Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Graduated!! [Archive]

shark92651

03-17-2018, 02:04 PM

My car is graduated! Shortcut to graduation pics (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27777-Shark92651-s-MK4-Coyote-Build-9327-Graduated!!&p=429003&viewfull=1#post429003)

While my Kit is still about 3 weeks from delivery, I have actually started working on it already so I decided to go ahead and start a build thread so that I can consolidate all my updates and questions into a single thread. If you count the obsessive research I have been doing online, I guess you could say I have been "working" on it since December 2017. I attended the Mott Build School the weekend of 3/9 - 3/11, which I found to be excellent. I met a lot of cool people including a few more builders here in Texas.

I've always loved the Shelby Cobra as long as I can remember, and have thought about building a replica off and on over the years. I finally got my mind set that I was going to build a Factory Five roadster and with a tepid buy-in from the wife (she is coming around, or at least accepted it is inevitable now) it is on now. Besides, I was born in 1965 so it's like it was meant to be ;)

Here is my planned build:

MK4 Complete Kit with IRS
Coyote 5.0L
Tremec TKO 600
Quicktime Bellhousing
Ford Performance Clutch
Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing
KRC Power Steering
Koni single-adjustable shocks
13" Wilwood brakes
18" Halibrand Wheels
Stainless side pipes

Other Upgrades
Dual Breeze Stainless Roll Bars
Russ Thompson Trunk Box (yes I'm going to cut the diagonals)
Russ Thompson turn signals
Competition Gauge Layout
Leather Covered Dash w/ Glove Box
USB Charger, 12V adapter, Footwell Lights (hidden under dash)
Leather Removable Trans Tunnel Cover
Leather Bucket Seats
Leather Door Panels
LED Headlights, turn signals, tail/brake lights, dash indicators

Color is undecided at this point, probably one of the first items I ever thought about and will probably be the last decision I make.

I'm really looking forward to this process and want to thank everyone that has helped me already and those that will in the future. This forum and it's participants are an invaluable resource! My experience with working on cars in not very extensive. I have installed LED lighting in the front and rear of my truck, replaced a radiator on my Z3 I used to own several years ago, and some basic maintenance, but that is about it. I've done quite a few jobs around the house (electrical, plumbing, etc.) and ran network wiring and camera systems in two offices so I know my way around tools, oh and I am REAL good at Googling and YouTubing.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4742/39753935004_93a53b29ec_c.jpg
Here is my one-car garage where I will be building. It's a little tight, but I have 1/2 of the 2 car garage just across from this one to store my body and boxes of parts. Up to this point I've just been getting this work area ready.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/793/39970056805_ed4e63ecf2_c.jpg
I had a large monitor and a Chrome Box at the office that were not being used so I mounted them on the wall over one of my workbenches and connected to my home WiFi - this should be very useful.

shark92651

03-17-2018, 02:08 PM

Here is the body buck I built to store the body and boxes. I built this using the instructions in the PDF from Factory Five. It's in the two-car garage parked next to my wife's car.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/28412287099_64ccbe31db_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4762/28412287149_7138c774c5_c.jpg

shark92651

03-17-2018, 02:21 PM

The first part I ordered and received was the Tremec TKO 600 Upgraded/Synchronized from Liberty Gears. It has the .62 5th gear, which I think is the best choice for highway cruising. Unfortunately Liberty Gears forgot to add milling off the tail housing to my work order as I requested. They apologized and offered to have me ship it back but that is just too much trouble, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to learn how to use my new Dewalt 11amp angle grinder.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/39049856310_3044ddc4ba_c.jpg

I marked it and started with a cutting wheel. I removed the guard otherwise it was just too hard to get in there. After a bit of cutting on both sides I whacked it with the hammer and it came right off.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4785/40155458214_935100a550_c.jpg

I then figured it would be good to practice with the grinding disc and the flap wheel since I will need to cut the rear spindles soon enough and make them pretty. Didn't turn out too bad. I made sure to cut plenty off as I read that a few people discovered they had to cut more off once they tried dropping in the motor and trans - I want to avoid that headache.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4779/40154772294_662b231f97_c.jpg
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/821/25987664177_23305a4732_c.jpg

shark92651

03-17-2018, 02:34 PM

I got a few boxes in from Summit Racing today. Quicktime bellhousing, Moroso oil pan and pickup, Moroso radiator reservoir, air intake parts, Tilton hydraulic release bearing and master cylinder, and a few other items.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/798/39053592750_d82f3b7e3a_c.jpg

I bought the steel Quicktime bellhousing and also picked up a Summit universal driveshaft loop, at the recommendation of the instructors at Mott College. I think it's good insurance should something catastrophic happen on either side of the transmission. I'm kind of attached to most of my body parts and intend to keep it that way.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/798/40154772204_c03646ca5f_c.jpg

shark92651

03-17-2018, 02:40 PM

Venom61

03-17-2018, 07:17 PM

Welcome to the forum. Building a Factory Five a great experience, but not without its challenges. This forum is a great resource. The Moroso Oil pan I received arrived with one port unplugged. From reading other posts on this forum, the open plug is for an Oil Level Sensor. We just threaded a plug into the orifice for now, but I don't see why you couldn't use it for an oil temp sender.

Rick1916

03-17-2018, 07:55 PM

You’re going to have a blast building this. And if you’re like me, when it’s done, you’ll start looking around for your next project. After the roadster build came a 350 SBC conversion into a Porsche 944 race car. Now my team and I are ready and waiting for the ‘65 Daytona Coupe to arrive. Guess Stewart is a little backed up at the moment.

Boydster

03-17-2018, 08:15 PM

Welcome to The Madness, Mr. Shark. Building a machine like this is an amazing time. Just be prepared to walk away and think things over when it doesn't seem right. Dont get in a hurry and do every step exactly the way you want it to be. Your Factory 5 Roadster will be awesome.

edwardb

03-17-2018, 08:27 PM

Here is a pic of the oil pan. I notice it has a plug on either side and on each end, with one of the plugs missing. I assume the plug in the rear is the oil drain plug, what are the others for? I want to ditch the clock that comes with my vintage gauge kit and add an oil temperature gauge (yes I know probably unnecessary for my needs, but I want it anyway). Would I use one of these holes for the oil temp sender? Which hole should I use and what is the recommended sender unit for my application?

The open threaded hole on the LH side of your Moroso pan, as already stated, is intended for the Coyote low oil sensor. My 2015 Gen 2 Coyote had the sensor. But my understanding is later years didn't include one. Moroso 22738 is available to plug it. Something else might be available, but it's 20mm x 1.5mm threads, so maybe not too common.

The rear plug is the oil drain. Front one, I don't know. The bung on the RH side is for an oil temp sender. You could have it on either side, but likely that one is the more common threads. If you buy an oil temp gauge from Speedhut, it will come with a sender. Sidebar, I had an oil temp gauge on #7750. It was interesting I guess. But didn't really tell me anything. For the most part, tended to follow water temp. For track use, probably has some value because it will go and down depending on how hard you're working the engine. But for street cruising, oil pressure and water temp get the job done IMO.

sbhunter

03-18-2018, 08:33 AM

I am wiring my 17 coyote now. The wire for the oil temp is in the convolute with the oil pressure and water temp leads which would be the left side of the motor or pan. My oil pan just clears my motor mounts going in and out. I actually had to move the motor forward as I lowered it to get the bungs to clear the mounts. I’m not sure how you’d do it with a sender threaded into one of them. I am not using an oil temp gauge on mine so I didn’t have to sort out the actual thread.

Mark Eaton

03-18-2018, 06:55 PM

Shark, I'm impressed with how clean and organized your shop is. And you have clearly done your research. I look forward to your build thread. If you ever want to see the sloppy "winging it" technique just check out my build thread!

Mark

shark92651

03-23-2018, 08:26 PM

Looking over my transmission today and I read that some people ordered billet plugs for the mechanical speedometer. This is what I see on my TKO 600 from Liberty Gears. Do I need to order anything or did they already plug it?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/803/27107240298_3c7d06a14a_c.jpg

Also, do I need to do anything with these plugs/wires or just leave them as is?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/27107240328_fa2449f819_c.jpg
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4776/27107240308_f87a10fc81_c.jpg

shark92651

03-23-2018, 09:46 PM

Also I received this today and got it into the garage and up on blocks. I won't be able to do much to it until I get my engine lift brackets (ordered from FFR, coming with my kit). I guess in the meantime I can read up on how to mount the oil pan and pickup and remove that oil cooler. I have the short oil filter adapter on the way from Tasco. Did I read correctly that the proper tools to remove the oil cooler is a 14mm allen and a breaker bar?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/815/39163876900_576a87f205_c.jpg

wareaglescott

03-24-2018, 05:40 AM

Cant remember the size of the allen but that sounds right. You do not need a breaker bar. If you have the right side allen it comes off pretty easily.
Your tranny plug looks different than mine but should be good to go. The one that comes with the transmission is just a plastic plug for shipping. I just cut off the wires as they are not needed.

Higgybulin

03-24-2018, 05:57 AM

Nice work space!! I will gladly follow along!! Congrats on the build.
Higgy

edwardb

03-24-2018, 06:41 AM

Also posted on the other forum: The T-56 that I received for my Coupe build a few weeks ago had the same plug in the external speed control port. I checked it out, and it's a very substantial metal plug with an O-ring and bolt. Very different than the rubber shipping plug they used to put there which had to be replaced if you didn't install a speed sensor. It's every bit as good as the various billet pieces available. Nothing further to do IMO. Thank you Tremec.

The connection with the pigtails at the back is the neutral safety switch. Unless you're planning to wire something like that (most don't...) you don't need it. The clutch switches with your Coyote installation provide a very adequate safety setup if installed as instructed. On the TKO's I've installed, I just clipped off the leads at the base. If you're not comfortable doing that, tie off the lead so it doesn't dangle.

The connection with the plug on the RH side is the internal speed sensor. The Coyote PCM doesn't required a speed signal. If you have the GPS speedo, you don't need it there either. Your Ron Francis harness though has a pigtail and connection for there. On my Anniversary Roadster build, I went ahead and plugged in the RF connection just to cover the connector and keep the RF pigtail from dangling. The wires aren't connected to anything up at the dash. But they're available if ever needed.

For the oil cooler, I don't remember the exact size, but it is a hex socket that is visible when you remove the oil filter. Same exact socket as in the short adapter you already have on hand.

shark92651

03-25-2018, 09:47 PM

There is not a whole lot for me to work on while waiting for my kit to arrive, but I did take the flywheel off and put the blocking plate on behind it and re-torqued the flywheel bolts. Should I replace these? They seemed perfectly fine, no galling of any kind that I could see. This is probably not news to most, but in order to keep the flywheel from turning while removing/installing the bolts I used a couple of the pressure plate bolts and a pry bar between them. I wish I had my clutch to install but it is supposed to ship on Monday.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/26145076737_76676f6809_c.jpg

I went to a local Cobra Club meet on Saturday and when I got back my Wilwood brakes were waiting for me! I couldn't resist putting those together. I discovered that safety wiring is not one of my favorite tasks, but I managed to get through all four rotors. I'm glad that is over with. These brakes look awesome, I can't wait to bolt them in place!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/40955428552_c2844c9b36_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4784/39187541520_0ba022b8fe_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/794/40973642512_fa4251781f_c.jpg

One last minor update. I want to put a couple cup holders in my trans cover near the dash - mostly a place to hold my phone while charging it with a USB port I plan to hide below the dash, but also a place to hold small items or maybe even a drink, LOL! Anyway someone suggested these jumbo size stainless poker table cup holders. They are 4" wide from edge to edge of the lip with 3.5" width inside - perfect for my iPhone X. I wanted some rubber liners and I found these Nissan Armada cup holder liners on eBay and they are exactly 3.5" diameter and they fit like a glove!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/786/39187541190_6428683642_c.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00911UX6A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
The inserts I found on eBay - they are 2016-18 Nissan Armada Front Center Console Cup Holder Rubber Insert Liner

Logan

03-25-2018, 10:49 PM

shark92651

03-27-2018, 07:07 AM

If that's your first time safety wiring, you could've fooled me. It looks pretty good, and believe me when I say I've seen some sketchy safety wired stuff at motorcycle track events.

As far as the flywheel bolts are concerned, it's not usually a galling issue (steel fasteners and steel threads in the crankshaft). When you hear "replace flywheel bolts any time they're removed" it's typically due to the threads of the fastener stretching when torqued to yield. Sometimes the OEM specs a torque (lb-ft) plus an additional angle (degrees) that the flywheel bolts are tightened to, and that makes them a one-use deal. It's a lot easier to pop new bolts in at this step than to have one come out later on when it's all put together in the car.

Looking good so far! I really like the coating on your garage floor.

Thanks Logan, I just bought a set of safety wire pliers from HF and watched a youtube video. It wasn't too difficult, but a pain to fish the wire through some of the bolt heads. I went ahead and ordered a new set of flywheel bolts so will replace those when I get my clutch in and hopefully won't have to mess with them again. Getting the garage floors coated was my first home improvement after moving into the new house, that and the monkey bars shelving - best upgrade ever!

shark92651

03-27-2018, 08:26 AM

Another question about the oil pan. I received this 20mm Moroso plug and I notice it has a wide head and a copper washer, similar to the drain plug that came on the pan. The other two plugs that came with the pan have no head and no washer, but appear to have what looks like anti-seize compound on the threads. Will both of these plugs work easily well at sealing without leaks or am I supposed to use some teflon tape or some other product on the threads of the plugs without a head?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/41049584741_d2dea17090_c.jpg

edwardb

03-27-2018, 08:43 AM

Also as posted on the other forum: You're looking at two different thread types there. The two plugs with no head or washer (intended for optional supercharger drain back and oil temperature sender) are tapered 1/2-inch NPT threads. They should be tight after 4-5-6 turns. Standard practice on that type of thread to use a sealant or tape. For automotive use, I strongly recommend sealant. But that's a whole other discussion. Either will work in this application. The other two -- the drain plug and oil level sensor you pictured -- are straight cut threads and use a copper crush washer. No sealant required, although it's generally recommended to use a new crush washer each time it's removed.

shark92651

03-27-2018, 10:58 AM

Yama-Bro

03-27-2018, 12:14 PM

One last minor update. I want to put a couple cup holders in my trans cover near the dash - mostly a place to hold my phone while charging it with a USB port I plan to hide below the dash, but also a place to hold small items or maybe even a drink, LOL! Anyway someone suggested these jumbo size stainless poker table cup holders. They are 4" wide from edge to edge of the lip with 3.5" width inside - perfect for my iPhone X. I wanted some rubber liners and I found these Nissan Armada cup holder liners on eBay and they are exactly 3.5" diameter and they fit like a glove!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/786/39187541190_6428683642_c.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00911UX6A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
The inserts I found on eBay - they are 2016-18 Nissan Armada Front Center Console Cup Holder Rubber Insert Liner

Good find on the Armada cup holder liners. Do they come out easy if you have a bigger cup to drop in?

edwardb

03-27-2018, 12:46 PM

Thanks Paul, you are a wealth of knowledge! I still have a lot to learn. So when dealing with NPT, I assume the 1/2" or 1/8" measurement is the ID?

NPT is different than most others. The cited size is roughly related to the ID. But there are other factors. Your best bet it consult a chart like this one.

https://www.pyromation.com/Downloads/Data/NPT_Thread_Chart.pdf

shark92651

03-27-2018, 02:27 PM

Good find on the Armada cup holder liners. Do they come out easy if you have a bigger cup to drop in?

yes they are ribbed on the back so if you squeeze one side with your fingers it will pull out pretty easily.

RodneyArcher

03-29-2018, 10:09 AM

shark92651

03-29-2018, 04:07 PM

Shark, welcome and congratulations! It looks like we are building almost the same car, lots of similarities. It looks like you are off to a great start. I will be following along and will try and keep up. :cool:

Good luck on your build as well. I just found out today that Stewart Transport is about 10 days behind schedule so my kit did not get loaded this week after all. This is like a kid finding out out Christmas Eve that Santa is a going to be 2 weeks late :(

RodneyArcher

03-29-2018, 05:56 PM

Waiting is the worst! But when that truck pulls up in front of your house it is truly like Christmas, birthday, Super Bowl Sunday all rolled into one!

stevant

03-29-2018, 06:23 PM

I received the same news on my delivery but they say it will be picked up on Monday......let's hope they are right!! Looks like our builds will be on the same timeline!

shark92651

04-01-2018, 07:59 AM

Hopefully my kit will be picked up this week, but no word on that yet. I didn't get a whole lot of work done this weekend because I couldn't get the engine on the stand. I couldn't source the grade 10.9 M10 x 1.5 x 100mm bolts locally so going to have to wait on a delivery from McMaster this week. I did manage to get a few things done, however.

