LS3 accessory drive question

[JimLev]

I need some schooling!
Is there any reason the stock LS3 alternator and AC compressor can't be used?
Looking at some of the aftermarket ($$$) kits it looks like you still need to buy a different harmonic balancer and water pump.
I don't need all chrome parts, the hood and side covers will be on 99% of the time.
Also don't need the PS pump either, I'm getting the electric steering.
The Alan Grove 144R AC bracket should work with the Sanden compressor, just not sure about an alternator bracket.
My harmonic balancer is a Corvette 1997-2013, with 1.5" space from the front of the balancer to the machined surface that the bolt screws into.

[DaveS53]

See post 89 in this build log. It shows that the CTS alternator and bracket will fit. The GM compressor can be fit to the engine, but the only '33 that I've seen with it used a custom machined bracket. This posting also has a photobucket link, that shows how this builder made his own bracket for a Sanden compressor, so I know it can fit, but the bracket had no belt tensioner, which isn't the best setup. I'd still try an Alan Grove bracket. It bolts to the same two 10mm threaded holes in the block and I know from owning one that the compressor almost touches one of those mounting bolts. Worst case, a little slotting of the compressor mounting holes might make it work. You can always return the bracket, if it doesn't fit.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/593609-33-ls1-t56-build-3.html

In this same build thread, there's a mention of a bracket from Dirty Dingo that should work, but the compressor may be too small.

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=373_375&products_id=1660

Here's the GM kit at Pace performance. If you click on documents, there are instructions with every part number in the kit. It might be cheaper to buy the parts individually, to skip the power steering parts.

https://paceperformance.com/i-6485404-19299070-cpp-accessory-drive-system-without-a-c-fits-ls1-ls6-engines.html

[JimLev]

Dave, thanks again for the help and info.
Looks like that homemade bracket used a bolt and few nuts to move the compressor to tension the belt.

I'll get in touch with Alen Grove and Vintage air tomorrow.

[HVACMAN]

I agree with your statement concerning the price of accessory drives for the LS3. I will not be running a hood or side covers, so I wanted something that looked fairly nice. I am not building a show car (beyond my skill and budget), but instead a 50/50 cruiser. I have researched this for months, I have a problem with spending 2.5-3K on a drive system. Holley makes some but all have power steering. The other day I came across a small company who manufactures one for $1.6K. It will be here today and I will post pictures.

[DaveS53]

I took a really accurate measurement of the pulley location on my Alan Grove setup. I got exactly 11 inches from the center line of the balancer to the outer edge of the compressor pulley. The balancer is 7-3/4" in diameter, so a measurement taken from the side of the balancer pulley will be 3-7/8" less. The front of the compressor pulley sits about 1-1/4 inches behind the front of the balancer. I'd cut a piece of 2x4 lumber to 7-1/8" length and see if it will slip between the balancer and the chassis tube, with the front of the wood block flush with the front of the balancer. If not, then it's not going to fit.

If looks are a concern, chrome plated Sanden compressors are not expensive. You won't find a polished or chromed CTS alternator, since the are not a common hot rod item.

https://nostalgicac.com/new-sanden-style-chrome-compressor-serpentine.html

The dirty dingo compressor bracket is supposed to position the pulley only 10-5/8" from the balancer, but you'd need to ask Vintage air about the small compressor displacement.

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=373_375&products_id=1660

You can get a chrome version of the SB710 compressor.

https://nostalgicac.com/sanden-style-sd7b10-7176-chrome-compressor.html

[JimLev]

Thanks for the info Dave, you always come thru. I finally feel like I'm getting a handle on all these parts that don't come with the Connect and Cruise package.

I just measured my balancer, it's 7-5/8", close enough. I spoke with Vintage air today, they have the same compressor bracket as Alan Grove is selling. The drawing is exactly the same except for the p/n, 141811. AG p/n is 144R.

