#438 Build summary

[tcollins]

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The following is a build summary of my Factory Five 33 Hot Rod (#438). Its been nearly 6 years since I started and next month it will make its debut at the 2018 Detroit Autorama. What I’ve enjoyed most about building my first kit car, is the ability to start and stop as needed without significant impact on the knowledge required or quality. Between the forums and tech help at Factory Five and other suppliers, you always resources for assistance and ideas.

The next best thing about this project is the flexibility to make it unique. I once read, Harley Davison’s company product is not motorcycles, but rather “image”. Likewise I believe Factory Five’s product is not kit cars, but rather “confidence”. Building a custom car, that is safe, reliable, performs well and looks good is not something the average “Do-It-Yourselfer” will likely be successful completing on their own. But Factory Five makes that possible by providing a solid foundation and basic solutions for all needed functions. With that, the average handy-man is only limited by their creativity and desire to learn new skills. Anyone with excessive financial resources can have a sweet hot rod, but Factory Five affords those with more humble means the confidence and ability to also have one.

With that said, I would like to share some the custom or unique features of my build. I am not and never have been a professional mechanic, auto body guy, welder or any other skilled trade. I do work in the automotive industry on the product development side in Detroit, so I am blessed with many friends and resources for help and advice. But 98% of this build I did on my own.

[RoadRacer]

I hope more is coming, because that looks AWESOME! So many one-off details. Those rears..

[TDSapp]

That looks great... What rear are you running under the back end and what offset are your tires? I love the dished look you have there.

[tcollins]

1 Power Window Frame

Not the most aesthetical upgrade I made, but by far the most popular among other builders. Many of you have seen this as I shared the drawings, BOM and cad model with over 40 people on the FFCars forum.

When I went to install my power windows, I ran into many of the same problems as others; the felt supplied with the kit did not work, the double wall fiberglass on the door top was separated and flimsy, etc. I found many improvements on the forum, however none of them seemed to meet the look and robustness that I was seeking. So I came up with this. I haven’t found anyone else with this solution, so thought I would share because it worked out very well. The idea was to make a lightweight aluminum frame that connects to the steel door structure. I was really surprised at how economical and simple this was to make…all materials can be found at McMaster Carr or your local hardware. If anyone is interested, I created a cad drawing which includes a door top template and complete bill of material.

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[tcollins]

Sub Woofer Boxes

One of the most important features to me for this car, was to have a high quality audio system. I have a 69 Camaro convertible with an LS1 and can barely hear the radio while cruising on the highway with the top down. And there is no bass, due to speaker limitations.

For my FFR33 I wanted both high quality sound and ample bass. Working with a local shop, together we designed a system. At first we tried to stuff two 13” sub woofers in the trunk but could not get the 21L of volume necessary for each speaker. Also there was some concern with sound quality since the trunk in the 33 is separated by the gas tank. So we opted for two 8” sub woofers directly behind each seat. The enclosures are made from aluminum due to the complexity and to get the needed 9L of volume. The aluminum boxes are dimpled, sealed and fully covered with Dynomat extreme. Combined with the carbon mid range & tweeters in the doors, the 2000 watt amp in the trunk, and the Sony digital receiver, the sound quality is amazing…very happy with the results.
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[tcollins]

The rear wheels are 20 x 12 with 5" backspacing. The rearend is out of a 1994 Mustang Cobra.80140

[tcollins]

Rear Frame section

I designed, fabricated and added a rear frame section primarily so I could add a robust trailer hitch. My wife and I plan to drive this car on long trips, such as the Hot Rod Power Tour. Since the trunk space is limited we plan to buy a small trailer for luggage and such. An added benefit is a the safety of steel rear bumper connected to the chassis, so when someone ***-packs me on Woodward, the body may not be a total loss! If you have any suggestions for a small, well built and functional trailer, please suggest, thanks!
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[tcollins]

