Sbhunter’s coyote build

[sbhunter]

It’s finally happening!! My brief history is as follows: I was researching kit cars in the early 90’s and became interested in Factory Five. In 1996, I was in Boston for a wedding with my wife and test drove an early roadster with Dave Smith when they were just starting out in Dartmouth if I remember right. How cool was that! I was hooked, went home found an 87 Mustang GT and was getting ready to order and start. Child number 2 delayed my plan. Children numbers 3 and 4 sidelined my plans. I am a small farmer in Indiana and 4 kids necessitated a second full time job to make ends meet. I was a volunteer firefighter and was able to hire on as a career firefighter in Lafayette, IN. Somehow 21 years flew by. This fall my third son started college and I started bugging my wife for the thousandth time about building a ffr roadster. She said go for it and here I am. Over the years I have kept my distance because I have a tendency to become obsessed with projects. I got on their website, read through the complete kit order form, had some questions about this and that, made an appointment to order in person to lock myself into a schedule. Then I discovered the forums. Wow what a lot of good info and a great community! On 11/9, I spent 3 hours with Dan Golub going through the options. Here is what I ended up with.

Mk4 complete kit
Powder coated frame
4x1x4 headers
Full IRS
Auto meter gauge set
Sway bars
12.88” Wilwoods on both ends in black
Wind wings
Dash support
Leather wheel
Coyote kit
Etc.

Coyote and tko500 kit is ordered. I will have details on this soon. Waiting for permission to say where I got it!

This is the plan.

Power steering, ask ffr about part #16473 guys, I hope it’s going to be great
Manual brakes
Hydraulic clutch
Heater and foot box vents
KIRKEY highback seats without the shoulder bolsters
Single custom roll bar that is full width
Boig or gas N pipes
Mid shifter
Drop trunk
Herb’s door panels
Front battery
Breeze radiator surround and mounts
Custom wheels in 17”
Russ Thompson turn signal stalk
Seat heaters
Trunk cubby and custom glove box around the dash supports

My plan is to powdercoat everything black including the windshield frame, all trim rings, pipes and wheels. Paint color will some variation of dark cherry red with shadow stripes. Projected completion date of the kit is 12/23 and I will pick it up in person in early January. I have a fair size farm shop that is well stocked with tools and a lift.

Questions for the readers:
Are the ball joints worth replacing right out of the gate?
I am considering a fuel cell but can’t justify ffr’s price for their competition version. Anyone found a better option?
What small pieces and parts do you all end up ordering and waiting for? I’d like to have as much as possible on hand when I start so I’m not waiting on UPS for much.

I’m headed to the shop to start building the body buck and a frame dolly. More soon.

[wareaglescott]

Sounds like a great plan. Enjoy the build. Look forward to following along.
I was not pleased with the FFR power steering kit for the coyote. Talked about it with pictures in my build thread. May be worth a look to you. Thread linked in my signature and index in post #1 will direct you to the posts on that subject.
The forum is a great resource. Lots of great experience here to help you out whenever you need it.

[edwardb]

Congrats on your order. Should be a great build. Couple of comments.

Why the TKO500 vs. 600? The TKO600 is by far the most common choice for these builds. Granted you don't need the extra strength of the TKO600. But for most the ratios of the 600 work out a little better. You didn't list which IRS ratio you selected. That's a big part of the discussion. If you do go with the 500, make sure to get the TCET5201 version. It has the proper 1/8 in. 26-spline input that matches with most Coyote compatible clutches.

Regarding the fuel cell, not too much I can add over what I said in the other thread you had on the subject. Fuel cells by definition are intended for competition use. FF's version is pricey and so is everyone else's. The trunk mod you mention won't be possible with the usual size fuel cell. Plus it will change your filler. In the trunk vs. the LeMans cap. Also will affect your fuel pump, gauge sender, and likely other things I don't know about.

Regarding the ball joint question, assume you're talking about the front uppers. For some time the kit has been supplied with Mevotech upper ball joints. Many, including me, have struggled to get them to thread into the UCA's. But your experience may vary. Many are able to get them to thread in after take some steel wool or a wire brush to them. Alternate ball joints (Moog, Howe, etc.) may perhaps be better, but probably not worth considering if you're able to get the kit ones to work.

Finally, for your last point regarding buying stuff ahead of time, I'd wait. There's plenty to do when your kit arrives (inventory, etc.) plus you won't know until it arrives what back order parts you have. Every delivery has some. What you're able to start right away kind of depends on what that list looks like. Good luck!

[sbhunter]

Wareaglescott, your build thread is actually the first one I read all the way through. It took me 3 days! Fantastic info and documentation. I will be referencing it during my build. Your concerns prompted me to discuss the rack with Dan. I left your name out;). He assured me that all is better now and they are offering it as a complete kit including the krc pump with reservoir and all fittings. We will see how it goes.

[wareaglescott]

Wareaglescott, your build thread is actually the first one I read all the way through. It took me 3 days! Fantastic info and documentation. I will be referencing it during my build. Your concerns prompted me to discuss the rack with Dan. I left your name out;). He assured me that all is better now and they are offering it as a complete kit including the krc pump with reservoir and all fittings. We will see how it goes.

Cool! I was not aware they had upgraded the power steering kit to include better components. That sounds like it should be a good option then.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Scott,
Great to talk with you last week! I was just thinking of you today and wondering how your trip went---sounds like you have it all pretty well sorted out!

Ball joints; Personally I've not had any problem installing the supplied pieces after wire wheeling the cosmoline like schmutz (that's the actual technical name for it ;)) from the threads.

Talk to you later,
Jeff

[rrrose]

Sounds like a great plan and I sure can relate to how having 4 kids puts plans on the back burner.

I am similar in liking to have things on hand that I will need. Some things you will need to have your kit for though. Example the radiator fan shroud. The kit could come with either of the two versions of the radiator. It will most likely be the 'modern' one that FFR has their own source for but could be the other.

If you are going to follow the lead of those who have done this journey before and some like Paul 3 times here is the list of stuff I tried to get ahead of time and some will be good Christmas wish list items.
Stainless Rivnuts and an assortment of button head screws and the tool of your choosing to install the rivnuts. An organizer for these parts.
From Papa I stole the idea and got an organizer for the rivets - the dewalt 10 compartment deep pro small parts organizer has been great. I also got organizers for the clecos and rivnuts and screws... these make great gift ideas to give out.

POR 15 and the cleaner and prep solution. Might as well get a spare quart can as I have tried twice now and by the time I am done getting the lid off the original POR can it is in such bad shape that I just used a new can.
1/8 and 3/16 clecos and the tool if you don't already have them
I found and got a pack of stubby size 30 drill bits the optimal size of 1/8" rivets. 12 pack was $12 I expect I might use 2 for the whole build.
Nut and bolt thread checker and size gauge. I have the plastic one and this one and use them both https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FJW0GK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lots of the parts are laser cut and have sharp edges. I got a pair of rubberized cut resistant gloves from my local big box for handling these parts until I could knock off those sharp edges or just to work with them if I cant be bothered to knock off the edges. The steel parts have the worst little blood releasers on them :)
A couple rolls of the blue tape to cover areas and help protect from tool bangs and drops on the powder coat.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. As Paul suggested it is good to wait until you have the kit for options parts. Sounds like you have a well equipped shop so you should be good there.

My only other suggestion is I have a spreadsheet I called tips and tricks. As I read through build threads and other discussions I grab the ideas and put them in my spreadsheet. I really need to do the next step now and that is take those jewels and put the notes right in the manual where they belong.

Now that your order is in, this time is one of the hardest parts. The wait until completion date.
Ron

[Jazzman]

Congratulations, and welcome to the family!! Looks like you already have the heavy hitters on your side: EdwardB, Jeff Kleiner, WarEagleScott. There are a lot of really great people on this forum who will help you as you progress. Sounds like you have a really solid build plan. My build has similar components, and I can tell you that you will love it!! Enjoy the process. Let us know if we can be of assistance.

[sbhunter]

I hate to ask because I feel lazy doing it. Can someone send me link on how to post pics, pdf’s, etc on this thread please. I use an iPad for most reading and posting if that makes a difference.

[sbhunter]

7677776778
Test on pictures. Wheels I am planning on using. Haven’t decided yet whether to powdercoat all black or have the polished part painted body color. I found this seat on Kirkey’s website. It is the same lower dimensions as the low back racing seat and is available in 17” width.

