Brian's Northern CA Gen 3 Coupe Build

[TheBabyBadger]

AND IT BEGINS!

Wow, I'm so excited! Thanks to those I've already been in touch with, and those who have reached out. My order is sent and my anticipated arrival date is during the first week of may. We are closing Escrow on a new home, so it gives me some move in, settle in time! I secured my donor for major parts (to simply the CA registration process) a little while back. If you'd like the info on the donor, click here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27085-Nor-Cal-North-Bay-MK4-Roadster-Build-Donor-Secured!

FYI I went through and added pricing. It's pretty relevant as my "budget" when I began was $30k. Some of these prices I received a discount on or am a vendor for, but this is FAIR MARKET PRICING on all this... in other words, what most people pay. You may get a deal on some items, I get it. I just want people to have a scope of this investment. It's no small chunk. I'll do my best to keep this accurate as I add to the build. Some items (fuel system) were added as a whole number but pieced together. This DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING. Hahah... I believe it was $2000 flat to CA. Please PM if you have a question about any of this.

From Factory Five:
65 Daytona Coupe Base Kit - $16,999
Gloss Black Chassis - $499
Body Cut Outs - $149
Adjustable Lower Control Arms - $450
28 Spline Driveline - $385
3 link rear suspension upgrade - $850
Ceramic Headers (4:1) - $ 825
GPS Gauges - $425
Carpet Kit - $325
Leather Steering Wheel - $125
Coyote Install Kit - $475
Coyote Steering Rack - $1150
Front Sway Bar - $240
Battery Cut Off - $85
Chassis Harness - $499
Custom Coyote Harness - $1300
Heater/AC/Defroster - $1550
Hi-Back Aluminum Race Seats - $650
Retractable 4-Point Harnesses - $250
2012 BOSS 302 "Road Runner" Engine (Forged 444hp) $11,000 shipped
Red Key Flash for ECU - $350
Tremec T56 Magnum - $3300
Custom Intake for Coyote - $120
2016+ Coyote Starter- $165
McLeod RST Twin Disc w/28ls flywheel - $1050
HydroMax Hydrualic Slave Kit - $650
3.55 Track Lock w/Posi - $800
Strange 5 lug axles - $250
SVE Cobra Big Brake Kit - $750
New OEM Tank - $300 painted
Walhbro 255 fuel pump - $100
Holley Sniper Fuel System - $350
Tilton Tri-Resevoir - $120
SVE Gloss Black FR500 Staggered 18x9 and 18x10.5 w/Nitto NT05 - $2200

Grand Total: $49,235

Lots of extras and plans and fun additions to the build... but obviously a long way off. So wish me some luck and I'll keep you updated once the build begins! Feel free to reach out and comment as this progresses. I always love feedback, praise and hopefully there isn't much need for criticism!

Oh - If anyone has a Coupe in Northern CA and wouldn't mind me checking it out, PLEASE reach out!

INDEX:
PAGE 1 - Build sheet, changes, arrival, fuel tank, rear end/3 link and index!
PAGE 2 - Front suspension, sway bar, brakes, engine prep, pedal install

[Dlirium]

Great stuff Brian, Welcome - looking forward to coming over and seeing it live!!

brent

[Tuftster]

Congrats on the order! It sounds like you got a good plan together. I was starting to think I'd be the only one with a solid axle Gen 3.

I'm in the East bay and just started on my build in November. It's mostly still just a frame surrounded by boxes but your welcome to come check it out if you're in the area and interested.



Great stuff Brian, Welcome - looking forward to coming over and seeing it live!!

brent

Brent, that offers good for you too.

[TheBabyBadger]

Hell yeah man! Maybe I can still back out if it scares me....?

Mine should move along quickly. I'm hyperactive and tend to get bored quickly. Working on my motor build currently. I've got some guys in Road Island who are going to build me a nice 331.

Do you guys happen to know if there are ANY issues running an aftermarket pan? A canton was suggested to me for increased baffling. Thanks!

[Dlirium]

Congrats on the order! It sounds like you got a good plan together. I was starting to think I'd be the only one with a solid axle Gen 3.

I'm in the East bay and just started on my build in November. It's mostly still just a frame surrounded by boxes but your welcome to come check it out if you're in the area and interested.




Brent, that offers good for you too.

Thanks, yes - that's a must. Still crossing my fingers for delivery this month..may slip into the first week of March.

[Dlirium]

Do you guys happen to know if there are ANY issues running an aftermarket pan? A canton was suggested to me for increased baffling. Thanks!

From what I've read and understand, most guys do go with something like a Moroso oor a Canton. Here is a picture of one on a Coyote that clears everything nicely from Paul's (EdwardB) coupe build thread:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80950&d=1518656847

brent

[TheBabyBadger]

I do love his build thread! Planning to run a Canton. Creb engineering is building my motor. Anyone know of them!? Feedback? Seem very legit and they are very familiar w/ FFR!

[Tuftster]

Shoot me a PM when you guys are ready.

[TheBabyBadger]

Finally an update! OMG I feel like I've been gone for months! Or have I...?

I know all anyone wants to see are the pics, so I'll be brief here. I scored a 2012 BOSS Mustang 302 rather than a run of the mill Coyote. This motor is nicknamed the "Road Runner" for those not familiar. 7500RPM redline (that makes power to 8,000RPMS!). It makes 444hp through mufflers and cats. They are hand built. Have the Ford Racing R heads (better oil drainage). Sodium filled valves. Etc and Bunches more... if you're not familiar, Google them!

Currently Eric Brooks of Brooks Speed is working my ECU to delete PATS and the emissions related functions. Putting a mild tune, that should net me a few ponies, easily in the 460 engine hp range. I'll tune later, but am toying with the idea of installing cams from Power By the Hour. They made 470WHP with JUST CAMS! Anyway... side note.

T56 Magnum (Brand Spankin' new) with a 2.66 first. Tri Ax shifter.

McCleod RST Twin Disc good for 800 ponies.

McCleod Lighter (20lbs) flywheel. Should retain street manners and rev like a sum-b*tch.

HotWireAuto is building me a harness from my OEM harness. Because I basically got the entire running gear, ecu, column, maf, etc from my engine vendor, the custom harness was cheaper than the Ford Racing pack, and I got a custom tune.

A SPECIAL SHOUT OUT to my new buddy Erik at Midway Mustang in Dewitt, Iowa. He's not a vendor so I wont directly link him, but if you're motor shopping this guy is NAILS. He sells CLEAN motors from good wrecks and will take care of you after purchase. He's easy to reach, fairly priced, and wont leave you hanging like some will. He also has some INSANE cars he buys and parts... so you can get Twin Screw Roush donors, Saleen, SHELBY, etc. I'm sure I've plugged him enough, but just really appreciate good people out there as they seem to be on the decline, unfortunately.

So that's where I'm at. Kit is still coming Mid-May, and I am JUICED. When it arrives I'll update with my complete parts list and more. I've got 95% of my build and everything else on the way for the ins-and-outs, small items, etc. The Devil is in the details, right?!?!?

AND WITHOUT FURTHER STALLING - PICS:

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More updates when the kits arrives!

God Speed and God Bless!

[cgundermann]

Very, very cool - nice score on the motor!

Chris

[David Williamson]

AND...... there goes the original plan before the kit arrives. Nice engine, will be a cool build.
David W

[TheBabyBadger]

AND...... there goes the original plan before the kit arrives. Nice engine, will be a cool build.
David W

I think about 27 original plans have gone out the window so far... they seemed to be directly tied to my "budget." Which now seems to be a unicorn as well. Oh well... You only live once. I've been blessed with some increases I didn't expect at work, thus the modifications, and I'm not exactly complaining!

Thanks guys!

[TheBabyBadger]

Couple more goodies showed up!

Also, I just got off the phone with Factory Five for an update and confirmed a May 12th completion date! JUICED! So I should be putting my hands on the chassis by the end of the Month! Enjoy the photos!

