John Ibele
03-26-2018, 09:45 PM
After buttoning up the rear suspension, I've turned to the pedal box, where the mockup work went reasonably well over the weekend until hitting a snag or two, typical of a first-time builder.
After noting that the clutch cable quadrant rubbed against the edge of the steel bracket (like everyone else's), and that the spacer shaft was a bit too short to allow the retainer ring to go in neatly (like everyone else's), and that I had actually cut the press-in stud too short by the thickness of the steel bracket (don't ask...), I bumped up against something that needed the advice of folks on the forum.
I finally turfed up information on the offset clutch quadrant design, and noted the difference between my older complete kit instructions and the new pedal box instructions, which show the new quadrant. So now I know the problems that were caused by the offset design, and which motivated the new design which has the quadrant in line with the clutch pedal.
I should clarify that at the time I got my kit in mid-2012, they were using the beefier forged Wilwood pedals, so that's good. Also good is the fact that I have not put the front aluminum panel in place yet on the DS footbox, so the area is wide open for mods if that's what I end up doing.
My options are to use the existing offset quadrant that came with my kit (not too keen on that option), use the newer design, or go with a hydraulic clutch option. I am NOT intending to introduce the well-worn "would you choose hydraulic or cable and why" discussion, I know both can work and work well. My plans were to use the cable because that's what came with my kit, and I still intend to do that if the mods are reasonable.
I ordered the parts to do the conversion to the in-line quadrant from Mike, and they're on the way. So obviously he feels the conversion can be done. At the same time, I got my answer back from FFR that "The new quadrant system will not work for your kit, as the firewall is different for the new design. The system you have with the updated actuator is what would need to be used, other than a aftermarket hydro clutch system", which is not a surprising answer, and technically true, I would guess.
I've got questions back in to see if Dan can tell me more specifically how the "firewall is different"; welding I don't do, but drilling a new hole and patching an old I certainly could. And, I'm not sure what "updated actuator" he's referring to, so I'll need to scrutinize the new installation manual and compare to that in my complete kit manual.
So, my plan now is to take a look at the parts Mike sends me, have a chat with him if I have questions, and proceed with the new quadrant / cable approach if it appears to make sense.
In the meantime, I know there are builders out there with experience, and with recommendations and insight into what I'm facing. Any thoughts and input appreciated.
After noting that the clutch cable quadrant rubbed against the edge of the steel bracket (like everyone else's), and that the spacer shaft was a bit too short to allow the retainer ring to go in neatly (like everyone else's), and that I had actually cut the press-in stud too short by the thickness of the steel bracket (don't ask...), I bumped up against something that needed the advice of folks on the forum.
I finally turfed up information on the offset clutch quadrant design, and noted the difference between my older complete kit instructions and the new pedal box instructions, which show the new quadrant. So now I know the problems that were caused by the offset design, and which motivated the new design which has the quadrant in line with the clutch pedal.
I should clarify that at the time I got my kit in mid-2012, they were using the beefier forged Wilwood pedals, so that's good. Also good is the fact that I have not put the front aluminum panel in place yet on the DS footbox, so the area is wide open for mods if that's what I end up doing.
My options are to use the existing offset quadrant that came with my kit (not too keen on that option), use the newer design, or go with a hydraulic clutch option. I am NOT intending to introduce the well-worn "would you choose hydraulic or cable and why" discussion, I know both can work and work well. My plans were to use the cable because that's what came with my kit, and I still intend to do that if the mods are reasonable.
I ordered the parts to do the conversion to the in-line quadrant from Mike, and they're on the way. So obviously he feels the conversion can be done. At the same time, I got my answer back from FFR that "The new quadrant system will not work for your kit, as the firewall is different for the new design. The system you have with the updated actuator is what would need to be used, other than a aftermarket hydro clutch system", which is not a surprising answer, and technically true, I would guess.
I've got questions back in to see if Dan can tell me more specifically how the "firewall is different"; welding I don't do, but drilling a new hole and patching an old I certainly could. And, I'm not sure what "updated actuator" he's referring to, so I'll need to scrutinize the new installation manual and compare to that in my complete kit manual.
So, my plan now is to take a look at the parts Mike sends me, have a chat with him if I have questions, and proceed with the new quadrant / cable approach if it appears to make sense.
In the meantime, I know there are builders out there with experience, and with recommendations and insight into what I'm facing. Any thoughts and input appreciated.