3/17/2018 complete date for my MK4......delivery by April! (Build Complete)

[stevant]

Hi all,

My Name is Steve and I'm from Long Island, N.Y.

Like all of you, I'm really excited on getting started on my build. I have asked many questions to a lot of builders here and I hope I have not worn out my welcome but thank you none the less for all the answers you have all given me so far. Very much appreciated. I've decided to go old school my self with 15" wheels and a set of AVON tires with GoodYear lettering from Tirestickers. I'm also going with the IRS rear and ordered my Wilwood brake kit from Gordon Levy. (Thanks Duke) I've opted for both power steering and Power Brakes (Hydroboost) and will be getting my Engine setup from Mike Forte. I'm going with an EFI 427 short block and a Tremec TKO 600 w/Hydraulic clutch. I look forward to any comments as my build progresses as many of you have gone through the questions I know I'll face throughout the build. I'm not new at turning a wrench but every project has it's challenges so I appreciate any feedback along the way. This forum is a great place to find so many answers so Thank you again for all who have posted their builds throughout the years. This place is a great resource.

With all that being said, any and all comments are always welcome.

Looking forward to all the support from the forum.

Sincerely,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

It will be here before you know it. Look forward to following along. Sounds like a great plan.
I have the tirestickers on my car. They are a nice touch.

[stevant]

Thanks Scott............your MK4 is one of inspiration. It came out beautiful. I'm completing the build with my two sons so that in itself I look forward too. Should be a memory of a Lifetime. They are 17 and 19 so I'm hoping they focus enough on the car not the girls. I'll keep you posted!! Lol........

[Yama-Bro]

Congrats Steve! Welcome to the club!

[stevant]

Thank you, looking forward to the experience!

[JRL16]

Congrats and welcome!

[RJD]

Congrats! You’re gonna have a blast building it.

[stevant]

Can’t wait..........Garage is all prepped! Spending as much time as I can with the wife now. I think once it comes, that might change.... lol.

[stevant]

Just got off the phone with Factory Five to go over my order. All has been confirmed. Completion date is 3/17 so all is on-time! Contacted Stewart Transport and we are looking at the end of the month for delivery!! I'm excited now..........soon the fun will begin!

[Paul2STL]

Can’t wait..........Garage is all prepped! Spending as much time as I can with the wife now. I think once it comes, that might change.... lol.

Its a balancing act with your time. Take it slow and enjoy the build, you will be done before you know it. Congratulations on the new kit!

[lewma]

Completion date is 3/17 so all is on-time!

Wow, that's a quick build by FFR ??

-EDIT-
ignore me, just saw the start date on this thread.

[stevant]

Thank you....... trying store up my sleep hours now!

[stevant]

Here is a pic at FFR, getting ready to be picked up Monday. Should have her by late next week!!

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[stevant]

Wilwood brakes from Gordon Levy should be in today. I’ll start my safety wire once I put them together. I’ll attach some pics of my progress.

[stevant]

Brakes were delivered as promised. Figured I would start working on what I could. I went ahead and drilled out the rear caliper mounting holes to 3/8" and tapped the hole with a 7/16-14 tap to thread. Rear caliper will be mounted to the spindle with Gordon's bracket which is pictured getting ready for POR15 Caliper paint. I'll go ahead and mount the hats to the rotors and complete the safety wire. Keeping my self busy until my delivery!!

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(I'm not painting the car the color of the model on my bench in the pic, just figured I'd share that now. :))

[stevant]

Just completed the assembly and the safety wire on the front rotors.....tomorrow night I'll do the rear.
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[Pineapplehead]

Very cool Steve. Have a great build!

[doddmoore]

Hi all,

Wilwood brake kit from Gordon Levy. (Thanks Duke) I've opted for both power steering and Power Brakes (Hydroboost) and will be getting my Engine setup from Mike Forte. I'm going with an EFI 427 short block and a Tremec TKO 600 w/Hydraulic clutch.



Steve

Congrats Steve, sounds a lot like my order. Looking forward to seeing you go through it. I can't help nearly as much as these amazing guys, but I will be rooting you on!

[shark92651]

Did you get word that your kit has been picked up yet? I'm really Jonesing to hear any word on my kit, which was supposed to have been completed on 3/24.

[stevant]

I was told it was to be picked up on Monday, but have not heard from the driver yet. I’m going to check with Stewart today.

[stevant]

I should have my kit by this Saturday!!!!!!:cool:

[stevant]

Confirmed with FFR, car was loaded on the truck today. Stewart should be delivering on Saturday.

[shark92651]

Confirmed with FFR, car was loaded on the truck today. Stewart should be delivering on Saturday.

So Stewart's driver hasn't contacted you yet? I was told that the driver would be contacting me the day the kit was loaded.

[stevant]

I was told the same, still nothing from the driver. They just told me Saturday.

[stevant]

Finished up my rear brake rotor assembly last night. Much tighter space to run your safety wires with these. My frame stand is all ready for an anticipated Saturday delivery!!!
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PS - I did label my rotors as they are directional.

[stevant]

I’m going to have my aluminum panels powder coated in clear. I’m thinking I should drill out all the panels at first so I can bring them to get powder coated all at the same time. I have read that some have went that path. Sounds right? A lot of cleco’s but at least the monotonous drilling will be out of the way.

[stevant]

Still no phone call from Stewart...... called their office. Will hopefully know more tomorrow. Appears to be MIA at the moment. Saturday is when it should be delivered.......or will it?

[edwardb]

I’m going to have my aluminum panels powder coated in clear. I’m thinking I should drill out all the panels at first so I can bring them to get powder coated all at the same time. I have read that some have went that path. Sounds right? A lot of cleco’s but at least the monotonous drilling will be out of the way.

Yes, that's the best way to do it IMO. Fit and drill first, then powder coat. I like as many clecos as most. But you don't need any more because of that approach. You don't need one in every hole. When you're doing a group of parts, like the cockpit, you'll have clecos in multiple parts. But once that group is done and you move to another area, take those out. I have probably about 75 clecos. Some have more, some have way less.

Just FWIW, not sure of clear only PC. You'll need to do quite a bit of work to get the panels presentable. Defeats a little of the reason to PC in my opinion. They have dye marking that even when cleaned leaves a bit of a shadow. There will be some scratches on them, etc. Maybe have them done silver if you're going for a bare aluminum look.

[shark92651]

Still no phone call from Stewart...... called their office. Will hopefully know more tomorrow. Appears to be MIA at the moment. Saturday is when it should be delivered.......or will it?

There seems to be some issue at Stewart with personell. I was told by Jolene that nothing was picked up on Monday, but a driver finished loading Tuesday evening, but that he had to head to Phoenix due to an illness in the family, and that they were sending another driver there this week to pickup kits for Texas and the Midwest (which I hope includes mine). She again said the driver would contact me once he completes the loading process. Im not sure im following all that.

[stevant]

I’m not following it either. I’ll let you know what I hear today.

Thanks for the input Paul regarding the PC, always appreciated!

[stevant]

Just received my phone call from Stewart. They will be at my house tomorrow morning...... it’s happening!!!!

[John T]

Great! Looking for mine in two or three weeks.

[FLPBFoot]

Just got a call from George, the Stewart Driver. My kit is loaded and he's leaving the FFR parking lot. Has a delivery in Southern IL, Memphis and then up to drop mine off by Wednesday next week!!

Wilwoods and Moser haven't shown up yet. FFR says they are also on their way.

Still a bunch of kits sitting in the final rack at FFR!
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[JMeyer914]

Hoping my kit is somewhere buried in that picture! Stewart was originally planning to pick my kit up this Monday but that was delayed until next week Friday. I'm guessing it will be in the next truckload after this current trip. Good luck to all with your deliveries!

[Hotrodb]

I hope my 33 hot rod stag 1 is in the truck. Was told would be picked up this week and should be to me in about 12 to 14 days in Oregon.

[stevant]

Just got a call from George, the Stewart Driver. My kit is loaded and he's leaving the FFR parking lot. Has a delivery in Southern IL, Memphis and then up to drop mine off by Wednesday next week!!

Wilwoods and Moser haven't shown up yet. FFR says they are also on their way.

Still a bunch of kits sitting in the final rack at FFR!
83642

Your kit was right under mine, saw it this morning!!!

[stevant]

It's official.......my delivery has come!!! George was a great guy, not short on conversation either. He likes Bagels and his coffee black. My build number is 9320. I've attached a bunch of pics. Looks like I have about 20 items on backorder but will confirm tonight after inventory.

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A few things to report, all looks good but a hairline crack in the right Qtr. Panel gelcoat. Not through the glass, just the gelcoat. Plenty of seams to cleanup and fill, just add that one to the rest.

Had an issue with one of my Wilwood rotors, manufactures defect. Gordon was great and so responsive. I'm sending back and a new one is already on the way.

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The one thing that was on my mind as I awaited the kit was the spindle modification. Between the FFR required cutoff, I also had to modify the spindle for Gordon's brake kit as I'm using the IRS with the 15" wheels. I just had to tackle that today and glad I did. All is good! I could have removed a little more material for the FFR required cut but I made them both the same using my band saw. I know that cut is not that critical but wanted it clean, even though others have removed a little more as you will see in my cut. I'm sure it will not be an issue.

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[stevant]

Here are a few more......

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Take a look at the last Pic where I cut the spindle as per the Manual. I made my cut to the inside of the second hole, leaving only the one like it shows. I see some have cut it different. Some have left both holes. Nothing mounts to either hole so does it really make a difference?

Just curious.......

[Hotrodb]

Thank you for the info. I hope you have a blast with your build

[doddmoore]

Finished up my rear brake rotor assembly last night. Much tighter space to run your safety wires with these. My frame stand is all ready for an anticipated Saturday delivery!!!
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PS - I did label my rotors as they are directional.


Do you have plans for this frame stand? I really like the wood on casters to make the build easier, but I didn't know where to place the supports. I think I like the height of this as well.

[wareaglescott]

Congrats on your arrival. Very organized looking work space!
I am going to need a picture of whatever the spare Audi tires go on :)

[stevant]

Congrats on your arrival. Very organized looking work space!
I am going to need a picture of whatever the spare Audi tires go on :)

Here you go Scott....S3 is my daily and the R8 has never seen rain! :cool:

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[stevant]

Do you have plans for this frame stand? I really like the wood on casters to make the build easier, but I didn't know where to place the supports. I think I like the height of this as well.

Hey doddmoore,

I used plans from one of the guys on this forum that I found. Let me see if I can locate for you.

Steve

[stevant]

Ok.....so an issue that does not make sense to me. The Wilwood brakes from Gordon do not fit properly over the rear wheel hub. The hole in the hat is too big. They fit the front rotors perfect but not the back. Did he send me the wrong hat for the rotor? The hub came from ford and they were in the box with my rear spindle so I know they are the rear wheel hub. See pics below.

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Also, the rear wheel studs came out of the hub pretty easy with my vise and lump hammer. Pressing the new ones in is almost impossible. Any comments? Here is a pic of the stud. Could it be the wrong size? I'm using my vise as a press along with a socket. It will not sit flush......and I was using a lot of pressure.

