SCNS 02/2014 MK4 Coyote TKO500 8.8 IRS BT

[SelectivePC]

Hello all,

Starting our shop dust collector project. Its a MK4 Roadster chassis with a 2/2014 build date. So as you can imagine we are slightly past our 45 day grace period. Any how should be a fun project, plans have switched to a 5.0 Coyote drivetrain. Just started going through our checklist for parts, and front suspension is in the works. More pictures to come soon.

7962179623796247962579622

[SerpantFL]

Greetings,

Haven't started my build yet, but after reading through some of the others, this family will be 200% alongside you as you progress. Best of luck, I will enjoy following your build and there are many solid friends here to share and rely on...

[KDubU]

Welcome aboard! Sounds like you have a plan, keep the pics coming.

[SelectivePC]

A plan for sure, 5.0 Coyote/Tremec TKO 600 edited (600ft/lb tq. rating sorry)/ 8.8 Ford 28 Spline Trac Lock. Which were ordered yesterday, waited to do so until we actually started on the project.


MKVIII IRS Housing which I will be Powder coating

https://i.imgur.com/wBFlNc0.jpg

Internals from the 97 MKVIII IRS Donor car
https://i.imgur.com/WTK18tN.jpg


Rear hub/spindal coated new bearing/studs installed to match front. Axles, upper/lower tubular controls, coils-overs to be replaced
https://i.imgur.com/FYkKtBr.jpg

Pictures of our ditched Motor :( Already has a new home, so no worries.
https://i.imgur.com/qCzfYKN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EUmpn3f.jpg

[wallace18]

Nice to see another Florida builder have some fun. I am up in Alachua, FL. PM me if you ever have any questions. I am always happy to help if I can.

[SelectivePC]

Nice to see another Florida builder have some fun. I am up in Alachua, FL. PM me if you ever have any questions. I am always happy to help if I can.

Appreciate it, located in Sarasota, FL, so a bit south of you I believe. And will do.

[Wilder]

I just ordered my 65 coupe here in Clearwater, FL. Still 30+ days away.

[SelectivePC]

I just ordered my 65 coupe here in Clearwater, FL. Still 30+ days away.

Waiting is the hardest part, lol. Trust me.

[65 Cobra Dude]

Welcome to the madness. I am located in Port Charlotte and have a Gen III about 80% complete and a Mark IV complete that I drive as much as possible. If you have any questions or would like to stop by, please PM me.

Thx,

Henry

[cwhoofgator]

Make sure and join the Deep South Cobra Club when complete. We have a lot of fun with these things..

[John Ibele]

Welcome and thanks for sharing. I used the same approach of harvesting housing and spindles from a MKVIII. You look like you know what you're doing which is more than I could say for my own skills when rebuilding the center section. All good now though. Center section is in place along with the rest of the rear suspension.

Lots of help on here for any detailed problems you run into. Good luck!

Cheers,

-- John

[SelectivePC]

Welcome and thanks for sharing. I used the same approach of harvesting housing and spindles from a MKVIII. You look like you know what you're doing which is more than I could say for my own skills when rebuilding the center section. All good now though. Center section is in place along with the rest of the rear suspension.

Lots of help on here for any detailed problems you run into. Good luck!

Cheers,

-- John

Umm maybe, not my first 8.8 I have rebuilt. But it is the first I have fitted a Trac Lok into one. So shims should be fun. The kit which will be here tomorrow.

Here are some more pictures of today's work, again waiting on the diff to finish up.


Diff housing coated :)
https://i.imgur.com/4abzSJH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MxYGQo1.jpg

Separating the ring gear from the carrier, all bearings removed.
https://i.imgur.com/jw2LHFs.jpg

New Races for pinion bearings pressed in.
https://i.imgur.com/LQDBBdZ.jpg

New oil slinger seal seated.
https://i.imgur.com/C1yMalr.jpg

Flange, pinch ring, leading pinion bearing.. all installed and ready to be tq'ed to 22in/lbs deflection/resistance.
https://i.imgur.com/UknxMYk.jpg

[Clark L Creswell]

Welcome from Melbourne Florida , looking forward to watching your build .