[sbhunter]

I guess that worked but they are small images. Small victories! I like the high back seats but don’t care for the shoulder bolsters. I believe these will work. If anyone has info otherwise, please let me know.

[sbhunter]

76781
This is a new part number according to Dan. The first number listed is the whole kit. It is supposed to be everything needed to complete a power steering install with their rack and a coyote motor.

[Yama-Bro]

7677776778
Test on pictures. Wheels I am planning on using. Haven’t decided yet whether to powdercoat all black or have the polished part painted body color. I found this seat on Kirkey’s website. It is the same lower dimensions as the low back racing seat and is available in 17” width.

Nice looking rims. I think this style, no matter what color, always looks great on roadsters

[Yama-Bro]

I hate to ask because I feel lazy doing it. Can someone send me link on how to post pics, pdf’s, etc on this thread please. I use an iPad for most reading and posting if that makes a difference.

I post my pictures to Flickr, then share them on here. I tried using the photo album feature on this site and on Flickr. I decided to go with Flickr because it seems faster and I think it does a good job keeping details in the photos when it compresses them.

[Jdav]

76781
This is a new part number according to Dan. The first number listed is the whole kit. It is supposed to be everything needed to complete a power steering install with their rack and a coyote motor.

That certainly looks like an upgrade compared to the complete power steering kit that they have offered for the past year.

[wareaglescott]

7677776778
Test on pictures. Wheels I am planning on using. Haven’t decided yet whether to powdercoat all black or have the polished part painted body color. I found this seat on Kirkey’s website. It is the same lower dimensions as the low back racing seat and is available in 17” width.


Those seats will work great because you won't have to bend the upper bolsters around the body. I discovered those to late in the game to make the switch. When I was looking Summit had a good price. I know the 17" width will fit in MK4. Will be tight at the base but it will work.

Summit also sells a lumbar support for those seats that I found greatly increased the comfort and some nice mounting brackets as well that allow you to mount with some recline. Both of those are made by Kirkey as well.

[sbhunter]

This is the most interesting item from my visit. Dave Smith has a new company named “Factory Five AT”. That company is selling a complete coyote/TKO600 setup with all pieces and parts to complete the install. It includes the Moroso oil pan, McLeod clutch setup, fuel pump, KN air cleaner, etc. They even have have there own cnc cut and bent engine cradle and plates for the engine hoist. The price was very competitive. I am still working on some of the details like which version of tko600. This is the spec sheet they sent me.
76787
It can ship with the kit.

[robertjamesellis]

Good luck on the build. I like all the added extras you are putting on. Like you, I'm trying to get all my pieces and parts ordered up in advance. It just feels better to me that way. My limited experience though has put some caution in there as well. As I'm going through everything and keep reading these forums ( I curse all you guys with all your great ideas! My checking account can't keep up!!) I keep finding other little things I want to do. In the end, I truly want something that's mine and a car I can pass along to my son so I'm always looking at upgrades wherever I can find them. I'm going to keep dropping in and checking on your progress!

[Mark Eaton]

SBHunter,

Looks like you're off to a good start with lots of good advice! I echo everything RRRose says about tools. I also seem to use my angle grinder A LOT, drill press, battery powered impact wrench and drill. Also MIG welder, but I've been modifying the trunk... I have a 10000lb ATLAS lift which is saving my back, I'm sure as a farmer you have room for something like that. Mine cost $1800, well worth it given I think this build will take me close to 2years to complete.

Your rims look great. I wish I had thought about something like that...

Finally, I am using a MAC book to post and I upload my photos into the "gallery" from a dropbox account. I have to rotate them 4 times before I upload them to get them to orient properly.

cheers,

Mark

[Boydster]

I like your wheels....

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70952&d=1500816207

I went with the anthracite since the car will be based in grey.

When I ordered my Kirkeys, Summit accidently sent me a pair of the drag seats, like you have pictured. I tried them on without any covers, but found I like having the shoulder supports.

[sbhunter]

Boydster, those wheels look great on your car and will be perfect with a grey based paint scheme. Are those 17”? That is what I’m planning on. I like the tire aspect to rim ratio of yours.

[Boydster]

Boydster, those wheels look great on your car and will be perfect with a grey based paint scheme. Are those 17”? That is what I’m planning on. I like the tire aspect to rim ratio of yours.

Yes, they are the 17x9 front and 17x10.5 rear. Bought them from Summit.

Tires are NT05's, 255/40-17 and 315/35-17.

I like how they are not Oring tires, but not billboards, either. Some new tech mixed with some old school.

Keep up the good work.

[sbhunter]

Here is my next question for the experts. I am going to order my wheels today so I can get them powdercoated and have them for fitment. I don’t get the kit till January and it seems to take a year to build these cars in general. Does anyone worry about age of the tires. I am not planning on ordering the tires till I’m closer to go cart stage.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Scott,
It's tempting to get tires early since the rolling chassis looks so cool sitting on it's rubber but I tend to side with the school of thought that says wait until closer to the time you actually need them; (A) because of age even though it isn't a tremendous factor if they aren't exposed to temperature extremes and UV light and (B) because new and potentially better products are coming to market all the time (I'd wager that there were more than a few cars under construction that were sitting on Nitto 555s which had never rolled more than a few feet when the next generation 555-G2 was introduced).

Cheers,
Jeff

[sbhunter]

I ordered one of Kirkey’s 41700 seats from summit with the black vinyl cover to see how I would like it. It is a 17” wide seat similar to ffr highback but without the shoulder bolsters. It showed up last night and I snapped the cover in and spent an hour sitting in it on the living room floor. I then asked my loving wife of 23 years to try it as well before I ordered the match for her. She thought I was loosing it at that point but complied and agreed that it was very comfortable. I considered the tweed cover for appearance and comfort in heat but went with vinyl for when not if it gets rained on. I have been studying powder coating various panels from other build threads. I like the way the black looks in the engine compartment but I am concerned with heat transfer into the passenger compartment and being able to see around the engine when assembled. Can someone share their opinions on that. I currently think I will just clean the engine side and leave it or coat it with a light colored heat reflective something? I have decided not to coat any other panels because I will be covering them with insulation and carpet on top and bedliner on the bottom of the entire car including body. I read Wallace18’s build threads yesterday. I really like the extra panels in the wheel wells for rock protection to the body and the finished look. Does anyone make these for sale? I also just finished Jazzman’s thread. Absolutely stunning car and fantastic detail in the thread. I really like the brake lights in the roll bars. I am planning on a single full width bar and am going to copy that one. I have been saving EdwardB’s thread for awhile. I am starting on it today as the gold standard for detail based on others comments and will be making notes in my build manual as I read. One more question for the experts. I have been looking at the various versions on parking brake handles. I am not going to use the ffr setup. Has anyone just used a line lock setup for their parking brake? I am aware that it would depend on fluid pressure to maintain the brake. I’m not sure what the laws are on this. As always, all opinions are welcome and desired.

[edwardb]

Heat transfer and insulation gets a lot of bandwidth on the forums. Everyone has their favorite “I rode in a Cobra and burned my feet…” story. Here’s my take FWIW. You don’t mention what you’re planning to do on the inside of the cockpit. My experience is that adequate insulation on the inside (Dynamat, Lizard Skin, whatever, there are a bunch of options) plus carpet will make heat transfer a non-issue. I’ve done panels in silver, black, and white (all powder coat) and haven’t noticed any difference. Of much greater importance is to seal off all air penetration. That’s where you can really heat up the footboxes and/or cockpit. Some like the looks of heat shields. But I have zero regret not having them on any of my builds. We’ve done multiple higher mileage cruises, and get done in by heat from the sun. Not the interior of the car. The other comment I’ll make about your build is since you’ve already selected the Coyote, you’ll find it does a really excellent job of controlling underhood temp. Whether it’s because it’s all aluminum, how it’s cooled, or how the combustion is so well controlled (probably some of each) I’ve been amazed how controlled the temps are. My #8674 build with the Coyote, insulation and carpet in the cockpit, and tightly sealed engine compartment, can be driven for hours on a hot day with no heat transfer issues.

