Ordered my MKIV

[John T]

I've been threatening to build for nearly 35 years. (first considered the Sebring from Classic motors) Finally have the room and the money to give this dream a chance. I am planning to build old school--15" wheels and a carburetor. FFR gave me an e copy of the manual. Hopefully some you with experience will help fill in the blanks.

Looking forward to April.

[Fabb]

Awesome, congrats!

[lewma]

Congrats!!

[Higgybulin]

Sounds like the build I'm planning!! Hopefully I don't have to wait as long as you did!! I will be watching for updates! Congrats and I'm jealous!
Higgy

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations John T,

You have just started an amazing journey.
Read the manual, then read it again, then one more time just for fun.
Then look at the 2nd and 3rd build threads from Edwardb.
His work is top notch and his threads are very detailed.

Congratulations Again & Welcome Aboard!

Steve

[Venom61]

Welcome to the club John. You will find information for most any problem you can run into on this forum.

[JRL16]

Congrats and welcome to one of the most amazing experiences ever. Enjoy!

[slpro1207]

Congratulations and no worries on the amount of help you will get here. Everyone will be right with you as you go.

[KDubU]

Congrats John! I also went old school as well. Tell us about your build and don't worry, you will get a ton if help here.

[Papa]

Congratulations! By far the most useful tool I've used during my build has been this forum. Every question I've had has been eagerly answered by those that have encountered and solved the same problem.

Dave

[RJD]

Congrats! Ditto to what everyone else said, plus watch the build videos for each stage before you start on each stage.

[cnutting]

Congrats. I also went old school. Even sourced a 1965 289 block... Welcome, ask plenty of questions. Take your time and take a break when you get frustrated.

[PeteH]

Congrats, take your time and enjoy the build. I went old school as well, 65 289K code but upgraded, 4sp Borg Warner, Holley 670cfm. Went with MSD billet dist and Summit box ,hopefully for reliability.
This forum is an invaluable scource of info.

[John T]

Mine will not be as traditional as yours. I plan to use a Blue Print 306 and TK0 600 for my drive train.

[GoDadGo]

Mine will not be as traditional as yours. I plan to use a Blue Print 306 and TK0 600 for my drive train.

A Non-Traditional SBC Will Fit With A Little Fab-Work & Welding, But Things Need To Move Around A Bit!
Also, the LS engines can be adapted to the stock Factory Five engine mounts.
Here is a super cool "Ford Looking" options:

https://paceperformance.com/i-23842416-gmp-19301360-chx-pace-ls3-533hp-carbureted-with-hei-as-cast-valve-covers.html

NOTE: Any Move To The Dark Side Will Cause You Some Pain!

[WIS89]

John-

Welcome to the family. The wait until you receive the kit is going to be frustrating; worse than waiting for Christmas morning when you were a kid!

You picked a great powerplant, and will be very happy with BluePrint. Solid folks with a great product!

As other have already said, the folks on this forum are awesome. It has amazed me how many times I have been bailed out by folks here. They are a tremendous resource, and can help you with any challenge you may face. It is also helpful to go through some build threads to reference along with reading the manual. It will give you some ideas that you may wish to incorporate on your own build.

Good luck as you get started, and let us know how things are going!

Regards,

Steve

[Gumball]

Old-school is cool and this will soon be your view......

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/1%20Prairie%20Road%20Sundown_zpsjbo8zucd.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/1%20Prairie%20Road%20Sundown_zpsjbo8zucd.jpg.html)

[John T]

I am considering a power brake upgrade. The techs at FF5 suggested Whitby Motors. I like to hear opinions regarding the power brake upgrade. Was the install fairly simple and did it improve the drivability of the roadster? Thanks for the the input; it's been encouraging.

[Yama-Bro]

Welcome to the club!


Mine will not be as traditional as yours. I plan to use a Blue Print 306 and TK0 600 for my drive train.

That's a great choice in powerplant...although I may be a bit biased. ;) I am leaning towards the BPE 306 in my build as well. It makes great power for the buck.


I am considering a power brake upgrade. The techs at FF5 suggested Whitby Motors. I like to hear opinions regarding the power brake upgrade. Was the install fairly simple and did it improve the drivability of the roadster? Thanks for the the input; it's been encouraging.

