tko600 CLUTCH FORK & THROWOUT BEARING INSTALL

[broku518]

Hello there.

This is a continuation from earlier thread. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26733-join-347-dart-with-tko600-tranny-anyone-knows-how-to-dial-them
Bell housing is back in place, now is time to attach tkpo600.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4739/39182233691_3c75d2fc41_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22GpbZi)20171220_160059 (https://flic.kr/p/22GpbZi)

I am getting to the part how to attach the fork with bearing. I see a pivot bolt inside the bell housing. Just not really sure what should be measured and how much.
If someone could post a diagram/scheme/how to, would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Martin

[edwardb]

Ideally the pivot should have been installed/adjusted and your clutch arm with throwout bearing (TOB) installed before bolting on the bell housing. Maybe it can be done afterwards, but I've never tried doing it that way. The pivot should be adjusted so the clutch arm extends out of the opening roughly perpendicular to the driveline with the TOB just contacting the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. Maybe slightly to the rear. Make sure you have the TOB installed properly onto the clutch arm and the little clips on the end of the clutch arm properly under the ball on the pivot. Stock bell housings used a fixed pivot. But the QuickTime is adjustable. Once you find the right location, use some Loctite and make sure the locking nut is tightened firmly. Really don't want that coming loose. :p

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/th_T535.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/T535.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/th_T534.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/T534.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/th_mufp_0702_17_zfactory_five_roadster_engine_and_ tranmissionclutch_fork.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/mufp_0702_17_zfactory_five_roadster_engine_and_tra nmissionclutch_fork.jpg.html)

[mike223]

Maybe slightly to the rear.




Things that "ought to" be checked:

1 - Carefully measure (or disassemble as necessary to observe) and confirm that the input shaft properly fits in the pilot bearing as assembled (proper fit of input shaft to rear of crankshaft).

2- Carefully measure (or disassemble as necessary to observe) and confirm that the clutch is fully engaged on the splines of the input shaft when in contact with the face of the flywheel (look for input shaft too short / bellhousing too long / CLUTCH PLATE INSTALLED BACKWARDS / etc). Also make certain the clutch is not going to be captured against the flywheel by the input shaft (splines not cut long enough on input shaft / bellhousing too short / unusual clutch depth / etc).

2- You're probably going to need most of "full travel" on the clutch fork, so the pivot will probably need to be adjusted to put the fork (the end where the clutch cable or slave cylinder will attach) within ~3/8" of end of travel (rear) with the TOB just touching the pressure plate fingers. The geometry varies, but most will require nearly full travel of the slot in the side of the bellhousing.

[edwardb]

Things that "ought to" be checked:

1 - Carefully measure (or disassemble as necessary to observe) and confirm that the input shaft properly fits in the pilot bearing as assembled (proper fit of input shaft to rear of crankshaft).

2- Carefully measure (or disassemble as necessary to observe) and confirm that the clutch is fully engaged on the splines of the input shaft when in contact with the face of the flywheel (look for input shaft too short / bellhousing too long / CLUTCH PLATE INSTALLED BACKWARDS / etc). Also make certain the clutch is not going to be captured against the flywheel by the input shaft (splines not cut long enough on input shaft / bellhousing too short / unusual clutch depth / etc).

2- You're probably going to need most of "full travel" on the clutch fork, so the pivot will probably need to be adjusted to put the fork (the end where the clutch cable or slave cylinder will attach) within ~3/8" of end of travel (rear) with the TOB just touching the pressure plate fingers. The geometry varies, but most will require nearly full travel of the slot in the side of the bellhousing.

The parts used in the OP's build are pretty standard, so likely all will be OK. But agree all are good things to check. Can't be too careful getting all this just right. There are variables, but with the QuickTime bell housing the opening for the clutch arm is larger than a stock bell. I doubt the arm will get very close to the front of the opening. If it does, you likely have it set too far forward and then you're loosing mechanical advantage.

FWIW, this is a video I made a couple builds ago. The main purpose was to mock up the Forte hydraulic clutch setup outside the chassis before committing to the engine install. The parts here are a DART 347, Ford Racing billet flywheel, McLeod Super StreetPro clutch, Ford Racing clutch arm and TOB, QuickTime bell, TKO600 trans. All similar to the OP's build. It's a little dark, but the video shows the amount of clutch arm throw required. I was confirming it completely released the clutch by turning the TKO output. Later installation and two seasons of driving all worked great with the same setup. I didn't leave it quite as loose as this shows. I was just confirming the hydraulic slave was completely releasing the TOB.

https://youtu.be/MgQvEP-gfGQ

[broku518]

Thanks guys. I got it together and it looks and feels pretty good. The fork arm is pretty much perpendicular with enough forward travel and back release as well. I made sure I got the TOB installed correctly.

This is finger touch against the clutch fingers.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4638/39181011102_2f28a1cfcd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22GhVyb)20171221_085455 (https://flic.kr/p/22GhVyb)

I will get a small mirror to make sure the pivot bolt is in right place. Just to make me feel better :)