I like powder coating a lot, and have done 100% powder coating on all panels on each of my builds. That’s absolutely a personal choice and lots of guys choose other methods or don’t do anything. The cost of powder coating seems to vary a bit from region to region. But for where I live, I can get everything done for in the $700-800-900 range. That’s a relatively small amount of the entire build budget, saves a ton of my time compared to something I might do myself, and the final results look great and are along lasting. I’ve used two different companies, and in both cases the price was the same whether I did both sides or only selective sides. Whatever material cost savings there might be are apparently washed out by the increased labor/handling. As far as the underside, I personally want the finished look of the powder coated panels. In multiple seasons, thousands of miles, and three builds (mostly on not to great Michigan roads) I’ve yet to have as much as a scratch on the underside from road debris or whatever. Undercoat the whole bottom if you want. But I’m not sure what it does for you. Assuming you’re not planning any off-roading. :p Now the wheel wells and splash guards are a whole different story. You want the underside of the body in the wheel wells and the tire side of the splash guards heavily coated. I use truck bedliner, like many. The tires kick up just about everything they run over. So obviously important to have those areas protected.

For the wheel well liners, lots of guys use these: http://acroadsterinteriors.com/Fenderliners.html. I’ve seen them installed in person, and they’re nice. Give good protection plus gives a clean look. But personally I find them a bit expensive for what they are. Plus I’ve found that while the wheel wells don’t look too great while you’re building, once those big meats are installed and it’s sitting on the ground, you really can’t see much else. Especially if you coat the splash guards and body as I mentioned already. The good thing is these can easily be added after your build is done. A conservative approach would be to complete the build and then see if you really think you need them.

Why aren’t you planning to use the FFR e-brake setup? For the Wilwoods you list in your build plan, they have the separate e-brake puck and take very little handle movement to lock. The Wilwood separate e-brake is only cable operated. Hydraulic wouldn’t work for it, e.g. the line lock you mention. You’re paying big bucks for that setup. Not sure why you’d not want to use it. I find the setup works very well. Many comment they can’t reach the e-brake handle in the stock position. I’m very average in size, and I can reach it OK.

[sbhunter]

I will be installing some type of mat under the carpet and throughout the interior. Have not selected exactly what yet. The wheel well liners are just what I as searching for. Thank you edwardb once again. I do not like the look of the ebrake handles that I’ve seen or most of the locations. Yes, I would be wasting the ebrake part of the wilwood if I used a line lock. I will have to make that decision after I start looking at it. Possibly a foot applied (I know, box is tight already), or insetting the handle into the tunnel somehow.

[edwardb]

I do not like the look of the ebrake handles that I’ve seen or most of the locations. Yes, I would be wasting the ebrake part of the wilwood if I used a line lock. I will have to make that decision after I start looking at it. Possibly a foot applied (I know, box is tight already), or insetting the handle into the tunnel somehow.

Big trade-offs there IMO. I don't have particularly big feet, but no way I would give away precious space in the DS footbox. Let alone what might be required to get the cables routed out of there. Maybe something like this would give you the hidden actuation you're looking for and still use the excellent Wilwood setup. https://www.estopp.com/how-to. I personally don't have experience with it. But several on the forums have and apparently it works quite well.

[sbhunter]

Okay, the waiting game is officially getting to me. My projected completion date is 12/23 and I haven’t heard from FFR. Is that normal? I think I will call Monday just to check in. I have filled my time ordering needed parts. I think I ordered one of everything from Breeze! I ordered a full set of LED lights from Watson’s. I finished the body buck and frame dolly. I have changed course on picking up the kit and am going to have Stewart deliver it. It came to my attention that if I pick it up, I would have to pay sales tax on the parts. The tax and the shipping cost are basically the same number and Stewart says they can get it to me by the 7th of January if the completion date holds true. I found a powdercoater that is only 20 minutes from my house. He ended up being hunting buddies with my brother in laws dad. Small world out here in the sticks. He does excellent work and has a color pallet of 70 colors!!

[sbhunter]

I hesitate posting this but I thought this crowd would appreciate it. The fire department that I am on is replacing the truck that I am an officer on. I was asked to be on the build committee. I just got back from a 3 day trip to Pierce manufacturing in Appleton, WI. Anyone that thinks spec’ing out one of these cars is a lot of choices has nothing on that trip. We are getting a custom chassis heavy rescue and the process is daunting and eye opening. We start out by deciding the length of the cab and interior height and length of the box and go from there. It takes 3 full days to go through the options. When we ask for something specific, an engineer takes the info, does calculations and drawings, then comes back and shows us how and if it will work. We ended up with a 5 man cab and a 21’ box that will have 9 roll up doors with slide out trays to hold our specific tools and equipment. It takes 10 months to build mostly by hand and has a projected cost of $680,000!! I did learn how to apply gold leaf while I was there. Maybe I could incorporate that on the roadster somehow, hmmm.

[edwardb]

Okay, the waiting game is officially getting to me. My projected completion date is 12/23 and I haven’t heard from FFR. Is that normal? I think I will call Monday just to check in. I have filled my time ordering needed parts. I think I ordered one of everything from Breeze! I ordered a full set of LED lights from Watson’s. I finished the body buck and frame dolly. I have changed course on picking up the kit and am going to have Stewart deliver it. It came to my attention that if I pick it up, I would have to pay sales tax on the parts. The tax and the shipping cost are basically the same number and Stewart says they can get it to me by the 7th of January if the completion date holds true. I found a powdercoater that is only 20 minutes from my house. He ended up being hunting buddies with my brother in laws dad. Small world out here in the sticks. He does excellent work and has a color pallet of 70 colors!!

You should have heard from Factory Five a couple of weeks before your completion date to confirm your final configuration and arrange for final payment. Are you saying that didn't happen?

Yes they collect Massachusetts sales tax now for factory pickups. Most states have reciprocal agreements and you would get credit for the sales tax paid when you apply for your state's title. No love if it's less than MA's 6.25% though. :o

[sbhunter]

I confirmed my final order and payment has been sent. Stewart Transport on schedule to deliver my kit on 1/7. I made my first trip to powdercoat yesterday. I took the wheels, seats, and some various brackets. All will be gloss black.78017780167801878019i am doing the seat because the back and side will be visible.

[sbhunter]

Obviously I need to spend the time to figure out how to post pics. The seat pic and the frame dolly pic turned when I uploaded them which distorted the picture. I prepared the seat frame for powdercoat by drilling out the rivets that held the snaps and removing all the stickers. I have started on installing the seat heater pads into the vinyl covers and have a set of lumbar supports that I’m still undecided on. I got them from summit and they are too thick. I will shave one slowly until it feels right then copy it for the passenger side.

[sbhunter]

I received my kit Friday morning from Stewart Transport. It was a balmy 6 degrees below zero during unload. I spent the rest of Friday and all Saturday unpacking and checking in inventory. Unfortunately, the back order list is extensive. I will attempt to post pics soon. I have switched to posting with a MacBook. I have the pics transferred to it but need a program to resize and edit them before they can be posted. I have a forklift and Factory Five packaged the boxes on pallets so unloading the boxes did not take very long. The electric hydraulic crane on the semi would barely work due to the temp. It took 20 minutes to lower the car from the rack to my dolly. The driver (Joe) was not impressed with the temperature!!

[Yama-Bro]

Man, that's some cold weather to unload in. I'm sure the excitement level was still high!

I think I mentioned in an earlier post that I use Flickr for photo posting. The thing I like about it most is that you upload your pics to Flickr, and then when you go to share them it gives you options of the size of the picture you want to share, it automatically resizes the picture for you. No outside program needed.

[wareaglescott]

I received my kit Friday morning from Stewart Transport. It was a balmy 6 degrees below zero during unload. I spent the rest of Friday and all Saturday unpacking and checking in inventory. Unfortunately, the back order list is extensive. I will attempt to post pics soon. I have switched to posting with a MacBook. I have the pics transferred to it but need a program to resize and edit them before they can be posted. I have a forklift and Factory Five packaged the boxes on pallets so unloading the boxes did not take very long. The electric hydraulic crane on the semi would barely work due to the temp. It took 20 minutes to lower the car from the rack to my dolly. The driver (Joe) was not impressed with the temperature!!

Congrats on the delivery.
I use a mac for my posting also. To change the size I found it easiest to just email myself the ones I wanted from my iPhone. When you send a photo from your phone it allows you to select the size before sending. I would just select small or medium and boom it would be the proper size for upload. I am sure there is a better method but that one worked for me. Look forward to seeing some build pics soon!

