Joseph's MKIV - Yet another Coyote build

[JoeAIII]

Today my front suspension parts arrived, so my build is finally beginning. I guess that means it is time to start a build thread.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B2JNeWaSdO_YLDCMVJWyAjzasKQB_aBqpn8xKmLlawlcBWbkGc 9SL71RlY67X49RhI4R99uGopjlgZgekH-r6cyi00LE26OYm1in_RHekEEZYf32-UYMQgAeeFdX8sgtOCk3HMmNIO1nXtD5N7vmuHjnTMwueby7rmc ydjTeLUsxrasigunyvj4GbhhD3avEeylmej8mqZCsNOH2SctvQ R0o7uVOBGeaqIVugsfOysE2rOdIMu6px9hz6Cy6lKiNVFuZhYb OttYtXEbuNWqgp79XSeirRpLMzd_8pdHNGrWewmNj6wm5OQeoE PGJvxoyVXtBQcS8sN_L3f-jafTnLj0y0OW2TRNAo1mCFOkjnXpYgfkvWi0WI_2gdwr3o16Qv dVdC9DO9YjEFQv8spMWE_TAe6BhxXLDnNhr9Ga0fdSHheIjH0F z21bNDIlNekgYQ8gdyFu3jxwNTGkQ4TcdDWSF-UW9v2Eb7gSTOm7O-BrZiugrgsy8balSwWOcxcP0g0ybzWPIB8cbEMb9I9Wvo5QFI9A jv3WOEpxW-g3zIyFs0ZCv7mZR5qHOWTovW_jqqKUstM6Ed7yuNa2y4vO3Qya WwWXkOAKRNm-a-SDAKjjIpAA4yiOGVYQBxBRlJgF1LeuIBQzzRMMrMvmff1Ic5kE M0w24BM7YXQ=w400-no
My Factory 5 story starts like so many others here. Growing up outside Detroit, the automotive industry was everywhere. My grandfathers worked for Ford and Michelin, my father GM. Our family was involved in CCM (Corvette Club of Michigan), Detroit Region SCCA, and MSCC (Michigan Sports Car Club.) Every year we took part in various events from each club, and larger events - Road rally, Autocross, everything. My father ran in the One Lap of Michigan, then the family ran course closing for the event after it became the MACA Grand Tour for Children. My father was also very active in SCCA Pro Rally, eventually becoming an event organizer for Sno*Drift and one year being called on to help with the X-Games rally. I have fond memories of family trips with the rally team to the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb, among other "smaller" events.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IKru2cnQpvTwFcFRkKfQ_J9lxbpvtDR_xP4xC5Q4IzFDZuj6eB 9piIIoJASzSisqRmYPmEm_7j1gfkPPS75qu853dEIyI6A3uV_B S-w6e5fRPmNSj6-dsZ2UPRVndibYt2wgNqMVC1rsp7UVq6a0SIyd0hoqMZrccRPON qPiCIIAasqX1rd_wtVu5cfBow1EvAIqOsWWjtvNX636UgNIqhb tNAcPaIOxMoHuG9aI-tRZEZf7qfx8XvJDNNX8DmSacj0ieB2F_jRXg1eerG6HuFK_7Pj H4lGlkdCMLPapDVk50RknMjX3E91XFI30GvAEV7tNlhIZUhh7H 8Vf5jC8vSdEJOxzmZjLqtkfVTHC3KXEwCN-xI_DgSTe3KZn8NIG9TvdUp9V-2faPgD3VgL6jDPqqWIRiqHROypJWLV5hfFva6JXFBXIT4HrJnJ OTfbtL9lMp6m1G5c_Gx6NtvDK3uphYzghksCQ3WeOOwZ6NJxB8 9GS9AO4al1ae9QwmG9DU21MbZfh51AIwieUiWBOFqjJbfgOKKf 6Pd4rjlHs20b0Ysh5dOpnkeWH5VDM7r2i9BN7cmBaCR3SsD3s_ Ky71LVG9xInI3pVxs3Ry2A=w400-no
It did not take long after I was able to drive that I started pursuing motorsports on my own, running "TSD" Road Rallies, autocrossing, and many HPDE/Track Days at Gingerman, Grattan, and Waterford Hills.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/orXLj8vyUFG7r4voKCCWsovOgosEl9a9gVE40LXlZcBv96Uohh vHDcHZiE7GFBgOdy_CuvpB5Gz06LdKV4omqDqZ6vN_fsFuN9Mw Cr9k10808vMwhrSAhceYz1deube3eWzJXKMnWyXUJt7_OXVsXg e7Rc_NsuBemeSGub7Zs2_tyHdHUl5zNbTYqwfuwn_KFMXjCLXn yt-vH8RlZE1n9Tu_uSNkzmvQkND8CQ0nuhO7HJacP6DU2tV3IjrpW K2Gb--dggY8_9sRnySpqh3RucxGy7pdikYqK1xC10y-KicRg5aBF9LMBu29Ndaq0wlKlZdq2MDLYayGiImUojRG2Lpusg zq1J7klKmnQv5_4XLVQch0-SiD7uyLneCY9WACdAxWClqrygz2XhWfMcaa-Wk55aZBFyjZ6aPVDYQILmlhvz_hKnIqLoqFd48tI0c_WogaDCf prWUR3X6AMAYpgeMzX1zvYuaSXJDKDgFQakiKqKtDbk2Zq5UzN SlT9VCoQGUUyf6Og-xj3tM2H0SYU_flDeFp4v2ox6ix7aiafxUHF3omYcIcAe8qeKaO iN23anIuuNilvrennHFwtA17RypC--IaitkGpca8iCQ=w400-no
Eventually, as it often does, life got in the way. Moved away, got married, etc. All my "car stuff" had to be set aside until a time it fit in my life again. One day in 2009 I was in a K-Mart and came across a hot wheels toy that I fell in love with. That toy is pictured above. I had to have it, in fact I had to have it in 1:1 scale. I turned to my wife at that moment and told her I wanted to build a Cobra and I wanted it to look like this car. She replied "Ok" and the dream was born.

Once again life got in the way, but the dream did not die. I did some research and selected Factory 5 for my kit, got the DVD, got on the mailing list, etc. One day I was sitting in Charlotte airport and got an e-mail from Factory 5 announcing a sale. I do not remember their name for the sale, but the gist was that the next 5 base kits sold were going to be rolled back to their original $9,990 price. I did not consider myself ready to purchase, and let the wife know about the sale, commenting that it was too bad we couldn't get in on the deal. Her response was "Why not? call them and order your car." That I did, and on Feb 25 2017 the Stewart truck pulled up and dropped off my kit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6aJuXzdaIb2h-_l2bkpytMbjKsQD2hT2Tj6Jk87QpZw-p2rq0dKnKYL7zSIwP-_9SKt0E5e0gVCzioB4OHwudFYDCW4bmUr-j6I6MOtF-qHzWzhQA6zeTN6aIhjNgc2WtSUxDtkoHWzZbkPAqM9ZdmD383o Dvm1a3QDhbQL2SPGrfhdSvVR_hsBlkpGZDEcx0XMOb_v9MFz3q oibqoaICLsJx3PiwSlI0QEjehfCN5hGtDlEZGy6nLUvQI4kZ_X oryPCmqmT0Cf7O4XIiJGq4XSn4XN6GlTV5YUshycCacKy8eanc ZCFO9GYdxYb4TwuCw-kzNRy5lonskzVQG4O9NQpP9KI9UG1PX9KHK8u51fi_tFqJp9nM t72Yk13cmXrFc-lZQCqKnojzos6KERlYg4b2ssBay4NVqYea-G_NCJAvK7pbaVVQXSy6YT5M3_ysHLopi62tuQZ9601TorB2V3q pIRUsgFaM1d6JO8nInrP_TKmWhQ-v4-6y9n2ReE8-g3S9bHt2MRWnwpMRXMegRbKu73QolYF1INVav_nDJAe-dHY4oUcF4T_ccLLsZxC5cESmDABGurvvSqM2CTArjN7rCvRYxq ky0J8e4Y1Z0S_lJFgz_tKbNoMk_rhWHiLAQcCS0jTLBoXESred KnaYoazaotw4Fw=w800-no
At this point, my kit was as follows:
MK4 Base kit
Powdercoat frame
PS Roll bar (wife required this)
Standard seats

This car will be primarily a driver, as we have roadster weather here in FL 50 weeks of the year (I drove a solstice for 5 years before my son was born and I needed something "more practical"). No doubt it will see a few autocrosses, and it will visit the dragon (I haven't owned a car in 17 years that hasn't at least once, and even a few trucks).
My intent was to not use a donor vehicle and it still is. There are too many parts available from F5 and other vendors that are improvements over the Mustang parts, and I didn't want to build a "new" car with "old, worn out parts." I intended to purchase a complete kit, as it would likely save money in the long run, but the base kit that is in my garage is MUCH closer to fulfilling my dream than the complete kit i was unable to purchase for ~7 years.

The general plan:
Coyote
TKO600
4-link rear (is this possible, I have not noticed any coyote builds that do not use the IRS)
Wilwood brakes (I have wilwoods on "the red car" and would not trade them for anything)
color: similar to above, satin green w/ white or tan stripe. Exact details to be determined. I will probably lose the stars, and stray just far enough from olive drab to avoid the military theme.
If I can get it done, I intend to copper plate everything that would otherwise be chrome. exhaust will be copper colored ceramic coated with plated heat shields. the biggest question in my mind will be the steering wheel and badges. It would be easy enough to skip the badges if I cannot get a set created in copper instead of chrome, but the wheel may require some creativity. IMO, one piece of chrome would ruin the copper "theme" and would mean considering keeping everything chrome instead.
Aluminum panels will be powdercoated (black likely, to match the frame) and after final assembly of the interior, I am thinking lizardskin inside for heat/sound insulation.
I intend to replace visible rivets with either black (on aluminum panels) or copper (elsewhere) following the lack of chrome.

This will be a very slow build, as I obtain parts and build piece by piece. Additionally, I intend to do a full "mock-up" build before tearing everything back down for finishing. This is my "dream car" and I don't want to rush it to completion.

Once the garage is clean of everything that has collected around the car, I can assemble my body buck and begin the aluminum removal and front suspension assembly this weekend. Then I suppose it will be time to select a FD and begin looking for a differential. My neighbor has a spare from his mustang so with a little luck that will be in good shape and have the right gears in it. It will likely need a limited slip of some sort as well, I suppose.





I notice the date on my manual is September 2016 - have there been any major updates since?

[edwardb]

The general plan:
Coyote
TKO600
4-link rear (is this possible, I have not noticed any coyote builds that do not use the IRS)

Belated congratulations on receiving your kit and starting a long time dream. Most of us relate to that. Now the fun begins! The Coyote doesn't care which rear suspension you use. Solid axle or IRS. Just be prepared for multiple recommendations to go 3-link vs. 4-link. The frame will accommodate either. For your intended use including autocross, 3-link would be the much better choice.

[wareaglescott]

Congrats! Look forward to following your build.
I had some custom badges made at https://www.billetbadges.com Not cheap but extremely nice quality. They may be able to help you with your badges.
I love the traditional Cobra look but also like ones that are somewhat unique. Mine is somewhat nonstandard. I love the offset stripe on your model. Are you considering an offset stripe like that? I think that would be really cool and unique.
As far as the wheel the leather wheel has less chrome. Wonder if you could get one of those and do some sort of wrap that could give you the look you desire?

[JoeAIII]

Thank you, EdwardB
I wasn't sure if there might be issues with the driveshaft and binding as the axle articulated. I saw a thread somewhere that someone had a coyote build and had a VERY short driveshaft, but i believe they had the stock 6-speed which i presume is longer than the 5-speeds.
It's less that I plan to autocross than that I realize my wife or I will probably run one eventually. I see F5 part #13181 - Do they make a weld-in version of the retrofit kit, or is there an alternate?

[JoeAIII]

I appreciate that, Scott.

Stripe color/design is not set in stone as of yet. The model has one wider white stripe with two thin yellow pinstripes on either side of it. I was always told that when stripes were offset, they were to be on the driver's side so that corner workers could assist the driver in the event of a crash. That would make the stripes on the model incorrect but I agree they sure do look sharp that way.

Regarding the wheel, I prefer the look of the wood wheel to the leather one overall. Dupli-color has a "copper plate" paint https://duplicolor.com/product/copper-plate-coating - google image search shows some much more convincing results than the image on the box, so that could be a possibility for the center of the wheel. Badges, I could skip the hood and trunk badges (may anyways) and do something custom for the wheel center. I saw your badges in your build thread and thought they may be a possibility. I would think that since these parts are already custom-made for F5 it shouldn't be too difficult to have some pulled off the line for plating, I will inquire with F5 whenever I reach that point - that is a long way off at this time.

