Rodney Archer's build thread

[RodneyArcher]

Hey everyone, I have been lurking around here for a while and have spent hours reading through the build logs. I have some quick questions about placing my order. I think I have missed the year end sale (50% off options if over $5000) but was wondering if there are any other sales coming up. I thought once or twice a year they have a sale?

Also, what is the typical time frame from time of order to ready to ship? I understand the shipping is a variable especially with the weather and that I am in California.

Thanks in advance!

[FLPBFoot]

Rodney,

Was just at the factory this past Thursday. I think the sale runs till Dec 31. I placed my order in person with Dan and got a $5,090 discount. I think if you call them (not sure if they are around on Saturday) or place an order on the website I bet you can still get the discount.

Dave from Marketing said they are running about 6 to 8 weeks on build time. This discount was a big success and they have a bunch of orders to fill. Our order is scheduled to be ready in Mid-March but that is due to us saying we are in no hurry and they agreed to delay slightly until we can get out there to pick it up.

Good Luck

Steve

[RodneyArcher]

Thanks for the info Steve and congrats on the order and upcoming build!

I tried calling them today and it seems like they are closed. I guess I can place the order online and adjust as needed. I have some questions on what options I want / need.

[RodneyArcher]

Here is what is on my build sheet so far...

MK4 Complete Kit, Powder Coated Chassis, Headers 5.0 Coyote Stainless 4 Port Full Length Headers, Body Cutouts, Leather Seats, IRS,Coyote Power Steering, GPS Gauges, 18” wheels/tires, assembled louvers, battery cut-off switch, front & rear sway bars, drivers side and passenger side chrome roll bars with gromets, Koni double adjustable coil overs, wind wings, sun visors, floor mats, center dash support, 14" leather steering wheel, double adjustable IRS front and rear shocks, IRS Center section, spindles and hubs, 12.88" Willwood front and rear brake kit, and the Coyote installation kit.

I am struggling with what to eliminate from the options (if anything) and what I should be getting from others (Forte, Breeze, etc.)

Thank again for all the support and Happy New Years!

[edwardb]

You've configured a highly optioned build there! If you're trying to get in on the sale, which is an excellent one and seems that you still have time, go for it. You're not locked in. You can change aspects of it up until the actual production time. I've called several times to make changes on orders I've placed, apologizing each time, and they said don't worry about it. Happens all the time. There are other sources for some of the things on your list, e.g. power steering, shocks, brakes, IRS center section/spindles/hubs. But the core of what you have there is going to be from Factory Five.

[RodneyArcher]

Thanks edwardb, do you think there will be other sales coming soon?

[edwardb]

Thanks edwardb, do you think there will be other sales coming soon?

Sorry, I have absolutely no idea. And neither would anyone else outside of Factory Five. As already mentioned, they typically have a couple a year. But the exact details, timing, etc. aren't public knowledge until they're announced.

[Papa]

Rodney,

Welcome to the community. I'm a bit envious of the build you have laid out. If I were you, I'd get the order placed on-line before this particular sale ends. They typically only have one like this a year and the others that pop up usually won't save you as much money as the current sale. As everyone else has said, you will be able to make changes to your order all the way up to about two weeks before your planned completion date. All you'll need to lock in is to give FF a deposit that they will take when they call you to review your order. Until you give them that deposit, you aren't committed to anything.

Dave

[RodneyArcher]

DEPOSIT PAID!!!!

I have waited for so many years for this and still can't believe iit's happening!

[Papa]

DEPOSIT PAID!!!!

I have waited for so many years for this and still can't believe iit's happening!

Congratulations! Now comes the worst part of the entire process; waiting for the car to arrive.

Dave

[bil1024]

DEPOSIT PAID!!!!

I have waited for so many years for this and still can't believe iit's happening!

Congrats! Its a blast, enjoy and keep us updated, we are here to help and help ya spend money!!!!!!!!;)

[RodneyArcher]

Paul,

Any chance you would be willing to share your contacts for the Gen 3 Coyote? I am looking at doing the same set up that you are doing in your Coupe (if the trans will fit in the roadster).

Thanks!

[RodneyArcher]

Paul,

Any chance you would be willing to share your contacts for the Gen 3 Coyote? I am looking at doing the same set up that you are doing in your Coupe (if the trans will fit in the roadster).

Thanks!