[Jazzman]

I received my kit Friday morning from Stewart Transport. It was a balmy 6 degrees below zero during unload. I spent the rest of Friday and all Saturday unpacking and checking in inventory. Unfortunately, the back order list is extensive. I will attempt to post pics soon. I have switched to posting with a MacBook. I have the pics transferred to it but need a program to resize and edit them before they can be posted. I have a forklift and Factory Five packaged the boxes on pallets so unloading the boxes did not take very long. The electric hydraulic crane on the semi would barely work due to the temp. It took 20 minutes to lower the car from the rack to my dolly. The driver (Joe) was not impressed with the temperature!!

Congrats on the delivery!! I can't believe that temperature. You don't want to know how nice it was here!! :cool: You are really going to enjoy the process. Just my opinion, but I have been very pleased with uploading my photos directly into the photo system on this forum. I have seen quite a lot of older posts where the outside photo storage program (think PhotoBucket or Flickr) has problems or the subscription is not maintained. When that happens, the photos don't show up in your threads. Upload to this forum, it's free, and you know it will work. Every time, all the time. IF you need help getting started with uploading photos, please do not hesitate to ask.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Glad to hear it has arrived Scott! Sounds alot like my delivery 11 years ago on the Monday after the Colts won the Superbowl...coldest day of the year at -5. Stewart driver Dennis and his wife Jo called me Sunday evening and asked if I'd mind if they pushed my delivery to Monday so that they could get a room and watch the game. No problem sez me. Didn't turn out so good for them though when their truck gelled up in the sub zero cold overnight and it took them 6 hours to get it going Monday. Like your driver they weren't impressed with the temperature!

Jeff

[robertjamesellis]

Congrats on receipt of the kit. Good luck! I find myself complaining here when my garage gets down into the 50's. I'm glad I'm out of the midwest and away from those very cold temps!!! They take the fun out of everything!

[sbhunter]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79132&d=1515725435
-6 degrees
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79118&d=1515725219
It is in the shop!!

[sbhunter]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79133&d=1515726140
New engine is mounted on the stand. This is the stand that comes from Factory Five. The engine lift points are also from Factory Five.

[RJD]

Woo-hoo!!! Congratulations and enjoy the build.

[sbhunter]

Had a few hours to work on it yesterday. I got the F panels mounted and as much of the front suspension done as I could. I am going with a scotchbrite and clear coat finish for the engine bay. I am missing parts to put the coil overs together and most of the steering components. I painted and mounted the rear dif. I ran into an issue with the alternator. The bottom bolt sleeves through the block and needs a bushing in the block to fit correctly. I could not find any mention of one in any of the directions. I will have to call Factory Five or Ford racing Monday or Tuesday. I got the McLeod clutch bottled up after switching out the alignment pins. I sorted out all the bare metal parts and took them to my powder coater.

[sbhunter]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79303&d=1515954924
This is the frame stripped of panels and ready to start in.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79299&d=1515954854
These were my helpers last night. My oldest son and 2 of his friends from college.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79298&d=1515954839
I used the Ford part for the vent. I cut down the tubing and riveted it to the upper trunk panel.

[sbhunter]

I called Ford Racing and confirmed that the lower alternator bolt is a loose fit in the block. I don’t like it but bolted it up anyway. I have a question on the flywheel bolts. I pulled the flywheel on the coyote to change the clutch alignment pins. The torque spec that I found for these bolts is 177 ft lbs + 60 degrees. These are not large bolts. I ran them up to 150 lbs and chickened out. Now I am second guessing myself and considering taking the clutch back off and adding lock tight. I need opinions.

[q4stix]

I'm pretty sure the stock flywheel bolts are torque to yield, so if you removed them they should be replaced.

[edwardb]

I called Ford Racing and confirmed that the lower alternator bolt is a loose fit in the block. I don’t like it but bolted it up anyway. I have a question on the flywheel bolts. I pulled the flywheel on the coyote to change the clutch alignment pins. The torque spec that I found for these bolts is 177 ft lbs + 60 degrees. These are not large bolts. I ran them up to 150 lbs and chickened out. Now I am second guessing myself and considering taking the clutch back off and adding lock tight. I need opinions.

Whoa. Lucky you didn't break something. That spec is 177 inch pounds + 60 degrees. Or 20 foot points + 60 degrees. I'd probably replace those. Probably stretched pretty good. BR3Z-6379-A.

Listed on this document: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6007-A50NA.pdf

[sbhunter]

Holy Cow!! I can’t believe I misread that. Thanks Paul. I will order new bolts and redo it. Hopefully they come out. Thankfully they didn’t snap off. I hate using easy outs.

[sbhunter]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79736&d=1516737469
Does anyone see anything wrong with my front suspension so far? The UCA was assembled upside down from FFR. I don’t have any of the steering assembly yet from FFR or all the parts to put the coils on the shock so this is as far as it goes for now.

[sbhunter]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79737&d=1516737490
I installed a Forte midshift kit in the TKO and got the back mount trimmed off.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79738&d=1516737500
I am left with this linkage loose in the rear of the case because I didn't split the trans to take it out. It doesn't interfer with anything but I am worried about it rattling back and forth. There is a detent that keeps it from going for and aft. I am considering wrapping it with something to hold it in place. Has anyone else delt with this?

[sbhunter]

I received new bolts for the flywheel and got them changed out. Thankfully they came out without breaking. I ordered a dial gauge to set the bellhousing. I am trying to get the engine/trans put together so I can set them in to mock up some changes I want to try. I am missing the trans mount a frame among many other things so it will have to wait for that too.

[edwardb]

I ordered a dial gauge to set the bellhousing...

Measure away. But there's no way on your build to adjust it if it's out of spec. On the Coyote, the index dowels are hollow with the mounting bolts going through them. So there's no way to use offset dowels to move things like on a SBF and most other engines. Measure it for reference if you want but if it's off I'm not sure what you would do. Try a different bell housing? I'll bet it's OK though. I didn't measure mine. Not saying that was the right thing to do. :p

BTW, best I can tell your front suspension looks correct.

[sbhunter]

Big day yesterday for me. FedEx dropped off the Wilwood brakes, steering rack, trans A frame, the missing shock pieces, and many other items that I will need soon. I got the front brakes assembled and safety wired and got the rack installed with the Breeze mounts.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79895&d=1517084983

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79896&d=1517085051

I dial gauged the bell housing. I wish I hadn't. It is out of center by .0065 which is out of tolerance. As edwardb correctly stated, there is no apparent way to correct this because I cannot find offset bushings for a Coyote block.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79893&d=1517084832

I went ahead and mounted the clutch, bell housing, and transmission. I locked the rear shifter shaft in place by driving a piece of wood dowel into it and then running a screw into it through the top plate with gasket compound.

[boat737]

Big day yesterday for me. FedEx dropped off the Wilwood brakes, steering rack, trans A frame, the missing shock pieces, and many other items that I will need soon. I got the front brakes assembled and safety wired and got the rack installed with the Breeze mounts.http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79895&d=1517084983



It's hard to tell from this photo, but is there a centering ring on the hub for your brake rotor? Just checking.

[sbhunter]

Yes, the centering ring is installed. The disk is tipped back in the photo which is hard to tell because the upper a arm is run all the way in at this point. I didn't realize until I went to install the rotor that I had yet to order any lug nuts. I found 4 laying around the shop just to hold the rotor on to square and align the caliper.

[boat737]

Yes, the centering ring is installed. The disk is tipped back in the photo which is hard to tell because the upper a arm is run all the way in at this point. I didn't realize until I went to install the rotor that I had yet to order any lug nuts. I found 4 laying around the shop just to hold the rotor on to square and align the caliper.

Very good. One other thing that I missed on mine, is that the 6 piston Wilwood caliper is directional. There is one set of pistons that are slightly bigger diameter, and if I remember right, they will be on the trailing end of the caliper. (as the rotor turns, it's the last set of pistons.) I had to swap the calipers side to side after they were already bled. What a pain.