A friend of mine from off-reading says he has great plating and powdercoat shops, so anything that needs to be finished locally should be easy, at least.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thank you, EdwardB
I wasn't sure if there might be issues with the driveshaft and binding as the axle articulated. I saw a thread somewhere that someone had a coyote build and had a VERY short driveshaft, but i believe they had the stock 6-speed which i presume is longer than the 5-speeds.
It's less that I plan to autocross than that I realize my wife or I will probably run one eventually. I see F5 part #13181 - Do they make a weld-in version of the retrofit kit, or is there an alternate?

I agree with Paul (edwardb's real name) that the 4 link is useable but not optimal from a performance standpoint due to the inherent binding of the triangular upper and lower arms which can result in some unpredictable handling as it nears the limit. The live axle Mk4 chassis is built to accomodate either 4 or 3 link; the 3 link panhard bar mount is bolt in and no welding is required (some of what you may be seeing in the retrofit description relates to pre-Mk4 versions which DO require welding). Did you purchase rear coilovers and lower control arms for the 4 link? If not you'll need those as well. See that, less than 3 hours after your initial post and we're already spending your money---we're good at that!

Good luck with your build and keep us updated!

Jeff

[JoeAIII]

Purchasing rear coilovers and links is still a "to-do" item so it is not too late to change, and what's an extra couple hundred bucks, right? ;)

I technically don't have an axle either, but my next-door neighbor has a spare from an old mustang he bought for the motor out of, but I don't think I can justify the expense of the IRS for maybe one or two events a year.

My question regarding weld-in was for the third link mount on the axle - The bolt-on saddle is not confidence inspiring and welding is not a problem for me.

[edwardb]

Thank you, EdwardB
I wasn't sure if there might be issues with the driveshaft and binding as the axle articulated. I saw a thread somewhere that someone had a coyote build and had a VERY short driveshaft, but i believe they had the stock 6-speed which i presume is longer than the 5-speeds.
It's less that I plan to autocross than that I realize my wife or I will probably run one eventually. I see F5 part #13181 - Do they make a weld-in version of the retrofit kit, or is there an alternate?

Right. The longer T-56 6-speed that some use results in a short driveshaft and not recommended for a solid axle. But the TKO600 you list will work fine with a Coyote and a solid axle. As Jeff clarified, the 3-link is a bolt-in for your chassis. That wasn't the case with earlier Mk's, but was one of the changes made with the Mk4.


I technically don't have an axle either, but my next-door neighbor has a spare from an old mustang he bought for the motor out of, but I don't think I can justify the expense of the IRS for maybe one or two events a year.

IRS is more than a performance upgrade. It just plain rides better. I've had both and the difference is pretty significant. But it does add cost. How much depends on a lot of things. But understand it doesn't fit into some build plan/budgets.

[Yama-Bro]

Congrats! Welcome to the fun. I like your copper idea. It's something different.

[Jeff Kleiner]

My question regarding weld-in was for the third link mount on the axle - The bolt-on saddle is not confidence inspiring and welding is not a problem for me.

Yes, welding the banana bracket is prudent.

Jeff

[JoeAIII]

Time for question #1...

As they were screwed in place at the factory, my F panels do not appear to be well aligned... is this by design or should I adjust that when I drill them for rivets?

The top of both of them are well aligned, but the front/bottom edge hits the middle of this tube. There is room around the shock mount to move them forward, and the pictures in the manual show them aligned with the edge of the tube
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u0BnqmNU3Cjqb-X8wtoyEBxgUy5aaDpPCZ3xqU3hYIbXJPUoe8Ak6ku6cy7IxiP8 jP0AoloLhbbnVPGPbxnlPueG9r8a8nQJfzdbaw0waqbjZkStH9 47lhWRC23t42mZRigIj-jeDFVm0cMvx6hgzBsUpMVcnVt06h2olYJZuNg3D-nKKrc1WvqqauwbdaTrpQsApGP_8QwWtgktAAoivHZwJBsD17DD geCLDTXihP23FAQvpTse29GYIoLsH8jQKebb3nNB_cPcmkWVl_ 9alrxqrDdBjwksiOz7xHhvQZII-ZqxMPhiwcGShSNeqCMjKGZJZQlaEdxbF2OklBk3k79X8cQD7Wn iUsCixUaZD3oCe0hLCXlFkj64IWJkljORfW2vCVULk3mhcd_Uq PEKPe3yulNzsAJwgiE_tYb4Ue976cspjzJUZYu3NnZlSFqFRuW 6vOjsqQfk9U4Xvu9PfnqpfYwrgwZCTgRH8J7NthZS2NoE9D8bX 5JZEszzkqubABrW5VHPb7_FN4jjBegN5BUmIlfuxS-EyC3PSt9-5ke1261yXlhuFPTsu7WSlX4YTKyox1xEyXEJIZ9RoLV5X0j7aU enxQ-Zk4MPEo83rleJUhTrUyHRzIVPSjC7Skd10mlvX1zteen1d7Bq7 joYQsk7FtH0e0pOwg=w800-no

[JoeAIII]

Question #2

When the time comes, where should the harness holes line up in relation to the cross bar there? on the DS thye line up even, on the PS they line up a little ****-eyed. I can move the panels around to make them both even obviously, but it raises the question of how they SHOULD be

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lovmtaCcFx2obwnLZIYyMWjjnVo5nW5TACHKTWWhpz2xjkngZP 1ebu9LRK2rZhdI1FJZ4sydh-CyKjD6pj8NpYN9ffjtRVJA7kmF37lkwPT1CEtQQUaobD42SUqF Iuy9hjXpUIPgWTxK0nJuUVTrAdzH_79U-MnuOsYxluWeqOzdz-GV9Ovv59RF8LuI_nOfWGQhiO7XkigbdHPwDdFCHHC4zvPExAGw bnJTRgm6xcziT-Qs2_aNuSEAE9VN2Zg3xfn0ruVzxA7jS4HTyKqod8uLno391bMU DBLk6r7hgUu5BiRhyfHfgd5PQnSnsyI8OvY08C946iJbd0moIh eNxRojJoeBkrHObd6K9d8a8tfIq9fLVDVyZBS6LxD8ooQ0cM0a RQR2r7vtkoQ7vVGlUt6n-LH2lg5ucLkJMTQrPy5b9q6IsgkC-I-g6mV5Atgu3S6O-jN8km4HDVi5uSpVuXey0ntUhN47DOvrA1aKHMEtf-YyBA7-sAMxkztzBO7tpwIM-2XLn6RNYyzdwT8vfNdDYdFdJ4_zoL_4-UYPPqOnVFkDgc-bcmQ4gqvfrOS0d88Dt15wwMGZZRFF-ritCGnAvBl379neIv7TSfCArPMygACFpSr63oHnc8UDPNGlwWa pm6LlECPIcinn3-2qEGwRAOJNd_HslQ=w800-no

and a shot of my helper practicing for when he's old enough to drive it (along with how tight my working space is - no basements here in FL so I share the garage between all my hobbies and our primary storage space):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w6uhY9bedmUdVK-KUsqKX5vJAzyDbPx-nJPRoLBkxskPf37nvhpoPXgedjkPcLVhbYM5IKWa4dNekFd0AF p48RRhqoAAqhyQOS5-BUbPjBybqroOTk0wb2ZJLyDK2xKhIdMOFc5f-eS9pUa5Pf5AUZeMd2zaytqUzIXJ7iQhajuGPC33pGTYNG0vqev Us3UuT04mkk6VrxqIq_Ao5TDkH0OdNnjUItYRJqjweG5HtBCSR T5kOl1Q1odbJNfj6L_9F5gvLdAxcX1JrBiNmxvsSGw_AoFOq2R r_INGniybiyAaM-qmhUopIvtP-here9IKximlyLYOvmqLO_jmAvwnu2DOpj39y5FDu4AHNi1E01B XRNcyiT4GLFTguT9H3MkJ_0Exp9NqC41dhXfUEgsQZ_ACDqnrK 2JNs_q6qIYOoAoQoxQHIrXP-Rx89Rmiw6H8EZ7L8EbbIDPXW36kNU8c_zVj5iFkbTJvu2OuXcw ae8pRaEQ4bxFtY4wNGUiHOHEau_7z8IzFuaHJXmnGz8tQ_3QSd yOHy760hdopDGl8mbDq0QtmI1ly0NSxkMAeaCiEF0PscgBOUxB dbwQD96yqucM1YIL8oGjnzR9_dyuL0yx-ys3vt0MClcFmxTqDkLJg3S0MfA68BX5BCXLr49uBz8S9YXhxxG zxQg=w800-no

[Jdav]

Mine were the same way, but it's not an issue


Question #2

When the time comes, where should the harness holes line up in relation to the cross bar there? on the DS thye line up even, on the PS they line up a little ****-eyed. I can move the panels around to make them both even obviously, but it raises the question of how they SHOULD be

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lovmtaCcFx2obwnLZIYyMWjjnVo5nW5TACHKTWWhpz2xjkngZP 1ebu9LRK2rZhdI1FJZ4sydh-CyKjD6pj8NpYN9ffjtRVJA7kmF37lkwPT1CEtQQUaobD42SUqF Iuy9hjXpUIPgWTxK0nJuUVTrAdzH_79U-MnuOsYxluWeqOzdz-GV9Ovv59RF8LuI_nOfWGQhiO7XkigbdHPwDdFCHHC4zvPExAGw bnJTRgm6xcziT-Qs2_aNuSEAE9VN2Zg3xfn0ruVzxA7jS4HTyKqod8uLno391bMU DBLk6r7hgUu5BiRhyfHfgd5PQnSnsyI8OvY08C946iJbd0moIh eNxRojJoeBkrHObd6K9d8a8tfIq9fLVDVyZBS6LxD8ooQ0cM0a RQR2r7vtkoQ7vVGlUt6n-LH2lg5ucLkJMTQrPy5b9q6IsgkC-I-g6mV5Atgu3S6O-jN8km4HDVi5uSpVuXey0ntUhN47DOvrA1aKHMEtf-YyBA7-sAMxkztzBO7tpwIM-2XLn6RNYyzdwT8vfNdDYdFdJ4_zoL_4-UYPPqOnVFkDgc-bcmQ4gqvfrOS0d88Dt15wwMGZZRFF-ritCGnAvBl379neIv7TSfCArPMygACFpSr63oHnc8UDPNGlwWa pm6LlECPIcinn3-2qEGwRAOJNd_HslQ=w800-no

and a shot of my helper practicing for when he's old enough to drive it (along with how tight my working space is - no basements here in FL so I share the garage between all my hobbies and our primary storage space):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w6uhY9bedmUdVK-KUsqKX5vJAzyDbPx-nJPRoLBkxskPf37nvhpoPXgedjkPcLVhbYM5IKWa4dNekFd0AF p48RRhqoAAqhyQOS5-BUbPjBybqroOTk0wb2ZJLyDK2xKhIdMOFc5f-eS9pUa5Pf5AUZeMd2zaytqUzIXJ7iQhajuGPC33pGTYNG0vqev Us3UuT04mkk6VrxqIq_Ao5TDkH0OdNnjUItYRJqjweG5HtBCSR T5kOl1Q1odbJNfj6L_9F5gvLdAxcX1JrBiNmxvsSGw_AoFOq2R r_INGniybiyAaM-qmhUopIvtP-here9IKximlyLYOvmqLO_jmAvwnu2DOpj39y5FDu4AHNi1E01B XRNcyiT4GLFTguT9H3MkJ_0Exp9NqC41dhXfUEgsQZ_ACDqnrK 2JNs_q6qIYOoAoQoxQHIrXP-Rx89Rmiw6H8EZ7L8EbbIDPXW36kNU8c_zVj5iFkbTJvu2OuXcw ae8pRaEQ4bxFtY4wNGUiHOHEau_7z8IzFuaHJXmnGz8tQ_3QSd yOHy760hdopDGl8mbDq0QtmI1ly0NSxkMAeaCiEF0PscgBOUxB dbwQD96yqucM1YIL8oGjnzR9_dyuL0yx-ys3vt0MClcFmxTqDkLJg3S0MfA68BX5BCXLr49uBz8S9YXhxxG zxQg=w800-no

[edwardb]

Aluminum panels attached for shipment may not be in the exact right location. The overlaps are typically correct (e.g. what's on top of what) but the final locations may need to be adjusted. Like the F panels you mention. Put them where they're supposed to be.

For those harness openings, that's on purpose. That way the harness straps ride on the smooth tube vs. the sharp edge of the aluminum back wall.

[Dave Howard]

Once you've completed the car, you'll realize the panel fitment isn't that critical. All the interiors tuff is carpeted over. Prior to taking the body off from shipping, it is recommended to run a Sharpie along and use the body to scribe the clearance between the underside of the body and the aluminum pieces that will seal against it (Firewall, trunk sides and cockpit back). Also, in the picture with your helper, the drivers side front footbox aluminum looks like the part for a doner pedal installation. There another piece in the box of aluminum for the Wilwood set up.

