Update: Cool Switch > Could Be Used As An Anti-Theft Device

[GoDadGo]

Hey Gang,

I saw this switch on Amazon and liked it so much that I bought it.
It will replace my momentary (Push Button) switch that I installed in the Clutch Safty Circut.
The unit is a keyed barrel switch that allows you to lock it in the On or Off position.
The cool thing is that the key Does Not stay in the switch in either position.
Also, the AC to DC amperage conversion puts the capacity in a "Way Over Kill" load scenario.

Steve

SHOWN BELOW IS THE AMAZON LINK:

https://www.amazon.com/Philmore-Switch-Lock-Removable-30-10078/dp/B00B7N8FOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519602081&sr=8-1&keywords=Philmore+5%2F8%22+On%2FOff+Key+Switch

[SerpantFL]

Steve, Sometimes the simplest things... This could be used in conjunction with all the above, just hidden so that it's an extra security device that would slow a thief or otherwise tampering with the ignition switch.

[Fixit]

Back in the day when I was doing "Pro Car Audio" for competition events, I'd sometimes do a little custom mod to the customer's cigarette lighter - if they had a plastic dash with the housing of the lighter having a separate ground lead...
I'd solder a wire from the center post of the heating element to the side/case of the lighter, and run the amplifier "turn on" trigger wire through the now dummied-out lighter. The only way the sound system would fire up is if the lighter was pushed in. Great for valet parking, or letting someone else use the car and not have them blow up a nice system. Just take the lighter with you!
(I could see this on your starter solenoid/clutch/neutral safety switch circuit)

[Papa]

Steve,

I had one of those on my 1978 Z28 to arm and disarm the alarm system. It was mounted in the fender near the edge that meets the door. That was in 1982. :)

Dave

[SerpantFL]

Dave, Thanks for the memory. Had one on the fender in the '70s. Oops, showing my age...

[GoDadGo]

UPDATE:
This switch works great & the key is removed in both the "On" and "Off" positions.

[Avalanche325]

You will need to have that switch mounted so you cannot get to the back of it. It would take all of 2 seconds to defeat it if you get to the back.

[GoDadGo]

You will need to have that switch mounted so you cannot get to the back of it. It would take all of 2 seconds to defeat it if you get to the back.

An Excellent Point You Make About Switch Placement!

You've got to pull my dash or yank the body to get to mine; however, we all know that persistent criminals tend to be successful and the best use flatbeds and hide in plane sight.

[Derald Rice]

Looks similar to the barrel keys that are used on vending machines.

I have seen videos where a disassembled ball point pen body is hammered into the key way and the plastic forms around the flutes enough that a new "disposable single use key" is formed.

I would not trust it if that was the only means of security. But the instances where one of our cars is stolen seems to be very low

[Bob Cowan]

I switch /lock like this is easily defeated. BUT... a thief would have to know where it is, what it is for, and how it's wired. Something like this under the dash or in the glovebox would keep almost anyone from starting the car.

[FF33rod]

Cool find.
Curious, what do you mean by "the AC to DC amperage conversion..."?

[GoDadGo]

Derald,
I too doubt that many of these cars get stolen because of their typical use.
The good news is a couple of redundancies can slow most thefts and we all know that it isn't easy to defeat a tow truck which is seldom questioned when snatching a car.
Also, in my younger days I stole cars for a living (Yes, I was a friendly Repo Man for more than a few years.) and a wheel lift tow truck was my favorite tool of choice.

Bob,
We all know that locks are meant to keep honest people honest.
When I finally bring this thing to the office I'll be taking my steering wheel, flipping this switch and killing the battery.
The good news is I park in a low ceiling garage (6'8" clearance) so you can't get a tow truck in there to save your life.

FF33,
125 volt AC at 4 amps converts to roughly 45-45 amps for 12 volt DC.
I just thought it was a better idea than my extra horn button switch so I figured why not use this instead and maybe gain a little extra security.
It even fit in the same hole as the button/switch I replaced.