I was originally planning to do power brakes in my build, but the gents on this forum talked me out of it. I ended up buying Gordon Levy's Wilwood brake kit for the FFR 15" halibrands. They are the biggest brakes you can get under the 15" wheels. I've only installed the fronts so far, but they are very nice. Great instructions.

[edwardb]

I am considering a power brake upgrade. The techs at FF5 suggested Whitby Motors. I like to hear opinions regarding the power brake upgrade. Was the install fairly simple and did it improve the drivability of the roadster? Thanks for the the input; it's been encouraging.

Congrats on your kit order. You're in for an adventure. Power brakes is a personal choice and like so many of the answers starts with "It depends." The right brakes, properly installed, and properly balanced will stop the car just fine. The manual brake pedal will always be heavier. For some this is just a matter of getting used to it. For others it's a deal breaker. With the 15 inch wheels you're planning, your brake options will be limited. Factory Five will only have Ford OE style brakes available that can be made to work OK. There are Wilwood options for 15 inch wheels that would be stronger. Gordon Levy is who you should contact. If you do choose to go power, the Whitby solution is a vacuum booster. I've used it. Works fine. Does require a frame mod, which they include. The other option would be hydroboost. Mike Forte can help with that. It's a little more compact than the vacuum setup and if you're doing power steering can share the plumbing. In either case, switching the Wilwood pedal box to power assist removes the balance bar setup so you'll have to use another approach if front/back bias changes are needed. That's a pretty big difference so be sure to consider it when making your decision.

[John T]

Thanks. I don't plan to use the car on the track, and I'm sure that the disc brakes that I've ordered are sufficient. I was concerned about the pedal effort. If I decide to go to power brakes, how hard would it be to install after the car is finished and I've driven it a mile or two--hundred.

[JRL16]

I wouldn't want to install power brakes after the build. It can be done but it's so much easier when your building. As Edwardb mentioned there is a consideration for a proportioning valve need. You can get them at Jegs or Summit and they install on the rear brake line. Mine is adjustable so place it under the hood where you can access it. Good luck.

[edwardb]

Thanks. I don't plan to use the car on the track, and I'm sure that the disc brakes that I've ordered are sufficient. I was concerned about the pedal effort. If I decide to go to power brakes, how hard would it be to install after the car is finished and I've driven it a mile or two--hundred.

It's a big deal. Stock Wilwood pedal box has the master cylinders and plumbing inside the pedal box. Power brakes move all that outside plus the booster, whatever type of power you choose. Not impossible, but would not be fun or easy.

[John T]

Thanks again for the input. I'm not sure that I want power brakes at this point. I also did not choose the Wildwood option.

[BluePrintEngines]

Mine will not be as traditional as yours. I plan to use a Blue Print 306 and TK0 600 for my drive train.

CONGRATS!!! and happy to help any time you need it :)

Johnny

[edwardb]

Thanks again for the input. I'm not sure that I want power brakes at this point. I also did not choose the Wildwood option.

Just to be 100% clear, did you order a base kit or a complete kit? Not sure what you mean by "Wilwood option." A complete kit comes with a Wilwood pedal box. Whether you use Wilwood brakes (e.g. disks, calipers) is a different topic. A base kit could have the Wilwood pedal box added as an option. Or you could choose to use a Mustang donor pedal box. If you did choose to use a Mustang pedal box, then power brakes now or in the future becomes a bit simpler because in either case the master cylinder and plumbing is outside the footbox. Confused yet? Hopefully not. As a point of reference strictly FWIW, in my observation, the Wilwood pedal box is now pretty much what everyone uses.

[John T]

Just to be 100% clear, did you order a base kit or a complete kit? Not sure what you mean by "Wilwood option." A complete kit comes with a Wilwood pedal box. Whether you use Wilwood brakes (e.g. disks, calipers) is a different topic. A base kit could have the Wilwood pedal box added as an option. Or you could choose to use a Mustang donor pedal box. If you did choose to use a Mustang pedal box, then power brakes now or in the future becomes a bit simpler because in either case the master cylinder and plumbing is outside the footbox. Confused yet? Hopefully not. As a point of reference strictly FWIW, in my observation, the Wilwood pedal box is now pretty much what everyone uses.

Thanks, I wasn't aware that the complete kit had a Wildwood pedal box. I did order the complete kit; so apparently I have the wildwood pedal box. Since this is my first build I plan to stick pretty close to the manual. That means I won't be making many modifications. So, adding power brakes is not likely to happen.