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Here is a pic of my hub part number....that could be wrong also. With the studs not pressing in I'm thinking it might be the hub.....

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I guess it's also possible that the hat is centered using the lug nuts as they do fit snug. I'm going to attempt to pull the studs into the hub using my impact gun. Once I confirm that all the parts I have are correct of course.

[wareaglescott]

Here you go Scott....S3 is my daily and the R8 has never seen rain! :cool:

8381683817

Very nice. Had an S5 I recently traded for a 911.

[edwardb]

Ok.....so an issue that does not make sense to me. The Wilwood brakes from Gordon do not fit properly over the rear wheel hub. The hole in the hat is too big. They fit the front rotors perfect but not the back. Did he send me the wrong hat for the rotor? The hub came from ford and they were in the box with my rear spindle so I know they are the rear wheel hub.

Also, the rear wheel studs came out of the hub pretty easy with my vise and lump hammer. Pressing the new ones in is almost impossible. Any comments? Here is a pic of the stud. Could it be the wrong size? I'm using my vise as a press along with a socket. It will not sit flush......and I was using a lot of pressure.

I guess it's also possible that the hat is centered using the lug nuts as they do fit snug. I'm going to attempt to pull the studs into the hub using my impact gun. Once I confirm that all the parts I have are correct of course.

It takes quite a bit of pressure to pull those studs into the hub. I doubt they would go in using your vise. I've had good luck using an impact wrench. They pull right in. I use a couple of hardened washers, a hardened nut, and coat the parts with grease before using the wrench. Don't use one of your lug nuts unless you want to chew it up pretty good.

You don't want that hat being centered only with the wheel lugs. It should register on the hub center. Assuming Gordon sent you the right part, Wilwood sells various sizes of registration rings. https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/wilwood-hat-rotor-register-ring-adapters. FWIW, the Wilwood brakes FF supplies use a registration ring on the front hub, but not on the back. So it's not an unusual problem.

[stevant]

Gordon just got back to me. These rear rotors and hats are lug centric not hub centric so all is good. He has never needed a spacer. He can try and get one which I might, just need to give him the size. He says I don't need it. I'm feeling better now. Meanwhile the studs pulled right into the hub using the impact wrench.....Thanks!!!

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[stevant]

I just ordered these, according to my measurements they should do the trick! Even though I don't need them I would rather the rotor hat fitting snug around the hub.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-300-11337

Thanks again Paul!!

[stevant]

Some more progress to report. I completed Gordon's rear spindle modification for the IRS with the 15" wheels. All looks good. See attached pics.

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[stevant]

Tonight I assembled my UCA's. They came upside down from FFR so I had to disassemble and reassemble correctly, no biggie. I did go with Pauls choice of upper ball joints and installed the Howe HRE-22320S. They screwed in effortlessly and as you can see in the pic I bought the tool to tighten them in. Who doesn't like a new specialty socket! I also purchased the ball joint boots, Energy 5.13102G. Paul, maybe you can confirm these are the correct boot for this ball joint. The passenger side UCA is the one on top and the drivers side is on the bottom. If anyone sees anything that is not correct please let me know. Will snug up with rough dimensions once installed.

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[edwardb]

Tonight I assembled my UCA's. They came upside down from FFR so I had to disassemble and reassemble correctly, no biggie. I did go with Pauls choice of upper ball joints and installed the Howe HRE-22320S. They screwed in effortlessly and as you can see in the pic I bought the tool to tighten them in. Who doesn't like a new specialty socket! I also purchased the ball joint boots, Energy 5.13102G. Paul, maybe you can confirm these are the correct boot for this ball joint. The passenger side UCA is the one on top and the drivers side is on the bottom. If anyone sees anything that is not correct please let me know. Will snug up with rough dimensions once installed.

Looking good. 5.13102G are the UCA ball joint boots I've used as well on several builds. Hopefully you used plenty of Loctite on those ball joints and it's also recommended to put a witness mark on the ball joint and plate so you can monitor and make sure they aren't loose and/or backing out. I haven't had any issues with mine, but several builders have reported that. Not just the Howe ball joint. Any of them. Some even recommend a welding tack joint, but I haven't gone that far. Just something to keep in mind.

[stevant]

I used the loctite blue, but can back out and use red if you think. The Howe ball joints move so smoothly, I can't even budge the Mevotech ball joints with my hands at all. I assume the Howe should move so freely..........

Do you think I will have any problem torquing them down to 75 lbs. without the ball tuning in the socket?

[edwardb]

I used the loctite blue, but can back out and use red if you think. The Howe ball joints move so smoothly, I can't even budge the Mevotech ball joints with my hands at all. I assume the Howe should move so freely..........

Do you think I will have any problem torquing them down to 75 lbs. without the ball tuning in the socket?

I've used blue in mine and haven't seen any movement. I only use red when specifically instructed (e.g. Wilwood) or basically if I don't plan to have to take it apart again. That stuff is tough. Yes, the Howe joints move nice and free right out of the box. But as long as they don't have any slop (mine sure don't...) they should be good to go. I suspect the others would be much looser once they have a little road time. 75 lbs sounds about right. I don't have a fancy socket for mine (;)) so they get a good grunt with a large combination wrench. No possibility for a torque wrench.

[stevant]

So, in case I forgot to mention, my Koni shocks along with my lower control arms are on backorder so I'm finding other things to do before I start the build from the beginning. I started prepping the pedal box by painting the steel brackets with epoxy paint.

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Thanks to Paul for telling me about the Wilwood Registration Rings. I found the one I needed for my Gordon Levy Rear brake setup and they work perfect.......thanks for the lesson Paul!!

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Lastly for the night, my sons and I discussed the undercarriage of the car and what we wanted to see when completed. We unaminously decided that we like the contrast and colors of the different materials of the undercarriage of a car. Since everything is new, it will look like Jewelry under there. I don't want to paint everything black because then it all blends........IMO of course. We have decided to go ahead and clear the majority of the major components as to see them against the powder coated frame and other metals, it's a look that we like. Nothing will be left in raw metal as we don't want anything to rust. This car will never see rain so I'm not worried about excessive water exposure but with a durable clear coat on things, it will be fine. I completed our IRS Center section bracket so we can now work like gentleman moving that beast around. We are going to clear that also with an epoxy based clear coat. The finish on there works well under the car.

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I rolled the stand under the car so I could imagine it in place!!!!!!

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[shark92651]

Looking good! But I think that custom-made rolling diff stand is a little over the top! I thought I was fancy when I throw a couple pieces of 2x4 on a furniture dolly so that I could roll my trans around on it ;)

[stevant]

I have issues..... lol. Could be worse...it’s the cabinet maker in me!

[stevant]

My son and I were able to remove the shell from the frame. We set it up on top of our body buck and placed it into our storage tent. It should be fine there until we need it, at least I hope. :)

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We will start marking out our panels at start drilling...and drilling........and yes more drilling. Still not sure of the finish for the panels. I like the aluminum look but want it to have a little more durability than just raw aluminum. Powder coat like others, undercoat one side, clear the engine bay side. Need to make a decision.

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I cleared my rear center section with epoxy clear. I really like the way it turned out. Great coloring with the black frame and a nice durable shine.

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More progress tomorrow.......

[edwardb]

Center section looks great. Including the rolling stand. ;) Hopefully you put some clear on that nice shiny pinion flange too. Can't tell from the pics. Those turn rusty almost immediately once it hits the street.

[Fabb]

Center section looks great. Including the rolling stand. ;) Hopefully you put some clear on that nice shiny pinion flange too. Can't tell from the pics. Those turn rusty almost immediately once it hits the street.

I am planning on painting my center section this weekend, was planning POR for the iron and clear on the rear aluminum. However, I assumed i needed to cover/avoid the pinion flange. Is there a proper taping plan to avoid the gear part of the flange and just hit the outer rim then?

Thanks
-B

[edwardb]

I am planning on painting my center section this weekend, was planning POR for the iron and clear on the rear aluminum. However, I assumed i needed to cover/avoid the pinion flange. Is there a proper taping plan to avoid the gear part of the flange and just hit the outer rim then?

Thanks
-B

With a little bit of care I don't think it's a big deal. There's a plastic piece between the pinion flange and the actual case. I assume it's part of the underlying bearing and seal. When I've done mine, I mask on one side to paint the case and mask on the other side when painting the pinion flange. Visible in this pic and obvious that I avoided it. No other moving parts or anything to be concerned with IMO.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/th_IMG_3256_zpsmoqf2oqg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3256_zpsmoqf2oqg.jpg.html)

[stevant]

Thanks for the kind words Paul. I did indeed clear the pinion flange so all is protected.

[stevant]

I'm starting on the rear of the car since I don't have my front lower control arms. I also don't have my shocks but at least I'm able to get a good portion of the rear so I'm just not sitting around. I was able to install the center section this morning. I was anticipating a struggle after reading some of the other installs, fortunately mine went in with relatively minimal manipulation. :D

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Tonight I was able to install the upper and lower control arms along with the toe-arms. The mount tabs had to be spread in a few areas but in general they were not too bad. Will torque the bolts tomorrow after I grease the fittings. Axles and Knuckles on tap for tomorrow night.

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[stevant]

I was able to get the axles installed tonight along with the rear spindles. I greased all the rear fittings and torqued all the control arm bolts but not the bolts on the spindles. Still waiting for my shocks to come in. Im going to keep working on items that I can. Once I get my front end pieces I can move forward with that also. I'm probably going to assemble the gas tank next. I'm going to complete the rear bumper mounts like Paul did as once the tank is installed, getting to the rear bumper bolts will require dropping the tank. Not a good option. I'll go with Pauls idea instead!!

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[edwardb]

Looking good! Full disclosure. Appreciate the shout out, but the coupler thing for the rear bumpers isn't my idea. Not sure who came up with it. It's one of many great mods that's been bouncing around on the forums for a long time.

[stevant]

Not much to report tonight other than a lesson learned. I was so excited last night when I completed the rear that when I looked into the rear sway bar, the mounts use the same bolts as the lower control arms and the toe-bar. So.........out they came and in went the mounts. Not too big a deal just a little extra muscle as everything was nicely torqued.

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I also went ahead and ran my center section vent.............until tomorrow!!

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[stevant]

For those using a sway bar, you know what this picture is and you surely know how difficult it is to cut. Can't wait to do the front......:eek:

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[stevant]

I started painting my F panels last night, like Papa, I’m using Rustoleum Bed liner paint. I really like the finish. The one thing in addition is I’ll be going over it with Eastwood matte expoxy clear. It is very durable and will give much better protection from scratches. It really enhances the durability. I’ll also be using black rivets.

[stevant]

My lower control arms came in today along with my sway bar bushings. Not too much building going on tonight except for that. I did put a coat of clear epoxy on the sway bar brackets. I rethought my decision in the post above and I'm going to powder coat my panels. I found a local guy who will powder coat them to look just like the bed liner paint that Papa used. I was going to go that route but if I could get the same look with greater durability, I have to go with the better option. I'll post pics of my F panels as soon as I pick them up.