I also found out that a lot of those eBay and other places that sell Sanden "style" compressors are all made in China. Vintage said theirs is made in the US, Texas I think. He recommended that I use their SD 709 compressor which is a 7 piston unit, 9.5 cu in. The 508 is a 5 piston 8.4 cu in unit and reportedly had some harmonic/vibration issues.
They sell the SD 709 for $209 for the standard finished and $259 for the polished unit, the bracket for $175. I'll need 12" of clearance from the block to the frame so I'll wait until my kit arrives before I order the parts. I could get the DirtyDingo if I have less than 12".
https://www.vintageair.com/search-results/?sqry=709%20Compressor

My Lokar shifter won't ship until Feb 5th.
Got the 10% rebate on the BBK headers today, still waiting for the big rebate from GM.

Now to get a low mount alternator and bracket.

[DaveS53]

You're right about the balancer diameter, it 7-5/8". I with a belt around the balancer, one end of my tape was probably catching the belt. A recheck with a machinist's rule gave me 7.6.

I bought one of the Chinese made 709 compressors for my car and it's been working fine. For the low mount alternator, it's easy to look up the individual GM part numbers. Most of the parts are cheap, except for the alternator, unless you're willing to buy a rebuilt unit, that will be less than half the cost of a new one.

The minimum parts needed are the 12569301 belt tensioner, 25766345 alternator, 12578550 alternator bracket, 12568996 idler pulley, plus the Dirty Dingo idler pulley to replace the power steering pump. Without an idler pulley in the PS pump location, you won't get a decent amount of wrap on the water pump pulley. This list doesn't include the metric mounting bolts. I replaced a lot of GM bolts with stainless steel bolts.

The drive belt length will have to be figured out by trial and error, since the idler pulley replacing the PS pump is much smaller. What I found when building my custom accessory drive, is that the tensioner needs to to be retracted as much as possible and held in that position, while installing the belt. I had to use a belt length that was difficult to install, in order for the tensioner not to exceed it's travel when released. There are two marks on the tensioner housing that indicate the proper range of tension. There's a very narrow range between too long and too short.

[bellingson]

Dave;

What was the part number for the belt that would work?


Bryon

[DaveS53]

Dave;

What was the part number for the bely that would work?


Bryon

Sorry, but I can't help with that. I built a different setup with a CTS power steering pump, Alan Grove compressor bracket and a high mount alternator bracket that I made myself, for my '37.

Some people use a string and others use a Taylor's tape to measure around the pulleys. Masking tape would also work. It's still only approximate. Convert the length to millimeters and you'll have the part number for some brands. For example, a 6PK2075 is a 6 rib 2075mm belt. Dayco's website allows you to put in a length and get several close part numbers.

[RoadRacer]

I used one of these to run engine in without alternator and will add links back in with alternator to determine final length. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A9ZNCJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[DaveS53]

We're talking serpentine belts, not V-belts.

[RoadRacer]

We're talking serpentine belts, not V-belts.

Yeah I figured. Never had one so wondered if it would still work as a temporary

[JimLev]

Dave, question about the p/n's in post 7. Did you use the water pump, and harmonic balancer that came with the LS3?
I'm getting ready to order those parts.
Just got an email from Jegs, my Lokar shifter is delayed, now shipping on the 10th.

[DaveS53]

The listed parts for the CTS drive work with the stock Corvette water pump and balancer. I wanted my setup to use all stock GM parts. Most aftermarket drives use an Edelbrock pump. They all change the balancer and use custom pulleys to move all the parts forward by 1-1/2 to 2".

[JimLev]

Thanks Dave, will order them now.

[HVACMAN]

I agree with your statement concerning the price of accessory drives for the LS3. I will not be running a hood or side covers, so I wanted something that looked fairly nice. I am not building a show car (beyond my skill and budget), but instead a 50/50 cruiser. I have researched this for months, I have a problem with spending 2.5-3K on a drive system. Holley makes some but all have power steering. The other day I came across a small company who manufactures one for $1.6K. It will be here today and I will post pictures.

The accessory drive arrived on Friday. I am pleased so far with the workmanship (excellent), and the price ($1,000 cheaper than many others). I am waiting on a flexplate holding tool, so I can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. The other thing I like about this set up is, it is an eight groove system instead of six, like most others use. Less chance of belt slippage.80096

[JimLev]

Andy, those look nice. Guess you need to change the harmonic balancer to use them?
Where did you get the acc drive parts from?