Infinity Box Wiring

If you despise electrical work like I, you need this upgrade! When I installed the LS1 in my 69 Camaro, I ran into so many electrical problems due to integrating a late model engine with old school chassis harness. After burning up a couple alternators and crank triggers, I had to pay someone to fix it. The end result with my Camaro is less than impressive…wires everywhere, looks like a rats nest under the dash.
When I discovered there was a third party, (formally called ISIS) that not only offered a high tech Can-bus chassis harness system but had custom tailored it to the Factory Five 33 Hot Rod, I didn’t hesitate to upgrade. In addition they offered a supplement to wire in the Coyote crate motor. My system also has security and battery voltage monitoring, which is ideal for a vehicle that can sit for long periods.
Everything electrical works fine and the overall system turned out awesome with my build. But the best thing about Infinity Box is their customer service! Every time I had a question, Jay Harris was prompt to contact me and help out. Best experience I’m ever had with an aftermarket components supplier. Anything I build in the future will definitely use this system…worth every penny.
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[tcollins]

Hand Made Aluminum Console

The primary reason I did not use the FFR fiberglass tunnel was due to foot space and the fact that it appears to have been designed to also accommodate the larger automatic transmissions. I’m using the Coyote engine and wasn’t comfortable hacking up the ETC pedal. Also I’m a bigger guy and my feet were very cramped with the addition of a clutch pedal needed for the Tremec 5sp. This aluminum tunnel allowed an extra 2-3” per side, provide storage space, audio receiver mount and cup holders. The brushed aluminum and exposed rivets fit well with my upscale “rat rod” theme. Currently I'm finishing it up for Autorama, by added LED light panels and applying the brushed antique look.
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[erlihemi]

Nice work on everything! Thanks for sharing it over on this forum. I think BeBops and some others have 30 era's style trailers that look good behind the 33.

[tcollins]

Radiator Hose Routing

I wasn’t comfortable with the manual's suggestion for routing the radiator hose. With this Coyote engine, it seemed to be the low point under the front area of the car. Also I was planning to relocate my oil filter in the area behind the steering rack.
So I came up with this idea. I cut the cross brace and welded in a steel loop. The images show the improved routing and finished clearances.

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[RoadRacer]

This is gold, I haven't seen any of this before! Beautiful work.

[tcollins]

Dual Roll Bars

When I received my kit, I was very disappointed that FFR had changed the original dual roll to a single loop. I believe I understand why they did it, but in opinion what they now offer is the most awful, unstylish and hideous component on this model. I’m sorry if I offend you, but I can't lie. I throw up in my mouth every time I see a finish hot rod without a top that uses this thing. I ruins the look of an otherwise beautiful car.
My solution was to design and fabricate a bolt-in dual roll bar set up. This allows me to both get the tank out if ever needed and easily assemble the waterfall panel. It works with the hardtop and mounts high on the original brackets. I have a cad design, BOM and willing to share with anyone interested, just send me a PM.
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[tcollins]

Custom Exhaust with Cutouts

Originally I had planned to use the stainless exhaust that came with the kit, but there was 3 things I didn’t like. First, I discovered the same issue as others…something was wrong with the FFR mufflers. They looked nice, but every time I started the car, it blew sound deadener material all over my garage. Also I didn’t want to cut a hole in the body for the tip exit and this Coyote engine was simply too quiet. Quiet is good when you at a drive thru window, or cruising with your wife, but not when you're doing a burnout for your buddies!
So my solution was a custom made exhaust with QTP stainless cutouts, and hand made, low profile tips. The mufflers were upgraded to Magna Flow and I added band clamp style hangers made by Stainless Works.

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[tcollins]

Battery Box

The higher output battery I chose to use didn’t fit in area that Factory Five had intended. So I designed and fabricated a new box that attached lower and to the right side as shown. It pivots about a couple stainless shoulder bolts for easy access and removal. Not shown here is a plastic cover I’m currently adding to mitigate any water or road debris.

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[BigB]

Is the exhasut 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch? thanks

[NAZ]

I really like that you're customizing your build to make it just like you want. Hot rodding is all about making one-off designs and improving on what has come before. It's a lot of work and $$ but when it's done it will be like no other.