[sbhunter]

I got a few things done yesterday. I mounted the front sway bar. No issues. I cut out the trunk drop mod and modified the rear framework to allow full access and support it from the bottom. I let my son rivet the aluminum drop piece on because he wanted to run the pneumatic rivet gun. He did a great job until I noticed that he had put it on backwards!! It was easier to cut a new access to the tank sender hole than drill out the rivets, clean off the silicone, and redo it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80341&d=1517701894

I cleaned, prepped, primed and painted most of the loose brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80340&d=1517701883

I have a question on the rear cockpit panel. I started at the front of the car and aligned and drilled most of the panels. The rear panel for the cockpit is not lining up. If I align the seat belt cutouts with the frame member the right corner of the panel and the right base are 1/2" high. If I push the panel down until the corner and bottom are in the right place then the seat belt cutouts on the right side are half covered by the frame member. Which is better? The seatbelt cutouts are the only thing that will be visible when done but I don't want the top edge to affect the body alignment. Also, I laid my blank dash on the arced frame member. If I line up the outer edges with the top edge of the tube, the middle is just on the tube by 1/4". I haven't read the directions yet for this piece but it doesn't seem right.

[edwardb]

I have a question on the rear cockpit panel. I started at the front of the car and aligned and drilled most of the panels. The rear panel for the cockpit is not lining up. If I align the seat belt cutouts with the frame member the right corner of the panel and the right base are 1/2" high. If I push the panel down until the corner and bottom are in the right place then the seat belt cutouts on the right side are half covered by the frame member. Which is better? The seatbelt cutouts are the only thing that will be visible when done but I don't want the top edge to affect the body alignment. Also, I laid my blank dash on the arced frame member. If I line up the outer edges with the top edge of the tube, the middle is just on the tube by 1/4". I haven't read the directions yet for this piece but it doesn't seem right.

Properly positioned, the frame member will be above the seat belt openings in the rear cockpit wall. Usually 1/4-inch or so. This is by design so the belts wrap over the frame member vs. the edge of the aluminum panel. It should be the same on both sides though. I've never had any trouble getting it that way. For the dash, the hoop isn't typically either symmetrical or the same curve as the dash. Typically the dash is going to be a little higher than the tube on the ends, and a bit lower than the tube in the middle. The body roll covers everything.

[sbhunter]

I assembled the pedal box yesterday. I used the FFR instructions and edwardb's advice combined to set up the throttle pedal. I trimmed the module down and moved it up as far as I could. Then I cut the plastic pedal off and grafted the FFR pedal on. I flipped the spring over and reshaped it so that it was holding the pedal up instead of pushing it down. I then set the brake and clutch to be 2" in front of it. I have a Focus ST that is a blast to drive and I am using measurements from its pedals as my model. I bolted the Wilwood plates on to the left to gain foot room for the throttle pedal. I had assembled the clutch stop onto the top of the box as per the instructions but it is not within 4" of the clutch when down. It must be for a different pedal or I missed something. My clutch pedal at full stroke just hits the 3/4" bar that causes interference. I am going to leave it alone until I have everything plumbed and can check operation. I will make some kind of stop and plate for the other switch at that time.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80472&d=1517864679

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80471&d=1517864660

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80475&d=1517864750

This is where it sits at this time. All the panels are fitted and drilled. Next for me is to remove them, clean them up, coat them with Sharkhide, and rivet some on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80474&d=1517864701

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80473&d=1517864692

[sbhunter]

I apologize for the pics. I continue to struggle posting pics. I trimmed these and rotated them before saving them. They show correctly in my album. I don’t understand why they turn when they load into the post. They show up on google chrome on a windows system correctly. When I open this post on an ipad (my normal interface for reading), they are turned.

[Straversi]

I apologize for the pics. I continue to struggle posting pics. I trimmed these and rotated them before saving them. They show correctly in my album. I don’t understand why they turn when they load into the post. They show up on google chrome on a windows system correctly. When I open this post on an ipad (my normal interface for reading), they are turned.

All your photos are straight when I view on my lap top. Some are turned when I view on my phone. I've had this happen on some of mine and have never figured it out. Don't worry, we can usually figure out which end is up. Looking good, keep up the good work.
-Steve

[sbhunter]

Some might find this useful. I am using the ffr supplied power steering rack with the Breeze bushings and the supplied shaft. I had to put the foot box bearing on the inside of the foot box which isn’t unusual from what I’ve read. I had to add 1/4” of washers under the bearing at the wheel to get the shaft to clear the frame which is also fairly normal. Here is where I found an issue. When I tried to tighten the Allen lock screw at the rack it pushed the collar up off the lower set of splines. On inspection, the hole for the Allen screw is too low and hits the splines. If I had left it, the bottom of the collar was not engaged with the lower splines. I carefully ground the splines off where the Allen screw needed to set and put it back together. This allowed the collar on the shaft to fully seat on the splines from the rack and created a flat spot for the Allen screw to bite into. Sorry, no pic taken.

[sbhunter]

I just read Kleiner’s post in Dagwood’s thread. I didn’t read anywhere about adjusting rebound in the shocks before assembly. That is depressing. Back apart it comes. Where are the instructions for the adjustment? I see them on Koni’s Website but I don’t recall seeing any mention of this in the manual or the instructions with the shocks.

[Mark Eaton]

I read Kleiner's post in Dagwood’s thread also and just stared at it blankly. I'll bet I have redone something on my front suspension at least six times since I started my build. On Saturday I just replaced the pivot joints on both UCA after I ruptured the bushings by over tightening them.

[sbhunter]

I need some input. My front sway bar has 4 holes instead of 2 in most pics. The third hole is closest to lining up but I see most in the second hole from the front. My sway bar is against the LCA hard before full droop no matter where I attach it. Also I’m wondering if anyone cuts the bushing down that sleeves onto the bolt attaching the sway bar to the heim linkage. Mine is cocked out hard at close to full droop and never passes straight down as I pull the suspension through its motion. I cut the heim joint down to the size that ffr wanted. Now I’m wondering if it needs to be longer to clearance the bar from the lca.

[sbhunter]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80612&d=1518129501
I have the suspension above full droop but below ride height in this picture. You can see on the left side of the pic where the LCA contacts the sway bar. The bar is centered. It is hitting on both sides the same. Also the link is pointed out as it goes down. This seems like a weak attachment and would be improved by shortening the bushing. However, shortening the bushing makes it that much harder to get a hole in the bar to line up with the heim joint. Thank you edwardb for the response.

[edwardb]

I have the suspension above full droop but below ride height in this picture. You can see on the left side of the pic where the LCA contacts the sway bar. The bar is centered. It is hitting on both sides the same. Also the link is pointed out as it goes down. This seems like a weak attachment and would be improved by shortening the bushing. However, shortening the bushing makes it that much harder to get a hole in the bar to line up with the heim joint. Thank you edwardb for the response.

Apologize for the slightly dark pic. This is #8674 from a couple minutes ago. Just stuck my phone under the car. It's at ride height of course. This is how mine worked out. You could put yours up at ride height and see if it looks similar. I know it's disconcerting for it to be hitting where you're at right now. But in the real world not sure you'll ever be at full droop. Another option would be turn out the rod ends some and see if that helps.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_0259%201_zps8yitn7in.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_0259%201_zps8yitn7in.jpg.html)

[sbhunter]

Thank you edwardb. As usual, you are prompt, detailed, and knowledgeable. I ended up cutting 1/2” off the bushings and using the third hole from the front. I turned the heim joints 1 turn further apart. Once I put the shocks back on, they are not hitting the sway bars. I had taken the shocks back off to check the rebound setting. They were all preset on soft. Now I know for sure. This allowed it to droop more than it ever could with the shocks on. I will post a new picture once I get up to my computer.

[sbhunter]

Yesterday's progress pics
I got the fuel pump assembled and installed
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80800&d=1518438210
The radiator is assembled and installed with Breeze mounts top and bottom.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80799&d=1518438204
I cut the tab and mount off the frame on the passenger side for the fuel tank mounts. Made a new mount and welded it on. I then made a cover plate for the hole in the panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80798&d=1518438198
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80796&d=1518438184
I finished drilling all the trunk panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80797&d=1518438191

[sbhunter]

I cut off the factory parking brake bracket and made a cover panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80793&d=1518438154
I am pretty sure that the Lokar brake will go here. It will not bolt on like it is setting. It will be mounted from underneath the 3/4" tubes. I need to do some more research to make sure before I make the bracketry.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80795&d=1518438175
Question on the computer mount. From what I can find this is where it goes. the bottom rear hole is lined up with the front of the passenger foot box. The plug from the motor has a molded 90 degree bend the wrong way. I will have to trim it so it can be straightened.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80794&d=1518438167
At this point I am starting to search for things to do. I am missing the entire rear suspension, fuel level sensor and many other items that are making it difficult to proceed. I did order a corvette fuel filter/regulator that I read about in someone's post. The regulator is preset at 58 psi and goes back at the tank. This will make the return line short and reduce the clutter on the firewall.

