Fabb's MK4 Coyote Build Thread

[Fabb]

Having read thru many great build threads and taking much inspiration from you all, I figured I should share my plans now that I am moving into the order phase, and then I will use this thread to share my build as it progresses.

I want to get my order placed this week and would appreciate feedback from you all to make sure I fix any mistakes here.

My goal is to have a fun car I can enjoy and use and not just a garage queen. I do want to go to car shows for fun but I figure this wont be my last car built, so I want to learn and enjoy and use the car I finish here. I have a 14yo daughter and 11yo son that I want to enjoy the build with me as well.

So, my order plan is:
FFR Complete Kit w/IRS
Coyote motor & TKO600

My selections from FFR in the complete kit order

Frame: Powder coating #12189, Body Cutouts #12070
Motor:
a. Stainless Coyote Headers #16295
b. Coyote Power Steer #16137
Suspension: 2015 IRS #15942
Brakes: Wilwood upgrades #15370 front & #15988 rear
Interior:
a. Competition Leather seats #13852
b. GPS Gauges #16004

Additional options from FFR to get now

Motor: Coyote install kit parts #15432
Chassis & Suspension:
a. IRS center section, spindles & hubs
b. Sway bars front & rear #16116, #15998
Wheels:
a. 17" wheels #14865 <or>
b. 18" wheels #15812
Exterior: Chrome Rollbar + Passenger #15101 & #15107

Additional options to decide on soon (don't think I have to resolve these before the main order)

Stainless Bumpers #15330
Wind wings #12049
Sun Visors #12042
Heater/defroster #14816

Open questions (in addition to general feedback)

Side pipes - go with FFR or Gas-N?
Coyote Power Steering Kit - seen wareaglescott complaints and sbhunter's thread suggests this is improved. Good to go or look elsewhere?
Seats - Haven't finalized my pick yet (just deciding between the diff Kirkey options), is it worth resolving now and ordering from FFR or go to summit/etc?
Koni Shocks - are the FFR upgrades here necessary/good or including equip is fine or look elsewhere? (links?)
EFI Fuel System - do I need to get this part from FFR (#33862)
Motor - order from Mike Forte? Others?
Wheels - 17" or 18"?
Discounts - I have read about the 50/50 deals in the past, any advice on either timing or deal opty's?


Thanks in advance!
-B

[edwardb]

Welcome. Looks like a very nice build. Many similarities to my #8674 Anniversary build. You'll love how it runs and drives. Fun to build too. Some feedback on some of your questions:

- I like the Gas-N pipes very much. But it's not a decision you need to make on day 1. If you're thinking of going that way, get your kit with the plain steel pipes. They will work for initial mock-ups, first starts, even go-kart if you want. If you're not happy with them, you can sell them and move to the Gas-N's. I recommend the Gas-N's over the Factory Five SS optional pipes.

- My understanding is the Coyote power steering kit now has KRC pump components. If you can confirm that, those are very high quality and different than what they provided before. I too have seen some less than favorable comments about the provided rack and also the generic rubber hoses. Perhaps these have been changed or upgraded as well.

- The stock Koni red shocks are just fine for most uses, especially for street cruising. The upgraded Koni double adjustable shocks are cool looking, but to be honest probably don't add much for the average driver and they're not cheap. Yes, there are other shock options outside of Factory Five. But sounds to me like you'd be just fine with the stock red Koni's.

- 17 versus 18 inch wheels is pretty much a discussion about available tires. Side by side, they don't look that different IMO. Today there are maybe a couple of more tire options for the 17 inch. But in the future, that's probably changing as the industry keeps heading toward larger wheels.

- The Mustang IRS center section and knuckles/hubs are pretty generic and can be purchased a number of places. Even through salvage if you're willing to do a little shopping and clean-up and save some $$. The Factory Five price is OK, but similar (or a little less) for new is available elsewhere. Unless they include them in some kind of sale. There is an advantage to having them delivered with the kit. The center section is heavy (even the aluminum version) and home delivery typically is via truck freight. I always say this though -- confirm the ratio Factory Five is providing and that it meets your build plan. Pretty sure they provide the 3.55 version, which is probably the most common. But I'd still check. Also not sure if they're providing the aluminum or iron case. Either is fine although the aluminum version is 20 pounds or so lighter.

Good luck and welcome!

[Jdav]

A few notes to add.
The "Additional options to decide on soon" - you can make changes to your order up until it ships out. While these items won't be needed right away, you will save on shipping if you order them with your main order.
I've seen very few people using the full front bumper, I chose full rear bumper and front and rear overriders - its all just a preference in looks.
I am not using a Heater/defroster. I have heard that unless you plan on a roof at some point, its not terribly effective. I did heated seats instead and happy with that decision.
I got the SS FFR pipes as part of a sale they were running at the time. I've only driven the car a 150 miles so far, but I found the volume to be quieter than expected. However, it is my understanding that the FFR pipes will get louder over time/miles and then is when people start to have issues. EdwardB's suggestion is probably a good one.
I also got the Coyote Power Steering kit (delivered about 1 year ago) and also had an issue where the first rack had kinked lines. FFR sent a replacement and that one was fine. Again, I dont have many miles on it, but I've had no other issues.
EFI Fuel System - you wont need this with the Coyote

[wareaglescott]

Like Jdav says the heater supposedly isn't great without a top. I ordered it, started installing it and decided I just wasn't feeling it. Sold it and went with heated seats. Have been driving with temp in the low 40 degree range the last month or so. The seat heaters keep me nice and warm. The airflow around my face and hands are the areas that get cold at that temp. I just cant see a heater helping much in those areas. To much outside airflow coming in I believe would just overpower any airflow from the heater.
Kirkey seats - ffr sells the 16" width. I am 6'3 and 215. Very snug fit for me. They are fine but had I known I would have just ordered the 17" from summit. The time i looked specifically summit was actually cheaper. I would consider just getting from summit. 17" will fit. They also have 18" but I don't think that would fit in MK4.
Bumpers - I ordered the front hoop. When it came time to install I didn't like that either and decided to just scrap it and just do the overriders on the front. Full bumper on the rear looks great.
I think the wind wings and sun visors are a must have.

[Fabb]

Thanks for all the feedback. Ordering tomorrow (if all goes well).

Based on all I have learned, the updates are:
1. Gas-N side pipes
2. Kirkeys via the aftermarket, so will just take the standard seats in the order from FFR (edit, likely going with the Kirkey 55170 17" High Back)
3. Over-riders only (no bumpers)
4. Dropping the heater, which means the dash with the glovebox is a maybe now. I like what EdwardB did, but not sure I am patient/skilled enough to do myself.
5. Koni shock upgrades - no

And my new questions:
1. Motor - learned from FFR that they are selling Coyote kits directly themselves now, anyone done this and good/bad idea? Seems to be purely a price decision here (go with best deal among FFR, Forte, etc).
2. IRS confusion - I think to get my order right, I have to get the IRS kit from FFR (#15942). Then I have to get a separate Center section (3.55), Spindles, & knuckles/hubs (#16126 from FFR or separately from Forte/etc). There is nothing else right? And again, this is just a price decision, right?
3. Bellhousing - I saw a couple folks went with quick time bellhousing, any advice/suggestions here? I am not planning on a lot of track time, but never say never.