OH... I thought I should mention: If you're considering installing a Coyote, DOWNLOAD THE INSTRUCTIONS. There is a PLETHORA of additional parts you need, even beyond the control pack. My current tab is just over $3k but I'm doing this all by the book and correctly. This was an expense I didn't budget for in my original change from my original plan (LOL), so I figured I'd put it on the table. Still, IMHO, well worth it, but there is definitely a considerable expense to do newer Ford Motors. Don't hesitate to PM me if you need specifics or ask here. This is my first KIT but I've EXTENSIVE car experience and I'm happy to share all figures, plans, money spent, etc. ENJOY!

At this point I should throw my buddy Mark a bone, too! He owns NorCal LSX and is not only a GURU on everything engine related, he is a T56/TR6060 genius. He drops ships and is easy to reach. All legit and on the up and up. PM for contact info as again, he is not a registered vendor, but he is a bad azz co-conspirator to have in your corner.

If you're on the WEST COAST and need paint, and don't want to be ripped off or gouged (and I'm not saying most shops will)... I'm the man you need to talk to. I'll (have my painter) paint something I don't even need to show you his skill! Always feel free to reach out or PM me. Thanks!

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Here's a shot of my C5. No cutting or rubbing. PPG base and Production Clear. Custom color 50/50 Jet black/pure black. Custom drop coat (washed out). I painted this one, and it was a complete color change, so it's not as good as my tenured painter... but it's still better than a lot of the paint jobs I see out there (not so much on the forums).

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[David Williamson]

is that a front sump oil pan? if so I don't think it will fit in the new Gen 3 frame, there are 2 angle braces at the front of the engine bay that limit the width in front. Mine is an old school Dart 363 small block and rear sump oil pan, different engine but I think the oil pan is about the same size and location in the frame. check it out, might save you some issues down the road
David W

[edwardb]

is that a front sump oil pan? if so I don't think it will fit in the new Gen 3 frame, there are 2 angle braces at the front of the engine bay that limit the width in front. Mine is an old school Dart 363 small block and rear sump oil pan, different engine but I think the oil pan is about the same size and location in the frame. check it out, might save you some issues down the road
David W

That's the usual Moroso low profile pan used for Coyote builds. The sump is on the back. The front clears the frame just fine. I have a Coyote with that pan mocked up in my Gen 3 Coupe right now and there are no fitment issues.

[TheBabyBadger]

That's the usual Moroso low profile pan used for Coyote builds. The sump is on the back. The front clears the frame just fine. I have a Coyote with that pan mocked up in my Gen 3 Coupe right now and there are no fitment issues.

Correct. It's the low profile rear sump pan. The OE pan is too low and I don't wanna pave the freeway with my lube juices if I hit a pothole. It's also "required" for the Coyote in the Gen 3. Additionally, it add 2 quarts of oil to the overall capacity and has windage trays and removable baffling in case I wanna get her on the track... or sideways. :)

[TheBabyBadger]

Just waiting to be picked up!!! There aren't words to describe the anticipation!!!

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[Clover]

Just waiting to be picked up!!! There aren't words to describe the anticipation!!!

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I am right there with you. My coupe is also waiting to be shipped and I am buzzing. I know of two other roadsters that were finished on the same day as my kit that are getting shipped to the west coast as well. Hopefully they will be able to load up a truck and head out west soon. I think they are a bit behind on shipping with the winter sale and the problem that Stewart Transportation seemed to be having.

[TheBabyBadger]

Sounds like our cars are traveling in the same truck. My coupe is also going on this next west coast truck. DAMMMMNNNIIIIITTTTTT!!!!!

[TheBabyBadger]

Now begins the longest count down of my life. Kit is SHIPPED. T-minus 12 days!

[Clover]

Nice, glad your kit has shipped as well. I am at T-minus 6-9 days which basically puts me around fathers day. Your kit must be on the same truck. If I can, I will send you a little souvenir from Colorado with your kit.

The timing is not awesome for me as I just learned yesterday that my dad is having some major medical procedures starting the following week and I can't take time off work because we have people coming into the office to meet with me at the beginning of the week. I know once it gets here, all I will want to do is start building, however, I will be dealing with big wigs from New York and worrying about my dad instead.

[TheBabyBadger]

I'm sorry dude, and I appreciate the gift in advance, lol. I LOVE how connected this forum is. I swear I havent seen one arguement here, GUINESS BOOK THAT!

I'll keep your pops in my prayers, but I'm sure all will turn out okay. Silver lining... with everything going on you have some amazing distraction to keep your mind from going into places it doesn't need to be. Idle hands are the devil's workshop and there doesn't seem to be anything "idle" about what's coming on these trucks for us.

Feel free to keep in touch or shoot me a PM with your cell... it would be nice to be able to encourage each other along without them being major posted milestones. Unfortunately, I wont be that guy posting little increments, it will be big chunks. ReInCarnation is following/publishing my build, too... so it should be interesting.

Keep in touch, chin up man!

[Clover]

Thanks, that is awesome that your build will be followed by ReInCarnation. I will certainly be following that. Great idea to reach out early and get that set up.

[TheBabyBadger]

Yeah! The squeaky wheel gets the grease, right?

I have an investor building a shop right now... and eventually I will be BEGGING FFR and possibly other kit builders to become a West Coast Distributor/Builder... but SHHHHH... don't tell anyone! Unless they're interested! Have them PM me. :)

[TheBabyBadger]

Driver called (it was like getting a phone call from Santa!). Delivery scheduled for 10am on 6/21! So.... close...

[TheBabyBadger]

Today is THE DAY! Stay tuned!

[TheBabyBadger]

So it's here. BEST. FEELING. EVER. Here's some pics, since we love those! For the record it's like 90* today. OYE... but better than over 100* the next two days.

No better sight:

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The infamous crane pic!

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Safe and sound inside!

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Unloaded...

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Wait... I have to put it together, too?

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So it begins!

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I'll get it sorted and probably have some updates later this weekend. Thanks for all the encouragement and help in advance. ESPECIALLY thankful for all you who have written articles addressing the speed bumps I feel I now may avoid. Looking forward to making some progress, small but often.

Happy Friday Jr.!

[Clover]

Looks good, this is going to be an awesome build and I am looking forward to following it. Congrats.

[Mark Eaton]

Thats awesome! Its such a great feeling. Keep posting !

Mark

[David Williamson]

big day and the now the fun parts begins.
David W

[TheBabyBadger]

Will do and thanks all! Tonight is Step 1: INVENTORY. I've added an INDEX already, too. :) Learning from those who went before me!

[Matt K.]

Since it looks like you'll be busy with the coupe for a while, why don't I just swing by and move that boat out of the way for you for the summer? :rolleyes:

[TheBabyBadger]

Since it looks like you'll be busy with the coupe for a while, why don't I just swing by and move that boat out of the way for you for the summer? :rolleyes:

Oh the boat gets plenty of use, Matt... :) Do you board? You local?

Sunday. It's of note I split my head open on a fin... but didn't "require" stitches per my professional opinion!

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[q4stix]

Oh the boat gets plenty of use, Matt... :) Do you board? You local?

Sunday. It's of note I split my head open on a fin... but didn't "require" stitches per my professional opinion!

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Funny, one of the last times I went wakeboarding and the binding broke I split my head open on a fin too. Mine needed stitches though haha

Congrats on the kit arrival! You've almost caught up to me completely!

[TheBabyBadger]

HAHAHAHAHA... yeah those fins smart!

So I took a hiatus, but for a reason. There were some parts that didn't come. I'm not a 1 hour tinkerer type guy. I tend to take longer to remember where I was, and pull out all my tooling than what really gets done. SO... as of Friday (tomorrow) I will have the rest of my parts. Ironically I was missing an item or two from each component. No one's fault, but I wasn't looking to half *** the install. I like knocking off big chunks. Less gets forgotten. So I've prepped the rear end, front suspension, brakes, gas tank, power steering rack and sway bar for installation. I'll post pics and maybe video of some of the install items early next week. It's finally getting underway!

