new owner questions about adjusting wheelbase

[hutchjc1]

Hello, I Bought my car in the beginning of December and have a few questions. I am in Maryland so I have the winter to play with the car before I get to play with it so I am trying to adjust a few things to my taste, the original owner / builder did a great job and nothing major needs done to it just "making it mine ".
A bit about it, all the parts used were new and the car has 225 miles on it so there are still some bugs to work out. It has a 480 horse LS3 with a TKO500, A/C, 3 link, hard top with power windows, it has full fenders ( which I have removed as I like it better with out ) and a really nice paint job.

My first task was to change the springs to 250# in the rear and move the 350# from the rear to the fronts, next I am going to move the rear back to better fit into the wheel wells. My plan is to add adjustable lower control arms, adjust the length or the 3rd link to match the amount added to the lowers and verify the pinion angle to match the before amount. I need to clearance the bracket at the front of the shock bottoms to allow the slight tilting of the shocks, and verify clearance of the banana bracket to the trunk cover, the builder did a very nice job of welding the banana bracket and tubes so that part is done. I will also add a driveshaft spacer to accommodate the added length. I think that is everything but wanted to see if I was missing anything, for those that have done this or have thought about it does this sound like a workable plan ? Anything I did not think of that may bite me ? I am also thinking about a bracket to strengthen the banana bracket ( like those mentioned in other posts )
I look forward to being part of the family even though I had to buy my way in.....
Thanks for any help.
Jim

[NAZ]

Yes, that sounds like a workable plan. For clearance on the lower shock mounts (the ones on the axle) I simply cut out a half-circle with a hole saw. This makes a very neat way to get clearance and if you didn't know better would think it was from the factory that way. Use a hole saw a size or two smaller than the I.D. of the bracket so you don't cut into the bracket flanges. Start your pilot hole just south of the edge of the bracket and you'll have plenty of shock clearance. All you will need is to de-burr the cuts and rattle can paint to match.

If you're still using the Ford style pinion flange mount I see no reason a spacer will not work. I've never see them but then I don't run these flange mounts I always swap to a larger conventional yoke mount for more strength. I'm guessing you have if you mentioned using one.

I lengthened my wheelbase to center the wheels as I'm set up to run 30" diameter tires and centering the axle in the rear fenders was required to run that big of a tire. Not sure you will have enough adjustment on your UCA but if not, you can probably find another the correct length. I fabricated all new UCA and LCA's and my rear suspension is modified so I just don't know if the standard UCA has enough adjustment of not.

[hutchjc1]

Sounds like a good way to clearance the brackets I had not thought of that, I expected to cut and grind. I have the drive shaft spacer and LCA's are on the way, I would hope there is enough length in the upper but if not easy enough to make. I should have put more thought into this earlier as I have already had the shocks off to add the new springs... nothing like doing things twice !
Thanks for the reply.

[HVACMAN]

7945779458

NAZ is right. The mod for the shock clearance is super easy.

[DaveS53]

Ride Tech has a new rod end that look promising, but they're kind of pricey at $80.

http://www.ridetech.com/products/r-joint/

Art Morrison has stainless steel rod ends with poly bushings that are half the price. I used these along with chrome moly steel "swedged tubes" from speedway to create my own control arms for about $100 each.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-4-Inch-Chromoly-Swedged-Tubes,49375.html

[RickyD]

Google and shop for Johnny joints, availabe at all the common suppliers. I have them on my 4 link.

[HVACMAN]

Yes, that sounds like a workable plan. For clearance on the lower shock mounts (the ones on the axle) I simply cut out a half-circle with a hole saw. This makes a very neat way to get clearance and if you didn't know better would think it was from the factory that way. Use a hole saw a size or two smaller than the I.D. of the bracket so you don't cut into the bracket flanges. Start your pilot hole just south of the edge of the bracket and you'll have plenty of shock clearance. All you will need is to de-burr the cuts and rattle can paint to match.

If you're still using the Ford style pinion flange mount I see no reason a spacer will not work. I've never see them but then I don't run these flange mounts I always swap to a larger conventional yoke mount for more strength. I'm guessing you have if you mentioned using one.