Thanks again.
-B

[wareaglescott]

I got the complete IRS and everything I needed from FFR. Maybe they have changed what they are offering since I ordered but I think you should be able to get it all from them.
I did not go with the quick time bell housing. No complaints from using the Ford one. EdwardB would be a good one to speak to the advantages of the Quicktime. If he does not chime in again I would recommend messaging him.
Yes on the Coyote just go with the best price. All the same. I got mine here as they had good prices at the time. You may want to check them out. https://fordracingpartsbydonwood.com

[edwardb]

Thanks for all the feedback. Ordering tomorrow (if all goes well).

And my new questions:
1. Motor - learned from FFR that they are selling Coyote kits directly themselves now, anyone done this and good/bad idea? Seems to be purely a price decision here (go with best deal among FFR, Forte, etc).
2. IRS confusion - I think to get my order right, I have to get the IRS kit from FFR (#15942). Then I have to get a separate Center section (3.55), Spindles, & knuckles/hubs (#16126 from FFR or separately from Forte/etc). There is nothing else right? And again, this is just a price decision, right?
3. Bellhousing - I saw a couple folks went with quick time bellhousing, any advice/suggestions here? I am not planning on a lot of track time, but never say never.

Thanks again.
-B

My thoughts FWIW:

1. I have no experience with ordering the Coyote and related from Factory Five. That's something pretty recent. I did see someone post a picture of a Coyote that came from Factory Five. Had a pretty cool rolling cart and lift points on the engine. Won't get that from the Ford Performance wood and cardboard crate. But the bottom line IMO is these engines are basically a commodity. Just about everyone sells them, but they're usually being drop shipped from the Ford Performance distribution center in Michigan. Shipping is typically free. The warranty is provided by Ford no matter where you buy them. The technical support help desk from Ford is pretty good. Bottom line, I'm also a price shopper on this one and there's money to be saved if you shop around.

2. Yes, that's correct. The IRS option and the IRS center section and spindles/knuckles. You don't list rear brakes but that has to be purchased no matter which rear suspension you choose. It's only a price decision? I guess so. Also makes a difference in how the car rides, which I can personally vouch for as I mentioned before. We like it a lot. Supposed to also be the best performance, but for your use doesn't sound like that's a big deal. How much is that worth? You have to decide. FWIW, it will also affect the resale value. An IRS car is simply worth more than a solid axle car. People usually say they don't care about resale because they're never going to sell the car. But it happens. I wouldn't make a decision because of that alone, but it's something to put on the list.

3. For your TKO, you do have the option of an aluminum bell or the QuickTime steel bell. Roughly a $200 price difference, the QuickTime bell obviously being more. Really a personal decision. Some want the added security of the steel bell because that spinning flywheel and clutch are inches away from you and your passenger. Others properly cite those rarely if ever fail, especially for non-competition use. I personally do prefer the QuickTime, but I honestly can't give a good reason. Just my choice. If you were going to use the car in sanctioned events, it would be a different story. Because there one would be required. And it would need to be the SFI version, which as it turns out doesn't fit too easily. Even when using the QuickTime with a TKO, most of us end up still using the RM-6080 not SFI-approved version.

[Fabb]

My thoughts FWIW:

1. I have no experience with ordering the Coyote and related from Factory Five. That's something pretty recent. I did see someone post a picture of a Coyote that came from Factory Five. Had a pretty cool rolling cart and lift points on the engine. Won't get that from the Ford Performance wood and cardboard crate. But the bottom line IMO is these engines are basically a commodity. Just about everyone sells them, but they're usually being drop shipped from the Ford Performance distribution center in Michigan. Shipping is typically free. The warranty is provided by Ford no matter where you buy them. The technical support help desk from Ford is pretty good. Bottom line, I'm also a price shopper on this one and there's money to be saved if you shop around.

Yeah, I saw that too, over on sbhunter's thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26397-Sbhunter%92s-coyote-build&p=308745&viewfull=1#post308745). I can get a rotating mount anywhere for $50 and appears to still save a few bucks with Forte, so likely going there. Plus just talking to the guy he kinda earned my business with his clarity, honesty, and whole bunch of other positive feedback from others in the forums here. So I may have to see if FFR will sell/throw in those lift extensions. :)



2. Yes, that's correct. The IRS option and the IRS center section and spindles/knuckles. You don't list rear brakes but that has to be purchased no matter which rear suspension you choose. It's only a price decision? I guess so. Also makes a difference in how the car rides, which I can personally vouch for as I mentioned before. We like it a lot. Supposed to also be the best performance, but for your use doesn't sound like that's a big deal. How much is that worth? You have to decide. FWIW, it will also affect the resale value. An IRS car is simply worth more than a solid axle car. People usually say they don't care about resale because they're never going to sell the car. But it happens. I wouldn't make a decision because of that alone, but it's something to put on the list.

Sorry I wasn't more clear. I am convinced I want to get the IRS (based on your input and others), just confirming I am ordering the right parts (based on scott's input + a couple calls with FFR and Forte, I think I get it now), was just confirming if I should order from FFR or Forte or other. Long story short, I can save a few bucks with Forte here. Oh, and I have the rear brakes from Wilwood in my plan (12.88").



3. For you TKO, you do have the option of an aluminum bell or the QuickTime steel bell. Roughly a $200 price difference, the QuickTime bell obviously being more. Really a personal decision. Some want the added security of the steel bell because that spinning flywheel and clutch are inches away from you and your passenger. Others properly cite those rarely if ever fail, especially for non-competition use. I personally do prefer the QuickTime, but I honestly can't give a good reason. Just my choice. If you were going to use the car in sanctioned events, it would be a different story. Because there one would be required. And it would need to be the SFI version, which as it turns out doesn't fit too easily. Even when using the QuickTime with a TKO, most of us end up still using the RM-6080 not SFI-approved version.
You are right, I am going to skip the bellhousing change.

More details as we keep moving.

Thanks again everyone!
-B

[Fabb]

Ok, the order went in on Friday and I have a production date target of March 3! So excited!

So far I have just ordered the "core" parts of my kit:

1. Complete Kit #50013
2. Power-coated chassis #12189
3. Coyote Headers #16295
4. Coyote Mounts #15440
5. Driveshaft #60175
6. Body Cutouts #12070
7. Original Seats #16325

a. I plan to get Kirkey upgrades separately based on wareaglescott's input
8. Coyote Power Steer #16137
9. Front suspension #12066
10. Rear Suspension 2015 IRS #15942
11. GPS Gauges #16004
12. 17x9 and 17x10.5 Wheels #14865
13. Sway bars front & rear #16116 & 15998
14. Dual Chrome Roll Bars

a. Driver chrome #15101
b. Passenger chrome #15107
15. Coyote install kit parts #15432
16. Brakes: Wilwood upgrades #15370 front & #15988 IRS rear

My FFR order #2 I am thinking thru:

1. Dash with glovebox #16039
2. Wind wings #12049
3. Sun Visors #12042
4. Floormats #15154
5. Assembled side louvers #15659
6. Brake mesh #12469
7. Batt Cutoff #12453
8. Roll grommets #15158 x2
9. Dash support #15635
10. Seat track kit #12077

Getting my order ready for Forte for the full drive train of Coyote + TKO600 + Hyd Clutch + Rear end (center, etc). Also planning on the other orders from Breeze, Replicaparts, Gas-n, Kirkey, etc...

