View Full Version : Marv’s 35 Truck
Hi all, shipping date will be May 12, build will be Blueprint Engine, AOD, 3:31 or 3:55. I will install AC for the Arizona summers. This will be my third Factory Five build. Cobra, 33 and now the truck, love these cars!
wallace18
02-24-2018, 12:04 PM
Congrats! welcome to the 35 club, LOL.
Got word from Tony yesterday the chassis will be powder coated Satin Black instead of Gloss, that’s great as it was my first choice! Can’t wait for delivery in a couple of weeks.
rponfick
04-27-2018, 10:15 AM
Marv, was satin your choice, or is that what they will be using for the trucks.
What build number are you?
Congrats, Ralph
Yes Ralph, I was originally wanting satin.
Got news Stewart is not picking up this week as scheduled, will be the middle of next week so should be a couple of weeks to get to Arizona at this point. Well the garage is clean, I can get the differential ready for installation, trans is built and engine ordered. All I can do is wait.
Stillwater35
05-15-2018, 09:54 AM
My stewart pickup was supposed to be last week and maybe this week - Chassis #4.
I'll let you know if/when I get loaded up this week.
Trying picture posting, shot of my 3:31 8.8
Attaching thumbnail photo, think I have it
WIS89
05-18-2018, 01:48 PM
Marv-
Great shot of your 33! Are you going to go with same color scheme, or perhaps go with opposite main/alternate colors?
I have been enjoying watching the first batch of truck builds, and will add your build to my list!
Good luck with the truck. If it's as good as your other builds, it will be awesome!
Regards,
Steve
Thanks, not sure on the color yet for the truck
rponfick
05-19-2018, 01:56 PM
Is Stewart still backlogged, or have you got a delivery date yet? The wait must be frustrating. I am supposedly scheduled for production 5-26, pickup 5-29 to 6-4, delivery 10 days after that to Colorado. I am sweating out of state travel beginning 6-14.
Hope you see it soon.
Ralph
Scheduled to be picked up next Wednesday, delivery in Tucson 7-10 days after that
rponfick
05-20-2018, 05:02 PM
So, about 2 weeks after you thought for pickup?
Ralph
Stillwater35
05-21-2018, 08:11 AM
I had a complete date of 4/28. They think they are going to load up today or tomorrow for production chassis #4.
It's going to be time soon for FFR to add additional shippers. This must cause them storage issues and revenue recognition issues. Not to mention major customer satisfaction issues.
KenWilkinson
05-21-2018, 08:19 AM
I had a complete date of 4/28. They think they are going to load up today or tomorrow for production chassis #4.
It's going to be time soon for FFR to add additional shippers. This must cause them storage issues and revenue recognition issues. Not to mention major customer satisfaction issues.
Mine was 5/12, told a few more days. I hope this week, we'll see... (#10 BTW)
Looking like pick up is now next week, Stewart is doing mid west run this week. So estimated delivery is around the 13-15th of June. Oh well got the engine today.
Just got a call from Jolene Stewart transport is west bound and down, delivery Monday.
Benjamin
06-08-2018, 10:12 PM
Engine looks great! Just a few more days and you'll be building. Exciting
Truck arrived around 3; missing hood and possibly radiator surround. Need to do an inventory and see what else may be back ordered.
Waiting on parts like everyone. Seems like one piece of almost all subgroups is Back ordered. Finally got the bed mounted and square. Frame is 1/2 inch wider at the front, nylon spacers are provided by FFR. Leave a 1/2 inch reveal between cab and bed. Line up lower belt molding cab to bed.
Made some progress yesterday! Got the trans cooler mounted in the rear. Made a bracket for the fuse panel and got the wiring harness installed and routed.
rponfick
07-19-2018, 10:19 AM
Marv, have you gotten any shipments of back order parts? I see some are getting them. I am still missing critical parts of each assembly area also. But, can fill in with other chores.
Ralph
Yesterday received box 16, driveshaft,shock sleeves, windshield and rear glass. Pick ticket showed rear upper arm and a few other items but they were not in the boxes, hoping Fed x has one more box for me that they missed yesterday.
Installed the spring and shocks today. Mounted fan shroud and fan. Installed the steering column, waiting for the firewall to be finished then I can install it.
rponfick
07-21-2018, 04:46 PM
Marv, nice looking fan shroud. Where did you find one for such a new product?