[JohnK]

No to derail this thread from the original topic but since we're talking about theft prevention I wanted to get everyone's thoughts. I'm thinking of installing an E-Stopp electric parking brake and hiding the switch somewhere, or hooking it up to the battery disconnect. This would have the effect of locking the rear wheels without any way of disengaging the e-brake if power is off. This seems like it would be a pretty good theft preventative measure against tow truck-type theft. It's not completely foolproof, as they could jack it up and slip some wheel dollies under the rear wheels, but it seems like it would possibly be enough to annoy a thief enough that they'd move on to easier prey. Thoughts?

[GoDadGo]

JohnK,

Anything you do to slow or deter a thief will help but chances are low that you'll put your car in an unsafe place.

In my case I've got a detachable steering wheel, a hidden keyed battery switch, and a hidden keyed starter safety switch.
If push comes to shove and I'm really worried then my HEI distributor power can be disconnected without any tools.
Heck, you can even buy a wheel boot which would send a big old flag to any Wood-Bee Perps.

NOTE: .. Hidden = Not In Plain Sight

Steve

[weendoggy]

What's wrong with a battery master key switch? Put it in a good place and take the key with you if you're worried. You can't get to the back of mine without a lot of work (but I have a shortcut too). However, if someone WANTS your car, they'll get it whether tow truck or just towing or dragging. They all have their ways.

[FF33rod]

125 volt AC at 4 amps converts to roughly 45-45 amps for 12 volt DC

Ok, I understand how you did this (equivalent power, voltage x current = power) but that is not at all applicable when it comes to the application of a switch. There are at least 2 things to consider when it comes to switch ratings; the current carrying ability and the ability to interrupt or stop that current.

As far as current carrying ability goes, there isn't a lot of difference between AC and DC voltage. What's important for either is the resistance of the switch internals and hence the power dissipation inside the switch. Taking a random number for the internal resistance, say 0.1 ohms, if we run 4 amps through it then the switch will dissipate 1.6 watts (Isquared x R). If you run 45 amps through the same switch it will now dissipate 202 Watts. In other words, it will melt.

As for the ability to interrupt a current, once a current is flowing and you try to stop that current by pulling 2 contacts apart, an arc (spark) forms between the contact. Pull them far enough apart and the arc will extinguish and the current will stop flowing. The lower voltage, the smaller the gap can be. Or, for higher voltages, you need more distance between the contacts in the open position of the switch. So this is why you see a different current rating for 120 volts AC vs 240. Now the other thing to consider is that with AC voltage, is it is sinusoidal crossing zero volts 120 times a second. As you can intuitively guess, this also helps extinguish an arc. So when it comes to DC voltage, which is a constant (not sinusoidal with zero crossings) it can actually be harder to extinguish an arc as you open the contacts. So quite often you will see a very different rating on switches for DC voltages versus AC voltages.

Bottom line, if you're switching heavy DC currents then get a switch that has actual DC ratings - in other words, explicitly built for the application. In low current applications, it probably doesn't matter too much - which is likely your case from what I can tell. However, I just thought I'd mention this here in the hope of being helpful in pointing out some considerations required dependent on application in our projects.

[Big Blocker]

I have to agree with FF33rod here, switches rated for X amperage AC won't necessarily work at the same amperage for DC, for all the reasons FF33rod mentioned. This does depend on how the switch is being implemented into the electrical circuit. Most switches used to switch high current are [normally] wired to a high amperage relay or contactor (usually with a low voltage coil).

In what Steve is contemplating, the switch pictured will work just fine, as the current thru the clutch safety circuit is minimal.

Doc

[GoDadGo]

In what Steve is contemplating, the switch pictured will work just fine, as the current thru the clutch safety circuit is minimal.

Doc

Yep, it works way better than the defective momentary "Horn Button" switch that it replaced.

https://youtu.be/NhRHwAbtrt0
https://youtu.be/761XdBfBW7Y

Thanks, Doc!