Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Graduated!!

[2bking]

Sorry about your set back but the transmission can easily come out from below. The difficulty is doing it laying on your back and muscling the weight of it. You may have to remove the shifter (mid-shifters definitely have to come off) and don't forget to drain the transmission. Then removal will be in reverse order of the installation. When time for putting it back in, cut the heads off a couple of 8 inch bolts with the same thread as the four that mount it to the bell housing and use them for rails to slide the transmission back into the bell housing.

[DadofThree]

Very sorry about your trouble. I can relate as I had a flywheel problem during my gokart stage and had to replace. Unfortunately, it's one of those things that is frustrating. But relative to the entire build, it won't take much time to do. I was a little fortunate in that I found that my new rear main seal had a leak. So I was able to fix that while the flywheel was off.

Again, sorry for your frustration. Wish I was closer that I could help. Dave

[shark92651]

Needless to say this has been a bit deflating to the momentum. At this point I am just going to get through the holiday season at least and then get to tackling this problem. Work has been taking away from my build time the last couple months anyway. I will attack this with renewed vigor at some point. Thanks for all the help and encouragement!

[PeteMeindl]

Ugh... Really sorry to hear this, Shark. Yeah, like you said, enjoy the holidays and you'll come back renewed and ready to tackle this!

[initiator]

It's hard going backwards, but it's a good feeling to put that thing back where it belongs and know that you took the time to do it right.

[Hacksaw84]

I got my back-ordered alternator kit in yesterday so I went ahead and installed it. Pretty straightforward install, despite the lack of any real instructions other than a diagram with torque values.

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The instructions don't address this pulley at all. I assume it could be used in place of the silver one on the tensioner. Any reason to use one over the other?

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Did you ever get an answer on this pulley? I was wondering the same thing? Since yeah, the instructions are useless.
In the description of the kit it says "Larger pulley to slow the armature speed, reduce drag and reduce parasitic hp loss" I assume that is the pulley already installed on the alternator.

I bolted my alternator up and it does not really feel right. The lower left bolt does not really snug up the alternator. I am curious if I am missing something because I am missing the nut that goes on the upper right bolt (the one with the star head).

[Hacksaw84]

I answered my own question(s).

I talked to ford performance and here is what they told me on the pulley:
"That is an idler pulley with a stronger bearing for high RPM use. It was production on the Boss Mustangs. Remove the bolt and the accessory drive belt idler pulley. To install, tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft-lb)."

On the alternator I didn't realize the nut in the rear pulled in when you tightened it up. Once I got the missing nut, it was all good.

[shark92651]

I answered my own question(s).

I talked to ford performance and here is what they told me on the pulley:
"That is an idler pulley with a stronger bearing for high RPM use. It was production on the Boss Mustangs. Remove the bolt and the accessory drive belt idler pulley. To install, tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft-lb)."

On the alternator I didn't realize the nut in the rear pulled in when you tightened it up. Once I got the missing nut, it was all good.

I was about to say I installed it anyway since they must have supplied it for a reason. Glad you got the hardware issue sorted out.

[Hacksaw84]

I was about to say I installed it anyway since they must have supplied it for a reason. Glad you got the hardware issue sorted out.

I thought the same but wanted Ford to confirm. They are pretty good about answering things like that, got help right in their online chat. Apparently not so good with those instructions though.

[shark92651]

Well I finally got the time and motivation to pull my transmission out. I bought a universal transmission tailshaft plug to keep the fluid from spilling out and cut down the unused side to give me a bit more room to move the transmission rearward. I removed the driveshaft safety loop and driveshaft, then inserted the plug and sealed it up with some duct tape. I also removed the shifter plate and sealed that up as well. Then I disconnected the flex hydraulic line and caught the fluid in an oil tray. I wrapped the line from the release bearing in a zip-lock and rubber banded it to avoid any further mess. Then it was a matter of removing all the bolts from the transmission mount and the transmission support. I put my floor jack under the trans and lifted it slightly to pull out the transmission support. Then I removed the four bolts holding the trans to the bell housing. My son worked the floor jack from the rear of the vehicle while I was underneath on the creeper. It was a process of carefully pulling the transmission rearward until the input shaft cleared the bellhousing. Then we slowly lowered the front of the trans until the shaft cleared the outside of the bellhousing. The trans was tilted quite a bit with the rear of the trans resting on the frame cross-member with a rag underneath for protection. Eventually it was clear. It was a job, but not as awful as I imagined it would be.

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Now that it's out I have to decide what to do next. I'm not exactly sure if the problem was due to faulty installation or what. Tilton support even asked me if I removed the powder coating from the front of the bellhousing, as if a slight cant could have caused the issue with the slave not being able to retract. If the Tilton has such a narrow window between proper setup/operation and total failure, count me out :( How difficult would it be for me to switch to an external slave such as the Forte kit at this point? Can I install it and set it up without having to pull the bellhousing and put my transmission back in place using the reverse of the procedure I used to pull it out?

[FLPBFoot]

Great pics and sorry for all the problems.

Give Mike Forte a call tomorrow. He'll know exactly what you will need to do.

I went with the slave on mine from Mike. Set up was easy and his mounts are top quality.

Steve

[edwardb]

Now that it's out I have to decide what to do next. I'm not exactly sure if the problem was due to faulty installation or what. Tilton support even asked me if I removed the powder coating from the front of the bellhousing, as if a slight cant could have caused the issue with the slave not being able to retract. If the Tilton has such a narrow window between proper setup/operation and total failure, count me out :( How difficult would it be for me to switch to an external slave such as the Forte kit at this point? Can I install it and set it up without having to pull the bellhousing and put my transmission back in place using the reverse of the procedure I used to pull it out?

Continue to be really sorry about the problems you're having here. Did you index the bell housing when you assembled it? Aside from the Tilton HRB, if it's not in spec Tremec would likely give you grief for any warranty claims. The question from Tilton about the powder coat isn't an unreasonable question. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the powder coat from the bell where it contacts the block. The spec (.005/.010 total) is that tight. I've indexed three QuickTime bells like yours and my experience is they were almost perfect. So I doubt yours is out of spec. But unless you measured it, can't know for sure. Point is if it's out of spec enough to affect the HRB, which I have a little trouble imagining, you might have a bigger problem with the trans down the road.

But to your point, if you want to switch to a traditional clutch arm / slave cylinder setup (which I completely understand) wouldn't be that hard although you may have to disconnect the bell housing. Did you leave the pivot in the bell housing or remove it? If it's still there, you could probably get the clutch arm in and hooked on the pivot. But it may not be adjusted at the right height. Once the clutch arm and TOB are installed, the rest (slave cylinder mount, slave cylinder, etc.) would be pretty straightforward with everything installed. Good luck.

[Vspeeds]

Im glad to hear the removal wasn’t as bad as you thought it would be. Im sure youll make the right decision for your build as to what to do next. I have to do the same, but my car is still in go-kart stage so i think it will be easier to pull the engine and tranny assembly out altogether. My issue was my own fault as i allowed the bleed line to rub against the rotating clutch causing the line to fail. For time constraints i didnt even consider going another route. im replacing the Tilton HRB.

[shark92651]

Continue to be really sorry about the problems you're having here. Did you index the bell housing when you assembled it? Aside from the Tilton HRB, if it's not in spec Tremec would likely give you grief for any warranty claims. The question from Tilton about the powder coat isn't an unreasonable question. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the powder coat from the bell where it contacts the block. The spec (.005/.010 total) is that tight. I've indexed three QuickTime bells like yours and my experience is they were almost perfect. So I doubt yours is out of spec. But unless you measured it, can't know for sure. Point is if it's out of spec enough to affect the HRB, which I have a little trouble imagining, you might have a bigger problem with the trans down the road.

But to your point, if you want to switch to a traditional clutch arm / slave cylinder setup (which I completely understand) wouldn't be that hard although you may have to disconnect the bell housing. Did you leave the pivot in the bell housing or remove it? If it's still there, you could probably get the clutch arm in and hooked on the pivot. But it may not be adjusted at the right height. Once the clutch arm and TOB are installed, the rest (slave cylinder mount, slave cylinder, etc.) would be pretty straightforward with everything installed. Good luck.

Can you describe what is involved in "indexing" the bell housing? I didn't remove anything from the bell housing (the pivot), but I don't really recall seeing anything but perhaps it is in there. I was focused on the Tilton unit from the beginning so I never even researched how to install the standard clutch fork and bearing.

[shark92651]

Im glad to hear the removal wasn’t as bad as you thought it would be. Im sure youll make the right decision for your build as to what to do next. I have to do the same, but my car is still in go-kart stage so i think it will be easier to pull the engine and tranny assembly out altogether. My issue was my own fault as i allowed the bleed line to rub against the rotating clutch causing the line to fail. For time constraints i didnt even consider going another route. im replacing the Tilton HRB.

My car is still Go Cart as well, haven just taking it on a couple short rides before this issue came up. For me the thought of pulling the engine, or more specifically, removing the cooling system, headers, sensor connections, and everything else attached to it fills me with dread.

[edwardb]

Can you describe what is involved in "indexing" the bell housing? I didn't remove anything from the bell housing (the pivot), but I don't really recall seeing anything but perhaps it is in there. I was focused on the Tilton unit from the beginning so I never even researched how to install the standard clutch fork and bearing.

There are a number of articles and videos on the web. Try this one: https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/news/bellhousing-alignment-install-guide/. Talked about here on the forums quite a bit. Your Quicktime is probably fine, and with the Coyote it's not easy to correct if it's off. But it's related to the comments Tilton made to you regarding alignment, powder coat affecting it, etc.

I seem to remember the Quicktimes come with the pivot installed. But I'm not positive. You should be able to see it there. Either directly or with a mirror. But the height typically needs to be adjusted. So if you go that way, probably the bell housing has to come off.

[Vspeeds]

My car is still Go Cart as well, haven just taking it on a couple short rides before this issue came up. For me the thought of pulling the engine, or more specifically, removing the cooling system, headers, sensor connections, and everything else attached to it fills me with dread.

Yes i see. The Coyote is a much bigger engine and a liitle more complex than my install. I would dread removing it also.

[DavidW]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101580&d=1549034198

Just replace it with one of these and be done.

[shark92651]

Well I'm finally getting back to my build and hopefully I can get the hydraulic clutch swapped over to the external slave type without too much effort. I am really trying to get the pivot bolt and the fork/bearing in without having to pull the bell housing. I put a second nut on the bolt and using it as a jam nut I am able to adjust it easily with a wrench. The problem is, I have no idea what I am doing here. How do I know how far in/out the pivot needs to be and if the fork is adjusted properly? If I remove the bearing, I am able to slip the fork in and then attach the bearing. Here are a couple shots and a video. Any advice on how to know if I have it adjusted properly? Thanks for any help.

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Here is a video showing how much movement is in the fork at this time. How should I adjust this?

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/5SNmvz8TSCo

[shark92651]

Well with some help from forum members and reviewing some pics in other threads, I got the pivot ball adjusted and locked down. I put a thin bit of Lucas Red N Tacky in all the right spots and got the fork and bearing reinstalled. This weekend I plan to get the transmission back in with the Forte clutch unit. I'm glad to finally be back on the project and hope to regain the momentum I lost at the end of last year.

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[shark92651]

This morning my son came over and we managed to get the transmission back in without too much trouble. I got the transmission frame, the support and spacer, and the drive shaft all buttoned up. Just need to get the driveshaft safety loop back in place and the gear shift plate on the top. A builder friend had a spare Forte hydraulic kit that he gave me - gotta love the FFR community! However it seems the bracket is the wrong one. He said this was for a small block with the TKO and I have the Coyote/TKO combo. Hopefully all I need to do is get a new bracket. Does anybody know if this is the case?

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[edwardb]

A builder friend had a spare Forte hydraulic kit that he gave me - gotta love the FFR community! However it seems the bracket is the wrong one. He said this was for a small block with the TKO and I have the Coyote/TKO combo. Hopefully all I need to do is get a new bracket. Does anybody know if this is the case?

Correct. The only difference between the kits from Forte is the bracket. You need one specifically for the Coyote/Quicktime/TKO combination. Bell housing can make a difference too. Not the best pic, but you'll need the same one I have on my #8674 Anniversary build, which we've talked about before. You can roughly see how different is than the one you have.

https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg.html)

[shark92651]

Thanks Paul. I talked to Forte today and he is going to do a swap for me for basically covering shipping.

A few weeks ago one of my employees asked me what color I was planning to paint the car and I told him either Ford Ruby Red like my truck or a silver, but leaning towards the Ruby Red. Look what showed up in the mail for me today! This is all hand drawn - he has some serious skills! I picked up a frame on the way home from work and have it hanging up in on my garage wall now.

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[Cruzzz]

That drawing is awesome!

[shark92651]

I completed most of the fabrication of my trans tunnel cover today. I am going to cover it with the same pad and leather as my dash. The cup holders are 3.5” poker table cup holders with rubber inserts from a Nissan Armada. They are wide enough to hold my phone, and I have USB chargers just above in my dash center support. I used 3M panel adhesive and countersunk rivets to add a 2nd piece of aluminum underneath for extra rigidity and to hold the patch around the shifter opening. I plan to make it removable through the use of rivnuts on the 1” tubing and some 3/4” aluminum strips on the side with countersunk holes and flat head screws.

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[shark92651]

Today I got my trans tunnel covered in leather and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. First here are some pics of the finished product, less the shifter boot and mounting system, and then I'll include some details on my process in case anyone finds it useful.

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I only put foam on the very top of the tunnel cover, except I wrapped the sides only 1/4" down. The reason is that I will be mounting it from the sides with some 3/4" strips of aluminum that will be lined up with the bottom of the tabs on the side, which are 1" long. I figure having the foam and leather wrap over the edge and then meet the aluminum bar would prevent trash from collecting in the seam. Also by not having the foam under the aluminum strip it will be much easier to install and should make for a nice look without excessive "puffiness".

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Here you can see that I cut the foam out around my shifter boot trim ring and the cup holders. I did this with my dash as well and I find that it makes for a clean look. You also don't have the foam working against you trying to compress it when you are trying to seat the parts in place.

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I used the same Landau Top and Trim adhesive that I used on my dash. I probably have enough to do at least one more car if I had to. I got the leather seated on the foam and then slowly work my way around all the edges, trimming as I go. The only real hard part here is working the corners, but working slowly and cutting and trimming pie cuts as you go makes for a nice result. I cut the holes out with my X-Acto and use shop shears for the rest.

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I used some leftover Thermo-Tec insulation to insulate and secure the cup holders in place. I heard there is quite a bit of air pressure in the tunnel at speed and I don't want them popping out. I also plan to brush on some of my leftover Lizard Skin heat and sound insulation on the rest of the bottom before I mount it.

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Finished product

[Boydster]

I like that recessed look by trimming the foam back. Nice work.

[Higgybulin]

Very nice!!

[edwardb]

Looks great. Like what you did a lot. ;)

[SSNK4US]

That really looks good!! I also love what you did.

Keep in mind that in the immortal words of edwardb that lizard skin does not like the elements and you might want to top (or bottom in your case lol) coat it with something to protect it.
ALWAYS pay attention to Paul ;)
Also yay and congrats! It’s been a tad over a year since you bought them :)

Kurt

[shark92651]

That really looks good!! I also love what you did.

Keep in mind that in the immortal words of edwardb that lizard skin does not like the elements and you might want to top (or bottom in your case lol) coat it with something to protect it.
ALWAYS pay attention to Paul ;)
Also yay and congrats! It’s been a tad over a year since you bought them :)

Kurt

I was wondering if I need to use the Lizard Skin top coat product, or could I just use some of the bedliner product I intend to use on the underside of the body? Absolutely, to me Paul's build threads are the real manual. That printed thing FFR gives you is just a guideline ;)

[shark92651]

Well Forte was kind enough to swap out my bracket and cylinder for basically enough to cover shipping. I had to tweak it a bit to get it to fit properly. I bought some longer bolts and added 4 additional washers to give me a little bit more room between the cylinder and the bracket that fits on the clutch fork. I then cut about 1/4" off the rod end and the threaded end of the pushrod, and cut about 1/2" off the back side of the push rod. It took quite a bit of marking and testing to figure out just how much to remove, but I got it installed and it has just a bit of flex towards the rear. I figure with the rod end and the washers I have plenty of options to adjust it for wear.

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I also reinstalled my clutch stop, but I barely think I need it with this setup. Forte recommended a 13/16" master, but I already had a 7/8" installed. I put the trans in gear and had my son push in the clutch pedal until I could turn the rear wheels, and then adjusted the clutch stop to that point plus just a bit more. I put a rubber vacuum cap on it so it wouldn't be metal on metal contact. I tested it to full extension and back multiple times and it looks good and no leaks. I think I'm back in business!

