Stillwater's 35 Build

[Stillwater35]

Thank you for having me in the forum. This is my first post. I placed my order over the holidays and have heard a potential ship date of March. I wanted to share with you some plans and get your thoughts.
I bought the base kit with the following options:
1. No fenders
2. Powder coat frame
3. I will be doing a 306 Blueprint engine with an AOD
4. Moser 8.8 with a 4-link
5. Vinyl bench seat
6. Heat/AC
7. Sound and heat insulation
8. Wilwood all around

Another idea I had was to replace the slats for holding down the wood bed with core-tax. That could hold down the wood but also provide infinite tie down options for the bed - http://www.coretiedowns.com/product/tie-down-solutions

I made a tracing of the outline of their pictures and then made copies of the tracings to help with getting color ideas. I am happy to send anyone the digital file of the tracing if you want! What do you guys think?
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[wallace18]

Welcome to the family! I too enjoy trying out color combos. Lots of cool options. I intend to go a single color with ghost flames. Stay tuned, LOL.

[Stillwater35]

I got my ship date of April 28th! They said I was the 4th in line. I am planning a factory visit some time before then. I live in MN but have an office in Boston for work. Could work out just great.

[wallace18]

Congrats! We both will be counting the days for our kits, LOL.

[rponfick]

Stillwater, I notice you will be using and AOD, which I plan also. Will you be getting it with your Blueprint engine, or sourcing it own your own? I notice Blueprint has packages for manual trannys, but don't list any for automatics. I have been looking at the Engine Factory combo that mates the AOD to their engine.
Any thoughts?
Ralph

[Stillwater35]

I owe them a call. I can't imagine they don't have packages available. I'll let you know what I find out.

[Stillwater35]

I just heard back from BluePrint. They are now offering a 4R70/AOD with their ford engines. I heard from Johnny McDevitt. I think that's going to be the course forward for me!

[Stillwater35]

Just got my order finalized, payment sent and shipping scheduled.

Stewart transport mentioned they've had a couple drivers out with personal time off but should be caught up by the end of the month.

I will be placing my blueprint order some time in may once the kit arrives. I'm within driving distance of their factory, so I might go pick it up myself. I wonder what they charge to ship a 306 and trans crate.

Have a great weekend. We're getting 12"+ of snow in Minnesota tonight. Urgh.

[Stillwater35]

Things are starting to get real. The Wilwood brake kit showed up on Friday (I plan to safety wire them this weekend).

I picked up the Moser 3-Link rear end from UPS freight and used my engine hoist to get it out of my truck and on to jack stands.

Stewart transport should be loading me up this week and a delivery next week (though that was the story last week). We'll get there!

[Stillwater35]

I forgot to mention - I put down my deposit for a carb 306 from Blueprint. June 20th delivery. I got just the amp and AC compressor. I am going with manual steering.

[Stillwater35]

Just made some more purchases while I wait for Stewart to load up in Wareham.
Bought my Performance Automatics AODE with a 12inch torque converter.
Blueprint is paid in full and both items should be arriving mid-june.

I did also realize that I swapped sides on my rear wilwoods. The diagram talks about it being the left hand side of the axel, but it doesn't show the front end and rear of the car directions. The calipers are in the 10 O'clock position and after looking at all the 33' gallery photos, they need to be in the 2 O'clock position. I guess I am starting early with assembling things twice. I think it would work except of the e-brake cable angle being wrong. Oh well. With the delays with Stewart, I got nothing but time.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjBDIgjgiUS/?taken-by=baytownmills

[Stillwater35]

So after deciding to drive from Minnesota to Wareham, I have my truck and almost all my pieces (backorder list is small). I want to outline the cost of the trip and then also the pictures I took from the factory. Should be of interest to people:

Timing:
Left MN 4am on Sunday
Drove to Cleveland
Left Cleveland at 7am Monday and was to Wareham by 5 (Lobster rolls were eaten)
Pick up at 9am Tuesday morning
Left the Factory at 10:30am
Arrived in Cleveland at 9:15pm
Left Cleveland at 4am Wednesday
Arrive in Minnesota at 4:15pm Wednesday.

The Details:
2821 Miles Driven
2018 Ford F-150 5.0V8
24' enclosed trailer
10.5 average MPG (interestingly got better mileage on the way home)

The Cost:
Gas $875
Tolls $245
Hotel $165 - (2 nights were free in Cleveland because I have points)
Meals $220
Trailer Rental $320
Total cost - $1825
Stewart Proposed Cost $1700

Taking something I couldn't control and making it something I could was worth my $125 and my time.
The crew at the factory were fantastic.

[Marv]

Nice write up and photos. Like the external door hinges on the FF truck did they say where they got them?

[rponfick]

That blue color looks nice on their shop truck. Did they mention color? May consider that myself.
Will the external door hinges be standard on the kit. Haven't seen them in previous pictures.
All of us in waiting will be watching your progress.
Ralph

[Stillwater35]

I just completed inventory and those hinges come standard and they're polished. I re-boxed them but their from a reputable brand.

The color was nice and it looked single stage. Like an homage to older truck paint schemes. They had just had it pin-striped when I was there.

Next is to write them a note with the backorder items and the like. Nothing major. Hoping to have the front control arms painted and mounted before I head out on business next week.




That blue color looks nice on their shop truck. Did they mention color? May consider that myself.
Will the external door hinges be standard on the kit. Haven't seen them in previous pictures.
All of us in waiting will be watching your progress.
Ralph

[CVOBill]

Congrats on getting your truck home, but even better taking your father with you to pick it up. I'm looking forward in watching your build thread.

