MK-4 Door Mechanism >> Mounting The Hardware Question

[GoDadGo]

Hey Gang,

Have any of you used Rivet-Nuts to mount your door latching hardware?
I'm a big fan of my Thread-Setter and not so much a fan of Self-Tapping screws.

Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

Not done it with riv-nuts but as a body guy I suggest waiting to install the door latches until the actual body fitting is being done. The indents that are on the door are not necessarily in the proper location.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Not done it with riv-nuts but as a body guy I suggest waiting to install the door latches until the actual body fitting is being done. The indents that are on the door are not necessarily in the proper location.

Jeff

Jeff,

Give me a call.
I just sent you a PM.

Steve

[i.e.427]

I suggest waiting to install the door latches until the actual body fitting is being done. The indents that are on the door are not necessarily in the proper location.

Jeff

X2 what Jeff said.

[edwardb]

I use rivnuts for the door latches because I'm also not a fan of self-tapping screws. Especially for something that important. X3 on waiting until body fitting. Not only are the dimples likely not exactly right, I've had a couple that one or more screws missed the metal plate underneath. Not that's a pain.

[michael everson]

I'm with Edward. Some of the screws don even hit the plate. If you drill for a rivnut and hit half the plate then your really screwed. Just use the supplied hardware.
Mike

[GoDadGo]

I forgot to mention that the body is on the car and properly attached including Three Allen Head Button Bolts under each door.
It has been that way ever since the block sprung the two leaks so I was hoping to knock out the latches since the body is where it meant to be.
You can eyeball the car in the attached video:

https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk

NOTE: The door gaps were clearanced just enough so that they open properly with NO rubbing

[JRL16]

Rivnuts here but some of them barely hit the metal. I tried to move the striker a little to help the rivnuts hit metal. Didn’t move much but it wound up being just enough. Good luck

[boat737]

No hesitation, rivnuts for sure. There is definitely some engineering to do though. The one hole does not line up with the metal under plate, at least it didn't on mine. To fix that I cut and bent up a Stainless Steel Adhesive-Mount Nut https://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=1bemvyy to bond on the inside of the door. I used a long set screw to hold it in place while the HSRF set up. My plan was to remove the set screw after it was bonded into place, which worked on one door, but the other door some HSRF seeped onto the set screw and it got stuck. So I just left it and used it as a stud instead of a nut. In after thought, I could have just used the Stainless Steel Adhesive-Mount studs instead, but it all worked out.

[GoDadGo]

Thank You All, Especially The Pics From Boat737!

Getting this project going again after the leaky block debacle (September 2017) has admittedly put a bit of a dark cloud over this project.

So glad to get moving again and can't wait for that 2nd 1st Start & Drive!

Thanks Again!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Great talking with you yesterday Steve! Good luck moving forward :cool:

Jeff

[boat737]

Hi Steve. Yeah, been following your frustrations with the motor, and it sucks. Pretty safe to say though that all of us stumble into a hole or run into a wall at some point into our builds, but I think yours has to take the cake for one of the biggest glitches. But it will be overcome and you'll do it. How's that saying, "...Like a Rock!"

As for the doors, I think you're already there, but make sure the body, and the doors, are all lined up and set before you drill the holes for the latch. Not a whole lot of adjustment after that latch is bolted to the door.