Clark

[SelectivePC]

Welcome from Melbourne Florida , looking forward to watching your build .

Clark

Yeah I need to have it moved over to the proper "build thread" forum here shortly lol.

[David Hodgkins]

Yeah I need to have it moved over to the proper "build thread" forum here shortly lol.

Done! And here's a thread on maintaining the build thread title as you go:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19402-Changing-The-Thread-Title-Guidelines

Welcome to the forum!

:)

Nice (big) pics! make the thread easy to read (for me at least)...

[SelectivePC]

This finally showed up today, I really am not happy with my Fedex over night service here, 10AM garenteeed, haha ok.... bunch of extra money for 3 o'clock delivery. Any ways, new 8.8 IRS Trac Lok.

https://i.imgur.com/4x4a184.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YYtdmKE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZYIDdOC.jpg

Vs. the old carrier and slippage.

https://i.imgur.com/YRkrubx.jpg

OEM Ring being seated

https://i.imgur.com/EnqvZBJ.jpg

Tourqed to 90ftlbs. with blue locktight
Starting on bearings

https://i.imgur.com/ec6DnJO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5Yr6uMz.jpg

[SelectivePC]

Also finally seated the crush ring for the pinion...it was way more difficult to get it to 20in.lbs/2.2nM of resistance then I thought it would be, but its there.



https://i.imgur.com/8OcDh76.jpg

Hard to see it because of needing to keep it moving to read.

https://i.imgur.com/MBlyB9g.jpg

[SelectivePC]

All together ready for install once the lubelocker gasket comes in new vent tube and new flange bolts for the driveshaft.

https://i.imgur.com/rckliCD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FUDM9uD.jpg

ALso got the tank assembled and installed, thinking about reworking the mounting of said tank as Im not completely happy with how its mounted.

https://i.imgur.com/o5yZLjs.jpg

[SelectivePC]

Hey guys, been busy around the shop, so I have been slaking on build updates, but more parts are on the way currently so been killing time with mustang things.

Few customer cars we worked on,

VMP TVS supercharger and billet oil gear install 2017 Mustang 5 speed car.

https://i.imgur.com/EEjC3CP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zX595Uj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OlTMX6N.jpg

2018 Mustang Single Turbo kit 10R80 Auto trans, this one is going to be a lot of fun (sorry for picture size trying to keep things under wrap till we do more testing)

https://i.imgur.com/JIA9FIn.png

https://i.imgur.com/kE6FKKX.png

[SelectivePC]

Anyways back to the MK4 just a few things here and there.

Holes drilled.

https://i.imgur.com/xduT6I7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3BbbAv6.jpg


Started removing the floors to start on them this week, hopefully.

https://i.imgur.com/0TbhE5M.jpg

And more rear-end goodies, hope to install that sometime this week as well.

https://i.imgur.com/2yPyVun.jpg

[edwardb]

Also got the tank assembled and installed, thinking about reworking the mounting of said tank as I'm not completely happy with how its mounted.

https://i.imgur.com/o5yZLjs.jpg

Your build is looking good!

The tank will fit much better if you flatten the flange around the center. Those bends for the tank straps need to be removed. Then it will fit like it's supposed to. Mentioned in the build manual, but many miss it.

[SelectivePC]

Those bends for the tank straps need to be removed. Then it will fit like it's supposed to. Mentioned in the build manual, but many miss it.

Ill have to look into these bends your talking about, and flange. Thank you.

[edwardb]

The tank will fit much better if you flatten the flange around the center. Those bends for the tank straps need to be removed. Then it will fit like it's supposed to. Mentioned in the build manual, but many miss it.


Ill have to look into these bends your talking about, and flange. Thank you.

Looking at my post, flattened would be a much better word than removed. Don't want to give the wrong idea. No material is removed. I use a large adjustable wrench and pinching the metal, slowly/carefully work the flange back out to flat and level at the four locations it's bent. There is a weld going through those areas between the top and bottom halves. So you want to use some care. But I've never had any issues afterwards. Check the build manual for the fuel tank installation and you'll see this mentioned and maybe even pictured. You want the flange to sit flat on the four plastic cushions in the frame. It won't with the bends still there. I think you'll find it actually fits quite well.