[Stillwater35]

Alright, Started putting parts on the truck today. I started with the front end.

Pretty straight forward and it goes without saying that inboard suspension is really freaking cool. It also looks like the powder coat added a little thickness so I had to take a mil off the lower shock spacers and broke out the dead blow hammer for the bushings getting in to the mounts.

Here is a pic of it finished (i have adjusted the bottom hats already.

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[wallace18]

Looking good!

[Fixit]

Shout-out to "Stillwater"...
Car-guys/gearheads are the best. He invited me over to see his kit (after his "turn-n-burn" trip to MA to get it). We were in the same boat with shipping, and he took the bull by the horns route and went and got it himself.

He's wasting no time! Agreed, the front suspension is a thing of beauty - straight out of Indy/F1 tech stuff.

Thanks for your hospitality, and the gift of the printed assy manual of the Roadster! Hoping my Roadster kit will arrive soon...

[Stillwater35]

I have been making progress now that I've had a week or so of not traveling for work. I do my work at night after the kids are asleep (5year old and 1 year old).

The rear end when in fine and the production chassis don't require drilling except for the panar bar. The pinion seal on my brand new moser rear end leaks, so they sent me a new one and it goes in tonight.
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The pedal box went in ok, after I realized that it gets mounted on top of the support, not hung from the supports. Pages 113 and 117 of the manual are inaccurate for the truck.

Then I started on the firewall. I had to back bevel the areas where the frame supports meet the firewall to clear the welds and get the firewall to sit flush. I then polished the firewall and hit it with the scour pad from my flattop griddle. Then hit it with satin clear designed for wheels and high temp areas.
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Next was the steering which was a learning experience for me as I have never done it before. Got it done, but did it twice ;)
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Next up is brake lines and then the wiring harness gets unfurled. Oh, and the 306 from BluePrint showed up!

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Onward!

[rponfick]

Have you thought about what size tranny cooler to run with your AOD? I see there are no cooler ports in the supplied radiator. The coolers I see advertised are usually supplemental to the one in the radiator.
Something else to think about.
Thanks, Ralph

[Stillwater35]

Yesterday was a day of good progress but it all doesn't look like much. I have the e-brake cables and hardlines installed and the brake system bled. My 5 year old helped pump the brakes.
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I also replaced the hex-head bolt holding in the steering column with a same-size button head and lock nut. Now the brake pedal clears through its full range of motion88090

As Wallace said, the new pedal box design means the fuse panel needs a bracket. I rummaged around in the garage and found a left over bracket from a truck LED light bar. It was perfect.
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Additionally, had an unexpected repair. The Moser rear-end came with a leak out of the pinion seal. I replaced that (what a pain) and found the bearing was borked. I've included a picture here.
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I also replaced the red hose with a black hose for the brake rez.
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The main wiring harness is 'in' and I think next is the engine and trans.

[Stillwater35]

These past couple days have seen some real progress. Got the Performance Automatic AODE mated to the Blueprint 306. Took a bit of doing, mostly from being a rookie, but we're there. Then I had my helpers to get it in the chassis. That was actually pretty uneventful.

Next was the radiator. The new design both doesn't have an internal trans cooler, but it also doesn't have more than 1 port so you either get a drain plug OR a temp sensor. I will resolve that later.
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However, the radiator mounted up with me having to buy more spacers but without having to use any of the fan shrouds. It mounts directly to the studs!

The next post will be about the trans cooler situation.

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[Stillwater35]

Without a built in trans cooler I had to buy one and find a place for it. I bought a Derale remote cooler with -8AN fittings.

I mounted it on the passenger side with brackets I made from the hood supports (which I am not using). It is facing down and I will make sure the fan it wired to pull air rather than push.

Then I got some AN fittings for the auto trans and now just have to run flexible hoses.

About $200 I wasn't expecting but am happy how it turned out.

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[rponfick]

Was it easier to mount the cooler flat, rather than at an angle/verticle to utilize some forward airflow. Are you going to run an in-line temp sensor, or have the fan run all the time.
Looks like you chose a large capacity unit since there is no cooling assist from the radiator.

Keep up the good postings. I had fun removing the cab yesterday. I may grind some more off the lower front extensions to make it easer to get on and off. It sure rubs on the roll cage, and I see why the cardboard tubes are there for protection. I used a hoist so I could do it myself.

Ralph

[Stillwater35]

I couldn't make verticle or angled work anywhere - it was all trial and error. And, if you're not running it upfront you're only going to get swirled air in the rear. That's why I went with the fan. It will pull from the top and exit hot air towards the road.

I am going to wire it in to the fuel pump circuit (it's right there in the wiring harness) and it will always be on with the ignition. Then I won't ever forget to turn it on.

I found a local speed shop in the Twin Cities, MN and bought what they had on the shelf. Looked beefy and was ~$160 sans fittings and hoses.


Was it easier to mount the cooler flat, rather than at an angle/verticle to utilize some forward airflow. Are you going to run an in-line temp sensor, or have the fan run all the time.
Looks like you chose a large capacity unit since there is no cooling assist from the radiator.

Ralph

[rponfick]

Thanks for the comments. Yes, I think we will all have to run a fan model. It's a bummer that a verticle or angled spot is not available. I do think it will be important for us to run a fairly large unit to handle the cooling load.

How hard was it for you to get the cab off. I used a hoist system from Racor and it worked pretty slick, but front outriggers do rub a bit.

Ralph

[Stillwater35]

Was traveling for work all week so finally got to make some progress again.