Hope I get a parts shipment soon like you just got.
Ralph
wallace18
07-22-2018, 06:16 AM
Marv, nice looking fan shroud. Where did you find one for such a new product?
Hope I get a parts shipment soon like you just got.
Ralph
Looks like the replicaparts one I used on my 35. I was originally made for the 33 but can be modified for the 35.
Looks like the replicaparts one I used on my 35. I was originally made for the 33 but can be modified for the 35.
Exactly, only took a little modification to work, great product.
I was having trouble figuring out where this piece went so Tony sent me this picture.
KenWilkinson
07-22-2018, 08:13 AM
OK ,what modifications exactly? I'm curious as I might put one on my PU. I want to know if I have the tools and skills. Ie, no welding etc.
No welding just cut the bottom off to match the radiator, (you can see the cut line in the first picture) then notch to clear the lower hose and pedcock. I mounted it to some 6m standoffs from Ace hardware for clearance. Then the fan attaches to the shroud with rivets or screws and nuts. Had to notch the fan housing so shroud mounting screws would clear. Easy job overall.
rponfick
07-22-2018, 01:48 PM
Marv, with much head scratching, I was able to figure out the grill support (?) bracket. Not sure what attaches to it. But, there are still a lot of other parts that I have no idea where they go. Any word on assembly manual?
Ralph
It attaches to the fiberglass grill surround. Don’t know how long on a manual, 33 manual covers a lot. Post some pics and I’ll be glad to help if I can. I’ve also had good luck e mailing tony@factoryfive.com to ask questions.
Mighty quiet out there in 35 country. Everyone must be waiting for more parts.
wallace18
08-02-2018, 09:27 AM
Mighty quiet out there in 35 country. Everyone must be waiting for more parts.
My 347 should be here today. Really hoping the manual and POL parts are soon behind it.
Yep me too. Waiting on parts s**ks. Put my Blueprint engine and the trans in today. Making some progress need to buy a couple of parts “add to cart”. Need to wrap the exhaust. Brakes are complete, had some stainless hoses for rear built at Techna Fit very reasonable.
9066090661Ran the trans cooler lines today, had to reorder dipstick as I missed the description that said 36 inches. Driveshaft is in and according to Jay at FFR Electra steer and a few other pieces are on the way.
More progress, hope to have it running by Friday. Ran wiring, wrapped exhaust, made heat shields, fitted trans tunnel. Electric steering is in.
It’s alive! But I need to find out how to download video. Great sound really like the mufflers supplied by FFR.
https://youtu.be/DZiLCrruKOQ
CVOBill
08-24-2018, 03:27 PM
Congrats Marv!
Ready to go kart but no steering couplers, etc. etc
wallace18
08-27-2018, 06:30 AM
Way to go, Marv! Sounds great!
rponfick
08-30-2018, 03:53 PM
Marv, like your shifter. Who's model is it, and do you like it? I'll be running an AOD also, and am looking for recommendations.
Thanks, Ralph
Stillwater35
08-30-2018, 04:42 PM
Mine is a lokar LOK-ATS64R70WBM
Check out my build thread. Marv's looks similar to mine.
Yes It’s a Lokar LOK-ATS6AODBN 16 inch.
92326Wheels and tires on just waiting for more parts.
herb fraser
08-31-2018, 02:53 PM
Lots of hurry up and wait ! Looking good !
Stillwater35
08-31-2018, 03:04 PM
Nice wheels! Looking good Marv
wallace18
08-31-2018, 03:51 PM
That is one shiny firewall. :cool:
That is one shiny firewall. :cool:
Actually it’s a twin engine design 35. LOL
wallace18
09-01-2018, 06:18 PM
Looking Good!
Mr Moffatt
09-04-2018, 09:49 AM
92326Wheels and tires on just waiting for more parts.
Hi Marv, what wheel specs are those and did you go for a 2005-14 rear axle?
Thanks John
Rear axle is out of a 2009 GT. Wheels are US Mags U111 18/8
Mr Moffatt
09-05-2018, 06:47 AM
Rear axle is out of a 2009 GT. Wheels are US Mags U111 18/8
Super thanks, do you remember the offset (ET)
Stillwater35
09-05-2018, 07:35 AM
Super thanks, do you remember the offset (ET)
The ET is zero
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27180-Stillwater-s-35-Build&p=332188&viewfull=1#post332188
Check out my post. And check out US Mags' website for sizing.
http://us-mags.com/rambler-u111-w-6133.htm
BluePrintEngines
09-05-2018, 02:56 PM
Following! Love the startup video!