[edwardb]

Paul,

Any chance you would be willing to share your contacts for the Gen 3 Coyote? I am looking at doing the same set up that you are doing in your Coupe (if the trans will fit in the roadster).

Thanks!

My understanding is the T56 will fit in the Roadster with IRS, which you listed in your plan. Might be a little tight, specifically mainly for the e-brake (?) but I don't know for sure. As I recall, you may have to slightly modify the transmission mount frame. The Coupe appears to have a little more room in the transmission tunnel, the e-brake is on the top vs. on the side, and the mount was designed to also include the T56. So I'm hoping it will fit without any drama. Time will tell.

Regarding the Gen 3 Coyote crate, for me it's a question of whether it will fit in the Coupe and when it will be available. The "fit" part is specifically about the direction injection (DI) pump that's mounted on the RH cylinder head. Appears to be very close to the Coupe chassis rail in that area. Note this doesn't appear to be an issue with the Roadster. I haven't seen the Gen 3 Coyote yet -- only pictures -- but the Roadster is open in that area of the engine compartment. So should not be an issue.

I don't want to give out specific contact information. But I will keep my Coupe build thread updated with what I'm able to learn. I expect Factory Five to be following this as well. They were represented at the recent PRI show in Indy where Ford displayed the Coyote Gen 3 crate.

[Ray]

Where in CA are you located? There are lots of builders around that would love to help etc. You can add your city to your profile page so I show under your screen name .

Welcome to the family.

Ray

[RJD]

Congratulations, you won’t regret it. I’m two months into my build and loving it!

[RodneyArcher]

I saw the new Gen 3 Coyote at SEMA, unfortunately at that time I didn't even know what to look for as far as size. Thank for the input and I will follow your new build.

[RodneyArcher]

I am in Bakersfield, I tried to edit my profile but was unsuccessful. Hopefully that isn't a sign for the upcoming build...ha ha.

[wareaglescott]

I am in Bakersfield, I tried to edit my profile but was unsuccessful. Hopefully that isn't a sign for the upcoming build...ha ha.

Think you need 20 posts before you can add that info. Post a few more times and you will be there.

[wareaglescott]

I saw the new Gen 3 Coyote at SEMA, unfortunately at that time I didn't even know what to look for as far as size. Thank for the input and I will follow your new build.


I think Duke used a T-56 if I am remembering correctly. Check his build thread. I emailed with my guy at Ford (mutual friend of mine and EdwardBs(Paul)) this week about the Gen 3 coyote. He indicated the lower dimensions of the coyote are still essentially the same. The part in question is on the upper passenger side of the motor and as Paul mentioned it doesn't appear to be an issue with fitment in the roadster. Duke also used a coyote so with that being said it appears the Gen 3 coyote/T-56/IRS package should be able to work out.

As far as options from FFR I will throw my input out there as well. Like you when I ordered I loaded up on FFR options. Partly because they were half off and partly because I did not know a lot about the aftermarket vendors and some of their products that were a good substitution to what FFR offered. I also liked the ease of getting all the IRS parts and brakes from FFR. Simplified my process a bit. I will say in some cases the aftermarket substitutions are a definite upgrade and generally there is a small price premium for that upgrade. However when the FFR pieces are 50% off it now becomes a significant price premium for the upgrade and I think the FFR option is the way to go because paying twice or more for an somewhat upgraded option is not really worth it in my opinion.

I basically got all the same major options you did. I think you will be pleased. I was very dissatisfied with the coyote power steering kit but it is my understanding since I ordered they have significantly upgraded that kit and I think you will be just fine with that. You did not mention side pipes. That was my only other area of unhappiness in retrospect from what I ordered from FFR. The stock pipes were just to loud for my liking. Ear hurting loud after 30 minute drives. I ended up ditching those pipes for a quieter option. Not sure how you plan to go on pipes but I love my flow master slimline mufflers that I had welded in. They did not offer the Coyote full length headers either when I ordered so I cant speak to that. Otherwise I think you did very well with your order.

Welcome to the forum and feel free to reach out anytime with questions.

[FLPBFoot]

DEPOSIT PAID!!!!

I have waited for so many years for this and still can't believe iit's happening!

Nice! You will not regret it! Looks like a great build!

[RodneyArcher]

Thank you wareaglescott!!!

Between edwardb's and your meticulous write ups I'm sure I will reaching out on more than one occasion (if it becomes too much just let me know...ha ha). I spoke with Tony (Factory Five) at SEMA and he mentioned the side pipes as well. He described it more of droning noise though. I figured I would go with what they offered and then can always swap out later if need be. I would assume that swap should be fairly simple to do.