[sbhunter]

I ordered the Eastwood dual voltage powdercoat gun and found an old electric oven. I found that I really enjoy powder coating and am considering building a bigger oven using the parts from this one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81239&d=1519065922

This is my first batch. It is almost all of the small bracketry. I had painted them and didn't care for how they turned out so I ground them clean and started over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81238&d=1519065914

[sbhunter]

I received my CNC triple and built a bracket for it. The bracket needs to be finish cleaned and powdercoated. I used an engraver to mark the resevoirs by where they feed to as it will be hard to tell after the body goes on. The green bolts are temporary.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81240&d=1519065930

I installed the heater in the firewall and decided that it needed a brace.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81229&d=1519065817

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81228&d=1519065808

I was cleaning up the other night and found this near the front of my car. It appears to be a set screw with an allen drive. It is stainless steel. I cannot find a home for it anywhere on the car. Does anyone recognize it. My project is not the only thing going on in my shop so it could be from something else. Or it could be a prank from one of my boys. They have a tendency towards tearing down a motor or some other project and leaving the piles around the shop to get in my way. I have been known to toss a random bolt or other part into their pile just to watch the consternation when they can't figure out where it goes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81237&d=1519065907

[edwardb]

I was cleaning up the other night and found this near the front of my car. It appears to be a set screw with an allen drive. It is stainless steel. I cannot find a home for it anywhere on the car. Does anyone recognize it. My project is not the only thing going on in my shop so it could be from something else. Or it could be a prank from one of my boys. They have a tendency towards tearing down a motor or some other project and leaving the piles around the shop to get in my way. I have been known to toss a random bolt or other part into their pile just to watch the consternation when they can't figure out where it goes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81237&d=1519065907

Check the steering shaft adapter at your steering rack. It uses a set screw like that along with a hex jam nut. Only place I can think of.

[sbhunter]

I received all the IRS parts Friday and spent Sunday putting it together. Due to those who have traveled before me, it was fairly straight forward. I knew going in that some of the mounts would be tight and or misaligned so I had a long punch and a large crescent wrench on hand. I had preorganized all the needed parts bags and other items needed into one box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81233&d=1519065873

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81231&d=1519065851

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81232&d=1519065863

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81234&d=1519065884

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81235&d=1519065893

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81236&d=1519065900

And finished the evening by installing the rear sway bar.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81230&d=1519065842

[sbhunter]

I went completely through the steering column. That was my first thought also. I wonder if there was an extra set screw packaged with it that fell out when I was unboxing it.

[sbhunter]

I finished out the brake install yesterday. This is how I mounted the flex line to the body in the rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81376&d=1519219132

This is the front. I went to the front 2x2 upright with the mount. I liked how the flex line laid better this way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81375&d=1519219123

This is what I ended up with going across the front. Its hard to tell in the picture but the power steeriing lines should have plenty of room to come up through the bend in the brake line going to the passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81377&d=1519219152

This is the line that shipped with my kit. It is awesome. It bends easily, doesn't kink, and the coating doesn't peel off when bent.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81379&d=1519219178

[sbhunter]

I installed the fuel sender that just arrived from the POL list and mounted the tank. I had cut off and lowered the passenger side rear tank strap mount previously. I had to shorten the tank strap for that side by about an inch. I cut it in two and laid it back on itself and welded both sides. Then I rebent it to the contours of the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81384&d=1519219800

Sorry for the busy picture. This is starting to look like a car!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81380&d=1519219190

[Silv3rsurf3r]

I just got my engine stand from FFR today to mount the coyote on (versus the crate it came on) so I can get the oil pan and transmission on while it waits to go into the car sometime later. Quick question, it appears that it mounts to upper set of exhaust bolts, is that where yours is mounted?

BTW I think our kits rode together on the truck, mine was delivered 3 days after yours!

[sbhunter]

Yes, that is how I mounted mine. I was able to change the oil pan while on the stand. I had to set the stand and motor up on some 2x4’s to have room to work. It is close to the floor but it worked. There are 2 tabs that bolt onto the back that I haven’t found a use for. I had them loosely bolted on and had to remove them when I mounted up the bellhousing due to clearance. There are some spacers that need to be used when you bolt the lift plates onto the motor. I added a couple washers on the front one to move it out farther and get it squared up.

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Yes, that is how I mounted mine. I was able to change the oil pan while on the stand. I had to set the stand and motor up on some 2x4’s to have room to work. It is close to the floor but it worked. There are 2 tabs that bolt onto the back that I haven’t found a use for. I had them loosely bolted on and had to remove them when I mounted up the bellhousing due to clearance. There are some spacers that need to be used when you bolt the lift plates onto the motor. I added a couple washers on the front one to move it out farther and get it squared up.

Did you use any spacers or padding when you bolted the stand to the engine? Im afraid that the steel engine stand will dig in and/or gouge the aluminum heads with all that weight (eng,clutch, transmission, etc)...Thoughts anybody? Dan at FFR said he does the pan while engine is in air on hoist then mounts engine to stand, says theres alot more room to maneuver. My stand didnt come with any tabs but the rear cross-brace does have the 2 holes in it and I have 4 carriage bolts and nuts left over. Maybe they are supposed to support the transmission somehow. I also didnt receive any lift plates so I purchased some off of ebay that came with all the hardware and spacers and are working very nice. Ill have to post some pics after work today as soon as I can figure out how, I'm pretty new to this forum posting thing...Rob

[sbhunter]

Full disclosure. I have a fork lift that I use as an engine hoist. The stand is just for storage until install. I bolted the stand to the engine while it was hanging. I just snugged the bolts up enough to prevent movement. I took it off yesterday and dropped it in my car for first test fitting. There was no evidence it had been on there. No marks or mars at all. You would definitely have more room to change the pan the higher it’s off the ground. I was just saying it’s possible on the stand with a little extra ground clearance.

[sbhunter]

The forklift makes a great engine hoist but I had to come in from the side for clearance. This actually worked out to be an advantage because I could move the engine back and forth with it while rolling the dolly to move the engine front to rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81505&d=1519431966

Anyone that says this motor isn't big hasn't stuffed it in this hole yet. It did fit with no issues. The panels are form fitted around it like they were made for it, huh.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81506&d=1519431992

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81507&d=1519432007

I was already planning on relocating the first section of rear brake line to inside the DS footwell and come out at the bottom to follow the 4" round tube back but this confirms that the face of the DS panel is not a good place for fluid filled lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81508&d=1519432030

I have the midshift conversion from Forte installed and there was interference in the tunnel in the usual place. I have cut out a section and will weld in a piece of 3/4 tubing beside it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81509&d=1519432557

I was able to get my pinion and driveshaft angles set and made a transmission spacer for final install. I used the TREMEC app on my iPhone to set these angles but double checked them when I had it the way I wanted it. Anyone who still needs to setup their driveshaft needs to download this app. It makes it really easy to check adjustments in angles.

[lewma]

That's cheating using a forklift :cool:

Looks great!!

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Ok, glad to know the heads wont get messed up on the stand. I talked to Dan at FFR today and he confirmed thats how the engine should sit in it, however I guess the tabs you mention and the diagram were misplaced so he sent those out today, waiting another week for them to arrive. Dan said those tabs mount to the transmission somewhere and then mount to the rear crossbrace to provide support for the transmission so its not just the engine holding all the weight. I wish I had a forklift and the space apparently you have, bet that makes organization and storage so much easier! Wish I could say I was as far along as you but I just got the body off and panels marked and taken off last weekend. I wasnt a big fan of the rivets FFR sent so Im waiting on a sample pack to come in from Hanson Rivet to see if those will work better. Once I get the rivets picked and stocked up I think Ill be good to start moving ahead. Hows your back order list coming along? I'm only missing 2 more items; lemans cap and fuel pressure regulator and hoses...

[sbhunter]

I am missing the same 2 items!! I am using the fixed pressure regulator at the tank that I have discussed on the roadster page and I won’t need the fuel cap till final assembly so I’m moving forward. Big shops are great if you can limit the projects. I have a tractor in, my dad is building a sailboat, and my sons are constantly working on something. Keeping tools and parts located and sorted is a constant battle.