[DaveS53]

This looks like the company.

https://www.cvfracing.com/Chevy-LS-Engine-Serpentine-Conversion-AC-Steering-p/lsx-wraptor-aco.htm

Here's something else I noticed. Vintage air uses the small (peanut) Sanden compressor on some of their front runner kits, so they must consider it to be OK for some applications. To minimize the chance of frame interference, the Dirty Dingo low mount bracket would be the best choice. If it comes with a 6-rib clutch pulley, that would be better than the common 8 rib like I have. The 8 rib just makes the compressor fit more flexible, since it only takes a 4 rib belt to operate the compressor. I have one rib at the back and three in front that are not used.

https://www.vintageair.com/accessories/?subcat1=Compressors&subcat2=Sanden%20SD-7B10%20Front%20Runner

[HVACMAN]

Andy, those look nice. Guess you need to change the harmonic balancer to use them?
Where did you get the acc drive parts from?

It did come from CVF Racing as Dave mentioned. You don't have to change the balancer just the bolt to add an adapter for the 8 groove pulley.

[DaveS53]

I was looking through the pictures that I downloaded from other builds and found this one, that does not look promising for any low mount AC compressor, without some sort of frame mod. The balancer is supposed to be a camaro model, that's 3/4" further forward than the corvette model.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1255&attachmentid=80135

[JimLev]

Andy, your alt is a high mount one right?

I did order an alternator and bracket from Summit, it's a low mount unit, should be here on Tuesday.
I may need to change the balance pulley, will find out when the parts arrive.

Update:
The alternator arrived today (Sat) the mounting bracket won't be here until Wednesday.
It looks like it will line up with the pulley on the damper.

[HVACMAN]

Andy, your alt is a high mount one right?

I did order an alternator and bracket from Summit, it's a low mount unit, should be here on Tuesday.
I may need to change the balance pulley, will find out when the parts arrive.

Update:
The alternator arrived today (Sat) the mounting bracket won't be here until Wednesday.
It looks like it will line up with the pulley on the damper.
80426
Yes. I went with the high mount a/c and alternator.

[JimLev]

Nice looking pulleys.
Is the tranny dipstick a 24" Lokar? I need to get one.
Was the braided fuel line and connection to the engine supplied by FF or did you buy it.
Thanks.

[DaveS53]

I assume that Jim got this alternator bracket from Summit:

http://www.ictbillet.com/ls-corvette-billet-alternator-bracket-low-mount-lsx-ls1-ls2-ls3.html

The pictures show an 11.47 inch alternator width, but that could change depending on what alternator is used. ICT needs to note what model of alternator their bracket fits. The part number they gave is for a CS130D case model, but the alternator in their pictures doesn't seem to have the third leg.

The big question with the high mount setup is will it fit within the confines of the hood and hood sides? Not an issue if you don't use either. To make the high mount look it's best, stainless steel braided AC hose is a must.

[HVACMAN]

Nice looking pulleys.
Is the tranny dipstick a 24" Lokar? I need to get one.
Was the braided fuel line and connection to the engine supplied by FF or did you buy it.
Thanks.

The dipstick came from Jegs. 555-615953 FLEXIBLE DIPSTICK 4L60E $45.99 The fuel line came from Summit. NEX-12025 STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED HOSE
$40.70 The adapter came from Summit also. ICB-AN808-02B QUICK CONNECT FUEL RAIL

[JimLev]

Dave, the alt I bought is this one.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-37461

Yes, that looks like the ICT bracket I bought.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551668-3

Andy, thanks for those p/n's.
Glad that you guys are ahead of me and can help me out.

[DaveS53]

If you bought the -3 bracket, it's not going to work, since it has spacers for a truck balancer that is 1-1/2 inches longer. The -1 brackets are made for the Corvette balancer. The Corvette water pump won't work if the balancer is changed.

http://www.ictbillet.com/ls-truck-alternator-bracket-low-mount-lsx-ls3-lq4-lq9-l33-billet.html

Here's info on the balancer measurement. With the center bolt and washer in place, there is a little spacer around the washer to contact the face of the balancer.

