Mk4 Build and Nutserts

[lewma]

All

After reading many posts here on roadster builds, it appears quite a few builders are using nutserts ( rivnuts ?? ) on their build.

Is there a consensus on where's best to use these vs the factory supplied rivets ?

How many do I need ? What sizes are used ?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated!!


My kit should be delivered March 23rd. Can't wait.

mark

[broku518]

Hello,

I only used rivnuts (6mm) on removable parts, like brake cylinder cover in driver box area. Or the padded vinyl dashboard. (ordered 20 rivnuts from Amazon)
Everything else that stays put, I am using FFR supplied rivets.

I am open to hear other suggestions for rivnuts as well...

Broku518

[initiator]

I've used them on the Ron Francis fuse panel, miscellaneous brackets where I want easy to remove. Any time I'm attaching to anything larger than the 3/4" square tube, I just tap threads right into the chassis member. 1/4-20 is my preferred size.

[phileas_fogg]

I used rivnuts any place I thought I might possibly have to remove a panel or component. I put them on the left side foot box access panel, the splash guards, the patch panels in the trunk (for the fuel level sending unit and the fuel pump), the transmission tunnel...

For the 3/4" frame members or anyplace else I thought there was a possibility of spinning a rivnut, I used a two-lug anchor (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/anchornutsk1000.php?clickkey=598922). [NOTE: Be sure to match the rivet size to what is called for by the anchor; my preferred anchor takes 3/32" rivets. Also note that these particular anchors are ovaled, so they have a built-in lock mechanism.] One example here is for the R-clamps securing the brake lines, and at the rear electrical harness legs feeding the tail lights.

For the larger size frame members I drilled & tapped to match the rivnuts and the two-lug anchors. An example here is for the fuel lines, both hard & soft.

As for size, pick a standard and stick with it throughout your build. I chose #10-32. I like the fine threads when drilling and tapping the frame.


John

[lewma]

Thanks everyone for your posts!

[Fixit]

For the "RivNut" users... My opposition is the inherent "stand-off" (due to the flange) of the RivNut. Does someone make a counter-bore tool to zap the backside of the part being mounted, so it'll sit flush against the parent surface that the RivNut is in?

[CDXXVII]

Look for the low profile rivet nuts. I will provide a link later.

Here is the link. Barely counter sink the hole and they are nearly flush.

https://rivetsinstock.bmobilized.com/?ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rivetnuts.com%2F&url=https%3A%2F%2Frivetsinstock.com%2Frivet-nuts-threaded-inserts%2Fribbed-k-series.html

[mike223]

Another alternative is "jack nuts" available at Grainger / Fastenal / Ebay in various sizes.

They are handy for seat mounting / etc.


82309

[Frank Messina]

Rivenuts are great for attaching accessories to panels that are too thin to tap for a threaded fastener or for a part that you may have to remove for service at a later time. The key to success with Rivnuts is you must pay attention to the grip range of the fastener vs the thickness of the material you're working on. If you buy a kit like the Marson it will come with an assortment of rivnuts BUT they may not work for thee reason stated above. You can buy knurled rivnuts from McMaster-Carr in practically any dimension. Inexpensive and super service.
Frank

[phileas_fogg]

The key to success with Rivnuts is you must pay attention to the grip range of the fastener vs the thickness of the material you're working on.

Nailed it. Same goes for rivets.