I finished plumbing the whole engine and HVAC system. I bought a AC hose crimper and it worked like a champ. All the hoses route just fine given enough patience. I also got the trans lines ran as well.
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I then moved on to the headers (bbk1515) and exhaust. That was a bit tedious but went ok. Everything is in. Not sure about the exhaust exit location, but that final pipe is really the easiest and can be modified whenever at a later date.
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I also finally decided on wheels and tires. The specs are:
18x8" Fronts with 245/35/18 Nitto NT555 G2s
20X9.5" Rears with 275/35/20 Nitto NT555 G2s
and the wheels are US Mags, U111 Ramblers.
The rears fit just fine, however the fronts didn't initially clear the wildwood calipers. A small 1' spacer and everything is perfect. This thing is nice and low (or maybe it's just me reacting to having it 20" off the ground for so long.
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Moving on the fuel soon. I also think my seat and driveshaft shipped from FFR last week. I'll keep everyone updated.

[Fixit]

You are bangin' this thing out - guess you weren't kidding about cruising in August!!

I'm in the same "road warrior" boat - WI this coming week, SC week after that. Been doing what I can on the Roadster.

[Stillwater35]

Nope, not messing around. I'm home all week so each evening I hope to make some progress. I did realize that when I let the car down on it's wheels, that without a driveshaft, it really does just roll....

Good luck on the road. Let me know if I can help in any way!


You are bangin' this thing out - guess you weren't kidding about cruising in August!!

I'm in the same "road warrior" boat - WI this coming week, SC week after that. Been doing what I can on the Roadster.

[Fixit]

I did realize that when I let the car down on it's wheels, that without a driveshaft, it really does just roll....

So how far down the drive and into the cul-de-sac did it get before you threw a body-part (chock) in the way??!! ;)

[Stillwater35]

Zero feet. However it might not be sitting perfectly straight in the stall anymore.....

[Dcc2]

Good to know the transport costs both ways, good job.

[Stillwater35]

On to Chapter 3!

I just finished all the wiring I can for now. The engine is wired, the Vintage air is wired, the transmission TCU for my AODE is all wired.

I got the driveshaft in the mail this past week and now I just need a fuel filler neck and seat from my POL and I'm a week away from go-karting!

I installed the lokar shifter which required me to drop the pan and install a lokar shift selector shaft too. Unplanned, but wasn't terrible.

Onward and upward with the build!

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[Marv]

Do you have the dementions of the condenser that came in the a/c kit?

[Stillwater35]

Do you have the dementions of the condenser that came in the a/c kit?

Pretty sure it's this one - https://www.vintageair.com/builder-series/?subcat1=Gen%20II%20Compac

Dimensions are in there.

[Stillwater35]

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So I finished the rear bulkhead, floor pans and transmission tunnel. The black sealant is drying. Getting closer to firing it up (probably next weekend).


I need help though. I've got loads of very specific shaped aluminum and can't for the life of me figure out where it goes. Can anyone whose at this point help me? Wallace? Erik?

Thanks
Jeff

[wallace18]

My suggestion is wait on the manual. It should be out in the next week or so. You will most likely get a PDF version first followed by paper in the mail. Some of the aluminum fills holes not used and some are for templates for cutting out doors for frame and hinges.

[Marv]

The ones with the sharp points appear to close off the rear of the cab between the seat belt mounting and sides,overlapping the floor pans. The ones in the picture I have not figured out. Did FFR give you a link to some photos in Dropbox if not ask them to do so. It has some build photos.






Updated these two pieces are installed to the rear cab corners once the body is mounted.

[Stillwater35]

The ones with the sharp points appear to close off the rear of the cab between the seat belt mounting and sides,overlapping the floor pans. The ones in the picture I have not figured out. Did FFR give you a link to some photos in Dropbox if not ask them to do so. It has some build photos.

There are only 2 pics that are helpful to sheet metal. Those ones are super weird and I have no idea where they go.

[Marv]

Here are a few shots hope they help. First is of the door templates. Second is of the door opening trim and triangle with front upright. Last shot is of the rear corner of cab where the pointed pieces go. Also the two pieces sitting on the floor aluminum go under the radiator and cowl I believe.

[Stillwater35]

Thanks for this. I see how the front pieces go in now. However, I don't have the pieces behind the seats. Time to e-mail FFR


Here are a few shots hope they help. First is of the door templates. Second is of the door opening trim and triangle with front upright. Last shot is of the rear corner of cab where the pointed pieces go. Also the two pieces sitting on the floor aluminum go under the radiator and cowl I believe.

[Stillwater35]

Today was a big day! After getting all the aluminum attached it was time to clean everything up, make final connections for the trans cooler, and TCM for the trans and clear out the floorpans I had been using as tool storage. It was go-kart day.

My experience - in my first-time-builder brain I was going to add some gas, attached the positive terminal of the batter cable and fire it up. That's not how any of this works. First we found that the fuel system leaked out of the fuel pressure regulator in 4 out of 4 holes. After tightening and sealing, the lovely fuel leak right over the headers was gone.

Next, we fired it up and nothing happened. We had no spark. We had oil pressure, fuel pressure, air but no spark. We found out our problem by googling the wiring diagram for the MSD distributor. We were missing a power cable (the orange one from the harness labeled "EFI or Coil") to the positive side of the coil. After my 1 year old's nap was over it was time to start it up!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BlyWIQuna8N/?taken-by=baytownmills

Dang - it sounds good. Thanks to blueprint for the great set up.