Open questions if you don't mind. I read a few build threads and would love feedback
1. Driveshaft - in wareaglescott's build thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21312-Wareaglescott-s-Coyote-build-thread-INDEX-ADDED-TO-POST-1&p=249107&viewfull=1#post249107), it was the wrong part. What's the right part #? I have #60175 so far from FFR.
2. In my FFR order #2, no idea what the assembled side louvers (http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15659-assembled-side-louver-set/) are compared to what comes in the kit, so more just curious what that is. It says more authentic, and I am ok with saving the dough here.
3. Floormats - good to get from FFR or another place?
4. Seat track kit - I highly suspect my wife (5'8") will want to drive, and with me 6'4" I doubt this will work out well. Curious if anyone else did this.

Thanks again, reading all I can while passing the time.
-B

[edwardb]

Responses to your latest questions:

1. Can't say why Scott received the wrong driveshaft. I would go with what FF recommends for your engine/trans/rear suspension combination. If for some reason it's not right, they'll work with you when the time comes if it was their error.

2. The standard louvers are a piece of flat stock aluminum with the louver sections laser cut into it. You bend the sections open and mount it. Some make it look good. Some don't. The assembled louvers are made from multiple inidividual pieces, e.g. the louvers, border piece, all assembled together. Stick with. It's a nice upgrade.

3. The floormats from FF are very nice. As good as anything you can buy IMO and fit perfectly. Another good choice. Just plan on attaching them to the floor somehow as like any floor mat they can scoot around and create a safety hazard.

4. Can't help with seat tracks. Haven't done them.

[Straversi]

The assembled louvers look much better IMO.

You 6’ 4” will want the Kitkeys mounted flat to the floor. Seat tracks will sit you up too high. I have not done it yet but when I mount my seats I’m planning to drill another set of holes further fwd. If my wife wants to drive it will take some wrenching. I don’t think it will happen very often. When I’m driving, the extra holes will be floor drains I guess.

-Steve

[Fabb]

Responses to your latest questions:

1. Can't say why Scott received the wrong driveshaft. I would go with what FF recommends for your engine/trans/rear suspension combination. If for some reason it's not right, they'll work with you when the time comes if it was their error.

Will confirm with Dan tomorrow.



2. The standard louvers are a piece of flat stock aluminum with the louver sections laser cut into it. You bend the sections open and mount it. Some make it look good. Some don't. The assembled louvers are made from multiple inidividual pieces, e.g. the louvers, border piece, all assembled together. Stick with. It's a nice upgrade.

Both you and Straversi seem aligned, I guess I will keep on the wish list.



3. The floormats from FF are very nice. As good as anything you can buy IMO and fit perfectly. Another good choice. Just plan on attaching them to the floor somehow as like any floor mat they can scoot around and create a safety hazard.

Cool.


The assembled louvers look much better IMO.

You 6’ 4” will want the Kitkeys mounted flat to the floor. Seat tracks will sit you up too high. I have not done it yet but when I mount my seats I’m planning to drill another set of holes further fwd. If my wife wants to drive it will take some wrenching. I don’t think it will happen very often. When I’m driving, the extra holes will be floor drains I guess.

-Steve
Interesting idea...

Thanks again
-B

[Bayfunktionkev]

congrats on the build! my kit is similar and I'm waiting for it to be delivered. I myself ordered the efi fuel setup because ffr said I will need it for my setup "coyote" but then again I started my build as a base kit so we'll see when I have the parts in hand.

[Bayfunktionkev]

A few notes to add.
The "Additional options to decide on soon" - you can make changes to your order up until it ships out. While these items won't be needed right away, you will save on shipping if you order them with your main order.
I've seen very few people using the full front bumper, I chose full rear bumper and front and rear overriders - its all just a preference in looks.
I am not using a Heater/defroster. I have heard that unless you plan on a roof at some point, its not terribly effective. I did heated seats instead and happy with that decision.
I got the SS FFR pipes as part of a sale they were running at the time. I've only driven the car a 150 miles so far, but I found the volume to be quieter than expected. However, it is my understanding that the FFR pipes will get louder over time/miles and then is when people start to have issues. EdwardB's suggestion is probably a good one.
I also got the Coyote Power Steering kit (delivered about 1 year ago) and also had an issue where the first rack had kinked lines. FFR sent a replacement and that one was fine. Again, I dont have many miles on it, but I've had no other issues.
EFI Fuel System - you wont need this with the Coyote



I ordered my kit with the efi fuel system as FFr on the phone sold it to me. Can you possibly explain why its not needed as I'm also doing a coyote setup. hopefully if i don't need it they will let me return or exchange it for option parts.

[Jdav]

I ordered my kit with the efi fuel system as FFr on the phone sold it to me. Can you possibly explain why its not needed as I'm also doing a coyote setup. hopefully if i don't need it they will let me return or exchange it for option parts.

I honestly don't know what is included in that option, but it wasn't on my order sheet. It's possible that they changed the coyote fitment kit and this is now needed? The only thing I can think of that it might be that you would need is an electronic fuel pump (I got mine from forte with the engine).. All of the actual fuel injection components are built within the coyote. Connecting the fuel system is as easy as connecting the line from the pump to the regulator/filter (also from forte) and then regulator to the fuel rails.

[Fabb]

I honestly don't know what is included in that option, but it wasn't on my order sheet. It's possible that they changed the coyote fitment kit and this is now needed? The only thing I can think of that it might be that you would need is an electronic fuel pump (I got mine from forte with the engine).. All of the actual fuel injection components are built within the coyote. Connecting the fuel system is as easy as connecting the line from the pump to the regulator/filter (also from forte) and then regulator to the fuel rails.

My Forte order includes two options:
1. Fuel Reg & Line kit - described as 3/8" line instead of the smaller line from FFR. I checked the FFR complete kit and it includes 3/8 line but doesn't call out the regulator. I think 3/8" line is expected by the Coyote so I am going with this.
2. In tank 190 pump & hangar. I read multiple threads about going with the smaller one (not enough) and the 255 (likely too much without other parts adjusted as well).

I am going to re-read EdwardB's thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=228787&viewfull=1#post228787) on this topic to see if i can clarify the plan here. I think i also want the SS rigid fuel lines he mentioned but need to read again and compare to today and what i can order from whom and price.

Hopefully others with more experience can clarify too.

[Fabb]

There was also additional advice about the return line and making a smart choice on fuel system design here saves a pain on long lines for the return... Need to find that advice too...