[Svtfreak]

Where did you get your receivers for your hood pins on the firewall?

[tcollins]

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Where did you get your receivers for your hood pins on the firewall?

I made them. Here is a drawing There are (3) #8-32 screws from the inside.

[tcollins]

Is the exhasut 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch? thanks

2 1/4". I cut up the original pieces that came with the kit. Then I tacked them together in the car, and removed for finished welding. Sounds great, love the cut-outs...highly recommended if you want your car to be loud and obnoxious on demand!

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[Svtfreak]

8036280363

I made them. Here is a drawing There are (3) #8-32 screws from the inside.


Thank you very much!

[CVOBill]

TCollins, those are some really cool mods. I was on the fence about driving up to the Autorama, but you made it an easy decision.

[TxMike64]

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Did you recover the upholstery? And the steering wheel matches too! How did you do that?

[tcollins]

Did you recover the upholstery? And the steering wheel matches too! How did you do that?

No. The upholstery upgrade is literally the only part of my build that I didn't have any hand in. Paul's Auto Interiors in Pontiac, Michigan recovered the seats, steering wheel, top boot. The same leather was used to make custom head rests, arm rests, shifter and e-brake boots.

[tcollins]

Louvers

I’m showing this as something I did, however I can’t recommend it. Turned out to be way too much work and I question the robustness of the interface joint long term. I really wanted and like the look of louvers, but if I was something I had to do it again, I would just rivet the panel on and leave the exposed rivets shown, which matches my overall theme anyway.
But if your curious how this was done, first I purchase the aluminum panels from Runcool. I recessed flanged the edges after relieving the corners. Next I laid out the side panels and cut the fiberglass. Then where the flange is, I routed the fiberglass on the outside so the louvers would appear flush. The aluminum was then epoxied and riveted to the glass. Finally I filled both side with Duraglas and complete smoothed out the inside of the panel with lightweight filler.

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[tcollins]

Did you recover the upholstery? And the steering wheel matches too! How did you do that?

The steering wheel is easy to recover...the ring unbolts from the backside.

[tcollins]

Interior Lighting

I’m using the GM style door jamb switch for my interior lighting and couldn’t find any good examples of how others mounted. So I’m sharing this because it seems to work well, it’s hidden and very easy to make.

The switch is mounted to a piece of aluminum angle which is then attached to the unused hole in the door hinge bracket. The LED light strip is stuck to the backside of the panels I riveted to the console.

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[CVOBill]

That's a great idea for the door jam switch, I have two coming for my car now. Thanks

[tcollins]

Finished Trunk

The audio system amplifier and cross-overs are mounting in the trunk. I decided to cover them due to all the wires. The shelf panel bolts in and out. The side panels and the center trailer hitch beam cover help hold in the upholstered lower portion. I also made rubber grommet panels around the hinges to make the large opening appear more finished. A prop rod plate was made and placed in the center so the deck lid isn’t twisted when opened.


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[tcollins]

Coyote Alternator Position and Belt Routing

I didn’t care much for Factory Five’s suggestion for how to mount the Coyote alternator. The primary reason is that I thought it looked like an after thought and was aesthetically unpleasing for a car that can have an exposed engine. Also it wouldn’t allow for the dual induction system that I was planning. I live in Michigan and so A/C is not a must, therefore the decision was easy; use a higher output Ford Racing alternator in the compressor position. The drawing and pictures below describe how I made the bracket and the final result.