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[shark92651]

I took the Go Cart around the neighborhood for a few miles to test out the new clutch release and it is working great - shifts smoothly into all gears, including reverse. Feels great to be back and this point again. On to the body work!


https://youtu.be/LqFnUD3tmPk

[edwardb]

Looks and sounds great! Congrats on getting it back together and working well. I see you didn't get any responses on your question about Lizard Skin top coat. I've used their product. I have the transmission tunnel cover coated with Lizard Skin on the bottom since it's got foam and leather on the top. I used their top coat after applying to the two Lizard Skin products. It's OK, but nothing really special IMO. If anything, kind of thin. Doesn't make a heavy coating like other undercoat products. It's solvent based, and once the Lizard Skin is cured obviously holds up to it just fine. You could use just about anything, e.g. your undercoat product of choice, and I think it would be fine.

[shark92651]

Looks and sounds great! Congrats on getting it back together and working well. I see you didn't get any responses on your question about Lizard Skin top coat. I've used their product. I have the transmission tunnel cover coated with Lizard Skin on the bottom since it's got foam and leather on the top. I used their top coat after applying to the two Lizard Skin products. It's OK, but nothing really special IMO. If anything, kind of thin. Doesn't make a heavy coating like other undercoat products. It's solvent based, and once the Lizard Skin is cured obviously holds up to it just fine. You could use just about anything, e.g. your undercoat product of choice, and I think it would be fine.

Thanks. Sure feels good to get back to this point. I will probably just brush on some of the Herculiner I received today.

[Vspeeds]

The recessed bezels look great.

[Vspeeds]

Did you ever figure out what the problem was with your Tilton HRB?

[shark92651]

Did you ever figure out what the problem was with your Tilton HRB?

No I did not. I started working with Tilton customer service on it and they even mentioned that the powder coat on the bell housing must be the same thickness all around to prevent the possibility that the transmission, and HRB, is not perfectly aligned with the clutch. That seemed a bit of a stretch to me, but I guess with extremely poor powder coating that could be a possibility - something I doubt Quicktime has a problem with though. I think either my unit was defective or I did not set my clutch stop properly and overextended it to the point where the diaphragm spring could not push it back in. Even if it were defective, the pain of having to pull the transmission had me thinking to switch to an external unit should I have more problems in the future. Then a local builder friend offered me a free Forte unit so I jumped on that and didn't even spend any time with Tilton customer service again. I plan to send it back to them anyway in case they can find an issue with it and maybe send me a replacement.

[extradc]

I took the Go Cart around the neighborhood for a few miles to test out the new clutch release and it is working great - shifts smoothly into all gears, including reverse. Feels great to be back and this point again. On to the body work!


https://youtu.be/LqFnUD3tmPk


I am digging your progress. I cant wait till i'm where you are.

[shark92651]

This Saturday it was raining pretty hard but I did manage to get a few items knocked off the list.

First thing I did was put the rubber trim on the the radiator cowl aluminum I picked up from replicaparts.com. I had it powdercoated a satin black last summer with another batch of parts that included the elephant ears.

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Next I fabricated some brackets for my louvers since they were missing from the box. I just cut up and bent one of the unused dash supports and attached them with some #6 stainless button head screws. I may have longer brackets than I need, and if so I will drill new holes to bring the adhesive-mount studs I bought a little closer to the louvers.

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[shark92651]

My brother came over to help me test fit the body for the first time, but before that I took him for a go-cart ride. I guess it was a good time to go ahead and install the heat shields I picked up from Drummer Mike on the forums. I opted for the polished stainless shields and I think they look great, and they work great too! After a quick go-cart ride of a couple miles around the neighborhood, I was able to rest my hand on the shield and they were just warm.

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[shark92651]

Ok, now it's about to get real. I rolled the body outside for the first time since last May when I received my kit. Following the advice of others on the forum, I decided to mount the body first without any bulb seal to see if I there is any aluminum I need to trim (seems to be plenty of clearance all around and I don't really see any that I need to trim at first glance).

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Jeff Kleiner told me I should trim about 1/4" off the underside of the lip on the dash side so I marked it with a sharpie, then some painters tape, donned the trusty respirator and face shield and got to cutting with the angle grinder. It cut real easy with the angle grinder, although it does make a mess.

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The lip on the rear of the cowl was pretty uneven, like really bad, so I measured and marked the rear as well and cut it to even it up on both sides.

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With my brother on the front, me on the rear, and my wife and neighbor manning the sides, we managed to get the body on. One thing I learned is that it probably isn't a very good idea to do this for the first time with the side pipes on. The body is making slight contact with the pipe on the rear of the cutout on the drivers side (plenty of room on the passenger side). After a bit of shifting and maneuvering of the body it is sitting fairly well, although the body seems to be putting pressure on the ends of the dash on both sides, more so on the passenger side. I'm hoping the bulb seal is going to be enough to lift it off the dash. There is no contact from the rolled lip and either the dash or the rear wall so that is good.

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Well my brother couldn't stick around much longer so didn't have time to pull the body back off and just parked it back in the garage. Here are a few shots of it in the garage. I guess this is sort of a milestone, feels good to finally be on the body work.

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[Fixit]

Looks Great!!
I was in the very same situation just a few weeks ago... did the pre-trim on the cockpit openings and the body dropped down without a fuss.

As far as the ends of the dash hitting the body, is it the dash panel itself, or the ends of the curved frame "hoop" the dash attaches to?
Reason I ask is I recall a blip in the assembly manual about clearance in this area, and FFR suggest you physically bend the ends of the hoop down a bit for clearance if needed...

[shark92651]

Looks Great!!
I was in the very same situation just a few weeks ago... did the pre-trim on the cockpit openings and the body dropped down without a fuss.

As far as the ends of the dash hitting the body, is it the dash panel itself, or the ends of the curved frame "hoop" the dash attaches to?
Reason I ask is I recall a blip in the assembly manual about clearance in this area, and FFR suggest you physically bend the ends of the hoop down a bit for clearance if needed...

I'm not really sure but I'll get in there with a flashlight when I have a chance and take a good look at it. Did you have to trim the aluminum side trunk panels? I have a gap all the way around, but the gap near the rear just before they turn downwards is a bit narrower than the gap further in towards the roll bars. There is probably 3/8" at the smallest gap. Is this worth trimming a bit more or will the bulb seal take care of it?

[edwardb]

I'm not really sure but I'll get in there with a flashlight when I have a chance and take a good look at it. Did you have to trim the aluminum side trunk panels? I have a gap all the way around, but the gap near the rear just before they turn downwards is a bit narrower than the gap further in towards the roll bars. There is probably 3/8" at the smallest gap. Is this worth trimming a bit more or will the bulb seal take care of it?

I'd leave it alone. Bulb seal should easily deal with it. I'm personally not a fan of wholesale trimming of the aluminum. Only if it's really obvious. Hard to put it back on after trimming it off. :rolleyes: I haven't found much was needed at all on 3 builds.

[Fixit]

I'd leave it alone. Bulb seal should easily deal with it. I'm personally not a fan of wholesale trimming of the aluminum. Only if it's really obvious. Hard to put it back on after trimming it off.

x2...
A good tip/trick is to lay a Sharpie flat against the body, and run it down against the panels that get bulb seal. 90% of the time it won't touch the aluminum (poke through the gap). Where it does, that's where it needs trimming to about 3/8" clearance (which would be to the inside of the line plus a little bit). (I only had 2 or 3 spots that were tight).

[shark92651]

Last night my brother came back over and we pulled the body off so I could get back to work on prepping everything for body assembly. Next up is a radiator screen. I purchased a large sheet of 1/4" hex perforated mesh, powder-coated black, from customcargrills.com. I had to get the largest sheet in order to get a piece that was wide enough to cover the entire radiator. I will have enough of this mesh to cover the radiator, the oil cooler, and the brake ducts for 2 roadsters. I figure I will try to sell what I have left to someone on the forum when I am done and hopefully recoup some of the cost. I also purchased the neoprene trim to wrap around the outside to protect from the sharp edges. This stuff is easy enough to cut with some tin snips so that is what I used. I had to cut corners out on the top so it would slip under the top of the 3/4" tubes that angle inward at the top of the radiator. I also purchased a piece of 1/2" x 1/4" aluminum bar to add as a spacer. Between the aluminum spacer and the neoprene trim, it holds the mesh relatively flat against the raised edges on either side of the radiator. I am using the Mike Everson radiator aluminum in the cowl which will press against the screen once installed, so I didn't see any reason to secure it other than at the top using the radiator mounting bolts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47085658834_f29cd9c748_c.jpg

I like it. The hex pattern is a nod to the current Ford Mustang grilles - works will with my car's theme of blending modern Ford powertrain and suspension with the classic Shelby Cobra look.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40908637773_463fe5068a_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32930831887_a4f1fdc21f_c.jpg


Someone had warned me about the black oxide socket head bolts FFR supplies for the Wilwood pedal box, the radiator mounting bolts, and the hood hinge hardware rusting prematurely. Sure enough, within a couple months I started seeing rust on these bolts so I swapped them out for some stainless hardware this morning. Stainless hardware this size at lowes costs more than it should, but I can't stand the rust. So far the bolts on the hood hinges are showing no sign of rust. Perhaps they are from another supplier that knows how to properly apply a black oxide finish. I'll keep an eye on them and swap them out later if they start to rust as well.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47875004661_e294363825_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47085660504_d0725e4322_c.jpg

[shark92651]

In preparation for riveting in the outer panels on the driver's side footbox, I double-checked my pedal positions and brake balance, and put a little loctite on the jam nuts and tightened them down, also did a final adjustment on my Coyote clutch switch. I then installed the last of my Thermo-Tec Cool-It insulation on the inside of the panels.

I had an idea to extend the built-in dead pedal with a piece of 1" x 1" angle aluminum I have on hand. I fit the panel in place with some cleco's and took some measurements. I cut a piece of angle about 5" long and secured it to the panel with some countersunk bolts, washers, and locknuts - one on the front and 2 on the back. On the back side I measured and cut some aluminum spacers to hold the dead pedal in the desired position. This provides quite a bit more area to rest the foot over the built in cutout in the panel. I'll clean up and radius the ends a bit, powder coat it black, and put a piece of grip tape on the front of it to finish it out.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33999779558_73b91bf671_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46960762575_1332b26b3b_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33999784198_765c963c67_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I only have a little time to work on the car this morning but I finished up the wiring for the tail lights. I tested and all functions are working: running lights, brakes, and turn signals. I followed the common recommendation and put the brakes on top. All of the bulbs have been replaced with LEDs. I added a ground on each side in the tab where the bottom quick jack bolt goes. For a third brake light, I spliced into the Rt brake light wire and ran a wire up into the trunk in the loom for the license plate light. I'm undecided if I will add a third brake light or not, but I will have the wire ready just in case.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32936573497_5d030a3d47_c.jpg

I left about 6" of lead on the tail lights themselves, and the leads on the harness come to this spot. This looks to be enough to plug the lights in without too much extra harness dangling below. To avoid confusion with which is brake and which is turn, I used different connectors on each. The tail light with the male plug is brakes on both sides.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/34003544508_fc1c304596_c.jpg

The red wire is for the third brake light. I will tap into the ground wire in the loom.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/34003549408_8a3f26256d_c.jpg

[shark92651]

This afternoon I got the weatherstripping installed. Not a difficult task, but a satisfying one. Let me know if anyone sees that I missed something or did something wrong.

Fist up was the bulb seal across the top of the firewall

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47833113212_2668462954_c.jpg

Next the bulb seal along the cockpit sides and down the trunk walls. You can also see the rectangular weatherstripping I put along the top of the rear trunk hoop.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47885072871_098853efe4_c.jpg

Then the bulb seal along the bottom, rear of the trunk

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47885070611_9d4467d6de_c.jpg

Here is the rectangular weatherstripping along the 3/4" tubes that run along the hood. I went ahead and riveted in the last two pieces of the driver's footbox. I hope I don't have to get back in there again because it is going to be a LOT harder from here on out.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46968995955_edb7137f07_c.jpg

You can see here where I ended the rectangular weatherstripping that runs along the 3/4" rails alongside the hood opening. I also went ahead and drilled for the Breeze Automotive radiator cowl cover and put some bulb seal along the front. I think I will wait until the body is in place to rivet this as I think it would interfere with putting the two rivets in the Mike Everson radiator cowl piece.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40918682653_2cd24d75c7_c.jpg

Well that is it for the weather stripping. I see photos of finished cars with some sort of bulb seal on the inside of the doors. I don't see this anywhere in my remaining parts. Is this something that is supposed to come with the kit?

[Jeff Kleiner]

You'll need to cut a section out of the bulb on the PS firewall extension for the windshield post to pass through BTW, it appears that you have the wire for your GPS receiver in the the slot in the extension where the post will be.



I apply the nice "D" seal around the perimeter of the hood and to the doors after paint:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=91586&d=1534644583

Available from a few sources but I like to support our fellow builder/vendors and get it from Mike Everson. FFR supplies a crude self stick foam for the hood and door openings but PLEASE do your painter a favor and don't put it on ;) The adhesive is a bear to get off...

Jeff

[shark92651]

You'll need to cut a section out of the bulb on the PS firewall extension for the windshield post to pass through BTW, it appears that you have the wire for your GPS receiver in the the slot in the extension where the post will be.

I apply the nice "D" seal around the perimeter of the hood and to the doors after paint:

Available from a few sources but I like to support our fellow builder/vendors and get it from Mike Everson. FFR supplies a crude self stick foam for the hood and door openings but PLEASE do your painter a favor and don't put it on ;) The adhesive is a bear to get off...

Jeff

I will reroute the GPS wire around the top side of the firewall extension. As far as the bulb seal in the slot, should I notch out the entire slot, or does the windshield post tend to end up towards the DS, PS, or middle of the slot?

I don't plan to put on any other weatherstripping at this point. I'm going to do the bare minimum fitting on the hood, doors, and trunk just so that I can fit the latches and hinges before sending out for paint.

BTW I am amazed at the engine compartment in that roadster. Stunning craftsmanship.

Thanks,
David

[shark92651]

Well I really wanted to do some lighting in the oil cooler opening behind the mesh I plan to install in the opening, and I wanted them to be LED. After a bit of research I found these small 3" motorcycle lights and figured I could use them. They have halo or "angel eyes" as well as the fog lights. I decided to wire up the halos as daytime running lights and the main fog lights will be switched from the dash. I plan to mount these to the bottom of the radiator support but can't finish up the bracket until I have the body back on. I'm sure the supports will need to be cut down and bent into position, and then I will powder coat them black. Total cost about $50.00

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930552513_af90d8ff60_c.jpg

I used 2 relays, one for the halo "daytime running" lights and another for the fogs. I used weatherpacks for all the connections.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930561736_8357e99c7d_c.jpg

I removed the electrical tape from around the ignition switch and ran a wire to the post that is powered when the key is turned to accessory. This will be used to switch the relay on the halos for the daytime running lights. I ran this wire inside the same loom with the SPST switch I installed earlier to manually switch on the fogs, down to the front of the car below the radiator.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930552468_8356384f86_c.jpg

It was hard to get a photo that shows just the halos with my phone so this pic is actually with them off, but they do power on as designed with the key is switched on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930555673_a01991b2de_c.jpg

Here is a shot of the bright fogs when switched on manually.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930557568_8bcb11b64e_c.jpg

[Desert Snake]

Well I really wanted to do some lighting in the oil cooler opening behind the mesh I plan to install in the opening, and I wanted them to be LED. After a bit of research I found these small 3" motorcycle lights and figured I could use them. They have halo or "angel eyes" as well as the fog lights. I decided to wire up the halos as daytime running lights and the main fog lights will be switched from the dash. I plan to mount these to the bottom of the radiator support but can't finish up the bracket until I have the body back on. I'm sure the supports will need to be cut down and bent into position, and then I will powder coat them black. Total cost about $50.00

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930552513_af90d8ff60_c.jpg

I used 2 relays, one for the halo "daytime running" lights and another for the fogs. I used weatherpacks for all the connections.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930561736_8357e99c7d_c.jpg

I removed the electrical tape from around the ignition switch and ran a wire to the post that is powered when the key is turned to accessory. This will be used to switch the relay on the halos for the daytime running lights. I ran this wire inside the same loom with the SPST switch I installed earlier to manually switch on the fogs, down to the front of the car below the radiator.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930552468_8356384f86_c.jpg

It was hard to get a photo that shows just the halos with my phone so this pic is actually with them off, but they do power on as designed with the key is switched on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930555673_a01991b2de_c.jpg

Here is a shot of the bright fogs when switched on manually.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47930557568_8bcb11b64e_c.jpg

I like that alot. Very nice touch.

[shark92651]

I started working on adjusting the body cutouts. I need to open up the holes for the louvers, side pipes, and roll bars (going with the larger diameter Breeze roll bars).

