Sealed Headlights?

[scottiec]

Hi Guys,

I have about 400 miles on the car and one of my headlights is already out. I was under the impression I could just change the bulb, but I think my headlights are sealed. I did order the replacement from FF for $15. But I am worried that they might not be great quality and I will have another bulb go out. I only drove at night twice.

If I have another bulb go on me, do you guys have any recommendations to keep that from happening?

Thanks!
Scottie

[RickP]

Hi Scottie.

Not sure if your deadest on keeping the FFR sealed lamps or not else your kinda stuck. A lot of guys on here upgrade to allow for halogen. Many sources out there. A forum vender on here (Watson street works) sells a very nice complete upgrade. Personally, after my first night ride I decided I needed more light and purchased “tri bars” from Moss motors and also their H4 bulbs. I like the looks and a very easily replaceable halogen bulb that doesn’t break the bank.

[scottiec]

Hi Scottie.

Not sure if your deadest on keeping the FFR sealed lamps or not else your kinda stuck. A lot of guys on here upgrade to allow for halogen. Many sources out there. A forum vender on here (Watson street works) sells a very nice complete upgrade. Personally, after my first night ride I decided I needed more light and purchased “tri bars” from Moss motors and also their H4 bulbs. I like the looks and a very easily replaceable halogen bulb that doesn’t break the bank.

Ah I see. I appreciate the heads up Rick!

[edwardb]

The kit provided sealed beam halogens don't have changeable bulbs. You replace the whole thing as you found out. They're not expensive and widely available. They typically last a long time, especially as little as we typically drive these at night. So I wouldn't be too worried about that. But they're also not very bright and IMO make the car quite uncomfortable to drive at night. New glass with replaceable halogen bulbs (e.g. H4) as suggested will provide more light and they are a bit easier to change. But they can start causing issues with current draw using the stock wiring and switch. Some end up also having to upgrade wiring, add relays, etc. Something to look at is LED lighting. Best of both worlds. Extremely bright and very low current draw. There are lots of products on the market (much of it not too great...) and lots of opinions. But lots of really good options as well. The LED headlight option from Watson's Streetworks is excellent. Have that setup in #8674 and I highly recommend it.

[Truthbetold18]

I upgrade to the PL700 Tripod head lights for the authentic look.
After recently upgrading my girl friends RAV4 with Putco LED head light bulbs at $450, I've decided not to go that route on the roadster.

[Ian G]

I have been using the FF supplied halogen sealed beams for several years without a problem. I did however rewire the light circuits using 12ga wire (power & grounds) from relays controlled by the switch. Heavier wire makes a big difference. I do plan to switch to H4 bulbs when my car gets out of the body shop sometime this spring.

Ian
5509

[rich grsc]

You can get headlights at any auto parts store, even Walmart.

[scottiec]

Guys,

Thanks so much for the info. I will replace this one for now and if I decide I am not happy, then I will absolutely upgrade. Also this is a good time to do some weatherpak connectors.

[Jazzman]

I have two of them brand new in the box just as they came from FFR. If you will cover the shipping, they are yours. I'm not going to be using them. I changed to Watson's Streetworks lights early on. Would recommend them. Fantastic light output! PM me if you would like the FFR bulbs.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You can get headlights at any auto parts store, even Walmart.

What he said. They are the same as what are on literally millions of cars on the road. About 12 bucks for halogen, 8 for non.

Jeff

[Straversi]

Anyone have details on what wiring changes are needed for the tri bars with H4 bulbs?
-Steve

[edwardb]

Anyone have details on what wiring changes are needed for the tri bars with H4 bulbs?
-Steve

In simple terms, you use the existing wiring, switches, etc. to control two relays. One for high beam. One for low. Then provide a new fused battery voltage supply to the hot side of the relay to power the lights. I would use 12 gauge wire for that plus the grounds. This thread has some good discussion and a schematic: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/190408-how-do-i-add-relay-my-headlight-circuit.html.

[Avalanche325]

Anyone have details on what wiring changes are needed for the tri bars with H4 bulbs?
-Steve

Zero for standard ones. A sealed beam is 40 / 60 watts. A standard H4 is 55 / 60 watts. Plug them in an go.

If you are putting in off-road 100 watt bulbs, or you are trying to squeak every single lumen out, you may need to do some upgrades. If you do use relays, they should be mounted very close to the bulbs. The idea is to go from the power source (alternator, not the battery) to the bulb with the shortest wire possible.

[Papa]

Zero for standard ones. A sealed beam is 40 / 60 watts. A standard H4 is 55 / 60 watts. Plug them in an go.

If you are putting in off-road 100 watt bulbs, or you are trying to squeak every single lumen out, you may need to do some upgrades. If you do use relays, they should be mounted very close to the bulbs. The idea is to go from the power source (alternator, not the battery) to the bulb with the shortest wire possible.

Excellent advice! If you stay with "normal" bulbs and away from "face melters", your standard wiring will be just fine. This topic is discussed constantly on the Jeep form I used to hang out on. For everyone's sake, please don't run off-road bulbs on the road. They are blinding. Also, don't run HID bulbs in halogen reflectors - same result. That said, I did wire my headlights through a relay as Paul recommends. I did it to avoid having the higher current for the headlights running directly through a switch, although the FF provided dimmer switch is rated to handle the load. I used a single pole double throw relay that toggles high/low beam operation with low beams as the default (normally closed) state of the relay.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/36227850843_29f0f54c66_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XckcTZ)

I like these e-code (approved in Canada, but not the US) reflectors, but with Sylvania Silver Star Ultra H4 bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G72SKQ/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2W6WQN09R7946&colid=TU1R4N1KFE6A&psc=1

Dave

[Truthbetold18]

X2 the Avalanch325. Plug in and go.

[cnutting]

I upgrade to the PL700 Tripod head lights for the authentic look.

Any mods needed to the mounting/bucket or do they just drop in?

[RickP]

Any mods needed to the mounting/bucket or do they just drop in?

They are interchangeable. Be careful of the little metal mount tabs (3 each lamp), they break very easily. In my case, I cutoff tabs from some bar stock I had laying around that was the same width of the mounting tab ID. drilled a hole in each end and chucked the supplied FFR tabs in the trash.

[cnutting]

Thanks! Looks like another parts order coming up...

[scottiec]

I have two of them brand new in the box just as they came from FFR. If you will cover the shipping, they are yours. I'm not going to be using them. I changed to Watson's Streetworks lights early on. Would recommend them. Fantastic light output! PM me if you would like the FFR bulbs.

Sorry I didnt see this! I am all set but I appreciate the offer.

[scottiec]

I got the replacement in last night. If I have any more issues I will be upgrading for sure. Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the help.