[David Hodgkins]

John I've upgraded your account for full access. Here are a few threads to help with pic hosting, and maintaining your thread title as you work the build:

Embedding pics:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts
Maintaining thread titles:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19402-Changing-The-Thread-Title-Guidelines

Congratulations!

:)

[John T]

John I've upgraded your account for full access. Here are a few threads to help with pic hosting, and maintaining your thread title as you work the build:

Embedding pics:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts
Maintaining thread titles:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19402-Changing-The-Thread-Title-Guidelines

Congratulations!

Thanks

[John T]

The administrator is allowing me to add photos, so I added an avatar to my profile.

[John T]

The waiting is really hard. My car is to be ready for shipment the 14th of April. Hopefully, the weather on the east coast won't cause too much of a delay in shipment. I'll start getting my work space ready.I've gotten most of the tools I need and I'm starting to build the body buck this week. I know paint is a long way off, but I've picked my color palette. It could change but not much.

In the mean time I've spent a lot of time on the forums and I've been adding a lot to my build notebook.

So, hopefully I'll have my project here by late April. We'll see!

[John T]

The car is finally getting close to Springfield. The delivery has been delayed a couple of times, but the driver called and said he planned to be here Monday. The wait has been excruciating.

I've ordered the complete kit with:
Powder coated frame
Headers
Body cut-outs
Leather seats
Power steering components
Vintage gauges
15" Halibrand Wheels
Stainless steel bumpers
Wind wings
Visors
Wiper kit
Vinyl padded dash
Passenger powder coated roll bar
Rear brake set
Moser rear axle (327)

Mike Forte is providing the BP 306 with a TKO 600 and the hydraulic clutch.

[GoDadGo]

The fun is about to begin, but there will be a little pain:

Little Pain = Doing A Very Detailed Inventory

Make a copy of the inventory sheet and place a copy on each box because it will make finding parts once you start a snap.

[John Ibele]

The fun is about to begin, but there will be a little pain:

Little Pain = Doing A Very Detailed Inventory

Make a copy of the inventory sheet and place a copy on each box because it will make finding parts once you start a snap.

Yup, I did that too, then I went back and took a picture of each sheet to have on my phone wherever I was. It’s come in handy quite often.

[Boydster]

I just labeled my boxes with their numbers on the ends where I could see it easily. Then kept all my pages in a loose leaf binder. I could easily flip through the book, looking for what I wanted, then go straight to that box. Kept a roll of tape handy to close the boxes back up. I also started off marking things down that I had used / removed, but that got kinda old when I was taking bits out of bags.

Anyways, figure out your way, do the inventory, and have lots of fun.

[John T]

I think I got the message. Inventory! Inventory! Inventory! This is not the first forum that has given this advice. So, I guess I'll inventory. This is one part of the build my wife wants to help with. She's a retired librarian and likes the idea of organizing things.

[Papa]

I think I got the message. Inventory! Inventory! Inventory! This is not the first forum that has given this advice. So, I guess I'll inventory. This is one part of the build my wife wants to help with. She's a retired librarian and likes the idea of organizing things.

My wife helped with mine. It was a good day in the shop spending quality time with every nut & bolt in the kit. It took us about six hours to get through all of it.

[John T]

The car arrived on Monday. The inventory is complete with a few parts missing in kit and several more parts on order list. The body is off and i'm marking and removing some of the aluminum. Can't really start on the suspension until a few more parts arrive.

It's been great having my son and grand sons come over to help with the project. Next week I'll take another step and keep working; it's also good to have neighbors -- and the UPS driver stop to take a look and talk about my plans for the car.

[John T]

Installed the F panels today. I'll have to admit I was nervous drilling the first holes. But now I've broken the ice, and I 'm ready to keep moving.

[lewma]

Installed the F panels today. I'll have to admit I was nervous drilling the first holes. But now I've broken the ice, and I 'm ready to keep moving.

Congrats John! Have fun with your build!

[Rsnake]

Congratulations John, it's a fun adventure. I have had mine 7 days and made tons of progress in a short time. Compared to restoring a 50 year old vehicle building this roadster is easy. It's great not having to clean parts or deal with 50 year old grime, I don't think I will ever fix up an old car again.