I made a template for the louvers. I tried to make it so that an even amount of louver will show in the hole on the leading and trailing sides. I also sized it so that the body overhangs the louvers by a mere 1/8"

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47931624561_a1e95b088b_c.jpg

When I aligned the template on the existing holes I found that they didn't really undersize the height of the cutout. I tried to align it the best I can on the existing holes but looks like I will have to take a little more material off the top and bottom to straighten up the existing horizontals. Also I found that FFR didn't do such a great job of making sure the cutouts are in the same location on each side. I adjusted the best I can with the existing holes, but one side will be 3/8" closer to the wheel well than the other side. Oh well, you can't really see both of them at the same time so I suppose it's not a big deal.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47931614837_b9334f6ff2_c.jpg


I used my trim rings for the Breeze roll bars as a template and draw around the existing holes. I am going with dual roll bars and for the front hoops, looking at the relation of the hole cutouts to the seam on the mold, they don't really appear to line up. I took some rough measurements from the front of the hole to the lip of the cockpit and they do appear to be roughly in the same position on both sides. I guess the seam on the mold is not very symmetrical.

Driver Side

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47935897048_078a88e187_c.jpg


Passenger Side

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47935879552_f5461624a9_c.jpg


The oval hole for the rear leg also seems a bit out of whack. If I project a line through the oval towards the front holes they appear to be pointing in different directions in relation to drivers side and passenger side. On the drivers side it appears to be pointed roughly towards the right leg of the hoop, but on the passenger side it seems to be pointing in between the two hoop holes. I think I will open up the front hoop holes first and then start to drop in the roll bars to see how the rear leg is oriented before I start to cut anything for the rear. Anyone experience something similar and have some advice for me?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47935855627_10e3576721_c.jpg

I took measurements from my body test fit and I know how much I want to open up each side pipe cutout to get about 1/2" clearance on the sides and about 5/8" on the top, but I haven't marked them yet. Do most people try to keep that side pipe cutout with that taper towards the top, or should I just try to have the sides be fairly 90 degrees if possible? Does anyone have any decent pics they could share?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47935969131_06cfe4dc0d_c.jpg

[Mark Eaton]

Well I really wanted to do some lighting in the oil cooler opening behind the mesh I plan to install in the opening, and I wanted them to be LED. After a bit of research I found these small 3" motorcycle lights and figured I could use them. They have halo or "angel eyes" as well as the fog lights. I decided to wire up the halos as daytime running lights and the main fog lights will be switched from the dash. I plan to mount these to the bottom of the radiator support but can't finish up the bracket until I have the body back on. I'm sure the supports will need to be cut down and bent into position, and then I will powder coat them black. Total cost about $50.00


I have been planning a similar mod and have purchased similar lights. They almost look a little too big for the oil cooler opening but we'll see... I will be interested to see how your final installation looks!

Mark

[Jeff Kleiner]

Just a bit of advise: trying to adjust cutouts for the bars and pipes without the body installed on the chassis and in it's final position may lead to shooting yourself (or even worse your body guy!) in the foot.

Jeff

[shark92651]

Just a bit of advise: trying to adjust cutouts for the bars and pipes without the body installed on the chassis and in it's final position may lead to shooting yourself (or even worse your body guy!) in the foot.

Jeff

That makes sense, however I have already put the body on once and the drivers side pipe was making contact with the back of the existing cutout, so much that I couldn't even open the driver's side door hinge without it hitting the body. Maybe I should just cut out 1/4" at the areas that were making contact and let you do the rest.

Also since I have the breeze roll bars they won't even fit through the holes at this point. I thought I would open it up at least enough so that the main hoops fit through the holes. Bad idea as well?

[shark92651]

I have been planning a similar mod and have purchased similar lights. They almost look a little too big for the oil cooler opening but we'll see... I will be interested to see how your final installation looks!

Mark

The oil cooler opening is about 3" tall. The halo's on these lights are less than that. I agree if I were trying to get them inside the cutout the entire housing won't fit. My plan is to use mesh in the opening, and mount these lights behind the mesh. You should be able to see them, but they shouldn't be very prominent. Once you start the car, the lit round halo's should be completely visible through the mesh.

[shark92651]

I'm kind of all over the place with projects on the car right now, I guess all of them are important and have to be done at some point anyway. First up is I finished putting the first two pieces of carpet into the car this morning. I'm probably not going to do any more in the cockpit until after paint to avoid making my painter's life difficult, or getting my carpet too messy. The two pieces in the back of the footbox are probably the most difficult pieces to install because it's hard to get back there and you have to run them behind some frame tubes - especially the drivers side. I decided not to cut the pieces in two, just some slight trimming, and managed to get them in place. I used outdoor carpet glue and put them in one section at a time. I started with the back section, applied the glue with a small spatula and then a small plastic 1/8" trowel to get the adhesive the right height. I press those into place and let it setup over night, then applied some more glue on the outside sections of the driver's footbox, behind the round tube, then pulled the carpet through. It's a very tight fit and I ended up using some pliers to grip the carpet and pull it. I then applied the glue on the sides, in front of the tube, and in the dead pedal cutout, and pressed it all into place. I did manage to get a little glue on the tubes and a small bit on the face of the carpet, but like Paul mentions in his thread, a little paint thinner/mineral spirits cleaned it right up. You definitely need to have the paint thinner or mineral spirits on hand before you start this job if you use this type of adhesive. You need it to clean the tools as well.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47942874496_51f2c3b515_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47942875191_2bb3487555_c.jpg


I also installed the rear brackets for the trunk support kit I picked up from Mike at replicaparts.com. I figure like the carpet I installed earlier, this will be a LOT easier before the body is in place.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47942879161_223294ca23_c.jpg


Next up I bought a cheap 1x4 at Home Depot and cut it to size and traced around the oil cooler and brake duct openings. I drew a dashed line around my trace to account for the thickness of the fiberglass, then cut them out with my jig saw. I thought this would be good to make a form for the hex brake mesh I have left over from the radiator. After a bit of trimming, bending, and forming around the block I then took it over to the body and did my best to bend and form it to fit the opening. It didn't turn out too bad for a first attempt but I think I will start over and leave a bit more material around the edges to give the silicon more material to grip when I install them after paint. When you look at the shape of the block I traced it becomes very apparent just how asymmetrical these cutouts on the body are (or maybe I just suck at tracing a hole with a sharpie).

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47942851953_f4d580dfde_c.jpg

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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47942873181_bcb9affb2c_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

That makes sense, however I have already put the body on once and the drivers side pipe was making contact with the back of the existing cutout, so much that I couldn't even open the driver's side door hinge without it hitting the body. Maybe I should just cut out 1/4" at the areas that were making contact and let you do the rest.

Also since I have the breeze roll bars they won't even fit through the holes at this point. I thought I would open it up at least enough so that the main hoops fit through the holes. Bad idea as well?

Just keep things to the absolute minimum for now and as I said earlier don't cut until the body is on otherwise you're kinda' working out in unknown space without any real references because the factory cutouts are just a starting point. RE: the Breeze bars---it's much easier to get them set up and welded now before putting the body on again.

Jeff

[shark92651]

Just keep things to the absolute minimum for now and as I said earlier don't cut until the body is on otherwise you're kinda' working out in unknown space without any real references because the factory cutouts are just a starting point. RE: the Breeze bars---it's much easier to get them set up and welded now before putting the body on again.

Jeff

My stainless roll bars have been ready to go for awhile, just need to get them polished. I used three different sized bits and cutting fluid so wasn't too bad to drill them. I had to make a single "relief" cut in the coupling tube on the passenger side to get that one to line up properly as it moved just a bit during welding.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47947418733_67c1246928_c.jpg

[ZachT]

Hopefully my kit will be picked up this week, but no word on that yet. I didn't get a whole lot of work done this weekend because I couldn't get the engine on the stand. I couldn't source the grade 10.9 M10 x 1.5 x 100mm bolts locally so going to have to wait on a delivery from McMaster this week. I did manage to get a few things done, however.

As others have mentioned, I removed some material in the oil pan in the area that may cause interference with the dipstick. I used a rotary burr file on the angle grinder to get the bulk of the material off and finished it up with small sanding drums on the Dremel. Cleaning out all the bits of aluminum was a pain. I removed that top plate and then used hot water and Simple Green. I wiped it out with paper towels and then blew it out with my compressor. It took awhile but I finally got it all out.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/26249212757_4d0094ce82_c.jpg

I got my clutch in this week and of course the dowels had to be swapped so I took the flywheel back off. I flipped it upside down and laid it across a couple 2x4's and drove out the old dowels with a 1/4" punch.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/40405244844_851a26ac78_c.jpg

To drive the new dowels in I used a cool tip I saw on Youtube. I took a large bolt and I drilled a 1/4" hole into the head just deep enough to set the dowels slightly recessed into the flywheel. I also ground off the raised identification letters on the head of the bolt so that it wouldn't stamp them into the flywheel. I have no idea if that would actually happen, but didn't want to take a chance. I also left the dowels in the freezer overnight, just a touch of oil, used my homemade starter punch, and they drove in very easily. Flywheel is now installed with new flywheel bolts, properly torqued to 177 in/lbs + 60 degrees.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/806/40405249204_813a4d9d8a_c.jpg

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I borrowed lift brackets from a friend so I was finally able to get the engine off the pallet. I may have to shorten those chains when I am putting it in the car to get enough height out of it. I put the motor on the fixed engine cradle I bought from https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/ so that I could drain the oil. Of course I then realized I bought the wrong cradle. It works great for the stock oil pan but it isn't going to clear the Moroso pan. I emailed Kurt asking if I could exchange it, hopefully that won't be an issue. For those looking for an engine cradle, the price and quality is right at Stumpy's. The model you want for the Coyote and the Moroso pan is the MOD-PAW - "W" for Wide.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/39347177170_08f4f12e32_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/39347546860_2001f11383_c.jpg


Curious about how you drilled out the head of the bolt to fit over the dowel pins. Did you put the bolt in a vice and use a drill press?

[shark92651]

Curious about how you drilled out the head of the bolt to fit over the dowel pins. Did you put the bolt in a vice and use a drill press?

That is exactly what I did. I have a drill press at work with a cross vise in it. You could probably do it easy enough with a bench vise and a hand drill if you use a center punch, then a small bit and work your way up to final size. I am not a big fan of drilling large holes in steel with a single bit. So much easier to work your way up from small bits to larger bits.

[RodneyArcher]

I like that alot. Very nice touch.

I am also running fog/driving lights in the same location. I will probably use a similar mounting bracket so thanks for the idea! Since my headlights have my DRLS I went with just the PIAA driving lights, spent way more than I should have but at this point I would hate to break tradition!

[shark92651]

I am also running fog/driving lights in the same location. I will probably use a similar mounting bracket so thanks for the idea! Since my headlights have my DRLS I went with just the PIAA driving lights, spent way more than I should have but at this point I would hate to break tradition!

I'll post more pics when I finish mounting them, but my plan is to do something similar to the mount for the radiator overflow tank. I will bend the aluminum supports under, and up behind the lower radiator support and through bolt it.

[shark92651]

Now that the back carpet is installed in the footbox, I could finish the dead pedal installation. I found that the top bolt was inaccessible behind the round tube once the carpet was installed, so I installed a rivet nut instead so I could run a bolt in from the backside. I powder coated it black and I bought a piece of 3M textured, rubberized anti-slip mat from McMaster and cut a piece to fit over the face of the pedal. I think it turned out pretty nice.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47969140693_5f2cd47abf_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47969271017_d6d1994583_c.jpg


This morning I had some time so I opened up the cutouts for the side louvers and for the quickjack grommets. The louver cutouts are fairly straight, but I think I will leave the final adjustment up to the painter. This weekend I hope to get the adhesive mount studs in place to finish the louver install.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47967893727_aa20b70c19_c.jpg

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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47969179791_626a65ef48_c.jpg

[shark92651]

After searching and seeing what others have done for the "Kleiner Mod" on the license plate holder/lights, and since I am going all LEDs on this build, I ordered a pair of the "bolt LEDs" from superbrightled.com. Part# MAL-S-WW2, which is the 3000K temperature lights. They arrived yesterday so last night I started to work on it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47979927688_3762e66e9a_c.jpg

Here is the part as supplied by FFR. First thing I did was drill out all the rivets and remove the "bridge" and the existing incandescent lamps and contacts. I marked the base of the bridge at it's original position, and after some careful measuring, I determined I could move it up .22" after flipping it over without affecting the position of the post. I then put a piece of painters tape on it and marked where to drill new 1/8" holes in the base so that I could rivet it into place using the existing holes on the bridge. When I peeled up the painters tape the cheap chrome finish peeled off with it. Oh well, I covered the whole face of it with some sealing tape, which covers the left over holes anyway. I used some Clecos to hold the bridge in place temporarily.

At first I thought about just making a whole new bridge from some of my scrap aluminum, but I decided that was too much work. After looking at it a bit I figured that I could just use the existing holes for the incandescent lamps if I add some 1/4" washers on either side to span the existing, larger holes. I don't think it turned out too bad. I'll add a piece for mounting the license plate and cut a notch in the plastic lens later when I am ready to mount it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47979896482_a473242992_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47979893818_c6db6bfd14_c.jpg

[shark92651]

This morning before it got too hot I fitted the headlights, turn signals, and brake lights. For headlights I bought the United Pacific 31391. I like the retro look of them and they get good reviews for the light pattern and brightness. The FFR manual does a pretty good job of describing the assembly, but it is a little confusing until you start playing with it and then it makes sense. I took some good pics in case anyone finds it useful.

Here is a shot of one of the buckets after fitting the grommet, the H4 plug assembly, and a weatherpack on the other end.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47979996692_5002ff6666_c.jpg


I did have to drill larger holes for the plastic bosses where the adjustment screws go, and also for the 5 mounting holes. Fortunately the main cutout was large enough from FFR to fit the bucket. I don't like the idea of using the supplied screws to mount the bucket to the body so I used some of my favorite SS 10-32 torx button head screws and nylon locknuts I have used throughout my build.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47980084451_86e4ae0068_c.jpg


Here is a pic with the headlight with the mounting ring and spring clip installed. The three small tabs FFR supplies to hold the ring to the headlight worked perfectly with these headlights.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47980053166_8d1038c886_c.jpg


And finally a shot of all the lights up front - I like the look of these headlights. I had to enlarge the bolt holes and open up the center hole for the turn signals and rear lights in order to get them to fit flush (well as flush as they get). A small drum sander on a hand drill takes off the fiberglass pretty easily.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47980054676_43f55ded2d_c.jpg


I thought this was a neat shot of the inside and it shows how long I left the leads.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47980056031_af0e27b614_c.jpg


And finally a shot of the rear with all lights installed.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47980003992_e927ddba51_c.jpg

[shark92651]

This weekend I worked on my trunk liner. I liked the way Papa's trunk turned out so I ordered some of the same material, the Stinger STLBLK Car Audio Trunk Liner Black Carpet 54" x 5 Yards from hifisoundconnection.com. I picked up a couple cans of 3M Super 90 from Lowes to use as adhesive.

The first thing I did was make a pattern out of some craft paper from the office. I cut a piece that was just over half the width of the trunk and took measurements of the location of the tabs for the racing harness and the roll bar stubs and transferred that to the paper. After a test fit and satisfied with the template, I traced it onto another piece of craft paper, mirrored it, and then put both pieces into the trunk and taped them together with some painters tape. I repeated this until I had a single pattern for the entire floor of the trunk, all the way down to the horizontal piece under the top quick-jack location. I placed the pattern onto the trunk material and traced it out with some more painters tape, and carefully cut it out with my shop shears. I just made slits in the material for the harness tabs and cut out the roll bar holes with an X-ACTO knife.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48041331657_0614450e8c_c.jpg

I adhered the material to the floor in sections, starting at the top around the harness tabs and the roll bar stubs. I worked my way down from there. I was hoping to do the entire floor in a single piece, but because the material stretches a bit as it is installed and smoothed out, I made a cut at the bottom of where the trunk drops down to the lower section. I then started at the bottom of the trunk and worked my way up to where it meets the top piece where I had cut it. It's kind of tricky to get this glued down without the seams showing too much, but I think it turned out pretty nice.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48041333197_8b2a5197d6_c.jpg

Here is a shot of the finished product, less the trunk sides which I still have to work on. I had to cut a separate piece of material to go down the left and right sides, and the floor of my dropped trunk, but I was able to get the seams to meet up pretty well.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48041333762_875f6c29aa_c.jpg

I was planning to cover my removable panels with some more of the same material, but I had some more of that textured, rubber anti-skid mat I had bought to cover my dead pedal and decided that it would look cool on top of my access panels instead. Not only does it look cool, but it has a bit more of a low profile using that material as well.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48041271683_cd4e0a6f6f_c.jpg

[shark92651]

One more touch on the trunk. I found an "open box" Hexomat trunk mat for a Smart Car fortwo at a great price on eBay, so I picked it up and cut it to fit the dropped trunk. The Hexomat is sort of like a Weathertech in that the hex cells can hold spilled liquids.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48043895387_891bf0a0aa_c.jpg

[shark92651]

Today I "worked from home" for awhile and then got to work on my build. It's amazing how much work you can get done when you don't show up for work ;)

Today's main project was to get the Herculiner undercoating on the body. I am going on vacation next week and would really like to get the body back on before I leave. I masked off all the openings and used 2" masking tape around the wheel well openings and 1" around the louver and side pipe openings at the request of Kleiner. This look OK to you Jeff?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052332011_27af0f62f0_c.jpg

I started with a brush around all the small openings and areas that are hard to roll and then rolled on a coat, waiting a couple hours, and rolled on a second. Here is the finished product.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052379558_6bdae9733c_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052380068_548dcc6b6f_c.jpg


Earlier in the week I installed the adhesive mount studs for my louvers. I used Bondo glass reinforced filler on them - not the easiest stuff to work with. I learned real quick not to use too much hardener, which I did my first attempt, but they are really on there well now.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052422602_fa3c85ee8d_c.jpg


I also went ahead and brushed some Herculiner on the underside of my trans tunnel cover to protect the Lizard Skin heat and sound that I applied on there rather liberally.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052425222_f6d23ba7d9_c.jpg

[shark92651]

After a bit of research I decided to pick up a JLT catch can. According to what I read the passenger side gets the most benefit for this on the Gen2 Coyote so that is what I bought. This was probably the simplest project on the entire car so far. Took all of 30 seconds to install.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48052159311_d3eff23b4d_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I finished up the sides and back of the trunk tonight so here is a pic of the entire completed trunk. I spent more time on this than I thought I would, especially for the rear where it probably won't be seen but I figured if I was going to cover it I better finish it now before the body is on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48059179068_852d10648e_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I got my roll bars and LeMans gas cap back from the metal polisher this afternoon - they turned out real nice. My friend did a great job on the welds.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48062491461_123fce7b30_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48062546558_50ff3ea7c3_c.jpg

[shark92651]

This morning my brother and a friend came over and we got the body back on, hopefully for the last time (by me at least). I did my best to make sure it is aligned but the description in the manual about how to check if it is in proper orientation is a little confusing to me. The quick jack bolts are in front and rear, the brackets that attach to the front of the frame and behind the turn signals are in place and making contact with the body. The hood opening seems basically centered on the top frame rails. One thing I notice is that the drivers side door hinge makes slight contact with the body, maybe about 1/8" overlap. The passenger side has about 3/16" of a gap at the same spot. Here are a few pics of these references. Does this look OK, do I need to shift the drivers side of the body slightly forward to clear, or is this just a matter of adjusting the hinge position? Are there any key reference points I should look at?

