wasn't about to "re-engineer" what FFR has already proven was right. I did mount things like the brake fluid reservoirs and the cooling O/F tank with stainless. Also swopped out those black cap screws that came with the kit to mount the Wilwood foot pedal assembly, and the fuel tank strap bolts. Last thing was the differential cover bolts. Again, swopped out for stainless cap screws.

[Boydster]

Also swopped out those black cap screws that came with the kit to mount the Wilwood foot pedal assembly, and the fuel tank strap bolts.

Excellent choice. My black oxide cap bolts are already rusting and I've only got 2 miles on the car.

[Chris @ Forma]

Most fasteners that you need are available in zinc plated for corrosion protection. Even high strength fasteners are available with zinc plating. These are sometimes called by their more technically accurate description as zinc dichromate. Zinc dichromate is available in clear (silver colored) or yellow zinc. Both protect against corrosion very well accept in very corrosive environments. Our cars should never see these. As for s/s, 18-8 is the most commonly used for fasteners though 316 s/s is also available. 316 s/s is more corrosion resistant and higher strength.

Four our builds, we replace any un-plated fasteners with new Zinc plated fasteners. As for never-seize, I also recommend on any highly stressed fasteners, particularly s/s.

Chris

[Dave Howard]

Most fasteners that you need are available in zinc plated for corrosion protection. Even high strength fasteners are available with zinc plating. These are sometimes called by their more technically accurate description as zinc dichromate. Zinc dichromate is available in clear (silver colored) or yellow zinc. Both protect against corrosion very well accept in very corrosive environments. Our cars should never see these. As for s/s, 18-8 is the most commonly used for fasteners though 316 s/s is also available. 316 s/s is more corrosion resistant and higher strength.

Four our builds, we replace any un-plated fasteners with new Zinc plated fasteners. As for never-seize, I also recommend on any highly stressed fasteners, particularly s/s.

Chris


Typically the SS junk from China will be 304 (18-8). It comes in standard strength grades and will be corrosion resistant to normal wet weather road conditions. I typically have used 316 or 317 (availability) which is over the top for corrosion resistance on these cars. The titanium and Hastelloy C fasteners stayed in the boxes. At the end of the day, who cares so long as the fasteners look pretty and they keep the stuff together.