As others have mentioned, I removed some material in the oil pan in the area that may cause interference with the dipstick. I used a rotary burr file on the angle grinder to get the bulk of the material off and finished it up with small sanding drums on the Dremel. Cleaning out all the bits of aluminum was a pain. I removed that top plate and then used hot water and Simple Green. I wiped it out with paper towels and then blew it out with my compressor. It took awhile but I finally got it all out.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/26249212757_4d0094ce82_c.jpg

I got my clutch in this week and of course the dowels had to be swapped so I took the flywheel back off. I flipped it upside down and laid it across a couple 2x4's and drove out the old dowels with a 1/4" punch.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/40405244844_851a26ac78_c.jpg

To drive the new dowels in I used a cool tip I saw on Youtube. I took a large bolt and I drilled a 1/4" hole into the head just deep enough to set the dowels slightly recessed into the flywheel. I also ground off the raised identification letters on the head of the bolt so that it wouldn't stamp them into the flywheel. I have no idea if that would actually happen, but didn't want to take a chance. I also left the dowels in the freezer overnight, just a touch of oil, used my homemade starter punch, and they drove in very easily. Flywheel is now installed with new flywheel bolts, properly torqued to 177 in/lbs + 60 degrees.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/806/40405249204_813a4d9d8a_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/872/41115839161_38240d7603_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/26244445237_ecd47bb21d_c.jpg

I borrowed lift brackets from a friend so I was finally able to get the engine off the pallet. I may have to shorten those chains when I am putting it in the car to get enough height out of it. I put the motor on the fixed engine cradle I bought from https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/ so that I could drain the oil. Of course I then realized I bought the wrong cradle. It works great for the stock oil pan but it isn't going to clear the Moroso pan. I emailed Kurt asking if I could exchange it, hopefully that won't be an issue. For those looking for an engine cradle, the price and quality is right at Stumpy's. The model you want for the Coyote and the Moroso pan is the MOD-PAW - "W" for Wide.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/39347177170_08f4f12e32_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/39347546860_2001f11383_c.jpg

shark92651

04-01-2018, 08:01 AM

I can confirm that the tool you need to get that oil cooler off is a 14mm hex. It came off real easy with the proper bit and a ratchet.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/41113428922_0d926f1e56_c.jpg

This is what a homer bucket of synthetic motor oil looks like. I bought a clean bucket and lid on my last trip to Home Depot so that I could save and reuse all this. Well I guess there isn't anything for me to do at this point until I get those bolts in and get the engine on the stand. Hopefully next update will be with the oil pan and pickup, clutch, bellhousing, Tilton hydraulic unit, and transmission all installed.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/41113436042_ae2cfe55cd_c.jpg

shark92651

04-01-2018, 12:52 PM

This is the sort of random thing my mind comes up with when I have nothing to work on. I was looking at the stand for the monitor I mounted on the wall. It's pretty thick 12 ga steel with a plastic cover and I got an idea. 30 minutes later after using a 1" hole saw on it and then opening it up a bit more with the Dremel, I now have a pretty decent transmission platform for my floor jack. This should prove useful for the rear diff and the gas tank.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/41163353091_5422ed4bbe_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/39353177240_54578f9fcc_c.jpg

shark92651

04-06-2018, 09:05 PM

Well another week has gone by and no word of my kit being picked up :( I did manage to get the engine mounted to a stand I borrowed from a friend and got the oil pan and pickup swapped out. The pickup had a little surface rust on it so I cleaned it up with a Scotch Brite pad and then wiped it down with some motor oil. I'm glad to get this part done - I'm not a big fan of using this rotating engine stand, makes me a bit nervous. I'll be glad when it's back on the ground in the engine cradle.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/864/40389375655_7e852758bc_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/40572242114_d6996bd48b_c.jpg

Here is a shot of the adapter and the oil temp sender I purchased. Someone said there may be interference with the frame and this sender - anybody know if that is the case?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/40389381365_3b0184ff86_c.jpg

edwardb

04-07-2018, 07:55 AM

Here is a shot of the adapter and the oil temp sender I purchased. Someone said there may be interference with the frame and this sender - anybody know if that is the case?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/40389381365_3b0184ff86_c.jpg

There is a little under 3 inches between the sides of the Coyote Moroso pan and the 4 inch frame tubes in the Roadster. Nearly the same on both sides. Can't tell for sure, but looks like you might be OK. I'd recommend leaving it off until the engine is installed though. One less thing to bump into. Plus I'd figure out something different if you can't get it on/off with the engine installed.

shark92651

04-07-2018, 10:26 AM

There is a little under 3 inches between the sides of the Coyote Moroso pan and the 4 inch frame tubes in the Roadster. Nearly the same on both sides. Can't tell for sure, but looks like you might be OK. I'd recommend leaving it off until the engine is installed though. One less thing to bump into. Plus I'd figure out something different if you can't get it on/off with the engine installed.

Thanks Paul. I guess I'll wait until the engine is installed before I put the oil back in it just in case I do have to swap that out or remove it temporarily.

shark92651

04-07-2018, 10:32 AM

I got my back-ordered alternator kit in yesterday so I went ahead and installed it. Pretty straightforward install, despite the lack of any real instructions other than a diagram with torque values.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/41254640632_76149a5265_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/26425330747_a3ec48a9a3_c.jpg

The instructions don't address this pulley at all. I assume it could be used in place of the silver one on the tensioner. Any reason to use one over the other?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/40401365815_b466049a6c_c.jpg

Ducky2009

04-07-2018, 12:55 PM

Well another week has gone by and no word of my kit being picked up :( I did manage to get the engine mounted to a stand I borrowed from a friend and got the oil pan and pickup swapped out. The pickup had a little surface rust on it so I cleaned it up with a Scotch Brite pad and then wiped it down with some motor oil. I'm glad to get this part done - I'm not a big fan of using this rotating engine stand, makes me a bit nervous. I'll be glad when it's back on the ground in the engine cradle.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/40389381365_3b0184ff86_c.jpg

Did you check to make sure the dip stick aligned with the cutout in the oil pan? I too have the Moroso pan and had to modify (all a hole) to allow the dip stick to go all the way in without hitting the pan and deflecting. If it hits and deflects, it will appear that you are low on oil. Over filling could occur if not modified.

wareaglescott

04-07-2018, 02:06 PM

edwardb

04-07-2018, 03:22 PM

This issue was discovered several years ago when Moroso released these pans for the Coyote. They added a slot for the dipstick to go through. When I received the pan for my Anniversary build, I checked. It had the slot but my dipstick will still hanging up. I did a quick check, reviewed forum posts, and drilled a hole. Still found it hung up. What I found on mine was it was hitting the cross piece underneath the slot they cut. Trimmed that and problem was solved. The area I found the interference is indicated in this photo. Along with the hole I drilled which didn't fix the problem. Your experience may vary, but this is what I found. I'll be going through this again on my Coupe build. I have the new Moroso pan, but not the engine yet.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_1617_zps6ws9u2sf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_1617_zps6ws9u2sf.jpg.html)

shark92651

04-07-2018, 04:50 PM

Did you check to make sure the dip stick aligned with the cutout in the oil pan? I too have the Moroso pan and had to modify (all a hole) to allow the dip stick to go all the way in without hitting the pan and deflecting. If it hits and deflects, it will appear that you are low on oil. Over filling could occur if not modified.

If you look at the photo in my post #30 you can see the material I trimmed in my pan. In testing, it feels and sounds like it is making very minimal contact. I think it is just touching the vertical wall of the area I milled out and then deflecting slightly down it. I don't think it is going to be an issue like it would be if it were deflecting 90 degrees.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/26249212757_4d0094ce82_c.jpg

Ducky2009

04-08-2018, 12:06 PM

I am a little unsure about the area Ducky is pointing at on that oil pan. Maybe they changed the design some. Completely different from where Paul determined his dipstick was hitting. Maybe he can chime in with his photo as well.

After reading that there was an issue, I installed the pan (before modification), only installing a few bolts (loosely) on the opposite side of the dip stick. I lifted the pan an inch or so and pushed the dip stick in until it hit. Seeing where it touched, I marked it with a sharpie. Had to remove the pan to mark it. I re-installed to verify, then drilled. The hole looks slightly off center in the pic. That's due to the fact I had to lift so much to take the pic. Looked better with a minimal crack to peak through. See pic
NOTE: I also turned the dip stick 180 degrees to verify it didn't have a bend and would hang up if installed 180 out.

shark92651

04-08-2018, 12:57 PM

I guess it's more important to post about your failures than your successes so that others can benefit from the experience. That being said, as I was taking the box for my oil pan pickup to the recycle bin I found a small envelope with a large O-Ring in it! Oops, I'm guessing that is important, so everything is coming back off. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise as it gave me an opportunity to double-check the issue that Ducky2009 was bringing up and he was 100% correct!

Here is the O-Ring I didn't notice the first time, so got that in place
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/899/39513103840_d13bb3942d_c.jpg

One quick look at the oil pan and it was obvious that the "slight interference" I was feeling was much bigger than I thought and exactly as Ducky described. Hopefully this will be useful to others, you can't just assume that what worked for others will work for you. You need to test this. It's as easy as putting the oil pan in place and installing a few bolts to hold it and then insert and remove your dipstick several times and the steel dipstick will easily scratch the aluminum to show you exactly where contact is happening.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/26450925077_22298688dd_c.jpg

A center punch and step drill made quick work of opening up this area for the dipstick. Cleaning out all the chips again is a pain, but two-steps forward and 1 step back seems to be my MO. Now that last inch of inserting the dipstick is completely smooth and I no longer hear any contact being made - problem solved!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/865/41322695551_6bbd42e93a_c.jpg

You can see from this photo there is a rather large area that the dipstick can emerge from so easy to see that the path it takes can vary quite a bit depending on the engine, the pan, and how you choose to insert the dipstick.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/798/41279799682_1d65a0b7e5_c.jpg

shark92651

04-14-2018, 03:31 PM

Well another week has gone buy and my kit is still sitting in the warehouse at FFR :( Jolene at Stewart Transport implied that my kit may get picked up next week, but she didn't actually commit so fingers crossed. I did receive the correct wide engine cradle from stumpysfabworks so I was able to get the Coyote off the engine stand and get some work done on my powertrain.

Cleaned the flywheel and clutch plates very well with brake cleaner and acetone and got the clutch installed with the alignment tool and properly torqued down.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/813/41456820951_c7bedae6cf_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/26585783967_7d8f23eb2b_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/27585631358_512f4e1b00_c.jpg

Next I got the bellhousing installed and torqued down to the backer plate and the block.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/888/41414013022_d9f4059002_c.jpg

I then was able to setup and install my Tilton release bearing. It's a fairly simple process that requires measuring with calipers and a straight edge from the face of the bellhousing to where the bearing makes contact with the diaphragm spring fingers. You then subtract .125 for an air gap. In my case that came out to 3.84". You then turn the threaded adjustment sleeve on the release bearing until you set that distance from the front of the bearing to the face of the transmission where the bellhousing is mounted. You then remove one of the transmission bearing bolts and replace it with the supplied threaded guide rod which prevents the HRB from rotating.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/803/27585855308_dd6ae3c4f6_c.jpg

If the guide rod extends beyond the face of the bearing you are supposed to cut it down to avoid interference. In my case it did not, but I cut it down anyway because I'm afraid there could be possible contact with the centrifugal weights on the Centerforce clutch and that would be bad. You just need enough rod to prevent rotation.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/822/26585802127_fe57882205_c.jpg

shark92651

04-14-2018, 03:33 PM

That's about all I can do for now. I need to figure out what size bolts I need to mount the transmission to the bellhousing. So far from a few minutes of Googling I cannot find that info. Anybody know? I suppose I could make a call to QuickTime on Monday if I don't have a bolt lying around that fits.

UPDATE: Just to clarify, the correct bolts are Grade 10.9 Flanged Head M10-1.5 x 30mm. The official part from Quick Time is RM-170 but a little pricey. I just picked up some bolts at my local hardware store. The threads on my bellhousing were a little jacked so I chased them with a tap and all is good now.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/787/40762169334_d284c9c0fa_c.jpg

shark92651

04-15-2018, 12:59 PM

Here is a shot from inside the bellhousing after trans installed. It's a bit hard to make out but you can see the 1/8" clearance between bearing and fingers and looks to be no interference issues at all. Cool :cool:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/792/41433553452_7cec655bab_c.jpg

Rsnake

04-15-2018, 03:39 PM

shark92651

04-15-2018, 07:28 PM

Looking good so far.
When Jolene says next week does she mean the week of the 16th or 23rd?
She has told me mine will be picked up the week of the 23rd so it will arrive when my son returns from boot camp.
Ours might be on the same truck.

I'll be upset if I don't get a call this week that it is on the truck, but I think it is going to happen.

Rsnake

04-15-2018, 07:34 PM

The waiting has been the hardest part. I hope you get the call.

shark92651

04-15-2018, 08:40 PM

And just for completeness, here is a pic of the installed starter.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/41485338861_65abfc704d_c.jpg

shark92651

04-18-2018, 08:29 AM

Got an email from Stewart Transport that increased their estimated delays from 7-10 days to 21 days. I called FFR and talked to someone in the warehouse and they said that Stewart was sending 2 trucks this week and that they are "up to" the week of my build, but they don't think my kit is going to make it onto either of those trucks - not what I wanted to hear. Here is a photo of my kit sitting in the warehouse. Poor thing looks so homesick to me.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/844/39729756500_2dae904698_c.jpg

RodneyArcher

04-18-2018, 02:34 PM

shark92651

04-20-2018, 10:28 AM

I think the only thing harder than waiting on the kit is waiting on crucial parts after you have the kit! The consolation is you get to walk out to the garage and look at it. It will be more than 2 months from the time of delivery until I get my shocks...ugh!

Yeah I just emailed Stewart again and found out that my kit did NOT get picked up this week, but they promise next week, even gave me the name of the driver. The frustrating part is I just saw a post from a guy on the Factory Five Builder Facebook page that his kit just got picked up today, yet his kit was completed just a week ago on 4/14. Mine has been sitting there ready since 3/24! Probably has something to do with the route and his location in the country but still leaves me feeling frustrated. :mad:

RodneyArcher

04-20-2018, 03:19 PM

That's frustrating! I struggled with Stewart as well but not to this degree. Cross your fingers that when the truck does get there the driver doesn't drop your car from the winch like he did mine! No damage was done (only dropped a foot or so back down on the support rail in the truck) but it made my heart stop regardless!

shark92651

04-22-2018, 08:05 AM

This week I received the standard glovebox I ordered from Alex's Custom Roadsters. Overall I am impressed with the quality of the glovebox and I think it will look great on my dash. I sent Alex a piece of my interior leather and he covered the door with it and did a great job. The door is heavy and solid and the latches are very substantial - it's WAY better than the cheap glovebox on Factory Five's padded dash, which will bend like a piece of thin paper if you push on one side of it. There are a couple upgrades I made to the glovebox, however. First you can see that the latch slides into a slot cut into the top of the glovebox. I found that depending on how much pressure you use when closing the door that the latch may not always line up with the slot so may take a bit of back and forth movement to find the right position. I made a back stop out of 3/4" aluminum angle for a positive stop right at the slot - gave me a chance to practice with my powder coating setup as well. I also purchased some nylon flocking fibers, acrylic paint, and a flocking tube from craftflocking.com and flocked the inside of the glovebox. I like the velvety look and feel much more than the shiny plastic.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/40911576454_0e9e287309_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/924/41581980462_0b3c373b9c_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/884/26753755707_45a3c43a4a_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/824/26753761817_a28b45818d_c.jpg

cv2065

04-22-2018, 02:29 PM

Yeah I just emailed Stewart again and found out that my kit did NOT get picked up this week, but they promise next week, even gave me the name of the driver. The frustrating part is I just saw a post from a guy on the Factory Five Builder Facebook page that his kit just got picked up today, yet his kit was completed just a week ago on 4/14. Mine has been sitting there ready since 3/24! Probably has something to do with the route and his location in the country but still leaves me feeling frustrated. :mad:
I don't blame you. After reviewing some of these threads going back to 2016, it would seem that FFR would have a better control on delivery and kit contents? I work for a national manufacturer myself and unless we are having a materials or truck shortage, which is very rare, everything is delivered in full. In fact, if we don't deliver in full, we end up paying for it through our contracts to our retailers.

I realize that a lot goes into one of these kits, but when does it get to a point where you get your kit a week or two after completion and it's 100% in full? Mine will be ready on 6/16. Hopefully there are no delays!

edwardb

04-22-2018, 03:43 PM

I don't blame you. After reviewing some of these threads going back to 2016, it would seem that FFR would have a better control on delivery and kit contents? I work for a national manufacturer myself and unless we are having a materials or truck shortage, which is very rare, everything is delivered in full. In fact, if we don't deliver in full, we end up paying for it through our contracts to our retailers.

I realize that a lot goes into one of these kits, but when does it get to a point where you get your kit a week or two after completion and it's 100% in full? Mine will be ready on 6/16. Hopefully there are no delays!

Really tough about the delivery delays. I've done several self pickups, and only one Stewart delivery. I was pretty lucky it was only a couple weeks between completion and delivery. And that seemed like a long time! Really feel for builders caught up in this issue with Stewart. Factory Five is selling a lot of kits right now and Stewart is having trouble keeping up. That's what the driver told me in December. Apparently as well they've had driver and truck issues not the least bit helped by a long and crummy winter. Not good to say the least. Hopefully they will get it sorted out soon.

Just to be clear though, Factory Five doesn't control Stewart. They're a separate company. Factory Five provides them with the lists of kits, dates, and destinations. Stewart takes it from there. In my conversations with Factory Five, they strongly encouraged me to stay in constant contact with them (Jolene) and once my kit was picked up I'd be in contact with the driver. That's pretty much how it worked out.