Driver side door rear

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067653536_5e28957548_c.jpg


Passenger side door rear

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067707708_ae1f63139e_c.jpg


Driver side door hinge

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067734817_51de3878af_c.jpg


Passenger side door hinge

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067685003_352823a625_c.jpg


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067688423_96ccf948f6_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067741167_864bb4cc37_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48067741817_b0200241c1_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

You want the flange of the door jamb to be ahead of the striker tab. It looks like you may need to take the body forward but can't tell from the photos you have---Give us pictures of the body to striker tab more from the sides, not straight on.

Jeff

[shark92651]

You want the flange of the door jamb to be ahead of the striker tab. It looks like you may need to take the body forward but can't tell from the photos you have---Give us pictures of the body to striker tab more from the sides, not straight on.

Jeff

Ok I see what you are saying. I pulled on it a bit and this is a shot from the top of the striker tabs looking down. This also allowed the drivers side hinge to clear the body by about 1/8"

Driver Side

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48068535101_45cf45f63b_c.jpg


Passenger Side

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48068536371_06faafc70e_c.jpg

Does this look better? Once I get it in the ideal position should I put a couple self-tappers underneath to keep it from moving before I start putting anything else on? Does the manual do a decent job of describing the order in which I should proceed from here?

[shark92651]

I tugged on it some more and I have about 5/16" from the edge of the body to the striker tab, at the bottom. At the top of the tab it's more like 3/16". The passenger side is about 3/8" at the bottom. Do you think this is good? Should I run a self-tapper under each side to keep it from moving before I do anything else?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48068983221_69bb707407_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

OK, I see what's happening...you have another thread going with the same photos and text. I thought the reply I made earlier was in that one and had somehow disappeared but I now see that it was here. Anyway, your latest photos show that you now have the body in a good place to start from---carry on!

Jeff

[shark92651]

OK, I see what's happening...you have another thread going with the same photos and text. I thought the reply I made earlier was in that one and had somehow disappeared but I now see that it was here. Anyway, your latest photos show that you now have the body in a good place to start from---carry on!

Jeff

Awesome, thanks!

[shark92651]

I'm going to be away from the garage for about 2 weeks for vacation (I would rather spend it IN the garage, but my wife has other plans) so this will be my last update for a bit. I didn't got a lot more done this weekend, but at least I got the body in a good position and did get a few items taken care of.

Since I had to remove the wheels to check the body position, I decided to go ahead and bolt on a few items in the front. I installed the lights and routed the cables in such a way that the area behind the brake ducts is fairly clear. One of the weatherpacks on the passenger side was being difficult and a pin got mangled, so I had to pull it out and put on another one. I have another in the rear that seems to have the same issue. Not that difficult to fix, if you have the terminal extractor tool, but still a pain.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079409582_10bc7c4625_c.jpg


I went ahead and installed the front overriders. These were easy, the ones in the rear are going to have to be drilled out and installed with a nut behind the plate since I used the coupling nut and threaded rod modification back there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079303836_f28c83fb95_c.jpg


I installed the louvers to check the fitment. I did have to adjust a couple of the brackets so that the louver fits flush against the body. This side doesn't look too bad, but the cutout doesn't look very straight to me, the passenger side is a bit worse. FFR didn't do a very good job cutting these out and I was constrained to fit around the holes they cut. There is still enough room to straighten these up and still have the top and bottom edge of the louvers slightly recessed behind the opening. I will ask the painter to clean these up for me.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079402497_3121b564a2_c.jpg

I installed the top cover on the DS footbox. Because of the body being in place I could not get a tool to one of the nutserts - you can barely see it to the left of the top screws. It's not that visible but I am thinking of installing a screw by hand and leave a small gap, and then notch that hole on the cover so that I can slip it under the head and then screw down all the others. We will see how OCD I am feeling next time I look at it ;)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079301296_52784f60c7_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I know I said I was done until after vacation, but I can't help myself. I finished up my oil cooler lights. I swear I am going to go start packing and stay out of the garage from here on out ;)

My original plan was to mount them to the bottom radiator support, but I just could not get it to fit without interference with my radiator aluminum, or exerting way more effort than I was willing to. So I went with plan B. I modified my brackets so that it will bolt to the bottom of the fiberglass under the oil cooler opening. It will be so low and far back the bolt heads will be well hidden. Here is the finished assembly after powder coat. I used some inexpensive 3" motorcycle LED lights I found on Amazon, along with 2 relays and weather packs. I wired them so that the round "halo" ring will illuminate when the ignition is on and will be daytime running lights. A flip of the switch I put on the dash will turn on the main fog lights in the center.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48082364578_3e60f0a332_c.jpg


Installed

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48082329636_48ea45a794_c.jpg


I went ahead and slipped my perforated hex screen in place to see what it will look like when complete. I think it turned out pretty nice, not too shabby for the $50 I put into it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48082330516_49814b6ec1_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I got back from vacation on Saturday and managed to still find time to work on the car a bit this weekend. I did some test fitting of the front splash guards and found out pretty quickly they would need some trimming. I went ahead and ordered 10' of the 1" bulb seal from McMaster before I went on vacation so it was waiting for me when I returned. After quite a bit of test fit, trim, fit again cycles I think I have them pretty well dialed in. I still need to trim a little bit off the bottom of the driver's side panel and is what the tape marker is for. I installed rivnuts in my F-Panels at the start of my build so once I had them pretty much in place, I used a center punch to mark the top and bottom holes and drilled those out, put in some bolts to hold it in place, and then marked the other holes. Even so some are still not starting easily so I will have to open up the holes a bit more. I am always afraid to use too much force with a rivnut for fear of spinning it loose. Before I button these up I am going to pull them out, along with the rear splash guards, and coat with some of my leftover Herculiner bed liner. I also need to make a couple brackets to secure the bottom since I cut off quite a bit from the bottom, including the existing tabs.

Drivers Side

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163986257_ec6e5786a1_c.jpg

Passenger Side

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163987452_f03bf949f3_c.jpg


I also worked on my threaded rod for my bumper overriders. Before vacation I ordered some stainless low-profile jamb nuts, stainless washers, and neoprene washers from McMaster. I used a "sandwich" of SS nut, SS washer, then neoprene washer both inside and out. I used two nuts jambed together to get the rod threaded into the coupler nuts, then tightened the nuts on either side of the body against each other. Once that was done, I placed the short pieces of the aluminum tube provided by FFR for the quick jack bolts on the rod, screwed a nut on to chase the threads, then marked and cut so 1" of threaded rod will extend beyond the tube and into the bumper overriders. I still have to drill out the threaded holes on the overriders to 1/2" diameter to slip over the rod and then secure with more SS nuts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163892196_fed554265f_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163972042_7a2e447d77_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163892196_fed554265f_c.jpg

The low profile nut between the tube and washer is unnecessary. On the exterior it will be body---rubber washer---steel washer---tube---bumper---spacer---nut and then the overrider. I have a thread with photos of the process posted here somewhere; I'll see if I can find and link it.

EDIT: Found it;

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/484642-rear-bumper-coupler-mod.html

Jeff

[shark92651]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48163892196_fed554265f_c.jpg

The low profile nut between the tube and washer is unnecessary. On the exterior it will be body---rubber washer---steel washer---tube---bumper---spacer---nut and then the overrider. I have a thread with photos of the process posted here somewhere; I'll see if I can find and link it.

EDIT: Found it;

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/484642-rear-bumper-coupler-mod.html

Jeff

That makes a lot of sense, simple enough to remove, thanks

[shark92651]

I made a little more progress so far this week. I drilled out the holes in the rear overriders. I bought, and destroyed, a 1/2" cobalt drill bit in the process but I manged to get all four holes opened up. The shape of the overriders makes it very difficult to secure them in my drill press vise so I ended up using a hand drill for most of the work. I secured using stainless nuts and lock washers. I used a standard open end wrench but I think a flex-head ratchet (which I don't have) would have made it a LOT easier to tighten down the nuts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48198737222_57b0a08d08_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48198693811_aac8c3d14b_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48198696776_24d968e3ce_c.jpg


I then mounted my gas cap. I set the angle of the cap so the latch would be at about the 4:00 position if the nose of the car is 12:00. This position seemed the best to me in order to allow the drain hole to be on the low side and for the latch to not get into the way of the gas nozzle when filling. I used the self-tapping screws to hold it temporarily, but have some stainless #8 oval head bolts and nylon lock nuts on order. I'm not a big fan of the self-tappers and have only used a couple on the build so far for ground wires. Speaking of grounding, I'll attach the ground strap when my new hardware comes in.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48198743177_69cd687ff7_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48198744277_5d73f80cd1_c.jpg


One other item I got done this morning is that I removed the 4x8 sheet of OSB from the bottom of my body buck and moved it to the top. I figure this new "table top" will be more useful while dealing with the large body panels and carpet trimming now that all the boxes that used to be on the shelf are now empty.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48198746532_f406d50393_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I placed the hood on the car yesterday as I think I will start to work on fitting that next. One thing I noticed right away is that it seems to be slipping down and overlapping with the body on the front and dropping down into the opening at the top. I assume this is just gravity at work but was wondering what is the best way to proceed. I want to take a minimum amount of material off the hood and leave final gapping to the painter. What is the best way to proceed? I was thinking about taping down some of the small bumpers on the side and top to raise the hood and maybe that would keep it from slipping down as much on the front. Do I need to have a small gap all around before I mount it to the hood hinges, or should I go ahead and mount the hood to the hinges and then take a little material off at a time until it closes properly all around? Any advice would be appreciated.


Front of Hood

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205878161_6b0762b77b_c.jpg


Rear of Hood

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48205876521_0f03a64904_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

The hood is too big for the hole and the hinges are misadjusted or the front of the body is too low---or both. You have my number.

Jeff

[shark92651]

The hood is too big for the hole and the hinges are misadjusted or the front of the body is too low---or both. You have my number.

Jeff

I just set it in the opening and not attached to the hinges at this point. I'll give you a call, thanks.

[shark92651]

While waiting for input on mounting the hood I decided to work on fitting the breeze roll bars. It took quite a bit of test fitting, opening up the holes with the drum sander, test fitting again, and on and on but I finally got the holes right to allow the bars to drop into place. I still need to finish up the passenger roll bar, but at least I have the process down now and should go quickly. Temps are approaching the mid 90's every day now in Texas and it is really limiting the amount of time I can spend in the garage on weekends now.

Previously I had done all the work to weld and test fit the bars before the body was on. I also had drilled all the bars and coupling tubes prior to body install as well. Turns out that wasn't the best idea because, as you can see, the hole I drilled for the rear leg is partially exposed above the body and trim rings after I got them in place. In hind sight I should have probably dropped the bars down another 1" onto the stub tubes, or drilled this hole left to right instead of front to rear, and then it would have cleared completely, but seeing as I have already drilled all the holes in the bars and tubes I am just going to make the best of it. My plan now is to use a torx button head bolt on the rear leg instead of the hex head I used on the front hoop. It will be partially exposed but shouldn't look too bad. I had wanted it to be completely clean without any bolts visible at all, but I guess I will just have to live with it. The other options I thought about to fix this are just going to be too much work.

The front hoop is not exactly the right width to slip onto the stub tubes easily so I used a ratcheting tie-down strap to slightly compress the hoop to get it to drop into place. It still needs a few taps with a rubber mallet but doesn't fight me too much.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48225462711_dda4900417_c.jpg

Another issue is that the rubber grommets for the trim rings are just not tight enough around the bars and leave gaps. I plan to buy a sheet of slightly thicker, weather-resistant rubber from McMaster Carr and cut my own grommets that fit tight around the bars to completely fill the gaps. Once I have the gaskets and new bolts ready, I will install the bars with the rear coupling tube and bolt them all down.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48225713482_94767df279_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48225436456_06075cf7b8_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I received the #8-32 x 3/4" SS oval head bolts, nylon locknuts, and washers on Saturday. These are perfect all the trim rings and the gas cap, if not a little short for the gas cap but they work. I swapped these for the self-tappers and also mounted the ground strap. I don't know why FFR supplies a ground strap with such ridiculously large rings and a huge washer. I cut those off and crimped on some smaller ring terminals I had on hand and mounted it with a 1/8" self tapper screw.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48225662541_8367bca3bf_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

The front hoop is not exactly the right width to slip onto the stub tubes easily so I used a ratcheting tie-down strap to slightly compress the hoop to get it to drop into place. It still needs a few taps with a rubber mallet but doesn't fight me too much...

How about getting it back off? A while back I had to break out my engine hoist to remove a Breeze bar that had sprung when the owner welded it :mad:

Jeff

[shark92651]

How about getting it back off? A while back I had to break out my engine hoist to remove a Breeze bar that had sprung when the owner welded it :mad:

Jeff

I used my jack to bend the front hoop when it was a bit undersized, now it is just a tad oversize. I have gotten it on and off a couple times by myself now. The ratchet strap idea worked pretty well to compress it just enough to get it on. They will probably require some encouragement with a rubber mallet but should come out without too much trouble.

[shark92651]

A quick shout out to Factory Five customer service for quickly sending me a replacement turn signal unit. I noticed that the lens on one of mine was pressed into the bezel at an angle and I could not get it to move when I tried to straighten it out myself. I sent a pic and email to Factory Five and Tony send me out a replacement right away.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48259297712_e333e73b36_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

The O rings are missing :p

Jeff (Captain O Ring)

[shark92651]

The O rings are missing :p

Jeff (Captain O Ring)

They are supposed to have O Rings? None of mine do. There is a flat rubber gasket on the back and another on the inside, but no O Rings.

[Jeff Kleiner]

They are supposed to have O Rings? None of mine do. There is a flat rubber gasket on the back and another on the inside, but no O Rings.

Ha! You haven't been around long enough to understand Grasshopper---ask Miller, he'll tell ya :)

Captain O

[shark92651]

Ahhh, forum inside joke ;)

[shark92651]

This weekend I worked on fitting the hood. As per the painter's instructions, my goal was to remove just enough material to get the hood to fit in the hole with operational hinges and latches, and then to let the painter do all the final gapping work. I was a little in the dark on how to get started, but after taking advise from others and reading some forum threads, this is how I proceeded.

First thing I did was to tape down the small bumpers all around the opening. At first I used some double-stick mounting tape but that didn't hold very well, so I later added another piece of painters tape on top. A also noticed some interference with my hood hinges so I loosened them and slid them back as far as they could go. I wanted to give some support to the hood and lift it all around so that I could tell when it was sitting into the hole properly. I felt that without the bumpers that gravity was causing the hood to slide down to the front of the car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48284880081_dba6f5e2d9_c.jpg


Next I laid the hood in the opening and centered it the best I could. It was obvious there was more clearance in the corners so I didn't want to take any material off of there at first. I marked the areas where the hood was too large for the opening with a sharpie and then ran a thin mark along the areas to sand so that I had a guide. I sanded each of these areas on all four sides of the hood until the sharpie mark was gone, and slightly blended the ends into the corners. I would then drop the hood in place, check clearance and mark more areas, and repeated this process several times.