Then it was time to get moving. This was a bit less successful.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BlyXWgKAQeB/?taken-by=baytownmills

It was super rewarding to get things going under their own power. Now - it was not without issues.

1. The auto trans needs to run for a while for the fluid to get everywhere - meaning I didn't have reverse yet. TBD on getting that resolved though I think it just needs more fluid with the torque converter and trans cooler needed to get their fluid.

2. The lower radiator hose is a total PITA and FFR doesn't send you the right stuff. So the bottom of the radiator is 1.5" OD and the metal tube is 1.75" OD and so you need a reducer. It was here that I lost my radiator hose and lost all my coolant - so back to the garage i went. I have it fixed but this is just a total cluster getting this to work with the old 33 parts and the new 35 radiator. ::rant over::

3. You have to get the coolant to cycle through the radiator. It ran hot a couple times but that's just because of air in the system. I'll get there.

Now - today was an awesome day. But I really could use the manual as I am on to chapter 4 and this is where the 33 doesn't line up with the 35 at all. Hopefully that comes soon!

Have a great night,
Jeff

[herb fraser]

Very Kool !
Herb

[wallace18]

Congrats. Yes the 35 is a PITA to get air out of the cooling system. I raised the rear wheels in the air 2' to get the air out.

[Stillwater35]

I just did the same things this morning. Good tip. Onward!


Congrats. Yes the 35 is a PITA to get air out of the cooling system. I raised the rear wheels in the air 2' to get the air out.

[Stillwater35]

While FFR gets their final bench seat design and approved for production (6-8 weeks out), i bought a pair of roadster seats. They look great in the truck. Probably won't be the forever solution, but will let me go-kart much more safely.

Thanks to @packerfan for the deal!

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[Stillwater35]

After a couple weeks of travel and messing around with the all the heat/sound insulation on the inside, we got the body on.

A couple notes - the heat/sound insulation kit doesn't cover everything in the truck, so I ended up buying 2 rolls of dynamat and 3 rolls of dynaliner. Glad I have extra so I can ensure everything is covered.

Also, I made a rookie mistake - I didn't like the red brake line from the master cylinder to the firewall so I used black fuel line. My line is now weeping brake fluid. Now on the hunt from more wilwood lines - which is way harder than it should be.

Now on to pictures - got the body on. I had to notch out the bottom of the body near where the A pillar goes all the way down to the bottom frame rail. I also had to square up the inside of the lip that transitions from the bed to the cab in back. Relatively easy with help. I'm now post go-kart, and doing the body steps in the beta manual. Time to step up the pace on progress as my goal is a fall-colors drive. Which is October in MN.

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[rponfick]

I like your blue seat covers. Keep the posts coming.
Ralph

[Stillwater35]

Ha!
Did you get the harbor freight moving blankets seat cover special too? I'm just using them to not narf up my heat mat pre carpet.
I like your blue seat covers. Keep the posts coming.
Ralph

[Fixit]

Lookin' good - The way you're progressing a run down WI 35 for some ice-cream at Nelson's is soon to be!

[BillGardner]

I took a piece of black heat shrink tubing and put it over the red line.

[rponfick]

I worry about these exposed brake fluid reservoirs on painted firewalls. Any spills or leaks and you have peeling paint. I have used DOT 5 in the past in some cars to avoid this problem. I know there is a great debate in using the silicone based fluid, especially from racers, but in some cases it makes sense. I have not decided yet which way to go.
Rallph

[Stillwater35]

Great idea on the shrink wrap. Going to 100% steal that one.

A leak can happen no matter where it is mounted. Honestly, I would rather have it leak on the outside where I can clean/re-paint more easily than have it leak on the pedal box, wires and everything behind the dash. But - the inside mount is a much cleaner look, I can't deny that.

[Stillwater35]

I just provided FFR some feedback on the beta manual. I'll post that feedback here too. It is mostly around the doors - as that I what I am doing now. Also, those hinges are some serious material. Have multiples of the drill bits you need and multiple hacksaw blades.

Feedback (I know it's a beta manual so I am not complaining. Just sharing my learnings for later builders):
Page 300:
You call out that you have to flip the template but it just wasn’t obvious enough for me. And the picture on page 303 only shows 1 set of hinges. That critical step would be more obvious if the picture on 303 showed both hinges. Side note - those hinges are tough!

Page 322 - Door Latch Prep
The clevises needed to be pressed in a vice for the bolt to fit. The ones sent weren’t pinched together and that might need to be in the instructions.

Page 323 - Door Frame Assembly
First thing it says to do is put the frame in the door. This is wrong. The frame won’t go in the door assembled, so I had to take it apart, put both pieces in and then re-assemble it.

Page 325 - Door Hinge Nut Plate
You call out this part but it’s nowhere on the packing list and I just used bolts, washers and nuts. Either include it or change the manual (maybe you are doing this on later trucks

[rponfick]

Since I am still waiting for shock threaded sleeves, I have not gotten as far as you have, but have been looking as small things I can work on.
One change I noticed relates to the e-brake handle and mounting brackets. On page 80 of the Beta it shows the new long "L" shaped bracket that attaches to the frame. The new "toothed" part is shorter than the one supplied with the kit. Also, the picture below that one still shows the two holed bracket you are to attach to the frame for the cables to run through. As I understand, this bracket is no longer used, as the cables are to run through a two holed plate that is welded to the lower rear bulkhead tube, and run bare up to the brake handle. I am curious as to why this change was made.