Now getting the garage ready and to hurry up and wait!

[wareaglescott]

Thank you wareaglescott!!!

Between edwardb's and your meticulous write ups I'm sure I will reaching out on more than one occasion (if it becomes too much just let me know...ha ha). I spoke with Tony (Factory Five) at SEMA and he mentioned the side pipes as well. He described it more of droning noise though. I figured I would go with what they offered and then can always swap out later if need be. I would assume that swap should be fairly simple to do.

Now getting the garage ready and to hurry up and wait!

Yep it is simple to swap. Just more money. We are good at spending your money here.

[sbhunter]

When I ordered my kit in November, I asked about deleting the pipes and was told they would not give a credit for them. I was able to delete some other items that I am going aftermarket on like the seats for credit. I figured that I would use the stock pipes for go carting and maybe some drag strip runs just because they are louder. They seem to be easy to sell when you don’t want them any more. My kit was completed on the 23rd and I am anxiously awaiting Stewart’s call at this point!!

[Higgybulin]

I am SOOOOO jealous!!! Congrats!! Keep us posted on how it goes!
Higgy

[RodneyArcher]

Is there anybody that has gone through the build process near Bakersfield?

So I have been going through the notebook that I have been using to write down all of my "wants". I will post here and gladly accept and advice.

1. All LED lighting. Need to find good quality headlights. I would also like to incorporate interior LED foot well lighting.
2. Dyno-mat as much as possible for both heat and sound. Open to suggestions on best product for this.
3. I would like to use something similar to this...https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9415548/00622 in a series to operate initial power on, seat heaters, and additional electrical switches that are still TBD.
4. Push button start (Watson's Street Works?)
5. Drop trunk mod
6. Turn signal mod
7. Trunk mount battery
8. USB Charger ports
9. Cup Holders
10. Pocket on trans tunnel for cell phones?

Plus 100 other things as well! ;)

[sbhunter]

1. Watson Street Works has a full LED light package for the mk4 kit that includes headlights and interior lights with magnetic door switches
3. I have used this style switch in other applications. The issue I see for this confined interior is the red safety cover. It has to be up to turn the switch on and sticks out quit a bit. Flipping it down shuts off the switch. Placement would be important to avoid bumping it on accident and shutting off your car.
7. Personally, I don’t understand putting the battery in the trunk. Trunk space is at a premium and it is a long cable run to the starter. I ordered Breeze’s battery tray for the engine compartment.

Just my 2 pennies.

[wareaglescott]

1. EdwardB is a great source on LED lighting info
2. I used Thermo-tec. Bought on Amazon. Cheaper than Dyna mat and works just as well. Very pleased with that product.
4. Jazzman used Watson street works push button starter - last I talked with him he was having some complications with it. He would be good to message about that.
7. Breeze forward battery mount works great with the Coyote and makes the wiring runs shorter. May be worth considering
8. I put a under dash USB plug in. Used the radio wire on the Ron Francis harness to power it since I don't have a radio. Bought USB from dell city.
10. I have a pocket on my trans tunnel I intended for my cell phone. I ended up just putting it in the door panel all the time instead. Found it was easier to get in and out of there in the tight space. Would not do one again on the trans tunnel but you may like it there.

[Mark Eaton]

I'm doing a trunk mount battery inside of my drop trunk mod.:rolleyes: you can check it out on my thread, I have posted multiple photos. I'm almost finished with it. I got the idea from 2Bking.

[Boydster]

I tried Watson's Street works pushbutton start with RFID security and never got it to work. Spent several full days and several phone calls with them. Engine would never turn over. Finally took 15 minutes, ripped it all out and wired in a standard ignition switch and voila, it turned over. Stayed with the switch and never looked back.

Just my personal experience... But I'm usually pretty good with this stuff.

[RodneyArcher]

February 17th!!!

That's the scheduled completion date. I thought I had more time...time to get some things done in the garage and start planning for delivery!

[FLPBFoot]

Feb 17. Dave said about 6 week kit prep time. Was pretty much right on, actually a bit faster than that!

Good Luck!

[RodneyArcher]

So I have the frame dolly complete and will be finishing the body buck this weekend. I am planning on doing the elevated version so it will fit over the frame during the build process. Things are coming along and the arrival date is about a month away!!!

