Clutch cable concern

[Al_C]

I'm starting a separate thread on this topic because I don't want to hijack Bruuce's graduation thread. You can find that one here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27240-Graduation-of-8145-Thanks-to-Frank-I-E-427. Bruuce - you've got a great build there! Congratulations!

On to my particular question: The above referenced car (and thread) started life with a Coyote, J-pipes and a cable clutch. I have, as some of you are painfully aware, the same configuration. Bruuce and Frank solved the problem by ditching the standard headers and J-pipes; I'm hoping I don't need to take that route. I have yet to start my car, and I think I have a decent routing for the cable, but it would probably be better to get advice/opinion from others who have experience now before I have the same problem! I'm planning to attach the clutch cable bracket to the block using one of the lift point holes (it's rather large, but it is conveniently located). That should keep it out of the way, or at least I think it will. Whatcha think? Any advice on routing?

[Bruuce]

To clarify our cable melting issue, here's my original routing:
https://i.imgur.com/VT3hkyb.jpg

The cable was routed within an inch of the j-pipes. As long as you're able to find more clearance (e.g. with a bracket) I don't think 4 into 4s will be necessary.

[Jazzman]

Why not change to a hydraulically activated clutch and route the line inside the footbox to keep it entirely away from the headers? Just a thought.

[Dave Howard]

Being one of the early Coyote installers in 2012, I had the same problem with clutch cable routing and trying to stay away from the FFR header/J pipe arrangement. My solution was the 4x1x4 Stainless Header route. You won't be disappointed. They flow/perform better and look amaizing (for what you can see of them).