I lengthened my wheelbase to center the wheels as I'm set up to run 30" diameter tires and centering the axle in the rear fenders was required to run that big of a tire. Not sure you will have enough adjustment on your UCA but if not, you can probably find another the correct length. I fabricated all new UCA and LCA's and my rear suspension is modified so I just don't know if the standard UCA has enough adjustment of not.

NAZ,

What did you wind up with for the final wheel base? I would like to run 30" tires also.

[NAZ]

Andy, I'm at 113.0" on the WB. But it does take a bit more than just centering the axle in the rear fenders to run 30" tires. You will have to run a higher rear ride height than the car was designed for and that means you have to be able to adjust the LCA mounting height also. If you simply jack up the rear of the car you will have your LCAs angled up in front which changes the instant center and will create roll steer. So you'll want to either change the front LCA mounts or the rears to allow you to adjust the LCAs so they are parallel to the ground. A slight angle up may be acceptable depending on what your plans are for the car but you never want them angled down in the front.

[Arrowhead]

I'm running 29" tall tires with a four link so I had to lower the front mounts for the upper control arms, lower the shock mounts and convert the upper and lower control arms to adjustable by welding on threaded bungs and Heim joints to adjust the wheel base. By chance the stock rear lower control arm bolt holes on the axle actually worked out pretty good instead of using the holes in the FFR bracket.

This is a progress picture during re assembly (at full droop), the FFR brackets aren't on but I am using them.

80231

[DaveS53]

An adjustable lower axle bracket and shock mount would be an improvement.

http://www.ridetech.com/products/components/mounts-and-brackets/tri-link-axle-bracket/

http://www.ridetech.com/products/components/shock-brackets/billet-shockwave-lower-rear-mount/

[myjones]

I lengthened my wheelbase to center the wheels as I'm set up to run 30" diameter tires and centering the axle in the rear fenders was required to run that big of a tire. I fabricated all new UCA and LCA's and my rear suspension is modified so I just don't know if the standard UCA has enough adjustment of not.

" Not sure you will have enough adjustment on your UCA but if not, you can probably find another the correct length."

I was one of the early ones to correct the wheelbase and 113 or a 1" add is what matches the body best. IIRC you can buy an off the shelf UCA
for a turbo coupe or super coupe and it will be 1" longer than the FF part. The good aftermarket ones will have the heims and be adjustable in
place with the L&R hand threads so you just loosen the jam nuts and crank away until the pinion angle is correct then jam it all up again.
I'm running a bit higher ride height as well and the second hole for the back of the lower CA gave me the right IC.

I want to run taller tires as well but with full fenders it will require a full re-work of the rear fenders and even the wheel tubs in the body so I
haven't tackled that part of the build yet.
HTH
Dale

[erlihemi]

If you can't go taller, Just go fatter...Still talking bout the tires Dale:)

[myjones]

If you can't go taller, Just go fatter...Still talking bout the tires Dale:)

Glad you cleared that up for me, as I age I seem to be following that path. :rolleyes:
BUT;
On the tires, there is a huge difference in contact patch gain going taller and a much smaller gain from going wider.
Look at top fuel cars and you will always see the tall back tires for that reason. EH likely already knows this but the
Non-Hemi crowd may not have had the traction challenges us Mopar guys fight all the time. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)
Dale

[HVACMAN]

Andy, I'm at 113.0" on the WB. But it does take a bit more than just centering the axle in the rear fenders to run 30" tires. You will have to run a higher rear ride height than the car was designed for and that means you have to be able to adjust the LCA mounting height also. If you simply jack up the rear of the car you will have your LCAs angled up in front which changes the instant center and will create roll steer. So you'll want to either change the front LCA mounts or the rears to allow you to adjust the LCAs so they are parallel to the ground. A slight angle up may be acceptable depending on what your plans are for the car but you never want them angled down in the front.

Thanks NAZ. My lower control arms have two vertical mounting points in the rear. I guess once the car nears completion and I set the final ride height I will have a better idea for the size wheel/tire combo I can run. Except that will all change with a taller wheel/tire combination? For the time being I have a set of 245/35R20's on Foose wheels to roll it around on.