80134

[lewma]

So I have the frame dolly complete and will be finishing the body buck this weekend. I am planning on doing the elevated version so it will fit over the frame during the build process. Things are coming along and the arrival date is about a month away!!!

80134

I'm planning on an elevated version too. Are you working from a design on this ? If so, can you share it ?

thanks!
mark

[RodneyArcher]

I got my plans from Jazzman, he was gracious enough to share both plans for the frame dolly and body buck. The links are in his signature but I copied it below.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24433-Frame-Dolly-Plan-for-the-FFR-MkIV-Roadster

Without having the frame yet I'm not sure if I added enough height in wood for the size of my casters.

*Side note: I used MDF instead of plywood (I'm sure it will substitute ok for this purpose). If you get a 2' x 4' piece as the instructions call for make sure when cutting it that you don't go too far past your cut lines. There is a little room to adjust but there isn't much waste when making these cuts.

[lewma]

Thankyou sir.

[Yama-Bro]

In my build thread, I have detailed drawings of a raised buck with a heavy duty shelf for storing a lot of parts. If you are interested, check out my build thread...link in the sig. I wouldn't suggest building my version unless you need the storage.

[RodneyArcher]

Quick question, when do you get access to build manual? I would like to start reading through it but my delivery is still a few weeks away.

[edwardb]

Quick question, when do you get access to build manual? I would like to start reading through it but my delivery is still a few weeks away.

You'll get a paper copy with your kit delivery. If you want an electronic version, $10 in the parts store. You'll get an immediate download. I like having the electronic copy even with the paper copy. Allows quick/easy searches. http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/search.php?search_query=digital+assembly+manual

[David Hodgkins]

Rodney, Congrats on an awesome order. You will be truly happy with the combo chosen when complete!

Here are a few threads to help with pic hosting, and maintaining your thread title as you work the build:

Embedding pics:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts
Maintaining thread titles:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19402-Changing-The-Thread-Title-Guidelines

You've already been granted full access so you are good to go with the pics, updating your profile and sig, etc.

:)

[RodneyArcher]

Thanks David!

I am getting 404 errors though on your links....

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks David!

I am getting 404 errors though on your links....

Oops! Fixed, and here they are again, so you don't have to click back to the first page:

Embedding pics:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts
Maintaining thread titles:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19402-Changing-The-Thread-Title-Guidelines

:)

[RodneyArcher]

So I'm getting close, my build will be ready for pick up this Saturday! Stewart will be picking it up on the 21st or 22nd and then it will crossing the country to her new home. I have completed the frame dolly and body buck and have started picking up a few tools.

I do have a quick question though, when the body is sitting on the buck what is the height from where the wheel arches are on the buck to the bottom rails of the body (see pic)? I am trying to lower my buck a little for more clearance going in and out of the garage and am trying to find the easiest place to get it.

[Papa]

I just went out an measured mine and I get ~26" from the top of the wheel arch to the bottom of the body (along the side) in the front and ~25" in the rear from the top of the arch to the bottom edge of the rear wheel opening. I built my buck a lot lower than you, but didn't need the storage that you created with your design.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4618/40272549141_d90d3062bd_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24mKkMx)

[RodneyArcher]

Thanks Papa! I appreciate the quick response. That gives me about an inch that I can lower it easily. If I need more it will require more work!

[Jazzman]

1. EdwardB is a great source on LED lighting info
2. I used Thermo-tec. Bought on Amazon. Cheaper than Dyna mat and works just as well. Very pleased with that product.
4. Jazzman used Watson street works push button starter - last I talked with him he was having some complications with it. He would be good to message about that.
7. Breeze forward battery mount works great with the Coyote and makes the wiring runs shorter. May be worth considering
8. I put a under dash USB plug in. Used the radio wire on the Ron Francis harness to power it since I don't have a radio. Bought USB from dell city.
10. I have a pocket on my trans tunnel I intended for my cell phone. I ended up just putting it in the door panel all the time instead. Found it was easier to get in and out of there in the tight space. Would not do one again on the trans tunnel but you may like it there.