Regarding backordered parts, I've talked about this in each of my build threads. I'm not defending it, but it's a reality. I too worked for several large multi-nationals and that level of backorders would not be tolerated. But (again, not defending, just stating the way it is...) they're a small company doing a pretty complex and unique job. We had way more sophisticated planning and delivery systems, many more people, and a lot more clout with our vendors. Best bet is to expect backorders, don't let it disappoint you or get you down, follow-up regularly once you know what they are (which you won't until the actual delivery), and be prepared to be flexible with the initial stages of your build. You may need to jump around a little at first, depending on your build speed. Once you get the backorder parts behind you, you'll totally forget about it. Trust me. But it's painful at first. I know.

cv2065

04-22-2018, 05:49 PM

But (again, not defending, just stating the way it is...) they're a small company doing a pretty complex and unique job. We had way more sophisticated planning and delivery systems, many more people, and a lot more clout with our vendors. Best bet is to expect backorders, don't let it disappoint you or get you down, follow-up regularly once you know what they are (which you won't until the actual delivery), and be prepared to be flexible with the initial stages of your build. You may need to jump around a little at first, depending on your build speed. Once you get the backorder parts behind you, you'll totally forget about it. Trust me. But it's painful at first. I know.

Good points. I would have tried to pick mine up myself, but I'm so far away that even a U-Haul is the same price as Stewart curbside, so can't complain too much. Just got to keep focused on that end product and starting up the first go kart!!

shark92651

04-27-2018, 10:05 AM

Didn't hear from Stewart this week either so I called FFR. Sally says it looks like it may get picked up on Monday.

https://media.giphy.com/media/tXL4FHPSnVJ0A/giphy.gif

initiator

04-27-2018, 01:54 PM

Just making sure - you used new flywheel bolts when you re-installed, yes? Hoping others can learn from my mistake.

shark92651

04-27-2018, 05:25 PM

Yeah I did, the 2nd time ;) Thanks

Rsnake

04-27-2018, 06:27 PM

I swapped some emails with Jolene at Stewart on Wednesday and she said they have multiple trucks on the way to factory five to pick up kits. So I am assuming Monday might be the day. Ours might be on the same truck.

shark92651

05-02-2018, 12:33 PM

Well I finally received word from Stewart that my kit is on the truck and should be delivered to me either Monday or Tuesday. :)

Rsnake

05-02-2018, 03:09 PM

I have a feeling our kits are on the same truck. Stewart said mine was heading to Phoenix to be offloaded to another truck and on the way to California.
Texas is sort of on the way to Arizona.

shark92651

05-07-2018, 09:37 PM

Well after many weeks delay my kit has finally arrived. I promise I'll stop complaining about how long it is taking now ;)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/27096161797_b7379a02d3_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/827/27096161687_eed0fd9d41_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/829/40158061540_eed0fd9d41_c.jpg

RodneyArcher

05-07-2018, 09:52 PM

Congratulations!

Rsnake

05-07-2018, 10:06 PM

Congratulations! Let the fun begin. Did you see any other cars in the truck? I am hoping mine is in there.

shark92651

05-07-2018, 10:16 PM

Congratulations! Let the fun begin. Did you see any other cars in the truck? I am hoping mine is in there.

There was a Hot Rod in there in front of mine and a Mk4 body getting delivered to a painter. I think there was one more MK4 behind mine but I didn't get a good look.

Mark Eaton

05-07-2018, 10:19 PM

Right on!

Boydster

05-08-2018, 03:03 AM

Yay!! Inventory! And Congratulations!

Dave Howard

05-08-2018, 06:16 AM

If you look at the photo in my post #30 you can see the material I trimmed in my pan. In testing, it feels and sounds like it is making very minimal contact. I think it is just touching the vertical wall of the area I milled out and then deflecting slightly down it. I don't think it is going to be an issue like it would be if it were deflecting 90 degrees.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/26249212757_4d0094ce82_c.jpg

The original Moroso pans for the Coyotes that came out in 2011/12 didn't have the slot for the dip stick. There were a number of fixes on forums that included shortening the dip stick and re-indexing a new scale on it. Moroso, having great customer service, supplied new a replacement inner horizontal baffle plate with the slot in it for the dip stick. I called them with part number of the pan and they shipped me one free of charge. I didn't need to provide proof of purchase. Now, on newer Coyotes, it appears the dip stick location has shifted slightly. The fix plate for my 2012 Coyote/Moroso worked as designed.

Yama-Bro

05-08-2018, 12:10 PM

Congrats! Let the building commence!

initiator

05-08-2018, 04:02 PM

The original Moroso pans for the Coyotes that came out in 2011/12 didn't have the slot for the dip stick. There were a number of fixes on forums that included shortening the dip stick and re-indexing a new scale on it. Moroso, having great customer service, supplied new a replacement inner horizontal baffle plate with the slot in it for the dip stick. I called them with part number of the pan and they shipped me one free of charge. I didn't need to provide proof of purchase. Now, on newer Coyotes, it appears the dip stick location has shifted slightly. The fix plate for my 2012 Coyote/Moroso worked as designed.

I can confirm that the Moroso pan used with Gen-2 Coyote needs a new hole. Mine looks remarkably like Shark's, unsurprisingly.
85544
85545
85546

Be prepared to spend a long time getting all the metal shavings out.

shark92651

05-13-2018, 12:28 PM

I'm waiting on control arms for the front and rear, toe arms for the rear, and all four shocks - that going to put a damper on the suspension assembly for awhile, but there is plenty to work on.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/907/27214552707_c37ef6796c_c.jpg

I got the body on the buck and the boxes in the garage. I've started inventory, that is going to take awhile.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/954/27178608597_44da4e24c1_c.jpg

I got all the chassis installed panels marked and removed

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/909/28211781688_6293e3e79a_c.jpg

I mocked up the dual stainless breeze roll bars. I've got a welder lined up to come over and tack them and make a couple other welds for me and he wanted some pics.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/959/40277162710_4513e42ea2_c.jpg

I don't want to see any of the brackets for the tank straps in the trunk, so I decided to cut them both off. I'll fabricate a new bracket out of 16 ga steel to weld in at the same height as the DS bracket, and modify the PS strap to fit.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41364943524_3cedd65d50_c.jpg

I got the diff painted with POR-15.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/830/42039490462_fddb96ef3a_c.jpg

I'm also a member of the "yes I have friends, no they weren't available to help" school of roadster assembly. Between my floor jack with homemade trans platform, engine crane, and tie-down straps I was able to get it into place all by myself and all four of the bolts went in with little effort. Woot!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/975/41365183714_019be63012_c.jpg

RodneyArcher

05-13-2018, 12:54 PM

Great progress!

shark92651

05-21-2018, 02:21 PM

I didn't get as much time to work on my kit this weekend as I would have liked, but my back-ordered control arms did come in late Saturday and I received my dropped trunk kit from Russ Thompson.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41343838445_ba69ab4cd4_c.jpg

I cut the ends off of the rear spindles using my angle grinder and a cutting wheel, cleaned up with a flap disc.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/952/41343838135_fb47e872ff_c.jpg

I had a heck of a time swapping out the wheel studs. The FFR recomended method to remove the old studs (grab head of stud in vice, bang out with hammer) worked pretty well but their method to draw in the new studs with a lug nut and washer did not. I got one in with great effort, but about 1/2 way through the 2nd stud the lug nut was getting destroyed, the washers were bending up, etc... So I went to Home Depot and bought a large bolt to use as a punch, ground down the threads on one side, and used a socket in the vice and beat the studs in with a 4lb hammer. It took about a dozen blows to fully seat each stud, but I got them all in.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/981/42198540052_a705f96df8_c.jpg

Here are the completed spindles and hubs. You can see the socket and hammer blows marred the hubs a bit, but I guess it shouldn't cause me to lose too much sleep since they will be hidden.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/42245269311_a511263aff_c.jpg

I also ordered up some stainless bolts and couplers from McMaster Carr for the rear Quick Jacks mod.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/969/42245269121_1f9d906b71_c.jpg

Next I started to install all the IRS control and toe arms. A tip I picked up at the Mott's school was to cut some thin, radial grooves in the end of the bushing with a hack saw in order to help the grease flow across the face of the bushing. I have no idea if this will make a difference, but did it anyway. It seems that it should help.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41343838765_37874c9fc0_c.jpg

It took quite a bit of coaxing with my precision "knockometer" to get the upper and lower control arms in place, but I finally got all the bolts loosely installed. I need to paint my sway bar mounts and get those in place so a few of those bolts will have to come back out, I hope the arms don't move on me. I discovered that FFR sent me 16mm bolts instead of 14mm for mounting the toe arms to the spindles, so I am going to have to wait on new bolts before I can attach the spindles.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/824/41343838175_ebf328d3df_c.jpg

Next I started assembly of my Russ Thompson dropped trunk kit. I need just a little more tweaking of the floor cutout and then can drill out the holes to attach it to the floor. I plan on cutting the diagonals tubes and re-welding them in new locations to help support the box and rear frame. Hopefully I can get these two projects finished up soon and move onto something else.

shark92651

05-25-2018, 10:23 PM

Here are a few more items I worked on since last weekend:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/886/42289744101_45e433bce6_c.jpg

I powder coated the mounting brackets for the rear sway bar. Here they are fresh out of the oven. Didn't turn out too bad but I see a bit of "orange peel", I think I put too much powder on it, but not bad for first attempt.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/28482467398_61c79c7abe_c.jpg

I mounted my rear spindles. Here you can see the bracket I made out of 1/8" aluminum to cover the ABS sensor hole. The hole for the 6mm bolt was not threaded so I had to tap it.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/42307467802_f34a493e1f_c.jpg

I got the rear brakes properly shimmed and torqued. You can see that my sway bar still isn't mounted to the spindles. I took the rod ends to a local machine shop to have them cut down to size and still waiting to get them back. I didn't want to tackle that with my Dremel or sawzall. I went to Auto Zone and used their "Loan A Tool" program to get the 36mm socket to tighten the axle nut. The specs in the instructions said to torque it to 98 ft lbs "+45 degree". I could not get it to budge past 98 ft lbs even when using a breaker bar against the wheel studs to stop the hub from turning, so there is no "+45 degrees" for me. Did anyone else have an issue with this? Is it anything to worry about?

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/877/42307456862_ac9478e40d_c.jpg

Next I made a bracket to mount my triple reservoir. I used a piece of 2.5" angle aluminum I bought from onlinemetals.com and cut it down on the bandsaw at work. I attached it to the rail using 3 10-32 rivnuts on the top rail and fasten it with 1" socket head bolts from underneath and it is pretty flush on top. I positioned it so that the front of the reservoir is only 9.5" from the DS foot box (thanks for the specs Paul!). I went with the triple reservoirs from JAMAR. It's a bit more money than the CNC but I really like the look of it and, quite frankly, wanted to do something a little different.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/885/28482463108_a2d47e11b0_c.jpg

Here is a better look at the bracket and it's location after powder coating. With this long Memorial Day weekend coming up I am looking forward to getting some quality build hours in.

boat737

05-26-2018, 12:17 AM

shark92651

05-26-2018, 06:47 AM

On your rivet-nuts, they are designed to have compression on the flange side. I'm not really sure, but with the machine screws coming in from the back side of the rivet-nut, it may de-compress the rivet-nut and loosen up. Something to check out. Otherwise, nice clean build. Good job.

Yeah that might be a concern, although with three rivnuts holding this small amount of weight I don't think if it would be an issue. I'll keep an eye on it and if it does loosen, I'll just drill them out and use countersunk flat heads with nuts on the bottom.

boat737

05-26-2018, 08:26 AM

Yeah that might be a concern, although with three rivnuts holding this small amount of weight I don't think if it would be an issue. I'll keep an eye on it and if it does loosen, I'll just drill them out and use countersunk flat heads with nuts on the bottom.

I have also had a couple spots where I did use the back side of the riv-nut, and what I did was use a longer machine screw and run a ny-lock nut down on it from the flange side. In my case it worked, but it would obviously defeat the purpose on yours. Rather than a flat head screw, you might be able to get away with button-head screws from the top. Just a thought.

Straversi

05-26-2018, 08:54 AM

Your build is coming along nicely. I like those reservoirs.
Regarding the +45 degrees on the axle nut; that’s a significant amount of torque. I’d give it another try and get that torqued correctly. I think I used the same method you described. Have someone give you a hand. You’ll sleep better knowing that assembly is correct.
-Steve.

edwardb

05-26-2018, 08:07 PM

You can see that my sway bar still isn't mounted to the spindles. I took the rod ends to a local machine shop to have them cut down to size and still waiting to get them back. I didn't want to tackle that with my Dremel or sawzall.

A little late, but sometimes putting the power tools aside can be easier. I've cut two sets of them with a hack saw in a bench vise. Takes some elbow grease, but really not that bad. Touched them up on the disk sander when done.

I went to Auto Zone and used their "Loan A Tool" program to get the 36mm socket to tighten the axle nut. The specs in the instructions said to torque it to 98 ft lbs "+45 degree". I could not get it to budge past 98 ft lbs even when using a breaker bar against the wheel studs to stop the hub from turning, so there is no "+45 degrees" for me. Did anyone else have an issue with this? Is it anything to worry about?

Yes, worry about it. :o You need to get them tightened as spec'd. I tried something similar to what you're describing without much luck either. Waited until the wheels/tires were on and sitting on the ground, the drive train installed and in gear, and the e-brake set. With all that, it was rock solid and I could put my weight on the bar to tighten. Achieved the 45 degrees without too much trouble.

shark92651

05-27-2018, 11:46 AM

Yes, worry about it. :o You need to get them tightened as spec'd. I tried something similar to what you're describing without much luck either. Waited until the wheels/tires were on and sitting on the ground, the drive train installed and in gear, and the e-brake set. With all that, it was rock solid and I could put my weight on the bar to tighten. Achieved the 45 degrees without too much trouble.

That makes a lot of sense. I'll revisit the +45 when it's on the ground.

shark92651

05-27-2018, 12:01 PM

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/42389627721_081bd2c785_c.jpg

I've got most of my pre-weld fabrication complete. This is how I plan to reinforce the trunk area after cutting the diagonals. When I cut the diagonals I intentionally left the tube "stubs" so they will extend under and support the lip of the trunk box on two sides, and the new support tube on the right will provide quite a bit of rigidity as well. I also plan to run one more tube below the trunk box on the left but need to get the tank into place and check clearance and determine the best placement. You can also see the new tank strap bracket I fabricated out of 1" x 1/8" steel bar stock. Gotta get my welder friend out here soon, hopefully next weekend to get all these welded up.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/41665968794_478034ba55_c.jpg

I have the trunk aluminum nearly complete - just need to fab a cover to go over the old tank strap locations. I ended up using rivnuts to make the access panels removable.

shark92651

05-28-2018, 07:22 PM

I'm still waiting to get my F-Panels back from powder coat but I decided to go ahead and start on the front end. I just snugged up the bolts that mount the upper control arms to the frame and I figure I can just remove those bolts and pivot the entire assembly away from the frame in order to rivet in my F-Panels when I get them back. Both of my upper control arms were installed incorrectly so I had to unscrew and swap them around. I guess it's too much to ask whoever assembles these to take an extra 2 seconds to make sure they do it correctly :rolleyes: I guess I was lucky on my ball joints though, both screwed all the way in to the shoulder by hand. I loc-tited those and tightened then down with a 24" adjustable wrench I got at Harbor Freight this morning for a mere $22.50 with my 25% off coupon! That is one big hulking wrench. I figure I can use it to crush zombie skulls during the apocalypse.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/40612071860_311ae368f5_c.jpg

I posted photos of front and rear of both sides. Let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary. Still waiting on all four back-ordered shocks.

DS Front

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/42419770281_2d741f9f17_c.jpg

DS Rear

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/28546585468_0de19f0d48_c.jpg

PS Front

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/28546588328_006e3ea8ff_c.jpg

PS Rear

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/27549708157_fab588ac85_c.jpg

As I was installed the second rotor I noticed a directional arrow on the rotor and it was pointing in the wrong direction! I quickly removed the calipers on the other side and swapped the rotors before the loc-tite had time to set. I then wondered if I got the rears on wrong as well. I figured I had a 50% chance of getting it right.

Well crap! I guess I'm removing loc-tited bolts on both sides on the rear and swapping them as well. Awesome...

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/28546575078_dd2599bf99_c.jpg

Mark Eaton

05-28-2018, 07:46 PM

Oh don't worry about backing out those bolts with red loctite. I specialize in that.

RodneyArcher

05-28-2018, 11:53 PM

Are you going to run ABS?

Jeff Kleiner

05-29-2018, 05:10 AM

Looking good and you're making great progress :)

...Both of my upper control arms were installed incorrectly so I had to unscrew and swap them around. I guess it's too much to ask whoever assembles these to take an extra 2 seconds to make sure they do it correctly :rolleyes:...

Just FYI, the arms are an off the shelf item from SPC and are not FFR specific; what is deemed "incorrect" for our use is correct for other applications. It is up to the end user to assure that they are in the correct configuration for the vehicle.

Jeff

edwardb

05-29-2018, 06:23 AM

I posted photos of front and rear of both sides. Let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary.

Nice progress. Good catch on the directional rotors. Better now than later. One somewhat minor suggestion. Those bolts on the UCA ball joint mounting plates -- flip them over. Always good build practice to have the nut on the bottom and the bolt on the top. If in the unforeseen chance the nut loosens and falls off, the bolt has a chance to stay in place.

shark92651

05-29-2018, 06:47 AM

Are you going to run ABS?

No, not doing ABS.

Looking good and you're making great progress :)
Just FYI, the arms are an off the shelf item from SPC and are not FFR specific; what is deemed "incorrect" for our use is correct for other applications. It is up to the end user to assure that they are in the correct configuration for the vehicle.