[GoDadGo]

After The F-Panels The Fun Really Starts:

Front Suspension Assembly Video:
https://youtu.be/oBJ5dKLrhoU

Baby Steps Will Soon Turn Into So Much More!

[John T]

Things are moving slow. I still have several suspension and brake parts on the POL-- Parts on Order List. I've taken a few small steps--like adding the caliper brackets to the rear axle and putting the lower and upper control arms on the front. I've painted a few of the aluminum and bare metal parts. However, the more parts I paint the more that come out of the numbered boxes and so my organization is suffering.

[initiator]

It's worth the effort to keep track of parts taken out for painting, fit check, or other purposes. I had to step away from my build for nearly a year while dealing with family health issues - amazing how many parts had apparently walked away from their boxes when I returned! Even just a quick note on the build sheet or box cover is priceless as you're trying to track down parts that aren't where they're supposed to be.

I remember 'breaking the ice' with the first holes on the F-panels. I've now drilled so many rivet holes in the car that I don't even think twice about reaching for the drill.

Enjoy the fun!

[BluePrintEngines]

Mine will not be as traditional as yours. I plan to use a Blue Print 306 and TK0 600 for my drive train.

Getting there!!! it'll be rumbling before you know it!!!

[John T]

It's been a while since I've posted to this thread. The car is here and I've started. The front suspension and brakes have been installed for a few weeks now and last night I had some help and now the rear axle and three link are installed. 89091
I have had to call on tech support a few times, but I am still enjoying the process. However, the friends that helped install the axle and suspension seemed to enjoy it more the me. Maybe because they didn't have to pay for the privilege of working on it.

[GoDadGo]

Tidbit #1
Install the rear wiring harness before installing the trunk floor and fuel tank.

Tidbit #2
Drill the roll bars and mounts prior to installing the rear cockpit back and inner rear quarter panel aluminum bits.

Tidbit #3
Enjoy every minute of the build and walk away for a while when you get frustrated.

Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!

[John T]

Tidbit #1
Install the rear wiring harness before installing the trunk floor and fuel tank.

Tidbit #2
Drill the roll bars and mounts prior to installing the rear cockpit back and inner rear quarter panel aluminum bits.

Tidbit #3
Enjoy every minute of the build and walk away for a while when you get frustrated.

Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!

Good advice. Thanks for your input.

[John T]

Started to install the power steering rack. It is the one supplied by FFR. The tech at FFR indicated I could use the instructions for the manual rack. However, the bushings and sleeves supplied with kit have a 1/2" id and the bushing and sleeves in the power rack are 5/8". Do I punch out the 5/8" bushings and replace with the 1/2" bushing or do I drill the frame to 5/8"? Or is there a third option?
Thanks.

[edwardb]

Started to install the power steering rack. It is the one supplied by FFR. The tech at FFR indicated I could use the instructions for the manual rack. However, the bushings and sleeves supplied with kit have a 1/2" id and the bushing and sleeves in the power rack are 5/8". Do I punch out the 5/8" bushings and replace with the 1/2" bushing or do I drill the frame to 5/8"? Or is there a third option?
Thanks.

Don't drill the frame. Use the bushings and sleeves (and bolts...) provided in the kit. Haven't used the FF power steering rack. But sounds the same as when you buy one at the local parts store, e.g. the stock bushings and sleeves need to be removed and replaced.

[John T]

Thanks, I was leery of drilling the frame since it would make it a little weaker.

[John T]

I made a mistake putting on the steering arms early on. I discovered it as I was installing the power steering rack. I've spent the day removing parts in order to remove the steering arms and put them on the right side. Now they are on correctly and the rack is mounted and the tie rods are attached. As a novice, I find there are things to look for, like the taper of the hole, that if you don't get right you have to do them all over. Lesson learned -- I hope. Until next time.

[initiator]

Steering arm mis-installation is a lesson learned by many of us. Trust me that finding and fixing these things makes a big improvement in your confidence and understanding of the equipment as it goes together. I'd never installed a clutch or dropped an engine into a car before, but now that I've done each three times, I could do it with my eyes closed. It's the first time that's hard (and sometimes intimidating).

It's a journey. You've already made more progress than a number of kit buyers. The trick is just to keep making small victories - they add up to the big milestones: roller, go-kart, body-on, registered, graduated.