I did use the Watson's Streetworks pushbutton start kit with RFID security. I am very happy with it now. I did have some early issues with it, but it was because I was the first one to buy the package after Ford upgraded from the Gen 1 to the Gen 2 Coyote. The programming had to be adjusted slightly, and I turned out to be the guinea pig. Once they ironed out the programming it works very well. No issues created by Watson's streetworks. (I accidentally pinched a wire which caused problems, but that was my fault, not theirs!) I like the RFID security, and it really works. I started the car, went inside to get my sunglasses, and the engine shut off because the RFID chip in my pocket was too far away from the car! If someone does drive off with the car, it will shut down as soon as it is beyond a certain range to the RFID chip. It's slick.

x2 on the Thermo-tec. I used it everywhere, and am very pleased with it. It does a great job of deadening sound and protecting against heat transmission.

x2 on USB plugs. a nice little feature to charge your phone if necessary.

Good luck on your build. I already miss it!

[John T]

I ordered mine this week. The winter sale last until Feb 28th.

[RodneyArcher]

Oh it's happening sweetheart!

81109

[SelectivePC]

Oh it's happening sweetheart!

81109

Fancy! Over-kill for the car, but dam they look good. ;)

[RodneyArcher]

Why overkill? They are straight from the FFR order sheet. Without ABS is there such a thing as overkill?

[RodneyArcher]

I asked Tony if he would mind snapping a quick picture for me before she gets picked up...

81354

It's getting close!

[Mark Eaton]

Awesome!

[RodneyArcher]

I got the rotors all safety wired and ready to go. I have cleaned the garage, and have reorganized my tools a few times an continue to read various buid posts and the build manual. I think the Kit should be picked up by this Friday and delivered to me within the next couple of weeks.

I think I have this build process down!


81452

[RodneyArcher]

So as I not so patiently wait for the kit to arrive I have been going through my tools. I have everything (almost) that is listed in the build manual. What else do I need? I have seen posts of additional tools needed (like 1 1/4" box wrench). Does someone who has completed there build recently have a tool list they could share with me?

[2bking]

How about a 36mm socket for the front spindle nuts?

[Mark Eaton]

So many awesome tools to buy! I prefer to buy power tools one at a time as I need them. I always feel triumphant walking out of Home Depot or Harbor Freight with a new power tool or hand tool. My Dewalt angle grinder is very useful, probably use it more than any other power tool with the exception of drill and impact wrench.

You need a good tap and die set. I like this one

https://www.harborfreight.com/45-pc-titanium-nitride-coated-alloy-steel-sae-tap-die-set-61411.html

This is also super handy

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afs-39314?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-marson&gclid=CjwKCAiAoNTUBRBUEiwAWje2lrrbIKqKq-3ljGWjRFY1ExFp6kRR2CNeMrkDbW32oiSnPGOugRVakRoCuSEQ AvD_BwE

[2bking]

Depending on how you are planning on assembling your kit, by the manual with kit supplied hardware or with some upgraded fasteners, you might be interested in investing in nutserts tools and a good supply of fasteners of like thread sizes. I used #8 screws mostly and a few #10s and 1/4-20s. McMaster-Carr has a good selection of stainless button head screws. I used over a hundred of the #8-32 X 3/8 length screws for things like brake line clamps, wiring clips, sheet metal brackets etc. Marson makes a good setting tool but there are other brands that work well too.

[RodneyArcher]

So I got the call from Stewart, she should be here either tonight or tomorrow morning!!!

[RodneyArcher]

She is home!!!

823238232282321

Now let the inventory begin, already have quite a few back orders but I am so excited to get started!

[RodneyArcher]

Inventory is complete and the body is off. Let the fun begin!

82485

[Yama-Bro]

Let the festivities commence!

[RodneyArcher]

Good morning everyone, I have found myself in a predicament. I have quite a few back ordered parts and a lot of them are required in the beginning of the build instructions so I don't know where or how to start. Here is my B/O list and ETA for each.

COO & Serial NamePlate – these are both created after a Kit ships and typically are sent with the last package of back-orders
IRS Control Arms – these are currently at our local powder coater, but because of the storm I’m not sure exactly when this week they will be delivered back here
Headers – as of last Wednesday the manufacturer said they should be finished the end of this week, which puts delivery here the end of next week
90deg 6AN Fitting – here and ready to ship
Inline Filler Neck –should be here later this week (again barring shipping delays due to the storm)
3/16” Rivets – here and ready to ship
¼”-20 x 1” Bolts – here and ready to ship
Double Adjustable Shocks – unfortunately I received a message late last week from KONI that there was a recent delay in production at the factory (for these and the standard shocks) and are now projecting us to receive them the 2nd week of May
Sun Visor Hardware – middle/end of May
1.56 Spacers – end of March
½”-20 x 3.5” Bolts – here and ready to ship
Aston Lemans Cap – here and ready to ship

So, experienced builders, what can I do for the next 2 months?!?!