[SelectivePC]

Looking at my post, flattened would be a much better word than removed. Don't want to give the wrong idea. No material is removed. I use a large adjustable wrench and pinching the metal, slowly/carefully work the flange back out to flat and level at the four locations it's bent. There is a weld going through those areas between the top and bottom halves. So you want to use some care. But I've never had any issues afterwards. Check the build manual for the fuel tank installation and you'll see this mentioned and maybe even pictured. You want the flange to sit flat on the four plastic cushions in the frame. It won't with the bends still there. I think you'll find it actually fits quite well.


OK, I understand now, easy enough. Tomorrow it shall be done.

[SelectivePC]

So come to find out the rear hubs from a Lincoln Mk8 are different from the standard IRS hubs from a foxbody. The kit is from 2014 and just getting started on now, but wasnt noticed untill now, FFR has a revised kit available currently. So these were ordered to fix the problem and installed today.

https://i.imgur.com/TaYoeR1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RQVWOgr.jpg

Bolt Pattern difference, whoops

https://i.imgur.com/mPet7x8.jpg

All done

https://i.imgur.com/pkAye9u.jpg

Next up is to properly fit the gas tank noticed by edwardb, and install the diff while im down there, Should be fun by myself ;)

[SelectivePC]

Home sweet home. Only nicked the powder once on the bottom. Easy touch up.

https://i.imgur.com/DP1gOVe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/99KI9sc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/h9VzftP.jpg

[SelectivePC]

Good evening lady's and gents. Small update, tank is in its finally placement. Did a little research and our small 1x1 plastic plugs were not shipped in our kit. But easy enough and i'm sure these little rubber spacers will do the trick.

https://i.imgur.com/msunB5M.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3pQrTd1.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/t7OWoaU.jpg

Sits up and way closer to the frame now, and is a whole lot more solid feeling, doesn't move a bit. Thanks again edwardb.


So tomorrow starts the brake lines, found a pretty good write up on them, shouldn't be too difficult.

https://i.imgur.com/3VukpWn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/18rcy12.jpg

[SerpantFL]

Selective, Nice work. That IRS looks sharp in there. I recall an earlier post regarding the IRS and rear battery box issues, have you made a decision as to front or rear batt install?

[SelectivePC]

Selective, Nice work. That IRS looks sharp in there. I recall an earlier post regarding the IRS and rear battery box issues, have you made a decision as to front or rear batt install?

Thank you sir, Not as of yet, but we are a dealer for Braille, so i'm sure wherever we decide to place it, its not going to be a problem tucking it away somewhere. I have seen a few threads of people mounting Optima batteries up in the front, so that may be an option. Otherwise I can just adjust the mounting from the manual.

[mcwho]

Make sure and join the Deep South Cobra Club when complete. We have a lot of fun with these things..
Thought I would chime in here, also in Florida, halfway between Orlando and Daytona. I will make on of the DSCC events eventually.

[SelectivePC]

Thought I would chime in here, also in Florida, halfway between Orlando and Daytona. I will make on of the DSCC events eventually.

Cool, I passed through there a few weeks ago for the Rolex 24HR Daytona race. Those are always fun.

[SelectivePC]

Hello All,

Finished the rear brake hard lines today. Not too difficult after looking through edwardb's brake install. Tried to follow it as much as possible, as he did a super nice install. Couldn't get as tight of bends with my tool, but they don't look horrible for a basic Harbor Freight bending tool, Better tools are ordered and on the way. Any who, here's a few pics.

https://i.imgur.com/gjyrZNA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/itrC7AM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JcFxwTk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hof9Udx.jpg

[SerpantFL]

Don't knock yourself, I have used cheap tools also and had less success. The lines came out well even though they may not look factory to you. I bought a Rigid tubing bender after many tries at it with a lesser tool. You can shine with the fuel lines...