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I hand sanded with a block and hook n loop sanding pads. I tried the sanding pad on my Milwaukee multi-tool, but it did not do a very good job. I briefly thought about picking up an orbital sander, but I just stuck with my hand block and 80-120 grit sand paper. After a few hours of sanding and testing I was satisfied with the way it fit in the hole.


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Next I riveted in the hood hinge brackets and the ball pivots for the hood struts. I found and marked the center of the hood, and again as per the advice of the painter, marked the location for the hood latches to be 13" from the center. I drilled the hole to 5/8" as per the FFR instructions and mounted the hood latches with the supplied self-tapping screws. As edwardb and others have pointed out, it isn't very sturdy and doesn't fill me with confidence that it will hold up for very long like this. I went ahead and ordered some nut plates and bronze bushings to improve this installation and will post more details when they come in and I have completed the latch installation.

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[shark92651]

I received the parts I ordered from McMaster to perform the hood latch mods others have done. I sent a PM to EdwardB and he informed me that he used a bushing with a 3/8" opening and filed down the edges of the square shaft on the latch for a tight fit, so that is what I did as well. I also ordered Nut Plates and bonded them underneath so that I could use 8-32 oval head machine screws rather than the self tapping screws provided. Like most everything, this was more work than I expected but I am glad that I did it and pleased with the results.

Parts I ordered from McMaster Carr:
98001A115 Low-Profile Narrow-Base Weld Nut, 8-32 Thread Size, Packs of 25
7815K23 Multipurpose Flanged Sleeve Bearing for 3/8" Shaft Diameter and 5/8" Housing ID, 3/4" Long


Here are all the parts prepped for installation. I ran a file along the corners of the latch post until it slid tightly into the bearings, I cut the bearings down to 1/4" length so there is no interference with the latch itself, and I drilled a couple extra holes into the nut plates to aid in bonding to the fiberglass.

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Here is a view from the top after all the work was done and waiting for the Bondo Glass to cure. You can see that I had originally mounted the latches with the screws in a front to rear orientation - that was a mistake, this is what happens when you get ahead of yourself and follow the manual on a task rather than checking the forums first. There is not enough room for the nut plates unless the screw holes go side to side on the hood. Oh well, I just sanded them down a bit and filled them in. Another thing you will notice is that the hole on the top is opened up to 7/8" whereas the one on the bottom is 5/8" as in the manual. I originally drilled both sides 5/8" but then opened up the top to 7/8" go give myself a bit more room to fit the nut plates in. Do yourself a favor and make those holes into slots as shown in EdwardB's thread - makes it a lot easier to install as you can just thread a bolt into the plate and then slide it right into place. I was trying to feed them in from underneath and had a heck of a time getting them in the right position to screw them down. Once again, if I had to do it over again I would slot them.

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Here is a shot from underneath that shows the nut plate being held in place with a bolt while the glass filler cures. I drilled a couple extra holes in each nut plate to allow the filler something else to grab onto.

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Here is the underside that shows the sleeve bearing after latch installation. After the Bondo Glass cured, I put a small fillet of JB weld around it and on the inside to help secure it. A couple notes on the bearing - first you need to cut it down to around 1/4" length to allow the latch to seat properly. Also, as the painter pointed on on Facebook, don't buy the oil impregnated ones if you intend to paint over it. Oil and paint don't mix so well ;)

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And finally here is a shot of the latches screwed down and the hood in place. Next up is the catches on the underside of the body, and yes I guess I will make my own with a curved recess so that the paddles "snap" into place. Can't leave well enough alone.

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[shark92651]

I got a few more items done since my last update. I went ahead and mounted the paddles and the catches for the hood latches. For now I decided to just use the supplied pieces and rounded the ends. I attached them pretty much the way the manual shows with the bolts through the bumpers. They seems to work just fine for now and I can always modify it later if I feel the need. The hood certainly isn't gapped very well and the front corner on one side is too high but I think I will leave all that for the painter to fix.

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I also got the trunk mounted. I took off just enough material to get it to fit - certainly a lot less work than the hood, but like the hood it doesn't sit flush on one side in the rear. I think it needs some more material taken off the top.

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I bought the trunk gas strut kit from replicaparts.com and got it mounted as per the instructions. It works very well, can't even close the trunk now as it will open it slightly when closed. I started to attach the latch but I feel I need to take my time to ensure I get the catch mounted in the right location. One thing I noticed is that the lip on the body at the bottom is lower on one side. I plan to level that lip and then figure out what sort of seal I am going to use around the trunk opening and make sure I have that in place before I mount the catch. The last thing I want to do is have it too tight or too loose in the final configuration. I have to get that done before I can close the trunk again, however. Anyone have any advice for me on this?

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[Jeff Kleiner]

...then figure out what sort of seal I am going to use around the trunk opening and make sure I have that in place before I mount the catch.... Anyone have any advice for me on this?

Best trunk seal both for fit and function is what Factory Five provided.

Jeff

[shark92651]

Best trunk seal both for fit and function is what Factory Five provided.

Jeff

Well that certainly makes it easy. I haven't even looked for that bulb seal yet but will check it out tonight. Thanks.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The fiberglass often gets kind of fat around the trunk opening so is frequently necessary to grind/sand down the underside of the body flange and/or spread the "U" channel of the seal so that it will slip on easily.

Jeff

[Ducky2009]

I got a few more items done since my last update. I went ahead and mounted the paddles and the catches for the hood latches. For now I decided to just use the supplied pieces and rounded the ends. I attached them pretty much the way the manual shows with the bolts through the bumpers. They seems to work just fine for now and I can always modify it later if I feel the need. The hood certainly isn't gapped very well and the front corner on one side is too high but I think I will leave all that for the painter to fix.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48355979346_84f29db43b_c.jpg


If you give the hood latch brackets a concave shape instead of flat (or convex/rounded shape like the manual shows), the hood latches will stay in a closed position without being locked. I started off rounding per the manual, and the latches would rotate to the open position. Needed to use the key/lock to keep the hood tightly closed.

[shark92651]

If you give the hood latch brackets a concave shape instead of flat (or convex/rounded shape like the manual shows), the hood latches will stay in a closed position without being locked. I started off rounding per the manual, and the latches would rotate to the open position. Needed to use the key/lock to keep the hood tightly closed.

I have seen others do something like that. I was thinking to just use the latches several times until I can see a mark on the paddle and then transfer the profile of the paddle at that point to the catches.

[shark92651]

Today I finally finished the mounting of the removable trans cover. I first aligned the side bars on the cover and clamped into place and then drilled some 1/8" holes through the cover, then opened up to 3/16". I then put the cover in place and drilled 3/16" holes through the side aluminum and frame rails. I used some of my 3/16" clecos to hold everything straight and square as I drilled

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Next I removed the cover and opened the holes up to 5/16" for the rivnuts. I used a 1/2" drill bit on top of that to shave down the lizard skin around the aluminum to make sure the rivnuts seat tight against the metal and compress properly.

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I decided to go ahead and install my shift boot as well. I disassembled the top of my shifter so that I could slip the boot over it. I laid out the shift boot the way I wanted it to sit, stretched it out and pressed small nails into each rivnut where I need to install a screw. I then used one of the cheap Harbor Freight hole punches I bought to punch out a hole in each location.

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And here is what it looks like so far. I am still undecided how to finish the side bars. At first I was planing to paint/powder coat them black but now I am leaning towards polishing them. I think I will switch to stainless oval head screws as well. What do you guys think, powder or polish?

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[Boydster]

Powder or polish? You could powder those strips as an accent color in the cockpit, maybe work it into your exterior scheme? Tie the inside and outside together a little? If you'd like it to match the other chrome / polish / stainless in the cockpit, then just polish em up.

Nice job installing them.

[shark92651]

Today I got the dual Breeze stainless roll bars and trim rings mounted. It was a bit of a struggle to get the stub tubes on the rear legs into place but I finally manged to get them both on, along with the trim rings.

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I also got my license plate light/bracket mounted, just need to run the wiring through the trunk and wire it up. I was thinking of using a couple small spade connectors so that it can be easily removed for painting. I also learned that it's normal for the hump to be off center from the pre-cut holes for the trunk latch :confused:

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[shark92651]

This afternoon I got the windshield installed with the help of my son. It was not without incident, as usual. I manage to strip one of the threaded holes in the brass insert on the drivers side. It certainly doesn't take much to strip it, it seems I was barely turning it and none of them seem to fit very tight - gaps at the top. I guess I will go ahead and pester Whitby's to fill my order and I'll have the painter swap them out for the SS inserts when he has to pull the windshield back off. From the advice I received in my other thread, I measured down 13" from the bottom screw hole and marked the side bars and then cut the excess off at a 45 degree angle with my angle grinder. Once I got enough of the openings in the body opened up for the windshield to fit properly, measuring 27" from the top of the body above doors to the top screw, I reached in and marked the holes. I pulled it back out again, center punched them, and used a series of drill bits to get it up to the 27/64 bit and then tapped the holes to 1/2" - 13. When I installed the bolts I found that the drivers side was flush to the body mount but there was a small gap on the passenger side, and I used a couple 1/2" washers (about 1/8" thick) as spacers and then tightened everything down. I still need to square and clean up the windshield rubber and get the trim rings mounted, but otherwise I am done with this for now.

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[shark92651]

This morning I got my front radiator aluminum installed as well. I bought the piece from Mike at replicaparts.com and also the top piece from Breeze Automotive. I had the large radiator piece powder coated a satin black several months ago along with some other parts, while the Breeze piece comes already powder coated. After some careful measuring it seemed that the front aluminum was going to be just a bit too tight. I briefly though about changing the angle of the radiator, but I decided that just trimming the aluminum would be a lot easier. I removed the bulb seal from the inside edge, marked it with tape and trimmed about 1/2" off the bottom and sides, tapering to the point at the top where the piece is riveted into place.

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Here is a shot from inside showing the seal of the top aluminum piece. I put a piece of bulb seal on it and it seals it up quite nicely.

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Because I have already (roughly) mounted the hood, I could not get to all the rivet holes I had drilled earlier before I installed the body. I did manage to get 3 rivets installed on each side, which will hold it just fine for now, and I will ask the painter to install the last few rivets when he has the hood and body off for paint.

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[shark92651]

Yesterday I got both of the doors fitted and the latches installed. For now I am using stacks of washers and standard hex nuts on the plungers. Later, I plan to dress that up with some spacers cut to length and some cap nuts.

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I did have a bit of a time getting the driver's side door mounted. I started another thread in the Roadster forum and posted quite a few pics there. I got some great advice and was able to get the door hung fairly well. No need to repeat that info so I'll just link to that thread here: Need advice on fitting the @#$!$ drivers side door and latch (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33110-Need-advice-on-fitting-the-!-drivers-side-door-and-latch)

I ended up using the laser cut spacer on the driver's side and also had to elongate the slot in the striker plate by about 1/8". The passenger side was a breeze to install in comparison. No spacer was needed so in order to allow clearance for the carriage bolt mod on the latches, I marked the fiberglass and then opened up the existing hole with a drum sander. Here is the "before photo" (I forgot to take an after, but you get the idea).

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I installed the check straps as well. The manual calls for rivets but I prefer making things removable if possible. I want to pull these back off later to dye them black anyway. I used 10-32 SS bolts and nylon locknuts to mount to the door hinge and I drilled/tapped the 2x2 frame rails for the same 10-32 SS bolts.

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[shark92651]

Next up was the trunk and I got it mostly done this morning. Like most of the body panels, it ain't perfect but it closes and latches tight. I'm hoping my painter pro can straighten up all the gaps for me.

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The lip on the body at the bottom of the trunk was not cut very straight so I spent a fair bit of time sanding that until it was even all the way across. I then went ahead and mounted the bulb seal and the catch. That paper in my trunk is the template I created for cutting out the carpet. I decided to just leave it in place as a protector so that the carpet won't get too dirty during all the body work.

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[Jeff Kleiner]

...For now I am using stacks of washers and standard hex nuts on the plungers. Later, I plan to dress that up with some spacers cut to length and some cap nuts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48506096307_4f4e851010_c.jpg




If you're talking about the stack of washers shown in the photo...and intend to send the car here for body & paint...don't bother with making spacers because when all is said and done there's about a 90% chance that things will change once the doors and body positions are finalized.

Jeff

[shark92651]

If you're talking about the stack of washers shown in the photo...and intend to send the car here for body & paint...don't bother with making spacers because when all is said and done there's about a 90% chance that things will change once the doors and body positions are finalized.

Jeff

Absolutely, i plan on that being one of my "back from paint" projects

[shark92651]

Yesterday I got both of my side pipe holes opened up and the pipes mounted. Since I chose the factory hole cutout option, I already had a hole there that followed the shape of the template in the manual so I decided it was best to stick with that basic shape. I rested the side pipes on my jack with a moving blanket underneath to protect it and put it into position. On the driver's side I could tell right away I needed to cut out quite a bit more on top and towards the rear. I couldn't even get close to putting the top bolt in. I printed and cut out the paper template from the manual and used that as a guide. I marked it short of where the final hole needed to be and taped the template in place. I had to mark the top and side, and then move the template to alight the other vertical, and finish marking it. I made the long straight cuts with my dremel, cutting diagonals near the corners. I then shaped the corners with a drum sander on my drill and then test fitted the pipe again. I had to do this about 3 times on each side in order to get to the final shape. I ended up with about 1/2" on the sides and about 3/4" on the top.

Here are a couple shots of the driver's Side. This pipe seems to be hanging perfectly to me. It is fairly parallel to the body and the ground. At first I was concerned because the top bolt was extended beyond the cutout and it would most certainly hit the body when the engine moves. I then remembered I hadn't put my splash guard back in place. Once I put that back in, the bolt head clears the body so that will not be an issue any more.

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Here is the passenger side. I measured this side and found that it hung down about 3/4" lower, and the tip extends out about 1 3/4" further than the DS. I loosened all four bolts and lifted the tip of the pipe, rotating it against the bolts, and then held that position with my jack and re-tightened all of the bolts. After doing this, the height is now perfect so I think I can get by with a single wedge spacer to bring the tip in 1.5".

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[shark92651]

Last night I also finished up the wiring for the license plate light. I searched the forums to see how others routed the wiring and this is the position I ended up with. I like this spot because it is close to where I brought the wire loom up through the trunk floor and I can just zip-tie it to the hinge to keep it neat. You can shine a bright flashlight through the fiberglass to see where the metal plate is to make sure you can avoid it. I had some left over grommets from my wiring and found one that slipped over the wire loom and used that to determine what size hole to drill. My grommets don't work very well on the thick fiberglass so I kind of cut slits on the back of it and shoved it in the best I could. I'll try to find a more suitable grommet and replace this one after paint.

I pulled a single wire out of some Romex home wiring cable I had on hand and used that to fish from the hole I drilled up to the trunk opening. This wire is stiff enough to fish easily, yet flexes better than a coat hanger would. I found that it only needed to go about 1/2 way up the hood before it found an opening and then arched over to the hole.

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I used a couple of those "license bolt" LEDs in my modified license plate holder so I twisted the leads together and put a bit of heat-shrink on each to keep them together. I used some of the small spade connectors on each so that they can be easily removed for paint or bulb replacement.

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[shark92651]

Today I got the seats secured. I am using the Breeze seat brackets which provide a little bit of recline and adjust-ability, although I doubt I will ever move them from the rear most position. The lower bracket is riveted to the floor and frame members using 1/8" and 3/16" rivets, depending on whether you are drilling into a frame member or just the aluminum floor.

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I also used the supplied boards which are supposed to give a bit more thigh support and prevent the foam from pressing down between the seat frame rails. The instructions called for the board to extend 3 1/2" beyond the front frame rail, but I found that was not going to work with my leather seats. I don't know if it is because the way the leather wraps on the sides prevents the board from moving forward or what, but I ended up setting it at 2". I sprayed the boards with a water seal product as the instructions recommended, and I had to drill a hole to allow me to pass my seat heater wires through.

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It's nice to have the seats finally secured. I'm about ready to take my first ride with the body on.

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[shark92651]

I ordered a side-pipe adjustment wedge from Breeze last week and it came in this weekend so I went ahead and installed it. I bought the 1-1/2" wedge and another gasket. This worked great to bring the passenger side pipe in and parallel to the body. The driver's and passenger sides are within 1/4" of each other now. In order to get the nuts to engage I needed slightly longer bolts so I picked up some 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" stainless socket head bolts at Lowes.


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I went ahead and installed the front splash guards on both sides now that the pipes are in place. I made the splash guards removable with some 10-32 rivnuts on the F-panels. I still need to make some tabs to lock them down to the body at the bottom since I had to trim them quite a bit to fit the way I like.

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[shark92651]

I also got the wind wings, sun visors, and mirrors installed today. When I first started researching for my build I decided I wanted all these options. The wind wing mounted side-view mirrors and the windshield mounted rear-view mirror with the bracket from Dark Water Customs were recommended by several as providing superior visibility to the stock mirrors and location on the body. Besides, there are a few less holes to put in the body and I really like they way they look.