In the meantime... the lakes are GORGEOUS! I know I know... BUILD ALREADY!

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:cool:

[TheBabyBadger]

Okay so I didn't come close to my goal..but I was foiled again. My LCAs were part of my "OWED" parts and they shipped with no bolts. They're also HUGE and costs almost $30 each, plus nuts, so I'm going to wait for FFR to ship them to my by Friday.

IN THE MEANTIME, progress was still made. I laid out ALL PARTS and set them in the area they'd be installed, since this is the 3rd missing parts run now (2nd missing part that shouldn't have been). I was also able to weld and refinish the 3 link upgrade as recommended by FFR, so it's ready to install. So the next plan is to knock out gas tank, front suspension, steering, and rear end by end of day Sunday, which should now be in line. I'll made progress the next couples days. Here are some fun install and preparation pics, since that's all you wanna see anyways!

There was some confusion on whether or not I install the steering rack inner tie rod spacers, but FFR said since they supplied the rack, they have been installed already, even thought they came in the package. Fingers crossed!

Enjoy! More updates this weekend! And yes... haven't taken the body off. I will once it's in the way. No room. In fact, consolidating and making room is really the hardest part so far! Have a great week...

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[TheBabyBadger]

Some progress. But digress... when you get your kit... don't check in boxes... LAY THEM OUT. Still missing the LCA bolts. Looked like I had em, but alas incorrect. $27 each from Ford, plus nuts. So I wait (or maybe I wont, and resell the ones they are sending, lol). BUT, I made some good progress and the build is feeling a lot less large and ominous. It's going together quickly. No snags. Good instructions. I flew through this:

Gas tank (painted) installed and LCAs installed (easier this way IMHO):

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Rear end prepped and upper link installed. 3 link welded in place.

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In place:

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Installed with coil-overs. Pretty straight forward. No issues. INSTALLED AT "RACECAR HEIGHT". I like my cars LOW and will run 18s. Anyone have input here?

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Started on the front end... no bolts. No instructions for Sway Bar upgrade. Got instructions emailed. Waiting on LCA bolts. FYI they are M16x120, unsure on pitch. And those are my knuckle adapters hanging from the front end. Primer/Gloss Black acrylic enamel. Quick. Cheap. I invested in a case of this for $12. BOOM.

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[edwardb]

Installed with coil-overs. Pretty straight forward. No issues. INSTALLED AT "RACECAR HEIGHT". I like my cars LOW and will run 18s. Anyone have input here?

The 4-inch "regular" chassis height is still low. At least where I come from. :cool: It's already challenging sometimes. Speed bumps are a definite no-no. Certain driveways are a problem. Trailer ramps can be a problem too. One thing to keep in mind is I've never actually scraped the chassis running at 4 inches. But I have scraped the underside of the nose on my Roadsters a couple of times. It's even lower and with the distance from the front wheels not hard to catch because of the angle. The Coupe would be even worse maybe. I'm building mine at the regular height, but as we always say, it's your build. Go for it!

[TheBabyBadger]

The 4-inch "regular" chassis height is still low. At least where I come from. :cool: It's already challenging sometimes. Speed bumps are a definite no-no. Certain driveways are a problem. Trailer ramps can be a problem too. One thing to keep in mind is I've never actually scraped the chassis running at 4 inches. But I have scraped the underside of the nose on my Roadsters a couple of times. It's even lower and with the distance from the front wheels not hard to catch because of the angle. The Coupe would be even worse maybe. I'm building mine at the regular height, but as we always say, it's your build. Go for it!

Thanks for the insight... My driveway is really wide so pulling out wont be a problem... anyone set at the lower suspension point have any insight? It's not hard to raise later, but I'd prefer to do it once. pictures appreciated!

[edwardb]

Thanks for the insight... My driveway is really wide so pulling out wont be a problem... anyone set at the lower suspension point have any insight? It's not hard to raise later, but I'd prefer to do it once. pictures appreciated!

It's a relatively new feature from Factory Five. Not sure how many finished builds there will be.

[TheBabyBadger]

It's a relatively new feature from Factory Five. Not sure how many finished builds there will be.

Guess I get to test pilot. Maybe it will let me run some GT350R 19" wheels.

:cool:

[Tuftster]

For what it's worth, there might be an issue opening the hood at "race" ride height without the nose hitting the ground. I think that's why F5 ran the air jacks on their Coupe-R.

[TheBabyBadger]

I'll report back. I am going to test fit the hood in the next few weeks, so I'll test then. I have 17s, 18s and 19s to test with, so I'll send pics of all clearances. Thanks for the input.

[TheBabyBadger]

Okay here's some more progress. I got all the front suspension installed and most of the sway bar. I'm again missing some small items. I keep borrowing from other bags in the kit, which is screwing me up. So this week I'll button this up and stop robbing Peter to pay Paul. The geometry looks a little funny to me, so I'm leaving all adjust suspension items semi-loose until it's on the ground with the motor and interior installed. Then I'll get the geometry close and finalize it once it's together and painted. Pretty routine but always open to comments, suggestions, etc. I'll button up the sway bar this week and throw a couple photos up.

NEXT: Steering column, pedals, brake lines, clutch line, fuel lines, rivet in engine panels and cover them with thermal padding to keep heat out of the foot wells. Stay tuned!

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3 link finished up:

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[Clover]

Coming along nicely and you have sure pulled to a good lead ahead of me. Can you give us some more details on the SVE Cobra Big Brake Kit? It looks like a nice upgrade over the 11 inch standard front brakes and I bet it is more affordable then the Willwoods. I have seen others mention them on the forum but I have never seen anywhere that gave much detail. Thanks for sharing.

[stack]

I sure someone will chime in but i think your upper control arms are on wrong. You have the upper ball joint pointing inward instead of outward. I have not used those mustang spindles in a long time so double check me

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90808&d=1533577900

http://i.imgur.com/0sEVK1s.jpg

stack

[TheBabyBadger]

Coming along nicely and you have sure pulled to a good lead ahead of me. Can you give us some more details on the SVE Cobra Big Brake Kit? It looks like a nice upgrade over the 11 inch standard front brakes and I bet it is more affordable then the Willwoods. I have seen others mention them on the forum but I have never seen anywhere that gave much detail. Thanks for sharing.

I had the Cobra Brakes on my donor. It's the only used part I installed. I LOVED THEM on the donor/race car. They're not as pretty as the Willwoods... but after running Willwoods on my last two vehicles (C5 and 68 Nova) I remain completely unimpressed by them. They work well, but I've always ended up having to shim and move things around, and they're measurements for wheel fitment weren't accurate and almost cost me a pair of 19" CCWs. So... there ya go. Dollar for Dollar, these are EXCELLENT program brakes for small dollars. I'll upgrade them latter if needed.

[TheBabyBadger]

I sure someone will chime in but i think your upper control arms are on wrong. You have the upper ball joint pointing inward instead of outward. I have not used those mustang spindles in a long time so double check me

stack

I actually tried flipping them and the inward angle is too extreme, the camber goes crazy negative. It looks a bit off, but geometry wise seems more correct than the other way. They also came assembled as currently installed. However, I still agree with you... visually I was a bit thrown off. If some one knows differently or has a proper installed pic which varies from mine, please.. I'm all ears and eyes. Thanks for chiming in!

[edwardb]

I actually tried flipping them and the inward angle is too extreme, the camber goes crazy negative. It looks a bit off, but geometry wise seems more correct than the other way. They also came assembled as currently installed. However, I still agree with you... visually I was a bit thrown off. If some one knows differently or has a proper installed pic which varies from mine, please.. I'm all ears and eyes. Thanks for chiming in!