Just also sharing.
Ralph

[KenWilkinson]

I just provided FFR some feedback on the beta manual. I'll post that feedback here too. It is mostly around the doors - as that I what I am doing now. Also, those hinges are some serious material. Have multiples of the drill bits you need and multiple hacksaw blades.

Feedback (I know it's a beta manual so I am not complaining. Just sharing my learnings for later builders):
Page 300:
You call out that you have to flip the template but it just wasn’t obvious enough for me. And the picture on page 303 only shows 1 set of hinges. That critical step would be more obvious if the picture on 303 showed both hinges. Side note - those hinges are tough!

Page 322 - Door Latch Prep
The clevises needed to be pressed in a vice for the bolt to fit. The ones sent weren’t pinched together and that might need to be in the instructions.

Page 323 - Door Frame Assembly
First thing it says to do is put the frame in the door. This is wrong. The frame won’t go in the door assembled, so I had to take it apart, put both pieces in and then re-assemble it.

Page 325 - Door Hinge Nut Plate
You call out this part but it’s nowhere on the packing list and I just used bolts, washers and nuts. Either include it or change the manual (maybe you are doing this on later trucks

Good Stuff, I think perhaps that this should be a top thread in the 35 Pickup forums. Can you please start one with a label like "35 Pickup Beta Manual Changes" please?
If anyone finds anything else we'll have one location to check. I'm hoping Tom Wallace will have some enlightenment in this area as well.

Regards,
Ken

[Stillwater35]

Just thought I owed everyone an update. I got the body on and the the door hinges are really stumping me. The bolts that came in the kit don't want to fit and there seems to be too much interference with the body and the bolts. I have e-mail FFR and will let you know what I learn. If anyone knows what's going on, please let me know. Tom? Erik?

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[Stillwater35]

I have started my layout for the dash and got the gauge cluster in and the Heat/AC controls in too. Mounted it in the truck and there are no clearance issues with the gauges and the AC condenser. Good News!

The instructions call for cutting 6 holes in the dash and then getting it to match up. I thought that was wrought with alignment issues so I cut one big hole with 'tabs' left for button head screws. Then I can take the whole cluster out with 1 unit, rather than those thumb screws holding down the bridges on the the autometer gauges. See the cardboard template I made out of a diaper box that shows what gets removed.

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[Stillwater35]

Last update. I got it running again just so everything stays lubricated. I almost forgot how awesome it sounds. See these 2 videos.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08DV6zE2i80

[wallace18]

Looking good and sounds great!

[TDSapp]

I almost forgot how awesome it sounds. See these 2 videos.




Where is the second video? I want to hear a few more revs. :-)

[Stillwater35]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZPAGof17Jw

Ask and you shall receive.

[TDSapp]

NICE.... Me likey!

[Marv]

Sounds good. Posted some hinge pictures on my thread hope they help

[Fixit]

Looking & Sounding good!
(Just set about 300 rivets in the trunk of #9365)

[Stillwater35]

This past week I was off work and my Dad came up to help. We got both doors on now and the hinges work and the striker works and got the door handles on. Pretty happy with that. Once that work was done we NEEDED to run it again. That was real fun. Also, had to make sure I got what I paid for from Moser because I paid extra for a limited slip differential.

I also got the new style headlights with the horizontal bar for the DRL and Turn Signal. Took a little fiddling with the wires but I got them working too. I used a "jump pack" to test which wire did what at the front of the car. Had to derive my own wiring diagram really. Plus side is they look amazing! (photos still to come once I have it final wired)

I will be making a larger post about the doors and lessons learned.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGP4C8BX9_A

[rponfick]

I don't understand the third photo above. Your brakes must be adjusted too tight.

Will be interested in seeing your detailed door photos and hints.

Ralph

[Stillwater35]

So this is super cool - I installed the headlights. I asked for the more modern ones from the manual with the daytime running lights (DRL) and all LED construction. I'm glad I swapped them out.

A note on the wiring - I think this is an area where FFR is doing some changes so initially I followed the colors on the manual and my high beams / low beams were backwards. It was right on the dashboard light so I just needed to swap the wires. I may or may not do the cowl, so I made all the connectors removable in case I need to remove everything at any time.

They are FREAKING cool


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CEmDOWDb88

[Mick40]

Excellent!!!!!! Couldn't be more fitting for a hotrod truck. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Mick

[FF33rod]

Very Cool! Are those standard now with the 33 and the truck? Wondering if I'm going to get those when my 33 kit ships next week....

edit: emailed FFR, they advised that these LED headlights are now standard on all the hot rods

[Stillwater35]

Made some more progress this weekend. I connected the rear tail lights and got the dash backlighting for the Vintage Air to work.

I also got the hooks and chains and hardware to mount the tailgate. That was a pretty fun step. I also wanted to get some sleeves for the chain but didn't want to pay for it. So out come the leather tools and some thread. It looks ok and will loosen up over time but they work!

Does anyone know why my blinkers would work when I'm not on the brake pedal. But when I am on the brake pedal they don't work, the light just goes solid. This is the case for both the headlights and tail lights. Sorta vexed - but might search for a better ground for the flasher relays.

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[Fixit]

Without looking at it I'll try...

The turn signal switch (TSS) in the column is "at rest", it connects the brake light switch (feeding +12v) into both sides/wires leading back to the lamps.
When the TSS is thrown, it breaks the feed from the brake circuit, and inserts the +12v from the turn signal flasher circuit into the side you selected. The opposite side is still connected to the brake light circuit.

It sounds like your TSS in the column isn't breaking contact. Sometimes the little metal strips/fingers need a tweak so the cam in switch opens the contacts.

