Turn signal system update

[Russ Thompson]

Hi everyone. I want to give you all an update on The VW switches I use in my turn signal system, "there back!" My regular supplier has finally gotten some back in stock and I got 50 and then got another 50 so I can fill my back orders. I have been working like crazy to get everyone's orders filled and I'm about 2/3 rds done. If you have a unit on order and haven't yet heard from me you will soon. Through all of this I've had to redesign the turn signal mounting system because ffr changed the steering shaft bearing bracket on both the gen 3 coupe and the mk4. I have been driving down to a local customers place (thanks Kevin) to do the proto type brackets and I think I have them figured out, I have sent a couple out and the feed back sounds good so far ( Thanks Jim L) During all of this I've been working with guys on new patterns for the gen 3 coupe pontoon and door sills which I'll have done very soon.

The down side to all of this is after 15 years I'll have to raise my price for the system because of the new brackets needed to mount the system. I'll have to have two brackets laser cut out of house now that I'm retired and don't have access to my former shop machines. The new price for the complete turn signal system will go up from $245 to $260 starting May 1st, I will honor the old price until then .

I want to thank everyone for their patience and understanding through all of this. 2017 was a nightmare, glad it's 2108, at least until the next shoe drops! :-)

[Papa]

Russ,

I was very interested in your setup until I decided on the FFR padded dash and didn't think your setup would work with it without enlarging the shaft opening. Have you looked at how your setup works or doesn't with the padded dash?

Thanks,
Dave

[edwardb]

Russ -- Received my Gen 3 Coupe setup today. Thanks! Did a quick sanity check and looks like it's going to fit just fine. I'll let you know when I spend a little more time checking it out in detail. Good to hear you're working on updated pontoon and door sills. Was going to ask about those. I'll be watching for an update.

Dave -- I don't think it would work without the larger tube through the dash. Plus just looks more finished. I don't see why you couldn't trim your plastic dash to fit the tube and then use Mike's trim ring to clean up the opening. I've used that combination several times. Looks great. http://www.replicaparts.com/russ%20thompson%20turn%20signal%20page.htm. This is the dash only with the trim ring from #8674.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/th_IMG_3821_zpsp9ph8aaa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3821_zpsp9ph8aaa.jpg.html)

Paul B.

[Papa]

Thanks Paul. I'd considered it, but was concerned about how the dash is formed (molded) around the shaft opening. I may still go with it as just my couple of short go-cart sessions I found myself reaching for the turn signal lever that isn't there.

Dave

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul. I'd considered it, but was concerned about how the dash is formed (molded) around the shaft opening. I may still go with it as just my couple of short go-cart sessions I found myself reaching for the turn signal lever that isn't there.

Dave

I hear you. I've seen that dash and agree it's not 100% sure what would happen if the edge around that hole were cut. At a minimum you could bond the trim ring to the covering before cutting the hole large. That plus the trim ring mounting screws would likely be fine. An even more robust solution might be to make a backing ring for the back of the dash (same ID and OD as the trim ring) and bolt in place through the trim ring mounting screws. That would pinch the covering and backing material and be certain to keep everything in place.

[JoeAIII]

Got mine this week, Russ. I have the "old style" but wanted to say that the quality is top notch. Even better than I expected from the pictures I had seen.

Thank you!

[Jdav]

I hear you. I've seen that dash and agree it's not 100% sure what would happen if the edge around that hole were cut. At a minimum you could bond the trim ring to the covering before cutting the hole large. That plus the trim ring mounting screws would likely be fine. An even more robust solution might be to make a backing ring for the back of the dash (same ID and OD as the trim ring) and bolt in place through the trim ring mounting screws. That would pinch the covering and backing material and be certain to keep everything in place.

I did Russ turn signal with the FFR molded dash. You do have to enlarge the opening, bu it’s really easy to do so. I used a blade knife to score the plastic on the bac side and then it basically snapped off - the vinyl peels away from the part I cut off so I just folded that over my new cut edge. I did add Mike Everson’s trim ring.

[JRL16]

The Russ Thompson system needs the hole enlarged in the padded dash but that doesn't weaken the dash with the Replicaparts steering wheel bezel installed. I didn't screw the bezel screws into the dash but through it and into some metal speed nuts ( think that's what they are called ). It worked out nice and just barely covers the hole top to bottom as the hole is oval shaped.

[stack]

It works. I did it on mine. i opened up the hole to fit the turn signal, then used mike eversons bezel. FFR dash is plastic so it was real easy to make the hole larger

stack




Russ,

I was very interested in your setup until I decided on the FFR padded dash and didn't think your setup would work with it without enlarging the shaft opening. Have you looked at how your setup works or doesn't with the padded dash?

Thanks,
Dave