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[stevant]

Still waiting on some parts, continuing to drill panel holes and use my Cleco's. Trimmed and fit my firewall support. Mounted the front sway bar along with the steering rack. Had to remove the stock bushings from the rack to install the supplied ones from FFR. Assembled my fuel filter and ready to mount! Going to clear coat the tie-rod ends too, pic is showing ready to be sprayed in the morning.......just keep plugging away!!

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[stevant]

Still waiting for my Koni's along with my 15" wheels. Once the Koni's come I'll be able to complete the suspension. Hopefully the wheels come so I can make this a rolling chassis. My powder coated F panels came back and I could not be happier. They look great. Going to be dropping off the majority of them later this week. Only a few more panels to drill and that will be that..............I know I'm preaching to the choir, there are a lot of holes to drill!!! Ran my front brake lines. Followed Paul's routing along with the retaining clips. Tapped into the frame. They really look good. Gas tank is assembled. Internal Walbro 255 on the hanger, that was a bit of work to get that into the hole. Don't want to have to pull that out. I also removed the ABS ring from my front hubs. Used my wheel puller. I cleaned them up and spayed them with some clear. Trying to preserve all in it's original metal finish.

Here are attached pics of my progress.

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.....a few more in the next post.

[stevant]

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[Boydster]

Nice work on the brake lines. Looks nice.

[stevant]

Thank you........ right tools always help! Edward b made it easy for me to reference with his 20th anniversary build.

[shark92651]

Question, why remove the ABS rings? Also, did you run stainless brake lines? Looking good!

[stevant]

Thanks!!.....,Since I will not be using them, they serve no purpose. I was not happy seeing that ring around the hub . Yes, those are and will be all SS brake lines. Will do the same with the gas line.

[stevant]

So, I was able to mount my front spindles tonight. Upper and lower ball joints fell in place. Steering linkage went well, torqued my hub to 250 ft lbs. Rotors are on temporarily for the look. Just waiting on my Koni's all around and we'll have a rolling chassis. ( Need my wheels too) I do have one concern and the attached pics will show it. All in all everything mounts one way so there really is not too much that can go wrong in regard to placement of the components. My upper control arms are in spec to the manual so I'm a little confused with the wheel camber at this point. With all sides being the same and the adjustments equal, the camber should be consistent on both sides. Am I thinking through this correctly? What can deviate it other than the upper control arm settings, right? There are no other adjustable components. Take a look at the level in the photos. my passenger side has much more camber than my drivers side and all is the same. Any one have an explanation as to why that might be?

Here are the pics of tonights work.

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[wareaglescott]

IS the car sitting perfectly level on the frame dolly?

[stevant]

Great point Scott........ even though the car is level to the dolly, the dolly is not level to the floor. My garage floor slopes. I jacked up my frame and made it perfectly level. With all settings the same on both sides, my level was within a tolerance which I assume is more manageable. My right rotor still has more camber but it’s about 1/32- 1/16 more than the left at the top of the rotor.

I guess I should not be concerned? I’m using tools with tolerances to make furniture, I’m sure more accurate measuring devices will show much better results........I hope!!

[Boydster]

Small changes can make big differences when it comes to adjustments on the front end. When you say all is equal, are you counting threads? Every adjustment affects all other adjustments... is the caster the same? Is the toe the same? The dolly may be perfectly level.. is the floor? When I did my alignment, I was turning the adjusters 1 flat at a time for fine adjustments... and yes, it mattered.

IMHO, I think you are way too early to be concerned about this. You need weight on wheels, ride height set and steering centered in the frame before getting to this point. Anything can make the adjustment change...

edit: My build has been ongoing for 14 months now, and I only did the alignment about 2 months ago. I left the wheels lookin all wonky and out of whack and not worried about it until it was time to do so.

[stevant]

Point we’ll taken and thanks for the support. Too much OCD at this point. I have to believe in the design and specs of the things I can’t change. (Upper and lower control arms, spindles, etc). As long as they are within their production tolerances I know the alignment will work out fine once it’s ready to complete. These are all bolt on parts so hard to really mess that up. Unless you are drilling out your mounting points, all will be fine. No more placing the cart before the horse!

I’ll keep moving on with my build!!

[stevant]

One more observation. My front hubs are Tq to 250 so they are secure I do notice that they are free moving touching nothing but each revolution I hear a clunk from each one? Like it is hitting something. You can hear it in the frame.....any concerns you think?

[stevant]

Am I the only one that has a noise in their hubs? Lol.......

[Boydster]

No noises in my hubs. If it's not hitting anything, its gotta be in the bearings and races...

[stevant]

Call me stupid........I was spinning the rotor with only one bolt holding it in place. As snug as it was it was moving each rotation, clanking against the hub so slightly. I put another lug on the rotor to snug both sides and we have quiet!!!!!!

I know........I know.........like I said, stupid!

[stevant]

Ok....so the build id going well. Will be uploading more progress shots. Here is my question. I am up to drilling out the last panel before I bring all the panels to be powder coated. Some are done and they look great. The only panel that is giving me a little bit of struggle is the back panel behind the seats. Anyone have trouble with it? I can't get it to sit down enough. I've attached two pics showing the lower tab of the rear interior (drivers side) panel and the weld it is hitting. This is causing the panel to be sitting up about an 1/8". Should I grind out the weld and use POR15 on it or notch out the aluminum where it is hitting. Just wanted opinions and to see if anyone has had a problem with the back panel.

8555685557

Thanks,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

I had to trim a few panels for best fit. I personally found it much easier to trim them than grind a weld.

[edwardb]

I had to trim a few panels for best fit. I personally found it much easier to trim them than grind a weld.

X2. Generally I trim the aluminum vs. the weld. For the location you're describing, just enlarge the notch as necessary.

[stevant]

Would it be out of the question to have to re-bend the tab? I notched the aluminum, still need more drop. If I made the tab, a little longer it would allow the back to sit in better. Drop down further. I could raise the other side up to I suppose. Im probably overthinking as once it gets Dynamat and carpet who can tell anyway. Are you sealing all the seams once completed with a bead of silicone to avoid any water to come in? I am placing silicone where the panels get rivets but was figuring on running a bead with my finger on all interior seams.....thoughts? Very neat of course!

[edwardb]

Would it be out of the question to have to re-bend the tab? I notched the aluminum, still need more drop. If I made the tab, a little longer it would allow the back to sit in better. Drop down further. I could raise the other side up to I suppose. Im probably overthinking as once it gets Dynamat and carpet who can tell anyway. Are you sealing all the seams once completed with a bead of silicone to avoid any water to come in? I am placing silicone where the panels get rivets but was figuring on running a bead with my finger on all interior seams.....thoughts? Very neat of course!

6061 doesn't like to be bent, straightened and then re-bent. Especially a pretty tight 90 degree bend like that one. May or may not be successful. It could easily work harden and crack. Check the overall positioning of the part. I've found those bends to be pretty accurate. But I agree. Don't overthink it. That area is behind the seats and if it isn't perfect, only you will know it. (Easy for me to say... I often spend way too much time on stuff that's never seen.)

If you're putting silicone or some type of adhesive on the panels as you rivet them in, no need to add additional unless there's an obvious opening or crack. You'll have some. Around the seat belt tabs, around the footbox tubes, etc. Typically it takes more than just a bead of something. Aluminum tape works well. Some make up small patch pieces from aluminum. I used Marine-Tex epoxy putty on #8674. Worked great, but is maybe overkill.

[stevant]

I have not posted much as I've been busy but have made progress with a few things. My Koni's finally came but unfortunately my kit did not come with any retainer clips for the coil-over caps. Spoke with Dan at FFR who is sending me four clips so I can finally mount my shocks.....progress!! I had ordered the dash panel from FFR but did not realize it was plastic with vinyl covering. I decided, after looking at others, to order a blank panel and create the competition layout that Paul did. In fact he was nice enough to share his dimensions which was a great starting point for me. I also had to make my own glovebox. Thanks to others who have posted great detail and photos of how they did it, I kind of followed suit and was able to create my own. Here are several pics of my glove box build.

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I'm now in the process of making my door.............:D

[Straversi]

Nice work. Looking good!
-Steve

[stevant]

I forgot to post my radiator install and my rear brake lines. No major difference than others but want not show what was done........

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I'm going with a Hydroboost setup from Mike Forte so once I receive I will move forward with my brakes and hopefully get started on my pedal box. Gas tank install should be ready to go this week along with the rest of my panels going over to the powder coating company.

[stevant]

Nice work. Looking good!
-Steve


Thank you Steve.....appreciate your help also!!

[Papa]

I have not posted much as I've been busy but have made progress with a few things. My Koni's finally came but unfortunately my kit did not come with any retainer clips for the coil-over caps. Spoke with Dan at FFR who is sending me four clips so I can finally mount my shocks.....progress!! I had ordered the dash panel from FFR but did not realize it was plastic with vinyl covering. I decided, after looking at others, to order a blank panel and create the competition layout that Paul did. In fact he was nice enough to share his dimensions which was a great starting point for me. I also had to make my own glovebox. Thanks to others who have posted great detail and photos of how they did it, I kind of followed suit and was able to create my own. Here are several pics of my glove box build.

85689856908569885691856928569385694856958569685697

I'm now in the process of making my door.............:D

That looks fantastic, Steve. I wish I had that kind of fabrication skill.

Dave

[stevant]

Thank you Dave.......I was nervous taking it on but happy so far with the results.

[Scubasommer]

I decided, after looking at others, to order a blank panel and create the competition layout that Paul did. In fact he was nice enough to share his dimensions which was a great starting point for me. I also had to make my own glovebox. Thanks to others who have posted great detail and photos of how they did it, I kind of followed suit and was able to create my own. Here are several pics of my glove box build.

Looking great my friend!
Would you mind sharing your glovebox specs also as I am doing the same thing with the blank dash and would like to get a head start on the glovebox.

Thanks
Jimmy

[stevant]

Hey Jimmy.......I could send you a pattern out of some flashing if you want to use as a template? Let me know if that would help.

[stevant]

I made a little progress last night. Installed my gas tank along with my couplers for the body mounts. Don't want to take the tank out to mount the body. I used 7/16-14 couplers. I also started running braided fuel line from my pump to the filter. I actually enjoy making the lengths of braided line. Tomorrow I will run my SS fuel lines if time permits. My shocks finally came in so my suspension is getting buttoned up. Still waiting for my 15" wheels from FFR. We are not too far from a rolling chassis. I'm making a template for my glove box door. Once my .040 aluminum comes in I'll make the door and hinge it to the glove box. I'll disassemble when it comes time to wrap in leather. Speaking of which once I order my hide I can work on my cutouts for my gauges. Picked up my battery box from powder coating, this guys work is excellent. Mounted it to the front X-member. Dropped off some of the bigger panels to him also today. Making Progress!!!