The wind wings were pretty easy to assemble and install on the windshield side bars. The sun visors had me a little concerned as the brass is easy to strip and I read that the screws can bottom out on the glass. I test fitted all the screws with the brackets and it did not feel to me like anything was bottoming out. I installed the screws until I could just feel some resistance, just snug. In each case the bracket felt secure so I felt pretty good about it. I then removed the screws one at a time and put a little blue loctite on each one and reinstalled.

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The rear-view bracket from Dark Water was a completely different story, however. At first I tried to use the supplied hex nuts but I just could not get them to hold securely. At first I tried using the end of a small screwdriver to keep the nut from turning while tightening, but that didn't work very well and the bracket was still loose. Also, the supplied screws were bottoming out on the metal inside the windshield frame. I took a look at EdwardB's thread and saw that he used some rectangular nut plates to install his. I have some 8-32 nut plates left over from my hood latch installation so I cut those down and drilled/tapped them to 5mm - .80 to match the supplied screws. I used my dremel to cut off both sides of the nut plates and my grinder with a flap disk. I had to take some material off the top and bottom, and also reduce the thickness to get it to slide into the frame. I also had to take a bit off the length of the screws to keep them from bottoming out. It sure is a lot of work to have to make your own nuts ;)

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[shark92651]

I pulled my seats again to install the anti-submarine belts (should have planned ahead and done this when I riveted in the seat bracket). I drilled a 1/2" hole through the bottom seat bracket and through the floor and attached with the supplied hardware. Hopefully the next time I pull the seats will be after paint when I am installing the carpet.

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[shark92651]

When I tried to install my side pipe hangers I could tell there was a problem. This is the PS pipe after I installed a wedge spacer to bring the pipe in 1 1/2". I still need to bring the tip in another 1/2" to match the DS, but even so you can see that the hanger is a bit high, nearly touching the body, and a bit too far to the outboard. The DS actually made contact with the body and I need to allow for some movement. I don't know if this is an issue with the way my engine is sitting in the mounts, or just the combination of parts I am using or what, but I didn't not want to mess with the engine or mounts so the fix would have to be with the hanger itself.

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The fix I decided on was to make a small extension bracket to bring the hangers down and in to the proper position. I brought home a piece of Kydex plastic from work and used that to make a template. I bolted it to the pipe tab and just held the hanger up to it in the best position and marked it for holes. I then shaped it and used the template to transfer the outline to a piece of 2" x 3/16" steel bar I picked up at Home Depot. I then powder coated them gray. I would have preferred silver but I had the gray on hand and this will not be very visible anyway. I ended up with a basically triangular shape as I will only use a single bolt on the pipe tab in order to allow movement - from reading the forums this seemed to be a common recommendation to prevent cracking around the tab.

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For mounting the rubber hanger and the pivot, I went with 5/16-18" rivnuts to work with the supplied hardware. I didn't want to through bolt into the floor and I had picked these up at the start of the build just for this purpose anyway.

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And here is the DS installed. It allows 1/2" clearance between the body and the top of the hanger. I also installed a stainless washer between the bracket and the tab to facilitate movement. I'll install the PS after I get that last 1/2" wedge installed.

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[shark92651]

Thanks to a tip from Jeff Kleiner, I made up some Vinegaroon and turned my check straps black tonight. Vinegaroon is basically just vinegar with dissolved/rusted steel wool in it. It causes a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather that turns it black. Unlike dye it will not rub off and it doesn't change the color of the threads so it makes for a cool look. Literally took 30 seconds to do and no stained fingers.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48627922287_2dc71d2ba5_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48627772381_d7f1ea038c_c.jpg


https://www.instructables.com/id/Vinegaroon-Black-Leather-Dye/

[DavidW]

Thanks to a tip from Jeff Kleiner, I made up some Vinegaroon and turned my check straps black tonight. Vinegaroon is basically just vinegar with dissolved/rusted steel wool in it. It causes a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather that turns it black. Unlike dye it will not rub off and it doesn't change the color of the threads so it makes for a cool look. Literally took 30 seconds to do and no stained fingers.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48627922287_2dc71d2ba5_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48627772381_d7f1ea038c_c.jpg


https://www.instructables.com/id/Vinegaroon-Black-Leather-Dye/

Thats awesome, I'm doing that. I never liked the tan leather strap, a chemistry experiment for the family what awesome fun!

[shark92651]

Aside from just a couple loose ends (notably wipers, PS pipe hanger, wheel spinners, and undercoating my splash guards) I have a completed gelcoat driver! I just contacted my insurance company and will begin the process of insurance, title, and registration and enjoy it like this until Kleiner can work it into the schedule for paint.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48672776327_c5f1475ba6_c.jpg

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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48674167178_1565254613_c.jpg

[chmhasy]

I too will be running it in gel coat. I have been following a guy on youtube called boat works today https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0kDqq-pSzdqFUk3oTaHBuA to learn how to sand and polish the gelcoat. so I bought some red gelcoat from http://www.mertons.com/index.html in Mass 113707

[KDubU]

Congrats on getting her there! She looks great now enjoy as much driving as you can the remains in the year.

[shark92651]

On Saturday I got the wipers installed, which is something I needed to finish before inspection. In hindsight I probably should have just gone with some temporary clip-on wipers, but I bought these when I ordered the kit so I was going to install them. They were pretty straight forward to install following the instructions, but I do have a few tips. The holes are drilled at a pretty steep angle and to a size of 5/8". At first I tried to use the jig they provide while drilling. I found that that size bit was just grabbing too much on the jig or the body itself and was not working very well. I was hoping to find a 5/8" hole saw at Home Depot, but they don't sell one that small. In the end I just used the jig to mark the starting location with a Sharpie and then used a smaller bit, holding the drill next to the jig to approximate the angle. After I got a small hole started I used a step-bit up to 1/2", and clamped the jig back in place and ran the 5/8" bit to set the final size of the hole. With a 1/2" "pilot" hole already in place the 5/8" bit ran just fine in the jig.

I gave up trying to flare that stainless tubing they provide. It was just way too hard and my only attempt to flare it ended up with a lopsided flare. This was using the Eastwood flaring tool I borrowed from a friend. I ditched the stainless, went to Autozone and picked up a piece of the basic steel 5/16" tubing and flared that easily.

Another thing that wasn't completely obvious to me at first is that when you are ready to install the cable in the wheelboxes, you really need to remove the wheelboxes from the body and feed the cable into them while putting the tubing in place. At first I thought it just snapped into place but that doesn't work, at least not for me. And finally I did use a torch and bent the arms just a bit to bring the wipers down and more parallel with the base of the windshield. They work, but they don't really feel like quality wipers to me and in the end I'll probably rely more on Rain-X than the wipers.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48705486317_7d87a11fb9_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48705487337_d4fc050f24_c.jpg

[BadAsp427]

Looks great.... as you drive it in Gel-Coat, you will find little things that need to be tweaked. You'll be glad you are not painted yet. Your body looks really good as well. Now go put some miles on it.

[shark92651]

Looks great.... as you drive it in Gel-Coat, you will find little things that need to be tweaked. You'll be glad you are not painted yet. Your body looks really good as well. Now go put some miles on it.

Appreciate the comments. I have insurance and just picked up my temp 30 day tag and taking it for an alignment and inspection on Friday. Hopefully I will be done with the entire title/registration process soon.

[shark92651]

This morning I took the car to an ASE Master Technician for the inspection and alignment. This was the first time I took the car outside of my neighborhood and wouldn't you know it that on the way home a guy in a BMW wanted to race already :D Now I have to find somewhere to get a weight certification, fill out a few other forms, and then get it to the Tax office and hopefully I can get this baby titled and registered.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48728046096_8e069dfbf6_c.jpg

[shark92651]

Despite all my efforts to insulate my foot boxes, floor, and firewall, a lot of heat is coming in from the gap between the body and the top and sides of the footboxes. Today I pulled off all my wheels and removed all my splash guards (again, I hope for the last time for awhile). I also removed my louvers so that I could get better access to block this air path. I bought some black pool noodles online and cut then into appropriately sized pieces and shoved them in to fill the gaps the best I could. I put a light in the seat shining towards the front to more easily spot the gaps. I blocked the gaps on both sides and, as you can see, it should be a lot cooler in there now. This is just temporary as Kleiner is going to install some better insulation in this area before he re-installs the body after paint.

Before

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48739954136_b883565fd7_c.jpg

After

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48739955141_26d3c8da8f_c.jpg

[shark92651]

There are few "finishing touches" I can do before paint, but I went ahead and installed the steering wheel badge. I did as others suggested and drilled a small hole above the o-ring to relieve air pressure if I have the need to pry it off later. Looks good :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48739629213_d63824d863_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I pulled all my splash guards and painted them with 2 coats of my leftover Herculiner bed liner. I taped the edges where the bulb seal goes so it would be easy to re-install it. You can also see the filler panels I fabricated to fill the gaps between the body and frame in front of the rear wheels. I intend to secure my filler panels with rivets once the vehicle comes back from paint, but just holding them in place with self-tappers for now so will be easy to remove until then. The main front and rear splash panels are all removable via 10-32 rivnuts. I'm glad to finally be done with these as I probably spent more time screwing around with these panels than all the other panels in the entire build combined!

All panels coated

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48749218466_0882b64092_c.jpg


PS Front Splash Guard Installed

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48749220361_d3db62ac49_c.jpg


PS Rear Filler Panel

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48751457948_d06549edca_c.jpg


PS Rear Splash Guard Installed

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48751975187_6d30321eb7_c.jpg

[shark92651]

This is how I decided to secure the center hubs for the fake wingnuts on the Halibrand wheels. I drilled and tapped three 8-32 holes in the hubs and secured them from the inside with 1/2” long set screws and a drop of blue locktite. I considered drilling and tapping through the outside of the wheel but decided I like this approach better. I also put some anti-seize on the wingnuts before tightening them just snug. The set screws should provide plenty of resistance to avoid a situation where the hub just spins when trying to remove a stuck spinner (I hope!)

Before re-installing the wheels I made sure all the suspension bushings and ball joints had plenty of grease, re-installed the wheels and torqued them down to 90 ft lbs.

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[shark92651]

I went ahead and riveted on the F5R name plate. After input from others I decided to put it on top of the passenger side footbox.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48766485973_4079a193fe_c.jpg

[shark92651]

This morning I took a short road trip, about 50 miles in total, to go get a weight certification. It was the first time I've had her up to highway speeds, around 80 most of the way and it was a blast. It was a good opportunity to shake things out, and quite literally I did shake something loose - one of the nuts on the driver's side door hinge came loose and fell off - guess I forgot to tighten that one. Otherwise it was pretty uneventful, but a blast to drive! I like my choice of the .64 5th gear as it cruises right along at 80 mph at 2500 rpm.

The car weighs in at 2360 with a full tank of gas and is pretty well balanced. I have all my paperwork in order and will go to the tax office next week to hopefully get title, registration, and tags.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48770990901_a6d8c0559d_c.jpg


I took a couple more photos in the driveway when I got home. Here is the current state of the car at this point. I've pretty much done about all I can do until body work and paint, other than go out and have fun!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48771656003_30c1f70fa0_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48770634448_5a1b0bbf7a_c.jpg

[shark92651]

This past Monday I took all my paperwork to the county tax office and got everything submitted to get my title, registration, and tags. I did all my homework up front so was able to get out of there in about 20 minutes with my registration sticker and 60 day temp paper tags. They said I should expect to receive my title and permanent license plate in about 3-4 weeks.

I also finished up my "Kleiner modded" license plate holder. I found that I needed just a bit more room to get the plate to fit without touching the trunk latch so I removed everything and cut a couple notches in the bottom of the "bridge" that holds the lights to allow the plates to slip all the way up into the holder. I also opened up the mounting holes in the trunk just a bit so that I could bring the entire unit up just a bit and that allows it to fit so I shouldn't have to modify the plate itself at all. For a plate mount I purchased an inexpensive license plate blank on Amazon and modified it to fit. I cut a notch in the top to clear the light housing and secured it to the license plate holder with some #10 flathead screws cut down to about 1/4" length so that they will not touch the trunk. I also drilled some access holes in it so that the entire unit can be easily removed from the trunk without removing the plate mount.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48798428906_798d7281a9_c.jpg

[extradc]

This morning I took a short road trip, about 50 miles in total, to go get a weight certification. It was the first time I've had her up to highway speeds, around 80 most of the way and it was a blast. It was a good opportunity to shake things out, and quite literally I did shake something loose - one of the nuts on the driver's side door hinge came loose and fell off - guess I forgot to tighten that one. Otherwise it was pretty uneventful, but a blast to drive! I like my choice of the .64 5th gear as it cruises right along at 80 mph at 2500 rpm.

The car weighs in at 2360 with a full tank of gas and is pretty well balanced. I have all my paperwork in order and will go to the tax office next week to hopefully get title, registration, and tags.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48770990901_a6d8c0559d_c.jpg


I took a couple more photos in the driveway when I got home. Here is the current state of the car at this point. I've pretty much done about all I can do until body work and paint, other than go out and have fun!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48771656003_30c1f70fa0_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48770634448_5a1b0bbf7a_c.jpg

This is great. I'm only about 2 (2 and a half) years behind you. :)

[shark92651]

The stock Wilwood pedal pads weren't really working out for me and I wanted a bit more room to reach my dead pedal. After seeing what others had done I decided I wasn't crazy about the look after cutting them down so I decided to order the bolt on AC Cobra pedals from Mike Forte. The pedals are a little too thick for the rubber inserts to hold properly in place so I used a couple drops of super glue under each one and attached the center cover with a bit of leftover silicon caulk. I like the look and feel of these pedals, they are quality parts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48818126657_a33c7a7bc3_c.jpg

[shark92651]

A couple weeks ago I ordered an nGauge unit and custom tune from Lund Racing. Several people on the forums have recommended them so I felt it was a good choice. I'm optimistic that the custom tune will optimize the engine performance and I will feel it was worth the investment. I am about 1/2 way done with the turning process at this point. The Lund tuner asked me a few questions as to parts in my build (air intake, exhaust, fuel pump size) and asked for a photo of my intake. He asked me about a "PATS delete" and I had to Google that. I think is an anti-theft system but I don't know if that is even present in the crate motor and control pack. He then asked me about if I "locked the IMRC open", again I had to go to Google. I believe that has to do with the CMVC system and I told him it was plumbed as normal but I have no idea if/how it functions on the crate motor. He asked me to perform a "read vehicle" function and send him the file. He then informed me that it looks like the IMRC is "locked open" with the stock tune, I have no idea if that is correct or not but I'll trust his knowledge on this. He also sent me a base tune which I flashed to the PCM. I then performed the requested data logging at idle, holding engine at various RPM, and then performing slow RPM climbs on the street and sent the data logs over the weekend. This morning, they send me an "R2" tune which I have loaded. They now want me to perform the same data logging as before but add in a WOT from 2,500 to 5,000 RPM and then send the logs again. I will keep you posted as to my results. So far I must say I am impressed with their quick turn around and customer service.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48822694587_c1bf8b7afb_c.jpg

[Cruzzz]

Looking good! I also installed the Forte billet pedals. Nice product. Even with them the brake and gas pedal were a little too close so I move the brake and clutch pads over by using only the right most screw holes in the pads and the left most holes in the Wilwood arms. Very solid and much better spacing.

[shark92651]

I picked up a small H3R Hal Guard fire extinguisher and a billet bracket from Eddit Motorsports. The bracket is is quite a bit cheaper than the one from H3R and I like the look of it. It is advertised as for 2.75" cylinders and the small H3R is 2.6". I bought it anyway as I figured I could use a wrap or two of electrical tape or a piece of rubber to fill the gap. In the end, it clamps down tight on the cylinder without doing anything so that was a nice surprise. I mounted it on the rear wall above the U-Joint cover. At first I thought I could get the bracket to fit on top of the rectangular frame tube at that spot and just drill/tap all four corners. The bottom holes were drilling into the edges of the tube, so I had to bring it down a bit, and used rivnuts through the aluminum at the bottom, and tapped the top holes for 10-32 screws. I just filled the extra holes I drilled with some JB Weld and it will all get covered up with carpet anyway.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48854552286_85725af0fd_c.jpg

Other that installing the fire extinguisher, not much to do at all on the car until after paint. I did receive an updated tune file from Lund. After loading the new tune, I was asked to add a WOT from 2500 to 5000 rpm in my next data logging session. I did that this morning and sent the file back to Lund. I suspect we are really close to the full WOT dyno test, probably after the next tune update I expect to get back on Monday.

It's fall but here in Texas it's still in the mid-90's. It is supposed to drop to the 60's by next Friday. Can we at least get a couple weeks of actual fall weather before winter arrives, please? I want to drive the car without sweating!