[Jdav]

My Forte order includes two options:
1. Fuel Reg & Line kit - described as 3/8" line instead of the smaller line from FFR. I checked the FFR complete kit and it includes 3/8 line but doesn't call out the regulator. I think 3/8" line is expected by the Coyote so I am going with this.
2. In tank 190 pump & hangar. I read multiple threads about going with the smaller one (not enough) and the 255 (likely too much without other parts adjusted as well).

I am going to re-read EdwardB's thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=228787&viewfull=1#post228787) on this topic to see if i can clarify the plan here. I think i also want the SS rigid fuel lines he mentioned but need to read again and compare to today and what i can order from whom and price.

Hopefully others with more experience can clarify too.

Yep, I did the same, but I did use the forte supplied nylon fuel lines. The Regulator/Filter is a unit that looks like a canister and is mounted close to the tank. It had me confused for a while because it didnt look anything like the Aeromotive units that EdwardB and Scott used. The one Forte supplies is already set to the proper pressure (EdwardBs is an adjustable unit). You run a short line from the pump to the unit for input, a long line from the unit to the fuel rail and then a short line from the unit back to the tank for return. Its a pretty simple set up.

[sbhunter]

Here’s my two cents for what it’s worth. Factory Five is obviously a great company. That’s why we are all here. There are many shops selling parts to complete their kits that depend on us for their livelihood. I had planned on ordering my coyote/tko from Forte. I visited Factory Five to place my order and fell for their coyote setup because it was staring at me. As I have started assembly, I have had a few questions about things on the motor or trans. It is a very complete combo but as with other things from them the instructions are somewhere between lacking and nonexistent. I finally broke down and called Mike Forte with some questions and to order a couple things. He was rightly upset that I had bought the motor kit from FFR but was very helpful still. If I had a do over, I would go with Forte. The combo that FFR is selling comes with an aluminum TREMEC bell housing for what it’s worth.

[edwardb]

My Forte order includes two options:
1. Fuel Reg & Line kit - described as 3/8" line instead of the smaller line from FFR. I checked the FFR complete kit and it includes 3/8 line but doesn't call out the regulator. I think 3/8" line is expected by the Coyote so I am going with this.
2. In tank 190 pump & hangar. I read multiple threads about going with the smaller one (not enough) and the 255 (likely too much without other parts adjusted as well).

I am going to re-read EdwardB's thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=228787&viewfull=1#post228787) on this topic to see if i can clarify the plan here. I think i also want the SS rigid fuel lines he mentioned but need to read again and compare to today and what i can order from whom and price.

Couple of comments. There was a previous question about the 33862 - EFI Fuel System option at $549.00. I don't know what that is. I've ordered and received two complete kits (Roadster and Gen 3 Coupe) configured for a Coyote build and didn't order this option. Nor was it suggested. Something in my memory says it might be a regulator and related, but I don't know for sure. (Plus I don't trust my memory that much. :rolleyes:). Best is to call Factory Five and find out what it is. Depending on what you do with other packages (e.g. the Coyote package from Forte) you may/may not need it. Note that I did order the 15432 Coyote Installation Kit with my Coupe. Wasn't available when I ordered the Roadster in 2015. I highly recommend that option. Includes such things as motor mount spacers, PCM and PDB mounts, clutch switch mounts, and a whole box of hardware and plumbing bits. None of that stuff would be typically available anywhere else.

For the fuel line sizes, this is a whole other discussion. The standard kit fuel lines supplied by Factory Five are 5/16-inch supply and 1/4-inch return. No 3/8-inch material in sight. That for the Gen 3 Coupe I just received, and it's the same box provided with my Roadster a couple years ago. Lots of builds have been successfully completed with these materials, but I was just more comfortable having that extra margin of safety with 3/8-inch. At the time I did the Roadster, there was a lot of forum traffic about the right size return line, plus several instances of people burning up fuel pumps. Some repeatedly. Based on that, plus the recommendation in my Aeromotive regulator that specifically said use 3/8-inch supply and return lines to reduce stress on the fuel pump, that's what I did on the Roadster build and will again on the Coupe build. There's a whole other discussion about the right electric fuel pump size. The Factory Five instructions say one size. The Ford Racing (Performance) instructions say another. Almost for sure the smaller (190 LPH) is more than adequate. But I went with the 255 LPH and figured with 3/8 supply and return it would be OK. Nearly 2,000 trouble free miles during it's first season. So I'm thinking it's OK. Not saying it wouldn't have been OK with a different combination. But that's my experience FWIW.

Regarding the regulator, I am aware that Mike provides a fixed regulator / fuel filter combination (it's actually a GM / Corvette part if that matters...) that can be put near the tank and reduce plumbing. I've heard from a number of builders that use it. I did choose to go the Aeromotive adjustable route in the engine compartment though. Another one of many choices for these builds.

[Duke]

4. Seat track kit - I highly suspect my wife (5'8") will want to drive, and with me 6'4" I doubt this will work out well. Curious if anyone else did this.



See my build thread. I'm same height and went through the trouble of building brackets and sliders for the Kirkley's. Worked out great, but in the end I ditched them and bolted the seats to the floor. With the sliders I sat too high and my eyes were at the top of the windshield. Once I dropped the seat to the floor I felt much more comfortable driving.

[lewma]

Brian, did you ever decide on where you were purchasing your Coyote and TKO600 from ? Forte or FFR ? Also, did you finalize the list of parts you were going to order for this ? I'm deciding that very same thing right now for my build. Just wondered if you had anything firmed up yet.

mark

[Fabb]

Brian, did you ever decide on where you were purchasing your Coyote and TKO600 from ? Forte or FFR ? Also, did you finalize the list of parts you were going to order for this ? I'm deciding that very same thing right now for my build. Just wondered if you had anything firmed up yet.

mark

Hey Mark - I am going to get it from Forte. The price difference isn't enough and Mike's customer service won me over easy. I actually just received my kit today and am going to post an update with my purchase details updated as well.

-Brian

[Fabb]

Look at what I found wandering my neighborhood:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83304&d=1522476678

Actually, I went and met Jim (delivery dude, great guy!) a couple blocks away and we drove in my truck to survey the best approach. He did a great job of getting within 300 ft of my driveway. I actually took my truck + my small trailer and fully loaded both with the boxes, and then we were able to unload the frame+body onto my frame dolly (thanks Jazzman for the model).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83305&d=1522476684

And then we had to get out my tractor to tow it the 300 ft + the length of my driveway. Then Jim and I carefully guided it down some plywood over my gravel while my daughter controlled the tractor. You can see the tow wire, but not the tractor. What an event!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83303&d=1522475554

My wife took a video I may wind up sharing...