[edwardb]

Looking good. Worked on brake lines myself today on the Coupe build. One thing I notice from your pictures. You have the older style Factory Five clutch cable mod for the Wilwood box. I hate to be the one to tell you this, but that one has been troublesome. To the point where they redesigned it. Instead of being offset and putting side load torque on the pedal and pivot that it was never designed for, the new version fits directly over the clutch pedal and pulls in line with the pedal and pivot. It's shown in these newer instructions: http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PEDALBOX-WILWOOD-NEW.pdf. In addition to obtained the newer parts, you would need to move the hole for the clutch cable over. Something you may want to consider. Relatively easy to do now. Wouldn't be fun to fix the current one or try to install the new design once your build is finished. Maybe some others have opinions about whether it's worth it to change. I've only used hydraulic on the Wilwood pedal box, so I'm far from an expert on the subject. Only know about the reported failures and the redesign that's been standard on all kits for several years.

[SelectivePC]

Looking good. Worked on brake lines myself today on the Coupe build. One thing I notice from your pictures. You have the older style Factory Five clutch cable mod for the Wilwood box. I hate to be the one to tell you this, but that one has been troublesome. To the point where they redesigned it. Instead of being offset and putting side load torque on the pedal and pivot that it was never designed for, the new version fits directly over the clutch pedal and pulls in line with the pedal and pivot. It's shown in these newer instructions: http://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PEDALBOX-WILWOOD-NEW.pdf. In addition to obtained the newer parts, you would need to move the hole for the clutch cable over. Something you may want to consider. Relatively easy to do now. Wouldn't be fun to fix the current one or try to install the new design once your build is finished. Maybe some others have opinions about whether it's worth it to change. I've only used hydraulic on the Wilwood pedal box, so I'm far from an expert on the subject. Only know about the reported failures and the redesign that's been standard on all kits for several years.

I have seen a different type of over the pedal your talking about. Still up in the air on if we want to use a Hydraulic or cable. Worst case we will just get the update over the pedal version.

On a side not, I didn't realize the motor we received earlier this month, wasn't actually for this Cobra, it was for another one of our resto mod projects. A 66 Mustang I believe.

https://i.imgur.com/NxiDEFO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OGP3KgZ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mfV5MJc.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EfIBcy0.jpg

Another 5.0 motor out of a F150 long-block for the MK4 will arrive this week sometime. Along with a Holley EFI ECU and wiring system, Holley heads up display, GPS, and Cam controller. Surprisingly, they had an overstock sale through our main vender (Turn14) for the set up. Ended up being cheaper to do this then too buy a motor set with the harness and pcm pedal set, blah blah.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/hp_efi/ecu_and_harness_kits/ford_modular_and_coyote_engine_plug_and_play_kits/parts/550-618N

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/gauges_and_displays/parts/553-106

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/fuel_injection_components/modules/parts/554-140

So it'll be like Christmas this week. Cant wait.

[SelectivePC]

Don't knock yourself, I have used cheap tools also and had less success. The lines came out well even though they may not look factory to you. I bought a Rigid tubing bender after many tries at it with a lesser tool. You can shine with the fuel lines...

Fortunately enough we are using a 5.0 Coyote motor so a larger pump and AN lines will be used for this setup. So just routing them will be needed.

But I was thoroughly impressed by how well they can be hid, and after seeing how EdwardB did his, I was able to get it knocked out.

[SelectivePC]

So the cobras motor has finally made it too the building. Now need to order a oil pan, forgot about that little detail.

https://i.imgur.com/XVIZUpY.jpg

Also finished up the front brakes, ended up having to make some brackets, as the second set were not in the kit. Not too difficult.

https://i.imgur.com/lJD5XoA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1zRaxmx.jpg

All better

https://i.imgur.com/gGA2kKA.jpg

Again trying to follow EdwardB's brake line set-up. Not perfect, but not horrible.

https://i.imgur.com/G5r1Vuf.jpg

Not being able to make that tight of bends again, had to make this contraption.

https://i.imgur.com/KacnKOU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZCmZEBX.jpg

[SelectivePC]

Brakes before

https://i.imgur.com/ViXENbw.jpg

After coating

https://i.imgur.com/p3dcFCt.jpg

[SelectivePC]

So resealed front timing cover, installed billet oil pump gears, and back together, ready for an acid bath and paint. Owner wants the motor painted like an older Ford motor, so that's the plan I suppose. May look weird, but too each their own.

https://i.imgur.com/HRGtjlH.jpg

Also goodies have started to arrive, cant wait for everything to show, but I can continue on the plumbing of fuel lines now so i'm happy.

https://i.imgur.com/ZcmzxcF.jpg

And we have a brian box and harness as well. Super nice wiring if anyone is interested in Holley Dominator stuff in the future, looks too be a super easy to read harness.

https://i.imgur.com/7niDYKF.jpg

[SelectivePC]

Need to do a bit of research on the oil pan and pick-up sets the other guys are using, and also the motor mount situation, as the used motor company pulled or motor mount brackets and mounts. *******s.