One other hard-learned lesson for me - if you find you've made a mistake and it looks like lots of work to fix, check with the forum. It's likely many others have made the same mistake and there's often a quicker/easier fix than you think. Would have saved me many, many hours of work.

BTW - my wife's parents had a place in Pittsburgh, MO for a number of years. We'd come over to Springfield sometimes when we visited. Nice country!

[John T]

Steering arm mis-installation is a lesson learned by many of us. Trust me that finding and fixing these things makes a big improvement in your confidence and understanding of the equipment as it goes together. I'd never installed a clutch or dropped an engine into a car before, but now that I've done each three times, I could do it with my eyes closed. It's the first time that's hard (and sometimes intimidating).

It's a journey. You've already made more progress than a number of kit buyers. The trick is just to keep making small victories - they add up to the big milestones: roller, go-kart, body-on, registered, graduated.

One other hard-learned lesson for me - if you find you've made a mistake and it looks like lots of work to fix, check with the forum. It's likely many others have made the same mistake and there's often a quicker/easier fix than you think. Would have saved me many, many hours of work.

BTW - my wife's parents had a place in Pittsburgh, MO for a number of years. We'd come over to Springfield sometimes when we visited. Nice country!

Thanks for the encouragement. It did feel good to have it all back together and then to install the power steering rack. It's looking like this might actually come together.

[KDubU]

There are no “mistakes” when building these cars, only lessons learned. There will be several times when you will put something together and then take it back apart. It’s part of the process so no worries.

[John T]

I don't have room in my garage to store my motor while I'm preparing my project for the installation of the motor. I've installed the radiator and finished the pedal box. I've also temporarily installed the foot boxes. What else should I do before I have my motor shipped and installed?

[Fixit]

Pre-Engine/Trans installation...
I'm somewhat in the same boat - after years in the trenches as a field service tech, swearing out loud at "Whoever designed this thing needs a punch in the nuts" ('cause they never had to fix it in the field, only on CAD/drafting table) - I'm trying to think way ahead about serviceability, and ease of access for installation.

Couple of things come to mind (some are options):
- Heater/Defroster. Get it jigged up, holes cut, and trial fitted.
- Wipers. (Wiper Motor) Needs to be done after the heater.
- E Brake lever & cables. Much easier to fit-up and get working without the transmission in the way.
- Front Battery Box.

Page ahead in the assembly manual. Look at upcoming steps and photos where the job would be a whole lot easier without a 700lb lump of iron in the way.

[John T]

Thanks, I hadn't thought about the 3 Brake.

[John T]

93546
It's off the jack stands for the first time.

[Ducky2009]

Thanks again for the input. I'm not sure that I want power brakes at this point. I also did not choose the Wildwood option.

John,

I drove my car 500 miles before painting. This allowed me to evaluate several things I was concerned about, brakes being one. I removed the body to paint, and added power brakes at that time. My car had too much go and not enough stop. LOL

Edited:
I used the Ford front brakes supplied with the complete kit and purchased the equivalent rear. Added the vacuum power. You can purchase the vacuum booster and master cylinder separately, but still need the modified (steel) brake pedal and frame rail that goes around the vacuum booster. I made mine, but I have access to a machine shop. Whitby power brake kit. I also had to add a spacer plate under the vacuum booster. Purchased it fro about $30.

[Duck62]

Good info on the power brakes. I did not even thing about the kit not having power brakes. Thanks!

[John T]

I've been working on my MK4 for 6 months, and I have made some progress--suspension, brake lines, fuel lines most of the aluminum cockpit forward, and some of the wiring. Now I'm going to have to take some time off. The doctors found some blockage around my heart and I will have surgery on Halloween. Hopefully I can be back to work on the car around Christmas or New Years. I may not be able to lift much; but I can still log on to the forum, and study the manual.

[Papa]

I've been working on my MK4 for 6 months, and I have made some progress--suspension, brake lines, fuel lines most of the aluminum cockpit forward, and some of the wiring. Now I'm going to have to take some time off. The doctors found some blockage around my heart and I will have surgery on Halloween. Hopefully I can be back to work on the car around Christmas or New Years. I may not be able to lift much; but I can still log on to the forum, and study the manual.

John,

That's a tough one, but stay positive and everything will come together when the time is right. First priority is to get yourself well. The car will still be there when you are ready to get back at it.