Here are some pics:

858058580685807858088580985810

[Scubasommer]

That would be awesome

[stevant]

PM me your address and I’ll send it out. I’ll cut one out today. :cool:

[stevant]

I was able to run the fuel lines tonight. I know I will probably have to move them to work on the panels and so but at least they are all bent and the clips are mounted so going back together should be easy. Here are pics of how I ran my lines. I used all SS lines and clips. 3/8 feed and return for my Walbro 255 setup. Definitely getting good use out of my bending tool!! Awaiting my big vent kit from Breeze, then I'll be completing my charcoal canister.

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[Papa]

Looks great, Steve!

Dave

[stevant]

Thanks Dave!!

[stevant]

Thank you again Dave for sending me a sample of your leather. I received it today. A generous size piece I may add. Now I can see what holes I have to make in my dash. I drilled a 2-1/8" hole for my smaller gauges, wrapped the leather and it was perfect for the gauge. Slipped in nice with ever so slightly room. I used a hole saw, but tomorrow I will try again with my circle cutter. I might want to make it even snugger!!

85916

Looking good!!

[stevant]

Continued making progress on my glove box. Completed my door using two pieces of .040 aluminum. Worked out great. Ordered the hinges Paul used in his build. Latch is from a VW. Once I get my leather and start to wrap my dash, if needed, I will adjust the door accordingly. The screws holding in the hinges are temporary, had to order shorter ones of course. I also completed my charcoal vent canister filter for my gas tank.......like I said, making progress!!! :)

85972859738597485975

[Papa]

Thank you again Dave for sending me a sample of your leather. I received it today. A generous size piece I may add. Now I can see what holes I have to make in my dash. I drilled a 2-1/8" hole for my smaller gauges, wrapped the leather and it was perfect for the gauge. Slipped in nice with ever so slightly room. I used a hole saw, but tomorrow I will try again with my circle cutter. I might want to make it even snugger!!

85916

Looking good!!

Steve,

You're welcome. That looks great! Good enough that I'd consider skipping the padding unless you plan to add stitching or just like the plusher look. I went with a very thin 1/8" dense foam padding on my tunnel cover and I like how that came out. I did the French stitch on the tunnel cover along the edge between the top and sides.

Dave

[stevant]

I was thinking no padding. I’m not crazy about the plushy look at least not too plushy. With the 2 oz leather and that texture it looks great. I like the stitching you did also as Im going to wrap my center console also. I bought the heavier gauge aluminum one.

[stevant]

Finally received my Hydroboost setup from Mike Forte. Overall it has all worked out. Like many times in the build you have to wrap your head around how it's going to work since you are deviating from the manual to install things like this. Good news there were not too many modifications made to install it. I sent my wilwood pedal box to Mike where he makes changes to accommodate the unit, so it comes back to you assembled and basically ready to install. I'm currently in the process of cleaning up the aluminum panel so the Hydroboost sits directly on the steel firewall.

I'm attaching a bunch of pics just to make sure the tolerances of the pedals are correct. Even though the pedal box is modified for the Hydroboost, the mounting of the pedal box and it's orientation are all the same. That does not change so I know the locations of my pedals are to spec, they just look different in regard to how they hook up to the Master Cylinder and that I'm using a Hydraulic clutch. No wildwood MC's here.....

If any of the pics appear incorrect please let me know.

This pic shows the overall mounting and assembly of the pedal box. No nuts on the last two studs as that is where my MC for my Clutch will mount.
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The manual is a little confusing as it shows two pics of the brake and clutch switch mounts on either side of the brace. I ended up placing it on the backside closest to the pedal. I'll assume that is correct.
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Here is the brake pedal sitting really close to the cross brace. I'll assume again it does not come that far up once hooked up, but it caused a little concern after install.
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Here is a pic of the back of the clutch pedal. Once again you have to push it back for it to hit the 3/4" bar but it will hit it. Another assumption that once hooked it will not travel that far back anyway so should not be a problem. I'm concerned about this one.
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Here is a pic of where the Hydroboost mounts. Can you find the extra hole I had to drill to mount it? :rolleyes:
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Once again, the pedal box only installs one way and dictates it's own location but just want to be sure the pedal throws will not be disturbed by the frame structure they sit within.
86286

Next pics posted will be of Hydroboost in place with my powder coated aluminum panel for the firewall. Then I can start moving forward with the rest of the drivers footbox area.

[stevant]

Have been making more progress with my build. Hydroboost unit had a manufactures defect on the MC. The threads were not correct which would not allow the banjo fitting to tighten against the crush washer. Definitely happened from the factory. Mike took it right back of course and is sending me out another. Mike's a great guy!! Upper steering shaft finally came in so I was able to get that together. Still waiting for a bunch of panels from the powder coater. I can start getting some panels installed along with the firewall so I can move forward in the drivers foot box area. I also drilled out my dash. I want to send a special Thank you to Edward B (Paul). He has been a great resource for me and I know I'm not alone when I say he is very much appreciated as he always has time for a question or two, three, four....five, six.......... Thanks again Paul!!

Here are a bunch of pics of my progress.

86484864858648686487864888648986490864918649286493

Next post a few more..........

[Skippyrock]

Hey man, great work so far. I too am from Long Island. I plan on ordering my kit at the end of the year. Can’t wait to see how your build progresses. It’s got me excited. Mind if I pick your brain when I order my kit? Your set up is similar to what I want to do.

[stevant]

No problem, be glad to help where I can. Congrats on your consideration. If you can do it, do it. It’s an awesome project with a lot of reward at many levels.

[FLPBFoot]

Have been making more progress with my build. Hydroboost unit had a manufactures defect on the MC. The threads were not correct which would not allow the banjo fitting to tighten against the crush washer. Definitely happened from the factory. Mike took it right back of course and is sending me out another. Mike's a great guy!! Upper steering shaft finally came in so I was able to get that together. Still waiting for a bunch of panels from the powder coater. I can start getting some panels installed along with the firewall so I can move forward in the drivers foot box area. I also drilled out my dash. I want to send a special Thank you to Edward B (Paul). He has been a great resource for me and I know I'm not alone when I say he is very much appreciated as he always has time for a question or two, three, four....five, six.......... Thanks again Paul!!

Here are a bunch of pics of my progress.

86484864858648686487864888648986490864918649286493

Next post a few more..........

My upper steering shaft just showed up as well. Went into the lower no problem but the steering wheel hub seems very tight on the shaft. Is yours like that? I can only get it on may 1/3 of the way and don't want to force it as I may want to take it off until closer to the final assembly point.

Thanks

Steve

[Kilner]

awesome car. that color combo is beautiful! i see you completed in 302 days, very cool! About how many labor hours did the build take you?

[stevant]

My upper steering shaft just showed up as well. Went into the lower no problem but the steering wheel hub seems very tight on the shaft. Is yours like that? I can only get it on may 1/3 of the way and don't want to force it as I may want to take it off until closer to the final assembly point.

Thanks

Steve


Hey Steve,

If you take a closer look at the upper steering shaft where the steering wheel hub mounts, it's tapered. Once you install the center bolt, it will pull tight into the taper allowing the wheel to tighten onto the shaft. Until then you can only push it on so much as the bolt will be needed to pull the upper shaft into the hub. Mine is not on tight either , I just have the upper shaft pushed further into the lower shaft at the moment.

I hope that makes sense.......

[stevant]

Made a little more progress today. Picked up a bunch of panels from being powder coated. I really like the mini-texture finish. I was able to mount my aluminum panel on the firewall which allowed me to move forward with my entire steering shaft, mounting of my Hydroboost unit and installation of my clutch MC along with all the linkage involved with the brake and clutch. I was surprised after mounting the clutch that the clutch pedal was hitting the 3/4" steel tubing up top. I know the forum has many incidents of this and there are a few fixes out there but I thought that was kits of the past. I was under the impression that was resolved with the newer kits but apparently not. I decided to notch the clutch pedal instead of cutting the 3/4" tubing and placing another piece beside it. The Wilwood pedal is all aluminum and very strong. The little notch needed to get full throw on the clutch has no bearing on the structural integrity of the pedal. The notch was easy enough to complete with a Dremel so I'm sure it will be fine once I'm ready to shift gears...........looking forward to that!!!!!

Here are more pics of my progress and the notch I made for the pedal clearance.

866028660386604866058660686607

[Duke]

Looking good.

[stevant]

Thanks Duke!

[Higgybulin]

Can you say Killin' It!!! Your doing a great job! Keep it up.
Higgy

[stevant]

Thanks Higgy! :)

[stevant]

I mounted my Engine Kill switch right above the transmission tunnel like some, I wanted a switch plate and wanted to play off the switch design itself and my steering wheel spokes. I'm going to polish the aluminum and have it engraved "Locked" for the off position and "Loaded" for the on position. Personal touches here and there......

8662686627

Also in the process of mounting my CNC triple reservoir bracket. I'm using the Hydroboost setup so one of the fittings on the unit might keep me from mounting the reservoir closer to the firewall. In speaking to Edward B, he also suggested I make sure it's not to close to the front of the car as I would need room for the hood strut. Thanks Paul!! I'll take some measurements but here is what it might look like when completed. Bolts used are temporary.

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[Papa]

I mounted my Engine Kill switch right above the transmission tunnel like some, I wanted a switch plate and wanted to play off the switch design itself and my steering wheel spokes. I'm going to polish the aluminum and have it engraved "Locked" for the off position and "Loaded" for the on position. Personal touches here and there......

8662686627

Also in the process of mounting my CNC triple reservoir bracket. I'm using the Hydroboost setup so one of the fittings on the unit might keep me from mounting the reservoir closer to the firewall. In speaking to Edward B, he also suggested I make sure it's not to close to the front of the car as I would need room for the hood strut. Thanks Paul!! I'll take some measurements but here is what it might look like when completed. Bolts used are temporary.

8662886629866308663186631

You're doing some really nice work there, Steve.

Dave

[stevant]

Thank you Dave!!!

[stevant]

More progress.......my MC came back from Mike Forte, all good of course. Was able to move forward with my brake lines. Need about another 3 ft to finish the job, unfortunately need to buy more. Did you say budget?....what budget. :rolleyes: Thanks to Jimland, I picked up a Wilwood proportioning valve (Bracket not included, had to make that) for the Hydroboost setup I went with. Was not even thinking about that but makes total sense to have control over the front and rear brake input. No balance bar on this setup. The valve comes with a brake switch sender which I'm going to plug since I'll be using the brake switch up on the pedal. It also has independent outputs for the front brakes. So you can run a line directly to each front caliper from the valve. According to Wilwood there is no advantage to doing so. In my case I chose their other option as I was setup this way prior to the valve install. (Yes, I followed Edward B's brake line setup....Thanks again Paul) I'll only use one of the valve outputs and plug the other as my brake lines "T" into two separate runs at the left caliper. Just some FYI. Also, I received Gordon's Pinion Parking brake setup. Since I'm running 15" wheels with the IRS, there is no room in the wheel for the parking brake. Gordon makes both the brake adaptor kit for the 15" wheel setup when using the Wilwood's and the Pinion brake setup so it all works. Nice Job Gordon.........(Thank you again Duke for your direction with this.)