I have seen a lot of the Moroso's used, but don't know if there is a difference in them. So time to start googleing.

[edwardb]

Need to do a bit of research on the oil pan and pick-up sets the other guys are using, and also the motor mount situation, as the used motor company pulled or motor mount brackets and mounts. *******s.

I have seen a lot of the Moroso's used, but don't know if there is a difference in them. So time to start googleing.

The Moroso setup everyone is using with the Coyote is a Moroso 20570 pan with Moroso 24570 pickup. I'm not aware of another brand option, although maybe there is one.

For motor and transmission mounts, the common setup is the Energy Suspension 4.1127G 4.6L Mustang Motor Mounts and the Energy Suspension 4.1104G Transmission Mount. You'll want to add the 1/2-inch spacers that Factory Five makes for inside the motor mounts. Part of their Coyote installation package. But available separately.

Couple of other points. Looks like an F150 Coyote? That oil filter orientation is different than the Mustang, and as I recall that's one of the differences. Regardless, the oil cooler won't fit and probably you'll need to turn the oil filter or use a remote. Also, since you do have an older kit, I'm assuming you still have the older style footbox aluminum? A lot has changed since then for Coyote installations. Factory Five used to use sheet metal that also was for the older 4.6 mod motor. But it's an interference fit for the Coyote unless you tip the engine over, plus it takes a big bite out of the footbox space. There is newer sheet metal that fixes both. Gives room for the Coyote plus restores the lost footbox space. This was recently discussed in another forum post, so maybe you saw that or already knew about it.

[SelectivePC]

The Moroso setup everyone is using with the Coyote is a Moroso 20570 pan with Moroso 24570 pickup. I'm not aware of another brand option, although maybe there is one.

For motor and transmission mounts, the common setup is the Energy Suspension 4.1127G 4.6L Mustang Motor Mounts and the Energy Suspension 4.1104G Transmission Mount. You'll want to add the 1/2-inch spacers that Factory Five makes for inside the motor mounts. Part of their Coyote installation package. But available separately.

Couple of other points. Looks like an F150 Coyote? That oil filter orientation is different than the Mustang, and as I recall that's one of the differences. Regardless, the oil cooler won't fit and probably you'll need to turn the oil filter or use a remote. Also, since you do have an older kit, I'm assuming you still have the older style footbox aluminum? A lot has changed since then for Coyote installations. Factory Five used to use sheet metal that also was for the older 4.6 mod motor. But it's an interference fit for the Coyote unless you tip the engine over, plus it takes a big bite out of the footbox space. There is newer sheet metal that fixes both. Gives room for the Coyote plus restores the lost footbox space. This was recently discussed in another forum post, so maybe you saw that or already knew about it.

Yes it it out of a 2014 F150, and we will be doing a remote filter and removing that awkward filter housing mount. Thank you for the part numbers, and ill be giving FFR a call about the foot panels, I haven't really looked into the panels yet, but i can already tell its going to be a tight fit. That part number for the trans mount will work with the TKO trans?

[edwardb]

That part number for the trans mount will work with the TKO trans?