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/images/New_Images/Large/LS_Balancer_Measure.jpg

I measured the distance between the mounting bolt holes on the engine block and it matches the 5.43 inch bolt pattern measurement that Power Master gives for the AD244 alternator case, not a CS130 or CS130D, that are both 5.31 inch. See page 86 of the powermaster catalog for the AD244 case info and page 78 for the CS130 dimensions.

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/catalog.html#

When I built my custom high mount alternator bracket, I chose a Tuff Stuff 8237A from Summit. It has an AD244 case and it plugged right in to the GM harness.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8237a

[JimLev]

At this point I'll just wait until the bracket shows up and figure out what's what. I can always send the Alt back for the one you linked to.
The LS3 is a Vette engine that has a 1.5" measurement from the face of the balancer to the bolt surface.
I'm meeting up with the local car club guys this Friday for our usual lunch and will look at a few of their Vetts to see what their balancer and offsets look like.
Thanks for the heads up Dave.

[JimLev]

Got the ICT alt bracket and other parts yesterday. Looks like with cutting a few of the spacers the pulley will align with the balancer. The engine is still sitting in the crate which has a 2x8 blocking most of the alt mounting position so I'll know for sure in a few weeks after the car arrives and I can pick the engine off the pallet.
My '33 should be heading west next week.

[HVACMAN]

Jim,
Do you have the 376/430 or the 376/480 connect and cruise?

[DaveS53]

You don't want to cut spacers shorter unless you have a lathe to face the ends square. You just need a 551667-1 bracket. Also, see if the holes in the bracket, fit the mounting holes in the alternator. The picture from Summit shows an alternator with one through-hole and one threaded hole. That won't work, since both holes need to be through-holes.

I kept the pallet for my crate engine, in case I needed to remove the engine and set it down some place. In my case, I built my car, drove it 1200 miles, then took it completely apart for painting. That pallet worked great to store the engine and trans until needed again.

FWIW, the new GM crate LS engines still use the Corvette balancer, but they have changed the oil pan to one that comes in the Chevy SS. That pan may cause interference with the electric power steering and require a change to the muscle car pan that looks the same as the 2013 Corvette pan that came with my 2013 model crate LS3. Back then, the just sold the same engine that went into the Corvette. They even left the Corvette torque tube coupler attached to the crank.

[JimLev]

Jim,
Do you have the 376/430 or the 376/480 connect and cruise?

Andy, 376/430 without CAT's and with BBK headers so it should put out a little more than 430.

Dave, I can cut a spacer square and do have access to a lathe.
The alt does have one threaded hole, not to difficult to drill them out if I have to, got a drill press.
I'm not doing anything to these parts until the car arrives and I have the engine in it.

I'm dumping the pallet as soon as possible, takes up a lot of room. I have a moving dolly that I can modify to hold the engine if needed. It's good for a 1000 Lbs, the engine is only 400 Lbs.

Yes it does have the Vette balancer. Haven't heard of any issues with the crate engine oil pan and the PS, will find out in a few weeks. I don't know what the differences between the 2 oil pans are. My sump is in the rear.

[HVACMAN]

Andy, 376/430 without CAT's and with BBK headers so it should put out a little more than 430.

Dave, I can cut a spacer square and do have access to a lathe.
The alt does have one threaded hole, not to difficult to drill them out if I have to, got a drill press.
I'm not doing anything to these parts until the car arrives and I have the engine in it.

I'm dumping the pallet as soon as possible, takes up a lot of room. I have a moving dolly that I can modify to hold the engine if needed. It's good for a 1000 Lbs, the engine is only 400 Lbs.

Yes it does have the Vette balancer. Haven't heard of any issues with the crate engine oil pan and the PS, will find out in a few weeks. I don't know what the differences between the 2 oil pans are. My sump is in the rear.

Jim, I'll give you something to think about. I have the LS3 376/480 but it has the same LS oil pan. The oil pan and power steering motor are approximately 3/4 inch below the frame rails. I was initially ok with this after reading Wallace18's80804 Richey Build, but the closer I get to go carting the more I am rethinking this. I have talked myself into changing the oil pan to a Holley 302-1. This not only is 1" shallower but also moves the leading edge of the sump back almost 3", which allows you to rotate the power steering motor up. It will be a lot easier to do it now than having to do it in the car like I am.