Johnny
Following! Love the startup video!
Johnny
Thanks great engine!
Fitting the doors today, forgot how much fun this is, LOL
92731FYI if you received these striker plates in your kit they are wrong.
Video of truck.
https://youtu.be/gqhHoUQlCJ0
KenWilkinson
09-07-2018, 12:02 PM
92731FYI if you received these striker plates in your kit they are wrong.
I believe I have the same parts. What is wrong with them? Do you have a date to get replacements?
I believe I have the same parts. What is wrong with them? Do you have a date to get replacements?
Ken I E mailed Tony with the picture and he sent me the correct ones that day. Wish I could get the steering joints that easy.
Dash cut and mounted with gauge cluster. Need to run a/c ducts, defroster and figure out where I want the controls, ignition switch and H/L switch.
KenWilkinson
09-08-2018, 03:52 PM
Hmm, Does it help much to have the truck upside down?
Hmm, Does it help much to have the truck upside down?
Pictures upside down?
Working on doors, hood running boards and fenders, need the running board brackets.
Don’t know why they load upside down, I’m not in Australia LOL
Stillwater35
09-20-2018, 07:51 AM
Hey, can you send me a picture of the hinges on the inside of the body? I'm struggling with mine. I really appreciate it.
I also found I had to trim the area shown on page 328-9 in the manual to the forward edge of the stepped area. You will be able to tell if you need to trim more by looking at how the hinge is laying against the body bracket it should be flat. Also on page 320 watch how much you trim as one of my lower hinge areas was not flat (90 degree) to the outer door skin and the female part of the hinge got to deep and I had to shim and fill the area some. Hope this makes since. Don’t forget the threaded holes take a 3/8 inch bolt.
Stillwater35
09-20-2018, 09:27 AM
Perfect. Thank you. I'll take a look tonight and I have some time over the next weekend to make progress. Thank you again
Finished mounting running boards and fenders. Next hood hinges and modify trans tunnel for a little more foot room.
By the way the ride height for a truck with fenders is 5 1/2 frt and 6 in the rear
jayguy
09-21-2018, 04:49 PM
In the first pic the airplane models are right side up!
94138
In the first pic the airplane models are right side up!
Trying to figure out why they load upside down or sideways
So now I’m being told the fuel filler hose and gas cap are not part of the kit, really? WTF is up with this company?
rponfick
10-01-2018, 09:06 PM
What? I am hoping you are mistaken. Some have them. I am not getting that comfortable feeling. Does that apply to all the other parts we have not gotten?
Ralph
Update, E mailed Tony and they are included of course. Seems like I should only communicate with Tony.
Jason_Rockwell
10-02-2018, 01:37 PM
Looks great!!!
Looks great!!!
Thanks can’t wait to drive it then take it apart for Paint
Found this piece at Vintage Air, puts the A/C controls and a center vent below the dash.
KenWilkinson
10-03-2018, 09:23 AM
and this one also. I like the curve , wonder if it would match the curve of the dash. 492008 - 1932 Ford Gen II Under Dash Control Panel w/ Louver
94607
Nice looks like it might work
Made progress on my bed today. Cut the red oak boards now just need the stainless strips, drill for gas cap and stain the oak.
wallace18
10-12-2018, 06:35 AM
Looks Good!
rponfick
10-12-2018, 10:25 AM
Will you router the edges of the boards for the cover strips to fit, or can you just mount them on top of the boards? I would hope to just mount on top of boards, and give you a little protection for the wood, but not sure if that is possible.
Thanks, Ralph
95449Will need to router or groove the boards for the strips. I’ll post pictures of how I did it when completed, estimated cost for wood, stainless, bolts and stain $300.
Strips look better to me recessed but you could mount on top of the wood. They art about 1/4 inch high though.
Miller Time! Routered the edges, strips cut to length just need stain and carriage bolts
So this is what I received in the mail for my door nut plates and tail gate extensions. An empty envelope. LOL
rponfick
10-14-2018, 04:15 PM
Did you find a good source for your oak bed wood?
