Steering Bind Problems

[TomH33]

Hi
I have run into binding on the u-joints because the angle is to severe. It seems there needs to be a third bearing to eliminate the binding. I have the FF Unisteer kit and bought the very expensive u joints from Unisteer. I have gokarted the package and the steering bind every rotation. Has anybody had this problem and how did you fix it. 82549

Thanks TomH33

[tcollins]

I don't have a good picture of that area on the finished car, but I added an extra joint, primarily to get around the coyote headers. It seems to turn fine without binding. I don't recall buying extra joints, I thought everything to do this came with the kit? I welded the angle iron to the frame but others, with powder coated frames, have bolted on pillow blocks to mount the bearing in this general location.

82552 82553 82563

[tcollins]

Here is a picture of the bolt-on pillow block if you prefer not to weld.

82554

[1932]

I spent time and got joints at 30 degrees, but that is with third bearing.

[erlihemi]

The angle on that input looks pretty severe, but recheck the last one at the rack. It appears phased 90 degrees to what I would expect.

[Svtfreak]

Make sure the steering shaft isn’t too long and sticking too far into u joints either. That will make them bind when the u joint hits the shaft end that sticks too far out.

[JOP33]

I think I remember something in the Steering Column instructions about "phasing" all the joints as well.

[TDSapp]

Make sure the steering shaft isn’t too long and sticking too far into u joints either. That will make them bind when the u joint hits the shaft end that sticks too far out.

That is what I had a problem with at first. The shaft going up into the last joint at the steering column was too long and was hitting during the turn.

I also noticed that the u-joint right at the firewall is a little away from the bearing face. I recall the directions said to make sure it was flush on the bearing face.

[RoadRacer]

I also noticed that the u-joint right at the firewall is a little away from the bearing face. I recall the directions said to make sure it was flush on the bearing face.

Second that - it should be touching, and make sure you use just a very short grub screw (no locking nut on it) on that end of UJ so it doesn't touch. But your UJ's are way different to what I got on #997. Ironically in this very early mockup shot, my UJ isn't snug up to firewall either.. it is now, but no pics.

82579

[TDSapp]

Here is a picture of mine that I took when I was figuring out how much I needed to cut off of the rod.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/20170827_154714.jpg

I also had the set screw wrong in this picture and was not using the small one they provided.

[TomH33]

Thanks You all SOOO Much!! I think the third bearing is a good solution. I will double check the phasing and the shaft length for interference.

Thanks Again
TomH33

[Arrowhead]

Here is a picture of mine that I took when I was figuring out how much I needed to cut off of the rod.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/20170827_154714.jpg

I also had the set screw wrong in this picture and was not using the small one they provided.

I think the guys hit the nail on the head, it doesn't look like you have the correct joint at the firewall. Unless you have a Coyote or other engine than needs extra clearance, the third bearing is unnecessary.