I think you need to flip those UCA's so the ball joints are point out like Stack said. They're standard off-the-shelf parts and unfortunately are assembled by the supplier upside down for our application. It's not specifically mentioned in the build manual. But multiple pictures and descriptions show the ball joint installed this way. I haven't used donor spindles since my first build, and these are different UCA's than they were using then. But the manual draws no distinction on how this should be assembled with donor vs. FF spindles. I wouldn't draw any conclusion on how your suspension "looks" until you done an actual alignment, including at ride height which makes a difference. Also wouldn't draw any conclusions on how they were packaged and received, for the reasons noted. You're in good company FWIW. Multiple builds have had the same do-over. If in doubt, suggest you call FF.

But having said that, using the upper "race" mounting holes introduces another variable that I'm not sure about. Curious if FF has really considered the use of those holes with donor spindles. Looks to me that with the LCA basically horizontal (where it usually ends up at ride height) the UCA will be pointed up at a pretty extreme angle. Not sure how this plays with the ball joint angle on the donor spindle adapters.

[TheBabyBadger]

I took into consideration the angles once installed and on the ground. These keeps the LCAs the most flat once installed, assuming they go upward once on the ground.

I know everything except the ball is installed correctly given not only photos, but the control are pitch down and in when flipped. I'm gonna to submit this in Ask a FF Tech and circle back. Thanks for the input. This is why nothing is torqued!

[TheBabyBadger]

So here's most of the resolution:


That picture looks like the lower arm, steering rack, and shock are in the race ride height position, they should be in the lowest set of holes. Then also the upper arm is in the FFR spindle street location and not above the tabs like it should be for a donor spindle. The lower arm should be in the lower set of holes for street ride height, but the upper arm needs to mount on top of the bracket for the SN95 spindles.

Basically when using the SN95 donor spindles, it's not possible to use the upper (making the vehicle lower) ride height holes, and the upper control arm actually goes ABOVE the sandwich tabs it's installed into, which is odd, but correct. So I'll do that and flip the ball joints and should be good to go. I'll post some follow up pictures as well. Thanks for the input. If something about any of isn't clear or you have questions, please ask away and I'll do my best to answer those questions. Here's a link to Jim the FFR tech answering my questions:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29288-Upper-Control-ARMs-on-Gen-3-Type-65-Coupe&p=335221#post335221

[TheBabyBadger]

FYI Tore my right bicep (distal joint tear off the radius) last weekend helping an older gentleman pick his GIANT Victory motorcycle off the ground after he spilled it. Going in for Surgery tomorrow so a SMALL delay in the build. Updates week after next.

[Clover]

Sorry to hear that but it was certainly nice of you to help the guy get his bike back upright. Good luck with surgery. That good mojo should pay off.

[TheBabyBadger]

Sorry to hear that but it was certainly nice of you to help the guy get his bike back upright. Good luck with surgery. That good mojo should pay off.

Thanks! I hope so. Really a bummer. I can't do much without a second hand... and the wife is 8 months preggo... so not much of a garage helper. I'll be back on track soon and make huge leaps and bounds was I'm off on FMLA for my daughter's birth.

[TheBabyBadger]

Okay so I wasn't TOTALLY GONE... but i was definitely slowed down. We welcomed our daughter Aubree on September 21st, 2018 at 844am! AND, for those following along, I was in a brace after surgery till this last Friday, which has been my largest obstacle to date. So in between her sleeping and feeding and going to physical therapy... I was actually able to make some progress. As always, just a quick synopsis of progress and then I'll post the pics and I'm happy to answer questions, but I figure less is more, since you only REALLY want the pictures anyway! Please feel free to fire away if something doesn't look right, looks AWESOME, or you're not sure what it looks like! HA!

I got the suspension sorted with some FFR Tech Support. I got some information related to a Roadster that had me confused. So I'll begin with where I left off and post pictures moving forward in time. All I have left to do with the suspension is bolt wheels on, which I haven't ordered, and torque everything correctly, but it's all mostly tight. Suspension shouldn't be final torqued until it's in its resting position, or it can bind and squeak. I think I'm pretty set on a set of SVE 350s, which are GT350R replicas. Just wider, with the correct offset, but I have my 3-spokes to roll on for now. Tires most likely will be some sticky Dunlops or INVOs. I wont drive it much and prefer she sticks well, so super sticky is fine and tread wear can be down around 100-200.

Motor is prepped and ready to mate to transmission, pedal installed in car, working on brake and clutch pedal assembly this weekend to get installed, steering this weekend, I just need to make a few grinds/notches for steering rack boots not to rub then I can tighten everything down and install wheel and such. Also planning to run my fuel and brake lines this weekend and install regulator. I assembled trunk hinges (after painting), assembled MAF, and probably some other stuff. Lots of small painting projects. Found a *****ING 2 in 1 paint/primer for $1.50/can. It's acrylic, etching, and cheap. From a foot away can't tell I didn't spend a bundle on powder coat. I ordered my heat shielding for the engine bay covers, too. Plan is to stick motor and trans next week and start her up by Sunday eve! WOOT! Anyway, that's all I've got for now. Thanks for tuning in!

Moroso pick up before pan goes on. Mounts installed, had to take them back off to install spacers, oops!

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Compressor installed. Oil pan and new gasket/windage tray installed.

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The A/C Belt probably took me as long as everything else. It was insane. Next photos has my solution. DO NOT order tools to do this, you wont need em. Ask me how I know...

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Believe it or not, if you've tried this, or given up trying this. I stuck a flat head exactly as photo shows, and rotated the crank close wise. I was sure it would rip the belt off, but it didn't. I was shocked. So it's on.

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I went a different route with my pedal. I trimmed it as per instructed, but then notched the bottom and drilled a hole through, then trimmed out some excess and retained the pedal. I LOVE IT. Also, it can be spaced forward to brought in if desired, check out the following pics. The FFR pedal install, honestly, just looked hoaky to me, no offense to those running it. I may try to make the other pedals work, may not. We will see. I love the BOSS/Mustang pedals. Just something different...

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Here you can see the oil pressure sensor, low oil light sensor, water temp sender, and mounts installed correctly. I'll stop here to make a point TO THOSE WAITING ON KIT ARRIVAL: I HIGHLY recommend doing a "decent inventory" when your kit arrives, but do not try to inventory every nut, bolt and item. Lay everything out and check for MAJOR COMPONENTS and CUSTOM PARTS, and such. I know some one will disagree here... but let me explain: I did a CRAZY inventory of EVERY SINGLE BAG and nuts and bolt and piece of hardware when it arrived. All of them. BUT, I've still been to the store a hundred times. FFR does a great job but they're human. I've had the wrong brass fittings, LCA bolts, not enough nuts, been short a shim, wrong thread pitch, bolt too short, stripped bolt, ETC ETC. You will kill yourself counting thousands of parts. SAVE YOUR TIME, and just head to your local hardware store, it's time better spent on the back end. They didn't forget anything I couldn't go down the street to get handled. BUT... that being said... I'm making a list and keeping receipts, but I have a lot of incorrect hardware. Anyway... moving on...

Tried to rotate it, had no luck. It's upside down. Enjoy!

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Oh yeah... and since I was injured, gimpy and bored... This also happened ($10k PLUS back of MSRP/sticker BRAND NEW). Figured I may need a tow vehicle. Or just why not!

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[TheBabyBadger]

So I'm chugging along, just getting as close as I can while waiting for more components to show up. I'll post some pics of the brakes and fuel system when it's done. Steering is in. So are most of the braking components. Need to run lines. Waiting on clutch master. Need to pull body off and insulate the roof and install the headliner then set it aside and turn this thing into a go kart this weekend! Probably not, but goals are good! Couple in process pics:

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AND HERE'S MY QUESTION:

Even at a staggering 5'10" tall... these seats seem too far forward a bit. The corner of the body prevents the seat from going backward any more. Will these feel better once the interior is together, or can I gain some room by trimming the corner of the body shown below? Does the seat "need" to be a certain distance from the cage? Am I being too picky? Would love to see what some of you guys have done, or if I need to just mount them and deal with the confined space. Thanks!

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More to come this weekend! Thanks for any and all insight!