Ralph
Bought the Red Oak from Hood Distribution here in Tucson, $105 for about 31 board feet (rough cut) Stainless Steel strips 1107SA Dynacorn (51-53 Chev) $155 from Speedway Parts, hardware from Ace hardware. I cut the boards to 6 1/2 wide and routered the edged to recess the stainless. Shortened the stainless strips. Will stain and seal the wood next. Very happy with my $300 wood bed
Dash is in, wiring mostly complete. Just need steering universals and I can drive her. Jay at FFR said the universals are there they just need to ship them.
You work fast. Everything looks great ��
Stillwater35
10-24-2018, 08:20 AM
Are you getting enough pressure on the outside boards from the slats? Every board except the edge boards are pinched on both sides. I am thinking through if I need to pinch down the outboard edges of the boards so they don't rotate towards the center of the bed.
What are your thoughts on that?
Don’t think it will be a problem as the fit is tight. If needed a few screws from underneath will hold it.
A quick video of my first drive.
https://youtu.be/KxdHzVjpIYU
CVOBill
10-31-2018, 06:35 AM
Congrats on the first drive Marv.
Hood hinge mounting figured out, here are a few photo s
Door handles, study the picture on 338 when installing the outside handles. The control lever needs to clear the back of the door but just enough to rest on the little angled piece on the inner support as there is not spring to return the handles to horizontal. You may have to put a slight arc in them as it looks that way in the picture on 338. I also moved the control lever lower on the handle to give the cable a better angle when pulled. This is not in the Beta Manual
Replaced my upper and lower hoses with the Boig Motorsport hoses, much nicer fit and look. Thanks for the help Bob.
Just a video update of my build, love the Blueprint engine and the sound.
https://youtu.be/j8Fer5LKfII
rponfick
11-24-2018, 12:28 PM
Nice video. I see you have fenders on, especially fronts. Will you leave them on without the side engine covers? How is the mount? I have tried to test mounting the side panel, an have not figured it out yet, and not sure it is worth the trouble. May just leave them off, if the fenders can mount up firmly.
Ralph
bnelson
11-24-2018, 12:40 PM
very nice! Ive been watching the 35 builds trying to decide between the gen 2 33 or the 35 truck. Think you just made up my mind :)
Nice video. I see you have fenders on, especially fronts. Will you leave them on without the side engine covers? How is the mount? I have tried to test mounting the side panel, an have not figured it out yet, and not sure it is worth the trouble. May just leave them off, if the fenders can mount up firmly.
Ralph
Ralph yes the fenders will mount fine without the side covers. Going back and forth myself will either modify like I did on my 33 or leave them off
very nice! Ive been watching the 35 builds trying to decide between the gen 2 33 or the 35 truck. Think you just made up my mind :)
Trucks are nice for sure.
Wish my seat would come, got bored and modified the side covers
wallace18
11-28-2018, 03:46 PM
Very cool! Any way you can vent heat out of the engine area will be appreciated down the road.
bnelson
11-28-2018, 10:53 PM
Do you have some type of louvers going in the cut outs? Or just finishing out the glass?
Very cool! Any way you can vent heat out of the engine area will be appreciated down the road.
Agreed need to get the heat out
Do you have some type of louvers going in the cut outs? Or just finishing out the glass?
No louvers just the glass with openings
Stillwater35
11-29-2018, 09:24 AM
I was told that mid-december is when the seats will come in from a vendor in England. I'm waiting on those to finish lots of stuff. Maybe a FFR Christmas present?
I was told that mid-december is when the seats will come in from a vendor in England. I'm waiting on those to finish lots of stuff. Maybe a FFR Christmas present?
That would be a nice Christmas present for sure! Waiting to register mine so I can gets some miles on it. Can’t register without a seat.
Stillwater35
11-29-2018, 10:25 AM
I bought a set of roadster seats for half off so I could put one in. Mine is up for the year as we now have snow on the ground. I'll be ready to trailer it to the DMV in March!
I bought a set of roadster seats for half off so I could put one in. Mine is up for the year as we now have snow on the ground. I'll be ready to trailer it to the DMV in March!
I tried to find some or borrow but no good. Tried my RZR seats but they have to much back slope puts you’re butt real close to the steering wheel. Hopefully seats will be here soon.
Update, GREAT NEWS Jay from FFR said the interiors arrived on Friday, waiting on the side glass but the shipping dept is working to get The parts out, but are behind.
