View Full Version : Rear control arm bushings
I'm replacing my mustang rear control arms, upper and lower with after market units that have polyurethane bushings, i think i might need to replace the ones that are on the diff. Housing for the upper control arms, anybody done this and is it the thing to do?
Thanks
Walt
Is this for a 4 link car?
TexasAviator
12-23-2017, 08:44 PM
if he is using the diff links its a 4 link. They are pretty tuff to get out without the right tool. Use a specialty tool unless you can beat them out with the diff removed from the car. I removed mine but used a 3/link. You will have your work cut out for you without the right tool.
TexasAviator
12-23-2017, 08:45 PM
here is the tool. http://m.uprproducts.com/mustang-8-inch-bushing-removal-tool.html
if he is using the diff links its a 4 link. They are pretty tuff to get out without the right tool. Use a specialty tool unless you can beat them out with the diff removed from the car. I removed mine but used a 3/link. You will have your work cut out for you without the right tool.
Yes a real PIA to get out. I had to remove mine for the installation of the Vintage Performance 3 link brace kits.
Sanford
12-24-2017, 06:21 AM
Its been said that you don't want poly bushings in the upper arms on a 4-link. For proper operation, the uppers need rubber to stretch and compress to reduce binding. Its usually recommended to go with Ford performance upper arms with a stiffer rubber bushing. The lower arms move in a different arc than the uppers, and in a different angle from the lowers. The lowers are not parallel to the car centerline either.
carbon fiber
12-24-2017, 07:36 AM
Its been said that you don't want poly bushings in the upper arms on a 4-link. For proper operation, the uppers need rubber to stretch and compress to reduce binding. Its usually recommended to go with Ford performance upper arms with a stiffer rubber bushing. The lower arms move in a different arc than the uppers, and in a different angle from the lowers. The lowers are not parallel to the car centerline either.
Correct, if you use poly on both sides of the uppers they'll bind. You can get these spherical bushings from J&M for the rear end housing that eliminate bind. There are also control arms with a heim joint on one end and poly bushing on the other that would work. 7815578156
Yes, this is a 4 link, looks like i need to stay with the rubber or go with the heim joint.
Thanks for the help guys, knew you would have the information i needed.
Merry Christmas
Walt
cgundermann
12-24-2017, 11:17 AM
here is the tool. http://m.uprproducts.com/mustang-8-inch-bushing-removal-tool.html
The UPR tool works really well at drawing out those rubber bushings at the axle housing. Since your going to all the work, I would install the spherical bushings that Carbon Fiber references in their place. I’ve also used Steeda’s aluminum upper control arms in my Mustangs, which uses their exclusive three piece polyurethane bushing that alleviates the binding felt in using solid poly bushings. Was very impressed with these in my 4 link Mustangs.
The design of the four link is inherently flawed and Ford compensated for the fact that the upper and lower control arms were different lengths by having much flexibility in looser durometer rubber bushings. Sanford is spot on above in identifying that issue and you need that looseness that rubber affords so there isn’t binding and fluid movement through the entire suspension path. That binding is unpredictable and will induce your back end to snap around. The Steeda three piece poly bushing I found to work well and a nice compromise.
Chris
Thanks, after thinking about it, since the diff. Is in the car i'm staying with the rubber thats there, my plan for next winter is to drop the diff. To change the gears to 3:55 , i will change the bushings then while its out of the car.
Thanks all for your help!
Walt
CraigS
12-25-2017, 09:32 AM
Walt, I know it's extra $ but you might want to consider saving to do a 3 link upgrade. Then there is no worry about which bushings to use and you can do burn outs as much as you want w/o wheel hop. I have done it twice and it is very worth while.
Walt, I know it's extra $ but you might want to consider saving to do a 3 link upgrade. Then there is no worry about which bushings to use and you can do burn outs as much as you want w/o wheel hop. I have done it twice and it is very worth while.
Or Gordon's 5 link it is designed to upgrade from a 4 link setup
TexasAviator
12-25-2017, 10:56 AM
Thanks, after thinking about it, since the diff. Is in the car i'm staying with the rubber thats there, my plan for next winter is to drop the diff. To change the gears to 3:55 , i will change the bushings then while its out of the car.
Thanks all for your help!
Walt
that sounds like a good plan. Those things are in there in a very tight interference. The 4 link will serve you well. I would have stayed with it but someone paid for my 3 link while I was deployed. I was so blessed with many parts to build my car. I am on a tight budget and would have ran the 4 link forever.