[David Williamson]

If you can move the seat inboard a little it will fit. I ended up triming the body on the left side a bit to fit the seat in. I also got a set of Kirkey seat back mounts, one of my friends found the seat moved when it was only bolted to the floor and it was hitting the roll cage at the back. He actually bent the steel floor pan a little.
David W

[TheBabyBadger]

If you can move the seat inboard a little it will fit. I ended up triming the body on the left side a bit to fit the seat in. I also got a set of Kirkey seat back mounts, one of my friends found the seat moved when it was only bolted to the floor and it was hitting the roll cage at the back. He actually bent the steel floor pan a little.
David W

Thanks for the tip. I'm probably going to do the same. I'll mount them with the body removed and then trim what I need to based on that. I'm going to order those brackets though, I do not want to damage the floor, thanks for the heads up.

[TheBabyBadger]

Making more progress. Main brake lines run. Will post pics and always happy to answer specifics.

Because Paul is a pro, I borrowed his location for the Fuel pressure regulator. Probably going to be tight, but I like the angles. ordered a 45* fitting to keep the hoses a bit more straight.

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Custom made a bracket for the Tilton shorty reservoir. It will handle F/R brakes as well as clutch. Clutch line is black to avoid confusion.

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Bought a nutsert tool. I really like the idea of being able to remove all items. Seems convenient in case I need to work on individual items. Will most likely do the same for the FPR. $60 on Amazon including a bunch of serts. Cant beat it.

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Really happy with the finished product! Clean. Simple. Serviceable. Oh... and painted black.

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Brake lines run along drive side. Self tapped, interlocked tie downs. NO RATTLE and looks clean. Just have to connect filter and lines to feed and return at tank this weekend with body off. Couple shots.

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[TheBabyBadger]

So... not that I need to decide this asap... but I'm playing with the aluminum panels a lot. This is a California, non-coastal car, so while oxidation is normal on aluminum I shouldn't have much and shouldn't have any dull panels for a long time. When I do, cleaning should be simple. I like the PURITY of this car, Coyote aside! I thought about polishing the panels but it's a LOT of work. So I prepped one, cleared one, and left one 100% raw. Not sure which Direction I want to go... decisions decisions... lemme know what you guys think! On track for install of motor this weekend. Hopefully I can hear her run by NEXT weekend. Picked up an investment property and getting keys tomorrow to start demo, so this may once again hit the back burner. We will see. Still making good progress, IMHO.

These are both covers for "strut towers" (the footwell covers) so since they are mirrors I'm practicing on the bottom sides so I can flip them if necessary. Panel on BOTTOM is "brushed" no clear, and on the TOP it's cleared with high temp enamel. It REALLY shows the scratches, but gives it character.

Clear coat is good, but it scratches easily. Aluminum in the area I'm in has almost zero salt exposure and is almost maintenance free.. so less work but also a more pure product. Because after all.... #RACECAR

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Here are three panels. Brushed on left. Cleared in the middle (and underneath). No prep at all on the right. I personally like the brushed looked, but all the panels look awesome. By leaving them untouched, they can be cleaned and textured later very easily as well... so I'm still at a loss.

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[David Williamson]

On my Mkll that I built 14 years ago I mostly just cleaned the aluminum and it all looks good, dull finish. Our climate is quite dry here as well. A few panels I hand polished with Mother's aluminum polish, no clear and they still look good. Remember you will not have access to much of the aluminum after the engine is in place. On my coupe I had all the visible aluminum powder coated, with the big hood more of the engine bay is visible than on a Cobra and the smooth finish of the powder coating is easier to clean especially in the wheel wells. Just what I did.
David W

[Automan]

How did you prep the one on the left? I like the left one better. Been looking at mine too. I think i am gonna leave the dash aluminum also. Alot are painting them black. Still not sure. I used a wool cloth on my dash. It looks ok. Im in Canada so there already has been oxidation in the year that i have been doing my build.

[TheBabyBadger]

On my Mkll that I built 14 years ago I mostly just cleaned the aluminum and it all looks good, dull finish. Our climate is quite dry here as well. A few panels I hand polished with Mother's aluminum polish, no clear and they still look good. Remember you will not have access to much of the aluminum after the engine is in place. On my coupe I had all the visible aluminum powder coated, with the big hood more of the engine bay is visible than on a Cobra and the smooth finish of the powder coating is easier to clean especially in the wheel wells. Just what I did.
David W

Definitely a good point. I will rubberized undercoat all "wheel well" items. Looks clean and dulls the sound of rocks and stuff.



How did you prep the one on the left? I like the left one better. Been looking at mine too. I think i am gonna leave the dash aluminum also. A lot are painting them black. Still not sure. I used a wool cloth on my dash. It looks ok. Im in Canada so there already has been oxidation in the year that i have been doing my build.

The one on the left is just grey scotch bright up and down. Clear coat is okay but I don't like the finish. I may just have them powder coated to a matte or satin finish. The can clear looks like garbage and has orange peel. I don't know. Still up and down.

My dash will be done in leather and trimmed with blue stitching, as well as the aluminum seats redone with suede and trimmed in leather, same blue stitching. I will cover the center console in leather/suede/blue stitching as well. As much as I like the aluminum interior... for resale value it will look much more complete with it covered. and it's not really something that can be done after the fact. I want the inside to look nice. From the bottom up, I have the FFR carpet kit to complete. I may leave the rear aluminum exposed or keep the carpet removable, still unsure.

Thanks for chiming in! Posting more tonight...

[TheBabyBadger]

Well, I installed my brake lines, or most of them. The ones provided don't quite do the trick, so I ran what I could and ordered a flare tool and more line, so I guess it's a completion project for another day. Upside... ran enough lines to install engine and trans! Front done, minus one line into union, and rears ran to the back, clutch will install once in the chassis so my location is nails with panels removed. You get it... Now that the end points are out of my way, I'll remove the body and get this go karting in the next couple days... weeks... months... it'll be somewhere on the road paved in good intentions! Enjoy... Oh and something else showed up...

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I'm actually exhausted... more tomorrow! (messed up huh?)

[TheBabyBadger]

Finally got the lines mostly done. Need to custom route, bend and flare a few today/tonight. Working on getting motor and trans ready to install. Enjoy!

I used the FFR supplied tabs and welded them below my UCA sandwich mount. Keeps them out of the way and secured. Not a large space to get my welder in!

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Same pic, opposite side, same deal.

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Lines installed very cleanly under and across engine bay up to T just above the UCA mount on the drivers side to give me a straight shot back to the master cylinders.

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Still need to cut and flare this line, but it's all in place.

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Nice and tidy. Rear brake line is run out the footwell where two panels meet (which I'll trim and pad) and near the fuel lines, I will secure it and route it when I remove the body, before I install the engine and trans.

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Another shot from the front. Will most likely never see this again, so I'm enjoying showing off the pics!

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AND... on to wheels...

[TheBabyBadger]

So I chose to run the SVE 350s. They're 18x9 and 18X10(.5 actually). Here are some specs on the wheels:

Wheel Specs from Late Model Restoration:

Size: 18x9
Backspace: 5.9"
Offset: +24mm
Weight: 21.77lbs

Size: 18x10
Backspace: 6.3"
Offset: +20mm
Weight: 23.94lbs

Fitment Note
-Will clear big brake packages.
-Spline drive lug nuts are highly recommended for installation.

Nitto NT05 Tires
This kit comes pre-mounted and balanced with Nitto NT05 tires. These tires are a D.O.T. compliant, maximum performance tire that is designed using advanced computer simulation and extensive on-track testing. This Nitto tire provides your Mustang with the increased traction it needs both on, and off the track. The tire comes molded at 7/32 of an inch and features a unique reinforced belt package to provide improved traction and high-speed stability.