(I hope this makes sense..)

[wallace18]

Made some more progress this weekend. I connected the rear tail lights and got the dash backlighting for the Vintage Air to work.

I also got the hooks and chains and hardware to mount the tailgate. That was a pretty fun step. I also wanted to get some sleeves for the chain but didn't want to pay for it. So out come the leather tools and some thread. It looks ok and will loosen up over time but they work!

Does anyone know why my blinkers would work when I'm not on the brake pedal. But when I am on the brake pedal they don't work, the light just goes solid. This is the case for both the headlights and tail lights. Sorta vexed - but might search for a better ground for the flasher relays.

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Make sure you did the wiring mod as it is in the 33 manual or your indicator lights will come on with the brakes.

[Stillwater35]

I cut the yellow and white wires from page 176 of the beta manual. Just don't know if I need to cut more than 2. I am going to e-mail Tony with a pic.

[rponfick]

Jeff, old question on when you mounted radiator to grill. Did the radiator fit flat on the grill? Mine hits the center brace of the grill and sits up about 1/4". I have been grinding grill brace and radiator sides, but do not want to go much further. I notice notches in the brace, but they do not fit radiator width.
Did you have the issue and how did you resolve. "
Thanks, Ralph

[Marv]

Ralph, my radiator is spaced about 3/4 of an inch above grill the grill mounts. I have A/C so the condenser is in front, buy some 1/4 inch ID spacers from a hardware store give yourself some clearance between the radiator and horizontal brace measure and cut.

[rponfick]

Marv, thanks. I got it fairly close by grinding the brace and radiator housing, and now everything fits flush without spacers.

After temporarily mounting the grill/radiator to the car, I see I will have to find another place for my horns. There is no way my lower radiator hose will attach, as the horns are right in front of the outlet. So much for the Beta Manual, as the alternate mount suggestion is evidently for the '33 Hot Rod frame.
The beta manual pictures also show the lower radiator connections from the 33 HR radiator that connects below the frame.

Jeff, just noticed your no. 43 post and experienced your lower radiator outlet issues. I have ordered Boig Motorsports lower hose and I hope it helps me with your experience. They had to change their design to resolve the size change for the outlet. Fun.

Ralph

[Stillwater35]

I am actually thinking of swapping out my set up with the Boig setup this winter. It just looks cleaner.

I will take pictures of my grill tonight and the goofiness of the mounting. Wonder if it was fixed with latter builds.

I'm kind-of done with the build for now. Waiting on Bench seats, and over xmas I'm taking it to the body shop.

I will probably buy some more dynamat (or equivalent) and finish the whole inside of the cab.

The first cars and coffee in MN is the first Saturday in April. I'm hoping to drive there for that one (assuming I start and finish with the DMV).

[rponfick]

Thanks for the comments. Where did you put your horns?

We have been missing you.

Ralph

[Stillwater35]

I haven't yet - but they will probably go somewhere around where the steering shaft comes out of the firewall. There's lots of space over there.

I also will be installing the wood bed soon. My dad did the work but it will have black core-trax and the lip of the gas filler is recessed in the wood. My design goal was to have a cardboard box slide around the bed without snagging on anything.

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Thanks for the comments. Where did you put your horns?

We have been missing you.

Ralph

[Stillwater35]

Here is how I have the radiator and AC condenser mounted. I will admit it was a total PITA when I did it.

The sandwich goes like this
Rivnut
Grill tab
Spacer
AC condenser bracket
spacer
Radiator Tab
Machine screw to the rivnut

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[Marv]

Nice job looking good!

[rponfick]

That certainly moves the radiator back a bit from the grill. Looks good.
Let the improvision continue.

PS: I noticed on your first start video you are running the side exhaust option. Do you think you will stay with that. I just mocked mine up and they are really low to the ground. I guess I could have a different pipe bent that may work, as I like the side option.
I am also playing with the pipes they provide that dump in front of the rear axle, but they are so close to crossmembers that I don't think you can prevent rattles. And, blowing dust all over everything is not a pleasant picture.

Ralph

[Stillwater35]

My dad came up and we got to work on putting the wood bed with Core Trax as slats in place.

Step 1:
Map out where the frame is under the metal bed panel. You need to know this later when you're drilling holes for the slats.

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Step 2:
Lay everything out and make sure your fuel filler hole is lined up. Then start marking the center line of the slats. The bolts are 1/4" wide and we left 1/4" gap on either side for expansion and contraction. That's a total of 3/4" between each board. Once we had that we could mark where the holes were to be drilled, noting which holes we are going to skip because of frame interference:

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Step 3:
We lifted the metal up on 2x4s over the frame. This allowed us to tighten everything, including the bolts that are over the fuel tank. We are going to bolt through the bulkhead at the front of the bed and panel bond the bed to the frame when we're all the way done.

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Step 4:
Run bolts through the trax and in to the steel. Then use the tie downs and and rope to lift the whole unit up and down in to place. Also we routed the opening for the fuel filler so the filler sat flush. The design goal here was I could slide a cardboard box across the bed floor without getting snagged on anything

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Step 5:
Dream of summer cruises with a cooler full of ice cold beverages. HEre's a pic of my dad (Tom) who should get all the credit for the woodwork and angle bracket engineering!

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[dan04mcs]

Looks very nice.

I have a couple of lengths of track that I plan on using also.

Thanks for posting the process.
Less thinking I have to do!

[wallace18]

Looks Great!

[Marv]

Wow turned out great!