The build is such great fun. Enjoy the experience

[JoeAIII]

That was what I suspected.

Spent the evening in the garage. I have accomplished nearly everything I can with the parts I have. One thing I can see already - I will need more blades for my deburring tool, there have been nasty burrs on every part I've touched so far.

First up was the lower control arms, they went in with little trouble. I did have to file the powdercoating out of the holes on the frame, but this was expected from reading other builds. Then the uppers, aside from having a few spots that were too tight to get a tool in, and shaving the rear washers on the inside, also went in with little trouble.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RBKcXT8d_s4aQqV3MW3OKjooyr8hmAw7b6Y5n5Br1Ud8sqUZXH 3BAdjb_lPdPH1xT3jdm1oLXU-4wpMpa5dc9JCOBIG_YVlj5HEZ0boqrEm72RkhxE2YmWiuCrU39 hFXzF0Q4x1WcZnucSpQvwd4YtvC1QyPKAzlK2Y8r0iHM6zJe7I FMHHRJpWwgta6FUZFLvk6laP1q_wecgNDCCTFWrzIjZ0hVrJuG EgDikviYNM6zfBlz47QAJs8QK3uUMwXGHdeqbVv-42V_NfhUUxfWCVhWR58m3y-ARM3VLJQP2qgobTdZVmy9lFedI40PIfEoEdlrIDalcaye7NqWJ bjd4bgF3-XJ2qus-P7RZdQ801uwZuX6nR3Znm3YKDACzbToju-4TXsUlndj3jaS7cL4KLns7Pbst01bkJv1mMSBnwdtn8GIX92GM VGi_C9SSV37UZmg8mf7wzCHIDsKCZc1DDB5OwSJtjRzKtqv0Uw TnzCz7si2A7nr6LRDHdmZ1rS0qrhl_HyWrEAvmUWuMYbQaJTIq 19slb1z7GwvBGZj1ibhBkpZGBNWfQ2MlvDgIvPkKx9x7eoYWlc _9oS57JVpPd6hhObNqf4C21E5cWlM1dUGb9NmtRujck69gUTjh z0HW4OWQNv9FSfXfVZCGo3HyXi58yx4E9lSQ=w800-no
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I apparently got lucky with my upper ball joints. I was prepared to fight them after reading a number of reports of them needing to be cleaned up to thread in but both of mine threaded in all the way by hand, I just snugged them up in the vise. Coilover assembly was likewise, everything slipped together like it was supposed to. Installation of the shocks is where it all started to fall apart. The misalignment spacers were all too wide to fit and had nasty burs on the outside and inside that caught on the edges of the heim joint and the holes in the brackets. I had to grind them all a little smaller and chamfer the inner and outer edges slightly, they were still a bear to get in place. The top mounts went in slightly easier than the bottom, only requiring chamfers but no additional grinding. The F5 spindles went in just as expected, but I was surprised to have to use the spacer provided with the LCAs - I figured with two F5 designed parts that would not be needed. No matter, Installed the spacer and all is well there.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SB3GaQetzkp25PqmnlM23GHGnwfJoYlikMj6Id2Z0QaAlAzUbj Pld5glaf4f1CKMdcjXNTw51GLcXrRhGowJ734dRYp90j7KWkvx QYfG4mTUC4rxSUUqsUxFqZEeU5qK39zjKMtPlhDa0N48K6HM71 Uwr7KQj2TUxVIglb-4m8fIgr27JRcIGmHh9nxqOXpm2lbRdsaSk5LHt7QSF8BXmxg00 AoPpo3zjKHqnA5zDZ9p5b0oc4pHJdYCFTqONq9pCRd7GHXr1Qn 7DFDJHeqfcIvUio_ATIob3hRtw87sUvSEVaTiYN8VSJv_roUJH Fy4QJGqyGR1po4eLJ6eLouC2fBxqeC-06K1k36U7oWtvghXR-vr8mFcjeFLif6WAMh75AzCXoRKCTMbJzYiv0zHPolKsr6yk0dJ 0XZyhkAFz3QHNQKlhpBg5HJhdN3MV6YrZ8sBgc6u4tm1_vSZHg i3SnfVml6AYk6Q5xnNkLXawLlMli7cQZw9rLyLoFq8X3jkVQik Ih40JnAXKtAGP4cD8jnXQpY2qWp0-p3DTGCBEM6jyzDyBhYmsh4C3Cn6stlrt5l8e5VVehGAepIAFU1 rCTHS3amGWP0p6dOlfsNlF0BGlUXsbfWN2GvZQFScVQhXORuj4 TMOdAxlsiDMRldayFV8kBpXERPAoQ=h800-no

I did encounter some "work stoppage" problems. The first is pretty minor but I figured I would see what y'all had to say about it before doing anything.

The spindles were supplied with these bolt-on steering arms:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iZuxHKSGRiUzFDszce-k-nW7uJuKkgzBY6BFy5FsVF504MeXv82rx14afLczVBur2fsAHQo ifLid2z7Dc_XYl1b2PmmteRCAB7-KVPCdUgVMeZyPpz_Y7rQuVaCe5Ka-pBpBE5SQMNl1zzG0FA_GtykaZbGIZVjwKQR9fRSyzZXGYZO7CO ojoFkkW1MjHqkO1858i5VClL2bQ3v84d6Xryqs6WyfhuED3JQO ZPjBcWQw7owIgOgbvD4zO0etKhNmmQAcmtNbqP5Heldr-vYuVQlR3N5ign0wq_Mm7-csp919m5pB2Xa0EIl52PPQKx7YBWPKONK_qOg9cDWkeiRvrZVq CHrvqrLbLmbDYZHs_k-yMm_bFiOvybgNMhFpqgk2JwXEytsQ_-lPrWG-6h3POk4mYlxS140EIdtAnC4yzK8cSv9NkdgNw760o6YGyrUQs9 czF3pmjaMzYlhstFdTxggxmyZckn9avaUVr1eiP0Pf6_JyviXt bbTiAtkpB1wg2bFRdSMMIMMso-4t9mpui7ZmBB8MxLUWPKvo-cP3rCu65bIGhvxfeHbyBRFMPToF5tJCz5c7C18WS73XhVB6G5v aajlrN0chzPTHLOGrER916uH8BoBgxdnGxH5J19Cpp30hnxPmJ O8dusl16TPAg1JLb1S_xOPObQ=w800-no

Not only do they seem WAY too close to the caliper mount, but they interfere with ribbing on the back of the spindle before they are properly tightened. The passenger side is worse than the drivers
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/er-li0ReRWJD1w7zSEh54Rd4bLaAAE4Wc_UNsH5OkjzdhV-uLu4e3R9Z5G07EMjkWeT1SgeF0U-3XqTfA-UlyFo7-yUZOiBjg4c-hkoq6iO74KYCaOJFj0XX3qJFZibgHi6PMuCRTVb9sP36yYveiU Uq_OI_KG-S807LEvg3G6_PCt6Mugck5-Vxf05z2g73a87-Oh9ohr8jaMkUoansrMiQ6wlrExSC821Ot0mJ2Yni3KqGMaLjrJ kazPXGhj2DX9jiTcwVHxBbIQJwnTvhCT6vQWVzdweyJlM5RO47 nJHvA6OcwG48Tvf-FQKD94XCfE9BO8_h6KUOHpODWWzDYS2kpf-G6vqM9YPNyLAaf_lN6RwzfIS_8zmZnhKf8hu2pQqS9xd25tZJD JU1TmkALDtPb6FEsA__sC3BAW8kU1feGGWEj9nvd_-SW69c79FmtB9_JFVAWgBRbPKcyD2iWS9LGZXELDKUBYOS2QQ5V 9W8Rb5FoJrSrDVQH0IM_elB5rWXYjnq8WBrleA3MqBXMTXNr-_Tf8-G8DWTcNvSYzdiJpmTVorbruYlnR-v2VfKNXo3_itjI5kMOTahmdP5jg2Y4wyO1_WUyg0M7qbJ2i8TK tlBd8ar0gFmJTv8XC270QiEhQCUKzzg6vJFSGW8XOCpe5MJstF kHA=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3HYvtJ0lwIU3qKR14NaeOJCkmCAmLdaMb15gtLWWvtHYJ2j8pZ lJRqB5xM_FPaEPsMhqsiPZon8DOQqIo9oBQXo_yl-RIo0qfuIFdTHSKuzuK1fWgN48kBYKs5uuS7GYXEq_zzFY7rh4c zohnIxwFTMBuG55nOv_RpwjaWYsdUQDJCrctA0zSNdLz58Nle9 OR5RzFDn51KrZHJyGKpjF1h6PTozuQKQZ5Mmc0N4iOdXVrQMqw hYMTkNEVTSCtofhapxBoxm1XH3nBpNMHFD5TyNZePEKOhnG8To oKwUv9Kj5ySG4yobMvHuOMbfFJSqxcqlsd-E4SqoYACuInj2oG67r-kWi_MM-2u7-SWJnI1C8pj9R2UIjrlE7xDUgjLcqNvITUgpcdvHXRIDd_cP4n5 Zd5Fk0J4foR1339xKZ_zQla9eak88ahuHys-ztZqOqru9fkK9EZevsBYBfGX9MglJ7c8Oea3c85H-dp_lwKT2NBBqazPmW-JmTwwTMOZ4SNr9pelAk1YwhvY9d12S7gqFgUGIdhzZbyZFW-aRq10lX6alHJekHyfFBNCHJGYQlAsTFSED6KE_7iVhwU_EJTWX 2_xcv13JOuvtYJ5UD-21gAR66C_I06Kfpth19ZMiouM8weLhpYbcxPnq_t1r14YlBR7U HJUQ9mQ=h800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/itlV4pcEOCFA5inzzhgJpHSVKDZ5ZYNUOKENz1rjS2pSUeMo7j SYRie0-UBIF58o8HNKKi4Huqv_9kCPvXFrRsXgTCHANzzFXRBfygxJ_8I tJXOEMxcZbWGKvN5qLvIe5FWMFefyG5PZU_058x5_u8sEe5Gd3 jRfykzEi0PQ3330etKkZnZotlV_2b1dIx-BY7PaP48kHFWO6eKGvDWfG6UQGQsINQ_i9qNUZDo9t6Li1ir2A wINHxIDv5KW_RPg9AC_3zw3jm5VrPCdXHpOHZZjHdSzI5tXzSy yVUISjlBoHyeokBAGZHp7K0RRvOJTclLgGU8WubqIJzQdNunbF hdzi5PcdJkx_9dCm6CdowxG3HiljQwiPNlywTyRLuQR5Q_H9zj Y-3X-IC_XzHjEN01soSGhUra3KnNWPsuYgPaejRJ9X8m05SaX9U_qT5 7mF7osRGT_voGjn_qta9rck30jCO1vwTYubfH3AvzXR6eWcL0d 1jIoMnXdRLhz30OecROgKQs5dFpn8SZSh0F4k3rD666r0ysyjA w73lkhQUzAH8KTkUGCfiSlhIwUBedGOYy044c9IEAnqHnPzd5X bZB51hIwOUxVVZr1ToUFLb4lXAgJ2dxYf_8bxUPqZypHSytdP7 fuG97RyiwzFnvkhoERwhGXcJ2xdQ=h800-no

My assembly manual has nothing regarding the F5 spindles, so I am figuring this out on my own. The spindles are labeled PSS and DSS, so I am pretty sure they are on the right sides at least.