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[tcollins]

Dual Induction System

Only the LH side is functional due to the MAF sensor requirements. The right side was initially made into my coolant system expansion tank. But I had to abandoned that set-up after I experienced some problems. Not sure what the actual root cause was , but I seem to have it corrected now after learning more about the Mustang cooling system. Also It probably wasn’t the brightest idea to connect the hot coolant to my induction system with an aluminum tube! There very limited space in this car for a proper expansion tank! Here is what I learned:
The Coyote coolant system uses a check valve between the radiator and the expansion tank. The flow is in the direction of the tank so liquid cannot return to the radiator. It is returned per the diagram below. I used a stock Mustang hose which comes with the valve inside. P/N BR3Z-8075-B
The reservoir that comes with the FFR kit is too small! I measured it at 17-18oz, this engine / system should have 24-32oz, according to what I read? The tank shown below is 36oz.
I initially didn’t have the tank above the radiator which is almost impossible in this car. I’m not sure if that caused my hoses to blow off, but I was able to mount my new tank in such a way that allow for at least some of the volume above the radiator. I used the same, non vented cap as came with the FFR kit.

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[tcollins]

Coyote Heater Coolant Supply & Return

Does anyone know if that 5/16 dia. heater circuit flow connector that is specified in Coyote coolant system diagram is only for filling and purging? Or must it be there to connect the heads when the heater is off?

Background: I plumbed my heater circuit per the instructions, but couldn’t get the heater to work until I plugged the “H” connector. The Vintage Air heater control valve I have is either open or closed when the car is on and the heater is off. So per the Coyote instructions, you need the heater supply and return ports to be connected to purge air from the RH head. So I designed this aluminum block with the 5/16 cross hole but when it was opened, no coolant was getting to the heater. The system was filled and vacuum purged, so it wasn’t an air trap.

Should I buy this upgraded Thermotion heater control valve that FFR seems to now be using?

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[tcollins]

Remote Oil Filter Mount

I’m using the Unisteer electric power steering unit so I opted for a remote oil filter mount due to clearance. I purchased the Ford Racing Performance remote oil filter adapter and the Canton remote oil filter mount. Both very nice, well engineered pieces, which include ports for the engine harness sensor and my oil pressure gage.
I mounted the remote filter in the center of the car under the steering rack which allows for good access to the filter and keeps the lines relatively short. I welded in a piece of flat bar stock which was drilled and tapped but something similar could be fabricated if your frame is already powder coated.

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[AJT '33]

[QUOTE=tcollins;319101]Dual Induction System

Only the LH side is functional due to the MAF sensor requirements. The right side was initially made into my coolant system expansion tank. But I had to abandoned that set-up after I experienced some problems. Not sure what the actual root cause was , but I seem to have it corrected now after learning more about the Mustang cooling system. Also It probably wasn’t the brightest idea to connect the hot coolant to my induction system with an aluminum tube! There very limited space in this car for a proper expansion tank! Here is what I learned:
The Coyote coolant system uses a check valve between the radiator and the expansion tank. The flow is in the direction of the tank so liquid cannot return to the radiator. It is returned per the diagram below. I used a stock Mustang hose which comes with the valve inside. P/N BR3Z-8075-B
The reservoir that comes with the FFR kit is too small! I measured it at 17-18oz, this engine / system should have 24-32oz, according to what I read? The tank shown below is 36oz.
I initially didn’t have the tank above the radiator which is almost impossible in this car. I’m not sure if that caused my hoses to blow off, but I was able to mount my new tank in such a way that allow for at least some of the volume above the radiator. I used the same, non vented cap as came with the FFR kit.

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Tom, my son noticed that the diagram you are showing is a closed pressured system with an expansion tank that can draw back coolant through the engine mounted valve which is different than the pressure relief system that the hot rod is setup as with the overflow tank. As our radiator has a cap with a pressure relief valve the flow within the system will not work in the same manner especially with a lot of the ports closed off or re-routed. You may want to look at how the system functions due this primary difference, this may be part of your root issue, as well the crossover tube is larger on the Vintage system (part# 344470)than you have on your crossover block. Just trying to look at it from how I am setting it up and what i have on hand, I have yet to test it, but my son as a mechanic is telling me this is the big difference.
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[tcollins]

Steering limiters and Bellows Replacement

My front wheels hit the upper control arm when full turned. So I needed steering rack limiters. These seemed relatively simple pieces, so I made my own. Bought 1 3/8” diameter nylon from McMaster Carr ($10), then drilled 31/32 diameter hole in the center on the lathe and cut several pieces into 1/8” increments.