Stillwater35
11-29-2018, 11:58 AM
That's awesome news. My dad is driving up in a week and half to help install the wood bed he made and maybe we can install seats too.
That IS great news.
rponfick
11-29-2018, 07:09 PM
Regarding the radiator/hood/grill, how did you guys center the assembly with the front of the car. The brackets that the assembly attaches to the suspension allow for a lot of movement. What did you use for references?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Ralph
wallace18
11-30-2018, 07:34 AM
Use the bolts on the frame for a reference.
Use the bolts on the frame for a reference.
Ditto
Made my own running board steps. Bought some half round stainless steel, drilled and tapped the rear for studs, cut to length and tapered the ends. Just need to finish polish. Figure I saved around $350 making my own.
wallace18
12-04-2018, 09:20 PM
Very nice! Are you working in Australia ? :) LOL.
Very nice! Are you working in Australia ? :) LOL.
I found a photo editor! LOL
Seats fits very tight at the front at the trans tunnel have to move tunnel in some. Mounted hood hold downs and regulators are in. Next the glass goes in. Wednesday is the DMV for plates and registration.
bnelson
12-15-2018, 12:27 AM
What do you think of the seat height? All the pictures i have seen with someone sitting inthem they looked to be trying to see over the dash? Have not seen in person yet.
Seat height is a little low plus too far forward, going to do some experimenting
wallace18
12-18-2018, 04:32 PM
Seat height is a little low plus too far forward, going to do some experimenting
I too wish the seat was farther back, however it is already up against the roll bar bracket. I don't think you can get it back farther without modifying the seat back. Best of luck.
Agreed don’t think we can do much with the FFR seat. Can’t even put the E brake handle in the location called for. I wonder what happened with the original design bench seat they have in the brown truck. I now know why when I asked to sit in the brown truck at Barrett Jackson they said they’re not letting anyone sit in it.
Stillwater35
12-19-2018, 08:38 AM
So I made a modification over the weekend that helped install and let me keep the old e-brake design. I cut the seat frame in the front-most trans tunnel side. I cut flush with the main Frame and right in front of the welded nut for the trans tunnel cover. Makes install way easier and my e-brake fits. I ran this by Tony via e-mail and he didn't have any issues with it...
Ill get a picture of the cuts in the next few days.
Stillwater35
12-19-2018, 08:40 AM
Also, I have a set of big/tall buckets I bought to make go-karting safer. Let me know if you're interested in those instead of the bench. They're extra for me now. I'm 5'9" so I have fewer sizing issues with the seat.
FFinisher
12-19-2018, 09:11 AM
Agreed don’t think we can do much with the FFR seat. Can’t even put the E brake handle in the location called for. I wonder what happened with the original design bench seat they have in the brown truck. I now know why when I asked to sit in the brown truck at Barrett Jackson they said they’re not letting anyone sit in it.
Marv, do you have the newest style E-brake? It is shorter at the rear and has a leg that goes down to the lower portion of the frame. This "should" allow for the e-brake to mounted where FFR has it designed.
No I must not have the newest one. I check with tony. Thanks
Just an FYI plates and title acquired today for a 1935 Ford special construction. Now I can put a few miles on her. Did get nailed for $1140. Sales tax though. At least I got the copper historic vehicle plates. Hey you can take it with you. LOL
wallace18
12-19-2018, 07:59 PM
Congrats!
Houdini
12-19-2018, 10:35 PM
I got my truck coming next week if all goes well am planning on reupholstry on bench seat and jack ing it up , tired of pillows under butt !! what seems to work for shifter? wanted a 16 in and ordered and it gonna be 10 in tall , going with 302 and AOD anyone got a Minnesota inspection and appraisal ????? think this will take some modifications to make me happy but I am excited and have the shop cleaned out
Stillwater35
12-20-2018, 12:20 PM
This cut job also meant I didn't have to modify the E-brake
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99277&d=1545326347
So I made a modification over the weekend that helped install and let me keep the old e-brake design. I cut the seat frame in the front-most trans tunnel side. I cut flush with the main Frame and right in front of the welded nut for the trans tunnel cover. Makes install way easier and my e-brake fits. I ran this by Tony via e-mail and he didn't have any issues with it...
Ill get a picture of the cuts in the next few days.