[shark92651]

Earlier in the week I received my Texas title in the mail and on Friday I received my plates. It's fully titled and registered now!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48886562018_4970c91cb8_c.jpg

Today I did my first "field test" of the 3.5" poker table cup holders. I'm happy to report they hold a Chick-Fil-A medium soft drink with straw and a Mac-N-Cheese with no issues. The cup did tilt under heavy acceleration but it didn't fall over.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48887199281_91976ebbf9_c.jpg

I also did another data logging session for Lund. This time they asked for a WOT from 2500 - 7200! It took a couple loops around the service road to finally get on it without any traffic (especially cops) and I hit about 80+ in 2nd gear, that was fun.

I parked it on the street near my house and took this photo today. I can't stop looking at this thing :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48886560663_471170146a_c.jpg

[ZachT]

Looks fantastic. When is paint?

[shark92651]

Looks fantastic. When is paint?

Waiting to get the word from Kleiner. He said "late winter" so I am in a holding pattern until I get more details.

[shark92651]

It's been awhile since I posted an update on my build because there really hasn't been much to do while waiting to send it out for paint. It's been a relatively mild winter here in Texas so I have been able to put a few miles on the car most weekends. I have about 550 miles on the car now and so far it is working great. I did have one remaining issue that I needed to resolve before paint that I have been putting off and finally got around to tackling it today.

I noticed some time back that my radiator overflow tank is sitting a tad too high and the edge of my cap was making contact and rubbing on the underside of the hood. It rubbed a thin mark on the hood and would deposit some fiberglass dust on the cap as you can see in the pic below.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49440280203_baca6ac586_c.jpg

I thought about how to correct this and I decided that the best way to handle it would be to move the tank so that the flange rests below my bracket rather than on top. This moved the tank down about 1/4" which is plenty to get the clearance I needed. My plan was to use some of my 10-32 rivetnuts in the flange of the tank so that I could place it underneath the bracket. The 10/32 bolts are thinner than the original bolts I used so I did not even have to drill out the threaded holes in the bracket. My son came over to help and I was able to do the work, which included cutting down the bracket on the underside of the tank that rests on the fan shroud by 1/4", without having to remove any of the hoses which avoided a potential mess. I used some moving blankets to protect everything while working.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49440958877_4fa81be3f4_c.jpg

Here is how it all turned out. Not a lot to see but if you followed how I originally installed the tank you can see how the flange is now under the bracket. It feels plenty sturdy so I think it will hold just fine. To test if I have enough clearance now I put a thick bead of grease on that edge of the cap and took the car for another ride. No grease transferred to the underside of the hood so looks like the problem is solved!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49440733951_605789ec85_c.jpg

[shark92651]

Today was a fairly warm, sunny Texas day for February at 63 degrees so took the car for a cruise and to run some errands. When I got home I started looking at the hood scoop so decided to go ahead and prepare that for mounting to the hood. I picked up a fine point white paint pen marked a centerline in the flange all the way around. I then found the center of the top of the scoop - not a simple thing to do with a curved piece like this so I double and triple checked it. Earlier I had decided to use 25 bolts with one in the center of the top and the two at the bottom that are .5" from the end. I did my best to measure the circumference of the scoop to figure out my hole spacing. After a bit of trial and error, and a little math, I found that if I used spacing of of 2.172" between holes that I ended up with the last hole at .5" from the end. I set my calipers to 2.172" and started from the top-center mark and worked my way around marking all the locations with a pencil. Once satisfied with the locations, I went back over them with the paint pen.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49507085182_c3a762b6d2_c.jpg


To avoid drill bit walking, I center-punched each location and then drilled each with a small 1/16" bit, then moved up to the 11/64" that allows the 8-32 bolts to drop in. I bought 8-32 x 5/8" torx buttonhead stainless bolts for the scoop, along with some clear polyurethane washers and stainless acorn nuts. I'm probably not going to bother to cut a hole in my hood since it isn't needed for the Coyote.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49506865781_6547b2b1d2_c.jpg

[BadAsp427]

Nice job... I've been trying to decide if I want to cut the hole in the hood or not also. I know that the performance increase w/o a turkey pan will be just about nil but wonder about water and dirt getting in even more that it does all ready. I'm thinking the only advantage to having the hole is some cool air in the engine compartment. Then I wonder, if I do not cut the hole, how hard is it going to be to keep it clean up under the hood scoop.

[shark92651]

Nice job... I've been trying to decide if I want to cut the hole in the hood or not also. I know that the performance increase w/o a turkey pan will be just about nil but wonder about water and dirt getting in even more that it does all ready. I'm thinking the only advantage to having the hole is some cool air in the engine compartment. Then I wonder, if I do not cut the hole, how hard is it going to be to keep it clean up under the hood scoop.

I guess it's a trade off either way. The air coming in would be nice for cooling, but it's definitely not in the area that would feed to the intake. 2bking came by and showed me his car last year and he didn't cut the hole in his as he wanted the extra stiffness in the hood. Kleiner told me that even with the hole water doesn't really get into the engine bay. I'm not sure if it is because of the air turbulence or what.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Kleiner told be that even with the hole water doesn't really get into the engine bay. I'm not sure if it is because of the air turbulence or what.

You get some water...and lots of bugs.

Jeff

[edwardb]

My opinion on the hood scoop hole strictly FWIW: Do you need the cooling? Probably not. Do you need it for intake air? Probably not and especially if a Coyote with the CAI up front. Does the underside of the hood stay any dryer? No. Does the underside the hood or scoop stay cleaner? No. I wipe the underside of mine down occasionally. But it's rarely dirty. All of those discussions are kind of moot because the fact is the whole bottom of the chassis/engine is open. And typically there isn't a seal between the hood and the body. Even with cushioned gasket all around. The bottom line for me? Nothing screams "Fake" like a hood scoop with no hole in the hood. Maybe it doesn't matter to you (and it doesn't matter to me either) but you'll already get enough "Is it real?" comments to not fuel the fire with obviously non-authentic choices like that. My thought is if you don't want the hole, leave the scoop off. It's a clean look that isn't bad and many like. But with the scoop, make it a real scoop with a hole in the hood. There are no issues with the hood losing strength with the hole. It's solid with or without. That's my take on it anyway.

[shark92651]

I borrowed my friend's laser level and did the best I could to run a line from the center of the oil cooler opening, across the hood, and between my roll bars. It may not be perfect but I think it's pretty good and hopefully will be OK for when the painter lays down stripes.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49511779663_7e899e2f12_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49512293591_1738b7497f_c.jpg

[shark92651]

My opinion on the hood scoop hole strictly FWIW: Do you need the cooling? Probably not. Do you need it for intake air? Probably not and especially if a Coyote with the CAI up front. Does the underside of the hood stay any dryer? No. Does the underside the hood or scoop stay cleaner? No. I wipe the underside of mine down occasionally. But it's rarely dirty. All of those discussions are kind of moot because the fact is the whole bottom of the chassis/engine is open. And typically there isn't a seal between the hood and the body. Even with cushioned gasket all around. The bottom line for me? Nothing screams "Fake" like a hood scoop with no hole in the hood. Maybe it doesn't matter to you (and it doesn't matter to me either) but you'll already get enough "Is it real?" comments to not fuel the fire with obviously non-authentic choices like that. My thought is if you don't want the hole, leave the scoop off. It's a clean look that isn't bad and many like. But with the scoop, make it a real scoop with a hole in the hood. There are no issues with the hood losing strength with the hole. It's solid with or without. That's my take on it anyway.

Thanks for the input Paul, gives me something to think about. I needed the bolt holes in place to mark the hole location anyway so I will mull this one over between now and paint. Personally I don't care too much about what other people think about the car because it's going to be fairly non-traditional anyway with my modern paint colors and engine choice. Besides, other Cobra owners can appreciate it and the haters are just jealous anyway ;)

[edwardb]

Thanks for the input Paul, gives me something to think about. I needed the bolt holes in place to mark the hole location anyway so I will mull this one over between now and paint. Personally I don't care too much about what other people think about the car because it's going to be fairly non-traditional anyway with my modern paint colors and engine choice. Besides, other Cobra owners can appreciate it and the haters are just jealous anyway ;)

Agree. Which is what I tried to say. I did it because that's how I wanted it and there's no downside IMO. Easy to add the cutout if you decide you want it. I recommend drilling the mounting holes first, just like you did.

[shark92651]

I've been leaving my garage door opener in one of the cup holders, but never felt comfortable with that so I came up with a way to turn it into a cheap "HomeLink" system. I took the opener apart and used my meter to determine the contacts for the switch and then soldered some wires to it. I cut a small notch in the case with my Dremel to bring the wires out and then I crimped together some small JST and spade connectors I had on hand to wire it to a small stainless pushbutton switch. I used some Velcro to secure the remote to the front of my mega fuse holder behind the dash and mounted the switch in my under dash support near the steering wheel. Yeah I know I could just buy a hub for my garage door opener and access it with an app on my phone, but that is probably in my pocket and it's real convenient to just reach under and press the button.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49648087223_162527f000_c.jpg

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[shark92651]

After an extended shakedown period of over 800 miles driving in gelcoat, I have finally dropped my car off at a shop not far from me. They do a fair amount of work on Cobra replicas and custom cars in general and I got a recommendation from a member of the local Cobra Club. When I went to check them out they had a Cobra in the shop that they had repainted. I was able to drive my car there and they are going to disassemble, do all the body work, and reassemble and quoted me 2-3 months, but plan on it being closer to 3. I'm glad to finally be starting paint, but going to miss some prime spring driving weather. When I get it back it's going to be HOT in Texas.

https://www.facebook.com/grubbsmotorsports/


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49653600762_197d19b962_c.jpg

[Straversi]

Looks like a garage ready for a new build....

Love the garage door opener mod in previous post. Going to have to copy that one.
-Steve

[shark92651]

Looks like a garage ready for a new build....

Love the garage door opener mod in previous post. Going to have to copy that one.
-Steve

You know I do feel like I could do a better job on the next one, but I will probably have to wait at least a few years while my wife warms up to the idea ;)

[RodneyArcher]

Congrats on getting her into paint!

[shark92651]

Well the whole Coronavirus lock down got real about the time I got my car to the body shop, which slowed things down, but I finally have some progress pics to share. The shop has been working on gapping the panels and knocking down the parting lines. They had an idea to fix the off-center license plate bump by building it up a bite on the right-hand side and moving the license plate holder over to new holes. Hopefully it will turn out nice and they can just lay the stripes across the license plate and trunk latch without any paint trickery to correct the issue. I hope it turns out well but hard to tell at this point until it is in primer.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49832219247_7a4975a473_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49832219222_311a5f9b9c_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49832219207_cfd5eefdd4_c.jpg

[LOBO 302]

What is the best way to seal up gaps in the panels, like the area around the round tube in this photo?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/41057012960_83327d3ff2_c.jpg

Shark, where did you get your Clecos? what sizes? and how many did you buy? Thanks

[shark92651]

Shark, where did you get your Clecos? what sizes? and how many did you buy? Thanks

I don't remember exactly where but if you Google search you can find a lot of places selling them. I got them in a kit with a blue bag and the Cleco tool and I think it was on eBay. I bought 50 1/8" and 25 in 3/16". I only ended up using a few of the 3/16" though

[Nigel Allen]

I don't think there are any clecos left to buy.
Shark bought ALL of them looking at the photo.


Cheers,
Nigel in South Oz

[shark92651]

I don't think there are any clecos left to buy.
Shark bought ALL them looking at the photo.


Cheers,
Nigel in South Oz

There is something that is just so satisfying about plopping a Cleco in each hole, although totally unnecessary. ;)

[shark92651]

I got another progress update from the body shop. They are planning to spray first primer today and then I plan to drive over and take a look.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49995706832_21531274e3_c.jpg

[KDubU]

Moving a long nicely!

[shark92651]

Today I went over to the shop to look at my car for the first time since dropping it off. They laid down contour polyester primer and it's nice to see it all one color again. I think the gaps and fitment are looking great and I'm excited to see the final product. Because the hinges allow the hood to shift a bit side to side, they came up with a nice bracket in the center of the hood with a grommet that they mounted underneath between the two hood latch catches. They will bond a post on the underside of the hood for it to drop down into to perfectly center the hood. I think it's a great idea but I forgot to take a pic of it. I'll post a photo next time I get to take a look at it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49999932756_11ab448af9_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50000188767_46fa539cdf_c.jpg

[TheBabyBadger]

Looks awesome man!!! Gonna be GORGEOUS!

[460.465USMC]

Great idea! Thanks, Shark92651! Thanks, Jeff Kleiner! I've already added it to my Must Do list for when I build my MK4.

Oops! Very new to Replying. I see I should have copied the quote for reference. I'm referring to the "dye" method you followed for your door check straps. Thanks!

[shark92651]

Getting closer to seeing some color now. Car is in final prime and they are going to do some color spray outs on Monday for me to look at.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50129921387_32f9e8f45e_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50129132213_b337e2b5e7_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50129921437_a14d96ec2a_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

So apparently they're doing it all with the body and panels on/

Jeff

[shark92651]

So apparently they're doing it all with the body and panels on/

Jeff

Yes they are, at least up to this point. Car will be painted body-on. Panels are all off now for paint.

[shark92651]

Finally we have some color! Next update should have the stripes laid down.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50223096003_64318846de_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50223095983_ae111d57d8_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50223745536_cecfe872c9_c.jpg

[460.465USMC]

Awesome, Shark92651! I'm excited for you.

[TMartinLVNV]

That looks rich. Great color choice.

[KDubU]

Nice deep red! Do you mind sharing what it is?

[shark92651]

Nice deep red! Do you mind sharing what it is?

Its Ford Ruby Red. The stripes will be Ford Magnetic, same color scheme as my truck.

[GoDadGo]

Shark,

Like Kyle, I love the color too.
Making it match your truck, well you can't go wrong there.
Congratulations on getting to the end of the road with your MK-4.

Steve

[FLPBFoot]

Its Ford Ruby Red. The stripes will be Ford Magnetic, same color scheme as my truck.

Great choice. I'm doing Ruby Red as well but going with Diamond Black with some red flake added in for the stipes.

That tri-color looks great!!

I love how it really pops in the sun.

Steve

[shark92651]

Here is another pic when they rolled it outside this morning.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50226249987_002f049fb0_c.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks nice. So they're going to put the stripes on top of the clear?

Jeff

[shark92651]

Looks nice. So they're going to put the stripes on top of the clear?

Jeff

I don't know the process exactly, but he said they were gonna let it sit this weekend, and next week will "sand it flat, lay out the stripes, and then spray them". He also mentioned four more coats of clear on top of it all after stripes.

[JB in NOVA]

Looks great! Thanks for sharing the process step by step. You're going to have a beautiful car.

[shark92651]

Some more pics. Yesterday they sanded it down and laid down stripes.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50246383217_f802d23ac2_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50245540823_f82d010c5c_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50246175776_7ca6927737_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50246383152_1384f8e9b1_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50246383167_33fcb636c1_z.jpg

[JohnK]

Very nice! Can't wait to see it completed. Love the color combo.

[shark92651]

And today they sprayed clear. I think it's looking pretty nice!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50249209677_b8133fd6cf_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50249209692_0450256cc8_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248366453_666dfc7a70_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50249209727_ba37a9ec9a_c.jpg


And some pics outside

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50248555758_ca1b397bb3_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50249402582_3bdcf553f0_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50249200731_a0ea13cf4b_c.jpg

[TMartinLVNV]

Looks fabulous! Ford Ruby Red is one of the colors that I really wanted when looking paint colors. It turned out great. Your shop appears to be doing a great job.

[FLPBFoot]

Looks nice?? It looks awesome!!

Steve

[KDubU]

Very nice indeed!

[Traveller]

Looks great - love that color scheme!

[shark92651]

Well yesterday I brought my car home from the body shop and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. Grubbs Motorsports in Garland, TX did an outstanding job! Now I need to pull the seats and trans cover and start installing the carpet and finish up the last half-dozen or so items left on my punch list. The sun was starting to set when I got home so the color almost looks maroon in the pics I snapped before I put it in the garage. The colors really change depending on the lighting. Here are also a couple pics that were taken at the shop before I brought it home.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50309785537_e3ae3eb454_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50309786827_a9a91fec3d_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50309798932_fc7b8f92e7_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50308959983_9773684b99_c.jpg

[shark92651]

I still need to finish carpet, but I couldn’t resist popping some of these “finishing touches” on the roadster. I came up with a paint scheme for the engine and coil covers that mirrors the body paint and Grubbs Motorsports did a great job with the paint. The plastic melt rivets were replaced with stainless button heads to put it back together.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50309951222_56d874a457_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50309782271_3f025c499d_c.jpg


The Coyote engine badges are from billetbadges.com, the same as used by wareaglescott and at least one other member.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50309949777_03c655d7cf_c.jpg


Here is a shot of the "centering post" that Grubbs came up with and molded into the fiberglass of the hood. You can see the receiving bracket in one of the engine photos above. The idea of this is to perfectly center the hood when it is closed and remove any lateral movement. I am planning to open up the hole a bit on the bracket and putting a rubber grommet in there to eliminate any metal on metal rubbing or scratching.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50309953887_5621b35d74_c.jpg

[Straversi]

Beautiful! Love the colors. Neat idea on the centering post. Haven’t seen that before.
You are having a great holiday weekend for sure.
-Steve

[D02G]

looks great!