My steering rack bellows had dry rotted by the time I got the car on the road. I replaced with the Dorman P/N 614-020. These fit and work great…highly recommend if needed.

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[hutchjc1]

Outstanding build ! Very creative and well done, you should be very proud. The interior to me is perfect and the many subtle and not so subtle touches really set this above and beyond what I could have envisioned. By far my favorite build, my car is very nice but to say I am jealous is an understatement.
Jim

[tcollins]

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[tcollins]

Radiator Fan Shroud

Not an original idea…learned from others on the forum. Easy to make seems to work well.

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[tcollins]

Coyote ECU under-dash

Don’t think it’s a good idea to mount the ECU under the oil pan where it would be exposed to the element and road debris. There is enough slack in the stock harness to mount it under the dash, however you need to make a custom bulkhead grommet large enough for the connector.

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[BigB]

What material did you use to build and mount your electronic stuff?

[BigB]

Is it some sort of plastic board? Where could one aquire something like that?

[TxMike64]

Looks like HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene) or Delrin (acetal) sheet. These are both non-hygroscopic meaning they won't absorb moisture. Beware of ABS sheet or any recycled PE (polyethylene) or PP (polypropylene) as these are hygroscopic and will absorb moisture, swell, and warp (could cause corrosion issues).

I buy HDPE, Delrin, and PP sheet from McMaster and a local plastics supply company. At work we use a lot of 1/2" HDPE (lots of colors) and 1" to 2" Delrin (white and black).

[Bgardner]

1 Power Window Frame

Not the most aesthetical upgrade I made, but by far the most popular among other builders. Many of you have seen this as I shared the drawings, BOM and cad model with over 40 people on the FFCars forum.

When I went to install my power windows, I ran into many of the same problems as others; the felt supplied with the kit did not work, the double wall fiberglass on the door top was separated and flimsy, etc. I found many improvements on the forum, however none of them seemed to meet the look and robustness that I was seeking. So I came up with this. I haven’t found anyone else with this solution, so thought I would share because it worked out very well. The idea was to make a lightweight aluminum frame that connects to the steel door structure. I was really surprised at how economical and simple this was to make…all materials can be found at McMaster Carr or your local hardware. If anyone is interested, I created a cad drawing which includes a door top template and complete bill of material.

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Tim

Can you send a drawing of what yu did for the window frame, I sazved the image but cannot make out the details once I zoom in.

Thanks Bob

[Bgardner]

Also will mention very impressed with complete build, love all the details and respect all the thinking that went into your project.

[Roger Pugh]

TCollins,
I love the work. I sent an email a week or so ago, as I was interested in talking about some of your designs. Are you available for a discussion?
Roger

[Roger Pugh]

Sub Woofer Boxes

One of the most important features to me for this car, was to have a high quality audio system. I have a 69 Camaro convertible with an LS1 and can barely hear the radio while cruising on the highway with the top down. And there is no bass, due to speaker limitations.

For my FFR33 I wanted both high quality sound and ample bass. Working with a local shop, together we designed a system. At first we tried to stuff two 13” sub woofers in the trunk but could not get the 21L of volume necessary for each speaker. Also there was some concern with sound quality since the trunk in the 33 is separated by the gas tank. So we opted for two 8” sub woofers directly behind each seat. The enclosures are made from aluminum due to the complexity and to get the needed 9L of volume. The aluminum boxes are dimpled, sealed and fully covered with Dynomat extreme. Combined with the carbon mid range & tweeters in the doors, the 2000 watt amp in the trunk, and the Sony digital receiver, the sound quality is amazing…very happy with the results.
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Would you mind sharing which 8" subs you went with? Brand?
Thanks,
Roger

[progmgr1]

FWIW, I'm using 2 - 8" Polk MM-842-DVC Marine (waterproof) subs - just in case water gets inside the cabin. Keith HR #894