Dave

[SSNK4US]

Sorry to hear that John,

Just know that you have an incredible amount of positive thoughts and prayers from your big extended family out here!
With all the positive energy heading your way I’m sure you’ll be back up and around in no time.
Please let us know how your doing.

Take care of yourself John!!!

Kurt

[PeteMeindl]

John, really sorry to hear this. Focus on your health and we'll all be sending good thoughts your way!

[cv2065]

Good luck tomorrow John! I’m sure you’ll be back to your build in no time!

[FF33rod]

Best wishes for a speedy recovery!!

[GoDadGo]

Hey Gang,

We need to be praying for John today.
He's getting some work done on his heart.
Please keep he & his family in your thoughts & prayers.

Steve

[SSNK4US]

Has anybody heard any news?

[GoDadGo]

Has anybody heard any news?

Bumping Thread!

[John T]

I'm out of the hospital. According to Drs and Staff I did fine. I don't have any thing to compare it to. Anyway I am improving. They ended up doing two bypasses and a couple of other things that could help with the AFib. However, it looks like I'll have a 12 week lay off from the build.

Thanks for you concerns. I so appreciate the response here on the forum.
Thanks again John T.

[GoDadGo]

Excellent News & Don't Do Anything Stupid!

Rest, Recuperate, Rest, Recuperate, Repeat, Repeat, Repeat!

[SSNK4US]

Great to hear your back John!!!! Thanks for the update and letting us know how your doing.
Glad your doing good! Now you can relax and just exercise your brain reading the forum.
If you feel like a little humor and drama make sure you read about pressure checking your lines ;)

Welcome back John.... seriously

[John T]

It's been a while since my last post to this thread. So, here is an update. I just met with the surgeon for my follow-up. He said I am doing fine. However, I have had trouble breathing and I was not able to do the rehab that I should. The surgeon said he was sure that it was fluid build up. He was right. He drew 3 liters of fluid from my chest. He said that was a record for him. So, I think that soon I will be able to return to rehab, and hopefully to my car. Thanks agin for your concern and interest.

John T.

[CVOBill]

John,
those are records you don't want to set. Good luck with rehab and getting back to your car, just remember the car can wait until you're back up to speed.

[SSNK4US]

Hi John, I’m glad your surgeon said your doing fine! 3 liters of fluid??? Damn!!!! Take it easy man and do what the drs say.
Your car will always be patiently waiting for you when your ready to start wrenching again, which will probably be long before I catch up to you LOL

Kurt

[GoDadGo]

Wow; Dat's A Lotta Liter's John T!

Hang In There & Take It Easy, Easy, Easy!

[John T]

It's been over two months since surgery, and I am beginning to think about getting back to work on my MKIV. I had started the dash and gauges just before the surgery. I plan to finish that and then have Mike Forte send my motor. It's pretty cold in my garage, but I'm excited to get back to work.

Several of you have expressed concern and I appreciate it. It's nice to know that so many people are wishing me well. Thanks again.

[SSNK4US]

Really glad to hear your doing better John!
Baby steps.....

Kurt

[GoDadGo]

Double Ditto On The Baby Steps!
The car certainly can wait.
Trust me on that.
Good Luck!

[John T]

I do plan to take it easy, but I plan to take it. I'm anxious to get the motor here. Mike Forte finished it several months ago. So I'll like looking at it even if it just sits in my garage for a while.

[GTBradley]

I do plan to take it easy, but I plan to take it. I'm anxious to get the motor here. Mike Forte finished it several months ago. So I'll like looking at it even if it just sits in my garage for a while.
From a KC native, I’m rooting for you. I’m waiting on my Forte’s engine delivery now too.

Hope to see you cruising in the Ozarks one day. Go Chiefs!

[John T]

It's been over 3 months since my surgery and I am anxious to get back to work on the MK4. We've had a couple of warm days and i was able to spend some time in the garage. I put the padded vinyl on the dash and stared the Breeze seat modification. I am making room in the garage for my motor and plan to call Mike Forte Monday morning and have him ship it to me.
Don't expect the weather to stay mild much longer; so, I'll try to get a little more done tomorrow. By the way I'll be 72 tomorrow as well. I'd like to be ready for paint before 73.

[Papa]

John,

Good to hear you are recovering and back at the build. Happy birthday!