[JoeAIII]

The second problem, and thsi is one I cannot so easily solve, is the sleeves for the steering rack bushings are just too big. the ID of the steering rack bushings are .66", and the OD of the spacers are .75"
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bdYKnesEOmCl-6rVyogP5lXWwUgi6i8JIX17eVwCMP1Z1h3icM-vSZou2yGjzOdtpu25QSRMJuyXKin74Z4Cz8pK0wO8JAfMtUjdX m4UCZwH1fLHrTs7cqEBdeBVNo4bisDV2TjL-SDo9259l7Ei2xOHieriA6QJHol6Rk2i2XPGbtkmHQqwsVoBhS6 9vVTYIaeIiplaMMK9uHwHT2p3VvhU3tfKNnI2g7kVF9gMneTCP iMU1BKHw9JZMVkURHZj8DrLXIhykoE4J9nP2Mmgi6Zd0kise1I OEcyM3DlEJj-iKvbg_fU5AOmpGjjymOM-qd4YIvO13y3RB-nN0F6t616V4AMJclFr-YhXdyEMo8rm4Kg6ZKtP7OfQ0aHGBEUAfKWcOl5fAuxQHj6SPFD Q-ewniDQq-0fQ_VqHlIEW3hmgpryn5YYyxryLFCiuBLynwS-v9HmbpQCfJHnW3Na2zstrvoc5zUoyCSRQjvcJ4_kSWJ2BpgdJw-J7ntgHeq6ww896cV4O84bGYKC5msiDPFRzh70dTi0ZjmowpxRD GhxyMxynmBvrSfdcV6pYjY9kpo2b8PFtdBE5ClDU0RKvRPeHp6 O02P4_JfWQ6HKzFbTBs_3PpF8VdHWAvIpvNmR9FPrXSyBnAiaA G_9aZJBzvjf3lTGQwsLS1w=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nBWmprK_NZSp9cuU6FuRSAtrUbgRA8Y5BS_QAQf0o4VjokZlkA c-748667rpRE7D7va2kmFZuP_THnDmt3nNZ5v8caNp1pgeBHRpLc TexPx7T7FTvRpECUzoeVRioIsmUw0s3YCX6Ze4GeEl8hPAs6Z2 Coe16prvlq4ZTA3lMBcd_L0TkaI8bDv6XZ31NdJhc1jQLDmAeC p3l6n4jv5j-PfyVtJWFLkw01b_0Nf4-PQmvV8G5vf_pI5wLXk_L_e2o-6M_Rgmtz0Pyt05k2cyb9iIOefRAe-ldgq9oHrL85uWfOxJx6gWIMBQYIBLjElwv9mfHQbh-fcYhTacf814swhB9TB0AvTBh1QkDp8YHwPZfLkBlA0NgHsnoM1 1CWt0iB_tUqeRX600wFxSkfyKBLaoKtDD-Jq0QtbtbmJBVpFgv4LFMwvlqg_g1NrZ6JV9VvH_3nVFQ_xdfuF U-FoFSMDpjl5leCNL6IGyz-0IgRBHmZTVq5AJGTzTh3V5a8o5BFTigG8JwKz_YOqdLHi09Jgw F-TqdWH2sqzwr7Tj7JFjxAzihO02BYWSLHo8YhwtoNVOU8Kd5a24 beqdV_8gc4_kwqNpKwIsDe2x6ggW_atGdYfWbrupBjQ3uvyXgh LuryvdEysxpScADmmfwmcxLx6Ns9d6dLJKLg=w800-no

I do not have a lathe to turn down these spacers so the steering rack installation will have to wait. It is possible the bushings are the problem, since my kit was delivered first quarter last year and the rack came from a newer kit.

[JoeAIII]

Dave - thank you, that is actually welded to the frame. The aluminum had already been removed, but I am aware a replacement will come with the wilwood pedals when I order them.

I did not take the time to mark the pieces, except with their numbers from the diagram in the build manual, because I knew they would all need to move around somewhat to fit right anyway.

My next batch of parts is on hold due to my truck needing a new transmission, so I will have plenty of time to fit and drill panels while I wait.

[Jdav]

My assembly manual has nothing regarding the F5 spindles, so I am figuring this out on my own. The spindles are labeled PSS and DSS, so I am pretty sure they are on the right sides at least.

If I remember correctly they are actually reversed. I believe the reason is that it's the same spindles for the hot rod and they are labeled for them. Double check the manual (or someone else will confirm)

[edwardb]

Comments based on the build progress you reported:

It's not unusual to remove powder coat from holes as you mentioned. But it's also not unusual to have to "adjust" the width of the suspension tabs to get the parts to fit. Like the shock mounts you mentioned. That metal does move with welding. Rather than shortening the spacers, bend the tabs out. It typically doesn't take much. If you have a big adjustable wrench, that can be used and not damage the powder coat. Another method a lot of us use is take piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers. Thread it into the holes and use nuts and washers on the inside to spread the tabs. Easy fix. But yea remove any burrs or whatever on the spacers. Agreed sometimes they're a little rough. I just touch them on my disk sander and they're good.

That big washer on the front LCA is the difference between the FF LCA's and donor LCA's. The donor parts need the extra space so don't use the washers. It's mentioned in the manual.

You have the spindles and steering arms on the wrong sides. The brake caliper mounts should be toward the rear. The steering arms should point out not in. The marking on the steering arms is for rear steer used on the 33. Since the Roadster is front steer, the marking is backwards. This also is mentioned in the manual. Just re-read you post and you mentioned not have any instructions for the spindles in you manual. Obviously a basic kit manual. Here's a picture FWIW:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/th_IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg.html)

For those steering rack bushings, what you have there are the stock bushings. That's the rack you bought from me (right?) and I mentioned that I didn't include the Factory Five poly bushings because I needed them, but did include the stock bushings. You may be able to use them, but not with the sleeve since the stock bushings already have sleeves. The other choice is to get the poly bushings from Factory Five or the solid bushings from Breeze.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You don't just have the steering arms wrong, you have the spindles on the wrong sides of the car. The one you have pictured here is for the driver's side:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/er-li0ReRWJD1w7zSEh54Rd4bLaAAE4Wc_UNsH5OkjzdhV-uLu4e3R9Z5G07EMjkWeT1SgeF0U-3XqTfA-UlyFo7-yUZOiBjg4c-hkoq6iO74KYCaOJFj0XX3qJFZibgHi6PMuCRTVb9sP36yYveiU Uq_OI_KG-S807LEvg3G6_PCt6Mugck5-Vxf05z2g73a87-Oh9ohr8jaMkUoansrMiQ6wlrExSC821Ot0mJ2Yni3KqGMaLjrJ kazPXGhj2DX9jiTcwVHxBbIQJwnTvhCT6vQWVzdweyJlM5RO47 nJHvA6OcwG48Tvf-FQKD94XCfE9BO8_h6KUOHpODWWzDYS2kpf-G6vqM9YPNyLAaf_lN6RwzfIS_8zmZnhKf8hu2pQqS9xd25tZJD JU1TmkALDtPb6FEsA__sC3BAW8kU1feGGWEj9nvd_-SW69c79FmtB9_JFVAWgBRbPKcyD2iWS9LGZXELDKUBYOS2QQ5V 9W8Rb5FoJrSrDVQH0IM_elB5rWXYjnq8WBrleA3MqBXMTXNr-_Tf8-G8DWTcNvSYzdiJpmTVorbruYlnR-v2VfKNXo3_itjI5kMOTahmdP5jg2Y4wyO1_WUyg0M7qbJ2i8TK tlBd8ar0gFmJTv8XC270QiEhQCUKzzg6vJFSGW8XOCpe5MJstF kHA=w800-no

Once you get the spindles on the proper sides the steering arms will be installed so that they point forward and angle outward with the wide taper of the tie rod end hole pointing down. Pay no attention to the DS and PS markings; those are only relevent when they are used on the Hot Rod.

Jeff

[edwardb]

You don't just have the steering arms wrong, you have the spindles on the wrong sides of the car. Jeff

Yea, I noticed that when I looked again and realized something else wasn't right. I updated my post and added a picture.

[JoeAIII]

Yes Paul, it is the rack from you and you did mention that. The stock bushings are far too loose on the bolts, I ordered a set from Breeze. (look ma, my first mod! It's all down hill from here)
On the subject of the rack, will I still need to install the extenders? I suppose I could just pull back a boot and see if there are already some in there. Or I could check the manual...

Jdav, I was wondering if that was the case but "they were marked for DS and PS" - easy fix. I will swap the arms with them, I do see they have a slight chamfer so that will likely solve the interference as well.

I would double check the manual, but the base kit manual ONLY has directions for the donor spindles.

[edwardb]

Yes Paul, it is the rack from you and you did mention that. The stock bushings are far too loose on the bolts, I ordered a set from Breeze. (look ma, my first mod! It's all down hill from here)
On the subject of the rack, will I still need to install the extenders? I suppose I could just pull back a boot and see if there are already some in there. Or I could check the manual...

Jdav, I was wondering if that was the case but "they were marked for DS and PS" - easy fix. I will swap the arms with them, I do see they have a slight chamfer so that will likely solve the interference as well.

I would double check the manual, but the base kit manual ONLY has directions for the donor spindles.

The Factory Five manual rack already has the proper spacing. So no extenders required. Should be good to go as is.

Hopefully you saw the comments that your spindles are on the wrong sides. Not just the arms.

[JoeAIII]

This was something I had noticed mentioned somewhere, but in your image the grease fittings on the upper arm are pointed upwards, mine are pointed downwards. I remember someone mentioning swapping the sides to flip them, but it seems I would have to take the whole arm apart to swap the pieces with the fittings to do that. Is there a big different in accessibility up or down? Is that area (above the arms) enclosed by the body once assembly is complete?

Yes, next time I am in the garage I will swap arms and spindles. Will probably be a few days, my helper was not very happy that I did not go play soccer with him once he tired of using the frame as a jungle gym.

[edwardb]

This was something I had noticed mentioned somewhere, but in your image the grease fittings on the upper arm are pointed upwards, mine are pointed downwards. I remember someone mentioning swapping the sides to flip them, but it seems I would have to take the whole arm apart to swap the pieces with the fittings to do that. Is there a big different in accessibility up or down? Is that area (above the arms) enclosed by the body once assembly is complete?

Oops. your UCA's are upside down as well. The zerks should point up. It's not just access to the fittings, but the pivot needs to be from the top not the bottom. Yes, it's necessary to take the UCA's apart and flip things over so the the inner pivots are on the top and the ball joint points out. These come from a supplier and unfortunately need to be installed differently than they come out of the box. You're in good company. Many before you have done the same thing. :p

[Dagwoods]

Hey Joe, since the UCAs are coming off anyway, a few folks have pointed out before that you may want to have the mounting bolts inserted from top (nut on bottom), as an added safety measure.

[JoeAIII]

Step 1: undo most of what I did earlier in the week. Remove spindles, steering arms, UCAs. Press out steering rack bushings.

Step 2: Re assemble correctly
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qOQTbWyAqGA4dz5N2h-mbdnjGgCn2meu0V1jTn3QzCYQnnz1AUpyz1udc2lQ2R-K_7K6xt9BOdO-QqM95FxQxkHgPCwhOijA4le9T5ek8KuY09CRnejQfCYcwo88a2 Hld0Hk-RiVGVB67O1WbtjpIc3bA6_tLcZQbLOCEYpezjdCdBaEJANEYfk F54yGx-vMkj0dfj3O4pqntsk-AVcC-YH3BmnxVFmXlUrETRUQgouSQHHytGy2O2q9A_qbZnRArRRzxyo EubXpNX28whGjqYUoOlLD5e8RTC4UBuOhKLgehfg_5kxRBFblF BaJrHA2H8a7A_ZPL3zdWq7LVY8_1musTRMHs0Pq1jAsDfBcLQM NrxfnGhKCAS1u_Gr9GI8U9MpqfL4PyBdONsfev9Lco6Z6KwTGK NiMeeXtMMPJBi0YDgOnZmqpo5YrmTciwXR0FJg1koQ1yBl9twb iTpodN_VraxD2meklqTKqymxP93yMmFL6krcm_ZAf46CaZhBZ9 C_UBNYUG0R6chpN2agbUxnWn4_E-Q8zRJIsf-g4tIbufIDrO76JD3o7lwNrZUDI69cd1Xa2dSDSnPVi_apbQTE7 2TgwHECJKG6rSTPgumykqhPWkwDxOHDCEcTenivgkxCUeGUzrl 19K74Vgo0DgC_EUBqFD3uVEQ=h800-no

The UCA thing really bothers me - The missing instructions for the spindles are due to actions I took, but I find delivering a part that is assembled incorrectly with no instructions regarding fixing the issue rubs me the wrong way. In any case it is behind me. I believe most of the rest of the build is more "design and build" than "bolt together these parts" and that should be much easier for me personally.

My breeze automotive steering rack bushings are set to arrive Monday, and I have a pack of 1/8" drill bits arriving today, so I can keep moving forward. The trans rebuild in my truck should also be done Monday, so that should be the last unrelated drain on my "cobra funds" and I can start collecting rear suspension and brake parts. Is there a trusted source for 5-lug axle shafts, or should I ask around the local mustang community?

I checked my identification plate today for reference, and I am #9046 I am updating my working list of what needs to be coated or plated. I had focused on things that were visible from the outside, but had not realized how many "shiny bits" there were under the hood until I started reading build threads and looking at all your pictures. I also realized how badly I need to clean my garage, it's impossible to get a decent picture with out a ton of crap in the background.

[Jdav]

The UCA thing really bothers me - The missing instructions for the spindles are due to actions I took, but I find delivering a part that is assembled incorrectly with no instructions regarding fixing the issue rubs me the wrong way. In any case it is behind me. I believe most of the rest of the build is more "design and build" than "bolt together these parts" and that should be much easier for me personally.