Jeff

OK did not know that. I did take note that on the roadster the spindle marked DSS goes on the PSS and PSS goes on the DSS prior to assembly ;)

Nice progress. Good catch on the directional rotors. Better now than later. One somewhat minor suggestion. Those bolts on the UCA ball joint mounting plates -- flip them over. Always good build practice to have the nut on the bottom and the bolt on the top. If in the unforeseen chance the nut loosens and falls off, the bolt has a chance to stay in place.

That's good advice, I will flip them over, thanks.

RodneyArcher

05-29-2018, 09:41 AM

Since your not doing ABS have you thought about pulling the tone rings off?

shark92651

05-29-2018, 10:17 AM

Since your not doing ABS have you thought about pulling the tone rings off?

I didn't even think about that. Now that it's all assembled not sure I want to take it apart again :confused:

RodneyArcher

05-29-2018, 11:18 AM

shark92651

05-30-2018, 06:36 AM

I started work on the steering last night. When you buy power steering from FFR they are supplying the KRC system now, which is nice. Other than the steering rack, it's all just loosely mocked up right now. My tie rods and upper steering shaft are on back-order so can only get so far right now

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/41542927505_40fb485d17_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/27574904877_11bb6e54c2_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/42445293151_8835ff6c71_c.jpg

Unlike the photos in the instructions, this input shaft does not have any flats on it. Do I just tighten the set screw down onto the lower splines or is it supposed to land in the area between the two bands of splines?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/42445296761_8ed75c4f3a_c.jpg

This is where the shaft enters the footbox. Does this look correct? I know this has to come back out to install my front footbox aluminum, which I should be getting back from powder coat tomorrow morning.

Higgybulin

05-30-2018, 06:47 AM

On the steering rack, in the valley between the splines. The flats are usually just on the steering shaft.
Higgy

sbhunter

06-01-2018, 11:55 AM

2 things from your recent posts. When I tried to tighten my steering shaft down onto the splines the allen screw kept pushing the shaft up off the lower set of splines. I ended up grinding a small flat onto the lower set of splines for the set screw to bite into so the shaft would be fully seated. This lowered the whole shaft into the firewall bearing a little. I am currently working on the KRC kit that FFR is selling. They did not supply the fittings that thread into the rack and convert to AN for the braided lines that they sent. I had to source them from a local supplier.

shark92651

06-01-2018, 04:18 PM

shark92651

06-02-2018, 04:52 PM

I found an awesome welder through Facebook of all places, and he lives only a mile from my house! Shout out to Matt from Warrior Welding. He came over on Friday and welded up all my new tank supports and my new PS tank strap.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/27631034277_c0968a4987_c.jpg

Here are the new trunk supports after welding.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/28629295908_38c38cde3e_c.jpg

And this is what they look like after painting. I used a gloss black appliance rattle can and it matches fairly well.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/28648982158_f3a8cf57bc_c.jpg

Because I lowered the position of the PS tank strap bracket, I had to modify the PS tank strap. I just drilled out the spot welds on the back end, flattened it out with a hammer on my vice, and then bent it around a bolt in the vice at the appropriate position. I just kept comparing it to that end of the DS strap until it looked right. I cut off the excess on the end and had my friend weld the ends back together. Touched it up with the rattle can.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/42470783712_70ea54a04b_c.jpg

Here is a close up of the PS tank strap area after installation of the tank.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/42522293391_8d02ce8649_c.jpg

Speaking of the fuel tank, I went ahead and installed that. I have an M-Pro racing hanger which was kind of a pain to install. I had to cut a small notch in the opening to allow clearance of the longer return line, but I got it in there and managed to not get any trash in the tank.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/42470945482_199e6ce322_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/41800070204_19c7fbed0a_c.jpg

And finally here is my completely fabbed trunk with drop box and block-off plate I made to cover the old tank strap cut outs.

sbhunter

06-02-2018, 06:46 PM

I have to correct my earlier response. FFR does supply the rack to AN adaptors with their complete KRC kit so it is a true complete setup. I just didn’t have them.

shark92651

06-03-2018, 09:39 PM

I was at Home Depot this afternoon picking up some parts to add some drip lines to my irrigation system when something caught my eye and I got an idea. I decided I can make a decent gasoline vapor filter for the vent line using a replacement popup body. They even have a 1/2" barb fitting that is perfect for attaching to the vent line. Total investment was under $3 (excluding the filter carbon).

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/42492247222_d6db1260e1_c.jpg

Here are the parts I picked up. There is no popup component since it's just a replacement body, but there is a spring and an inner tube that pulls right out.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/27673790807_4b82e4bd51_c.jpg

I decided to cut out this inner sleeve using a 1 1/4" hole saw to give a bit more volume inside for carbon and to make it easy to place a piece of Scotch Brite pad in the cover.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/40735685250_41df661df4_c.jpg

Here is the finished product after I cut and placed a piece of Scotch Brite pad into each end and filled it with carbon pellets. It has a 1 1/4" diameter and is about 5 1/4" long. It probably doesn't have as much volume as some of the other solutions I've seen, but it's very cheap and it has a nice screw on cap and fitting so will be easy to change out the carbon if I ever need to. Now I just need to find a good location and clever way to mount it.

shark92651

06-05-2018, 09:07 AM

Last night I completed the E-Brake mod to route the cables over the 4" tube rather than under. I pretty much just followed in the footsteps of EdwardB with this one, using the exact same parts and cutting of the Lokar clevis as he described. It works well. Props to EdwardB for this one ;)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/28708931398_6b4fd6ee7d_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/27714456647_44138daec8_c.jpg

stevant

06-07-2018, 10:09 AM

Another mistake I made was not paying attention to the steering arms close enough. I made sure they were pointed in the right direction but didn't notice the direction of the tapered hole. 50-50 shot and I missed, everything back off and on again.

I just checked mine....you had me thinking. If I'm not mistaken though it barely goes on the opposite way. The steering arm does not slip over the tie-rod end when inverted. I was nervous for a second!!! Lol.....

shark92651

06-08-2018, 09:49 AM

I started to mock up the steering shaft and I had a heck of a time getting it on. At first I tried to put the bearing that goes on the front of the footbox on the inside, but because of the bracket for the pedal box, it won't sit flush.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/42673012561_a4684124a9_c.jpg

When I tried to put it on the outside of the pedelbox, there was so little clearance between that U-Joint and the bearing that I could barely get the other end of the shaft onto the steering rack. I mean the only way I could get it on was to rotate the shaft a bit so that the flats were at 12 and 6 o'clock and then I could barely get it to go in. I fear that once I have the aluminum panel on the front of the footbox that I won't be able to get it in at all. I mean it is already so tight that it seems like 1mm would make a world of difference. Anybody else run into this or am I doing something wrong? My first thought was to mark where the interference is on the pedal box bracket and cut that bit of metal off of it so I could put the bearing on the inside, but that seems a bit extreme.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/42673017341_963b819543_c.jpg

stevant

06-08-2018, 10:08 AM

You can grind/sand down the top of the bracket flat so it fits. I put mine on the inside and flattened out the top so it fits flush.

86915

shark92651

06-08-2018, 10:37 AM

You can grind/sand down the top of the bracket flat so it fits. I put mine on the inside and flattened out the top so it fits flush.

86915

Thanks. I think that is probably the best fix. It will be a lot easier to cut the top of the thinner bearing bracket rather than pull out and cut the pedal box bracket.

stevant

06-08-2018, 10:50 AM

Yep........

edwardb

06-08-2018, 11:02 AM

Common problem. I've put it on the inside on the last two builds and heard from lots of others who did the same. Also the only way it would fit. Grind or sand a flat along the edge of the bearing shell so it clears and you're good to go.

Boydster

06-08-2018, 03:01 PM

Yep. x3. Grind it and slap it in.

shark92651

06-10-2018, 09:45 PM

I worked on a few different tasks this weekend.

I put together my flexible fuel lines and got my regulator installed. I am going with the LS style fixed regulator and I installed it close to the fuel tank. I am using stainless braided PTFE hose and mostly Quick Detach fittings from Racetronix. The price was pretty good on these fittings and I like the idea of a single fitting instead of QD to AN fittings. The fittings to the M-Pro hanger are AN, also from Racetronix. I am going to run a single Nicopp 3/8" line to the front for the engine.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/28823567698_1d5d773001_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/41797960485_debe89d086_c.jpg

I also installed the new pulley and power steering pump w/reservoir on the front of the Coyote.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/28823601328_c58b2ff3c8_c.jpg

Next up is the radiator. I installed the Breeze fan shroud and mounted the radiator with the Breeze lower radiator mount. I'm going to pull it back out and send the fan shroud out to be powder-coated with my next batch of panels.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/42713629221_ff4981b340_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/41825434515_14de4e4e22_c.jpg

I installed my flexible brake lines front and rear. I guess my next major project is going to be to run the hard lines for brakes and fuel. Another job I have never done before, but I'm looking forward to it.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/42007265924_32bdb76a09_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/42725072211_4350bf2783_c.jpg

stevant

06-10-2018, 10:48 PM

Nice progress Shark!

shark92651

06-13-2018, 08:31 AM

The Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing requires a clutch stop to prevent excessive movement beyond what is required to release the pressure plate from the friction plate, only 1/4" of additional movement of clutch pedal once released. I came up with a design for a clutch stop and will mount it on the underside of the top pedal box bracket in the general area where the FFR supplied clutch stop is located. It did require an additional hole drilled into the bracket so glad I did this now before I plumb everything, because I had to pull it all out in order to get to the area I need to drill. Here is what I came up with. I angled the bracket so that the clutch stop engages with the pedal at a roughly 90 degree angle. The adjustable bolt with plastic cap actually came off a hinge door stop from Home Depot. I had my friend come over to do some more welding for me at lunch yesterday to put the two pieces together.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/900/42057064954_9e7d475b25_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/27905454167_bd5d8e218d_c.jpg

I also had him weld up my dual stainless roll bars from Breeze. I think they turned out pretty nice. I hope the discoloration around the weld will polish out when I have the bars polished, but I really don't have any experience with this so don't know. I also drilled holes in the short stub tubes for the hoops and had my friend plug-weld those to the MK4 chassis stub tubes so I have one less set of holes to drill and through-bolt. The DS rear leg snugged up really well with the hoop but the PS was a bit off, by about 1/2". I had to make one cut in the stub tube to bend it a bit to get perfect alignment. I will have my friend weld up that cut when I am closer to mounting the body. I greased up the stub tubes and inside of the roll bars pretty well before I tapped them into place and he welded them right on the vehicle so there should have been very little movement. Hopefully they will pull off fairly easily.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/42764208791_4c7bc4a059_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/42045866044_b928ee1f00_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/27894888237_612b8b5ab8_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/27905631397_18065945e5_c.jpg

DavidW

06-14-2018, 09:19 AM

With the angle of the roll bar if you weld them in place can they be removed, I thought they would be welded after the body was on.

shark92651

06-14-2018, 04:31 PM

The stub tubes for the front hoop are welded in place, which basically takes the place of one set of through-bolts. The roll bars are removable because the rear stub tube can be pushed up inside the rear leg, then you are basically just pulling the hoop off the stub tubes. For final installation, the outer hoop and rear leg are through-bolted to the stub tubes.

Higgybulin

06-14-2018, 05:01 PM

Nice welds!! Should polish up no problem!!
Higgy

shark92651

06-14-2018, 10:21 PM

I powder coated my clutch stop and installed it. It works pretty well. Currently I have it adjusted to stop the clutch just before contact with the frame tube.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/40995959540_a44407e3e3_c.jpg

With a little bit of modification I was able to get the Coyote bottom travel clutch switch working with my hydraulic clutch setup using the brackets that FFR supplies. I took the switch contact bracket for the cable clutch and trimmed it down a bit and then I drilled and tapped the clevis on the end of the clutch pedal so that I could attach the bracket to the clevis with a single 6-32 bolt. I was able to attach it with the existing pin and snap rings.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/27937438127_edf1594b44_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/41906015385_72dbf50d93_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/900/42089040944_eef7d65fd1_c.jpg

Straversi

06-15-2018, 09:46 AM

Clever solution to the switch for the hydraulic clutch. Good work.

I also like the new power steering pump with integral reservoir from FFR. Nice to see how FFR keeps upgrading features.
-Steve

shark92651

06-18-2018, 09:22 PM

I spent most of this weekend marking, drilling, and placing aluminum panels. This is a lot of work but I have most of it behind me at this point. I am going to pull these off and send most of them to the powder coater this week. While not very exciting, here are some pics:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/28995097228_76f283f337_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/41057012960_83327d3ff2_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/42867312861_7346ff1fb0_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/29017014158_75730b4d7f_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1809/41057002520_0b868cd650_c.jpg

Higgybulin

06-19-2018, 05:52 AM

Great progress! Hope you have an air riveter!!
Higgy

shark92651

06-19-2018, 07:21 AM

Great progress! Hope you have an air riveter!!
Higgy

I do. That tool is awesome.

shark92651

06-19-2018, 07:24 AM

What is the best way to seal up gaps in the panels, like the area around the round tube in this photo?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/41057012960_83327d3ff2_c.jpg

Higgybulin

06-19-2018, 08:12 AM

Most guys cut a patch to cover the hole and get a close fit around the tubing. Finish it off with seam sealer. I did see a pic of someone's, I'm sure it'll get posted here.

Yama-Bro

06-19-2018, 01:11 PM

Looks good. The panels are coming up as one of my next steps.

shark92651

06-25-2018, 08:12 AM

Well my back-ordered shocks finally arrived and I got them assembled and installed, and attached my front sway bar. I wanted to get it on the ground so that I could tighten up the axle nuts and the drive shaft adapter, so I re-installed the e-brake. For some reason I had a heck of a time getting the e-brake re-installed. I ended up removing the cables from the calipers in order to get enough slack to reattach everything.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1794/42098153535_2e83de0c63_c.jpg

One quick note that may be useful to someone: I had to cut the corners off of my front sway bar brackets in order to get them to seat flat - there was contact with a weld that was bending them.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1811/41164733270_534e5185c9_c.jpg

Rear Shocks

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1840/42256083014_41295fa19d_c.jpg

Front Shocks

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/42073167855_7f711339dc_c.jpg

On the ground

The alignment is so bad right now. I know it's not really worth trying to align it at this point but once the motor/trans is in place I think I will try to do a rough alignment before the first go cart. I really would like to minimize damage to my new tires. I have the 18" Halibrands with BFGoodrich Rival S tires. Front: 245/40ZR18 Rear: 315/30ZR18

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1780/42999391501_465cb1b0f6_c.jpg

Here is a shot looking down at the front-left tire with the steering almost all the way to the left. If I turn it a bit more the tire will rub the F-Panel. Also note the contact with the flex brake line. These Wilwood brake fittings are a 45 degree and right now they are angled towards the tire. Should I re-seat these and angle them more towards the hubs or vertically? Also I guess I can re-attach the flex lines and have them more bowed in towards the shocks. Any other suggestions? Also, how can I prevent contact with the F-Panels?

shark92651

06-25-2018, 08:43 AM

Hopefully I will get my panels back this weekend and I can run the hard lines, but in the meantime I can still find things to work on. I decided to make a support for the firewall as I have seen others do. I fabricated this with some of the aluminum that I cut out for my trunk box. I left plenty of room above and below to run wires, but also cut a hole in the middle. I know that I need better hole saws, especially before I cut holes in my dash. The hole saw I used left a burr all the way around the hole so I knocked it down with a flap disc. Should I just buy decent brand bi-metal hole saws for the sizes I need or is there a better suggestion?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1766/42256101474_a6a4e30664_c.jpg

Brace installed

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/29127362768_4ab8b517be_c.jpg

I installed the Breeze battery box. I ordered some Steel Gray Pearl powder to match what my powder coater is using on my panels and I coated this box myself. It was tricky getting it into my small oven without smearing the powder, but I managed. It did not turn out nearly as good as some of the other pieces I did in black, maybe it's the powder or the size/shape of the part. Oh well, it is going to be pretty much hidden down there so who cares?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/41189238440_2aa4919838_c.jpg

I installed my Optima yellow top and soldered/attached my ground cable. Not much more I can do with this until I start to run the harness(es). I am not really looking forward to that part of the build :(

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/42999380801_2bc0896aaa_c.jpg

With the battery installed I wanted to make something light up so I pulled out all the tail lights/turn signals and I went ahead and swapped out the bulbs for the LEDs that I purchased. It was a simple process to swap them out and they do appear to be a bit brighter than the incandescent bulbs. If anyone is interested I purchased the iBrightstar 1157 bulbs on Amazon in Brilliant Red and Amber Yellow.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/41189684840_0951fff124_c.jpg

This is the LED headlight that I chose - it is a United Pacific 31391 in chrome. It has good reviews in an LED headlight comparison review that I read and I like that it has retro styling and won't make my car look like a cyborg ;).

cv2065

06-25-2018, 09:08 PM

shark92651

06-25-2018, 10:54 PM

Everything looks great on this end. I'm envious at where you are with your build! Might want to get a grommet for that support hole. How's the oven/powder coating thing working out? Are there enough small pieces to warrant the $100 spend?

I plan to put a grommet on the hole. I'm glad I bought the powder coat setup. It's nice being able to do a part myself at any time. So far I've coated the trunk hinges, reservoir bracket, all the e-brake parts, e-brake cable brackets for calipers, motor mount spacers, trans bracket, pedal box brackets, flex brake line brackets, battery box and braces, and my clutch stop. I still have to do the hood hinges. Im pretty sure I've got my investment back already.

cv2065

06-26-2018, 07:36 AM

I plan to put a grommet on the hole. I'm glad I bought the powder coat setup. It's nice being able to do a part myself at any time. So far I've coated the trunk hinges, reservoir bracket, all the e-brake parts, e-brake cable brackets for calipers, motor mount spacers, trans bracket, pedal box brackets, flex brake line brackets, battery box and braces, and my clutch stop. I still have to do the hood hinges. Im pretty sure I've got my investment back already.