Yes. Same one used on my previous TKO builds and now T-56 build. FYI, Factory Five does use an extension plate for the TKO when used with a Coyote in the Roadster. Moves the mount back since the Coyote is a bit shorter than other engines. Visible in this picture if you zoom in on the transmission mount area:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/th_IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg.html)

For the footbox sheet metal, just an encouragement to also consider the footbox space in addition to the engine space. The new sheetmetal addresses both. This picture shows a Coyote build with the previous mod motor sheet metal. Note how it was necessary to tip the accelerator pedal over plus narrow the clutch pedal. It's still really tight even with these changes. The new sheetmetal gives a couple inches of space in the area of the accelerator pedal, and it makes a huge difference. I wasn't going to do a Coyote build until this was addressed. After driving two previous SBF builds I wasn't willing to live with less space in an already tight area.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_5d443c82-65f1-4a8d-bd78-1ddbbcef7c7e_zpsm7rxvtwk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/5d443c82-65f1-4a8d-bd78-1ddbbcef7c7e_zpsm7rxvtwk.jpg.html)

[SelectivePC]

Yes. Same one used on my previous TKO builds and now T-56 build. FYI, Factory Five does use an extension plate for the TKO when used with a Coyote in the Roadster. Moves the mount back since the Coyote is a bit shorter than other engines. Visible in this picture if you zoom in on the transmission mount area:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/th_IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg.html)

For the footbox sheet metal, just an encouragement to also consider the footbox space in addition to the engine space. The new sheetmetal addresses both. This picture shows a Coyote build with the previous mod motor sheet metal. Note how it was necessary to tip the accelerator pedal over plus narrow the clutch pedal. It's still really tight even with these changes. The new sheetmetal gives a couple inches of space in the area of the accelerator pedal, and it makes a huge difference. I wasn't going to do a Coyote build until this was addressed. After driving two previous SBF builds I wasn't willing to live with less space in an already tight area.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_5d443c82-65f1-4a8d-bd78-1ddbbcef7c7e_zpsm7rxvtwk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/5d443c82-65f1-4a8d-bd78-1ddbbcef7c7e_zpsm7rxvtwk.jpg.html)


Ok, I am running a standard cable driven throttle body, so i'm retaining the stock pedal the kit came with, and running the cable that comes in the throttle body kit. Using the Holley EFI system and completely getting rid of the factory pedal BS, so foot room shouldn't be to bad in there.

I will however need to call them about that mount spacer, or make one :)

[edwardb]

Ok, I am running a standard cable driven throttle body, so i'm retaining the stock pedal the kit came with, and running the cable that comes in the throttle body kit. Using the Holley EFI system and completely getting rid of the factory pedal BS, so foot room shouldn't be to bad in there.

A traditional accelerator pedal vs. the Coyote DBW module doesn't have any bearing on available footspace. If you were to see the old vs. newer sheet metal side-by-side you would see the difference. Good luck whatever you decide.

[SelectivePC]

A traditional accelerator pedal vs. the Coyote DBW module doesn't have any bearing on available footspace. If you were to see the old vs. newer sheet metal side-by-side you would see the difference. Good luck whatever you decide.

I'm not against it at all, I mean if it works and frees up some foot box space and doesn't have too much of a FFR tax attached to the price lol, im all for it. Ill have to call them in the AM, didn't get around too it was busy installing a bad *** hand me down from a customer. See next post. :)

[SelectivePC]

So one of our very good customers with a fancy Foxbody, needed us to install a fuel cell, and triple pump setup in his car. So we asked what he was doing with his old setup, and long behold....I own it now :)

Mehh (Side note, I did not loosen the bolts holding the rear portion of the straps and bent them, and and now have a new set on order already Ha whoops)

https://i.imgur.com/amIvwaJ.jpg

But hey new toys

https://i.imgur.com/mZidHNh.jpg

And installed

https://i.imgur.com/yBr4tdX.jpg

Aeromotive A1000 built into a Foxbody tank.... Not shabby at all, should suffice for the Coyote.

https://i.imgur.com/wivw7Rz.jpg

On a side note, these also showed up today. Quality is amazing again with this Holley EFI stuff...cant wait to get it into action

https://i.imgur.com/P5kdZtQ.jpg

[SelectivePC]

A few more goodies, thanks again EdwardB, for the quick response and part numbers.