There will be several things like this in the build. Remember that a lot of these parts are not specifically made for this car or are made for multiple cars, so not everything is plug and play. Yes, the instructions could be improved, but use this community as a sounding board and you'll get the right answers.
p.s. I made the same mistake with the UCA too

[edwardb]

The UCA thing really bothers me - The missing instructions for the spindles are due to actions I took, but I find delivering a part that is assembled incorrectly with no instructions regarding fixing the issue rubs me the wrong way. In any case it is behind me. I believe most of the rest of the build is more "design and build" than "bolt together these parts" and that should be much easier for me personally.

True enough. The instruction manual doesn't specifically say to disassemble and reassemble. But to be fair, hopefully you would agree there are multiple pictures of the UCA in the proper orientation. With the pivots and zerk fittings on the top vs. the bottom. The manual does make a point of saying the ball joint plate needs to be oriented so the ball joint points out, but lots of people miss that one too. Some do approach these builds as multiple "insert tab A into slot B" steps and eventually you'll have a finished car. Probably Factory Five is a little guilty of marketing them that way. But there is a little more to it. Especially given the huge variation of parts that can be used to put one together, and not every possibility is described. It doesn't have to be hard or overly complicated (and I'm not trying to make it sound harder than it is) but there has to be some thought and understanding the whole way. I've read posts where builds were even stopped because they couldn't deal with that level of uncertainty. Hang in there. As Joel said, you're just getting starting and there will lots more moments like this. If I haven't assembled something and taken it back apart multiple times, I just don't feel like I've done my job. ;)

BTW, the most recent picture you posted isn't showing.

[JoeAIII]

Fixed the image.. apparently I linked to it in a non-shared gallery. Typically I open a post in incognito to check, but I failed this time.

All the pictures in the Base kit manual that show the UCA don't match what was shipped at all - those "car side" brackets are straight, nto bent, and the grease fitting is parallel to the ground, not up or down. I did find a picture of the UCA alone, where it describes adjusting them, that does match and does show it assembled correctly. No matter - it is fixed, and hopefully the next person to come along will read this ahead of time and know to swap them ahead of time. Thank you all for assisting with this.

I have extensive automotive experience (I have literally replaced every part on the subaru above, many more than once) and when I read the manual, there wasn't anything that stood out as being difficult. I understand how all the parts work and can identify when something seems wrong (the spindles looked like they were on the wrong side, and turns out they were, in spite of the labels to the contrary.) I will move forward understanding that there may be omissions in the manual and to cast a more critical eye if something seems even slightly "off." I expected at some point to need to set the manual aside and figure thing out "on the fly" - maybe I'll just do that now and save myself the head scratching ;)

Regarding assembling something and taking it back off, Long ago I worked for a handyman company and we joked that when we were done we knew things were done right, because they'd been done twice.

[edwardb]

I expected at some point to need to set the manual aside and figure thing out "on the fly" - maybe I'll just do that now and save myself the head scratching ;)

No, I wouldn't do that. It's a great source of information. But you've got two things happening IMO. (1) You have a base kit manual which is put together for a donor build. But you're using non-donor components, like the spindles. You may want to spend $10 and download the complete kit manual. It might fill in some gaps for you. (2) Factory Five changes parts more often than updating the manual. Not meant to be critical or an excuse, it's just the way it is. The UCA's they have now, for example, have been changed multiple times. No surprise, unfortunately, that the pictures don't match your parts. Like I said before. Hang in there. With your experience you shouldn't have any trouble figuring things out.

Picture is showing now BTW. Looks good.

[mlewis]

I'm building a base kit w/ all new parts. The base kit manual is bias toward a donor build with lots of gaps.

I got my hands on a complete kit manual which has proven to be very helpful in answering the questions you have. I downloaded it onto an older iPad that I have and keep it handy in my garage (also can zoom in on the pictures and text so I can see w/out my cheaters :))

[JoeAIII]

Update. My Breeze Automotive steering rack bushings arrived, so I put the rack in. I don't know if it was my rack or the frame, but the bolts ended up about 10 degrees away from lining up. With rubber or urethane bushings this likely would have been nothing, but with the solid breeze bushings, it required drilling out the passenger side holes a little larger to be able to bolt everything down. One other thing I observed, the holes on the driver's side are slotted to allow some adjustment, but in my installation, the bolt was at the far right of one slot, and the far left of the other. Strange.

Since I did not have anything else to work on, I started test fitting and drilling the aluminum panels. My deburring and countersink tools are getting a workout. Here are some details of what I am doing, in case it is of value to anyone in the future. First, to protect my hands while working on these parts, I hit every edge with the deburring tool. I then clamped the panel in place, traced where it contacted the frame or panel it was attached to, and pulled it off the car to mark and drill. Now stop and think about if the placement of rivets is important to you, many of them are very visible, and think about how you want them spaced. In my instance, I looked at where two lines of rivets met, and wanted to make sure the spacing was maintained and there weren't two rivets very close to each other at those points. My solution? Place a rivet where the two lines would intersect. As you can see, some of these were CLOSE to the old holes, but not quite in the same spot. in fact some of the holes wound up siamese - I made sure to mark which hole I intended to use in those instances.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NQnOFY67dbVhHrgDFLT3d3DhzalAnMfwW8wA6-xjV7D3ZngG54-Y2XrDDan-cdq2-zNvxBEIGwv31WuA2csKNZpVkNQFaOzTAlx0dnx0Won132HG5kW 3vCDFSMInVrXsOmrd5CEoDRv91egdBug8jWAXHGa9ydlT0wkUY 80BRzpAxk6laPhGb8rkCgwIfjsJYCbM42S-JpFJ4JIbygvHMUmH3F4tYgvNsbBmvbEkjzuwiuq_59G-aynZZVz249u78mOHyMCuHXcV1CNDWMJdDGlGJ1UwsfOib3CKLJ WTcg8t7DU5YHOIoincGCMT_6Le1f4EoJAwb06Yb3bec_0PgiVG tne3sKRVYMhvmyNtxaBnbr2MAEupwgmV96oOhLF-GwgIA3rZP7bKOHONtgJGSklxVMHxwkY6GQxsxziS3Rbqi5CCxA iRhHAdSBzqYs-QRi6LPofHmzjt454olo3zlC5-bqBhb9BXlGL_g4DXhGXgqUTL2gkJ1oEyAaZiB1Si6OpqRxEDnm A7dNXkhiDSFx1WxZW2TpdxKn79NfqaExhw0xDil-gBWzyBU7rjBfDheanJwUdwSo_jgbZ1eHFE-ALbuYZ1hxybXp6lmo-FolqpFCVugAg3u7EX2hHbS9ARe_TBrMwj-HVsAlINq1cEAhhPEDkQy9L6Jw=h800-no
I drilled that corner hole and installed the guide with a cleco to allow marking the two lines from there. Keep in mind, some panels will have this on both ends, in those instances, I determined where the "corner" rivets needed to go, and centered the guide in between them for the rest of the run. In most instances, they wound up less than 1/4" off so the inconsistent spacing is not too noticable. Also note where you may or may not be able to install a rivet - on my PS I have a hole that is behind the UCA mount - I didn't bother to drill that hole on the DS.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4D9Nvgn0OtLtDMgLk0vfL-4ap1T2ItYkcHr0iZe0QNyNkBvs1feuPNkpdZYL1_FuuWV5BUtH I02ycwG4uhY4RRNTpN1tNzRGCcqBlJmdjDfv5Q_1Gq43xnKAzO u6h9OAghkyLHLOj26PJxZdV_eAKhl7Y1tPPyMylA3MNFocAr2H R_J5IdvjYWJ-tZ71wjIc5uaeVV9tUvots-gdqTf3IQJLDAhCQWvFPKLWamwLcZ2rmyfNMMeQO7-0MirbAebCORXtJwKaKFAOtXILUbRCKiEY8b3GSEMFgdcGlF9pI vViem-TMMVFqTXUTw4WfAdLdAeYzBUR0UST767xGUtXrcGSLzvKQhTB8 sZMW_cP6rynm3AEQdlue3pK-MiuLaOADvbVQ1bvMxSHoVM8OdP3XSTKqHFh8IRbz0MPUoPpHjH E0mAHCQbYCYp1Quy6uTyPqEenhGYvolfhkY5CHk_yxgA_LKJ4x BEEpGPnCEt_92QuH1xh9iY920k9LXC6gVmfgq65cx6tYOondus FKgAMrpxAGSwHohqHiR6HXkaJWGs_rckFKKyh7w8gpydcGJQCI Pz2cKdiSk3DlUcU9u_D4lbBkSR1oFGJuG7RopUTel_9URZKHpL FVryN-tTcCvLpgL1-QPNtWfh3_lG3u60Jp7kSWZHt03YHPQ=w800-no
Once all the holes are marked to your liking, drill the panel, then clamp it back in place, drill the end hole or holes, and cleco in place to drill the rest. On the firewall, where the manual showed a double row of rivets, I made sure to offset the two rows by 1.5", so each rivet is halfway between the two on the other line. the tow on the ends will be tough to get a rivet gun on. I used two different colors of sharpies, one for layout (black) then another for marking the holes once I was sure where they should go (red)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gyxmayoGU93WkWAYvb4HymWiovlHAugh7GNB5hLDcVoB5AKgCF wu3Mal74dW1DWx0nVriO8Hc5L3fybiA4Fa9Y7AW7nRDqGyuaEh 4az_CdT7jsVPbYhOJbuEBuKGu911Yc6Hqh6q9xn5kfVvg6DxEV PlipK0-CxZ1V_Zk6h9MNSjGgh-vqa-Fcl3g_5puWCIH8SCyLvOSF-65a2oSPfI5lO1GGqcX50ycxgBeTb-GyWYCXmm6ibyXldvvhivVUVzIJMR9rgrdZFXR25uhvGyCZlO-4imRCRqBuRs3JA8fm3CMKXWb-9WBM6cUUfTwCci15QpHIkEPjgnLWBZoc0_El23NJPH6t100UXz TBF8fJx9qq68qPFxnpGHmogcj7hC3Jl8-mBkBXsWXNzpoqEMRrCiyLiDpKpcyTKjL-ZyuvsyHvMJrsIQwoQwTda795vYHcoeh1hcX8esy_O04YtaLvQV WiWvti6V6lH4BmmLo6UolMjAAa3yMzMuAs0oGyOqknuoI5F8CV Gt6FnKYVydFR_ijdPanu1CyVEL9kLjOyJgvpgFFKsrjsDxabVE Joq5p3pujETw2mmyW9zH5IVNbe0JAnVWDibsfpzbJr5LuxYQ8S tkUC_KX4ZYlRT0Y0OCeSepblP25PrWPdtAmV2MNe0FBSOSOkMF Jw=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/spVwWFmG_5ThM2-Dqyjy8nHX5w6T4QbMud6Q4TaJZQM8eCctYlkRtMYPQ9evyFEY9 QvD7Tdco8wtfshtQ6jkY_U7t10SVub-xSF653Jm7nM7s2dt3WPHeH5jpw5NH-7cWG6X_94JnXBOJJYQF032AplgoxbaE7zareepuY8sQ8bkcm9q HTVpVaFzHN4L_R9cJ3hgWuCtWH85cPHCS78fpG63vvUO0UFVjM plA2rfAyFOLJGlBb-e6yCYLwjnTm4qYwjrwZlmgLwWHnUYvQiSKjG4iEtY85rUV6zh3 FO8XMhQ8Z9XcAPUkUoVa-PtD8nfqg6HM2pfuExijnyYdmCfJmbkdfVaCvONu1JqAy04v8Ff 6GxDAIzlltFtfroWuk_i3ZBPjSVTopPyUxoxcWMVOkNVi1R2vL i8ciTprtCdMo6oB9qcTut8ya9mWhUT0K0IrKJ2LujWWuUkdee-wrvyyLS3tDrXk44LtaV6rBWzV7M0N6OhMelUQxyIlseb_sVj0c md6VfAtaaBGd7NsS_MT3euvdBpmNJKdgCLeTenlonGJnqU4Rh3 riJnRuCpvYCG9S8qnFDiOHIZWri4IZZqQ8EZXTPkojXiJLddT2 xVbDC4_mvnX1uL4mpPujBqqZX_HvxKHCF1EG9-ddYvOLVJCB2-Tm8HsjU_Hg=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lNpdHmSh9qMa0qVGOsItSkUxoMzCMX0_8ZrMkcXSTwcY181ejX ZrHwFPSpaHEINAdhwT5tt0qMzNDpFYdCGoqkoVJkIRF7O7PKUQ TrqmG2rcoFQE3gCxxSh_5PXzhygL3aTyBUCGKsSUwYSx82Eqkd JGl51QAwcGBMMy083fi5LnsMP9fVcUuvOBe1Cw9UjqqLA7HNHO bP3Ach6lMjNkyfT0zguV8MllYa17gc1A4ZvR-_hzn-YO-gr_7nCf0LX367vUkGbk1vz_P4ymiAgoM9V1MUKa-7HAdZgX2wJA609ouSJC0aDOqwK-LyB_W4gDQSGb33A7LJM2wjGT3p31TMGVdi7WEAnWj2TfRjpm4Z YYaqTm99w6CGTd0H9AUVvtYnoH4or14CpgC5XcAwTzhPQje1z-7YsLq2Wr6RmvfxrbNZpLg8hb5-I2xa-1yttE9Y4sPCMe7gh5ZmVbjPA0di8x_Ld0kXGcYfu0kLdWRX2go s8-0AaerbfwKgJ8uwLtlK8icbw3yWqG3eZZ4eOnGw6gD5lgG7samk CSyuhCdui0uEQ_XQXOIfY64bHu1BiigFN71CjgIbx02FbaAcIF OCQNK085ZeB7-5dgwJKs1Jv7coCeiDxhztdNTe4VB-7iqUr8edj1mYZInOzdEWRhaFf7X1b9qQorlQ=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zeAWpep5C1bY8zljNgXgIm4Qmg7lZ8rgA85wV-54zhApr-ftJydjUdEOUtv7m5-HQmtIokjubqK5IKJ2ZKTQ3FxNGbdd7HlYNPQ0OyAGMrUa9W3Hl 3Xwd_0OgNGU1nSqQQ-KnMcsz3g8viPIz5BtIjpIFbG4qSqVXnGUiErVHeZoW6Voy2G4q dbyyxoIjpJ8na4xnDIRxg_D775NQojF-MeHlRyj6s_k7Ieb7m6cn9SBhgRatv4wETqgIs3-FNKdPQlWETyUjlzkM7KxB2683TmZaGwjY8qrBQ8i3gnFjWmmE6 01a68DvQae8rpc9utHzf568bdMCMvSjfeHsvKYjby8XI0Aw68-f9orn3gvrAnKksMnfaNKYrLsPg6WIir9ZN9hJHyk4jWMUwljGI 3s8Of10DCSU8WE9o5-zbA5vXolXHINra5KQW0twLxJLtbOBWVpYfCdPqT3zQXhSHrU0l rOgPtF1iwnXcot1l0Pxze4svWZfSHoTlpQEgDuM96GE_MK2eR_ 2bcQEPA3_6K9wifqh46cRkpWU8gIIkCYOWyBqGFG0QLsudjzQ-BZfbdkuR6_GnNkg_RZlfQf7twlo30l0uwFc31pr6lN1ylNpRSR-mYhf2IPsbA_979YqxhEltmzK1cWqBwMJM8lYkJJzUDffnoeIpO AYA=w800-no