Here are some pics of what's been done. Any comment on the 3/16" brake line into the banjo fitting on the MC would be appreciated. Want to make sure that is the correct way for that fitting. I did a double flare but it looks like it's setup for an AN fitting also if you choose a SS hose.

8687786878868798688086881

Here are a few pics of the pinion brake in a temporary setup to make sure it all works....and it will. Also showing the bracket painted and installed. Will complete the rest when the driveshaft is ready to go in.

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Oh yeah.....my switches came in............:cool:

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[shark92651]

Wow Steve your build is looking awesome! How many hours are you putting into it each week? I mostly just have the weekends to work on mine, but making progress. You must have got the last of the Koni shocks as mine are still on back-order.

[stevant]

Thank you Shark....... I try to put in an hour or two per day. Usually later in the evening from about 9-11....... sometimes more. Depends if the wife starts rolling her eyes at me.

[stevant]

Assembled the passenger side foot box along with center panel. Can I go ahead and install the inner panels of the drivers side at this time? I know to keep the outer and top ones off. Just curious if there is any reason the drivers inner panels cannot go on.

Some progress photos:

86894868958689686897

[stevant]

Two questions today. The drivers side floor panel has a tab that sits behind the inner panel of the foot box panel. Pictured below. (Well the tab is not visible but you know what I mean...)

86905

The logical order is to put the floor panel in before starting the foot box. Has anyone put the tab on the outside of the foot box panel? This way I could continue on the foot box without having to put the floor panel down yet. I guess I could put the floor down but not sure where I am in the build if thats a good idea? Brake and fuel lines are already done but no electrical harness runs have been started. Thoughts????

Next question is the large hole in the passenger side foot box on the lower outside bottom corner. I'm going to be installing Dynamat on the interior so it will cover it but I want to seal it up. How have most been doing that? Make a tight fitting panel and silicone it in?

86906

[GlenH]

Call me stupid........I was spinning the rotor with only one bolt holding it in place. As snug as it was it was moving each rotation, clanking against the hub so slightly. I put another lug on the rotor to snug both sides and we have quiet!!!!!!

I know........I know.........like I said, stupid!

Don't feel bad. I did the exact same thing. Grabbed one of my boys to take a look at it and he just looked at me and shook his head. I felt like and idiot.

[stevant]

It happens.......the simplest things sometimes just make you scratch your head!! That's when I use my line " I knew that, just wanted see if you did" Makes me feel better at least.....;)

[stevant]

Two questions today. The drivers side floor panel has a tab that sits behind the inner panel of the foot box panel. Pictured below. (Well the tab is not visible but you know what I mean...)

86905

The logical order is to put the floor panel in before starting the foot box. Has anyone put the tab on the outside of the foot box panel? This way I could continue on the foot box without having to put the floor panel down yet. I guess I could put the floor down but not sure where I am in the build if thats a good idea? Brake and fuel lines are already done but no electrical harness runs have been started. Thoughts????

Next question is the large hole in the passenger side foot box on the lower outside bottom corner. I'm going to be installing Dynamat on the interior so it will cover it but I want to seal it up. How have most been doing that? Make a tight fitting panel and silicone it in?

86906

Maybe my questions got lost in the thread? Any suggestions?

[edwardb]

Maybe my questions got lost in the thread? Any suggestions?

With the fuel and brake lines installed, no real advantage IMO to not putting down the floor panels now and putting the tab where it's intended to go. Electrical harness will be inside the transmission tunnel.

For that area in the PS footbox, I make a little filler piece and glue it in. I've seen several builds do the same thing. Then Dynamat like you said. It's a little too big for Dynamat alone IMO.

[stevant]

As always.....Thanks!!!! Will get the floor panels over to be powder coated next!!

[Papa]

Like Paul said - glue a patch in for that hole.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84555&d=1524421186

Dave

[stevant]

Made a little more progress tonight. Still waiting for a grommet for the firewall and a few clamps. Mounted my triple CNC Reservoir. Hooked it up to the Hydroboost. Some closeup shots if others decide to go this route.

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[stevant]

Thanks for the pic Dave!!

[stevant]

I finished the brake lines today. Also clamped the fuel lines in so they are done too.............sending out more panels for powder coat tomorrow. Will start assembling the interior panels so to move on to the drivers foot box. Will be starting my battery line runs this week, getting ready for the harness. Making progress!!!

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[stevant]

Starting to work on my dash and filler panels. Setting it all up to finalize fitment. Once I do I will mount my underside support braces and secure the dash to the upper 3/4" tubing. Going to fasten similar to Paul and Scott, with the fasteners hidden from behind. No screws through the front panel for me. Here are pics of various angles showing it all clamped up. Looking forward to wrapping it all in leather so I can fit all the gauges!!

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[stevant]

Car has been on the back burner, my youngest just graduated High School. I was finally able to get the dashboard mounted with my blind mounts. I used Mike Everson's lower panel which I cut into three parts so I would still be able to access my wires and blind mounts. Very happy with how it came out and once screwed in tight, it is really secure. Need to go ahead and make my brackets for the grab handle which will sit below the glovebox. All my holes have been completed and everything trial fitted. Time to get my leather work done!!!

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My engine is complete and ready to be picked up from Mike Forte. Will be making the trip up in about two weeks, by then I should be ready to drop her in.......at least that's the plan!! :D

[stevant]

I could not resist a test fit............DAP Landau glue (Thanks Edward B) on the way, going to start the leather!!!

876738767487675

[cv2065]

That dash looks fantastic Steve!!

[stevant]

Thanks CV, just installed my Lucas switches. Getting ready to work on the leather this week. I'm sure you are excited about getting your kit.

Good Luck and post away as you proceed.

Thanks again for the kind words,

Steve

[shark92651]

Looking good Steve! Can you do me a favor and check a couple measurements for me since I am about to start this part of the build and we are basically using the same parts?

Can you take a measurement from this point down to the top of the hoop?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/42971444932_28b59a0673.jpg

Also, how far through the dash does the turned part of your Russ Thompson tube extend through the dash and/or the distance to the end of the tube? I'm talking with Russ and want to make sure his new design is correct for the latest MK4 changes.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1764/42302502244_e26fd56d0c_c.jpg

[stevant]

I’ll check those measurements tonight and send them over. :D

[stevant]

That looks very close to mine by the way but we can share dimensions. It seems to work fine as is. Are you thinking it should be extending further out than that? Overall the wheel should be about 4” or so off the dash if I remember correctly.

[stevant]

Looking good Steve! Can you do me a favor and check a couple measurements for me since I am about to start this part of the build and we are basically using the same parts?

Can you take a measurement from this point down to the top of the hoop?

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/42971444932_28b59a0673.jpg

Also, how far through the dash does the turned part of your Russ Thompson tube extend through the dash and/or the distance to the end of the tube? I'm talking with Russ and want to make sure his new design is correct for the latest MK4 changes.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1764/42302502244_e26fd56d0c_c.jpg

Ok, answer to the first question is 3/8” on both sides. As for the second question, my turn signal column sits almost exactly like yours. I have the Mike Everson finish collar on in the pic. My turn signal portion only slips down about half way. I think yours is going to be perfect as is. I'll attach some additional pics.

[stevant]

Here are some pics:

878008780187802878038780487805

[shark92651]

Thanks Steve! I also heard back from Russ and he confirmed that everything looks correct and no modifications needed.

[stevant]

No problem, looks like yours is good to go to me also. Are you going use the blind mount method to attach your dash?

[shark92651]

No problem, looks like yours is good to go to me also. Are you going use the blind mount method to attach your dash?

I hope to be able to mount both the dash and trans tunnel cover without any visible fasteners.

[JL1744]

Hi, This is Jim. I was at the class with my son. If you remember he spent 50% outside the classroom. I just ordered my kit and expect delivery mid August. How is your build going?

[stevant]

Hi Jim...........which class are you referring too?

[stevant]

Time to get going on my harness! This is the area that had me a little concerned but after ironing out a few kinks in my understanding with Edward B, we are all good! Need to make a few modifications to the harness itself, once all my parts come in I'm going to start running my battery feed and main harness so I can branch off from there. Like to be neat with this stuff..............it's steady as she goes!!!!!

Mounted my support panel.
88384

Rear support added.
88385

While I was in there, set screws added to my steering column, don't want any movement!!
88386

Started adding my Dynamat now that Im running the harness in that area.
8838788388

Started my harness modifications to fit my setup.
88389

Now to keep plugging away!!!!

[lewma]

Stevant, I'm at the exact same stage of my build as you. I laid out the RF wiring harness, and the coyote controls pack, then scratched my head a few times, then a few times more. It's a little confusing to me right now but I'm going to read build threads and take the wiring slow.

[stevant]

We’ll get there!!!!!

[stevant]

I completed my parking brake setup, I will have to remove portions of it when it comes time to install the drive shaft. At least all the bracket geometry is complete and the cable is run so it should go back together with all working properly. This is Gordon Levy's Pinion brake setup. The only bracket I had to make was the one that supports the cable to the right of the brake disc. Duke used the same setup. Always use SS screws with these cars!! I need this since I do not have room in my 15" wheels for the Wilwood e-brakes. Since I'm running an IRS with 15" wheels, Gordon makes a rear brake setup where you modify your spindle and mount his bracket. This way you can use a Wilwood brake setup. The e-brake then would need to be what he offers in the setup I went with or if your state allows, you can use a rear line-lock setup. Either way there is a solution.

88414884158841688417

[Papa]

Very cool setup, Steve. The FFR kit-supplied e-brake setup is an area that FFR could spend a bit more time ironing out.

Dave

[stevant]

Thanks Dave!!

From all the threads posted on the subject, you are correct!!

[miller7448]

Finished up my rear brake rotor assembly last night. Much tighter space to run your safety wires with these. My frame stand is all ready for an anticipated Saturday delivery!!!
835758357683577

PS - I did label my rotors as they are directional.

Steve, can I ask where you got the full floor mat? Although the epoxy floors are supposed to impervious to just about everything that mat looks like a good add. Thanks, Mike.

[stevant]

Steve, can I ask where you got the full floor mat? Although the epoxy floors are supposed to impervious to just about everything that mat looks like a good add. Thanks, Mike.

Hey Mike,

I picked it up at Costco. Had seen it there one Sunday and purchased it. It is great! Try their website to see if they still sell it.

[stevant]

Made a little more progress today with my harness. First of all I was able to install my battery, important step when it comes time to test what you are doing. Trying to consolodate the wiring by shortening lengths that are too long and changing the exit points of some of the wires so they work better with my layout. Thanks to Edward B for all his great posts on how he set up his harness. I'm following what he did and it is working out great. Seems to be a lot of excess wire on the rear harness. I can understand the fuel feeds as you may need to drop the tank in the future but the light feeds are long. I attached a pic, if anything does not look correct please let me know.