Stillwater35
12-21-2018, 08:59 AM
Here's how much the frame hit my e-brake, and here's how it looks with the cushion installed. I'm fine with it as it stands.
99293
99294
Set my seat on 2x4’s to raise it some, cut these pieces out and spread the front open about an inch to get it to fit. Seems to me the roll bar gussets should be smaller and mounted higher in the future to allow the seat to be moved higher. Just my 2 cents.
Fitting door glass today, I found I have the wrong inner felts for the doors. Think they are for the HR make sure you have the correct length they go all around the inside opening.
wallace18
01-04-2019, 12:01 PM
Fitting door glass today, I found I have the wrong inner felts for the doors. Think they are for the HR make sure you have the correct length they go all around the inside opening.
Marv you have to use 2 pieces. You should have got 4 felt ones for the inside and 2 rubber ones for the outside.
Tom, Received only two, I would hope FFR would cut them longer to eliminate needing two. We’ll see. I will report what they send me.
rponfick
01-05-2019, 02:33 PM
I am with Marv. I have two pieces of the inner felt rubber, about 55” long each. Which appears to be the length you have. I have two Long rolls of the outer cat head (assembly manual term) rubber.
However, the asssembly manual seems to imply on pages 336-337 to use the felt only around the top of the frame and fill in across the bottom with the cat head. Interesting.
Wallace, did you get 4 pieces and run it all the way around?
Ralph
herb fraser
01-05-2019, 06:08 PM
I too wish the seat was farther back, however it is already up against the roll bar bracket. I don't think you can get it back farther without modifying the seat back. Best of luck.
I removed the roll bar bracket and picked up 2 inches
herb fraser
01-05-2019, 06:25 PM
Wish my seat would come, got bored and modified the side covers
love the side covers, nice upgrade
wallace18
01-05-2019, 10:16 PM
I am with Marv. I have two pieces of the inner felt rubber, about 55” long each. Which appears to be the length you have. I have two Long rolls of the outer cat head (assembly manual term) rubber.
However, the asssembly manual seems to imply on pages 336-337 to use the felt only around the top of the frame and fill in across the bottom with the cat head. Interesting.
Wallace, did you get 4 pieces and run it all the way around?
Ralph
Yes ,4-felt
rponfick
01-07-2019, 12:35 PM
On window weatherstrip questions, where are the other 4 felted pieces supposed to go (#26037), 34.25" long. They look like window runner channels of some type, but in looking through assembly manual, they are nowhere to be found. Is it just common knowledge where/how they are to be installed?
Also, I have a "U" shaped felted channel about 33" long, that I think is part 33529, called unbeaded window channel that must go somewhere?
The journey continues.
Thanks, Ralph
wallace18
01-07-2019, 04:09 PM
On window weatherstrip questions, where are the other 4 felted pieces supposed to go (#26037), 34.25" long. They look like window runner channels of some type, but in looking through assembly manual, they are nowhere to be found. Is it just common knowledge where/how they are to be installed?
Also, I have a "U" shaped felted channel about 33" long, that I think is part 33529, called unbeaded window channel that must go somewhere?
The journey continues.
Thanks, Ralph page 427 of BETA manual. shows your question.
rponfick
01-07-2019, 08:10 PM
I have looked near these pages in both assembly manuals and don't see the parts I was trying to find a home for. I understand what fits around the inner and outer window opening, but the parts I mentioned appear to be channels of some sort.
Bear with me as I am old and dense, but I still don't see where these parts fit, and how to attach them.
Thanks, Ralph
Just an FYI update on glass install I found it easier to leave the inner felt off to align the glass with the outer seal and window track channel. Then I dropped the glass and installed the inner felt. ( the one that is not correct)
Found what I think is a good place for the window switches. Plenty of room to operate.
On window weatherstrip questions, where are the other 4 felted pieces supposed to go (#26037), 34.25" long. They look like window runner channels of some type, but in looking through assembly manual, they are nowhere to be found. Is it just common knowledge where/how they are to be installed?
Also, I have a "U" shaped felted channel about 33" long, that I think is part 33529, called unbeaded window channel that must go somewhere?
The journey continues.