Tread wear: 200 - Traction: AA - Temperature: A

Overall I an REALL happy with the selection. They look EVEN BETTER in person. FYI, the set on their site only includes 285s, but they were really easy to work with when I called in and STILL gave me a screaming "package deal" with the modified rears! I went with 295s, but will up those to 305s on the next set. I was worried the sidewall wouldn't look and perform right being so large on a 10" wide rim, but measuring them revealed they are 10.5" actual width and I had some MM left to go. Dang it!

Anyway... the suspension in the rear is on the upper (lowest setting) and you can see I still have a ton of room. The spring is seated, but not lowered or raised, and the car is resting on the rhino ramps. I suspect it will lower and settle a bit with the engine and trans installed and after it's drive, but most of that weight is over the front end, so I'm leaving this as my static "0" for now. I will most likely run .5-1.0" spacers once I get everything dialed, just depends how much the car squats and settles. Obviously the goal here is to get as wide and low as possible without rubbing or affecting driving, to some extent. Here are some quick prelim pics. More to come!

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To give you an idea of the width of these wheels, these are the FRONTS. Lovin' em!

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[P100DHG]

Amazing! Love the wheels.

[TheBabyBadger]

Amazing! Love the wheels.

Much appreciated! Excited to begin your build? You have a good recipe, I subscribed and am looking forward to seeing it get underway! If it helps... I move my wife's Lexus out at night and back in when done working, the space wont be an issue. The rest of the parts can go outside or elsewhere. As parts get installed your free up room QUICKLY! Good luck!

[P100DHG]

I’m very excited! Spoke to Rousch yesterday so got the details sorted out there. That was originally my number one pick. Going with a 427 with Fast EFI should have reliable and consistent performance (hopefully). I’m living vicariously through you guys. When I saw your wheels on your car I got that bug of excitement as if it were mine going on my car. Just having so much fun watching you guys. What I am really learning is a measured pace is necessary not to stall out on these builds. Also when I built my smoker I found continuous engagement with likeminded people helps move the build along. Keep it up and keep us motivated! :D

[TheBabyBadger]

I’m very excited! Spoke to Rousch yesterday so got the details sorted out there. That was originally my number one pick. Going with a 427 with Fast EFI should have reliable and consistent performance (hopefully). I’m living vicariously through you guys. When I saw your wheels on your car I got that bug of excitement as if it were mine going on my car. Just having so much fun watching you guys. What I am really learning is a measured pace is necessary not to stall out on these builds. Also when I built my smoker I found continuous engagement with likeminded people helps move the build along. Keep it up and keep us motivated! :D

Well thanks! I appreciate those kind words... and yes. The deeper I go into the build, the more I realize the goal isn't: "I'm trying to put the motor in this weekend..." But rather: "So in the last few days here's what I've accomplished." Pacing is important, in BOTH directions. Moving forward to prevent stalling, but also not getting too deep and it becoming the chore rather than the hobby.

I LOVE the support and encouragement on this forum, and there always seems to be new blood adding and starting! I'm already looking forward to the release of the new car so I can begin planning my next build! :)

[P100DHG]

Thanks for the insight... My driveway is really wide so pulling out wont be a problem... anyone set at the lower suspension point have any insight? It's not hard to raise later, but I'd prefer to do it once. pictures appreciated!

I have this same question. I intend to do the same race height so post pics when you got them. I think changing the height might mean a weekends worth of work and an alignment too. I live on a hill and a narrow driveway... :confused:

[TheBabyBadger]

OKAY.... so I'm not dead. Work has been nuts, and the new baby honestly doesn't even need to demand my time to have me prioritize her, SHE'S SO CUTE!

So I've got the engine and trans mated! What!?!?! But I have questions. The American Power train slave specified 2 o'clock for the positioning of the slave outlet but the relief in the trans put my in/outlet closer to 4/5 o'clock. Anyone see an issue with this?

Also... per my calculations (but based of a straight edge) I added .054 shim to move the slave close to the clutch fingers for a spacing of .085", but I cannot spin the slave bearing. I feel like I need to remove the shim to increase distance to .140" I feel like the measurement I took is off given it's not freely spinning. I've only got two bolts holding the trans on, so it's an easy enough fix.

Anyway... I'm sure Paul is going to chime in and fix my problems, as always, but all feedback appreciated in advance. Major questions being: 1. should the slave bearing spin freely once trans is mated and 2. does hydro in/out line clocking positions matter?

Thanks in advance. Pics below. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!

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I can almost taste it... by taste it I mean drive it! Happy Holidays!

[edwardb]

Since you called me out :o guess I have to respond. I installed the Tilton HRB, not the American Powertrain version you're using. So my responses need to take that into account. Probably apply to your installation, but I can't be positive. I followed the Tilton instructions exactly and so far it's working OK. But of course not running or driving yet. The Tilton uses a screw-in sleeve for adjustment rather than shims, so right away it's different. Their instructions are .125 clearance with the slave bearing all the way retracted. Once installed, it does push out of course and rests against the clutch pressure plate fingers. Not tight. I can reach in there and turn the bearing, but it does make constant contact. A traditional clutch arm/TOB also makes constant contact, so I don't think that's any different. Assuming yours isn't real tight or applying pressure, I suspect it's OK. As far as clocking the two hoses, I actually didn't use the clutch arm exit point. I exited out one of the slots in the transmission. The second one above the clutch arm exit in your picture #4. That put the hoses almost directly in line with the feed from the master cylinder. For the Tilton, they're interchangeable. One is the feed and the other the bleeder, just depending on orientation. The bleeder is always the one on the top. Looks like that's how yours is.

Couple other comments based on looking at your pictures. Maybe you know this if you're reading my build thread (in other words you have a lot of spare time...). That QuickTime bell housing will extend below the frame rails 1-1/2 inches or so. It's quite a bit. I trimmed mine off. Also looks like you have the TD Motion Coyote lift arms? If so, the LH/front one hits the Gen 3 Coupe frame on that corner when dropping the engine in. It's really close. If you install the arm with less spacers than they provide, e.g. the absolute minimum, it might be OK. But just be warned. Keep some heavy padding in that area and watch it closely. Also maybe you saw that I found the steering column has to be completely removed to fit the Coyote past. Not just swung out of the way.

Good luck! You're making great progress.

[japollon]

I also used the American Powertrain HRB on my 289 FIA build with a 302 and have used one before on my Pantera with a 351 Cleveland motor. The clocking position does not matter all that much with this caveat. The bearing comes pre-bled, however if it loses any fluid during the installation process it is more difficult to re-bleed if the bleed ports are not in the 2 o'clock position. Like you, I mounted mine with the bleeders in the lower position because of how I needed to run the lines out of the bell housing. Bleeding was a pain but if you have a power bleeder you will have no problem. That is what I used and it solved the problem.

Regarding clearance, the bearing should not be tight against the fingers of the pressure plate. Like with Paul's, I believe the installed clearance is about .125". I will check that for sure and write back to you. In any event, it should spin somewhat freely.

I am in Petaluma. Are you close to me?? Joel

[TheBabyBadger]

I also used the American Powertrain HRB on my 289 FIA build with a 302 and have used one before on my Pantera with a 351 Cleveland motor. The clocking position does not matter all that much with this caveat. The bearing comes pre-bled, however if it loses any fluid during the installation process it is more difficult to re-bleed if the bleed ports are not in the 2 o'clock position. Like you, I mounted mine with the bleeders in the lower position because of how I needed to run the lines out of the bell housing. Bleeding was a pain but if you have a power bleeder you will have no problem. That is what I used and it solved the problem.

Regarding clearance, the bearing should not be tight against the fingers of the pressure plate. Like with Paul's, I believe the installed clearance is about .125". I will check that for sure and write back to you. In any event, it should spin somewhat freely.

I am in Petaluma. Are you close to me?? Joel


Thank you, Paul. I appreciate both you guys taking the time to respond, especially with the holidays here. I'll post some follow up pictures, but the Hydromax (American Powertrain's Model Name) also is installed with a sleeve and a centering pin/centering stud installed in the sleeve. I think I measured my clearance wrong wrong and shimmed the wrong direction. So my install is one shim plus the required sleeve. The reason it's clocked more CW rotation is the sleeve doesn't clear the front trans snout as it rotates further CCW. I may just every so slightly trim the sleeve or trans to have them exit properly. In either event, my bearing doesn't rotate so I'm going to remove the shim, so I need to pull the trans either way. No biggie, it's got two bolts in it currently.

