MK4, Old IRS - e brake question

[John Ibele]

This is my first real post on this forum, after some activity on the other forum a few years ago. Life got in the way for a few years, feels good to get back to work on the car. No need to welcome me to the madness (I only go back to my detailed cost spreadsheet for a chuckle now and then), although I suppose welcome back would be appropriate.

I'll leave a longer (re) intro post when I get full rights, can post an avatar, etc...but in the interest in sustaining progress on the build, I'll just ask my question for now. This is an older complete kit w IRS, with the standard brakes that came with the complete kit at the time. There's a lot on both forums on e brake routing, and much there that I'll copy. The adapter bracket has a clearance problem with the e brake routing that was noted at the time, some used a button-head screw & counterbore for that location. My kit shipped with four standard bolts for this location, FFR indicates clearance should not be a problem...

But, always good to get feedback from those with experience on any specific questions, so here goes:

I can get the e brake cable in place without a problem, but when I push the caliper the cable will bottom out on the bolt head. I haven't loaded the pads yet, which might give me a better indication of whether I've got a problem. I'd like to know whether I have clearance problem now before I torque everything down. Thoughts on how to check and make sure?

Second question is about the cable routing near the axle...current plan is to pull it to the rear and under the LCA initially, then tie-wrap it on its way up and through the LCA, and then up and over the pumpkin. Getting up on top of the LCA immediately (and further away from the axle) seems like WAY too short a radius for the cable. Sound right?

From there I should be set...cables appear to be the right length, have seen Jeff's info on how to adjust length if needed, and Paul's background on using the Lokar fittings, etc. I haven't found the ebrake handle parts yet, but I checked 'em off on the inventory so its waiting for me somewhere :cool:

Photo is of the PS rear brake, taken from the rear center. Remember....newbie. If you can't see the photo just let me know, and I'll work on it. Thanks as always to the many helpful builders on this forum!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4589/38755238104_811e11dc5b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/223EJ5q)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/223EJ5q) by John Ibele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/familycobra/), on Flickr

[CraigS]

Ck build thread of Phileas Fogg (spelling?)

[David Hodgkins]

John,

I can't answer your question but I did upgrade your account for full access. You still might get put into moderation until you reach 10 posts if you put in links but I check that several times a day.

Best of luck with your build!

:)

[John Ibele]

Ck build thread of Phileas Fogg (spelling?)

Thanks Craig, great detail in John's build thread, I've spent a lot of time there. Looks like you helped out now and then. Nice car!

Although he had some fun :) with his rear brakes, they are Wilwoods, so slightly different challenge.

[John Ibele]

Thanks, David, added an avatar, and will add more bio info later.

My mother kept everything (93 now), including this image from a 7th grade notebook of mine...maybe not a Cobra, exactly, but pretty darn close, and probably my vision of the coolest thing on wheels at the time.

[MPTech]

Welcome back and good to hear you're making progress.
I have the prior version IRS with the T-Bird brakes, so it may not be applicable (I don't know which brakes came from FFR).
But my e-brake cable comes out the top, hard to tell from your pic if it can be swapped.

[John Ibele]

Thanks, MPTech. I can't find the right links at the moment, but my search yesterday told me there was a difference in the way the e-brake cable comes in between the cobra 94-04 brakes, which I have, and the T-bird brakes. But - still gathering info. I will keep that in mind.

[phileas_fogg]

Thanks Craig, great detail in John's build thread, I've spent a lot of time there. Looks like you helped out now and then. Nice car!

Although he had some fun :) with his rear brakes, they are Wilwoods, so slightly different challenge.

Thanks John. Indeed my brakes are Wilwoods, so my clearance problem was different. And I definitely owe Craig a bottle or two of something nice once the car is licensed.

As for cable routing, I did not secure the cables to the LCA at all; rather, I used an adele clamp to secure the cable to the rear X-member. Sorry but I didn't take a picture that I can find.


John

[Richard Oben]

[img]http://www.northracecars.com/irsbracket10.jpg[img]

Tried the picture thing but if you go to the link it should answer your question.

[John Ibele]

Hey John, thanks for chiming in. I ordered the Lokar clevis and cable adjuster set, knowing I'd want to use the clevis assembly on the brake lever side anyway. And a couple of button head bolts. I'll try using one of the cable adjusters to see if it stays out of the way of the button head, if so that will be my solution. I'm not keen on the reduced margin associated with the button head vs. the hex head, but the stress on this fastener should be in shear anyway, so it should be okay. I'm similarly not keen on limiting the travel of a floating caliper, so it seems like the best approach if it works. I'll post pix if the solution looks like it would help anyone else.

[John Ibele]

[img]http://www.northracecars.com/irsbracket10.jpg[img]

Tried the picture thing but if you go to the link it should answer your question.

Hey, Richard! Probably browsed through several hundred images...and, there it is. Thank you. And you probably designed the bracket for all I know ;)

So, caliper travel is obviously enough or you wouldn't have that as the solution. I'm expecting a floating caliper not to need much, just to keep the pads centered and barely off the disk...says the guy with still a whole lot more reading than wrench-turning, still.

I notice the photo doesn't have the collar at the end of the cable housing secured with a snap ring. Not needed? My cable housing end goes through the caliper casting just fine, but when the collar is seated, the caliper casting is thick enough so the spot for a snap ring is under the casting and not usable. If it is critical I can easily cut off the existing collar and use the Lokar end fittings when they arrive.

[phileas_fogg]

I used a pair of 1/2" e-clips to secure my Wilwood cables. Neither F5 nor Wilwood included them, so I bought a couple locally. Was it necessary? Depends on how you secure the cable along its routing; I figured for less than a buck it was worth doing.

Depending on the thickness of the casting, you may be able to just file away the excess.

Cheers,


John

[John Ibele]

Yup, agreed...not wild about that hanging there unless I have cable housing pretty battened down, which wasn't the plan. Good thought on the casting thickness, I'll check that tonight.

[mike forte]

Hi John,
Not to sidestep this but I make a Wilwood 4 piston brake kit with the internal E-brake. The cable never gets close to the CV shaft.

[Bob Cowan]

There's no way I would run my cable like that. Sitting next to the axle like that is a problem waiting to happen. It's going to rub on the axle no matter how you tie it down.

Re-route it so it comes up between the ears of the lower arm.

But, most people reverse it and bring it in from the top. It makes for an easier run to the brake handle, and a shorter cable that's tucked up high out of the way.

[Richard Oben]

Thanks for the kind words.

We did make the original bracket set up. It has been copied obviously. An e clip can be installed and we supply them with our cables, but is is not needed really the cable gets tied to the LCA and with the curve it pretty much stays put. HTH, Richard.