[sbhunter]

lewma, my forklift is a best buy ever. It’s like having an extra set of hands. I use it every day to do something. It’s a 78 Hyster and was built in Danville, IL which is 13 miles from my house. I’ve had it for 20 years and haven’t spent $50 on parts yet.

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Hah, yeah I think Im going to do the returnless fuel line option from Mark on his Breeze site. Yeah I can imagine your shop being quite upended with all that traffic, best of luck to ya! Im still here waiting for my account to get unlocked so I can edit my profile and start posting my build as well. I feel now that its here sitting in the garage its going to take a lot longer than I expected. I just checked my number on my car and I'm #9252, I still think thats funny our cars rode together. As soon as my account is unlocked I can load all the details of my order...in hindsight I wish I would have just gotten the Wilwoods but thats an easy upgrade later on if I feel I need it. However I was originally looking for the Bullitt style wheels like you got but got too frustrated trying to find the right backspacing and sizing requirements that I just bit the bullet and got the wheel/tire package from FFR...oh well

[Mark Eaton]

Just downloaded the Tremec app on my iPhone, thanks for the heads up!

[Straversi]

My Moroso pan leaked from the side plug and the drain plug. Both fixable, but now is a good time to put a couple quarts of oil in and check for leaks.
-Steve

[sbhunter]

I saved the oil when I changed my pan and poured it right back in. Haven’t had a drip yet. I have read of others leaking which is partially why I did that.

[sbhunter]

I got all the measurements and checks I needed with the motor in done and recorded. I removed the motor and commenced modifying the frame some more. I welded in a piece of 3/4" square tube where I had cut out a section to clear the midshift. I welded 2 bolts on that will be the bracket for the Lokar parking brake handle.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81825&d=1519818029

This is the final install of the fuel tank. That is the Breeze high flow vent on top. The Breeze high flow return is in the middle since I installed a 255 pump. I will plug off the 1/4" return.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81827&d=1519818074

I used spare hose to seal up the resevoir feed lines. A 2" section of 1" ID hose fit tightly into the predrilled hole and I was just able to pull the 3 resevoir lines through. I filled the gaps with silicone. I used a piece of the 1/4" fuel line to sleeve the front brake line to protect it from abrasion. I did the same on the bottom of the foot box where the rear line passes through.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81826&d=1519818065

I got my seat frames back from the powdercoater. They look great. I realize that most of it will be covered but the sides and part of the back will be visible after the cover is reinstalled. I ordered tires yesterday. I decided to be practical and went with the Nitto NT555 G2 . The fronts are 255/40R17 and rears 315/35R17. As much as I would love to spend most of my time on a track, more than likely a high percent of the miles will be on the road.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81828&d=1519818109

[Jeff Kleiner]

Coming along nicely Scott!

Jeff

[sbhunter]

Fuel lines are completed. I ran 3/8" to the front and decided to put the connection right behind the fuel rail inlet for the Coyote. I finished the connections on the filter/regulator and got it mounted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81937&d=1519987240

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81936&d=1519987234

I powder coated the Lokar parking brake handle and installed it. 3 clicks and it is locked. I really like how this turned out. I used longer bolts so that I can adjust position sided to side with washers and double nut.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81939&d=1519987275

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81938&d=1519987270

[sbhunter]

I have not taken any pics lately. I haven’t done anything different or unique but have made advances. After completing the fuel and brake lines, I went ahead and laid in the RF harness and locked it down from the firewall back. I may have jumped the gun but I went ahead and riveted in all the trunk panels. Hopefully it doesn’t bite me later. I routed all the wiring that lays under the motor and made sure it would reach the correct positions. Once that was done I couldn’t think of any reason not to drop the motor in for good. The only reason I might need to raise it out of the mounts would be to assist getting the header bolts in. The headers are currently being ceramic coated inside and out so I wasn’t able to install them while I lowered the engine as some have suggested. I bled the brakes and clutch with no leaks and a good hard peddle. I used the pressure cap for the CNC reservoirs and it worked fantastic. Unfortunately, I proved what many have written about already. I currently have a 3/4” master and 3/4” slave for the clutch. There was not enough throw even with all slack out of the system. The clutch disengaged one inch from the floor. I will order a 7/8” master and replace it. I am wading my way through the wiring now. It is overwhelming when I look at the whole but manageable if I focus on one area at a time.

[sbhunter]

My frustration with myself and the wiring is ongoing. In preparation for putting the coyote in, for hopefully final time, I had removed the coyote sender and installed the ffr supplied oil pressure sender. I just happened to catch edwardb’s response to a wiring question. He stated that the sender needs to be tee’d in with the original as the coyote harness uses the original sender for pressure if I am interpreting that correctly. The fact that I continue to miss things like this really concerns me. I feel like I am understanding the multiple sets of instructions but I keep making mistakes like this. Now I’m going to be working in a hole to redo what I’ve screwed up.

[sbhunter]

Question on oil pressure senders. I have the latest version of the coyote wiring and RF harness instruction as far as I can tell. It clearly states to remove the coyote oil pressure plug and sensor and that they will not be used. The instructions show it both tee’d in and removed depending on pic. Later, the manual references a low oil pressure shut down, which appears to be the removed sensor. I’m assuming edwardb is correct as his research and knowledge far exceeds mine. Please confirm one way or the other someone. This is a gen2 coyote

[edwardb]

Question on oil pressure senders. I have the latest version of the coyote wiring and RF harness instruction as far as I can tell. It clearly states to remove the coyote oil pressure plug and sensor and that they will not be used. The instructions show it both tee’d in and removed depending on pic. Later, the manual references a low oil pressure shut down, which appears to be the removed sensor. I’m assuming edwardb is correct as his research and knowledge far exceeds mine. Please confirm one way or the other someone. This is a gen2 coyote

OK. Looking at the most recent instructions on the FF website, you're right. It does say remove the OE Coyote oil pressure sender and replace with the Speedhut one. That's different than what it said when I did mine with a tee connection, leaving the OE one and adding the Speedhut sender, and how I've responded when the question was asked. Also a bit confusing as you say because the tee connection is still pictured in the FF instructions. I suspect it's just fine without it. Apparently the OE sender is also only for the gauge display, and not needed since the Speedhut sender is all that's needed for gauges in our builds. FWIW, I just looked at the data log files used by the tuner on my Coyote. Of the nearly 40 data streams coming out of the computer, oil pressure isn't one of them. Apparently the computer doesn't monitor it either, which supports not needing the OE sender.

The oil level sensor is in the oil pan. My 2015 Gen 2 had the sensor and wire, and I installed in the Moroso pan. I've heard, however, that this function is also disabled in the crate version, and isn't even included in later years. Moroso has a plug for that hole in the pan.

[sbhunter]

You are fantastic edwardb. The data log info is really good stuff. I can confirm that when I changed my pan that there was no sensor or wiring for oil monitoring in that area on a late 2017 motor.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm working on a Coyote powered car currently; no "T", only the Speedhut gauge sender.

Jeff

[sbhunter]

I FINALLY got my wheels from the powdercoater and got the tires mounted. I think they turned out fantastic. They are the standard issue American Racing wheel but I removed the paint with a media blaster and had them powder coated gloss black. I would have done them myself but I haven't built a larger oven yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82753&d=1521376325

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82755&d=1521376349

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82754&d=1521376338

[sbhunter]

This is the KRC pump/resevoir assembly installed on my Coyote engine. This is the kit that FFR is selling now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82757&d=1521376389

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82756&d=1521376376

It really tucks into the head and valve cover nicely. The kit also includes 2 stainless braided lines premade.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I like the wheels Scott!

The new pump and reservoir are really nice and tidy.

Jeff

[Mark Eaton]

Scott, those wheels look great!