[JoeAIII]

Once all holes were drilled, all holes were countersunk to remove any burrs from drilling. I hate sharp pieces of metal when I am tryign to work, and they can cause blemishes when powdercoating
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u-R2fXLQh5AQzVub9X4LOh7xsQwqonWnQ5Rm-FAputu7Ctyd5M42M0CzMUiOgZf974XGOlstyU0Hj4snzLnP2mm NwOyHIzW6bMyl2vzaCZJPTTgSNiXxuy9bToDvrRg648RYKEZg5 ToF7BTGm_tTG75VfgGNOyDqfztKYOylqqmg-_-6wALmJ313t_aP9aClYgnIQ8klxbE6f8t1JKUg__DxRnIXfasTc s6rCBgLvan_WOs7Ga8hhIcAOm-QwgNqh2ow9rAsC-NDoVbnF4BR_tvKL-iviNvW4kX2D26GrXVXva2SOLvFHPR171OT-_G8MsRg5WQGR-htmnR0k9bni3RtziCXCwQ_LBwSkjNvQy4Sswau3MRpedIfyN9S iZ9Gouf4TiOOWKNbe5_480c48NCqYnSsJ5PLaS7Eea0IttFQQq rbGRRDEs_cIqyB1k4NOjtwAP2t2kuVisJ3hr-Z_TLtvitFGOGVaLsEdxbU8PNG3_vz2R92Jw5_oTWg0hHW0dKAB 4rPtocQ9J1emTZwc5JDNp-J0jGniD85_tgyTZ8U0gChSyaakq_hEmucwMwZaipyWci8KU21H _1JR2zVHdskHzDmrC-cKp4AsbfIZKIQhdcXuPMVv2wngpqxFPsvEq9goyQTMFZ9jkmoX k_8fa3efJuZZVPCfw=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FL-XCIl3IZ-k2Y_QVByGyVOdWiiggut7RK5uc4clfsHQSvsX3nZy_zP6K_btZ X5WlNRS7-7AiPu6r8dD7ZQ6zbZDzdINgcd-FvFcqYJAOSONlnm9lozVoxcC6ZrmVRSr2qZb1ZpobLPvpW40CM VwRdYj3G0PmXwzIymgvHpCyRx9Fqg9zEGnHNEBNpVsJzuKQE1n Qb6KOEG6qomuiHXMDujmw1y4_zY-SNfRvLHe8V0OyKCkwBSUkI7ttcRNVLAVKf9ETiH5nfWm91dnPg QREwNXKEoa84STVOXRR3NSiiTLIFkwec2FCYjZSdGbpVuvA4D5 ulPULd9aRoqxRL3aOG98vgvnyndPyVn_pgj09tWvs0RJ4-_xkDMAl8MhgVds6JsZmiK5okcG8wAERL8Nezqi2ilIBHMpTQeK 4V6A-0LGqWQz7NshZDPT15rT5AASBneNdn8HtHrzeS3nxe9r-kV44ic7A-xsXaOAlZAJsQOWqyz9PXgUS7730pW2HM8_h5pVr3A70OZ5xYHe XrZxSM8c1jSIFrVoO_mJ1Ix0gapFjutbBcan0aE_9pqEQL-rOpPUwqmY5kTM3mjJm6cgan0K8CuXAe-xC1WOivqplI3AP6pK6Gin-3OZIFkxk6h7vY43BhJCqRdYkTlla6HFkOAyOs9_ChkSew=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gM9GAYoqvzJarKktgvSoI9yCwmN2VtBqfn4rngCKpoJ4jEZL8J Wz5d3YC4j37zYmq_f54tyS0-oJUALq6cFArh34hhzahmo3qV-5B3Tef6XVCRu_QcHk7hK-hlE8_yJVwB9PecIEPOvtOMlWHIpreWm1wgPXoumfh3Gc4fdQMr Vl8lXtlQYLziHMOLu24c_G3ZEPBKi0cLv9WL_53bSOYC-8xZGMNG35jwKsBHClg83MiznHFKvdEoLiWA1R96Z154YVB-sTwqvP6W2UcwzdkIJuCl2id-685_D7V5XKpVigVLM3ioZMBklgzIwHWGQzWT9Xctk_GtTjbPIl YQFQzp8JX0YCBQN9Q2c8ipy1_89zuPR9glx0_37G084-Fh0upDrhPo034WKudwoxFjSEIRAnoOSWVgo16hqkQRmovushUU f_MlezS8ctA09Gs-6AwgFG9fxlzbClZWCVxnZyuE4MKAbCBDbV21QWalo06Yz4zMGn w3kLzwylMouaNlW1ruxUKQN7fK0zBTXsVhBX_XIQyNEy9k5mC3 VrkBWeP3y5Ogez9SK8tXTwHYmy66UliS8QXjha_qrlIe8KqMEV P7i1nPpIFM9AXl_EztUZxPrcu-iqz68zSxI21rylLy7beej14Nw7sTYW3RuttfvA71r-XxUcdajpfg=w800-no

I have once again run out of parts (and clecos - I knew i did not have enough, but did not think I would run out quite so quickly) so took a break to ride crazy carts with my helper and teach him to ride a bike (he came home Monday and decided it was time to remove his training wheels, who was I to argue?) I will be traveling for a while, so I will have some time to collect more before my next update.

[Jungle Jim]

Not sure, but, in the picture with balljoint, looks like there may be a crack in the spindle casting? Depends on how much torque you put on the bolt, just a thought/concern. In picture #16.

Jim

[JoeAIII]

Not sure, but, in the picture with balljoint, looks like there may be a crack in the spindle casting? Depends on how much torque you put on the bolt, just a thought/concern. In picture #16.

Jim

This one?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/itlV4pcEOCFA5inzzhgJpHSVKDZ5ZYNUOKENz1rjS2pSUeMo7j SYRie0-UBIF58o8HNKKi4Huqv_9kCPvXFrRsXgTCHANzzFXRBfygxJ_8I tJXOEMxcZbWGKvN5qLvIe5FWMFefyG5PZU_058x5_u8sEe5Gd3 jRfykzEi0PQ3330etKkZnZotlV_2b1dIx-BY7PaP48kHFWO6eKGvDWfG6UQGQsINQ_i9qNUZDo9t6Li1ir2A wINHxIDv5KW_RPg9AC_3zw3jm5VrPCdXHpOHZZjHdSzI5tXzSy yVUISjlBoHyeokBAGZHp7K0RRvOJTclLgGU8WubqIJzQdNunbF hdzi5PcdJkx_9dCm6CdowxG3HiljQwiPNlywTyRLuQR5Q_H9zj Y-3X-IC_XzHjEN01soSGhUra3KnNWPsuYgPaejRJ9X8m05SaX9U_qT5 7mF7osRGT_voGjn_qta9rck30jCO1vwTYubfH3AvzXR6eWcL0d 1jIoMnXdRLhz30OecROgKQs5dFpn8SZSh0F4k3rD666r0ysyjA w73lkhQUzAH8KTkUGCfiSlhIwUBedGOYy044c9IEAnqHnPzd5X bZB51hIwOUxVVZr1ToUFLb4lXAgJ2dxYf_8bxUPqZypHSytdP7 fuG97RyiwzFnvkhoERwhGXcJ2xdQ=h800-no

After I saw your pm I went out and inspected both hubs. It appears the crack in the picture was a cat hair. Thank you for looking out.

[Jungle Jim]

Oh cool, good to hear, our family has welding shop, and just looked like crack, and would feel awefull if something happened. Good job.

[JoeAIII]

Here's a bit of a question for those who have come before me - I have a $20 of $50 coupon at advance expiring soon, can you make any recommendations on what I should pick up with it? I believe people have mentioned being able to pick up a standard upper radiator hose but I cannot locate year/model or part numbers at this time.

Another idea was a battery, but it seems awful early for that, I'd hate to have it sit around for a year or more wasting away.

[Straversi]

Motor oil, antifreeze, etc. Wont go bad and easy to store.

[JoeAIII]

Got some more clecos and got to spend some more time in the garage today... 3 hours and I got two aluminum panels fitted. The good news is the passenger footbox is all fitted, drilled, and clecoed. I will be in Texas the next three weeks, so hopefully when I am next able to work on the car I will have some more parts to work on.

[JoeAIII]

Too much travel to work on the car this month, but I did come home to some goodies this morning
3-link kit, rear coilover kit, wilwood pedals, wilwood front and rear brakes
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jhNKbpfaD3cW2nIHq84PczMWCcOCambM4bffLNy1_EegSKMzp_ Ekzx-Jr2Duak7FZ2lITpKJr-HpqOrbKEcPVaJ_ry7tC4mX_NVdp-3WEFsxM8Sr1UKxPVEcfekX-dtBTUkmVmhjS8nPBmdavrx-olxBWITvxk0D76322cB6Q9ukg4aaO90miVtcIyI62C2zl0cAhg 1UyQ8-cGLdvAxUo-kcV0cW4tBUwtJ2pVcRIimd5LxScYDHzVTfdpZKgcZ8Or8uJOHv HD3aq9twA8o6YtmmEQlEo6HURWmjCn2XwRnGqZ-ch_ZjIXclY8vYmHzhyvmZRdz206sCEtrLf6ckJnwKbNGXjiFu7 _MIl3zWVRQMomvZ1TaO1Ybw7lrN98_2Xh5yDze1kNzw9klUeCH snJMk04FgQMz93ELQvWipF1ENIaMJEhrx3_vK60rbikhwLf9Zk FRYx6ABiHXseniwPCYBmM9AfcnncPjOTeG2b-lu39GRmDD-MbnWB8uDm4b8r_OLwHEzpvJl6JbVzx8mrMFPhGLBO8k4bm3Vvh OH8E_IutAzptsMiuPx7bzTqd0xp9wZv3A-l0SxrwO9c1kRR-d2wiLIk0eM3voyGhrsJsz0k9f7SFgK8yipMoLMaGUBNHPdVORL vz8QENnF_q67Ce_icEPIEOr99w=h800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jhNKbpfaD3cW2nIHq84PczMWCcOCambM4bffLNy1_EegSKMzp_ Ekzx-Jr2Duak7FZ2lITpKJr-HpqOrbKEcPVaJ_ry7tC4mX_NVdp-3WEFsxM8Sr1UKxPVEcfekX-dtBTUkmVmhjS8nPBmdavrx-olxBWITvxk0D76322cB6Q9ukg4aaO90miVtcIyI62C2zl0cAhg 1UyQ8-cGLdvAxUo-kcV0cW4tBUwtJ2pVcRIimd5LxScYDHzVTfdpZKgcZ8Or8uJOHv HD3aq9twA8o6YtmmEQlEo6HURWmjCn2XwRnGqZ-ch_ZjIXclY8vYmHzhyvmZRdz206sCEtrLf6ckJnwKbNGXjiFu7 _MIl3zWVRQMomvZ1TaO1Ybw7lrN98_2Xh5yDze1kNzw9klUeCH snJMk04FgQMz93ELQvWipF1ENIaMJEhrx3_vK60rbikhwLf9Zk FRYx6ABiHXseniwPCYBmM9AfcnncPjOTeG2b-lu39GRmDD-MbnWB8uDm4b8r_OLwHEzpvJl6JbVzx8mrMFPhGLBO8k4bm3Vvh OH8E_IutAzptsMiuPx7bzTqd0xp9wZv3A-l0SxrwO9c1kRR-d2wiLIk0eM3voyGhrsJsz0k9f7SFgK8yipMoLMaGUBNHPdVORL vz8QENnF_q67Ce_icEPIEOr99w=h800-no