[myjones]

The oil pan and power steering motor are approximately 3/4 inch below the frame rails. I was initially ok with this after reading Wallace18's80804 Richey Build, but the closer I get to go carting the more I am rethinking this. I have talked myself into changing the oil pan to a Holley 302-1. This not only is 1" shallower but also moves the leading edge of the sump back almost 3", which allows you to rotate the power steering motor up. .

I didn't want the pan on my Hemi below the frame either so I had to have a custom oil pan made for it. The power steering motor being part of the
space conflict is something that I have been trying to get FF to change for awhile now. The Unisteer PS motor can be mounted on the firewall with a
10* wedge behind it and it lands in a spot that doesn't conflict with anything. The wedge keeps the U-joints on each side of it from binding and the
rest of the steering shafts path works out well. If you use the extra carrier from the LS application it works even better on some combos.
Dale

[JimLev]

Jim, I'll give you something to think about. I have the LS3 376/480 but it has the same LS oil pan. The oil pan and power steering motor are approximately 3/4 inch below the frame rails. I was initially ok with this after reading Wallace18's80804 Richey Build, but the closer I get to go carting the more I am rethinking this. I have talked myself into changing the oil pan to a Holley 302-1. This not only is 1" shallower but also moves the leading edge of the sump back almost 3", which allows you to rotate the power steering motor up. It will be a lot easier to do it now than having to do it in the car like I am.

Ummm, I was OK with it too after reading Wallace18's post. Does the Holley 302-1 oil pan hold the same amount of oil? Can't make out much from your pic.

Dale, not exactly sure what you are talking about, it sounds like a fix so I could use my existing oil pan.
Got a few pics so I can understand everything?
After reading your post a few times are you moving the PS motor and then using a rod down to the rack?

Thanks guys.

[DaveS53]

Just for comparison, the Corvette oil pan has a shallower sump, but it's a lot longer. Here are links that compare several models.

https://www.improvedracing.com/tech/holley-LS-retro-fit-oil-pan-dimensions.php

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208618

[HVACMAN]

Ummm, I was OK with it too after reading Wallace18's post. Does the Holley 302-1 oil pan hold the same amount of oil? Can't make out much from your pic.

Dale, not exactly sure what you are talking about, it sounds like a fix so I could use my existing oil pan.
Got a few pics so I can understand everything?
After reading your post a few times are you moving the PS motor and then using a rod down to the rack?

Thanks guys.

The Holley pan holds 5.5 qts.808098081080812

[DaveS53]

From the picture, it looks like the PS motor hits the sump. Is the Holley sump short enough that the motor will rotate to be in front of the sump? It's about 6 inches shorter than a Corvette pan.

[JimLev]

Thanks for all of the (bad?) info guys, always good to know before hand.
Before I blow another $400 on an oil pan I'll wait until I have the car here. I was told the car shipped today, still waiting to hear from the driver. Estimated delivery is Feb 24th.

My Lokar shifter arrived today, nice piece of engineering. One small issue, the lower cable mounting bracket is held in place on the tranny by 2 supplied M8 bolts thru 2 slots in the bracket. The bolts won't fit thru the slots.
The directions call out M6 bolts, however the tranny uses M8 not M6 bolts.

UPDATE:
Spoke with Lokar, they sent the wrong bracket, new one is being sent today.

[JimLev]

From the picture, it looks like the PS motor hits the sump. Is the Holley sump short enough that the motor will rotate to be in front of the sump? It's about 6 inches shorter than a Corvette pan.

Dave, looks like the Holley sump will allow the PS motor to be rotated up more and be above the bottom of the sump and frame rails.

[HVACMAN]

From the picture, it looks like the PS motor hits the sump. Is the Holley sump short enough that the motor will rotate to be in front of the sump? It's about 6 inches shorter than a Corvette pan.

The ps motor is approximately 1/4 inch from the sump. With the Holley pan it would allow the ps motor to rotate up in front of the sump. I estimate it would give an extra 2"+ of ground clearance.

[HVACMAN]

Dave, looks like the Holley sump will allow the PS motor to be rotated up more and be above the bottom of the sump and frame rails.

The sump on the Holley pan is not as deep and would bring it up inside the frame rails also.