[HotRod~Al]

Jeff , your White Oak floor looks great . The Core Trax is a great idea.

Now that you have done it, would you recommend the combination to another builder ?

[Stillwater35]

To every single one. I am really excited about the prospect of being able to secure things in the back for car shows and road trips. There isn't a lot of storage options in the cab. I am also biased, as you can imagine.

Also, welcome to the forum.


Jeff , your White Oak floor looks great . The Core Trax is a great idea.

Now that you have done it, would you recommend the combination to another builder ?

[HotRod~Al]

Jeff,

We have a special reason to be interested in your build. My wife and I sold your dad Tom the White Oak lumber.

30 years ago I had a 1923 T Bucket , but sold it and got married and started our Sawmill business.
Sence then we have not had time , space, or money for a toy. March of 18 we bought a 71 C10 to ease back into the sport.
When your dad showed up and told us FF had a truck and you were building one, that got us thinking.

While talking to your dad, he mentioned that a particular shop was going to help you with the body work and paint.
Is that still the plan ?
We would like to see the truck if possible.


For some reason I do not get Email notification for this thread.
So I’ll have to just check back for your reply.


Al

[Stillwater35]

Just sent you a PM. Thanks for reaching out!

[Stillwater35]

Like many here - I got my seat installed. it wasn't easy and the fit was really tight. I would take out the trans tunnel piece to line up your holes in to the frame. Also, pad the back of the seat or the lower supports of the roll bar to protect the back of your seat. I have some repairs to do to the back of the seat. I also made a cut in the seat frame that made life 100% easier for installs. I e-mailed Tony and he said that it shouldn't matter and I agreed. So out came the hacksaw.

I also needed longer lag bolts in to the frame for mounting. So I got 5/16" x 3" grade 8 bolts. Work like a champ.

I'm 5'9" with a 30" inseam and I am happy with the seat placement. That's just a point of reference for everyone.

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[rponfick]

Jeff, I see you are fitting the 5 point belts that came with the kit. What is your opinion on how they will work.
I see Wallace has opted to go with the optional 3 point. I would like to use the 5 point, which is certainly not as convenient as a 3 point, but decisions, decisions. I have lived with the 5 point for 7 years now on my roadster.
Thanks, Ralph

[Stillwater35]

It's ok. The length you get out of the lap belts doesn't feel like enough really. Maybe I'm just routing it wrong through the seats. I'm not a big guy, and it works, but there isn't a lot of extra. I have my 6 year old who will ride with me, so she will be getting a booster and a 5-point. I feel real good about how safe that is, and so does her mother.

I have considered running both honestly. Not at the same time, but have them both bolted in and go in-between.


Jeff, I see you are fitting the 5 point belts that came with the kit. What is your opinion on how they will work.
I see Wallace has opted to go with the optional 3 point. I would like to use the 5 point, which is certainly not as convenient as a 3 point, but decisions, decisions. I have lived with the 5 point for 7 years now on my roadster.
Thanks, Ralph

[Stillwater35]

It’s been a while since my last update. Lots of progress to report. It is finally warming up here in Minnesota.

I made the decision to drive it in gelcoat this season. I want to get all the bugs figured out and meter out when I spend $10k on body/paint.

I installed the power windows. The gap you need to cut is at minimum .7 inches all the way around. Also, I think the corners will need to get a wider gap as the trim bunches up there and causes too much friction with the window. I mounted the switches on either side of the hvac controls above the gauges.

The seatbelts/seat install was a chore. I want to feed the belts through the seats for a clean install. That means you have to have the seat in the truck, while you bolt in the belts. Maybe there is a better way, but kinda tough.

Also, make sure you install the ebrake boot before the seat. I think I need to loosen my seat again to finish that.

The order I would follow is
Carpet, brake boot, seat half way in, seatbelts, seat all the way in.

Check out the pics.

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https://twitter.com/vizmills/status/1110134251251478528?s=21


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijt1ZrFivyQ&app=desktop

[Stillwater35]

You should see some of this in the video on twitter, but the wire loom stuff from summit is awesome at cleaning everything up.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890340?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5TYvYSg4QIVirrACh0wAQGHEAQYAyAB EgI8JPD_BwE

10/10 would use again

[Marv]

Very cool, that kid looks like a hot rodder in the making.

[Stillwater35]

Well I think I owe people some updates:

1. I have my inspection scheduled with the State of Minnesota for June 5th. I have to drive 90 minutes out of the way to do it. Otherwise to get it done in St. Paul, MN it was going to be October at the earliest

2. My water pump started leaking. BluePrint Engines stood behind their warranty and sent me a whole new pump and gaskets. I took this opportunity to buy the Boig cool tube. That should arrive this week.
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3. Got the glass installed - had a mobile glass installer come to my house. Took them under 1 hour and I'm glad it's done.
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4. My kit was an early kit so it had the 33 exhaust. When they sent me the turn-down exhaust I didn't get the hangers. I also didn't like the idea of the length of those hangers, so I bought these - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-th902-5bc
I cut them to be flush to the frame, drill/tapped the holes and they work awesome to keep the exhaust from rattling against the frame (which it was doing).
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5. Got the windows and door panels done. Please put on your side mirror before your window glass is in. Ask me how I know!
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I just need to finish the water pump swap, run new coolant through it and trailer it up to St. Cloud. Getting closer with Chassis #8

Here it is sounding pretty nice

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ERujdUgK6Q

[rponfick]

Did the glass guy fab up any type of rubber grommet, or just use an adhesive? You want a neat job if just adhesive.
Thanks, Ralph.

