Paint Protection - Nose & Rear Fenders

[jwebb]

I've seen polished aluminum "spats" for the rear, are there other options and what's available for the nose?

[RickP]

I came across a picture the other day of a roadster that had a leather bra upfront. I’ve never seen something like it commercially available or available from the many vendors I’ve come across. Maybe he had it made. Looked like it would surely offer protection.

[cgundermann]

I'm just getting ready to use the 3M clear paint protection for the rear spats and there is a number of similar clear adhesive brands you can use, to include a spray type that is removable. Lots of discussion on the forum concerning this application. The general consensus is that the nose has too many compound curves which makes it difficult to completely cover. Some members have just used it at the lower chin which is more prone to chips. A strip at the top of the inside door prevents an overzealous removable of the seatbelt harness and protects the door from the heavy buckle from chipping it...ask me how I know...

Chris

[Jim Doak]

I had my car repainted in 2016 then had clear paint protective film applied a few weeks later, giving the paint some time to cure before application of the film.

So far it's working great. There's a small bubble near one of the turn signal lights that's hardly noticable, however, overall it's held up well and has done a great job of protecting the paint. (Before the repaint the front of the car had terrible road rash after 30,000 miles.)

I also had the film applied in front of the rear fenders and along the top side of the doors.

Before the repaint I had aluminum spats installed on the front of the rear fenders and they really took a beating.

[GFX2043mtu]

I’m also looking into this (Xpel and 3m) but I have been having a hard time finding any one that will guarantee to not hit the paint with a razor blade while trimming it. Apparently you will never know if they hit the paint till you go to replace the film then depending on how bad they hit the paint you may or may not be able to cut and buff it out. I have a lot wrapped into my paint and that drove me to look at Cleartastic static cling clear paint film. You cut it then apply it to the car. Corvette guys swear by the stuff and it’s only $40 a roll so I’m going to give it a shot for the tops of the doors, and lower rear quarters. I did get a set of clear static cling spat covers from finish line and from what I can tell they don’t look to bad but they also won’t wrap around the wheel arch edges. So I may also use Cleartastic stuff for the spats.

[Avalanche325]

I have 3M film on the rear fenders. It works well, but that area takes a lot of abuse.

Bras are terrible for your paint. They get dirt and grit under them and act like sandpaper.

I think you will find that the static wont stay on the compound curves. You also cannot get it to wrap around edges. I tried with some sign shop static vinyl that I had, it was hopeless.

[R. Button]

Some where around the 200,000 mile range this is what you are trying to protect it from! :)

82625

[WIS89]

Some where around the 200,000 mile range this is what you are trying to protect it from! :)

82625

Ralph, that's just character man!! Great picture, and I think it tells a great story about your car.

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

I have Xpel on mine in front of the rear wheels. Shape of the front makes it tricky to find anyone to install it. Most installers use precut kits for known models and there is not a precut kit for a FFR so you will be looking at a custom job. For reference I just paid 2k for full front end wrap with Suntek film on a new car I just got from a well respected installer. I asked him about a custom job on the Cobra and he indicated he would have to see it in person but probably around 3k. There is definitely a skill level to installing this stuff and I feel this is a definite you get what you pay for situation. A cheap price will likely result in a cheap looking job.
The suntek film will need to come off and be reapplied after 5-6 years. IF you think of it that way a custom wrap on the Cobra is about a $500 a year commitment. Based on the limited miles most of us drive these you really have to ask yourself if it is worth it. I ended up ordering a roll of Xpel from eBay and applying some pieces on the straight parts of the top and bottom of the oil cooler opening. I feel that is the area most likely to take shots and doing that part myself was quite easy and cheap. 1 year and 4500 miles in and the paint looks fine on the front end with no chips to speak of.
The rear fender areas definitely regularly takes hits. I would absolutely put something on those.

[skidd]

Anybody thought about this AutoFlex stuff from the DipYourCar guys?
I have no experience with the stuff myself, but seems like it might be a safe DIY option.
Their "pro" line of stuff can be had in aerosol form.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDUHsUjSQwY

[ej95Cobra]

I went with Xpel Ultimate clear bra after waiting 3 months post painting. Professional installer did front end, entire hood, scoop, rocker panels & area behind rear tire. I have 3,000+ miles and am truly pleased. I have autox'd & rallied the car. Interestingly, the installer (Capital Autobahnd) had a 50th anniversary AC Cobra in the shop when I had mine done. He was doing the entire 50th anniversary Cobra. He noted our cars were easier as the curves, especially the front fenders, were less aggressive than the anniversary Cobra.