[chuckster]

Sounds like my back order was when I got my car. Run your brake lines, run your fuel lines. Do whatever subassemblys you can. Install the pedal box,brake master cylinder and whatever aluminum panels you can put on Safely. You should be able to stay busy.

[RodneyArcher]

How do I run brake lines if I can't install the calipers?

[edwardb]

How do I run brake lines if I can't install the calipers?

The hard brake lines only go as far as the frame. Flex from there to the calipers. Just have to get the locations right. Agreed on the other suggestions. Aluminum panels are quite a bit of work. Another thing you could start working on in is your dash, instruments, wiring the dash, etc.

Your backorder list is similar to what I experienced with my Coupe received last December. I'm down to just a couple parts. Not having the shocks is a pain, but won't hold you up.

[JoeAIII]

You can spend weeks fitting and drilling the aluminum alone. I am lucky if I can get two or three pieces checked in to my satisfaction in an evening. Most of them do not require any other parts to be present

[RodneyArcher]

With all of my back ordered pieces I am trying to find things to do (that I feel comfortable doing out of order). I have stripped all the panels off and installed the upper and lower control arms. I went with the Howe Ball Joints and they went right in, really happy since I tried the stock ones and they weren't going in at all. (Thanks EdwardB for the tip on that one). I'm sure I could put the spindles, hubs, and rotors on without the shocks but I'm not sure if I should. As soon as my clecos get here I will start drilling panels and prepping them for powder coat. I received my POR15 starter kit today so I can always get the pumpkin ready to go and any other bits that need painting.

825158251682517

[RodneyArcher]

I was able to fix my upside down upper control arms, Loctite really works well...ugh.
8252782528

[RodneyArcher]

So a couple of quick questions as I start the tedious process of drilling the panels. I plan on running the Coyote, what is the general consensus of battery placement? I was thinking of the drop trunk location using FFMetal but then heard that it requires quite a bit more work and that the Breeze engine bay option is better. I am looking for as clean of an engine bay as possible. Suggestions?

Second, has anybody used the modified F-Panels from FFMetal? I like the idea of eliminating the bump stops and improving the turning radius but not sure how much better it would be. Also the added benefit of not having to fill the oval shaped hole in the PS F-Panel.

I am doing the drop trunk and turn signals from Russ and am in line!

Thanks for all the help so far!

[Straversi]

I don't think you will find a consensus on battery location. Stock trunk, FF Metal drop trunk, Breeze Front, top of passenger side foot box. They all have pros and the cons are debatable. I think it comes down to personal preference. I did the drop trunk battery and like it. Pretty easy install. If you have the latest version of the IRS, I believe there is a new cross member on the FFR frame that causes and interference with the drop trunk application.

I have the wide tire F-Panels. They seem to do the job as advertised.

-Steve

[RodneyArcher]

So I am a couple of weeks into the build and have had various feelings from sheer excitement to what the hell have I got myself into! The part that I didn't anticipate was the not knowing when to do what. Between the back ordered parts, ordering the extra mods (drop trunk, battery box, F-Panels, etc.) and completely disregarding the order of the build manual I find myself doing a lot of looking at what to do next without actually doing it. I have the front UC and LC arms on and I have started drilling ll of my aluminum. Nothing is getting permanently attached yet (I love Clecos!) and I am taking lots of pictures. I am also planning on going to the Huntington Beach event next month and I'm really excited to see other builds and get some clarification and some ideas on certain parts of the build.

I'm not sure if anyone has listed out the steps in order but it might be helpful. I realize B/O parts play a big part of that but it might be a useful tool for us newbies. :D

Regardless of those uneasy moments, there is no better feeling than walking into the garage and seeing her sitting there!

[Straversi]

If you had all the parts and weren’t doing any modifications you could follow the steps in the manual pretty closely. The more modifications you do, the more temporary attaching you do. The guys who know what to send out for powder coating and what parts to order are probably building their second or third car. I’ve done a lot of test fitting and mocking up and waiting. I didn’t feel like I attached anything permanently for about a year. And most of what I thought was permanently attached had to be removed later. My advice is don’t be in a hurry. You aren’t wasting time, you are learning even if you are just sitting your garage going through the boxes and getting familiar with the parts. You’ve probably seen how people mark fasteners with a paint pen after they have been torqued. That is good advice. It’s hard to remember what is torqued and what is finger tight when you are working on several projects or when one gets sidelined because you change your mind.
It will all come together.
-Steve.