[JimLev]

One of your gents posted the '33 had 4.5" of ground clearance, so I should have 3.75" with the PS motor hanging down. This might be OK. My lowered 540i only has 3" of ground clearance under the lower engine cover. I just have to take it easy over speed bumps or take them at a slight angle and I'm OK.
I'll wait until the car shows up and take some measurements, (got a call from the Stewart Transport driver yesterday, it will be here on Feb 27).
Guess I could possibly buy tires that had one size larger side walls? Might get another 1/4"??

[jayguy]

Guess I could possibly buy tires that had one size larger side walls? Might get another 1/4"??

Or just adjust the adjustable coil-overs to get a little more clearance. ;)

[DaveS53]

One thing I learned early in my (non FRR) build was that the shocks should ideally be set at 60% compression, at ride height, with a normal load. If you have the specs on the shocks, I'd figure out the perfect ride height for them and substitute mock-up bars for the coil-overs to see what ride height you get. With mock-up bars, weight is no longer a factor. The car will sit the same with out without the engine and body. I even used mock-up bars when I did my own front end alignment. If you get a screwy ride height, is means that the shock length isn't ideal.

I had adjustable mock-up bars from Speedway on the front, but had to modify them to get them short enough. For the rear, I used some cheap 1" EMT steel conduit and drilled fixed holes at the right c-c measurement. It's easier to drill square tube. You can get either one at Home Depot.

[JimLev]

Sounds like a good idea Dave. I already have some 1" EMT and square tubing.
I'm planning on using some lower tension QA1 springs for a softer ride, not going to track the car. Maybe just a few 1/4 mile runs until I get booted off cuz it will probably be too quick without having the required equipment.

[JimLev]

Or just adjust the adjustable coil-overs to get a little more clearance. ;)

Won't that mess up the alignment or induce bump steer?

[myjones]

HVACMAN asked about my PS move to the firewall;

I will look around for some pics of my PS set-up but from what I have seen it would work for almost any engine combo on the 33.
My Uni-steer is mounted on the firewall where the FF carrier bearing usually goes. That bearing then moves down to the plate that FF
says to mount the PS motor to. My install did not require any parts beyond the shafts and bearings that come with the kit and that part
of the firewall isn't used by anything shown in the build manual. A few others have mounted the overflow tank there but my tank is on
the PS.
HTH
Dale

[bellingson]

I would love to see a few pictures of your firewall mounting!

[DaveS53]

The PS motor relocation sounds like a big improvement with little or no extra cost.

[JimLev]

I would love to see a few pictures of your firewall mounting!

Could this be it??

81078

[myjones]

Could this be it??

81078

Jim
That's not mine, IIRC that is the one that uses a motor from a Saturn.
Same general location but mine is mounted directly to the firewall.
Having trouble loading the pictures I found of it so I'll try again later today.
Dale

[JimLev]

Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
I'll let Dale explain the rest.

81367

Not sure why the pic isn't showing up, however if I click on the attachment the pic shows up.
Here's another try.
81370

[myjones]

Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
I'll let Dale explain the rest. 81367

Not sure why the pic isn't showing up, however if I click on the attachment the pic shows up.
Here's another try. 81370

I know we are a little off track here talking about PS but it does open up things for a lot of different engine choices
and clears up oil pan issues so the only concern there is keeping any pan shallow enough to be above the frame.

As the picture shows, that's un-used space anyway and close enough to move the module inside away from the heat.
You can also see that the engine side U-joint angle is OK but the one inside the car is sharp enough to bind as is so the
10* wedge eases the angle inside enough to let that joint work properly.
Thanks to Jim for posting the link
Dale

[bellingson]

[QUOTE=JimLev;314127]Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
I'll let Dale explain the rest.

81367

Wow! This solves several problems. Now, where do you get the aluminum angle wedge for the interior side of the firewall?

[myjones]

[QUOTE=JimLev;314127]Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
I'll let Dale explain the rest.

81367

Wow! This solves several problems. Now, where do you get the aluminum angle wedge for the interior side of the firewall?

I used longer bolts and cut sleeves for them from steel pipe nipples. The end for the firewall gets the same 10* angle so it all pulls in tight.
HTH
Dale