Thanks, Ralph
Ralph, those pieces are for the 33HR not the truck. You do not need them. I’m not sure if the aluminum channel and felt u channel will fit in the front of the truck door. I don’t believe it will but will check later today and either remove this line or edit it. Maybe Tom will say if he was able to put that vertical channel in the door, I don’t believe it is needed but will check. I received those also. Look on page 551 in the printed 33 HR manual you get a better idea of all those pieces.
wallace18
01-08-2019, 02:22 PM
Ralph, those pieces are for the 33HR not the truck. You do not need them. I’m not sure if the aluminum channel and felt u channel will fit in the front of the truck door. I don’t believe it will but will check later today and either remove this line or edit it. Maybe Tom will say if he was able to put that vertical channel in the door, I don’t believe it is needed but will check. I received those also. Look on page 551 in the printed 33 HR manual you get a better idea of all those pieces.
As Marv said that is for the 33 not the P/U. No need for it. The window tracks fine in the 2 seals that go around the door opening.
rponfick
01-08-2019, 03:01 PM
Great, thanks. I think FFR was just trying to confuse me. Which is easy to do.
How do you guys like my seat solution? I am rather proud of it.
Ralph
Great, thanks. I think FFR was just trying to confuse me. Which is easy to do.
How do you guys like my seat solution? I am rather proud of it.
Ralph
Looks like it worked out great Ralph
Erik W. Treves
01-09-2019, 07:28 PM
Found what I think is a good place for the window switches. Plenty of room to operate.
so I had planned on this spot for my truck as well... then it occurs to me...I am a big symmetry guy.. are you planning to do the same for the pass side? If so.. there will obviously be no way to roll down the pass window from the driver's side.. or worse... roll it up... without stopping the truck , getting out opening the door and then operating the window.
I ended up getting a 3rd switch... put 2 on the driver's door and one on the pass door... like OEM...
the other option if you want to "hide" them and don't want to have 3 switches is you mount them to the bottom of the dash in the middle under the gauges...
just my .02 anyway.
Cool good plan, I can reach both switches even the one on the passenger side without any problems. I have plenty of clearance between the door and dash sides.
rponfick
01-23-2019, 11:10 PM
Marv, I am working on my hood fitting and have followed the two ways to mount the hinge brackets to the radiator support. I see in your post #98 you have the brackets mounted inboard. Did you leave them that way? I have mine outboard and can not get the brackets to clear the cowl and align to the hood mount pad.
Just looking for comments by those that have been there.
Ralph
Yes I have the hinges (black pieces) right next to the radiator on each side with the top of the mounts tilted in slightly, took a while to get everything lined up.
rponfick
01-24-2019, 12:21 PM
Thanks, I will try them the way you have them.
Are you seats still up on 2x4’s? FFR has told me they have engineering working on frame supports to raise the seat.
I also swapped out my “too short” 5 point belts for their newer ones.
So, I think they are working on our feedback.
Ralph
Yes still sitting on 2x4s. Do you have a picture of the new belts? Gave my 5points to a friend that needed them for a track day car so I can’t exchange them with FFR.
rponfick
01-25-2019, 02:48 PM
The belt are shown in Wallace18 posts. FFR said they were now supplying the newer belts with the kit, which doesn’t help you much.
Ralph
Update, haven’t done much lately, been flying and waiting on my painter. Putting some miles on the truck but having idle surge issues with the Holley Sniper. It will all work out in time.
wallace18
02-01-2019, 09:18 AM
Looking good!
Erik W. Treves
02-03-2019, 08:51 AM
make sure you do the IAC setup... mine did the same thing and I had skipped over this step... reset the IAC fires ride up smooth
Sure thing I will recheck it, thanks
Too cold to sand today, thought I was in Tucson. Oh yeah it’s Rodeo week, always rains or snows.
rponfick
02-22-2019, 04:47 PM
Marv, I feel your pain. Want to trim panels and sand also, but weather not cooperating.
Ralph
rponfick
02-25-2019, 07:27 PM
Is there a story with your third photo? Did you add extra fiberglass to the cab top, or just smoothing things out?
Ralph
Is there a story with your third photo? Did you add extra fiberglass to the cab top, or just smoothing things out?
Ralph
No that’s just the way it came, still need to add a headliner or flock it. Leaning toward flock as I don’t want issues down the road with glue not holding in our desert heat. Will keep everyone updated on which I use.
Lancaster Lad
02-26-2019, 10:45 AM
Mr Marv
On post 169 the middle picture is showing a bracket for the shoulder belt. Did you purchase or make it? I am building
a roadster with 3 point harness and trying to find a nice bracket for the roll bar. Hope to see the truck at HB 2020 since
2019 seems to be a bust.