The wire coming through the firewall is my alternator feed. The coiled blue wire is my starter solenoid wire. My Rear harness line has been run also.
88595

Battery installed!!!
88596

This is where I Ground my panel.
88597

My BlueSea Systems Buss bar and Mega fuse for my alternator. I will be using a 100 amp fuse. Open lug on the buss bar is for the feed that will be coming into the dash from my Master battery switch. I will be shortening both the ignition and headlight harness.
88598

Here is my rear harness running down the tranny tunnel. There is a lot of wire left in the rear but it's where it should be. The license plate lights I assume run into the deck lid, I guess they feed back and up the hinge into the deck lid?
8860088601

Brake light wires and clutch wires all hooked up!
88602

Fuse panel installed.
88603

I'll be installing the drivers side floor panel along with the inside drivers foot bay panels. Once I do this I will work on getting my battery hooked up. Positive feed to the bottom lug of the Master switch, then the top lug will feed the buss bar behind the dash panel and also come back down to attach to the starter. Should have that ready in the next few days depending on my time. Negative feed will run down to the frame right by the battery itself.

Until then we keep plugging away!!!

[shark92651]

Looking good. I'm about to start this process next, now that my brakes are complete. Do you have part #s for you bus bar and mega fuse So I can take a look?

[stevant]

Hey Shark.....didn't forget you I've been busy with work, sorry. Here is the info for the part numbers you requested. You can see them all in the pic

88862.

[stevant]

More progress to report. I was finally able to make the trip up tp Forte's Parts Connection on Friday. My wife and I took a nice ride up to Mass from Long Island. It was a pleasure meeting Mike. Great guy just FULL of knowledge. I am real happy with the engine and how it looks. Not over the top flash, like I wanted, and all the go I can ask for. It's a 351 Dart block bored to a 427. Dyno'd at 514 hp and more importantly 534 ft lbs tq. Going to provide a great ride for sure!!!

I also had the opportunity to meet Duke along with his beautiful daughter and of course his amazing Mk IV. What a car, pictures are one thing but in person it's even better. Great sound too. My wife and I thank you again Duke for allowing us to see your car.

Engine in the pickup as we get ready to jump on the ferry!!

88871

Here she is on her stand awaiting her install........

8887288873

I was able to move my shell to my buddy's house where he has a lift. I can now work with a full garage bay.

8887488875

Starting to finish up my main power feed into the dash panel. Awaiting some connectors to complete.

8887688877

Will be ordering my Avon tires on Monday. I will finally get her on the ground. I'll fill and bleed my brakes first to make sure they are all good. Once on the ground I'll continue to work on my panels, Dynamat and my harness. Engine I assume won't be too far after all that!!! :cool:

[shark92651]

Hey Shark.....didn't forget you I've been busy with work, sorry. Here is the info for the part numbers you requested. You can see them all in the pic

88862.

Thanks. Your build and engine look great!

[stevant]

My rear tires came today so I went ahead and had them mounted. Front should be here in a day or so. I also went ahead and installed my Tire sticker rubber letters with glue of course. These look great on my 15" setup. Really like the look of the Avon radial, it's tread pattern and the overall look of the tire. Vintage look and feel to the car........exactly how I want it!!! Placed them on the car to take in the look. Going to bleed the brakes and once front tires are complete, drop her on the ground. Have some wiring to finish in the engine bay then we are off to focusing on the dash panel!!

89081890828908389084

[Higgybulin]

Love that look!! How did you find the stickers going on, fairly simple to do? Do they go right over the raised texture of the black lettering on the tires?
HIggy

[stevant]

Hey Higgy,

I was a little nervous, more intimidated by this as I was so concerned about ruining my new Avon tires but it was actually straight forward. Following the directions is key. The kit I purchased used a transfer decal so the letters were already pre-spaced and laid out for a 15" tire. You specify that when you order. You then prep the the tire by lightly sanding with a Dremel any markings that the letters will go over if you choose, once again not very difficult. Slow and steady and don't dig into the rubber. You then prep the tire with Acetone, a lot of prep, along with a light prep on the decal. You lay it out the way you want and then tape it in place to hold it. I glued two letters at a time by pulling back to reveal the back side of the letters. Apply the glue and most importantly use an acid brush or similar to brush the glue over the entire surface of the back of the letter. You will need a lot of brushes as the glue dries quick and the brush is only good once. Don't need a lot, just a nice even coat....no puddling! Once done, fold letters back over onto the tire and press and hold. The letters stink instantly and good if prepped properly. Hold for a bit and move to the next set once secured. No glue seeping out and all edges stuck good if glue is spread evenly and not to thick.

I love this look myself!!

[stevant]

More progress to report. My engine is a 351 block bored to a 427 so I was able to get the correct valve covers from Mike Forte and install them. Thanks Mike!!!

8911989120

I was also able to finish my main power runs from my battery to my switch, and my starter feed is ready to hook up once the engine is in.

891218912289123

Still waiting for my front tires. Going to work on my dash panel and heated seats...........

[dncharo]

Hi Steve,
First of all, your build is looking amazing! I've been following closely and am jealous at how quickly you are working! We have a similar set up with a 427 EFI (and front mounted battery) and are starting to tackle the harness/wiring/dash as well (somewhat intimidating for us). I see that you have 3 holes in your firewall. Can you tell me what each of them are for? We haven't drilled our firewall yet and I can't figure out what needs to go through there other than the front harness...
Many thanks,
David

[cv2065]

Looks great Steve. How did you mount your CNC Resevoirs? I see 3 nuts at the top...are those rivnuts? Also, the pyramid piece that you have rivnutted behind it as access to the DS footbox. I'm guessing that's in the box of aluminum that I haven't gotten to just yet?

[stevant]

Hi Steve,
First of all, your build is looking amazing! I've been following closely and am jealous at how quickly you are working! We have a similar set up with a 427 EFI (and front mounted battery) and are starting to tackle the harness/wiring/dash as well (somewhat intimidating for us). I see that you have 3 holes in your firewall. Can you tell me what each of them are for? We haven't drilled our firewall yet and I can't figure out what needs to go through there other than the front harness...
Many thanks,
David

Hey Dave,

The three holes I drilled are for the Alternator, the sensors and one for the EFI setup. I’m sure I could have gotten away with two but they will all be pretty much hidden behind/beneath the air cleaner. I can make neat runs along the top of the manifold to each area.

Thanks for the compliment!!

Steve

[stevant]

Looks great Steve. How did you mount your CNC Resevoirs? I see 3 nuts at the top...are those rivnuts? Also, the pyramid piece that you have rivnutted behind it as access to the DS footbox. I'm guessing that's in the box of aluminum that I haven't gotten to just yet?

Hey CV,

Those are rivnuts that I used for the Triple CNC, screwed up through the bottom of the rail. The triangle access panel is for after the foot box is closed up, when you need access to the foot box area. The master cylinders are in there and the balance bar so access is important for adjustment. If you are doing manual brakes.

Enjoy your build!!!

[stevant]

After speaking with Papa and going over the heated seat install process it was actually very straight forward. A little bit of work, spray glue and wire configuring and all went smooth. Its actually a good thing I did this as the leather on the seats was not glued very well to begin with so I was able to get it back together better than before. Here are a few pics, nothing earth shattering but they will be ready for install in the future.

8922289223

[Papa]

After speaking with Papa and going over the heated seat install process it was actually very straight forward. A little bit of work, spray glue and wire configuring and all went smooth. Its actually a good thing I did this as the leather on the seats was not glued very well to begin with so I was able to get it back together better than before. Here are a few pics, nothing earth shattering but they will be ready for install in the future.

8922289223

Happy to help any way I can. Seats look ready to go.

Dave

[stevant]

89231

Ok, it could be me and maybe I’m too anal. The hole for the rear deck lid latch is pretty much dead center but if you notice the license plate bump out, it’s not. It’s off to one side. Anyone look at theirs? Do I just move on? I’m assuming they are all that way as they are from the same form/mold?

Can’t see why this is not perfect, or close to it. Maybe once all mounted you won’t even notice it.

[Papa]

89231

Ok, it could be me and maybe I’m too anal. The hole for the rear deck lid latch is pretty much dead center but if you notice the license plate bump out, it’s not. It’s off to one side. Anyone look at theirs? Do I just move on? I’m assuming they are all that way as they are from the same form/mold?

Can’t see why this is not perfect, or close to it. Maybe once all mounted you won’t even notice it.

Steve,

Mine didn't have any holes for the latch. I marked and drilled my own.

Dave

[stevant]

Here is a better pic, it’s off but nothing the body guy can’t fix. Just figured the latch hole would come centered, no biggie.

89233

[edwardb]

Ok, it could be me and maybe I’m too anal. The hole for the rear deck lid latch is pretty much dead center but if you notice the license plate bump out, it’s not. It’s off to one side. Anyone look at theirs? Do I just move on? I’m assuming they are all that way as they are from the same form/mold?

Can’t see why this is not perfect, or close to it. Maybe once all mounted you won’t even notice it.


Here is a better pic, it’s off but nothing the body guy can’t fix. Just figured the latch hole would come centered, no biggie.

Welcome to the asymmetrical Roadster body. Part of its charm. :o Like so many things though, can't be taken in isolation. You'll want to confirm the location of the latch hole with where the catch mounts between the body and the chassis. That latch on the trunk lid can be moved pretty easily before paint. The catch in the chassis not as easily. Then the license plate holder/light needs to be mounted on the same line as the trunk latch. Important because if you do stripes, both will be in the path of the center stripe and you want them aligned. If the fixture is slightly off center on the pad, it's no big deal and isn't noticeable. Or your body guy can add a little filler on the short side.

[stevant]

Welcome to the asymmetrical Roadster body. Part of its charm. :o Like so many things though, can't be taken in isolation. You'll want to confirm the location of the latch hole with where the catch mounts between the body and the chassis. That latch on the trunk lid can be moved pretty easily before paint. The catch in the chassis not as easily. Then the license plate holder/light needs to be mounted on the same line as the trunk latch. Important because if you do stripes, both will be in the path of the center stripe and you want them aligned. If the fixture is slightly off center on the pad, it's no big deal and isn't noticeable. Or your body guy can add a little filler on the short side.

Thanks EdwardB......


Just finished bleeding my brakes. All went well. Nice firm pedal. No hydro boost yet of course. Had to tighten up a few fittings but overall the system is ready to go. Progress!!!!

[stevant]

My front tires came today and had them mounted. I was able to get my letters installed too. All four tires are now on the car and she is ready to be placed on all four wheels for the first time!!

893698937089371

[stevant]

Down on the ground........!!!!

8937389374

[Straversi]

Those tires look great. I have serious shop envy, by the way.
-Steve

[stevant]

Lol...... thanks Steve!!

[Jeff's First FFR]

Hello,
I have been following this thread closly. I haven't built a kit before. It looks like there are a lot of modifications, extra parts to buy, and fabrications to do. I thought this is a "complete kit".
I am about ready to order, but worried I may be in over my head. I have never had a problem fixing anything, but not sure about modificating and embelishing. Could someone please enlighten me? It looks like a lot of builders have a very complete shop and experience in fabricating. I can make anything from wood but not so good with metal. Or body work.
I would appreciate any encouragement anyone can give me.