Thanks for that list. Sounds worthwhile. I've got my eye on a $35 oven...

shark92651

06-29-2018, 10:24 AM

I'm kind of at the mercy of the powder coater at this point. They promised me my panels would be done by today but I'm not holding my breath. It may be next weekend before I can get some significant work done. In the meantime I found a few things to work on. I went ahead and did the door latch mods that everyone agrees are essential. I won't go into too much detail as this mod is already well documented, but I bought a couple 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts and cut them down to 3/4" and ground down the heads so they are flat. I knocked down the top lip of the insert with a flap disk so that my washer and nut will hold the lever, and I added lithium grease to all the moving parts. It's way smoother now. I also drilled/tapped the knobs for my 10-32 stainless Torx bolts and filed down the lever stop a bit to allow the striker to fully retract. One less thing to worry about.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/41278511200_bc3598a353_c.jpg

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shark92651

06-29-2018, 10:46 AM

I wasn't really that impressed with the FFR suggested way to graft the supplied pedal onto the Coyote accelerator pedal arm so I thought I could do better, although for a bit more work and expense. I figure if this doesn't work I can always buy the Lokar unit, but I'm pretty sure this is going to work pretty well. I heard that someone removed the pedal pad and just spun it upside down and re-inserted it into the existing hole, but I didn't think that would work too well. For one I feel like the pedal ends up too close to the inside footbox wall and I really didn't like the look of an upside down pedal. I had a thought that I could basically buy a piece of 3/16" x 2" aluminum bar and make a new backing plate that basically replaces the wide plastic piece at the bottom of the pedal. With that in place, I would have a lot of flexibility to bolt it to a cut down pedal arm by drilling and tapping the plate for bolts and pieces of aluminum angle that I can through-bolt onto the pedal arm once I find the optimal position. This is my plan and I think it is going to work fine, but I won't do the final fitment until I get my footbox floor and lower-inside wall in place. Here is what I did so far:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/918/41278469240_137c0b3e00_c.jpg

I removed the pedal pad and traced the shape of the existing plastic backer and hole location onto a piece of paper, then transferred that to a piece of 3/16" x 2" aluminum bar.

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After a good bit of cutting and grinding, I had a backer that could slip down inside the bottom of the pedal pad. I cut down the plastic shaft and secured it with the original tapper screw after cutting it to length.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/838/42371170754_e02d3ebba0_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1785/42371179334_92240aa955_c.jpg

At that point I mounted the accelerator to the bracket and held the pad up to where I felt it would be best and marked the pedal arm. I cut off the excess pieces of the pedal arm to where I can mount the pedal pad. It took removing/remounting the pedal and testing a few times before I got enough plastic cut out. I may have to cut a bit more when it comes time to permanently mount the pedal pad but it's pretty close right now.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/42185095185_cab808130e_c.jpg

And this is about what I will end up with. It's just held in place with some duct tape right now, but I think it will work out just fine. Once I get it secured permanently I will take a few pics detailing how I mounted the pad to the pedal arm.

Straversi

06-29-2018, 11:12 AM

Nice work.
-Steve

shark92651

06-30-2018, 07:03 PM

I got my panels back from the powder coater late Friday afternoon. I'm happy that they got them done as promised so I could get on with the build. This powder color is Steel Gray Pearlescent from Cardinal Paint. I got the PS footbox and floor installed along with the DS footbox floor, front, and inside bottom wall. I don't think I should install any more panels at this time as I want access to run my hard lines and wiring. What do you think, should I stop here for now or are there some others that I could safely rivet in place now without interfering with access for the rest of the build?

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Straversi

06-30-2018, 08:25 PM

I’d leave the panels loose or just cleco’d for as long as possible. Run your wiring harnesses, finish as much as you can before you make those permanent. Once everything is riveted you have to crawl under instead of reaching through. Looking good.
-Steve

shark92651

07-01-2018, 11:47 PM

This is how I attached the coyote pedal after cutting it down. I drilled/tapped the aluminum backer plate and bolted a 10-32 1/2" bolt through what was left of the plastic flange on the bottom and then cut down two aluminum angle pieces and drilled/tapped the backer to hold those on either side of the pedal at the top. I then drilled through both angle pieces and the pedal arm and through-bolted with a 10-32 1-1/4" bolt and nylon lock nut. I then powder coated all the pieces and mounted into the footbox hopefully for the last time. I ended up with about 1-1/2" of clearance from the pedal to the inside footbox wall. I am pleased with how it turned out.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/43143741691_7c35275c4c_c.jpg

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shark92651

07-03-2018, 08:58 AM

I went ahead and powder coated all the hood hinge parts and also the quick jacks. I think I am mostly done powder coating small parts but I'm sure I'll find something else I forgot to do and have to drag it all out again. I assembled the hood hinges and installed loosely on the car so that I can check clearance as I mock up the rest of the engine compartment.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/43166694781_742935d8d7_c.jpg

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shark92651

07-04-2018, 01:54 PM

This morning I ran my 3/8" Nicopp fuel line. It also came with a Stainless coil spring for extra protection. I attached the line with 1/2" rubber cushioned clamps along the spring and 3/8" on the line, secured with 3/16" rivets. This was my first time bending and flaring and I am happy with the results. I borrowed the Eastwood flaring tool from a friend and a line straighter from another and it made the job super easy, even for first time. The Nicopp is flexible enough that I could do final bending and by hand at the ends. I hope to get the brake lines done by this weekend.

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shark92651

07-04-2018, 02:01 PM

I mounted my rainbird popup sprinkler head charcoal filter to the DS above the rear shock. I used a 1 1/4" conduit clamp that I went ahead and powder coated black with my last batch of parts that I coated. I attached the conduit clamp and the cushioned clamp on the hose with Rivnuts that are in the 3/4" tube behind the aluminum piece. I secured the line under the trunk with a couple more 3/4" clamps secured with 3/16" rivets. Hopefully by running the line all the way to the DS and up high it will prevent any fuel from sloshing out.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/838/41387690290_7bcd29b642_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1808/43198363701_50f24e3009_c.jpg

Dave Howard

07-05-2018, 07:04 AM

stevant

07-05-2018, 07:28 AM

Hey Shark.....I noticed on your fuel lines you flared your lines to adapt to your AN fittings. I went with the compression fitting instead for the gas lines at that point. Anyone see a downside to that?

88383

shark92651

07-05-2018, 07:31 AM

Great job. The build is so much fun.

One comment...I was looking at the picture of the hood hinge power coating. I dd the same. If you are planning on driving the car and you might get caught in wet weather, consider changing the socket head bolts for stainless steel. The hardware from FFR is NOT corrosion resistant and will start to rust and look unsightly within your first driving season.

Good to know, thanks for the advice

Hey Shark.....I noticed on your fuel lines you flared your lines to adapt to your AN fittings. I went with the compression fitting instead for the gas lines at that point. Anyone see a downside to that?

88383

I don't have any experience personally, hopefully someone else will chime in. I am using an inverted flare to AN union on each end of the hard line connected to flex lines with AN-6 on one end and Quick Connect on the other.

stevant

07-05-2018, 08:02 AM

Hey Shark.......I'm not familiar with the Coyote setup but you don't need a fuel return line in your situation? What kind of fuel pump are you running?

Do you still have to run that line?

shark92651

07-05-2018, 08:49 AM

Hey Shark.......I'm not familiar with the Coyote setup but you don't need a fuel return line in your situation? What kind of fuel pump are you running?

Do you still have to run that line?

It is a return system, but I am running the LS style fixed fuel regulator, you can see it in the photo below. You can mount it near the tank so that it has a very short return line. The Coyote wants 55 psi and this regulator is fixed at 58 psi. From everything I have read it works just fine, is inexpensive, and also contains a 5 micron fuel filter so it makes for a simple install. I picked this one up at Summit for $38.00. I am running a 255 lph Walbro fuel pump in the M-Pro racing hanger with 3/8" lines. I hope it all works out fine :eek:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/28823567698_1d5d773001_c.jpg

stevant

07-05-2018, 08:56 AM

Learn something new every day!!! Nice..........

So the fuel will loop within that short run and the regulator will feed the psi needed, smart!!

shark92651

07-08-2018, 11:51 AM

I got my triple reservoir and hoses mounted in their final location. I wanted to run the three hoses through rubber grommets in the block-off plate for the clutch cable hole in the front of the pedal box. I found that the hole was not quite big enough so I needed to open it up. This was not the best time to be cutting a hole since I had already mounted my front pedal box aluminum. I ended up using a scrap piece of aluminum and cleco'ed it behind the opening to provide material for the pilot hole of the 2" hole saw. It was a bit hairy but I managed to get the hole cut out and looking fairly neat.

You can see the scrap aluminum for the pilot that I cleco'ed behind the hole above the pedal box bracket. You can see some scratches where I just held up the hole saw and attempted to cut without the pilot hole material - yeah, that was not going to work.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/43226816412_103cfb0c14_c.jpg

Here is the rough hole before I cleaned it up, filed it smooth, and painted the edge with some rattle can black.

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Here is the finished product with the block-off plate, grommets, and hoses in place.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/43279687421_08f2a4e499_c.jpg

shark92651

07-08-2018, 12:05 PM

I spent probably 10 hrs total running my brake lines. I have to say this is probably my least favorite part of the build so far. I had to redo about 3 lines in the process but overall I am pleased with how it turned out. Luckily I was using Nicopp lines and borrowed an Eastwood flaring tool from a buddy or else it would have been a lot harder. I've got nothing but respect for you guys that can do this in stainless! I decided to just stick with the provided insulated clips and rivets to secure the lines - I just didn't see much ROI for buying anything fancier or tapping the holes for bolts. I did end up having to buy some slightly larger cushioned clamps to go over the stainless spring armor that runs over the tubing along the bottom of the 4" rails.

For my front brake routing I decided to come over and down along the 3/4" tube that comes out the front of the pedal box.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/924/28410446177_195c6f8350_c.jpg

Here is the line coming up and over and running down the top of the 3/4" tube to the LF brake. You can see I put a rubber grommet on the line before I flared it. I intend to notch the top of the block-off plate that covers the slot there and slide the grommet in.

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Here is the Tee fitting at the LF brake.

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Down the X-brace as others have done.

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And the connection to the RF brake.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1787/29369681108_fb1d76bd60_c.jpg

shark92651

07-08-2018, 12:10 PM

For the rear brakes I came over and down behind the bracket for the accelerator pedal.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/927/43279712271_18ce64a7f7_c.jpg

I used a single union on the run to the rear, up behind the accelerator bracket. I decided on this location so that I could run the stainless coil spring the full length along the 4" rail. I racked my brain trying to figure out how to do this in a single run. I punted - I was ready for this job to be over. Again, nothing but respect for those of you that do this in a single run.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/838/42561358864_6e98b04d6a_c.jpg

Coming out the bottom of the footbox. You can see I used another rubber grommet to fill the 7/16" hole I had to drill to fit the tube nut.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/925/43279730981_c103f24de6_c.jpg

Running along the 4" rail. I had to buy some 5/16" cushioned clamps to fit over the stainless spring armor. I'm not sure if the stainless spring is necessary, but it came with the Nicopp line so I was going to use it. More protection for the lines running along the bottom of the rail is a good thing, IMO.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1825/43230897042_43cedae879_c.jpg

Coming up the 2x3 tube.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1823/41470089200_e5b2576b30_c.jpg

The rear Tee near the LR brake

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And finally the connection to the RR brake.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/923/43279747441_6bcc8d5f4e_c.jpg

I'm glad that is done. I'm going to fill and bleed the system this afternoon and check for leaks.

JoeAIII

07-09-2018, 07:44 AM

Thank you for the detailed deacription and pictures of your brake lines. Even some of the most detailed posts tend to mention replicating something someone had done, but seem light on pictures and details, particuarly in the footbox.

Dave Howard

07-09-2018, 10:04 AM

Very quickly, another shout out regarding swopping hardware for stainless steel. The black finish socket cap screws holding the pedal box on the front of the driver foot box will be rusted within a season if you get caught in weather. Stainless steel replacements are dirt cheap at a fastener supplier. Its easy to change them out now while the body is off and the footbox still open.

shark92651

07-09-2018, 11:52 AM

I got the brakes filled and bled yesterday afternoon. I had my son come over and do the "pump and hold" while I went around working the bleeders with some 1/4" vinyl tubing and a jar. Being my first time it took about an hour before we got them all bled and used about 1 1/2" bottles of brake fluid. The fronts bled pretty easily but couldn't get the rear brake to operate properly until I realized I need to bleed from both the inside and outside bleeders on the rear. Only had one small leak at the rear tee union but just tightened it up a bit more and that was it.

Yama-Bro

07-09-2018, 04:20 PM

I'll give you a second "thank you" for your brake line pics. I'll probably do something similar with mine. They look good!

shark92651

07-10-2018, 08:33 AM

Just a quick update on a mod I did on the Coyote accelerator last time I put it back in. I didn't like the fact that it was only attached to the bracket on the LHS as it tended to kick it out away from the bracket on the RHS and allow some movement. Probably not a big deal but it bothered me so I made an attachment for the RHS. I cut down a piece of aluminum and pressed it in between the ribs on the back. I then drilled a hole through it and tapped it for 10-32 screws. I also drilled and tapped the pedal bracket. I had to drill a clearance hole through the bracket that is welded to the frame at that location as well so that the screw can pass through. I then just cut and drilled a small piece of angle and bolted it down. Now it's rock-solid on the RHS as well.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1766/42416630475_76cc60533a_c.jpg

shark92651

07-15-2018, 08:21 AM

I've started laying out and attaching the Coyote harness and various bits for the power wiring. This is an area of the build I have been intimidated about since I first started thinking about the build. Hopefully my confidence will grow and it will all make sense by the time I turn that key for the first time. Shout out to Paul for answering my questions, it is greatly appreciated. You will notice the similarity to Paul's power wiring. He did a great job and I'm following his layout closely. I hope to be able to avoid any issues and be prepared so that I can drop the engine/trans in a single time only.

Here you can see I mounted the Coyote PDB on the DS above the trans tunnel, on the large tube. I used 5/16-18 rivnuts, nuts, bolts, and lock washers. I cut a 2" hole in the firewall with the hole about 1/2" above the tube and close to the firewall support I added.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/917/28552987657_2d68f9ec92_c.jpg

This is a shot from below looking up towards the PDB. You can see I installed the battery disconnect switch (from FFR) and the 250A fuse block that comes with the Coyote control packs. to mount the fuse block under the PDB I used a 10-32 rivnut in the 3/4" tube on the right and then used 1 1/4" of nylon spacers and a 2" 10-32 bolt from HD to mount the left through the aluminum panel.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/43374802762_21dcc97acd_c.jpg

Here is the PCM bracket and Coyote PCM mounted above the PS footbox.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/846/43374825562_2c1a7ff3e1_c.jpg

I also went ahead and mounted the fuse box bracket for the Ron Francis wiring harness. I made a bracket to secure that loose corner as others have done.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/42705816844_2afce0efe5_c.jpg

Now I'm just waiting on some wire, lugs, heat shrink and other bits to arrive so that I can start hooking all of this up. I'm also reviewing the documentation again trying to wrap my head around all of it.

Straversi

07-15-2018, 11:20 AM

Looking good. Think about pulling your gauge wires through the firewall now as well.
-Steve

shark92651

07-15-2018, 12:35 PM

Looking good. Think about pulling your gauge wires through the firewall now as well.
-Steve

Are you talking about the wires for the senders like oil pressure, water temp?

Straversi

07-18-2018, 01:57 PM

Are you talking about the wires for the senders like oil pressure, water temp?

yes, and Tach.

Dthquazi

07-18-2018, 03:27 PM

I want all my holes drilled before I send my firewall to the powder coating place. Can I get a measurement on where you drilled the hole for the wiring?

shark92651

07-18-2018, 04:33 PM

I want all my holes drilled before I send my firewall to the powder coating place. Can I get a measurement on where you drilled the hole for the wiring?

Are you talking about the hole in firewall for Coyote harness? I can get that to you when I get home. It's really not that big of issue to drill this after powdercoat because the edges are covered by the grommet, however.

Update: I placed the hole in my firewall 18-3/4" from the PS edge of firewall and 3-3/4" up from bottom of firewall. This clears the 2x2 tube by about 1/2" and is about 2" towards the DS from the Dash hoop support.

shark92651

07-19-2018, 08:03 AM

EdwardB mentioned the hydraulic cable crimper he found online and I ended up buying the same unit so thought I would post some more info for those interested. Search for YQK-70 - It was about $40 on Amazon. At first I was going to use the fusion lugs and terminals with the solder slug inside but I saw they are around $6-$10 each and I need about 12 of them so that's $72 right there. The basic tinned copper lugs are only about $1 each so was easy for me to justify the investment.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1809/41698931900_cce344091b_c.jpg[/url]

It easily makes nice 6-sided crimps that are very strong. I put two crimps on the battery terminals because they are so long, and only 1 on the standard lugs.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/930/41698931870_3d82b494dc_c.jpg

I had to find a chart to convert the die sizes to AWG. Here it is:

AWG
MM2

12
4

10
6

10-8
8

8
10

6
15

4
25

2
35

1/0
50

2/0
70

Boydster

07-19-2018, 03:29 PM

Nice tool to have. One of those that you may not use much, but when ya gotta do the job, it becomes priceless.

shark92651

07-24-2018, 08:45 PM

It's been as hot as the surface of the sun in Texas the last week so haven't been spending much time in the garage. Also taking a few mini weekend vacations so may be awhile before I make some more decent progress. I have mostly completed my power wiring, just waiting on a couple parts from Del City and then I'll post up some photos and details of that work in my next update.