Mounts

https://i.imgur.com/E2vekvZ.jpg

Oil pan and pick-up

https://i.imgur.com/H0Bc2Ah.jpg

Also starting the fuel system this evening :)

-6 all the way

https://i.imgur.com/rRPLowP.jpg



On a side note, has anyone left the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) towards the rear of the car near the tank, or as close to the motor as possible like usual. Only reason I ask, is because the newer mustangs (5.0 based) have a in tank, (in pump actually) regulator. I may be over thinking it, but I was thinking of just running one single line to the front for a feed instead of a feed and return, and leave the FPR more towards the tank area?? Any input would be great. Thanks guys.

[edwardb]

On a side note, has anyone left the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) towards the rear of the car near the tank, or as close to the motor as possible like usual. Only reason I ask, is because the newer mustangs (5.0 based) have a in tank, (in pump actually) regulator. I may be over thinking it, but I was thinking of just running one single line to the front for a feed instead of a feed and return, and leave the FPR more towards the tank area?? Any input would be great. Thanks guys.

I've noticed a number of Coyote builds using a fixed pressure regulator/filter near the tank with a short return line and only running the single supply line to the engine compartment with excellent results. Breeze sells a kit that uses (I believe) this particular regulator. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=1185. I did my Coyote Roadster with 3/8-inch supply and return lines to the engine compartment, and doing the same with the Coupe build. Just finishing them up today. I'm kind of stuck on having the pressure adjustable and also prefer to regulate the pressure at the end of the line not at the beginning. But I'm not an expert in fluid mechanics (hardly...) so can't say whether the difference is worth talking about. I'm sure either way is fine. BTW, I wouldn't draw too many comparisons to the Mustang fuel delivery system. It may have a return line to the tank (I really don't know...) but the Mustang by definition is a returnless system. The fuel pump running and resultant pressure is controlled by the PCM. For the crate Coyote, Ford changed this to a return system where the pump runs wide open all the time and the excess fuel is returned to the tank.

[SelectivePC]

I've noticed a number of Coyote builds using a fixed pressure regulator/filter near the tank with a short return line and only running the single supply line to the engine compartment with excellent results. Breeze sells a kit that uses (I believe) this particular regulator. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=1185. I did my Coyote Roadster with 3/8-inch supply and return lines to the engine compartment, and doing the same with the Coupe build. Just finishing them up today. I'm kind of stuck on having the pressure adjustable and also prefer to regulate the pressure at the end of the line not at the beginning. But I'm not an expert in fluid mechanics (hardly...) so can't say whether the difference is worth talking about. I'm sure either way is fine. BTW, I wouldn't draw too many comparisons to the Mustang fuel delivery system. It may have a return line to the tank (I really don't know...) but the Mustang by definition is a returnless system. The fuel pump running and resultant pressure is controlled by the PCM. For the crate Coyote, Ford changed this to a return system where the pump runs wide open all the time and the excess fuel is returned to the tank.


Good enough for me, sounds like ill be running both lines which i'm fine with, just a wondering mind :)

Got the motor all painted up. Cute little blue berry.

https://i.imgur.com/P37vGhy.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lnX3RHS.jpg

Now for some more powder coating and we will be getting a first fitment of the motor in, too see what we are going to be doing about headers. Again having a different approach to the build. Wanting to go against the grain and not use the usual side exit exhaust. Time will tell though, may end up changing it.

[Straversi]

That painted block is going to look great. If I had it to do over....

-Steve

[SelectivePC]

That painted block is going to look great. If I had it to do over....

-Steve

I was a little worried about it at the start, but its growing on me.

[SelectivePC]

Small little update, set the motor in to make up our own spacers for the motor mounts, which turned out perfect. Trans will be going in sometime this next week if I can get a lift to open up. Here's a few pictures.

Oil pan test fitted, had to check pick-up depth just to make sure.

https://i.imgur.com/LF99ilE.jpg

Motor set in for test fit.

https://i.imgur.com/YlY2IoW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WWIRb1c.jpg

Spacers installed to elevate the motor a tiny bit.

https://i.imgur.com/1nngryh.jpg

[SelectivePC]

Also this was kind of irritating me and the new tools came in finally so I redid this line.

https://i.imgur.com/CKVNbPT.jpg

New line route, may end up redoing a few other lines I noticed as well.

https://i.imgur.com/0VhiTi0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZPRK5SN.jpg

Its way better looking, and supported correctly now also.