Very excited to finally be an owner! Even updated my signature. :)
-B

[Fabb]

Any my final order from FFR was:
FFR Order 1/22 order date
1. Complete Kit #50013
2. Power-coated chassis #12189
3. Coyote Headers #16295
4. Coyote Mounts #15440
5. Driveshaft #60175
6. Body Cutouts #12070
7. Original Seats #16325
a. I plan to get Kirkey upgrades separately
8. Coyote Power Steer #16473
9. Front suspension #12066
10. Rear Suspension 2015 IRS #15942
11. GPS Gauges #16004
12. 17x9 and 17x10.5 Wheels #14865
13. Sway bars front & rear #16116 & 15998
14. Chrome Roll Bars #15101 & #15107
15. Coyote install kit parts #15432
16. Brakes: Wilwood upgrades #15370 front & #15988 rear

Then I updated my order during the winter sale:
a. Stainless Side pipes #14932
b. Dash with glovebox #16039
c. Wind Wings #12049
d. Sun Visors #12042
e. Floor mats #15154
f. Assembled Side Louvers #15659
g. Brake duct wire mesh #12469
h. Battery cutoff #12453
i. Roll bar grommets #15158 x2 (for both sides)
j. Center dash support #15635
k. Overriders #12012

[Boydster]

WooHooo! Inventory time! Congrats....

[Fabb]

Ok, my 15yo daughter and 11yo son both joined in on the inventory so we got that done pretty well. Still took hours. I did my best to put the boxes out of the way in support of build order.

Missing stuff: just a few things, big items were on the Part Order List (POL) stuff that FFR has to send. I did compile a list of other missing stuff as well, so it was time well spent.

I then had my wife and father-in-law and his wife help me separate the body from the frame and get them on the body buck:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83375&d=1522598881


* Tip: Make sure to watch the FFR videos (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QokuC-jzLK8&list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB&index=2) to get their tips, like marking the jack bolts before removing. And the description/demo of removing the body.

? Question: I didn't find my certificate of origin so far, I am curious where I should have found this?

Thanks
-Brian

[JIMLAND]

Question: I didn't find my certificate of origin so far, I am curious where I should have found this?

Thanks
-Brian

Brian,

Congrat's on getting started, now the fun starts!

Got my certificate of origin in the mail several weeks after I took delivery.

Jim

[shark92651]

Congrats on getting your kit, hopefully mine will be here in the next couple weeks. Looks like there are quite a few of us that will be building Coyote powered MK4's at the same time.

[edwardb]

Question: I didn't find my certificate of origin so far, I am curious where I should have found this?

Thanks
-Brian

You'll get a package containing the certificate of origin and engraved nameplate with the completion of your POL. Often in the last shipment of backordered parts.

[Fabb]

Thanks again folks for quick answers.

Today I got the panels labeled (good use for a label maker) and then removed. Pretty bare frame:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83414&d=1522643558

* Tip: On the panels I found using the label maker to put labels on each piece and then placing the label so it overlaps either the frame or other parts, then cutting it in half gives me a "what goes on top" as well as alignment key. We'll see how well that plan holds up as I prep the panels. :)

Then I decided to get my Wilwood brake rotors + hats assembled. I also decided to add in the speed/safety wiring:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83413&d=1522643541

* Tip: For the safety wire (aka speed wire) work, it definitely helped to have small bent needle nose pliers like these (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-34233-7-Inch-90-Degree-Pliers/dp/B00YQ7RS1M/). It took a few failures to get the hang of it, but by the 4th set I felt pretty confident and reasonably quick.

? Question: How do you remove rivnuts?

So, to explain the question, gotta share a bit more... I am leveraging many of your build threads as inspiration, and found in EdwardB's 25th anniv thread he put nutserts/rivnuts on his F-Panels (I don't recall precisely why yet, but his advise seems wise). So its good advise and an excuse to get a new tool and try it. Well, 1st use, the mandrel broke in the rivnut in the panel. So I need to take out the broken mandrel, and maybe the rivnut.

It appears I also have to finalize my decision on the panel "paint" plan. I had considered going with Powder Coat, but I am leaning toward Jeff K's advice to go with brushed aluminum look (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25070-Question-for-those-that-went-the-bare-aluminum-panel-route&p=286254&viewfull=1#post286254).

? Question2: Do I really have to bake the clear coat in? I dont think my wife will let me use the oven for that... I wonder if I need to browse craigslist for a spare oven...

Another fun day...
-B

[edwardb]

...found in EdwardB's 25th anniv thread he put nutserts/rivnuts on his F-Panels (I don't recall precisely why yet...).

I put them along the edge of the F-panel where the front splash guards are attached. Can't put the splash guards in until the body is on, and you'll find you have them on and off several times during the build. Plus makes them easy to remove in the future should you need to for whatever reason including taking the body back off. Certainly rivets could be used and drilled out. No big deal, and that's what many do. I just prefer the nutserts. Do the same thing on the rear splash guards. Into the chassis side when fitting and mounting them. Plus whatever panels throughout the build you want to have removable. Like the access cover on the top of the driver's side footbox.

My Anniversary Roadster is a 20th version BTW. The 25th ones are still a couple years away. ;)

You're off and running. Enjoy.

[Boydster]

? Question: How do you remove rivnuts?

-B

Same as drilling out a rivet. Drill the top, or flange. You can use the same size bit that you used for the hole, but need to be lined up straight. I prefer to use a larger bit and go slow, so instead of drilling through the hole, now you're just drilling the flange off the top. Be careful so you dont pop into the aluminum panel.

[Fabb]

Sweet, thanks guys.

Another couple questions on today's build steps...

Question 1: I started on lower control arms, and the DS went in with 2 spacers on either side of the rear mount and 0 on the front mount (just like the instructions). The PS, however, fits well with just 1 washer on the rear, and looks like it wants 1 spacer in the front. Do I need these to be symmetrical and so I just need to force the issue with a bigger hammer? Or do I roll with where it naturally wants spacers?

DS: looks good
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83422&d=1522678822

PS Rear: only 1 washer
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83423&d=1522678835

PS Front: looks like it wants 1 washer
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83424&d=1522678841

Question 2: Ball joint in the UCA. The manual shows this image:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83425&d=1522679227

And yet, in my kit, the UCA ball joint receiver looks like it is upside down. The zerk fittings on the UCA are on the up side, but the angle of the receiver appears opposite of the pic. I also saw on another thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27136-Front-Koni-Shock-mounts-changed&p=310068&viewfull=1#post310068), the callout that these have to be disassembled and reassembled, is that correct?

Thanks
-B

[doddmoore]

Having read thru many great build threads and taking much inspiration from you all, I figured I should share my plans now that I am moving into the order phase, and then I will use this thread to share my build as it progresses.

I want to get my order placed this week and would appreciate feedback from you all to make sure I fix any mistakes here.

My goal is to have a fun car I can enjoy and use and not just a garage queen. I do want to go to car shows for fun but I figure this wont be my last car built, so I want to learn and enjoy and use the car I finish here. I have a 14yo daughter and 11yo son that I want to enjoy the build with me as well.

