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samann
02-08-2018, 07:34 AM
Did a search but could not find...
I am thinking of installing the "old school" oil cooler in the conventional lower nose opening.
Not being familiar with the Coyote (post '15); is there a special adapter that will need to mount to the engine or is it the same universal type after you remove the factory base cooler? Also, any special thermostats or sensors involved?
I know it would be easier to remove the factory block attached cooler and spin the filter back on the block but, I really like the look of the original placement of the oil cooler in the nose.
Also, is it necessary to utilize a remote oil filter or is there a base plate that you can mount to the block that will allow you to plumb to the cooler instead of a remote filter?
Thanks in advance.
Scott

Jdav
02-08-2018, 08:02 AM
I dont know the answers to your questions, but if it's just the look you are after, you could mount a power steering cooler in that spot (if you are running PS).

Straversi
02-08-2018, 09:59 AM
Modular Motorsport Racing in Camarillo, CA sells a Coyote block adapter and oil filter relocation kit , part #403335 for $259. It comes with -10 AN fittings and hose. They have another kit for $400 that includes a cooler but the cooler is not the correct size. If you call them I'm sure they can get you the correct size and shape.

I bought the oil cooler kit from FFR before I did any research. It comes with rubber hose and some fittings. I tossed everything but the cooler. You can buy the cooler by itself anywhere.

You remove the Coyote oil filter adapter and replace with the MMR block adapter. Route the hose out of the motor, into the filter, out of the filter, into the cooler, out of the cooler and back to the block. You will relocate your oil pressure sensor from the original Coyote filter adapter to the MMR adapter. It's a different shape so you need to add a 45 or 90 degree fitting so the oil pressure sensor does not interfere with your water temp sensor.

The hose routing takes a little planning. I have a trunk mount battery. If you have your battery in the front you might need to route the hose differently from mine. There are a few photos in my build thread but its a hard area to photograph so I apologize in advance.

It works and I'm happy with it but just giving you a heads up that because the Coyote is so big there is very little unused space. Every modification seems to encroach on the space of three other systems.
-Steve

wareaglescott
02-08-2018, 10:35 AM
I can’t remember the specifics but about 6 months ago on the other forum a guy did massive damage to his motor and it had something to do with how he hooked up some lines to his coyote and I believe a remote filter. Not saying that is related to your question but go over to that forum and look in the coyote section and you should be able to find it. Not a ton of traffic in that section so it should not be hard to find. It had something to do with the adapter piece he used not lining up properly. Worth reading if you are doing anything non standard with the oil system.

edwardb
02-08-2018, 10:55 AM
X2 on Scott's warning about making sure you have the right oil filter adapter. There is a difference between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyotes in this area, and using the wrong part will cause oil starvation and we all know what happens next. This is the thread where it was described and lots of details including the right and wrong parts to use: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/597354-coyote-first-start-potentially-siezed.html.

Also, just an aside comment, for regular even aggressive street driving, the Coyote is a very cool running engine. It doesn't need the oil cooler in the nose. In fact, could make it run a little cool which isn't necessarily desirable. Maybe think about doing a power steering cooler instead? Or maybe just a dummy cooler and save all the adapters and lines. Sorry if that's sacrilegious. Just saying.

scottamann
02-08-2018, 03:24 PM
Thanks guys.
I appreciate the experience and knowledge on this forum.
Scott

scottamann
02-08-2018, 04:06 PM
Wow.
After reading that article on the other forum; I am thinking that I will keep it as simple as I can. I might place a dummy cooler and a couple of lines in the lower nose for looks only.
That was a painful read...

Gromit
02-08-2018, 04:31 PM
Oil "Fooler" mount the cooler, run some dummy lines and call it done. why risk a perfectly good engine that really doesn't need an oil cooler? with the risk of any one of those fittings, hoses or cooler failing and the resultant engine failure... even a rock getting thrown into the cooler. why. I get it you want the "look" my $.02 make it fake. unless you are going full dry sump for racing its just added complication for looks.

Chris AKA Gromit

Race Ratz
02-08-2018, 11:56 PM
Oil cooler was disconnected on my car. Coyote ran too cool. Looks only now.

Dave Howard
02-09-2018, 01:58 AM
I too installed the oil cooler kit from FFR but never connected it. The original intent was for the looks only. The Stainless hoses are run back along the drivers frame rail out of sight.

As for reports of damage from hooking up a remote filter, if you install the hoses incorrectly, the oil will be pumped backwards through the filter. Won't work and you wind up starving the engine of oil. Need I say more?

samann
02-09-2018, 07:02 AM
Thanks again for the input.

mike forte
02-09-2018, 08:19 PM
Hi Guys,
I sell a remote oil filter & Earls oil cooler. I'll model it on a Coyote next week and post photos.

initiator
02-12-2018, 03:39 PM
Oil "Fooler" mount the cooler, run some dummy lines and call it done.

Chris AKA Gromit

Thanks, Gromit - lost some coffee through my nose on this one.

Gromit
02-12-2018, 06:14 PM
Thanks, Gromit - lost some coffee through my nose on this one.

I stole that from someone I forget who. but to continue on the theme, someone standing in front of the car asks..... is it real? Answ: No the oil cooler is fake.

Gromit.