Dave

[John T]

Motor was delivered this morning. Thanks Mike Forte. As the garage warms up I can study the manual and find the mounts and transmission support and plan the install.102054

[GoDadGo]

Looks Like You Are Finally Feeling Better!

>>> We Hope! <<<

Welcome back to the fun of wrench swinging!

[John T]

Battery question: I'm using the Breeze front battery mount mode. Breeze said I could use a type 51. Should I go for the Optima or do I need to spend that much? Also do I need to use the reverse posts?
Thanks for the help.

[Papa]

Installed the F panels today. I'll have to admit I was nervous drilling the first holes. But now I've broken the ice, and I 'm ready to keep moving.

You'll be sooo over drilling holes before you're done!

Dave

[John T]

You'll be sooo over drilling holes before you're done!

Dave
You went back a few months for that one.

[Papa]

You went back a few months for that one.

I know -- Sometimes I don't pay attention to the latest post. So, are you over drilling yet? :p

[John T]

I know -- Sometimes I don't pay attention to the latest post. So, are you over drilling yet? :p

Mostly. The rear cockpit and trunk have to be drilled and riveted. I've done brake lines and fuel lines. The wiring harness is laid in (not all plugged in) I have the motor in the shop and when the weather warms up I'll put it in. Made some progress over the summer. Spent the winter recovery from surgery. Now I'm just waiting for warmer weather. The garage is too cold at 40 degrees.

[Papa]

You're making great progress in spite of the hurdles. Keep up the great work.

Dave

[Fixit]

Should I go for the Optima or do I need to spend that much? Also do I need to use the reverse posts?

I've never owned/used an Optima (or felt the need for it) personally. A lot of the common opinion is they're overrated for the cost and longevity.
I bought an upper/middle of the road NAPA "house brand" battery for #9365. 60 month warranty, and the highest CCA rating for the Group 51 size in that "quality" category.

I'm also using the Breeze battery box, don't get the "R"/reverse post version. Here's a few pics as to why NOT the "R" version...

102430
The "R/reverse" post version would put the + post into close proximity to the front chassis "X". If something should happen it could ground out.

102431
You can see just how close the negative cable terminal gets to the "X" member with a NON "R" version.

102432
Routing & main ground attachment ideas...

[John T]

Thanks, for the response. I have a friend at Battery Outfitters who helped me with the purchase of the Optima at a price that I could live with.

[BluePrintEngines]

Mine will not be as traditional as yours. I plan to use a Blue Print 306 and TK0 600 for my drive train.

good looking engine!

[gkp200]

I've never owned/used an Optima (or felt the need for it) personally. A lot of the common opinion is they're overrated for the cost and longevity.
I bought an upper/middle of the road NAPA "house brand" battery for #9365. 60 month warranty, and the highest CCA rating for the Group 51 size in that "quality" category.

I'm also using the Breeze battery box, and yes... get the "R"/reverse post version. Here's a few pics as to why the "R" version...

102430
The "R/reverse" post version puts the + post into the void/airspace of the front chassis "X". If something should happen there's nothing for it to ground out to.

102431
You can see just how close the negative cable terminal gets to the "X" member.

102432
Routing & main ground attachment ideas...

Looking at your photo, it seems you have a 51 not a 51R battery. My understanding is the R is for right post positive. The front of your battery is facing forward (up against the X frame) with the positive being on the left to stay away from the frame. Am I missing something?

[Fixit]

I stand corrected... It is a 51 in #9365, not an "R".

The warnings should state to not get an "R"... as it will put the + post very close to the frame "X" member.

[edwardb]

Agree that Optima batteries aren't cheap. Seems people have a love/hate relationship with them. Some say they last for a decade or whatever. Others seem to have problems just as soon as another much cheaper brands. I can only cite my experience. I've used them twice in the Breeze mount. Both still going strong. One six years old, the other three years old. They do have a 3-year full replacement warranty. But then so do others. One of the things that makes them especially expensive in this application is the only Group 51 Optima sells is their higher end yellow top deep cycle version. But I like that because it gives me a little more margin for error since our driving season is short and the car spends half the time in storage. I throw a C-Tek charger on it a couple times during storage just to be sure, and all so far is good. If you do go Optima, you want part number 8071-167 D51. That puts the terminals in the right location, with the positive post well away from the frame as mentioned. Looks like this during my #8674 build.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg.html)