[Stillwater35]

They put a 1/3” foam-ish gasket on the back of the glass. Makes it a nice appearance.

[Robodent]

Great job !!!! No biggie on the glass it will need to come back out to paint anyway the final fit is the important one. Good luck on your inspection. Did you install wipers ? I’m in Illinois idk if I have to have them or not for when the time comes. I really don’t want them or plan on using them. Rob

[Stillwater35]

I am going no wipers. My understanding of MN process is that this is NOT a safety inspection (they say this right on the form) but it is a "did you buy the major components of your car and can you prove ownership inspection. I have all that lined up from Kit, Engine, Trans, Rearend, and Wheels/tires.

You are right - I didn't have them go hog wild on the windshield so that they can cut it out later without destroying it. I'm planning on solely gel-coat miles this year, paint over the winter and then being all done!

[Stillwater35]

I re did my cooling hoses. Everyone should buy the cool tube from Bob at Boig. Really nice and way better than what you get in the kit.

Next I found a gates hose that let me get the filler higher than the radiator and as handled then job from the SBF filler to the radiator. Ive posted photos below.

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[Stillwater35]

Here’s a cut diagram from the one hose! Comments on my penmanship are summarily agreed with.

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[Stillwater35]

Today is DMV day. Wish me luck! I’ll report back on the process and the result.

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[Stillwater35]

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I’m legal! I will be making a separate thread about the whole MN registration process

Now I can check my drive line angles, have a bit of transmission vibration at 60. Had never gone that fast before.

I can also take the truck in for an alignment too, it’s too twitchy and needs one!

I got insurance through State Farm on their classics/antique policy at $19/month with the same coverage levels as my normal cars, no mileage limits and a set agreed upon replacement value.

370 days from nothing to legal. Bodywork happens this winter. But now we roll!

[Robodent]

Congrats

[herb fraser]

That's Wonderful !!!!!!

[wallace18]

Congrats!

[DamnYankee]

Awesome job, congrats

[bnelson]

Sweet!

[Stillwater35]

Just a little update:
I went on vacation to NYC and came home to a title from the Minnesota DMV. I was super surprised at 2 things - that it came so quickly and that they accepted it because the woman at the local DMV tried to register it as a 1935.

Here's a quick drive by that gives potential builders a look at some details.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knGe6W-De-0

Then here is the title. I got my desired plate of "HMBLT35"

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[Stillwater35]

Getting my alignment done and couldn't help but park with the other trucks.

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Yes - it is lower than the window sill of a stock Ram1500

[rponfick]

Looks like you have pretty good clearance at bottom of grill. What do you think your clearance is Did you adjust your springs up a lot, tire size, or to what do you attribute?

My shocks are up as far as I can get with weight off, and turning adjuster by hand. It appears impossible to get an adjuster wrench on the shocks if mounted downward as FFR suggests, which I did. I would not relish taking the whole front end off to turn them upside down.

Great job. Ralph

[Stillwater35]

The front of my frame is 4.5" and the rear is 5" off the floor. I measured this morning. I used my fingernail to count that I'm 15 threads up the sleeve on the coil over.

I was also thinking of cranking up the shocks a little bit. Have you tried a spring compressor and then spin the hats after the springs are shorter?

And yes, a Koni coilover wrench is an impossibility. Assume you can get it on, you can't move them almost at all...

[rponfick]

I just noticed the latest pdf version (April, 2019)of the assembly manual shows adding grease on the washer that the adjuster nut sits on. Also, indicates that different length shocks are now used front to rear, possibly due to frame redesign after ours.
Ralph

[Stillwater35]

This morning I put on 60 miles in a single drive. I've now got over 115 miles on after becoming legal.

It turns 1700rpm at 60.

The Trans Cooler is working great as it just stays pegged at 160 no matter what I did to it.

I lowered the tire pressure to 25 all around and it makes a world of difference. Just nice and smooth.

I finally got the secondaries opened up and man does it haul. Because it's so loud, you have to readjust your opinion of what fast sounds like.

Here is a pic of me loaded up for Crusin' on St. Croix which is a bi-weekly car meet up in Minnesota. http://cruisinonthecroix.com/

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[bnelson]

awesome. i cant wait to get to that point :) Your tie down rails worked out great :) Good luck and post pictures!

[Stillwater35]

I used the website Fiverr and had someone build me a logo. What do you all think?

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[KenWilkinson]

I used the website Fiverr and had someone build me a logo. What do you all think?

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Cool beans! What are your plans for it?

[Stillwater35]

I got them put on some Dickie's work shirts. Then once I am at the stage of paint, I might remove the truck and put a raspberry in the middle then use that for the doors. I like the look of a truck like this having a door logo.

[bnelson]

Awesome :)

[Stillwater35]

I put on over 150 miles on Saturday attending Cars and Coffee here in Minnesota. (mncandc.com). It was a great event and people really liked the truck, and especially the bed as it's functional with tie downs for camp chairs and a cooler.

No real issues driving. I have some adjustments to make to the doors but it just lumps along at 60mph and 1700 RPM. A reminder I'm running a Ford AODE and the 3.55 rear gears from a moser 8.8

There still some summer left and I hope to get well over 1,000 miles this summer / fall season. I'm at 350 now. Each drive I get more and more reminded that I built a real car, with my own 2 hands. The pride in this project just continues to grow.

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[sperger72]

The truck looks awesome. Congrats.

[Stillwater35]

Selling to make room for the next project!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40241-For-sale-Hotrod-35-Truck-Legal-Titled-and-2000-miles