I have been continuing work on fitting and drilling aluminum when I do find time. It seems like it took forever, and there are SO MANY HOLES, but the passenger footbox is all drilled and fitted
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/twjYYx69TWfyKOZhSilu9JO4-eVKsJ3g8rFbm7ZzevOw3iA82eyoD_7LRkloC_l1gIR9ey1jsi4 bWLnwQHPl2GebgQIGisZPf-ROJIGmCwm2_jaRUIynCVF2InpFjcIzjxhmK-WSZ06I1uCOcynUMAEM0N--_95ZsSIagIELHvdkyeC_mcgG8fwJ_7GW0gCc0pcF-GhjCM4H4eAPV-ng_WAEfkws_0I0SuH3gMU9ufjAbNTbyVPxHVq8snwYAdCFkiwY qgTQlo-z3_7VHVcz0a9rjZqNIkZ4Z9twk0CwePXfXeHhu54V508N8tQf4 Cv5uyO3Zonbfzubh-7VFFVIXW07K6L27isOErEb64UulTHncTmMeCMgiSoqKRuXwIls IrtN8_u8QQ2a6l_fG9DTN82aQF7VKitw7FXltwqxTWms-iwBSdldQJknzjX9-2IBlLXjCQJ5RjCsZZm5hJ2DUQnMw_eMUyVNGrC7P-fWKrnpjoOUFjbw7A8y_uo4VsMQYQ4MgJnrzXIZbJCwKv9mO_bL 2dDIn6nujkG0rcXU66Fnz5u7rpMdn7TgnsPMlQmPo3GkRD1Ybz xDpZfNIaw5-ta635W25qq_BVb1U7rkgbIsAHlHJN6TURz7D5xw3pKULcC8BE1-g8trcYNBcHI8A9e2c5_-AsVQPg=w800-no

Also since my last post the starter in my wive's BMW failed, that took care of my advance auto parts reward coupon, and generated a new one that I have a few more months to use. Whomever it was at BMW who thought it was a good idea to mount the starter between the engine and intake manifold better hope they never meet me....

[JoeAIII]

Too much travel leaves me with no time to work on the car and a lot of time to think. Always a dangerous thing...
With the possibility of the chassis being a "roller" soon I have been wondering if any stock mustang wheels will clear the 12.88/12.18" wilwoods. They can be had cheap on Craigslist and would serve to hold the car up until I am ready for a permanent set.
I see various sets of stock 17" 5 lug wheels for a few hundred dollars locally, if anyone knows what should clear

[Straversi]

Having the wheels on doesn't help much. I was excited to get the wheels on, only to find out they just get in the way. Unless you have a need to roll your car in and out of your work space, leave them off as long as possible.
-Steve

[JoeAIII]

Goodness, how time flies when you are never home.

I have a habit of waking up at 4AM on Saturdays, so I have been taking advantage of those hours before the rest of the house wakes up to make slow progress on the roadster.

Assembled and installed the front brakes - needed two "thick" spacers on each bolt of each caliper to get them properly centered.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i3MNKiWoD-uvIEva1RrSrdQi_yIxc5hBtZ2cQgrdwdQp2nmrVeoxiqnqC0Lz AhknTI3XATxN3gDrhng_UfK8-lmxjl-1GrUYds_3v0VBDLnnX1v0x8CqDwq1INlberAM0N_WH4edoGnSk ObyX58KHkJb8wTZ3dkyHFrxTtoHYM4zfN4vgGvYrzN59WOdf3e-sxnykT9WDflUSHxAqUqRX5eEdhQncmsXYTox0lEF7s9zBZHTGN 3Qdaq8fm_vykGZtxo4q-ejecMVLrMIW8n9Uxp9dXFzHYBa0S_ur3NbPUgXmnx5DYEgeS1y 2_jSNem9n8urJIRqHWeAr_peJujbtvRJHq1Rkv3hZ2wVRGAxA2 h1xETeEXTnrEJwSYpuSlYpOLp5_2TWkCMJ8__huqWCyxHJq-k67lXw9ppDkRHJRd0gpzXXO_DscM7nrR58ruxPTJMONXKZqujT Fr6Xi2NoH5bvekTxlLJ_sc7hwlzyRQdInlE1jc4U_M-YvaYs4BgiViz_bEdlZ5bRtUi7X0_P-ZBuYVgc6jVkdKz6dZtRsy-AnlOz4K0I0HzTjzqpbeOFTNHlAnVnEhoZW0XGjFh7EapXKpcpt zfnaI1-YHvyJoeXegmD10vYzOQz4FGsq6FgsrhCxtqBdfylpFOwRMFeGx _NAzhOLoK7cA=h800-no

Mounted the wilwood pedal box - F5 includes two "safety switch" tabs now, one for the clutch one for the brake. That is convenient. What is not convenient is that even after taking pictures so I could (hopefully) figure out how it went back together I still re-installed the levers backwards. they are difficult to turn around once the bracket is attached.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_0j-CROjaPjpLrJCu-MAeP2HkgYu5kHAZsVQGuNP6GHCSrNCYjXm6WczG3oIQQubAjTh Uk2A6QCzF6tWw4PGCADxz2y32Md15wvlmVGqrX6AvA1gSPS7X9 _j6U-W6YZWB7gUnmRP21MTDBtnwdtoEf0RoEHKDjdoFEylhQVRnvEE0 odcWujahWm63SjwcBfsyXd7v5WZualGpQ4X2pu6M_-WrrtcExhkmO6HapPxOzlJ9ANF7l-UhGXbJ_X5cdlL4G6oJiryu9nENbIi1qI2WkW1YV0H1dBprT33o 3NHmCDiqmm4wFha4aVQzSfAZJ-7SJKoqkZpredZRN2ODtZCRuhnyOvgdzrURBHA5OgsSNJnQ6Fhx Wy2KbhFSW9tC0DStHDO-xrshrZi4e9CedW67OjAIhpGjVWuU-IJLHBuLmnrC6_QuGassVRa-sP016AhBUCnTGN0Ikjkn-0m0gnW9giJcro4A35yI2WcBfmQ8_zcTsmnprve_oUKv4n3411I NPg4-ikKXmmk7kqF8GM2j3pwivm56mvYws-6l01BnI_J8yRCXPyg70D53GPULhzAQehCJMulrl6oiKDxmr_f0 3wbQSr9JzzIdJ0ZxxcaMYE8Pdd1_fLYpMh039qflWkkOE-ym2QWBDAl5eKRPZHMwBo-Ero9ZmP_CA=w800-no

WRONG:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5Cnvqb5WKe9ddXhAI5uvNUfA4-JKn1K10FfiTFySpey1-4HOTobBTYuggsNtzl1xmIwSHuUFozSHLsxdH-T_6vRuHJ1OcZLZZhccG47GuL5p_jFSW6sXLVJwq2qMA2nBqH1D 6Kz9g4m5BEpAuIWYTg6ZepoZLVvHc32OF_ZZDKNmKEzcsuxKWp eeGw6VZUVI_0hdyR4wQjyuFu23vIzh75wKeWlpziJR8buogaD_ EakBmclxhgVDCZaoy-dCdAMu6c5kWC0jbrAm7VpeopNtxgFKA-J3rHjAzdO-oHMS6FhbKr4CY9qpBIAY2ZZVq0zoD4IDDvan54LLe_x2slVITJ dX7AAYILuz8rFhG_rdwNvS8yRp5mlxf5LgS67nyR6GZf9JIqLZ 9QufXa4XfTlua8cSp7_NZbxF6m5XEBj1oAXzKX7-voMRYCkOxWaJ6EbqkZzkNCrjvX8OPy9e5wxSL9-iIwQdbpkC_Tn0_GOlx-pBJyq_zptRZLjv33JarfjCaj9_4SkBvJWbGCILYuKRbNIZtYDf 6_e1HchkrD2NuOtEpyp1HYypxJkXViwkhuTwxYGZMv_cvxt_yf jdUaV6RW6YijcIL__rezR7YgI_K9Mka35D8c8Ti6SyPvdVPnnz QEBIQ3gwKIcJ_1RRr8U5CF6J4kd3iE-prQ=w800-no

RIGHT:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iTphGxDgD1nN7AyV1Q_Rb4MQZe338ubgO9oSqctaPLFVqxR8eP A5BCqbcLCvxqJZzGFT40UsUXgoEhYzt8vXlYdYS8-h_K1DzJAnDwpXExKLXAbn3wSLS52VbbgtXNoISCLBS7hEb_svz DZ1Y5P4IqGmvqPco8PpF_4f32_LZJZ__YunyuVVWMtdxiM0RAy r-jOY5ITbivgAUYRzmx7mxWaC-zD60qZ-_BkJ25XhSV3BHBbb69EQUUWjN-J6mwo4_BITwv_kUfea4HJWwFAhZ6eev6p3b608SVogfjNwU9jn LSWnDmYCOMx9y-5UrEe1gCNOJLRoojCGsPzobohdlDiNqdseLB5PeX3vBtJuwint K9ceHlJWFggGcFVTcBCuLRd6hkEyzun88t-RI3MR4ny9H5EIkSOdFar128BMWxr-Scc7oLLcqHrPYYwAP5lL9FF3J0xllPo79MM6xncUCsgh2DEIFi meO1LsRVUmqKFIqQ5PoRPIEVHcxtkFhph-tWLxFVNaPYOYqdXXTYN6YyJOn_9jEHWFJKXyR6mZ4BKd1_1igE i1E3J5Ve3v2WiV3OBlMJU55_uszJ07CW7lJZ2U1uGaUPaNj_B1 JWMLqYDUKnCrWjwOKX9oLVCbNj-NALxPKopZ2oMrCChu723FYLB0YAZZRGCLqg=w800-no

I haven't checked since the aluminum has been mounted, but it looks like the clutch pedal might not contact the cross bracing like they always used to. I have fit and drilled the DS footbox aluminum, but no pictures of that. The brake master cylinders don't seem to "fit" - I suspect I will need to trim the rods, but that seems strange with it being all wilwood parts. Has anyone else encountered this? I will try to get a picture but with the rods bottomed out i nthe clevises, the master cylinders cannot fit flush to their mount points.

I should be getting my rear end in the next few days, so I can begin preparing that shortly. I have mounted the 3-link bracket on the car already.

Reefapalooza last weekend, and hunting this weekend, so another few weeks off, hope to work on rear end and brake lines soon. Progress will continue on aluminum panels here and there. I find that very boring so I can only do it a little at a time or else I risk cutting corners.

[edwardb]

Pretty normal that the Wilwood master cylinder pushrods need to be trimmed a bit. Once you have the pedal box installed (maybe you do since the pictures you posted) adjust the brake arm so it stops short of the frame cross piece. Will probably take 1/4-inch or so off the pushrod to make that happen. Don't trim any more than necessary. You want threads showing on the back side of the clevis. I try to have the clutch pedal at the same level as the brake pedal, but depends on your setup whether that will full actuate the cluch. Regardless, trim that master cylinder pushrod as well to get the pedal where it needs to be.

For those tabs you installed in the Wilwood pedal box, the one on the brake pedal is for the brake light switch. Pretty straightforward. For the clutch pedal though your build plan lists a Coyote. The Coyote has top and bottom clutch switches. Did you buy the Coyote installation kit? If so, there's a different bracket required for that side in order to use the Ford controls pack supplied clutch switch.