After looking at where I drilled holes for my rear harness, dash power wire, and where I intended to run my clutch line, I decided I didn't like it. With the dash in place, the harness was visible. Probably most wouldn't notice it, but it bothered me so I decided to re-route things. I put the upper inside DS footbox wall in place and decided to route those items through that panel instead.

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Here is where the harness will come in. Hidden much better IMO.

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Here is a block plate I made to cover the old holes. Another benefit is that it fills most of that large gap between the panel and the 2x2 tube. This will be mostly buried when I get Lizard Skin and carpet in place, but I'm going to powder coat it so that it looks good from the back side before I rivet it in place.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/861/29752964278_b2e6c3e896_c.jpg

shark92651

08-01-2018, 09:59 PM

I have been out of town the last couple weekends and waiting on a part from DelCity, which I finally received today, so I was able to button up the power wiring. There is nothing here that is new as I relied very heavily on what others have done, especially EdwardB, but there were a few subtle changes in the Coyote Controls pack and I'll do my best to detail that here in case anyone else finds it useful.

There was a label on the wiring harness near the main connection for the PCM that identifies this version of the controls pack as CM-14A006-A504VB REV. 2 04/2018 313. The two biggest changes I see from previous versions is that they eliminated the Clutch Top of Travel connector and switch and also removed the 2nd power connector that plugged into the PDB. You only have to deal with the Clutch Top Travel switch and the single "unlabeled" power lead to the PDB.

In this photo you can see the wiring for the PDB, the supplied 250A fuse, and the battery disconnect switch. I ran 2AWG cable from the battery to the switch, over to the fuse, and then up to the PDB. The power connector that normally goes to the lug on the front of the PDB is actually attached to the right-side of the fuse, but is hidden in this photo. The 4AWG cable on the top (switched-side) of the switch runs down to the starter. Inside that small loom in the middle of the junction there that is also running down with the starter power wire is the (B) Battery Ground BL and the (N) Starter Lead. The Battery Ground needed to be extended and the Start Lead was rerouted from it's original location near the PCM. You can also see a small loom that contains an 8AWG wire coming off the top of the disconnect switch and running into the dash - this will power everything inside the dash.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/29924845778_45d0153f79_c.jpg

Here is the 4 AWG power cable and the (N) Starter Lead coming out of the harness in the area where the starter will be located.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/43747181552_8e7172df72_c.jpg

Here are the 2AWG battery cables and routing. I tapped a 3/8-16 hole for the ground and grounded the main battery cable and the (B) Battery Ground BL. I used my Dremel with a small sanding drum to remove the powder coat and used dielectric grease to keep the connection corrosion-free (I hope).

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/929/29924852538_08e8ab8fcd_c.jpg

FFR supplies a 5/16" hole on the engine mount here that is a perfect pilot hole for tapping a 3/8" engine ground.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/937/29924859718_a9e71e576f_c.jpg

Here is the mounted PCM and how I routed the cabling here. I cut and capped off the wires for the EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering), which I won't need with my KRC hydraulic system, and tucked them inside the harness. Continuing towards the front on this side is the wire for the engine fan and the connections for the MAF and Alternator which I'll deal with later.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/939/43078724594_011f3d4b37_c.jpg

JoeAIII

08-03-2018, 12:06 PM

Thank you for pointing out that hole.
Hopefully I remember it when it comes time to wire mine.

I have been out of town the last couple weekends and waiting on a part from DelCity, which I finally received today, so I was able to button up the power wiring. There is nothing here that is new as I relied very heavily on what others have done, especially EdwardB, but there were a few subtle changes in the Coyote Controls pack and I'll do my best to detail that here in case anyone else finds it useful.

There was a label on the wiring harness near the main connection for the PCM that identifies this version of the controls pack as CM-14A006-A504VB REV. 2 04/2018 313. The two biggest changes I see from previous versions is that they eliminated the Clutch Top of Travel connector and switch and also removed the 2nd power connector that plugged into the PDB. You only have to deal with the Clutch Top Travel switch and the single "unlabeled" power lead to the PDB.

In this photo you can see the wiring for the PDB, the supplied 250A fuse, and the battery disconnect switch. I ran 2AWG cable from the battery to the switch, over to the fuse, and then up to the PDB. The power connector that normally goes to the lug on the front of the PDB is actually attached to the right-side of the fuse, but is hidden in this photo. The 4AWG cable on the top (switched-side) of the switch runs down to the starter. Inside that small loom in the middle of the junction there that is also running down with the starter power wire is the (B) Battery Ground BL and the (N) Starter Lead. The Battery Ground needed to be extended and the Start Lead was rerouted from it's original location near the PCM. You can also see a small loom that contains an 8AWG wire coming off the top of the disconnect switch and running into the dash - this will power everything inside the dash.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/29924845778_45d0153f79_c.jpg

Here is the 4 AWG power cable and the (N) Starter Lead coming out of the harness in the area where the starter will be located.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/43747181552_8e7172df72_c.jpg

Here are the 2AWG battery cables and routing. I tapped a 3/8-16 hole for the ground and grounded the main battery cable and the (B) Battery Ground BL. I used my Dremel with a small sanding drum to remove the powder coat and used dielectric grease to keep the connection corrosion-free (I hope).

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/929/29924852538_08e8ab8fcd_c.jpg

FFR supplies a 5/16" hole on the engine mount here that is a perfect pilot hole for tapping a 3/8" engine ground.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/937/29924859718_a9e71e576f_c.jpg

Here is the mounted PCM and how I routed the cabling here. I cut and capped off the wires for the EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering), which I won't need with my KRC hydraulic system, and tucked them inside the harness. Continuing towards the front on this side is the wire for the engine fan and the connections for the MAF and Alternator which I'll deal with later.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/939/43078724594_011f3d4b37_c.jpg

shark92651

08-12-2018, 02:18 PM

I riveted most of my remaining aluminum in place as I hope to spray Lizard Skin soon. Before I put the rear cockpit wall in place I figured I better get my Breeze roll bars drilled first or else it would be nearly impossible to get in position to drill the holes. I read that a lot of people struggled with this but I didn't find it too difficult so will detail what I did here.

From looking at how I could drill from two sides, and to gain access to the roll bars once the body is in place, I decided to drill the holes in a mostly front to rear orientation. I bought three drill sizes: 1/8", 1/4", and 7/16". I bought the Milwaukee cobalt drill bits at Home Depot. I bought 2 of the 1/8" bits and one each of the others.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1798/43951750772_4085f7f69e_c.jpg

I'm lucky to have access to a large drill press with a cross vise and it definitely made the job easier. I center punched the tubes at each leg and drilled with the 1/8" bit first, then the 1/4", and then the 7/16". I would swap out the bits and completely drill each leg to completion before moving to the next leg. I ran the press at 550 RPM and used lots of Tap Magic oil. It probably took me just over an hour to get them all drilled.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/43281195514_c40b274687_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1772/43281200344_13c66fe8af_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1839/29062439677_f2ccc0fbb1_c.jpg

I then honed out the inside of each leg a bit with a drum sander bit on my cordless drill to remove any burrs and greased up the inside of the legs and the stub tubes. The roll bars pressed back onto the stub tubes fairly easily. I aligned them to the top of the paint marks I had made earlier which are 3" above the floor of the trunk. I then used my center punch to mark the center of each hole on both sides.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1840/43951369312_813a45ffbb_c.jpg

Using the same bits as before I drilled 1/8" pilot holes on each side. I did NOT try to drill through to the other side as I figured it would be next to impossible to get the holes to line up that way. I then moved up to the 1/4" bit and finally the 7/16" bit. My cordless drill was struggling a bit on the 7/16" bit, probably because it was getting pretty dull a this point. I switched to my corded 1/2" drill to finish these up. Here is the final product, all six legs and rear stub tube drilled and with through bolts installed. I am glad I decided to plug weld the front stub tubes in place as that saved me from having to mess with an additional 4 holes. I have read that some think it is a bad idea to weld them in place as they needed the additional movement in order to fit the bars, but I don't think that is the case, at least I didn't have any problems at all with the way I did it here. All told it was probably about a total of 2.5 hrs to complete this job.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/939/43094064205_e28ecba09c_c.jpg

shark92651

08-12-2018, 04:14 PM

I've riveted in the remaining back cockpit wall and hope to spray Lizard Skin next weekend.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/43096220585_4237459406_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1819/43953517742_492720a99f_c.jpg

shark92651

08-12-2018, 04:24 PM

Before I start cutting holes in my blank dash, I decided it would be a good idea to make a "test dash" where I could figure out the best hole sizes for each gauge and switch and practice covering with the foam and leather I plan to put on the dash. I cut a piece of aluminum and bent a tab on the bottom and curved the top so I could practice covering a curve with leather as well. I did learn that the 2 1/8" hole saw is a better choice than the 2" for the small gauges. I thought 2 1/8" was too loose but after pulling the leather back through the opening it is about perfect, whereas the 2" was just way too tight. For the large gauges I bought a 3 7/8" hole saw, which is a little too tight. I don't want to spend money on a 4" hole saw so I am just going to open up both those holes to 4" with a drum sander instead. Overall I am pretty pleased with how it turned out. I used a couple of SS washers as bezels for the speedo menu button and the toggle switches.

I used the Landau Top & Trim adhesive and applied it with cheap paint brushes from Home Depot. This stuff works very well. I found that once I pulled the leather over the edge or through an opening and pressed it into place it would not move. I didn't even feel the need to put any weights or anything on it, just ran my roller over it a couple times and it isn't moving at all.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/929/42191926290_745b5d2d19_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/43282405764_45e7af5284_c.jpg

Higgybulin

08-13-2018, 05:58 AM

Its really coming along!! Rollbars and the test dash look great!
Higgy

stevant

08-15-2018, 11:39 AM

Nice job Shark........ I have not really looked into the gauges after install into the dash but will once time to hook up. What’s the button for attached to the RPM gauge?

shark92651

08-15-2018, 02:25 PM

Nice job Shark........ I have not really looked into the gauges after install into the dash but will once time to hook up. What’s the button for attached to the RPM gauge?

I just grabbed a 4" gauge for the test dash. The button will actually be used for the GPS speedo to cycle though all the menu options on it. You do need to use the button to program the tach, however, but no need to have that one permanently mounted in the dash. I am going to install a couple remote stereo jacks in the support panel underneath, however, and hook them up to the tach and the fuel gauge in case I ever need to reprogram those - will be a lot easier than having to get to them behind the dash.

stevant

08-15-2018, 05:32 PM

I think you also need the button for the clock?

shark92651

08-15-2018, 08:34 PM

I think you also need the button for the clock?

Yes but I traded in my clock for an oil temp gauge

shark92651

08-19-2018, 07:24 PM

I got all the holes in the dash cut out for gauges, switches, and the glovebox. It was a bit tough cutting with the 3 7/8" hole saw even on my drill press - it kept binding up. I got them all cut out though and then cleaned them up with my deburring tool. I also fabricated a center dash support and new end supports. The center support has USB/12V power connections and "remote" stereo jacks that I will use to be able to program the tach and fuel gauge without having to reach up under the dash to plug in the programming button. The end supports have white "live well" lights that will be used for footbox lights. Hopefully I can get the pad and leather installed next weekend.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1868/44142867491_d0d29707df_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1862/44142869641_cb39a59bc4_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1855/44094537212_fa9dab5ce5_c.jpg[/url]

shark92651

08-25-2018, 05:17 PM

This is a milestone that I am happy to have completed. I wanted a padded leather dash with competition layout and got most of my inspiration from edwardb's build. I also wanted a hidden attachment so went with a very similar approach using some aluminum angle, countersunk machine screws, filled with JB Weld and sanded smooth. I used the same method to mount the glove box and it all turned out super smooth with no printing through the leather.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1869/43359805665_e141e743b0_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1898/43359809255_29d2f5236d_c.jpg[/url]

Covered with pad

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1890/42457866570_8e91d8f07d_c.jpg[/url]

Covered with leather and pie cuts made

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1843/29329555207_eff8c058a6_c.jpg

Final product

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1873/44265580761_15354d2901_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1846/30398760358_c9a23b2912_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1869/44265586031_36321226c2_c.jpg

Higgybulin

08-25-2018, 09:07 PM

Great job!!
Higgy

shark92651

09-01-2018, 02:19 PM

I fabricated a couple of inner panels for the upper trunk this morning. I just took some measurements and then transferred to some poster board and then to aluminum. Took a bit of checking and trimming but finally got them to fit the way I like. It seems so much more finished with these, I'm surprised FFR doesn't include them in the kit.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1848/44408315561_6966951f39_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1841/43690896434_65b245a8b9_c.jpg

BadAsp427

09-01-2018, 10:13 PM

So this looks really good. In fact, at first I was trying to figure out what you did... I had to go back to the bunch of photos I took of my kit before I took all the panels off. So if I'm seeing it correctly, you now have a "double" wall on the side right? Because from my photos I have, it looks like there is a side panel there, but you have the support braces on the inside of the truck if you leave them as is... Am I understanding what you did?

Fixit

09-02-2018, 09:15 AM

Yes... a double wall. I made the same panels for 9365 - and I agree, FFR should include them - they'll make the trunk trim-out so much easier and better looking.
92479 92480

Mark Eaton

09-02-2018, 10:42 PM

Ok, you guys convinced me, I need to do the same thing.

Jeff Kleiner

09-03-2018, 06:04 AM

---and I agree, FFR should include them -

The early cars did but when the trunk configuration and structure was redesigned to eliminate the dropped floor several months into Mk4 production they changed the outer trunk side aluminum and deleted the the inner panels.

Jeff

shark92651

09-03-2018, 08:23 PM

I spent several hours on Sunday masking and preparing for Lizard Skin. I scuffed all the panels in the cockpit and trunk with some 150 grit sandpaper and then masked everything off. This is a lot of work and I am still just over 1/2 done since I need to also mask again and spray the ceramic insulation, but at least that is cockpit only.

Here you can see most of the masking in the cockpit

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/29520865877_1af943e19b_c.jpg

I bought a few plastic drop cloths and taped them along the edges and tied some string loops in the corners so I could hook them onto my shelves and quickly bring them down to allow me to move around to spray and protect from different directions. I managed not to get it all over the garage, which is good.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1897/30589275548_7ca5c449fe_c.jpg

Here are the results after I pulled the masking. I should have let it set up for another hour before I started pulling the masking tape, but I didn't want the edges to pull up if it was to hard. As it is, I smudged it in a few places as it was still very wet. Oh well, I have to spray the heat product next and it's all going to be buried under carpet in the end anyway.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1867/44409389122_986614faaa_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1851/44410603742_9ea27a38b7_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/44459933791_49014d8ab2_c.jpg

Mark Eaton

09-03-2018, 09:36 PM

That looks really good

shark92651

09-09-2018, 12:45 PM

I re-masked the cockpit and sprayed the ceramic insulation yesterday. I'm glad to have this done and can pull wires through and bolts things in place for the last time.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1880/44559419081_8a4e1d8169_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1889/44559422561_14cf814eeb_c.jpg

After pulling all the masking and pulling the harnesses back through.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/30705744068_3bd2a0c57c_c.jpg

I also ran a wiring harness for the wiper motor, ran the engine senders harness, and attached a fitting for the stainless PTFE fuel line. I'll cut and put the fitting on the other end once I have the motor in place. Speaking of the motor, looks like I am very close to dropping that in place.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1842/42766306010_22f5d52793_c.jpg

BadAsp427

09-10-2018, 04:22 PM

So now that you have the Lizard Skin in place, do you also plan to put any other coating/padding, etc down? Like you have in your foot box. Why did you not do the foot box BTW?

shark92651

09-11-2018, 10:35 AM

So now that you have the Lizard Skin in place, do you also plan to put any other coating/padding, etc down? Like you have in your foot box. Why did you not do the foot box BTW?

Because my pedals and MC's and everything was already in place in the DS footbox, I just thought it would be easier to use the stick-on product there rather than trying to mask and spray around all that. The Lizard Skin is all I plan to use for sound/heat in the rest of the cockpit.

shark92651

09-15-2018, 05:13 PM

After bleeding my brakes the old fashion way a while back, I still had some air in my rear circuit. The rear MC would move about 4x as much as my fronts. I bought an extra cap for my reservoir and collected the parts I needed at Home Depot to make a pressure bleeder. Here are the parts I used and the finished product.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1875/43984696684_eca9487c77_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1885/44653915992_0d6b3e5571_c.jpg

I set the compressor at 15psi and re-bled the rear brakes. Wow, what a difference. Now I have a nice hard pedal with equal movement in both the front and rear MC. I wish I had just done this from the beginning. Super easy and was done in 5 mins.

https://youtu.be/c1EaOHv8UN8

shark92651

09-15-2018, 05:24 PM

As others had advised, I went ahead and cut off the bottom flange of my QuickTime bell housing and backer plate. I figure it would be a LOT easier to do it now while it is still out of the car. I removed the trans and hoisted the engine up and rested it on top of my Black and Decker WorkMate (with the hoist still handling most of the weight) and cut it off with the angle grinder. I cleaned it up with a flap disk and then touched it up with some of the leftover POR-15 that has been in the bottom of my fridge since May - it's still good!