[Boydster]

I pretty much followed the manual, but when I got to a point that I knew I wanted something different, I looked over the manual, looked over my mods and incorporated them together. Most times it requires a temp install and maybe leaving it that way for a while until other items are added. Then you can always go back and perm install.

Youll get it. Just take it one bit at a time.

They do look cool being built, dont they?

[RodneyArcher]

So I am still crawling along with the build, partially due to missing parts and partially due to wanting to wait until the Huntington Beach show. I still have some ideas for layout and would rather wait and get some answers (ideas) to prevent having to undo something later.

I have got 90% of the aluminum panels drilled, I'm still waiting on my drop trunk and am trying to figure out the battery placement since the drop battery box from FFMetal wont work. I have the center diff painted and ready to install, I'm just waiting for the weekend when I can get an extra set of hands. That thing is heavy and cumbersome! I also got the spindles cut and cleaned up and the studs hammered out of the hubs.. I didn't go as far as getting the grinder out and cleaning all of the casting lines from the spindles but haven't installed them yet so who knows...

I have been spending some money on the fuel system, modified F-Panels. battery box (returned), Breeze radiator shroud with mounts, drop trunk, and various tools. All of this adds up quick so I might need to slow down a little on that as well!

All in all though, the smile I get every time I walk out into the garage is worth every penny!832148321583213

[shark92651]

Looks like you are off to a great start. I just found out that Stewart Transport did NOT pick up my kit this week as promised as they are running about 10 days behind schedule with the nasty weather they had in the northeast recently and with some personnel issues. I'm bummed, but at least I have my powertrain to work on, having received pretty much every part I need at this point less the control pack and the alternator. Hoping to get the clutch, bellhousing, hydraulic release bearing, and transmission all assembled this weekend.

I ordered the Breeze battery box and going to install that in the front.

For fuel system I decided to go with the LS style fuel regulator and ordered stainless braided PTFE hose and quick-connect fittings from Racetronix. It didn't make much sense to me to use both Quick-connect and AN fittings on each connection to the quick-connects for the fuel pump, fuel regulator, and fuel rail - why not just go with a single quick-connect to the PTFE hose? I am going to run a hard-line down the 4" tube but otherwise all the flexible lines will be quick-connect for me. The price for these are right as well:

http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?Cc=FIT-P-QD&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=

[RodneyArcher]

So I haven't posted an update in a while but have been plugging along. I am still missing some key components of my suspension so I have been trying to do things out of order that won't have to undo later. I have finished all the drilling of the aluminum panels except for the trunk panels, I'm waiting on the drop trunk mod from Ron. I was able to make filler panels for the upper trunk walls and get them drilled and ready to go.
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I also plagiarized EdwardB's ABS cover and cut the upper tank mount out of the trunk and made a cover.
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I got the modified F Panels drilled and ready for powder coating and muscled the differential in, I really should have waited for help on that. That thing is heavy and awkward!
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I am working on the Breeze radiator mount while waiting on my fuel pump, hanger, filter and lines.

[RodneyArcher]

So I have taken a week or so off due to family events and life in general but I am back at it this weekend. I m so excited, I received my shocks!!!!! Now I can finish the suspension and continue with the build. Pictures to come!

[RodneyArcher]

It has been a little while since I have updates this build thread. I have been posting to the FB page as its easier to do than on here. I have been making some progress but not enough in my opinion. I have been waiting on some parts as well as just work and family taking up the majority of my time.

I have finished my brakes and suspension and just about got the steering completed.

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180422_161519_zpsatpacvjo.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180422_161519_zpsatpacvjo.jpg.html)
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180422_161524_zpsexokngdn.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180422_161524_zpsexokngdn.jpg.html)
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180422_161540_zpsypkkw0si.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180422_161540_zpsypkkw0si.jpg.html)
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180425_161231_zpsyitnpnwn.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180425_161231_zpsyitnpnwn.jpg.html)
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180520_153100_zpsr56ou4mm.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180520_153100_zpsr56ou4mm.jpg.html)


I also got my triple reservoirs mocked up and spent way too much time trying to modify the DS footbox panel to gain a little more calf room. I didn't modify any of the existing panels so if I run into a fitment issue I can always go back to the original panel.