So, my order plan is:
FFR Complete Kit w/IRS
Coyote motor & TKO600

My selections from FFR in the complete kit order
[LIST=1]
Frame: Powder coating #12189, Body Cutouts #12070
Motor:
a. Stainless Coyote Headers #16295
b. Coyote Power Steer #16137
Suspension: 2015 IRS #15942
Brakes: Wilwood upgrades #15370 front & #15988 rear
Interior:
a. Competition Leather seats #13852
b. GPS Gauges #16004
-B

In looking at the seats I found a local guy who is an auto upholsterer whose work I really like. Have you looked into getting the vinyl seats and having them redone locally? The cost difference between those and the FF is significant if I provide my own leather. Anyone else done that as well?

[Boydster]

I let the control arm washers fall where they needed to be and was not concerned with being symmetrical.

You do need to disassemble and correct one control arm. Ball joints need to angle to the outside with the zerk fittings on top.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82925&d=1521673671

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82922&d=1521673622

[Fabb]

I let the control arm washers fall where they needed to be and was not concerned with being symmetrical.

You do need to disassemble and correct one control arm. Ball joints need to angle to the outside with the zerk fittings on top.


Cool, thanks Boyd. I will use your photos as the guide for my work today.
-B

[Fabb]

I looked at my UCAs and they both appear inverted, so it looks like I need to flip both. My target outcome is to have both UCAs have the zerks up and the ball receivers angled out. I guess I got lucky with 2 inverted instead of just one.

Let me know if I should post a pic to confirm I am doing this right.
-B

[JoeAIII]

Sounds like you've got it. I had to flip both.

[Fixit]

I'm with you on the "powder coat" thing for the bolt-on parts... for me, it's just not in the budget for benefit received.
On the frame, a resounding YES - the impact resistance and coverage of hidden areas is worth it. For hinges, brackets/tabs/doodads nah...

Good prep work, and $10 of "rattle can" or POR-15 will yield the same result and durability (considering the actual use these cars/parts will get).
I cleaned/prepped/rattle-can'd all of the suspension parts on my '65 Camino, and after 15K+/10 years miles of "collector car" use - 100's in conditions where a roadster would be parked - the paint is as nice as the day I sprayed it.

Rattle-can paint doesn't need to be baked for adhesion.
Frankly, my best results have been with the cheapest "house-brand" stuff out there! The $3.99 a can "house-brand" stuff seems to still have all the nasty chemicals in it! (acetone, tolune, banned in CA, etc.) and it flashes off and STICKS. Just be sure to use it with the proper PPE, ventilation, etc.
My .02

[Fabb]

Pretty cool to get the first parts going on the car. I haven't torqued everything down yet but making sure I get this right.

DS: Things went together well I think, the lower castle nut advice from WarEagleScott (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?21312-Wareaglescott-s-Coyote-build-thread-INDEX-ADDED-TO-POST-1&p=243765&viewfull=1#post243765) was helpful (thanks). The upper castle nut seems to be able to tighten up well past the cotter pin point, so wonder if a spacer is needed there? I am using the standard Mevotech ball joint.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83475&d=1522736040

PS: I have a curious gap on the front side, I haven't really wrenched hard on it, but curious if I should expect to close this gap with torque or spacer and if I need to worry angles of the arms?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83476&d=1522736047

For the IRS prep... So the manual says to sawzall a big chunk off my rear spindles. Really?

And then the manual says to hammer out the wheel studs, but I haven't found the replacement wheel studs, did I miss them in my inventory?

Thanks all
-B

[Fabb]

I found the replacement wheel studs, so I guess that part of the plan is going to happen. :)

-B

[Fixit]

Is that gap on the fore or aft arm?

[Fabb]

Is that gap on the fore or aft arm?

Fore arm. The temptation is to torque it up...

[Fixit]

It shouldn't be a problem... I've got (basically) the same upper A-arms on my Camino.
As long as the cross-shaft doesn't run out of thread before the nut is tight you'll be OK... the pivot joints on the aft arm will compensate.
(Just remember that the cross-shaft nuts don't get final torqued until the suspension is under load - full weight of the car after bouncing it a few times)

[edwardb]

Yes, the metric wheel studs for the 2015+ IRS hubs are removed and replaced with 1/2-20 SAE studs provided in the kit. Then they match the front hubs and also the kit provided lug nuts. And yes the IRS knuckles get a section removed. The IRS instructions are quite thorough and both of these subjects are covered in detail. I cut them using my bandsaw vs. a Sawzall. Where to cut is shown in the instructions, and isn't super critical.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/th_IMG_3312_zpsduagjtnq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3312_zpsduagjtnq.jpg.html)

For the front suspension, not unusual for the lower tabs to have moved around some when welded. They bend pretty easily with a large combination wrench. Or they can be spread with a piece of threaded rod and nuts and washers. I've never had to use spacers in the fronts. For the rears, totally normal to use the provided washers on one side when using the FFR LCA's (versus Mustang donor LCA's). Described in the instructions. I've personally not had to use a washer on each side. But wouldn't hurt if you did. You'll need to use some judgement whether a washer is best, of whether the tab just needs to be moved/straightened. The instructions give the torque setting to be applied with the LCA in a horizontal position. The tabs and or washers will tighten against the inner steel bushings. I normally fill the joints with grease before assembly. Makes them a bit easier to assemble plus makes absolutely positive they're adequately lubed.

For the upper cross arm, that gap has to be closed. The bushing should be fully captured on both sides. The instructions are pretty specific about how this gets installed. No torque specs are given. It says to tighten them enough to where they move relatively easily, but not so tight to where grease pumped in through the zerk is unable to squeeze through the small grooves in the bushings.

One other hint. For the picture of your UCA in post #41, generally it's good practice to have bolts go in from the top and the nut on the bottom. The bolt on your UCA next to the upper ball joint has the nut on the top. Suggest you flip it over. In the unlikely event the nut were to fall off, the bolt may still stay in place to prevent a catastrophic failure.

[Mark Eaton]

x2 what Edwardb said about the UCA. If you want to see how not to do it look at my build thread. I tightened them too much and ruptured the bushings on both sides. Had to replace them. Also, I found removing the section from the IRS knuckles difficult with my Sawzal but my angle grinder cut through it like butter!

[Fabb]

Didn't get as much done today as I had hoped, but made some progress.

Knuckles and Hub Studs:

Yes, the metric wheel studs for the 2015+ IRS hubs are removed and replaced with 1/2-20 SAE studs provided in the kit. Then they match the front hubs and also the kit provided lug nuts. And yes the IRS knuckles get a section removed. The IRS instructions are quite thorough and both of these subjects are covered in detail. I cut them using my bandsaw vs. a Sawzall. Where to cut is shown in the instructions, and isn't super critical.


Yep, I reviewed your build thread and followed your pattern and used the bandsaw on my knuckles and then polished them up a bit:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83565&d=1522813883

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83566&d=1522813889

I also got the wheel studs out using my hydraulic press (I actually have one for cider making). That worked well, although putting the new ones in with the press seemed a bit awkward (the stud liked to go at an angle with the press), so I am likely going to try impact drill method tomorrow.


