Push Button to Start on Roadster

[Fabb]

I saw the chat on the GTM forum, and was curious if anyone in here has done a push start button in an MK4?

[michael everson]

This used to be a popular thing on Cobras years ago. Lost of people used the Honda S 2000 starter button. Havent seen it in a while though. Do a search and you will find plenty of info.
Mike

[Papa]

Here is a push-button start kit from one of the forum's vendors:

https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/hot-dot-all-in-one-ignition-start-stop-switch/

[edwardb]

Answer to your first question is yes, lots of builds have had start buttons. Then the question is how elaborate are you interested in making it? Real easy to use the standard ignition key, turn the key to run, and then push a start button. If you want to eliminate the ignition switch, get's a bit more complicated. The linked switch from Watson's Streetworks is an example that duplicates the function of the ignition switch, but doesn't have an actual lock function. That could be addressed several ways if you want one. If you want to go full on RFID pushbutton start, Watson's Streetworks has that. Another choice for that are also offerings from Digital Guard Dog. These can get a little complex to wire, and aren't cheap. But an option.

As an aside comment, I see you have Coyote power listed in your sig line. Since Mustangs all have pushbutton start, it's already sort of built in. The crate controls pack needs an ignition sense wire (e.g. always on 12 volts) and a start sense wire (e.g. 12 volts to initiate the start). These are routinely wired through the standard ignition switch, which is what I've done. But you only need to turn the ignition switch to start briefly and the engine continues to crank until it starts. This could easily be replaced/duplicated with a pushbutton start switch.

[skidd]

I went the s2k button route, with no key. I just get in and go.
Used a DEI 2102t for RFID security. It works, but has one fatal flaw, the starter kill circuit allows the engine e to start after reconnecting the car battery. They to!d me its by design.. What a crock. I built a custom circuit board that tied into the door lock/unlock circuit. It works, but I dont like that I needed to do this. Perhaps a lipo battery backup to maintain power to the module would gave been easier. I'm contemplating going that route if my circuit board mod doesn't last.

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20170924_161030_595.jpg

One of those rubber hose adapters that come with the kit , and a hose clamp, are perfect to lock the button in place.
https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/cache/Shanes%20Cobra/TheBuild/IMG_20170910_115957_595.jpg

[boat737]

I have an Advanced Keys setup. https://advancedkeys.com/ Obviously I don't have the door lock, window closer, etc, but it has a remote and sense function that when in range, the system is active and the alarm is off. Walk out of range, the systems disarms, and the alarm sets/arms.

[Big Blocker]

Did one on mine when I built it 15 years ago.

Simple electronic store RED push button ($6.00) activates a relay ($8.00) that is the "switch" to the "S" terminal on my start solenoid. Key is wired without "start" circuit, just "run".

You can see it here, just left of the speedo . . .

https://s18.postimg.org/dka8aip5l/PB100005_Re_Size.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Doc

[SerpantFL]

Hi Doc, Is it OCD or just overdone to use your setup, push the button to build oil pressure, then turn the key to energize the mill? I am prebuild and am reading everything I can on FFF. Thanks, Anthony

[johnnybgoode]

I saw the chat on the GTM forum, and was curious if anyone in here has done a push start button in an MK4?

I used one of these. No relay required. http://colehersee.com.au/product/spst-off-mom-on-start/

80776

[phileas_fogg]

I used the Digital Guard Dawg system. The specific product I used has been discontinued; the closest current offering is the PBS-i (http://digitalguarddawg.com/product/pbs-i/). The only downside I've found is it takes some practice to learn how to restart quickly, like if you stall in a parking lot & need to get out of the way. Other than that it's really cool.


John

[GWL]

I've considered wiring a hidden start button in parallel with the key switch. That way I could turn over the engine to pump up the oil after it had been sitting for a while.

All you need is the switch wire going to the starter solenoid on the starter, no extra relay is needed.

George

[boat737]

I used the Digital Guard Dawg system. The specific product I used has been discontinued; the closest current offering is the PBS-i (http://digitalguarddawg.com/product/pbs-i/). The only downside I've found is it takes some practice to learn how to restart quickly, like if you stall in a parking lot & need to get out of the way. Other than that it's really cool.


John

Funny, the same issue with the Advanced Keys. A little bit of coordination with the brake pedal and push button, but in the heat of trying a fast restart, it's a bit confusing. I'm getting better though.

[Driver_WT]

I have a push button start. I also left the wiring on the ignition key switch just in case the push button does not work.

[DaleG]

I used the Digital Guard Dawg system. The specific product I used has been discontinued; the closest current offering is the PBS-i (http://digitalguarddawg.com/product/pbs-i/). The only downside I've found is it takes some practice to learn how to restart quickly, like if you stall in a parking lot & need to get out of the way. Other than that it's really cool.


John

Ditto. I needed help with the wiring, but DGD is great giving help/guidance.

[Big Blocker]

SerpantFL,

Sorry for the delay, been working on getting ready for Huntington Beach in April.

No, it's not overkill to want oil pressure to come up to a few pounds before the engine [actually] starts, not at all . . .That being said, I didn't wire it that way because it would involve me pressing the Start button and then turning the key on to fire - or - Vise-versa. I have enough things to remember when starting my car to not add even more . . . . and, if I were to wire it that way, I wouldn't use a start button, I'd use safety toggles. My bear-bones street driven race car does not have any safeties on it (clutch switch, neutral switch), so remembering those little things are just about all my old single brain cell can handle - Ha!

FWIW, I installed a relay between the start switch and my starter solenoid because when I built this circuit, the only switch I could find that looked decent was an "electronic" part, only rated at 200Ma draw. That would have smoked immediately if I would have connected it directly to my solenoid terminal.

[Almost] everything behind my dash is very low amperage draw - nothing over 2 amps. Everything is relay switched.

Doc.

[SerpantFL]

Doc, No worries, I am also of the bare bones school. It is like anything else that requires attention (sometimes tough at an age) to detail. I like the idea of preoiling the mill, then hit the key and listen for the quiet rockers and loud exhaust. You still have the security of a key but you get to baby the engine for ( I think) a longer life. Anthony

[Jazzman]

I did use the Watsons Streetworks pushbutton start system with RFID security. I had a couple of hiccups due to a required change in programming as Ford changed from the Gen 1 to the Gen 2 Coyote, but once they got that minor problem fixed, it has worked great. I like the RFID security. I started the car, then walked in the house to get my sunglasses. The engine shut off because the RFID chip was too far away! If someone does steal the car, they are not going to get far without that RFID chip!! I would recommend the system and use it again.

[Jazzman]

I recently got a "like" from "Toadster" of my 2/14/2018 reply to this thread. Since my opinion of this product has changed dramatically, I decided I had better post a follow up. I wrote that post during the time that Fliptop was in the interior design shop. I was not driving her at all until after the Huntington Beach Cruise In in April of that year. After the show, I started driving her more consistently. I discovered that the Watson's streetworks system would intermittently shut off for no reason. After several calls to Watson's, I decided that the system, at that time at least, was not dependable enough for my use. I removed it and returned it to Watsons. I will give them credit, they admitted that they had had quite a number of issues with the model that I had, and were quite professional in return my full purchase price. I was impressed with the company, even if the product was not ready for prime time. I can't begin to say if they have updated their product by now. (I rather expect that they have.)

So there you have my follow up opinion. Like any other, it is only one man's perspective. Your mileage may vary. Do not take on an empty stomach. My best to all!