[TMartinLVNV]

Outstanding. It turned out fantastic! The engine covers paint ties it together well.

[KDubU]

Wow, that is stunning! Congrats and the engine bay paint scheme really is sharp.

[wallace18]

Super Job!:cool:

[RJD]

Wow! That turned out beautiful. Congratulations on a stunning car. Well done.

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations!
.You Must Be Thrilled!
-Well Done!

[GTBradley]

Like,like,like!

[shark92651]

Today I took my brother out for a short cruise and got lots of looks and thumbs ups! When I got home I made a short walk-around video in the sun.


https://youtu.be/a0wX_y2XYqE

[JB in NOVA]

Love it! Nice job.

[wareaglescott]

looks great. I know you must be thrilled.

[Fman]

Awesome! Double thumbs up for your color combo and that attention to detail in the engine compartment. And thank you for putting together a great build thread, I visit your thread often to help guide me through my journey.

You really put together one amazing car!

[Higgybulin]

Dude, looks GREAT!!
Higgy

[cv2065]

Looks fantastic! Love the Ruby Red!

[broddins]

Wow! The paint is flawless! I like the wheels also. Now, I'm thinking of getting a new set of wheel and tire packages (https://4wheelonline.com/wheel-and-tire-packages.283376) for my roadster.

[shark92651]

This week I removed the seats, racing harnesses, shift knob, trans tunnel cover, e-brake boot, and door catches so that I can install the carpet. I almost hated taking the car offline as the weather has cooled off this weekend and I would love to take it out, but I want to get it finished up. I managed to get all but the under door carpet pieces installed this morning.

For the trunk I used 3M Super 90 spray adhesive, which worked well with the stretchy material I used in the trunk. The cockpit carpet doesn't stretch so I wanted to use outdoor carpet adhesive so I have time to shift parts around before it sets. I installed the bottom half of the rear cockpit wall but did not have very good results - it wouldn't hold and I really had to roll it on very firmly to get it to grab at all. After a PM to EdwardB I discovered that the notches in my trowel were just too small so I wasn't getting enough adhesive on the wall. I picked up a notched putty knife at Home Depot for a few bucks and it works WAY better. I believe the notches on this one are about 1/8" to 3/16". I used just over 1/2 a gallon of Dap Weldwood Carpet adhesive to install all the cockpit carpet. I mostly used the notched putty knife to spread the adhesive, and some paint stir sticks to dap it into the tight areas where the putty knife would not fit. After positioning and pressing into place, I used a small roller to roll it flat and a clean plastic putty knife to press down all the seams.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338442371_7e9cdcff2f_c.jpg


Before gluing each piece into position I test fitted and trimmed each one. Nearly every piece required at least a small amount of trimming, especially the floor pieces and the piece at the rear of the transmission tunnel. Once the rear cockpit carpet was in place I re-installed my fire extinguisher bracket and installed the shoulder harness trim bezels I picked up from replicaparts.com.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338575782_53b7258df9_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50337735068_659a491016_c.jpg


I didn't want any carpet between the floor and seat brackets of the Breeze seat mounts, so I had to cut around those. I first marked where the bolts are and punched holes in the carpet so it would mostly lay flat. I did not use any cement on the floor bracket and once I had the entire floor carpet piece in place and rolled, I came back with a razor knife and cut out around the bracket.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338422711_5c92e9ab09_c.jpg


Since I made a leather-covered, removable trans tunnel cover, I cut the top off of the trans tunnel carpet and trimmed each side so that the carpet stops just under my rivnuts. I plan to tuck each side under my trans tunnel cover and then screw it down. Hopefully the carpet on the sides and rear won't make that too difficult.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338578172_e8db8ea2e8_c.jpg

[shark92651]

Because the accelerator is so close to the side of the footbox, I like the idea of a heel pad to reduce wear and tear on the carpet and to allow the foot to slide more easily than it would against the carpet. I picked up a small black pad at www.heelpadwarehouse.com (http://www.heelpadwarehouse.com/) - yes that is an entire web site dedicated to heel pads believe it or not ;) I picked up some leather sewing waxed thread and a needle on Amazon and I spent a couple hours hand-stitching the pad to the footbox carpet. I test fitted the pad and decided this was the best orientation, it runs just above the round frame tube and just far enough back to protect the carpet during full depress of the accelerator, while not interfering with it's movement (it's kind of tight in there and I didn't want it jamming up on the pad, so I moved it a bit forward). I then taped it temporarily to the carpet and pulled it back out to hand-stitch it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338435961_4abb53d873_c.jpg


After I stitched the bottom side of the pad, I masked off the carpet and sprayed some Super 90 in there and then pressed it into place. I figured this would help ensure the pad didn't "poof out", although I'm not sure that would happen anyway. It took me a couple hours to stitch this thing up. I used "tapestry" needles you can find at Michael's to help with this. I also pre-punctured holes in the pad using an awl. After pushing the needle and thread down from the top through the bottom, I would use a 2nd needle in the "return" hole on top to help guide the needle and thread back up. It was very tedious and took a couple hours, but I am glad that I did it and I like the finished product.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338582691_ff0fef6a2a_c.jpg


At this point I think I will clean up my seats, harnesses, and other parts and get the car back into driving condition. There is quite a bit of dust and gunk on the seats and harness from the bodywork - definitely a body-on paint job makes a bigger mess of the interior of the car. I am going to take my under door carpet pieces to an upholstery shop for some edging so those outside corners look nice and neat. Those pieces should be easy enough to install with the seats back in place, or so I hope.

[shark92651]

I have read that the FFR floor mats can shift around and bunch up in the footbox so I wanted to avoid that - not only is it annoying but can be dangerous if it happens around the pedals. I like the clips that are built into the floor mats of most daily drivers so looked for something like that. I found these AZERONE car mat carpet clips on Amazon and they were only $9.99 for a set of 8 clips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTH5LHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I used a 25mm hole punch that I had from a previous project and the entire job only took about 30 minutes. I laid the mats in place and determined where I wanted the clips. The bottom half of the clip has a bent nail and you press it down into the carpet and then slide it forward to lock it into place under the carpet backer. Once the bottom clip was in place I put the round piece on top and then put the mat back in place and pressed down to put an imprint on the plastic backer of the mat. That left just enough of an indention to punch out the hole in the correct position. I installed the clips in pairs, one side at a time and test fitted the mat before marking for the 2nd set of clips. It was a quick and easy job and seems very secure and looks great.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50345710166_74e76f3341_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50345710596_13620e3435_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50345711921_aeb5f5c9f3_c.jpg

[mburger]

Looks good. Great idea.

[460.465USMC]

Nice find! Another must-have added to my list when I eventually get to that point.

Your finished MK4 looks awesome! Looks like a very clean build. Thanks again for sharing your learnings!

[shark92651]

We had an event at our business this morning and I really wanted to take the car so I hustled to finish it up before Saturday. I'm about 99% done at this point with just a couple more things I want to do before I call it finished.

I finished up the carpet and got everything reinstalled in the cockpit.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50359254863_94e7925036_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50359250363_f97f97a791_c.jpg


Like many others have done, I used a local automotive interior shop to sew some binding on the exposed edges of the under door sill carpet.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50359250893_5cc58ed1b0_c.jpg


I ordered the Dark Water Customs door sill trim at the start of my build (that I still need to trim and install) so I won't be using the FFR supplied trim. I ordered some D-bulb seal from McMaster Carr and installed that around the inside edge of both doors. I also installed the Herbs door panels that I had him finish with some of my leather hide I bought for the dash and trans cover.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50359428343_9118d12312_c.jpg


I bought this aluminum bezel and battery switch key that fits over the FFR supplied battery cutoff switch. It was a REAL pain getting the bezel installed after carpet since it required me to get under the car and reach in and install and tighten two hex screws, one of which was completely blind - the battery switch is way down behind the engine, and above the bell housing. To further complicate it, you have to hold and turn the bezel to find the threaded hole. Doing this by myself was very difficult. I eventually managed to get it done by using silicon to "glue" the screw onto the end of an allen wrench, find the hole while under the car, then leave it hanging while I go up top, climb into the car, and hold the bezel with one hand while reaching in from the top of the transmission tunnel and turning the wrench. I don't want to do that again!

I tried to polish the trim pieces on the side of the trans tunnel cover but I'm not happy with how they turned out. My plan at this point is to remove them and paint them matte black. I think it will look nice with the stainless oval head screws.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50360117452_741caed239_c.jpg


I used some RTV Silicon to put my grilles in the brake ducts and oil cooler opening. This is the same powder-coated hex aluminum I used to make the radiator screen. I also need to put my fog lights back in the oil cooler opening.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50359954651_9379d966d2_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50360118607_98c575f2ba_c.jpg

[Rook]

Wow. That looks fantastic! Great attention to detail. I’m making a note about that heel pad, and the floor mat clips, and that transmission tunnel cover, and the door sill carpet stitching...

[shark92651]

After spending a couple hours trimming the Dark Water door sill trim and polishing it, I decided I didn't like the look so I will be selling them. I went with the FFR supplied trim and I like the more subtle look. I felt I had too many shiny bits in the cockpit as it is and I think the rubber trim, along with painting my trans tunnel trim black, will tone it down a bit and will look better. I put a bead of silicon on the sill to help hold the trim in place.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365242051_6f83a1d76a_c.jpg


I bolted my fog lights in behind the oil cooler grill, just need to adjust the lights a bit to center them better.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365403442_2a622c6536_c.jpg

[GBarrow]

[QUOTE=shark92651;326241]I didn't get as much time to work on my kit this weekend as I would have liked, but my back-ordered control arms did come in late Saturday and I received my dropped trunk kit from Russ Thompson.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/41343838445_ba69ab4cd4_c.jpg

I cut the ends off of the rear spindles using my angle grinder and a cutting wheel, cleaned up with a flap disc.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/952/41343838135_fb47e872ff_c.jpg

I had a heck of a time swapping out the wheel studs. The FFR recomended method to remove the old studs (grab head of stud in vice, bang out with hammer) worked pretty well but their method to draw in the new studs with a lug nut and washer did not. I got one in with great effort, but about 1/2 way through the 2nd stud the lug nut was getting destroyed, the washers were bending up, etc... So I went to Home Depot and bought a large bolt to use as a punch, ground down the threads on one side, and used a socket in the vice and beat the studs in with a 4lb hammer. It took about a dozen blows to fully seat each stud, but I got them all in.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/981/42198540052_a705f96df8_c.jpg

Here are the completed spindles and hubs. You can see the socket and hammer blows marred the hubs a bit, but I guess it shouldn't cause me to lose too much sleep since they will be hidden.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/904/42245269311_a511263aff_c.jpg

I also ordered up some stainless bolts and couplers from McMaster Carr for the rear Quick Jacks mod.

Shark,
I'm just getting started on a build very similar to yours, MK4 complete kit, IRS, Coyote, etc and thank you for all your insights! I'm really enjoying your build thread. Lots of great info and lessons learned that are already benefiting me. I know it's been a while back, but do you remember the specs on the bolts and couplers you ordered from McMaster Carr for the rear quick jack mod? I can't find that info on the forum, probably because I'm too new to know how to search properly.
Thanks for the help!
Barrow

[David Hodgkins]

I have read that the FFR floor mats can shift around and bunch up in the footbox so I wanted to avoid that - not only is it annoying but can be dangerous if it happens around the pedals. I like the clips that are built into the floor mats of most daily drivers so looked for something like that. I found these AZERONE car mat carpet clips on Amazon and they were only $9.99 for a set of 8 clips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTH5LHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I used a 25mm hole punch that I had from a previous project and the entire job only took about 30 minutes. I laid the mats in place and determined where I wanted the clips. The bottom half of the clip has a bent nail and you press it down into the carpet and then slide it forward to lock it into place under the carpet backer. Once the bottom clip was in place I put the round piece on top and then put the mat back in place and pressed down to put an imprint on the plastic backer of the mat. That left just enough of an indention to punch out the hole in the correct position. I installed the clips in pairs, one side at a time and test fitted the mat before marking for the 2nd set of clips. It was a quick and easy job and seems very secure and looks great.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50345710166_74e76f3341_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50345710596_13620e3435_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50345711921_aeb5f5c9f3_c.jpg

LOVE this! What a simple solution to a common problem. How come I've never seen this before? WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT??

:)

[shark92651]

Shark,
I'm just getting started on a build very similar to yours, MK4 complete kit, IRS, Coyote, etc and thank you for all your insights! I'm really enjoying your build thread. Lots of great info and lessons learned that are already benefiting me. I know it's been a while back, but do you remember the specs on the bolts and couplers you ordered from McMaster Carr for the rear quick jack mod? I can't find that info on the forum, probably because I'm too new to know how to search properly.
Thanks for the help!
Barrow

McMaster keeps a nice record of all past orders. Here are the parts I ordered for that mod:

18-8 Stainless Steel Coupling Nut (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/90268A340)
18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Head Screw (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92240A399)
18-8 Stainless Steel SAE Washer (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/96659A109)

[shark92651]

I finished up a few more minor details before I call this one "done" (or say I am done, I'm sure the tweaks and mods will continue for a long time).

I pulled the aluminum trim pieces off the sides of my trans tunnel cover and painted them matte black with Brownell's Aluma-hyde II. I would have liked to powder coat them but these pieces were too large to fit in my oven and I didn't want to bother paying a minimum charge to take them to the powder-coater. Aluma-Hyde is a very durable firearm finish product and once fully cured, can take up to 10 days, should resist scratches pretty well.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50387231071_127923cf95_c.jpg

I measured the stacks of washers on my door strikers and ordered appropriate size aluminum spacers from McMaster to replace them. I also cut the bolt to size and put the stainless acorn nuts on them. Looks more finished.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50387258146_b956fcb830_c.jpg

I looked at this gap between the body and the striker plate for quite awhile trying to think of a good way to fill that gap. In the end I just cut a small section of the D-bulb that I put in the door and used that. Looks ok I guess, couldn't really think of a better solution at this point.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50386527703_f8561e3471_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50387226256_d501afb648_c.jpg

[shark92651]

Well I guess it's time to call #9327 graduated! Of course I'm not done working on it, probably will never be, but at some point you have to say "that's it, I'm done". When I started this project in mid-2018 I really didn't fully comprehend the amount of work and the obsession this would become, but was excited and ready to see what I could build. I'm so thankful for everyone on this forum for providing inspiration, motivation, guidance, and technical support! This really is the best, most helpful forum of any topic that I have been a member of. For those of you that are just here for the graduation pics and summary, I built an FFR MK4 with a Gen2 Ford Coyote crate motor, ford performance clutch, and TKO-600 5-speed w/synchro upgrade from Liberty Gears. The car has IRS, dual anti-sway bars, has KRC power steering, Mike Forte external hydraulic clutch, Wilwood 13" disc brakes, 18" FFR halibrand style wheels, FFR stainless headers and side pipes, and dual stainless breeze roll bars. And without further ado, here are the graduation pics.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50386856081_a7842a69c0_c.jpg

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[Kool AC]

Beautiful!

[Nigel Allen]

A stellar build. Thanks for sharing your journey.

Cheers,

Nigel

[TMartinLVNV]

Outstanding work and results! Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

[nuhale]

CONGRATS! What's the next project? :)

[Jeff Kleiner]

Well done David! Enjoy it :)

Jeff

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Beautiful work and great choices along the way. Thank you for sharing your build. I’ve enjoyed following along.
-Steve

[wareaglescott]

Congrats. Looks great. Very nice work. I enjoyed following your progress along the way. Hope you enjoy many happy miles!!

[cgundermann]

I have read that the FFR floor mats can shift around and bunch up in the footbox so I wanted to avoid that - not only is it annoying but can be dangerous if it happens around the pedals. I like the clips that are built into the floor mats of most daily drivers so looked for something like that. I found these AZERONE car mat carpet clips on Amazon and they were only $9.99 for a set of 8 clips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTH5LHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

I used a 25mm hole punch that I had from a previous project and the entire job only took about 30 minutes. I laid the mats in place and determined where I wanted the clips. The bottom half of the clip has a bent nail and you press it down into the carpet and then slide it forward to lock it into place under the carpet backer. Once the bottom clip was in place I put the round piece on top and then put the mat back in place and pressed down to put an imprint on the plastic backer of the mat. That left just enough of an indention to punch out the hole in the correct position. I installed the clips in pairs, one side at a time and test fitted the mat before marking for the 2nd set of clips. It was a quick and easy job and seems very secure and looks great.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50345710166_74e76f3341_c.jpg

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Super nice idea to hold those in place. I’ve tried several things and those rascals shift around and can truly be a hazard.

Chris

[460.465USMC]

Looks excellent, Shark! Can’t believe this is your first build. The quality is top notch. Hope you have a blast driving it! I received so many good ideas from your build thread. Thank you!

[ZachT]

Just finished going through the thread. Excellent documentation and very nice outcome. Congratulations and thank you.