For the front suspension, not unusual for the lower tabs to have moved around some when welded. They bend pretty easily with a large combination wrench. Or they can be spread with a piece of threaded rod and nuts and washers. I've never had to use spacers in the fronts. For the rears, totally normal to use the provided washers on one side when using the FFR LCA's (versus Mustang donor LCA's). Described in the instructions. I've personally not had to use a washer on each side. But wouldn't hurt if you did. You'll need to use some judgement whether a washer is best, of whether the tab just needs to be moved/straightened. The instructions give the torque setting to be applied with the LCA in a horizontal position. The tabs and or washers will tighten against the inner steel bushings. I normally fill the joints with grease before assembly. Makes them a bit easier to assemble plus makes absolutely positive they're adequately lubed.


Cool, I went with the spacing and a single washer worked just fine on that side. As for the grease, something like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0)?


For the upper cross arm, that gap has to be closed. The bushing should be fully captured on both sides. The instructions are pretty specific about how this gets installed. No torque specs are given. It says to tighten them enough to where they move relatively easily, but not so tight to where grease pumped in through the zerk is unable to squeeze through the small grooves in the bushings.


Makes sense, I have been test fitting stuff until I am very confident its good, so I will get this one cinched up as well.


One other hint. For the picture of your UCA in post #41, generally it's good practice to have bolts go in from the top and the nut on the bottom. The bolt on your UCA next to the upper ball joint has the nut on the top. Suggest you flip it over. In the unlikely event the nut were to fall off, the bolt may still stay in place to prevent a catastrophic failure.

Thanks for catching that. It's funny, because I am sure you or someone else have made that point before because I remember it being a great tip. I haven't tightened up those yet, so, looks like tomorrow's theme is getting my torque setup correct.

I also learned the local powder coating here (Seattle area) is 2-2.5 weeks backed up... Did some test options on a spare piece of aluminum with the etch + clear-coat and 2 other color options. We'll see what looks good tomorrow.

* Tip: make sure bolts are on top and nuts on bottom in case they get loose and fall out (see above).

? Question: For the panels. I assume the best practice is get all the parts positioned on the body and drilled/cleco'd in. Then send them to powder coat, then install later. I figure positioning/drilling/cleco with the nicely PC'd stuff would not be as fun.

Thanks!
-B

[edwardb]

Yes, fit and drill the panels before powder coating. That's my process and I think the most common. You should find they all fit really well and won't require much tweaking. But occasionally a bend needs to be adjusted a little, trim made to clear a weld, whatever. When back from PC, you may find you need to run the #30 drill bit through the holes, depending on thick the powder was applied. But it only takes a minute or two per panel. No big deal.

For the chassis grease, I've never gotten too fancy with that. Whatever name brand the local parts store had on the shelf. I do typically pick the synthetic.

[Fabb]

As I read thru all the build threads, I compiled my list of goodies I wanted to get as well:
1. Breeze: Battery Front & Lower radiator support kit & Fan Shroud
2. Replica parts: Radiator Panel, trunk support
3. Russ T: Trunk Kit (is the hoop conversion kit listed the right one to order, I have this pic and think it is called the drop box but cant find on his website)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83568&d=1522818339
4. FFMetal: Thicker firewall

Then the choice between a couple brands:
1. Koolmat from Breeze (pre-cut but pricey) vs Thermo-Tec and Jazzman's cardboard template method
2. Radiator pipes for Coyote from Boig or Breeze

I also have some pics for stuff I dont know if folks love/hate like Wheel well liners (Alex Custom Roadster Interiors).

Always interested in your feedback on the stuff you have really loved adding to your car. Let me know.

-Brian

[Fabb]

Actually, just saw this thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27932-Must-Have-Kit-Mods) with lots of comments on mods and feedback. I will add my 2 cents over there.

-B

[Fabb]

I didn't realize how long the engagement with local powder coating places was going to take... After a couple weeks of back and forth, I think I have found the right crew and reasonable price. 20+ years experience, probably take them a week, and between $800-1000 depending on the details of final parts list and such. They also are happy to do my calipers in my accent color for another $200 or so. Seems reasonable.

As I have been going thru this, I have read many other build threads that say "I should have included that on my PC list", so I have tried to do my best to be 1 trip and done, we'll see. Here's the list I compiled of stuff going to the powder coater.

53 panels to Powder Coat:


Part #Description



10551Footbox Outside Vertical Wall, PS


10554Footbox Outside Vertical Wall, DS


10853Footbox Top, PS


10858Footbox Top Outside Section, DS


10905Footbox Tunnel Side Vertical Wall, DS


12273Engine Harness Block Off Plate


12407Dash Harness Block Off Plate


12806Transmission Tunnel Front Vertical Wall


13138Footbox Front Vertical Wall, PS


13139Footbox Tunnel Side Vertical Wall, PS


14733Footbox Front Wall Patch Cover, DS


15015Footbox Top Outside, PS


15523Footbox Top Inside Section, DS


15802Wilwood Clutch Blockoff


16061Footbox Top Inside Cover, DS


16277Footbox Front Wall Panel, DS


10559Firewall


10863F Panel, PS


10864F Panel, DS


10963Firewall Extension, PS


13647Fuse Panel Mount


16274Coyote 2015 Computer Mount


16484Coyote 2015 Fuse Panel Mount


B70561Front Battery Box (Breeze)


B32204Fan Shroud (Breeze)


RP101Main Intake Cowl - Nose Opening (Replica Parts)


10560Trunk Floor, Upper (Front)


12959Trunk Floor Block Off Plates (x2)


15011Trunk Outside Wall, DS


15012Trunk Outside Wall, PS


15222Trunk Floor, Lower (Rear)


15223Trunk Side Cover (x2)


RT101Trunk Drop Box (Russ Thompson)


10557Cockpit Floor w/Tunnel Wall, DS


10558Cockpit Floor w/Tunnel Wall, PS


10563Transmission Tunnel Top


10823Rear Cockpit Vertical Wall


10906Transmission Tunnel Rear (U-Joint Access Panel)


12274Transmission Harness Block Off Plate


12985Footbox Dropped Floor, DS


13247Transmission Tunnel Rear Corner, PS


13634Footbox Dropped Floor, PS


13642Under Door Lower, PS


13803Under Door Top, DS


14057Transmission Tunnel Cover Block Off Plate w/Hole


14582Under Door Lower, DS


14583Transmission Tunnel Rear Corner, DS


14584Under Door Top, PS


15020Rear Cockpit Corner, DS


15021Rear Cockpit Corner, PS


RP102Underdash Filler Panel (Replica Parts)



Notice I am not using certain parts because I am replacing with parts from ReplicaParts, etc. This is mainly just the Nose panels and a couple dash switch mounts.