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1873/44653919502_681c9dfdab_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1850/44702319351_04910622fb_c.jpg

cv2065

09-15-2018, 05:47 PM

Looking really good! You're last two threads gave me more work to do. One, I'm definitely going to cut me some side panels. And two, I've got to get me another B&D Workmate. I have a really old one that is on its last legs, and man do those things come in handy!

shark92651

09-15-2018, 07:26 PM

I've had this WorkMate for several years and I have certainly gotten my money's worth.

shark92651

09-16-2018, 02:06 PM

cv2065

09-17-2018, 12:44 AM

Nothing too exciting today but I got my DS footbox top panel in place, with removable access panel. I had to get my hydraulic reservoir out of the way to get in there so I made a little support out of a piece of aluminum so it's kind of just hanging out in space there. I guess I'll just leave it there until I get the motor installed.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1844/42909140290_d1f02433a2_c.jpg

Looks great!! Question: Where you have your 3 hydraulic hoses coming out of the driver's side front foot box panel, where did you get your hoses as well as the triple grommet they are feeding through?

RR20AC

09-17-2018, 01:23 AM

The removable top access panel 3 top screws may conflict with the body. Those screws I used red loctite on at a depth to accept the panel which I slotted. You'll only have six screws to tighten then. Build is looking awesome by the way :)

shark92651

09-17-2018, 09:36 AM

Looks great!! Question: Where you have your 3 hydraulic hoses coming out of the driver's side front foot box panel, where did you get your hoses as well as the triple grommet they are feeding through?

Those are the hoses that came with the master cylinders. If you need to order some, it is EPDM rubber hose, same as used for air hose. You can get it in red or black at McMaster-Carr. The part# for red is 5405K2. I bought a cheap assortment of rubber grommets on eBay, and I just carefully spaced 3 of them out and drilled the panel for them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/180-pc-Rubber-Grommet-Assortment-Kit-Set-Firewall-Hole-Electrical-Wiring-Gasket-/292371204638

The removable top access panel 3 top screws may conflict with the body. Those screws I used red loctite on at a depth to accept the panel which I slotted. You'll only have six screws to tighten then. Build is looking awesome by the way :)

I would not be surprised if there is a conflict. I purposely avoided the top-left corner for that reason, from looking at other builds. I suppose I could leave the cover off when I put the body on and then use whichever ones I have access to. Your idea to slot the top holes is a good one and would be an easy mod, thanks for the suggestion.

cv2065

09-17-2018, 09:42 AM

Those are the hoses that came with the master cylinders. If you need to order some, it is EPDM rubber hose, same as used for air hose. You can get it in red or black at McMaster-Carr. The part# for red is 5405K2. I bought a cheap assortment of rubber grommets on eBay, and I just carefully spaced 3 of them out and drilled the panel for them.

Ah, I see it now...that's the round block off panel that you drilled the holes in. Thanks!

Sigurd

09-17-2018, 09:45 AM

Yes but I traded in my clock for an oil temp gaugel

Did you get the oil temp gauge from Seedhut or FF?

shark92651

09-17-2018, 10:59 AM

l

Did you get the oil temp gauge from Seedhut or FF?

I contacted Speedhut and they hooked me up with a trade in. It comes with the sender as well so don't do like I did and order that separately.

Update: I needed to revisit this recommendation. The sender that comes with the gauge will barely fit between the oil pan and the frame rail, but it doesn't leave enough room to plug in the harness. I ended up using their smaller "universal sender" as I can actually get a wire hooked onto it. The SKU is G-SNDR-14 for anyone that needs that info.

shark92651

09-20-2018, 08:59 AM

I knocked out a few more tasks on the Coyote in preparation to dropping it in next week.

I ordered the kit from JLT to run the DS PCV hose to the intake and got that installed.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1862/29765557657_5b0afec99b_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1857/42893011080_dfa85209c3_c.jpg

Thanks to help from forum members and a detailed thread that EdwardB started, I got my CMCV system properly plumbed. The CMCV system gets it's vacuum from a reservoir at the rear of the intake. On the 2017 Coyote, there is a single vacuum hose on the PS that is the vacuum source for that reservoir. This normally connects to the stock air intake with a 3/8" quick-detach shown here.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1887/44802980851_4690cd08eb_c.jpg

A good vacuum source to connect this to already exists to the right and above the throttle body, but it is a 1/2" connection. I decided to just cut off the plastic hose with the quick-detach right at that plastic hose barb and just plumb it with 3/8" hose and a barbed 3/8" to 1/2" fitting. The JLT kit for the PCV included a short length of 3/8" hose, so I used that, and I bought a 1/2" short molded cooling hose with a 90 degree bend on Amazon to hook this all up.

Eldon James C8-6BN Automotive Black Nylon Reduction Coupler, 1/2" Hose Barb to 3/8" Hose Barb
Dayco 80393 Molded Coolant Hose

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1849/44721836372_5e8277c8fb_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1863/44052315104_f8405f664d_c.jpg

shark92651

09-20-2018, 09:03 AM

I also got my tachometer wire ready to go. I tapped into a DS coil trigger wire to feed the Tachometer, as detailed in EdwardB's thread. I purchased a spade crimping kit on Amazon as I needed that for other wiring as well. I used a short wire lead and crimped a spade connector on each end, stripped a small amount of insulation off the trigger wire, and then crimped the spade connector onto that. I wrapped it all up and zip-tied it so that it is secure.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1867/44753327422_b68422e606_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1885/44802854671_eedf7daa8d_c.jpg

I purchased this inexpensive Necygoo Crimping Tools kit on Amazon as I needed it to wire other things anyway, like the wiper motor. This is my first time using this type of crimper and it works very well.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1868/44083267804_785d636186_c.jpg

Straversi

09-20-2018, 09:34 AM

Looking good. I’m excited for you. Can’t wait to see that Coyote in place.
-Steve

shark92651

09-22-2018, 11:27 AM

Today I test-fitted my completed dash for the first time. For my hidden fasteners I used some aluminum angle on the back and put rivnuts on the bottom of the dash hoop in 4 places. Once the dash was covered in pad and leather, and the Russ Thompson trim ring put in place, of course it caused the dash to move a little on me so the holes in my brackets didn't quite line up anymore. I just opened them up a bit with a rat-tail file in the correct direction and was able to get the bolts screwed in easily enough. The last thing I want to do is have one of those bolts bind up and spin a rivnut!

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1922/43934389815_c2fec120e2_c.jpg

I then test-fitted the Russ Thompson turn signal unit and I think I have a problem. Russ had to modify his mounting system to get it to work with the latest changes to the MK4 frame and he mentioned that there could be an issue and that I may need a longer tube, which he can machine for me. Looks like I am going to have to bring this post to his attention and take him up on his offer. It was probably fine before I added the pad, leather, and trim ring but now it looks like I need about a 3/8" longer tube to get it to work properly. The set screw that secures the hub to the tube is barely making contact with the main tube.

The whole hub kind of comes out at an angle from the dash, but I think that is normal for these cars.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1905/44795339032_08fed76c6f_c.jpg

Here you can see that turn turned down end of the tube is about 1/4" from the dash aluminum.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1885/30972985548_9a77fd67bc_c.jpg

And here you can see the biggest issue that the set screw is not making good contact with the tube in it's current mounting location and length.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1980/29908782357_c768c30daf_c.jpg

boat737

09-22-2018, 11:40 AM

shark92651

09-22-2018, 02:49 PM

Question... If you bring the RT turn signal assembly out (back) any further, won't that interfere with back side (or forward facing) of the steering wheel hub? I had to grind off about 1/16 " from the tube in order to slide the turn signal forward, away from the steering wheel hub so that it would bind on the hub.

If I follow what you are asking, I don't think that is an issue as the inner steering shaft can be pulled out to leave a small gap between the turn signal hub and the steering hub. Russ warns in his instructions that some people cause it to bind by pressing the upper steering shaft too far in, and then when tightening the nut that holds the wheel it pulls the steering wheel hub further in and causes them to bind. Is this what you are referring to, the RT hub rubbing against the FFR steering wheel hub? If not I apologize for the confusion.

I am in contact with Russ, by the way, and he is working with me to find the best resolution to my issue. I will post updates when it is resolved. One thing he pointed out is that there is supposed to be a small curved plate on the end of the jam screw which helps spread the contact force to the tube. I did find that plate in my box and put that in place, but still don't feel good about the amount of contact I am getting.

boat737

09-22-2018, 09:33 PM

Ahhhh.... There ya go. Thanks.

shark92651

09-30-2018, 04:53 PM

I got the powertrain installed today with the help of a few friends. Clearance is super-tight on the drivers side, maybe 3/32" and I don't think it is enough. There is plenty on the PS. Someone on Facebook suggesting removing the 1/2" spacer from the PS motor mount, and lengthening the slots on the DS motor mount so that the motor will drop down and slide a bit over to the PS, while keeping the headers level. Is this the best solution? Any other ideas?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1951/44968760532_f811a102c2_c.jpg

Passenger Side clearance

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1959/43205697310_541a5d55fe_c.jpg

Drivers Side clearance

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1979/44105888105_895312d09f_c.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1915/44968774882_d50d0d692d_c.jpg

Straversi

10-01-2018, 12:08 AM

Mine looks like yours. Extremely tight in the drivers side.
-Steve

shark92651

10-01-2018, 06:54 AM

Mine looks like yours. Extremely tight in the drivers side.
-Steve

Is it necessary to try to adjust it? Did you get any input from anyone on it? Thanks

Straversi

10-01-2018, 07:41 AM

I had seen similar photos so I left it alone. So far, no problems.
-Steve

shark92651

10-05-2018, 08:26 PM

After dropping my engine in last weekend I had a bit of a scare with the transmission when I could not get it to go into any gear. I could move the shifter over to the left but could not put it into either 1st or 2nd. I could not move it to the right for 5th or R at all! Rookie mistake that I did not attach the shifter and run it through all the gears prior to assembly, but it turned out to be a common issue that was easily corrected. Apparently it's pretty easy for the shift lugs to get knocked out of whack when a transmission is shipped to you. The fix is pretty simple. You just remove the middle plate and use a screw driver or pry bar to pop the "lugs" back into place so that they are all three pretty much at the same position in the middle. Once you do this you should be able to shift into all gears and then you just need to clean up and make a new gasket with RTV and then replace the cover.

Position of the lugs after I removed the cover:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1967/45125560031_798472cd10_c.jpg

Correct position for neutral and that allows shifting:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1964/44213821575_f1c42254f2_c.jpg

Here is a link to the TKO realignment procedure:
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/awr-tcet4615.pdf

shark92651

10-05-2018, 08:31 PM

I decided to trade in the clock that comes with the vintage gauge set for an oil temp gauge instead. Probably not needed, but I just didn't want or care for the clock. Once I got the motor in place I discovered that there wasn't enough room between the oil pan and the frame rail to use the sender that came with the gauge. I could get the adapter and the sender in place, but then could not physically attach the plug. The fix was to use the "universal" single-wire sender (shown on the left in the photo) Speedhut G-SNDR-14. I believe this will just find ground through the engine ground, but I won't know for sure until I have my dash in place and can test it.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1902/45053966981_7d994e5822_c.jpg

shark92651

10-05-2018, 08:45 PM

I've started the process of hooking up the wiring, dieting and re-configuring the wiring harnesses. Here is the bottom clutch switch from the Coyote harness. When I took a look inside the harness I found that a ground that was a few feet away from this switch was actually terminated at this switch. I shortened it and re-routed it so that it was close to the switch, and then grounded it along with the RF ground that goes inside the pedal box at this location.

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I ran the senders harness across the top of the DS of the motor and re-routed the alternator power wire and the tachometer signal wire through the same harness.

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Here is what it looks like after I re-wrapped the harness and attached the tachometer wire. You can see another wire loom to the right where I split off and send the oil temp sender wire to the PS of the engine.

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Here is the other end of the senders harness. You can see the attached alternator power wire, the oil psi and water temp senders connected here.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1966/30187781717_c46c3b16fb_c.jpg

shark92651

10-06-2018, 04:31 PM

I got quite a bit more done today. Here you can see I am closely following the EdwardB supplemental instructions for Coyote powered MK4 roadsters. I brought the power in from the switched side of the battery cutoff and attached to the right-side of the Blue Sea bus bar. I shortened and re-routed the 8ga battery feed and ignition switch lines and attached them to the bus bar as well. Off the left side of the bus bar I run power through a 150A mega fuse and then run the alternator power wire out the senders harness and to the alternator. Right now I have a zip tie holding the main part of the harness up to get it off of the steering column - I plan to come up with a more permanent solution to this soon. I really don't like the idea of the wiring harness rubbing against the steering column.

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Here is how the engine plugs and harnesses are routed from the engine to the computer.

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I ran the Coyote harness leg with the MAF and Alternator plugs across and around the back of the engine, and then down the front. I zip-tied all the harnesses together to keep things neat. I also finished up my stainless PTFE fuel line and connected it to the fuel rail

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1969/31268789418_74456397b3_c.jpg

Here is the plug for the alternator. I also zip-tied the IC Pump plug here to keep it out of the way. You can see the 02 sensor plug hanging loose here. I am going to have to order another of the longer O2 sensors assemblies as one of them is just too short to use without having it making contact with the header. At $50 they aren't exactly cheap.

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I hooked up the oil temp sender wire on the PS.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1971/30204282367_1cb17d46c7_c.jpg

I connected the starter wire and the battery feed. I didn't seem to have any nuts for those posts so had to go to Home Depot to pick them up. I wasn't sure of the size but eventually figured it out. They are M8-1.5 and M6-1.0.

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I couldn't resist popping on the engine cover to make sure all the harnesses are out of the way and to see how it looks. Pretty cool!

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shark92651

10-06-2018, 04:41 PM

I connected my KRC power steering lines and put a coupler on them to keep them neat. Now I can re-mount my radiator/fan assembly, hopefully for the last time. Next major project is getting the cooling system plumbing and expansion tank mounted and in place.

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edwardb

10-06-2018, 05:26 PM

Nice work and progress. Looks pretty familiar. :o One hint. For the alternator fuse, keep it to the right as much as you can. You want to keep as much of the opening between the end of the firewall and the windshield mount bracket unobstructed so you can reach back in there to the windshield bolts. Ask me how I know this... For my #7750 build, I put the fuse right across the opening and the only way to reach the windshield bolts was to drop the fuse panel. Not hard but not my favorite thing to do. Yours isn't that bad, but just make sure to leave that area as open as you can.

shark92651

10-06-2018, 07:43 PM

Nice work and progress. Looks pretty familiar. :o One hint. For the alternator fuse, keep it to the right as much as you can.

Your thread has been invaluable, as well as all the help via PM! Thanks for the hint about the fuse blocking access to the windshield bolts. I may make a small backing plate so that I can offset it to the right and still utilize my existing rivnuts.

ZachT

10-10-2018, 07:56 AM

Excelllent build thread and beautiful build thus far. Thank you for documenting in such detail.

shark92651

10-12-2018, 08:03 AM

Excelllent build thread and beautiful build thus far. Thank you for documenting in such detail.

Appreciate the compliments, but I'm really just riding the coattails of those that have done similar builds and trying to pass on to others with details and pics. Plus I will be really glad that I documented the process so thoroughly once I am "done" with the build.

shark92651

10-12-2018, 08:15 AM

I got the 2nd long O2 sensor in this week and installed that on the DS.

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Last night I finished hooking up the clutch line, filled and bled the system. Here is a shot looking down from the upper-inside wall of the DS footbox where the line comes out. I purchased a 24" Allstar flex line and it was the perfect length to meet up with the line attached to the Tilton hydraulic release bearing. I did have to buy a fitting to connect the two because what came with the line was the wrong size. I needed a 3-AN male to 4-AN male fitting which I picked up on eBay. I wish I had mounted the line to the 3/4" tube with a tube clamp prior to dropping the motor in. I thought I could get in there with my right-angle drill but it's just too tight, so I just used a zip-tie.

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Here is a shot from underneath when I was bleeding it. I used my pressure cap again and it literally took less than 30 seconds to bleed the clutch. I just need to set the clutch stop now to prevent over-travel. Tilton recommends that you put the trans in gear and have someone attempt to turn a rear wheel while you slowly depress the clutch. Once the clutch is released, you add 1/4" of more pedal travel and then set your clutch stop there.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1969/44356104225_e46b5dafeb_c.jpg

shark92651

10-14-2018, 02:23 PM

Today I finished up the cooling system. I used the same Moroso tank as Edwardb and others have used. In order to mount the tank I cut and bend some 1" x 1/8" steel flat bar around the 3/4" tube that the radiator is mounted to. I had my friend weld up the cuts where I bent it and also put a support piece across the bottom to add rigidity. I tapped 1/4-20 holes to mount the tank to it. On the front I used 3/16" rivets to mount the bracket to the tube. I thought I could just through-bolt it but there just isn't enough room without interference with the flange on the tank.

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For a support on the bottom I decided to use a 3/4" thick piece of Delrin plastic that I had at work. I measured the angle on the top of the fan shroud and the distance to the bottom of the tank. After a bit of trial and error with a template I was able to cut the Delrin and then mount it to the tab on the bottom of the tank with a self-tapping screw. It rests perfectly on the top of the fan shroud now

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Here is a shot of the mounted tank with all the hoses connected.