Thanks for the heads up on the Coyote lift arms, I would have discovered that during install - TOO LATE! I'll be sure to also remove the steering the column to make life easier, too.

Japollon - I will be using a pneumatic bleeder so bleeding shouldn't be an issue. I work in Napa and live in Vacaville. So yes! You and I are quite close in proximity with respect to the scope of the builds on this forum. Let me know if you'd like to swing by sometime and check progress if you're ever driving through my neck of the woods!

Thanks again... I think that confirms what I assumed anyway. Have a safe and Merry Christmas!

[TheBabyBadger]

Okay... so I'm not dead. No longer in a brace. Baby girl is here and almost 5 months old. Life as usual. A couple things I learned:

1. I thought I knew what "shoe-horning an engine in" was... Now I know.
2. Definitely need to remove the steering assembly
3. Jack the rear end up as high as possible to make installation easier.
4. Keeping the vehicle on rollers up front allow us to shimmy it in.
5. Drive side engine hoist bracket WILL RUB. Remove as many shims as possible.
6. Tape up the frame rails (upper) and have towels GALORE!

Aside from taking our time, this went pretty smoothly. My neighbor, with zero mechanical experience helped. He mostly laid under the car and pulled down on the tail shaft since we couldn't get the rear end up high enough. In hindsight some bigger jack stands would have made the job a lot easier. Enjoy the pictures!

As suggested re-clocked the Hydromax Slave so the entry/exit was correct for the lines:

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Getting ready! My dog ninja'd my photo... haha. "Ms. Piggy" is my shop helper!

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Harnessed and ready:

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Well here we go... (yes, that's the coupe body safely suspended from my roof since I'm out of storage room for now... :)

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Crammed in there!

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So ominous!

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So pertty!

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Tucked away for next step: HEADERS AND WIRING!

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[TheBabyBadger]

I was getting a little antsy and came across stupid good deal on a ***POSSIBLE*** future FFR kit car donor: 2004 Z06 Corvette. :cool: We will see what FFR decides to do with the new kit they're developing/releasing. I'm hoping it is GM based or at least has the option to be, then I don't have to sell this beaut! In the meantime, it'll be a fun weekend whip!

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[P100DHG]

1. I thought I knew what "shoe-horning an engine in" was... Now I know.
2. Definitely need to remove the steering assembly
3. Jack the rear end up as high as possible to make installation easier.
4. Keeping the vehicle on rollers up front allow us to shimmy it in.
5. Drive side engine hoist bracket WILL RUB. Remove as many shims as possible.
6. Tape up the frame rails (upper) and have towels GALORE!




Great Advice. If I recall you did race height my coupe gets delivered this weekend. Tomorrow afternoon or Sunday Morning. How are you feeling about that decision. Speed bumps, parking lots ingress and egresses, etc. Do you have a pic of the stance on the ground?

[freds]

I heated that bracket with an oxy-acetylene torch and bent it, to get clearance., which certainly helped.


Great Advice. If I recall you did race height my coupe gets delivered this weekend. Tomorrow afternoon or Sunday Morning. How are you feeling about that decision. Speed bumps, parking lots ingress and egresses, etc. Do you have a pic of the stance on the ground?

5. Drive side engine hoist bracket WILL RUB. Remove as many shims as possible.

[TheBabyBadger]

Great Advice. If I recall you did race height my coupe gets delivered this weekend. Tomorrow afternoon or Sunday Morning. How are you feeling about that decision. Speed bumps, parking lots ingress and egresses, etc. Do you have a pic of the stance on the ground?

I don't have the vehicle running yet, nor driving obviously... so I can't answer that yet. Per the advice on the forums I raised the vehicle to "STREET HEIGHT" which is still pretty darned low. The main reason for this is the feedback I received was the nose wont open at race heigh without being jacked/raised. This isn't practical for my use of the vehicle, so I went down the safer path. I think it will be plenty low on 18s.

[TheBabyBadger]

"5. Drive side engine hoist bracket WILL RUB. Remove as many shims as possible."

I heated that bracket with an oxy-acetylene torch and bent it, to get clearance., which certainly helped.

Paul caught me before i made it that far, luckily. Thank you, Paul. ;)

[TheBabyBadger]

FYI Added pricing to my parts list, in my original post. I'm noticing a TON of budget builds or those wanting to build with budgets. Check out my parts list and make sure this is for you. It adds up VERY quickly... This doesn't include required tooling, things that didn't work or fit, duplicates, spares, back ups, lol.... etc!

[mswisher]

FYI Added pricing to my parts list, in my original post. I'm noticing a TON of budget builds or those wanting to build with budgets. Check out my parts list and make sure this is for you. It adds up VERY quickly... This doesn't include required tooling, things that didn't work or fit, duplicates, spares, back ups, lol.... etc!

Out of curiosity, how much are you budgeting for paint? Are there any other purchases you haven't made that you expect to make? Just trying to get a feel for a real build estimate.

Matt

[TheBabyBadger]

Out of curiosity, how much are you budgeting for paint? Are there any other purchases you haven't made that you expect to make? Just trying to get a feel for a real build estimate.

Matt

Hey Matt. Good question! I work in Collision (I run a major bay area MSO) so paint will be pretty inexpensive for me. My background is body tech, so I'll do all the body work and trimming and fitting. Raw materials I'm guesstimating to be in the $3k range. A gallon of Rage Extreme Filler, tons of sandpaper, and 3 stage Nitrous Blue. Obviously this is a no labor price.

Also, interior. I ordered some really *****in' vinyl wrap for my dash and some other accent vinyls. Depending how they look I ***MAY*** do the interior myself, otherwise I was quoted $2500, but that included redoing my seats to match as well.

I would say if you can do NONE of the work yourself, interior is a solid $2-3,000 depending on complexity. I'm keeping it simple, like the original car was. Paint I'd budget $7-10K. Easily. There's probably 150-ish hours of REAL TIME in the fitment, prep and actual paint. Clearly I'm a bad thermometer since I'm doing it myself, but that's my 2 cents. I'm sure some one will chime in with their paint receipts.

Also keep in mind... several items in my build are upgrades and not mandatory. A donor car will save tons. I plan to resell the car so everything will need to be tip-top and second to none to fetch a high dollar.

Let me know if you have lingering questions after all that... Good luck!

[mswisher]

Hey Matt. Good question! I work in Collision (I run a major bay area MSO) so paint will be pretty inexpensive for me. My background is body tech, so I'll do all the body work and trimming and fitting. Raw materials I'm guesstimating to be in the $3k range. A gallon of Rage Extreme Filler, tons of sandpaper, and 3 stage Nitrous Blue. Obviously this is a no labor price.

Also, interior. I ordered some really *****in' vinyl wrap for my dash and some other accent vinyls. Depending how they look I ***MAY*** do the interior myself, otherwise I was quoted $2500, but that included redoing my seats to match as well.

I would say if you can do NONE of the work yourself, interior is a solid $2-3,000 depending on complexity. I'm keeping it simple, like the original car was. Paint I'd budget $7-10K. Easily. There's probably 150-ish hours of REAL TIME in the fitment, prep and actual paint. Clearly I'm a bad thermometer since I'm doing it myself, but that's my 2 cents. I'm sure some one will chime in with their paint receipts.

Also keep in mind... several items in my build are upgrades and not mandatory. A donor car will save tons. I plan to resell the car so everything will need to be tip-top and second to none to fetch a high dollar.

Let me know if you have lingering questions after all that... Good luck!

Thanks. I figured about 10k for paint/body work. Good to know my 'swag' of 60-70k for a similar build is close enough to plan to.