31 Additional Parts for Powder Coating:


Part #Description


33113Bracket: Trunk Hinge Mount


15639Trunk Hinge Arm


14788Wilwood Brake Light Switch Mount, Steel


16209Wilwood Pedalbox Mount


16210Wilwood Pedalbox Rear Mount


13972Bracket: Gas Strut, 90 deg bent, Short


13451Frame Adjustment Plate, DS


13452Arm Support Plate, DS


13520Arm Support Plate, PS


13946Hood Mount Plate


14006Frame Adjustment Plate, PS


15143Long Arm, DS


15144Long Arm, PS


25410Arm: Short


13531Spacer: 3/16, Steel (Door Latch)


15176Lower Handle Assembly


15661Front Body Mount, DS


15662Front Body Mount, PS


12470QJ Bent Hook, DS


12471QJ Bent Hook, PS


16000IRS Swaybar Mount, DS


16001IRS Swaybar Mount, PS



23 parts I am planning to simply paint with POR.


Part #Description


13653Bracket: Brake Line Mount


14495Fuel Filter Bracket


14689Braided Brake Line Mount


15170Bracket: E-Brake Mounting


15431Accelerator Mount Bracket


60175Drive Shaft, 31 Spline x10.50


15167Fixed Gear


15168Handle to Ratchet Mount


15169Ratchet Tooth


14689Braided Brake Line Mount


15016Fuel Strap Block Off Plate


16258Clutch Top Travel Switch Mount


16259Clutch Bottom Travel Switch Mount


16260Clutch Pedal Switch Mount


16262Bottom Switch Clutch Quadrant Plate


16122IRS Center Section



And lastly the 4 splash panels in Dupli-Color Bed Armor.

So my questions:
1. Am I forgetting anything? Or am I including stuff I won't actually use (I have the Coyote Fitment Kit + IRS).
2. With the calipers, I was thinking of ordering decals to put Wilwood back on after. Does Wilwood sell them, or just buy aftermarket like these on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/WILWOOD-Caliper-Sticker-Metallic-Silver/dp/B017383PXU)?
3. Pedal boxes, for things like the clutch quadrant assembly, should that be painted? POR or PC?
4. What about the Door Latch spacers? I think EdwardB simply attached them before body painting and they got painted.
5. The manual suggests PC for certain parts, yet some seem silly to PC, and are on my POR list, any concern? Like the quadrant stop and switch mount.

Thanks again
-Brian

[RR20AC]

How about the radiator cowl cover, brake duct grills from breeze and the side louvers

[Fabb]

How about the radiator cowl cover, brake duct grills from breeze and the side louvers

Yep, I have the cowl cover going to the PC, while the brake duct grills will be body color (spray paint), and the side louvers are still coming from FFR in their upgrade version (no PC needed).

Looking forward to more input.

Thanks
-B

[Fabb]

Ok, been a while since I updated my build thread, so time to catch up.

First, my son and I flew down for the HBCI, that was awesome! So many fantastic people and stories and learned a ton. Special thanks to Jazzman, Straversi, RR20AC, David H and his family, both Jeff's (Miller and Kleiner) and many others for being so generous with their time and expertise! Also, thanks to Dave Smith for his part, my son got to meet him at the end and was pretty excited to meet the guy who started our car-building adventure.

Here's a few of the best pics from the event. First, Jazzman's award winner (and my son's two thumbs up!):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85786&d=1526400312

Next, my son's personal favorite (he loved the visible fans and the color):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85787&d=1526400322

Very cool Matte Grey with offset stripe:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85788&d=1526400333

Amazing metallic paint and interior detail. This one looked like a luxury car:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85789&d=1526400343

I will post some more on the actual build progress soon.
-B

[Fabb]

Now that I have a few minutes to catch up here, time to show some actual car build updates.

1st, I got the IRS components prepped, including the pre-grease before attaching to the car:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85797&d=1526419625

Then a whole bunch of drilling and cleco-ing to get all the panels aligned and set.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85798&d=1526419673

Couple of things I learned:

Use good drill bits.
Double-check all alignments
With rivnuts, make sure you drill a nut hole and a screw hole


On the rivnuts, I only used in a few locations, but when I drilled it in the top of the engine panel on the driver side, I used the same size bit to drill thru both panels. Oops, this means I need to use a larger screwhead or a washer. Not a huge deal, but something to learn from.

Then onto POR painting, mostly the center section in the IRS. I decided to do mostly POR and a then clear-coat (Dupli-color clear ceramic (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXW0/)) on the aluminum cover. I can't find a pic of the finished paint, but here's the before pic:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85837&d=1526481814

I am pretty happy with how it came out with a good look and solid protection factor.

More updates shortly...
-B

[Fabb]

Ok, so last couple of things my kids and I did before the trip to HBCI was getting the last of the Powder Coating stuff prepped to deliver to the shop. That includes getting the Breeze Battery Box in:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85844&d=1526483525

I wound up making a few shims out of wood run thru my planer to get the gaps precise per Mark's spec. Maybe a little OCD on my part, but it worked well for me.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85843&d=1526483520

Then it was on to getting Russ Thompson's trunk drop box in place (call/email him, its not listed on his site but he still sells it). I positioned the box walls:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85845&d=1526483729

Key learning for me on this part, I tried to get too close on the 1st labeled corner (DS front). Russ labels this one as the cut to get right and the others are approx. I tried to get a bit closer to the corner and forgot this will make it a bit tougher to rivet. No biggie, but my advice would be, get that 1 cut exactly how Russ lays out, then progress slowly around the rest of the cuts 1 at a time. It worked very well to just get 1 part cut aligned at a time to then make sure it all worked. Also, I got a bit over-invested in my drilling and wound up drilling 2 holes in the cross beam here I wish I hadn't. Oh well, I will find a way to make that a planned thing.

Then traced the cutout on my trunk floor and cut:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85846&d=1526483737

Then started the cleco assembly:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85847&d=1526483743

Final cleco view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=85848&d=1526483892

After this prep and a few more parts arriving from Replica Parts and Breeze I was able to take all my stuff to the PC and hop on the plane to HBCI.

More later.

-B

[initiator]

I like putting Clecos in every hole, too, but you don't have to. I try to space them out about every 10-12 inches, but I always fill the hole nearest the next hole I'm about to drill. Looks cooler when all the holes are filled, but takes longer.

Looking good!

[TLF]

This build thread needs updates, B.

;-)

-TLF

[initiator]

I agree, Brian - you still active on the project? Last post I see from you is last August. I still have your weathertight tool. It works great, although I haven't finished making up all the connectors yet.

[jiriza84641]

The build is looking great, I am just a bit ahead of you!

[Fabb]

Coming back online... Wow, never thought I would let my build project go so long without progress. Sometimes life happens... I changed jobs and wound up having no time for this project, then changed jobs again, and no time again... I am finally back to a more stable job and can get back to work here.

I haven't made any progress, so will be mostly catching back up to where I left off and I am going to have to order the motor now. My plan has always been Coyote, and looks like the Gen2 is no longer available, so have to figure out how to get back on track with the Gen3.

Any advice/quick tips on the proper Gen3 install and parts to order? I figure on going with Forte and would love to confirm the order and parts in the next week or so.

Thanks again all, hope to get back into building shortly.
-B

[460.465USMC]

Hello Fabb. I ordered Gen 3 Coyote w/TKO600 from Forte. He walked me through what I needed. I'm also going with the hydraulic clutch, which I ordered from him as well.