Cecil
Mr Marv
On post 169 the middle picture is showing a bracket for the shoulder belt. Did you purchase or make it? I am building
a roadster with 3 point harness and trying to find a nice bracket for the roll bar. Hope to see the truck at HB 2020 since
2019 seems to be a bust.
Cecil
Bracket is available from factory five hopefully the roll bar diameter is the same, thinking it’s different.
Lancaster Lad
02-26-2019, 06:46 PM
Marv
Thank you for the prompt reply. I am using the Breeze 1 3/4 bars.
I will call FFR in the morning and see what they say.
Closer to taking parts to the painter.
wallace18
03-12-2019, 04:11 PM
A Little Teaser
Nice and Shiny!
Some bright work completed
Robodent
03-25-2019, 05:40 PM
Looking good
wallace18
03-25-2019, 05:45 PM
Wow! I really like that grill!:cool:
rponfick
03-25-2019, 05:53 PM
Marv, how did you attach your running protection strips? Looks like stainless steel?
Ralph
Drilled and tapped from underneath, yes they are SS half round
Erik W. Treves
03-28-2019, 10:14 PM
looks good!
Inside of cab is Flocked and ready fir install.
wallace18
04-02-2019, 06:11 AM
Looks great Marv! Glad it worked out as nice for you as it did for me. :cool:
Yes and thanks to you for finding this option for the interior.
Body is sitting on the chassis, now comes the fun...again.
bnelson
04-04-2019, 11:54 PM
Beautiful! I love the solid. I plan on doing the same but maybe two tone. Keep the updates coming!
Robodent
04-15-2019, 09:47 AM
Looking great !!
Warning!! Check the stainless steel panels for good adhesion to the resin parts. As you can see mine has several loose panels requiring me to purchase 3m panel adhesive and applicator to repair. It appears the FFR adhesive sticks to the resin parts fine but not so the stainless steel. I am going to scuff up the SS before applying. It appears no preparation was done prior to installation at FFR.
Robodent
05-02-2019, 09:55 AM
Thanks for the heads up.
rponfick
05-02-2019, 10:38 AM
Marv, in post 187, is that a trap door opening for battery access? I am thinking about that.
Looking good.
Ralph
Getting there, just need the fenders and running boards.
wallace18
05-12-2019, 12:18 PM
Looks fantastic! Way to go!
Robodent
05-12-2019, 02:13 PM
Looks great ! Nice job.
DamnYankee
05-12-2019, 06:14 PM
Looking good !
herb fraser
05-13-2019, 11:51 AM
Really looking excellent !
herb fraser
05-13-2019, 11:54 AM
Just an FYI plates and title acquired today for a 1935 Ford special construction. Now I can put a few miles on her. Did get nailed for $1140. Sales tax though. At least I got the copper historic vehicle plates. Hey you can take it with you. LOL
Marv, so is your truck titled as a 35 ?
Fenders and running boards on, just need to do some final items and she’ll be done. Well is it really ever “done”. Thanks to Greg Grant for a really great paint job!
wallace18
05-17-2019, 04:28 PM
That is one sharp looking ride! Way to go!
Straversi
05-17-2019, 07:39 PM
Beautiful! Love the fenders, hood and no side panels. Great combo.
-Steve
ThickCobra
05-18-2019, 02:17 PM
Fenders and running boards on, just need to do some final items and she’ll be done. Well is it really ever “done”. Thanks to Greg Grant for a really great paint job!
Marv,
I was hoping I'd see a build with fenders and engine covers. Looks great.
Cobradavid
05-18-2019, 05:28 PM
Great looking truck!
Putting miles on the truck. Showed it at Cars and Coffee people loved it.
wallace18
07-16-2019, 04:13 PM
That is one sweet ride!
sperger72
07-18-2019, 10:32 AM
Looks awesome. These trucks have a great stance.
herb fraser
07-23-2019, 07:29 AM
Looks great !!! nice work !
rponfick
07-23-2019, 01:44 PM
Running boards look really low. Any issues with driveways, etc.?
Ralph
They are low, just go slow.
sperger72
08-25-2019, 04:54 PM
How much?
RuffShod
01-16-2020, 04:14 PM
Beautiful truck!