[Straversi]

Hello,
I have been following this thread closly. I haven't built a kit before. It looks like there are a lot of modifications, extra parts to buy, and fabrications to do. I thought this is a "complete kit".
I am about ready to order, but worried I may be in over my head. I have never had a problem fixing anything, but not sure about modificating and embelishing. Could someone please enlighten me? It looks like a lot of builders have a very complete shop and experience in fabricating. I can make anything from wood but not so good with metal. Or body work.
I would appreciate any encouragement anyone can give me.

Hi Jeff, I sent you a private message to address your questions. Look for the "Notifications" in the top right of your forum page.

[Jeff's First FFR]

Hello,
Thank you very much ror your advice/ i think it is going to br OK. looking forward to it. Thank you again,
Jeff

[stevant]

Worked on my heated seat wiring and routing up into the dash. Tucked it tight into the corners and then ran the wires flat along the flat portion up to the switches. Proflle of the wiring are the same as the dynomat so the carpet will sit flat along that panel. Had to extend the 4 wires to the switch in order to place them in the dash where I wanted.

89422894238942489425

[stevant]

Was able to dynomat the transmission tunnel sides along with the section under the doors.

8944889449

Moving forward, engine install time coming soon.

[stevant]

I’m not the first to have to modify my parking brake mount, and I’m sure I won’t be the last either. Had to elongate the bracket hole, the hole in the frame and trim some of the aluminum panel to get the parking brake to go up and down without rubbing against the tunnel. All is good now........

89557895588955989560

I returned my 1 ton crane and purchased the 2 ton instead. If you intend to make this purchase get the 2 ton. It gives you so much more reach than the 1 ton. It’s going to work perfect for me. Just my 2 cents....

89561

Engine dropping in soon!!

[stevant]

905299053090569

Thank you Dave (Papa) for sharing your design for the High beam footswitch. Going to mount down behind the clutch pedal and cover with carpet.

Thank you again!!

[Higgybulin]

Steve, did you say what size your Avons were. I kinda skimmed but couldn't find any mention of the size.
Higgy

[stevant]

Steve, did you say what size your Avons were. I kinda skimmed but couldn't find any mention of the size.
Higgy

225/60R15 Front
275/55R15 Rear

[stevant]

I know there are parts of the build that you know once you get too, you start to get a little nervous as you hope it goes well. This kit is a sum of its parts and in some cases you build up a lot to get to a nerve racking spot......like applying leather to the dash board. So many steps completed to get there and you hope you can get through the final step without a hitch!! Well today was my day, with moral support of some members here I was able to complete the main part of my dashboard and mount my gauges and switches. I am extremely pleased how it came out. I'm now going to be working on the glove box itself as I still need to wrap in leather along with installing the grab bar.

Here are some pics:

906769067790678906799068090681906829068390684

[Straversi]

Hands and fingers tired from all that cutting and razor work? Looks great.
-Steve

[BadAsp427]

I started painting my F panels last night, like Papa, I’m using Rustoleum Bed liner paint. I really like the finish. The one thing in addition is I’ll be going over it with Eastwood matte expoxy clear. It is very durable and will give much better protection from scratches. It really enhances the durability. I’ll also be using black rivets.

Hello, Now that you have had your roadster build going for a bit, are you happy with the Rustoleum Bed Liner on the aluminum? I'll be starting my build in late September and am trying to get a good idea of what I want to do with the Aluminum panels. Any problem with flaking off or chipping ? Thanks a bunch, I've been reading alot, cant wait to get started. Thanks for doing all of the build reports. I will be doing the same for the next generations...

[Papa]

The dash looks fantastic! Great job.

[stevant]

Thanks all for the kind words Steve and Dave........ was able to complete the interior of the glove box, going to finish the door later on today. Those pics to follow!!

90803

Door covered in foam...... ready to cover.

9080490805

[stevant]

Hello, Now that you have had your roadster build going for a bit, are you happy with the Rustoleum Bed Liner on the aluminum? I'll be starting my build in late September and am trying to get a good idea of what I want to do with the Aluminum panels. Any problem with flaking off or chipping ? Thanks a bunch, I've been reading alot, cant wait to get started. Thanks for doing all of the build reports. I will be doing the same for the next generations...

I actually ended up powder coating all my panels instead as it is more durable than the paint. I opted for the mini-Tex finish which closely resembles the bed liner paint. Obviously more costly but your budget will dictate your direction. I’m very happy with the results. Papa used the bed liner paint with great results but I know he did mention he wished he powder coated as you need to be careful as the powder coating adheres better than the paint.

[Higgybulin]

Dash looks FAB!!!!
Higgy

[stevant]

Well I was able to complete my glovebox door. Going to make a polished aluminum engraved panel for the inside. I’m real happy how the fit and finish came out. To me the most nerve racking part of the build as you see it every time you get in the car so you want it as perfect as you can get it.

90833908349083590836

[stevant]

Sunday is my engine install day...... deep breathes! Looking forward to seeing the engine in the car. Completing a few things to get prepped. I went ahead and ran my SS hydraulic clutch line figuring it will be easier to makes holes now than later. Plenty of length to make it to the slave cylinder.

909289092990930

Engine install pics soon.....:cool:

[Yama-Bro]

Stevant,

The whole thing is looking great. I really like your tires and glove box. Good work!

[stevant]

Stevant,

The whole thing is looking great. I really like your tires and glove box. Good work!

Thanks Yama.....

[miller7448]

Steve, received my kit 2 months ago. License plate bump and deck latch holes are both centered. (they line up)

[stevant]

Steve, received my kit 2 months ago. License plate bump and deck latch holes are both centered. (they line up)

When it’s time to complete the body It’s always an option to move the latch hole if necessary. Shouldn’t have to do that but it is what it is. At least there’s an option. Thanks for checking!!!

[stevant]

Ok so I decided to do a continuity check on my ignition wire. This blue wire runs from the ignition, to the clutch switch, then down to the solenoid on the starter. I hooked the wires on the clutch switch as noted in the Ron Francis harness manual. It shows to hook the clutch wires onto the rear spades and the brake wires onto the front spades. The problem is that the continuity light was on when the clutch pedal was not pressed and it turned off when the clutch pedal is pushed in. That’s reversed. The circuit should be complete when the clutch is pushed in so the starter will operate. Simple fix was to just place the wires on the front spades and now it’s working perfectly. So now the brake switch and clutch switch both use the front spades on their switch. Curious if anyone has experienced anything different.

91035910369103791038

The photo shows the wires on the rear spades which is incorrect. They are now on the front spades (the pair closer to the front of the car).

Connected to front spades

91039

[stevant]

Sunday will be here soon.......getting prepped to drop in the engine!

911059110691107

[Boydster]

Ok so I decided to do a continuity check on my ignition wire. This blue wire runs from the ignition, to the clutch switch, then down to the solenoid on the starter. I hooked the wires on the clutch switch as noted in the Ron Francis harness manual. It shows to hook the clutch wires onto the rear spades and the brake wires onto the front spades. The problem is that the continuity light was on when the clutch pedal was not pressed and it turned off when the clutch pedal is pushed in. That’s reversed. The circuit should be complete when the clutch is pushed in so the starter will operate. Simple fix was to just place the wires on the front spades and now it’s working perfectly. So now the brake switch and clutch switch both use the front spades on their switch. Curious if anyone has experienced anything different.

91035910369103791038

The photo shows the wires on the rear spades which is incorrect. They are now on the front spades (the pair closer to the front of the car).

Connected to front spades

91039

I experienced the exact same thing about a year ago when I started my wiring. As you did, simply swapping the wires over to the other set of terminals fixed it. I *think* I had to swap both the clutch and brake switch... the brake lights were full on until pushing the brake pedal.

[stevant]

I experienced the exact same thing about a year ago when I started my wiring. As you did, simply swapping the wires over to the other set of terminals fixed it. I *think* I had to swap both the clutch and brake switch... the brake lights were full on until pushing the brake pedal.

So I was not the only one.......:)

[stevant]

Well today was a very productive day. Its amazing what a few bagels will do to your friends when you ask them for help. I had plenty of both!! We were able to install the engine and tranny today along with the driveshaft and the completion of Gordon Levy's pinion brake. Not too many curse words in fact none and I'm sticking with that!! With the Dart block I did have to notch the mounts. I'm hoping for future builders that they offer mounts that work right out of the box but none the less all worked out fine. One thing I did encounter that we could not slip the drive shaft in place once the tranny was all mounted. We had to remove the A frame and lower the tranny an inch or so to get the driveshaft in. Once we did that all went back nicely and it all lined up great!!

Here are a bunch of pics of the install:

Night prior, all is quiet getting ready for the big day!!

912049120591206

Today, the guys know the bagels are waiting!!

912079120891209912109121191212

No pics of me as I was operating the hoist....no one wanted the responsibility........go figure!!

[Papa]

Congratulations on the big milestone!

Dave

[stevant]

Here are a few more after I dressed her up a little to see how pretty she looks!!

912159121691217912189121991221

Have to start running my engine wires but I have an idea where I'm going with them.

912229122591226

All my power steering lines will be on the same side as my Hydroboost so the lines will be consolidated and neatly run along one side.

91223

[stevant]

Congratulations on the big milestone!

Dave


Thanks Dave!!!

[Higgybulin]

Looks Great!!
Higgy

[cv2065]

Nice work and congrats. Gets real after the engine goes in! Looks like u had more than enough hands to help out!

[stevant]

I did, good friends and family. What more can you ask for. I was able to get some wiring done tonight. Hooked up my coolant sensor, oil temp sensor and oil pressure send.

913089130991310

[shark92651]

I know there are parts of the build that you know once you get too, you start to get a little nervous as you hope it goes well. This kit is a sum of its parts and in some cases you build up a lot to get to a nerve racking spot......like applying leather to the dash board. So many steps completed to get there and you hope you can get through the final step without a hitch!! Well today was my day, with moral support of some members here I was able to complete the main part of my dashboard and mount my gauges and switches. I am extremely pleased how it came out. I'm now going to be working on the glove box itself as I still need to wrap in leather along with installing the grab bar.

Here are some pics:

906769067790678906799068090681906829068390684

Looks great! I just cut the last holes in my dash this morning, just need to cut out the glove box opening and then I will be ready to cover mine as well.

Congrats on getting the powertrain installed - that's a huge milestone!

[stevant]

Thanks Shark....... working towards the first start!! Tonight I fitted the fuel lines along with the lower radiator hose.

913519135291353913549135591356

Also my SS headers came in......tomorrow they go in!

91406

[stevant]

Well looks like I'm hitting a brick wall with my headlight switch. I was holding off pushing the handle into the switch until necessary so I did it tonight to test my lights. Lights go on but they do not dim. They dim using the knob in the back on the harness. I then wanted to remove the knob off the switch so I can now pull it out the back of the dash and the set screw comes out but the knob will not budge. The car is not running nor is everything hooked up but I figured I would see what the dash looks like and I assume it should still dim from the headlight switch. Am I missing something? When I turn the switch all the way to the right it shuts off completely which I assume interior lights would come on once hooked up, but it does nothing when I turn it back left or right............any ideas? Bad switch??