[JoeAIII]

Got a picture, it's difficult to do through the hole in the footbox, but for the most part you can see the situation. the shafts are actually bottomed out on the balance bar, clear through the clevis as you see. I will trim them, thank you for verifying that. I know that one nut doesn't belong, it is just holding things together until the shafts are trimmed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/15PDUuXQqhBucQZJ1JvN9IBKniPji6Uf2oanV8QV3Z86KJea4o KTe3eHzyMD6QrfjaOKzi94uRaIvwKkgBfNo3UW8lLh9HXaEue-BZYuANZdhCPc9zh3VuPmldPXOLyv07osSD73aqftelSweNrGbg PfiMD0vOKS2J9Fxw12dbJGk9yEqX9lkDCCh2T69K2qtU6N-kkVYm9l_M2WMckQtBCCN7Qo29zOtQ01JLSeFGEI6XXJWLW8nvp Dqp6Sa5Sq7m5fXzFDS-HZlx9B5IOguObAR_vtDrLNQp1e_SqCDVuvgyKJcaVRhmv-0nrC-sDORHt83x9S3t-MAV18m-awpKo0Q8w75x00-MgoeeWC1m7Fq3xYMdg6m0HbChA2QqgxRlwbIr8P8lJwUJNavxZ syrmkSynz940psSAmYc8PzP6JYULwYy-XlO8GpqwhHn1KBNEy0x6ITGxd9vwvevahAl4aVeI19Agbycsap bU3y89JFjnaQ8IQLLwCV7MMxtWFFSjubs0aHHYlOPdjoB9UlCX 9W90neh7rh9ZZZuZn4TEUsN88_MGkt8VLk9Wko4wffwtm1eUbX dQ_MVvCkFJhf_tbu4es0aVBjH_s1RqhuE3uediq_CFaWX5-fBECy56TAWI7wgO28NKmWF8eIkaWWBLktJkc84sIuQ=w500-no

Nothing special here, but the DS footbox is fit - I've heard conflicting reports on whether the coyote install kit replaces any of these pieces, given the new sheetmetal was included in my kit. guess I'll find out when i order it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G9HfZrpKxwIs5OteuURRD9VEyE_rad0Lb-GIETgP8xofFMwR6Bg6dprveMM9gnKIEkLybuNUUSUBA1PDZEu7 5U7lKn5c_MB8u2lRZdbFriqjMFHWStoPsR5ytF38xgzbovlOA_ 2zFDwbs8IRJJSKyXi4c8nmz9KGi_w4nNBKHYlJINrjj34fbExZ ZraIu4sCaL_FQBtm-mjOTL96AyCsvJ9irU6G95-JeRbmBDjXCS-eQGNq5xLDkhMZIAoj7b9dmVhM8sxNfblXrf70la7DqwG-ZVJgVyS8Qcm0vnoISom32yeJHg28dyg6cJxTATwr45Sj1eHXXM DJJIDjO-QfoK-FTqQJICJ6uyp03V9FL49PYGbR6fFklzgd6FVeRucuhulghi35u NlmOuhbMsOuYAXu-eMwMlTKPNd0tfLlUcFN5X6byOayGQ1gCx82aSdIoNwZyQ23M3W bLcxVKeMmki2qlcgvqLN1LJf9of_Rmvq_o53Uj2GZcLNBkqaTJ YfR7KWundO092QWhUool9c845JL3Mv-knZJj6KAsdB-Yya8xtoiETjqInrljswnCN0kVJ7OYZJt9G9iCWL4-tfqzHETFS0wuBJxiIJwC_8wRfRJMY30ijzkeAT-0JeF0Yb8ITRG8bxg8g52wM0WJz8M3EH2StTl2ME_eA=h500-no

Finally, my RT turn signal kit arrived, it is even better than I imagined it would be, A+ would recommend.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R2cwhlWvsedMlcHintK0q7vKZHda_z2UoIQpkHUGKJqW__yubV 5j6-CnRn7CBbF0kNSm5IbE8alx3-2WagShxBEntVxknwdhuhXfh7gd-j3Jbnh41DMwtylggs32kuaYDjaiXDh3Zbo1k5i_VNnHYSOvStU hwaJb3SWWHx_mJbGUvRUk5AjpdAW9YOL3SbiIWV_7rqSknsSOf 9suGQ08a7v7SLtHUwfDAVpMzgPJIAFyvFiSQt5rM6t38m6OEVM lS4wu4HdA3F8cox4gk4fGJ2HU7HE_yKqWmsvlE8YYSVok5V_De C7R5zZxQBZQ1vp-Ms53n3W9DbR4P5q4veeRa9FgISPUqc3VEmpjCd-ALA2lq8BwV7VZo0zAC6WJKTvt09NmRNSKLZ4UKaRl4omYmkXx8 mFS8Azr1Xbnor1xhYc34jUiXL326QGai7lyQn_pW93J_yNalVd Z8BFVVGg8c1VqZ2FLQLcHL4Es-9AdY3OzL-ni0zdOoUH5h17kYpw_w94lmvK2X4-0V5D698PmUbMU1b_A10Nk3aiHQT_MWEgajAZNjHIBSZYywcyPQ Dv5amyIsXHpyExyir2KK17QGPCRgjwyKvaVXc1gDrN_rNPNEXX YKR1S8z04DvvECy6IxtpXbXGAC8f-Fx3ZrLo6b_jhx5cga2Pwgg=h500-no

To answer your question, I do intend to install a coyote, I have not ordered the coyote install kit yet. I went ahead and installed that bracket, as I may "tweak" the clutch switches, I will have to see what everything looks like when it arrives. hopefully engine/control pack/coyote kit will be here sometime over the summer.

[edwardb]

The DS footbox with the newer sheet metal isn't any different with the Coyote than any other engine. There are two versions of the front panel. One for a donor Mustang pedal box and one for the Wilwood pedal box. You're picturing the Wilwood version, so you're good. For the lower clutch switch and the Coyote, you can use the bracket you already installed and just put the same Delco style switch on that side as the brake light switch. Then wire that into the Coyote harness. That's actually what I did on the #8674 build because I was before Factory Five made up the little brackets to mount the switches provided in the Controls Pack. No big deal, but you do need to splice in the different switch versus just plugging in the supplied switch.

[JoeAIII]

The wiring is easy - I've built entire engine harnesses from scratch, re-working a few switches will be nothing.

I have the donor panel, but waited until i had the wilwood panel to fit the DS aluminum.

[JoeAIII]

Quick update, got a few hours in yesterday morning. For some reason I wake up at 4am on Saturdays.

Completed the drivers footbox and started on the trunk aluminum. Got the outer sides on and the lower floor then ran out of clecos again. That is 125 so far.

My neighbor has a Fox body GT rear axle for me, just need to pick it up one of these weekends. He works weekends and I travel during the week so scheduling even so simple a task is challenging.

[JoeAIII]

So. Many. Holes.

I have still been working on the aluminum panels a little at a time since my last update - engine bay, footboxes, firewall done, trunk done.

Question - what does everyone do about all the shavings from drilling panels? They are EVERYWHERE and no matter how many times I sweep toe garage floor, they still get tracked into the house. This is the only thing the wife has complained about, particularly now that our youngest is crawling.

I obtained a rear end from a neighbor and spent some time tearing it down - I obviously needed to swap the 4-lug axles for 5, and I am 90% sure I will upgrade to 31 spline at the same time. I don't expect a lifetime of drag launches, but i'd still hate to break an axle and have to fix it later.
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Once the rear was in, I mounted the calipers, so I could mock-up brake lines. I have the FFR Wilwood kit for solid axles.
The brackets ONLY fit upside-down from how both the wilwood and FFR directions say to mount them, and the pictures in the instructions. It looks like the calipers would contact the shock mounts if they were "right" anyway, so unless someone can tell me what I've done wrong, I'm going with it. The extra bracket on the axle will be removed before it gets powdercoated and re-assembled, it is only in the car so that I can mock up the fuel and brake components that must go around it.

This is the flange on the axle. this is the driver's side, the following pictures are of the passengers side. this bracket is "backwards" from the pictures in the manuals
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uG7rLrvqCLFev1WYNMLy7J-nXa1LMmmEj_NV7WmTlqborY5lVT37-GQabTM5cY7rM82I435hZMyoTEXHa0yKaJ-Ue2vc80hmuYofeu3mLVxD-fshzUF_XEcWKm385_Rsv3HKy2CMIhp9zmlC80W2ZEEfL0m3F5s qwg28rc3Wwg9N-4ZI519rHc6EqaDZfXO4pLMFfgepfD3Fz5LrzPMqDwclfRSeS2G 7jrH4wtBra2I1fn3O_cHZD_G09kkpNeLz_-JBLF6ZMEG5SlOrme337v9IZGTCvsfT3931QNZdh_yUNmxrnLhV yPDMY8St6RWzBavd9_XvgmSMc-CF47XUkWZU4PLYqJxtLSYrSJnqZ0JJRs-5YeqHYLc7vIiV2JqHg7RoFo7sv8uGgY_LdHou53nYyg3Ma1ydf 20lG6IgXDGS0UOwXtQNg9AcQSIPKfBU6lVFh9nDDeefNj30mLH DCHjcAH0f3Vy0Kf34uxZnWq9O-GPV-jkE7nlmY15UXhcoxOd4-unMF9YMK0qDIbyMWJyuEYjTYaPfHbtlu2tsYhnLqYT-8nnrT2gUCvtwqsi-9oz8VoxcK_xJCX-FD7QcCheMUFt7jlst7nycV2KtU314bvVnWXapSAuNUl1HbPozu tzPenhLmOpz2pztv6edgYUAPMOYAUkpnQ=w800-no

Caliper and bracket on the passenger side
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8soBv9K9V8cAhTDWR2-inig09ivTBZxvqMcu7p2Fux2OTwY87WojUiJo3iR3S_VS6JBa7 ljUKtqBQKtiq5d6310d3qdaP77tpcc-SJw3zC88yRtOxLq8DbLJjGfJ8cAGLGtICwAG8OkKU6QOGmBJz-OHmg2-d8uP8w9yBxEIvt87F4Ce0USiWRKCoz6wBPZRh7hNGTHdzOzhtD NvyL1KFz-lGIl5KqYGfWo8-d8dyGyC3Q41ApavIkAgLgq7javsIRuMRrTn6CmAA1KeN8yjE9E GatUza3437YtjK65xMvkUB25YThHFvgp0s3sPjHnlfX-tXKI5eQtuky0T0lfzGQlyKmYe8zcMo1ggIYshSVc851ShCw4mS qnVQjpjMrW9I5x0clEzRZMLLjqaQMeNpi0CFsF-VOT3Exg2CWXQhtxDJTQqSsQwCwU8J0OZRr9k8NgoLA8eowRCgZ UMlbjUTbFrFx38JSNGMQf5wlz-Y9GUbwxrfwJZiMg1KvIVvKiMAQUGqpfPIw2VG-iwhG_fEZOZYFlXcxBM9QGtrkTV-RjWAVvvi4fMLfdjeE1wjkZYR6RYGmqHfkwBVKZvat7JTtFfv4K E_-mTqjcbOWJBo-Go9Yx9o1v-qNcD1j1wS4Gk80Hta4IYznEe19Mq6Re7wrUSBn7mI-DnWg=w800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BY2yiNsYdv1KC4g6q64aoEFdwnVgyWkC4lm9rgzWwKdKFOjGiP jH_xZSxKuU_MIPtMwnnukExyRq8EA_CAKTKanRevB_X21ddmCh 8NJUkGT0sYoVvkHx-s_9Lx6wwop4kgqR7PUtJrSytNOyRL13O7IoW_ugYW6XF4TLbqB EMlfDZyTt7o4_DJdGegRaTaricyAnYxcXOly6yW-DIgbAThCZDKHhKLMyr4SHKMKzIR7Vr2HBBpq0Wh09QuhXqXeYD MQ1v6DyVbTzNCemuQBuvl2gNSesh3AZKJX2fPDM_nUnUeHZVRz o9W8_aGkWaHXxAi8S6fWAuTL_5UrrjM1M_GEN24VcS8kbaST-LQ4Vx-ty--I5i56YNBfRZvoG7n08N7GX7gwam3OuZ_IqUR3hTLbpNwNwxZOz Y8i8mOeyNAF7NQHk9P4OV13gjun-5YRzMt-VqfiFv602MOcJnhHWCvrPIY_c9-Db8jgKpCoIm2gKdIf3oBAw8bo78wWO6gNko1TUbqGo51Q5Z3k1 ZqKaU88TzMSjqxnJNOT1JwqhsJQfAPFmapbQlLR7lMFRWJEnGy IRG0k00dav0rDs8SBkOPaeSfIle8SozcNV4YdlOLkN2MhFjbtI x9OtD0t7jgiukBkhf3fpblMVTbg8RUMV6AFMC3D4p1o4wg=w80 0-no

I currently intend to mount the brake line tabs on the diagonal 3/4 square tube just above and forward from the axle. Of course I have not checked the lines to see if they fit there yet, so that may change.