Original:
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180520_140651_zpshhrgyiyi.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180520_140651_zpshhrgyiyi.jpg.html)

My modification:
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180520_140352_zpspefbrcc1.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180520_140352_zpspefbrcc1.jpg.html)

I welcome thoughts and critique.

Thanks!

[RodneyArcher]

I have also finished my drop trunk, have my fuel tank prepped and ready to run my fuel and brake lines and got the radiator installed using the Breeze top and bottom mounts.

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180508_094819_zpsrvizakrr.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180508_094819_zpsrvizakrr.jpg.html)
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180410_183003_zpslegx1toz.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180410_183003_zpslegx1toz.jpg.html)
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180423_143110_zpsgviswr5f.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180423_143110_zpsgviswr5f.jpg.html)
http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180410_183114_zpsion0itjk.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180410_183114_zpsion0itjk.jpg.html)

I am currently waiting on my hydraulic clutch from Forte as well as a host of other little goodies that have a way of emptying the wallet way too quickly!

[edwardb]

Looking good. You're making great progress. One thing to check. On my Gen 3 Coupe build with those same Koni silver double adjustable shocks, the instructions say to mount the four upper ends in the top "race" height holes. Even when mounting the rest of the suspension in the lower holes as you've done. The two holes (race and street) for the suspension mounting is a relatively new add to these kits, and the Roadster and Gen 3 Coupe suspensions are basically the same. If your instructions don't say to mount them in the other holes, I'd recommend calling Factory Five and asking. It's possible the manual may not have kept up the change.

This is what my Gen 3 Coupe manual says: "If using the silver double adjustable shocks, these must be mounted with the body of the shock down in the top hole location for both street and race cars." I don't know the reason for this difference with the double adjustable shocks. But I'm taking their word for it.

[RodneyArcher]

Thanks Paul!

I have read / heard the same thing about the mounting position, the issue is that the collar of the shock body hits the tabs and prevents it from mounting in the top holes. I even tried to turn the shock upside down with no difference. I will send FFR a quick email and see what they say. Thanks for the heads up.

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180522_152105_zpsm4tv4lug.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180522_152105_zpsm4tv4lug.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul!

I have read / heard the same thing about the mounting position, the issue is that the collar of the shock body hits the tabs and prevents it from mounting in the top holes. I even tried to turn the shock upside down with no difference. I will send FFR a quick email and see what they say. Thanks for the heads up.

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180522_152105_zpsm4tv4lug.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180522_152105_zpsm4tv4lug.jpg.html)

Hmmm. First, upside down isn't an option. Those particular shocks have to be body side down in order to function properly. Something has changed though. The top of the shock body is different. Those wouldn't have fit in the top hole of mine either. Here's a pic. Something else to ask Factory Five about.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0404_cropped_zpshgdo3kpo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0404_cropped_zpshgdo3kpo.jpg.html)

[RodneyArcher]

It definitely looks like the top of your shocks have a different (longer) mounting hat. Here is another angle...

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/rodneyarcher/20180522_155415_zpsa7dsmyjx.jpg (http://s1152.photobucket.com/user/rodneyarcher/media/20180522_155415_zpsa7dsmyjx.jpg.html)

[shark92651]

Nice progress! I got my Russ Thompson trunk kit assembled as well. I'll probably cut the diagonals this weekend :eek:

[RodneyArcher]

Paul, or anybody else running the silver Koni's, do you have a pic of the rear shock mounting? I have reached out to FFR and think I may have 4 rear shocks. I didn't realize the rears were different than the fronts. ugh!

[RodneyArcher]

So after a few emails and phone calls to FFR we have determined that I have 4 shocks meant for a rear solid axle. As soon as the correct ones are back in stock they will be shipped my way for the swap out.

[edwardb]

Paul, or anybody else running the silver Koni's, do you have a pic of the rear shock mounting? I have reached out to FFR and think I may have 4 rear shocks. I didn't realize the rears were different than the fronts. ugh!

I've done two builds with the silver double adjustable Koni's. Both 2015+ IRS builds. In both cases, the silver Koni's were all exactly the same. Just like the one I pictured before.


So after a few emails and phone calls to FFR we have determined that I have 4 shocks meant for a rear solid axle. As soon as the correct ones are back in stock they will be shipped my way for the swap out.

Good deal. Glad you got it sorted out.