P.S. I'm also in NorCal (Pleasanton area), I would be interested to see this when/if your open to visitors.

Matt

[TheBabyBadger]

Thanks. I figured about 10k for paint/body work. Good to know my 'swag' of 60-70k for a similar build is close enough to plan to.

P.S. I'm also in NorCal (Pleasanton area), I would be interested to see this when/if your open to visitors.

Matt

I think that's a safe budget. Keep in mind... the build isn't slow but takes time. If you'd told me my current budget would have been $50k+ up front, I would have done something else or bought a GT350R, lol. But it comes in waves so it's been easy to expand the budget some what slowly. Hopefully you have a good CC that rewards you with lots of miles. :cool:

Always open to making new friends, Matt! I'll shoot you a PM with my number so we can get together. There's a Cars and Coffee the 3rd week of April and I'm hoping to have the car in Go-Kart mode by then so people can check it out! Chat with you soon.

[TheBabyBadger]

So I had a little time this weekend to make some headway and of course I learned a few things!

So originally I assumed the fitting, trimming and body work would be the longest part of this entire process... now I'm looking forward to being MOST at home, because that's my wheel house. I would now say the header installation probably takes the most patience and time, up to this point ( I was kidding about the body work being quicker). My lord... the fit is TIGHT and some bolts have only enough access for 1/8 to 1/8 of a rotation at a time. Get a padded creeper and get comfortable. That said, with them installed, pretty happy about the new look for the kit. It's finally coming together as a Go-Kart!

Advice:


Remove the alternator on the driver's side. Header doesn't fit with it installed. I left one header stud at the back of each head to hang the headers. In hind site, this worked out very well as it allowed me to pivot the front of the header into place and begin inserting header bolts. Take your time. Don't cross thread. Walk away when you get frustrated. You'll most likely want a hand, but even your wife or kids can help here. Often the headers need to be lifted and lowered from the edges of the collector to get the bolt started.

Get a nutsert riveter if you don't have one, it's SO handy. The radiator upper mount is also removable now with the nutserts, just in case it needs to be taken out. Looks clean and makes sense!

Remove interior pieces to install transmission plate. It doesn't slide into place, but it can be slide easily with some interior panels removed.



Hurdles:


Drive line is wrong. The bolt holes aren't large enough to get rear end flange bolt through. Already emailed FFR.

Transmission rubs cross member above the shift. Open to suggestions here. The tunnel is too tight. The mount has two kind of layers but it doesn't seem it'll do it's job if I remove the upper layer. Anyone?



Pics of the install (more to follow tonight):

104874


Placed interior items to confirm everything is in the right place. I'll take some photos of the wedged in trans tonight. More to come soon.


104875

As I sort the hurdles I mentioned I'll be installing the battery and tray, though I haven't decided on a final resting place for it. I will most likely install as FFR recommends and add some leads for a jump start some where accessible but hidden. I'd like to get the car fired this month, so next steps are to finish cooling system, intake, brake lines (and bleed), clutch (and bleed) and gauges installed. Once that's done and I hear her purr, I can begin running my heater items, plumbing AC, running body harness, etc. Then it's onto body!

[Logan]

If you haven't seen the other thread about T56 Magnum transmission fitment in a Gen 3 Coupe, the findings are thus: the FFR manual shows the trans mount adapter steel plate going on top of the frame mount points, but for the T56M it should go BELOW them to gain the needed clearance for the larger-than-TKO-sized T56M transmission. It will lower the transmission enough to make it clear. If you run IRS out back, it will not have any negative impact on your pinion angles in the driveshaft to the rear end.

EdwardB can confirm with photos/personal experience on the T56 in Gen 3 Coupe fitment.... I'm just studying for my own build and have well organized notes on the subject ;)

[TheBabyBadger]

If you haven't seen the other thread about T56 Magnum transmission fitment in a Gen 3 Coupe, the findings are thus: the FFR manual shows the trans mount adapter steel plate going on top of the frame mount points, but for the T56M it should go BELOW them to gain the needed clearance for the larger-than-TKO-sized T56M transmission. It will lower the transmission enough to make it clear. If you run IRS out back, it will not have any negative impact on your pinion angles in the driveshaft to the rear end.

EdwardB can confirm with photos/personal experience on the T56 in Gen 3 Coupe fitment.... I'm just studying for my own build and have well organized notes on the subject ;)

That was going to be my solution if there wasn't one. I'm surprised I haven't caught that yet as I read up pretty often. Easy fix... Thanks Logan!

[TheBabyBadger]

It's definitely with a heavy heart I write this post. Unfortunately, life kind of handed me a large deck of cards this last year. Surgery. My daughter's birth. My oldest daughter's diminished mental health. It's been a lot. My OCD also doesn't allow me to tear through the task very quickly as I modify and replace and change out kit parts...

SO, I made the very decision to sell it. A retired gentleman in the Sacramento Area picked it up on Sunday and has the time and means to complete it. I'll try to post pictures when he does so as we plan to keep in pretty close touch! That way this thread wasn't a complete waste of time.

I appreciate all those who tuned in... Thank you everyone for your input, help and general cordial demeanor during my short time here. It really was fun and has been a pleasure.

God Bless, all!

[q4stix]

Oh man, sorry to hear about all the things going on leading up to the decision! Now that you have a taste of the build, maybe we'll see another one in progress from you when life settles down :)

[TheBabyBadger]

I'm DEFINITELY not saying goodbye... just see you later.

:)

[edwardb]

Totally understandable. As life priorities go, this is a low one. It's cool you can follow your build. Goes without saying we get emotionally invested in these things. My #7750 Roadster build had a similar situation. I bought it from a guy that didn't want to see it go, but didn't have a choice. He really appreciated that I stayed in touch and sent pictures of the completed build.

[TheBabyBadger]

Totally understandable. As life priorities go, this is a low one. It's cool you can follow your build. Goes without saying we get emotionally invested in these things. My #7750 Roadster build had a similar situation. I bought it from a guy that didn't want to see it go, but didn't have a choice. He really appreciated that I stayed in touch and sent pictures of the completed build.

Agreed. I'm really looking forward to seeing it all done. It was hard packing it up yesterday... :(

[P100DHG]

I’m very sorry about your situation. Sending well wishes and good thoughts. If you are ever in SoCal and need a fix, PM me, you’re welcome in my garage any day.

[TheBabyBadger]

I’m very sorry about your situation. Sending well wishes and good thoughts. If you are ever in SoCal and need a fix, PM me, you’re welcome in my garage any day.

Thank you sir! Much appreciated!

[California Rookie]

It's a relatively new feature from Factory Five. Not sure how many finished builds there will be.. Is there any way to motivate someone who knows what they’re doing to cruz out to Santa Cruz County, possibly?? I’m Building the daytona coupe and stalled out at electrical. I planned on the 302 with a tkx but Covid changed my plans…I changed my driveline to a 1994 mustang cobra and tremec t5 craigslist special. Mostly everything else is fished: IRS, brakes, gas tank, front suspension, panels that should be there, and she’s sitting on the ground. With a set of wheels and tires, begging to contour hwy 1.

Let me know, I’d like to share notes with a buddy or graciously ask for some guidance .

[edwardb]

. Is there any way to motivate someone who knows what they’re doing to cruz out to Santa Cruz County, possibly?? I’m Building the daytona coupe and stalled out at electrical. I planned on the 302 with a tkx but Covid changed my plans…I changed my driveline to a 1994 mustang cobra and tremec t5 craigslist special. Mostly everything else is fished: IRS, brakes, gas tank, front suspension, panels that should be there, and she’s sitting on the ground. With a set of wheels and tires, begging to contour hwy 1.

Let me know, I’d like to share notes with a buddy or graciously ask for some guidance .

You included a quote from me that was 5+ years old and was about chassis height. Not sure what it has to do with your problem statement.

Sorry to hear your build is stalled. You'd be better off starting a new thread with your situation. Rather than going off topic with an old thread. There are options for getting help.