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shark92651

10-14-2018, 02:37 PM

I purchased a Dayco 71713 radiator hose and a Jegs 90 degree SS tube #679-MB1040. I found that the connection on the bottom of my radiator points upward while others point downward. I was still able to fabricate the hose but used a different section of the 71713 hose and went over the anti-sway bar rather than under. I used the hose that came with the Coyote for connecting to the engine. After a good bit of trial and error, trimming of hoses, and cutting of the SS tube I was able to get it to fit like a glove.

The Dayco 71713 before cutting.

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Finished product with T-bolt clamps and salvaged braided loom

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Connection to the radiator

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Connection to the engine

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And the SS tube crosses the "X" tube at 90 degrees so I will be able to secure it here using the Breeze mounting bracket #70612 which I have on order, just zip-tied it for now.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1913/30380292897_83e38be5b4_c.jpg

shark92651

10-14-2018, 02:51 PM

Here are a few shots of the rest of the cooling system hoses. The only stock hose that I was able to use without any modification is the one that goes to the bottom of the expansion tank. The upper radiator hose is the hose for an F-150, which fits better than the Mustang hose, after the end is cut at the sharp bend. One issue I notice is that the edge of the quick-connect fitting is making slight contact with the wider pulley that was installed with the KRC power steering system. Has anybody else seen this and know of a fix?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1969/44597268484_9324ff7e14_c.jpg

The stock coolant bypass hose that attaches to the back of the tank is too short so I went to Autozone and picked up a 3/8" coolant hose for $2.99. The engine side of this connection is 1/4" but the tank side is 3/8" so I also picked up a 1/4 to 3/8" fitting and some hose clamps while I was there. I cut off all but about 8" of the stock hose and connected the two.

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Here is the overflow hose connected to the side of the radiator. I had to remove the pepcock and put on a 90 degree barb fitting and trim just a bit off the end of the hose. Many thanks to Edwardb for writing such a great tutorial on this part of the build. He also has a complete list of part #'s used so be sure to check out his thread if you are going to be plumbing your system this way.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1979/43504899750_c164677b0c_c.jpg

shark92651

10-19-2018, 07:40 AM

Just a minor update of a couple items I got done this week. First I got the cooling system filled. I poured in just short of 4 gallons of the Ford orange coolant and distilled water mix at 50/50. No issues at all with trapped air with the way the system is plumbed.

I received the padded clamp and secured the SS tube of my bottom radiator hose to the "X" tube.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1979/43601220080_e56d814694_c.jpg

I bought a wiring plug for the wiper motor and got that installed. This weekend I hope to make some good progress on the rest of the wiring as I am really working towards that first start now.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1912/44694448614_a78cda2ab6_c.jpg

shark92651

10-22-2018, 08:32 AM

Progress continues on the wiring, slow and steady hoping not to screw anything up. I've kind of given up on it looking very neat in here. I just want everything to work and not be a fire hazard! I've got the Coyote pigtail wires wired up except for the HAAT which I intend to use on the Speedo so that it always has power to reduce GPS startup time. I also connected the front, rear, and sender harnesses.

I covered my under dash supports in leather and got them installed. I put LED live well lights in the supports over the DS and PS footboxes.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1902/44565994375_e0f46701ac_c.jpg

My center support has a USB charger, 12V adapter, dimmer switches, and 3.5mm stereo jacks that I am going to wire to plugs that will go into the tach and fuel gauge in case I ever have to reprogram those. I can just plug in the extra programming button that I purchased from Speedhut. The second dimmer switch is for a PWM dimmer I am trying to make for my LED indicator lights - the jury is still out on how well that will work but I will post details when I am done with it. Those aluminum angle pieces I riveted in place will hold a "riser board" that I am going to make for the Russ Thompson wiring.

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Here is a shot from underneat showing the leather covering. Should be nice to feel the leather under here when accessing the dimmers or plugs.

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This is the PS where you can see I have another footwell light, OBD2 port, inertia switch, and wiper harness.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1961/45428472412_b6438ae5cf_c.jpg

shark92651

10-22-2018, 08:48 AM

Last night I installed the seat heater pads in my leather roadster seats. Nothing that hasn't been done many times before but I included a few shots that show the details in case anyone finds it useful. Please enjoy the soothing pink background in these shots as well - I did this on my daughters tumbling mat for comfort ;) The bottom seat cover is pretty easy to remove because the glue they use or their technique sucks. I'm sure it will be a LOT more secure when I reglue this with the Weldwood Landau I used on the dash. On the bottom cushion I ran the pad all the way across the curve on the front and it fits perfectly without trimming. I cut a groove the dept of an X-Acto blade about half way down the bottom between supports of the seat frame. The foam is thickest in this area so no concern with cutting here for me. I shoved the wire harness into the groove.

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For the back I removed the two c-clips and pulled it away. I didn't try to actually remove the leather since there are a couple hog clips in there I didn't want to mess with. Once you pull the material up there is enough room to get your arm all the way back in there so complete removal is not necessary. I shoved the pad up in there and smoothed it out. I then peeled back the adhesive a few inches on each side at the bottom and press it down. Reaching in I just removed the tape strip a little at a time, smoothing it down as I went, until I had it all the way at the top. It was pretty simple.

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Straversi

10-22-2018, 09:30 AM

Won’t be long now. Nice work.
-Steve

shark92651

10-24-2018, 10:53 PM

Tonight I mostly completed the wiring for the Russ Thompson turn signal unit. I followed his schematic for the “flash to pass” functionality on the stalk button. This seems more complicated than it should be but apparently it works well. I mounted it on a “riser board” that I will mount on my center under dash support. Once I figure out what length I need on all those leads I will cut them down and crimp on the appropriate spade connectors to hook to all the wire in the dash harness. and then try to bundle up these wires the best I can.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1971/31673223268_e3a4074e51_c.jpg

UPDATE:
After working on attaching the dash harness and all the wiring for the gauges, I was able to trim down the bulk of the RT wiring just a bit. I switched most of the wires to 18ga, but used 16ga for the relay wires and the high/low beam wires. I cut the wires down to the optimal length where it will sit on my center dash support and reach the appropriate wires on the dash harness. I put spade connectors on everything and made leads that run up to the RT turn signal unit. It now looks like this.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1914/44684926005_64df9be1de_c.jpg

Here is approximately where it will sit behind the dash when installed.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1910/45548972642_5fe4e511a7_c.jpg

shark92651

10-28-2018, 10:07 AM

I bought these 12mm LED indicator lights on Amazon for Left turn, right turn, high beam, and MIL. They are super bright so I really wanted to find a way to dim them and I came up with a solution that was fairly inexpensive, although not very elegant.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1964/43781005850_e0c7c7b0d2_c.jpg

I found this PWM LED dimmer unit on Amazon for around $7. It has 2 leads for input, 2 leads for output, and a pot for adjusting the output. I tested it with my LEDs and it works fine.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1917/45548357022_9943c3ff00_c.jpg

The only problem is that it only works for a single channel and I need three (decided no need to dim the MIL as always bright and annoying is probably a good thing for that light). I tried to find a multi-channel PWM dimmer but didn't find anything like I need with three separate outputs controlled by a single knob so I decided to just buy two more units and wire them in parallel using a single pot to control all three. This is what I ended up with. I mounted the knob underneath my center dash support next to the gauges dimmer. I bought a kit so that I could crimp JST plugs on all the wires so I could easily swap out a unit should it go bad. I mounted the boards to a piece of Kydex plastic and I will just stick this on top of the Russ Thompson wiring using a Velcro pad. It's a bit bulky since it requires two pair or wires for each LED but is workable.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1955/31726425238_aa71dbc137_c.jpg

And finally a shot of my mostly complete dash wiring. I still need to cut and cap the speed sensor wires and clock/speedo memory wires since those aren't going to be used. I am going to use the HAAT wire from the Coyote pigtail to power the Speedo. I also wired the Speedo left/right/high lights in addition to my 12mm dash LEDs. I guess redundant indicators is going to be OK since the Speedo isn't going to be directly in my line of sight with the competition dash layout I used.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/30657676797_5e445bf7d8_c.jpg

shark92651

11-03-2018, 08:15 PM

I modified, extended, and ran the seat heater wiring harnesses through the transmission tunnel. I bought some 4-pin wiring plugs similar to the existing plugs on the harness to extend the wires for the switches, and also ran the power wires in the same wire loom, through the upper DS inside footbox wall where my rear harness comes in, and over to the center of the firewall.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1965/44974040734_d5c4383c04_c.jpg

Here is where the harness plugs and relay will sit under the Breeze seat brackets I picked up this week. I plan to bolt the harness down to the bottom seat plate once I figure out a good way to do that.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/30758172957_f787f1f293_c.jpg

shark92651

11-03-2018, 08:22 PM

I noticed about a week ago that my glove box was split and broken around three different screw posts on the dash! I think this happened from the dash flexing a bit when I was test-fitting it to the hoop. The plastic seems rather brittle around the flange and I needed to come up with a repair. I decided to cut a "ring" out of aluminum and JB Weld it to the flange and epoxy the shattered bits in as well as I could. So far I think the repair is going to be OK but was not happy with this problem in the least. In hindsight I think I should have just fabricated a glove box from sheet metal.

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4903/30758168767_41ef3f3513_c.jpg

shark92651

11-04-2018, 04:39 PM

Well today was a good day as I got all the wires connected, dash installed, and everything seems to be working!

I propped the dash up on a couple boxes and got it as close to the hoop as I could to hook everything up. It looks like a total birds next in there but at least everything worked. I had one issue with the RT push button going to high beams but not back to low. After a few tries though it started working, I assume was just an issue with the new relay. I really hope it doesn't go bad on me as the thought of pulling the dash back off fills me with dread.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4808/31849085228_244b32ea58_c.jpg

Here it is once I got everything in place and fastened the dash to the hoop. I probably could have gotten it a little cleaner in there but probably not much. I'm just happy everything is working.

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A view from the front.

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Here is a shot from underneath with the headlight switch turned all the way to the left to light my footwell lights. I need to pick up some wide finishing washers or something, preferably in black, to attach my dash supports.

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The lights work, at least the ones I hooked up so far. Hazards flash, turn signals blink, etc... The LED modules I bought for the flasher even have an old school audible click, although they click like 1 extra time after turning them off, which I find a little weird.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4890/45720748021_5e5c7167df_c.jpg

After the glove box repair it's all good now. I also installed a USB port in the glove box that is always hot. I figure this will be handy if I ever want to lock my phone in the glove box for charging while I'm away from the vehicle.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1958/30780245297_94770a9113_c.jpg

I programmed the fuel gauge so it is showing dead empty. I just want to double check a few more things and then I think it's time to put a little fuel in the tank and see if this beast will fire up :D

shark92651

11-10-2018, 09:54 PM

Today I installed a 3/4" aluminum spacer to correct the pinion angle and to get the driveshaft off the cross frame member. I picked up a piece of 3/4" x 1.25" 6061 aluminum at Metals Supermarket in Plano and they even cut it down to the 7" length I needed and then I curved the ends using my reciprocating saw and angle grinder with flap disk.

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Here is a shot of it installed from the rear near the driveshaft.

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I went ahead and mounted the Metco driveshaft safety loop as well. I had also cut 3/4" spacers to raise the loop but it turns out I didn't need them as there is plenty of clearance at the top of the loop.

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shark92651

11-10-2018, 10:02 PM

After seeing how close the DS header was to the footbox I decided to add some Thermo-Tec adhesive-backed heat barrier to the front side of my footboxes. In order to get this into place with so little room between the header and aluminum I removed the plastic backing from the middle of the sheet and sprayed a little Windex on it. I was then able to slide it into position and align it from the middle and then pulled the rest of the backing out and pressed it into place. When the Windex dries it will adhere in the middle. I have used this technique to apply vinyl graphics on vehicles before and it works well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4899/31948856798_e4a9b4a82b_c.jpg

I went ahead and mounted my stainless side pipes and wheels as well. It's starting to look like a car. If all goes as planned, I will have my first start tomorrow.

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BadAsp427

11-10-2018, 11:15 PM

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Ok,,,, I have to ask. Are you really worried what is going to happen the first time you start that awesome beast up? Or is the toilet seat in the car for some other purpose? Just sayin'

Seriously, Looking Great!!!

shark92651

11-11-2018, 08:43 AM

Ok,,,, I have to ask. Are you really worried what is going to happen the first time you start that awesome beast up? Or is the toilet seat in the car for some other purpose? Just sayin'

Seriously, Looking Great!!!

Haha, A toilet seat would be a great option, for the passenger side! Actually that is the breeze seat mount. It provides a little adjustment fore/aft and raises the front a bit for comfort. It's also good for providing room for my seat heater harness and relay.

shark92651

11-11-2018, 05:14 PM

I had a successful first start today. At first it refused to turn over but then I remembered that I had unplugged the clutch safety switch when I was adjusting it. After plugging it back in it fired right up. Oil pressure and temp look good. Engine fan turned on at around 165 degrees or so but the engine itself never got over 190 at idle after running for about 10 minutes. I had a fuel leak at the rear where the flex line meets the hard line but I tightened it down a bit more and that corrected it. I want to do a rough alignment before I take it go carting, but I couldn't be happier right now!

https://youtu.be/dGj0DUafG6M

BadAsp427

11-11-2018, 08:09 PM

Awesome!!!! Congratulations..... let it Roar!!!!

Straversi

11-11-2018, 09:18 PM

Way to go! Congratulations
-Steve

Mark Eaton

11-12-2018, 01:20 AM

That is Awesome!

-Mark

Texas Driver

11-12-2018, 09:27 AM

HOLY COW. That sounds good. Congrats on the start and making it this far already, everything is looking great.

edwardb

11-12-2018, 09:32 AM

Nice work. Congratulations. Another Coyote perfect first start. :o

2bking

11-12-2018, 10:47 AM

Sounds good, looks good, congratulations.

cv2065

11-12-2018, 12:19 PM

Way...To...Go!! Sounds awesome. I'll have to take a look at that Breeze seat recliner...

Hacksaw84

11-12-2018, 04:07 PM

Excellent!!! Looking forward to getting there too.

FLPBFoot

11-12-2018, 04:09 PM

shark92651

11-18-2018, 09:53 AM

This weekend I took the car out for a couple go cart rides around the neighborhood. Unfortunately I was home alone so no video but here are a couple pics of the car in current go cart phase. Everything seems OK with the car but there is a little clutch chatter when releasing clutch in 1st and reverse. Is this normal at this stage with a brand new clutch and high-torque motor in such a light car? It's not bad and driving technique can mitigate it a bit. I hope it will go away or become minimal once the clutch and flywheel settle in.

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4838/45880616202_280b2b4ccd_c.jpg

Before co-carting I used the "string method" to get a rough alignment all around. The wheels are pretty much parallel at this point and haven't tried to set camber or caster other than the rough measurements on the upper control arm found in the manual.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4876/45205931674_01f837516e_c.jpg

I mounted the Breeze seat mounts to the seat frames. I rattle-canned them black first and bolted the seat heater relay under the seat mount. The Breeze seat mount provides plenty of clearance for the harness. The bottom bracket hasn't been bolted down yet, waiting to get the body on first, but it seems I will have a very difficult time attaching the nuts on the posts in the rear. Any tips on that?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4843/32058941438_33baa7a794_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4902/45938481391_4de02caac1_c.jpg

I also mounted my Crow camlock racking harnesses. For the inside bolt I followed the instructions in the manual and drilled a 1/2" hole through the tab and the trans tunnel aluminum. I bought some 1/2-13 x 2" bolts at HD because the supplied bolts were a little short at this location. I used some fender washers on the inside of the aluminum to help distribute the load and placed a couple washers between the tab and the aluminum to fill the gap.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4846/30999666847_d28c100d98_c.jpg

Fixit

11-19-2018, 07:44 PM

You're a better man than me... How could you RESIST giving the throttle a few blips!!??

shark92651

11-20-2018, 12:26 PM

You're a better man than me... How could you RESIST giving the throttle a few blips!!??

I definitely gave it more than a few "blips" when I went tooling around the neighborhood last weekend ;)

shark92651

12-09-2018, 12:03 PM

Well I officially have a major setback :( Seems I have a problem with my Tilton hydraulic release bearing and I am afraid the transmission has to come out to repair/replace it. After successfully completing my first go cart ride I had an issue the next time I took it out right before Thanksgiving. The hydraulic release bearing would not retract and I barely got the car back into the driveway. The issue didn't happen right away and I drove it a few miles without issue, but the next weekend on another go cart ride I would release the clutch pedal and the transmission would not engage. Eventually it engaged and I was able to get it home and in the driveway, but could not get it to move after that and had to push it into the garage and wait until after my Thanksgiving trip back home to take a look at it. The bearing was extended what looks to be about 5/8" which I believe is within spec but it would not retract. I ended up bleeding some fluid from the circuit and pushed on it a bit with a long screw driver and it retracted. I then re-bled the system and reset my clutch stop hoping the issue was that it wasn't set quite right. After testing that it was moving in and out I fired up the engine and put it into gear and it did the same thing, it would not retract and engage the clutch. This time when I took a look into the bellhousing I could see a little hydraulic fluid dripping off the HRB. Damn. I guess it's either defective or I somehow damaged it by overextending it, although I am not certain that I did because I was pretty careful in the initial setup of the gap and the setting of the clutch stop. I did have to adjust the clutch stop a bit more as it was initially grinding a bit to get it into Reverse, so maybe I did overextend it, I don't now for sure.

So am I going to have to pull the engine or is it possible to drop the transmission in a Coyote/TKO configuration without pulling the engine?

edwardb

12-09-2018, 12:34 PM