[Straversi]

Rotating the knob only turns the courtesy lights on and off. No dimmer function. The gauges have their own dimmer knob that is usually mounted under the dash. To release the knob and shaft, look or feel for a very small button on the bottom of the head light switch. Push that and you can pull the knob and shaft out of the switch.

-Steve

[stevant]

Hey Steve.....so I'm going crazy for no reason!!! LOL.....Thanks for the info. The book should say that. In fact the book says to disregard the knob in the back and use the headlight switch dimmer but not important now. I will mount the rear knob under the dash instead.

Thanks again,

Steve

[edwardb]

Well looks like I'm hitting a brick wall with my headlight switch. I was holding off pushing the handle into the switch until necessary so I did it tonight to test my lights. Lights go on but they do not dim. They dim using the knob in the back on the harness. I then wanted to remove the knob off the switch so I can now pull it out the back of the dash and the set screw comes out but the knob will not budge. The car is not running nor is everything hooked up but I figured I would see what the dash looks like and I assume it should still dim from the headlight switch. Am I missing something? When I turn the switch all the way to the right it shuts off completely which I assume interior lights would come on once hooked up, but it does nothing when I turn it back left or right............any ideas? Bad switch??

You've received several responses here and in the other thread. But here's a couple more. These builds are a combination of various parts, with different interactions depending on parts chosen. The very traditional GM/Delco style headlight switch has the usual dimmer built into the knob. However, if you use the Speedhut gauges (probably the most common, but don't know for sure) they're all solid state and don't dim off the headlight switch dimmer. The Speedhuts have two light circuits: The needles are LED and don't dim. They're either on or off. The backlighting is electroluminescent and requires the AC inverter and a separate dimmer knob. So with this combination of parts, the recommendation is to leave the headlight dimmer full on, e.g. just before the stop where it turns on the courtesy lights. Works fine once you understand what's happening and get used to it. As far as the headlight switch itself, the knob and shaft "click" into place when you insert it. To remove, pull the knob all the way out to the second stop (headlights), then press the spring loaded button on the bottom. It should then release and come the rest of the way out. The knob can be removed from the shaft, but in my experience takes a little persuasion even once the set screw is loosened. It's either pressed in, has Loctite, or something. I put the shaft in a bench vise and tap off the knob with a block of wood. Once off the first time, not bad after that. Usually don't need to remove the knob. But depending on your dash thickness, the knob might not be all the way in even when it's off. So it's necessary to shorten the shaft at the knob end if that sort of thing bothers you.

[Straversi]

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I love your engine bay. Never seen the remote oil filter mounted like that. Super clean.

I noticed the location of the bolts holding your driver's side foot box access cover. Similar to mine. You might find it difficult to get to a couple of those once the body is on. No big deal but make a note now and when you mount the body, check to see if you can get to them. You might need to dremmel a little of the lip of the body to get to them. I have to do that to mine, unfortunately I didn't realize it until after the body was painted. Would have been stress free to do it before.

-Steve

[stevant]

Funny you pointed that out. If you loook close enough one of the bolts is not in as I had seen a FFR mk4 a few weeks back and I noticed that it will be difficult to access those bolts. I appreciate you pointing out so I don’t forget to make modifications now that I can.

Forte did the oil filter like that. I really like how clean it looks and easy it will be to change the oil. Leaves a lot of room up on the X frame too.

[stevant]

Ok, so I made more progress with my dash board. I was able to run my wires down to the high beam foot switch, when I click it, the high beam indicator lights on the dash, so looks like that’s going to be ok. I was also able to hook the wires up to the Russ Thompson turn signal. I’m having the button on the stork operate the horn....and yes it works!!!!! I tried my turn signals but the ignition was off so the dedicated dash indicators didn’t go on. I don’t have any lights on the corners of the car yet. After speaking to Edward B and getting schooled on SPST and DPST switches, my Lucas switch is going to need a diode to stop any backfeeding. What I did was take the pink hazard wire and run it to one side of my Lucas switch and then took the left hazard wire and connected it to the other side. When I clicked the Lucas switch, the dash arrow indicator came on, and it also worked for the right. Should it have blinked at this point? It did not blink for either side.

Some pics of my wires.

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[edwardb]

If you have the standard thermal flashers in the RF fuse panels (the ones it comes with) you won't get flashing on the turn signals or hazards without actual lights connected. Those flashers need the current draw to function. If you're planning to use LED bulbs, then you'll want to switch to solid state flashers. Those will work without any lights attached and also with the low current draw LED's.

For your hazards, you need the pink +12V supply attached to one side of the switch, and both left and right wires attached to the other side. The diodes prevent this connection from affecting the turn signals.

[stevant]

Thanks Paul..... yes I am going to connect both to the switch with a diode on each. Just wanted to see if it would work with just one with no diode. It did light though so the circuitry seems to be flowing but just not with all the components to make it correct at the moment. As for it not flashing, now I know why it’s not.

Onward we go!!!!!!

[stevant]

So more progress this weekend. I was able to get several things done. Completed my dash since my diodes came in for my flashers.

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I decided to put a ground bar behind the dash for ease of wiring my ground wires.

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I was able to complete my upper and lower rubber/steel hoses for my radiator. Boig Motorsports ceramic coated, they look great!!

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I also mounted my headers or at least started. Waiting for the gaskets to come in then I'll finish them up.

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Last but not least, mounted my dash panel and temporarily hooked up my lights to make sure all works......and it does!!!! Am I happy with that!!!

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I still need to complete my wiper motor hook up once my weatherpac connectors come in.

All in all a lot of good progress made moving closer to my first start. One question I have is that when I put the ignition in the on position, all the gauges move a little but only the volt gauge and fuel gauge do a full sweep. Should they all be sweeping? Al gauges light up just fine. Just curious if they should all sweep.

Thanks,

Steve

[stevant]

More progress made. I’m getting ready to start the car for the first time. I have completed all the wiring, all is working as it should. I used my Lucas switches for both the wipers and the hazards. Even though the Lucas switch is a SPST, the use of diodes like others have used allowed it to work just fine. Headers are installed along with my overflow for my coolant. I’m attaching a bunch of pics showing the little things I’ve also completed. Will be putting on the side pipes next week so once done it will be time to run the checklist for the first start!

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[stevant]

When it comes time to start my engine, oil pressure is key. Do I have to actually start the motor to see gauge pressure? I don’t want to run it with out any. I’m sure it will be fine as the engine was run prior to install but I don’t want to run an engine with no pressure.

Just looking for a procedure to follow for my first start.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

[Papa]

When it comes time to start my engine, oil pressure is key. Do I have to actually start the motor to see gauge pressure? I don’t want to run it with out any. I’m sure it will be fine as the engine was run prior to install but I don’t want to run an engine with no pressure.

Just looking for a procedure to follow for my first start.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve,

You can crank the engine to prime the oil system. Just don't provide any fuel or spark. I pulled the connection from the fuel pump and pulled all the plug wires off the plugs. You won't see full pressure when cranking, but the gauge will read 10-20 psi.

Dave

[stevant]

Thanks Dave.......how long should I run those cranks with no fuel or spark?

[shark92651]

So more progress this weekend. I was able to get several things done. Completed my dash since my diodes came in for my flashers.

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I see you ran into the same problem I had with the glovebox and had to trim a bit of the flange on the RHS in order to get the dash into place. I actually relocated that hole a bit to the side.

[stevant]

Yes, but plenty of metal to secure. I have a total of ten fasteners plus the grab bar across the bottom secured the bottom flange in addition. All is good!!!

[JMan]

Thanks Dave.......how long should I run those cranks with no fuel or spark?

I crank mine over until I see pressure on the gauge... only takes about 10-15 seconds.

[stevant]

Long time no post for me but that's ok as I've been building so all is good. Saturday is the day for the first start, weather permitting of course. I will be shooting a video if we move ahead that day. I have my temporary FFR steel pipes installed for now. My Gsas N Performance pipes will go on after the body install. Here are some pics of my progress. I've taken a lot more photos but didn't want to bore you with everything.

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[stevant]

I mounted my lights temporarily on fabricated brackets for the go-kart phase. Just had to have lights............

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[stevant]

It’s been a long time since my last post and have a lot to share as a lot of progress has been done. In fact she’s going to paint! Just want to attach some pictures of the spacing on the rear wheel wells. The body is fitting nicely on the chassis with most holes lining up. It seems though the body needs to shift towards the drivers side by about 3/8”. Not a lot but it will equal out the tire spacing. My alignment has been done. Has anyone had a similar issue with their body using the IRS? I’m also running 275/15’s in the back.

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I’ll be updating the thread soon.......

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[BadAsp427]

Looks awesome... I just can not get over how clean your garage always is... Can't wait to see the paint completed...

[stevant]

So, it's been a long time since I documented my build and for those who have been following I apologize for my absence. All has been great and I intend to fill in the blanks now that my car is completed. I have plenty of pics of all the progress that has taken place since January. Here are the pics of the final Mk IV. I'm very happy with the outcome as the dream has become a reality. The overall theme is exactly what I was going for. Thank all again who have supported me through the build process and have given me the inspiration to make this project the best I could do.......Sincerely, Steve

Happy Labor Day to all!!

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[stevant]

A few more........

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Guardsman Blue with Wimbledon White stripes by the way.......

[mburger]

Beautiful! Just curious, how did you decide on number 58?
Love the meatballs and billboards.

[stevant]

Thank you......... the car will be passed to my sons. I wanted the car number to hopefully have meaning to them. Five was my Dads favorite number and mine is Eight. It makes it special to me as he would have loved to help build it, I’m sure it will make it that much more special one day. I hope it does...

[mburger]

That's great. I'm sure it will.

[Straversi]

Fantastic build. I love the colors, the billboard tire lettering and the meatballs. The racing theme is classic and your attention to detail is great. Well done.
-Steve

[stevant]

Fantastic build. I love the colors, the billboard tire lettering and the meatballs. The racing theme is classic and your attention to detail is great. Well done.
-Steve

Thank you Steve, I appreciate the compliment and kind words.

[GTBradley]

Inspirational! And a spoiler I hope. Mine is in paint right now and I’m going for the same look, minus the meatball. I just so hope mine turns out as good as yours. Nice work and enjoy all those proud miles in your future.

[stevant]

Thank you..... and yours will be beautiful also. I’ll be following your build, color combo hits a soft spot!! Lol....

Are you going with 15” wheels also?......if so what tires will you be running?

Keep up the great work!!

[GTBradley]

To tell the truth, I didn’t know 15” wheels could be done with IRS. I did the 17” with Wilwood brakes through FFR, but I really prefer the look of those billboards. It looks like you just used different brakes to get down to 15” wheels?

[stevant]

I have the IRS. Gordon Levy makes a bracket/kit that will allow you to modify the rear knuckle assembly so you can fit the Wilwoods inside the 15” wheel. The parking brake will not fit but I placed mine on the driveshaft. Gordon also sells that setup.

Look into it if interested in running 15”