Mark

[sbhunter]

When I took delivery in early January, I set a goal of go-cart by 4/1. It was ambitious yes but I thought I could do it. I quickly revised this to at least have the engine running by then. Neither has occurred. I work 3 days out of 9 as a career firefighter and am a grain farmer when I’m home. I do all my posting, reading and research in my down time at the fire station. Planting season is almost here and I’m going to have to throw a tarp over this project till June unfortunately. I’ve been installing field tile for a couple weeks and was prepping tillage tools Friday (50 degrees and sunny). Saturday was a full on blizzard with 8” of blowing snow. There aren’t very many trees left where I live and 8” of blowing snow = 4’ drifts on the county roads and my driveway. I spent all day plowing drives and makes rescue calls for accidents for the volunteer department I’m on. Sunday afternoon was 50 and sunny again. Gotta love spring in Indiana. I did get my 3/4” master switched out for a 7/8” master on the hyd clutch (3/4” slave). I now have the appropriate amount of throw, it is fully disengaged 2” from the stop, and am happy with the feel. The wiring has slowed me down but I’m slogging through it.

[Boydster]

Life does get in the way, eh? I'm over a year building. Did my first start in October and just now almost ready for go-kart. I didnt set any time goals... just said I'll take my time and what happens... happens.

Dont let it frustrate you. She'll be waiting when you can get back to her.
Thanks for your firefighter / rescue work.

[42Bfast]

Hang in there Scott. My build has slowed too due to a dead AC unit that is forcing the timeline on my house renovation. (It’s already warming up in Pensacola so the new AC has to go in soon!)

Goals and timetables can help us gain focus, but they can also frustrate and rob us of the joy of the journey. It has taken me the better part of 30 years to recognize the pitfalls and begin to find some balance and enjoyment of the journey rather than just driving for the satisfaction of the accomplishment.

Find your balance that keeps you moving, but don’t forget to relax, take some pressure off yourself, and enjoy the journey!

[42Bfast]

BTW — loving your build thread. Good stuff!

[cgundermann]

Very cool wheels Scott!

Chris

[sbhunter]

I am always impressed by this forum. I took 2 months off to put crops in the ground and I'm pushed clear back to page 4!! I have just started to get back on my build. The last 2 days were mostly trying to remember where I had left off. I got my driveshaft hoop built. I had been wanting to make my own but struggling with what to use. I found this old hydraulic cylinder in one of my sheds.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86413&d=1527624970

I used a plasma cutter to cut a 2" ring out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86414&d=1527624987

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86415&d=1527624996

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86417&d=1527625014

The brackets are welded on so that the bolts pass up through the frame members into a welded on nut for easy removal from under the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86418&d=1527625024

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=86416&d=1527625006

[Straversi]

Well, now you know why you saved that old cylinder all this time. I never throw out anything either. Nicely done.
-Steve

[Mark Eaton]

Now thats some fabrication! I really like the idea of welding the nut onto the chassis. And I'm sitting here trying to figure out how I have gotten this far in my life without a plasma cutter...

[sbhunter]

I don’t have pics because I’m not doing anything unique. I have been going through wiring diagrams and hooking up the appropriate leads from the various harnesses. It is not that complicated but it requires concentration to make sure each area is complete and correct. Ive also been buttoning up the front of the motor. Power steering, radiator, etc. If all goes well, I’m hoping for first start by the end of this week.

[Dave Howard]

Nice job on the safety hoop.

As for the wiring and plumbing, It's pretty straight forward. FFR did a great job with the Coyote install manual. I found this part of the build to be the biggest challenge. Not a challenge from the point of it being difficult. It was a challenge to stay focused with mind on task. Early morning work with a clear head. Read the instructions, find the various tie in points on the wiring harnesses, check, check, check and make the solder connections. Determining the physical position for the Coyote electrical components was fun. Everything hidden and out of sight. And at the end of it, turn the key and VROOM.

You'll be posting first start video before the crop sprouts.

[sbhunter]

It happened Friday! Probably jumped the gun but I got the ignition wired and had to try it. My son put 2 gallons of gas in and vroom!!

https://youtu.be/RwyHhi62Gbk

I did not have the radiator plumbed yet and had no intention of running it very long. When I bent over to goose it, there were 3 rapidly growing pools of gas on the floor. I had not tightened any of my fittings very tight and some quick wrenching fixed them all.

[sbhunter]

I am starting to get some decent hours to work on the roadster again and all 3 of my sons are home right now from college. Good times are being had in the Hunter shop!! The radiator lines and overflow tank are run and mounted. I continue to tie down and finish up areas of the wiring harness. Last night we decided we were far enough along to put in some panels. We siliconed and riveted in all the panels for the passenger compartment except the tunnel top which will be removable. I had one set back. The new FFR optional KRC power steering pump has an integral tank. The fittings are part of the tank and are aluminum AN style. The supplied lines are chrome plated. I knew better but I threaded the top fitting together dry. It leaked a little so I tightened it. It didn't fell right so I attempted to take it off. The threads galled and stripped all the threads off the aluminum fitting. New tank is ordered ($150 with shipping) and I will be more careful on the reinstall. I will take pics of the setup when it is installed and not leaking.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Awesome Scott!

Jeff

[Hacksaw84]

My only other suggestion is I have a spreadsheet I called tips and tricks. As I read through build threads and other discussions I grab the ideas and put them in my spreadsheet. I really need to do the next step now and that is take those jewels and put the notes right in the manual where they belong.

Would you be willing to share this spreadsheet?
Thanks,
Michael
michael.a.craven@gmail.com

[sbhunter]

Hacksaw84, I don't have a spreadsheet. If I stated that I had one in an earlier post, I apologize. That is a great idea and would speed up the build process.

[sbhunter]

The dash layout has been something that has really consumed my thoughts since I started this project. I have looked at countless pics of standard versus competition layouts and many custom setups. I finally decided to just sit in the car with the steering wheel and put them where they look good to me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88161&d=1530447660

They aren't squared or finished yet but this is what I came up with. I drilled 4 holes for the indicator lights to put in as many have and somehow managed to get one just a hair off. When I popped the lights in, they looked terrible. I was crushed and staring at it when my 3rd son said he had an idea and to let him fix it. He took the oil temp gauge which I hadn't used, gutted it, made a new face plate, and mounted the lights in it. I think it looks great and couldn't me more proud of him and relieved that my mistake had been hidden.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88160&d=1530447658

After wiring up the gauges according to the ffr instructions for the Autometer set, the water temp, tach and speedo did not work. the tach required an adaptor from Autometer to correct the signal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88165&d=1530447751

This taps into the main feed wire to the coil packs on the coyote setup. The speedo just needed to be calibrated. The water temp took a bit longer to figure out. After much trial and tracing, one of my sons found that the wires for the water temp and oil temp were crossed in the dash plug. All gauges are functioning normally now.

[sbhunter]

I used one of the brake resevoirs from the kit to make my fuel tank vent. It was also a test piece for my powdercoat setup. I think it turned out really nice for something that no one will see again once the body is on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88157&d=1530447651

I used a Canton overflow tank with a sight gauge to finish up my coolant plumbing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88164&d=1530447666

Two of my sons offered to learn how to do alignments and rough align the car for me. They spent 4 hours on google and setting up string around the car like a museum exhibit. Using a square, tape measure, and calculator they got the car very close to the standard numbers from the manual. I will take it to a shop I know and have it finished but on initial drives, it tracks straight and feels good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88162&d=1530447662

[sbhunter]

I took the roadster to its first car show last weekend. There is an annual show in the small town that is near my house that usually has 30 or so cars there and is a fund raiser for the volunteer fire department. I thought it would be fun to take my car in go cart stage just to see the reaction and let people see a car under construction. It was a beautiful day. There ended up being almost 60 vehicles there and a good crowd. I fielded many questions about what it was and was going to be.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88158&d=1530447653

This pic was taken right after I got there. It filled in shortly after. Yes, that is a farmall tractor. The car next to me is a full custom build on air ride with a 38 dodge steel cab with Oklahoma patina. It is sporting a custom LS3 making 650hp naturally!

[sbhunter]

As you may have surmised from previous posts, it is officially a driver in the go cart stage. I have not taken a decent video with a camera in the car but have a few short clips of trial runs in front of the house on my youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YDw9s_-i48

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEhUKIEOmZE

[Boydster]

I used one of the brake resevoirs from the kit to make my fuel tank vent. It was also a test piece for my powdercoat setup. I think it turned out really nice for something that no one will see again once the body is on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88157&d=1530447651

<snip>



OMG, I love this. Gets rid of the PVC. I just removed 3 of these from my car that I hate to toss, but didnt know what to do with. And it doesn't matter if they leak. Any issues with me borrowing your idea? If not, I'm headed to the garage...

[Boydster]

Go Cart shows are fun! I've taken mine out twice now and its a great conversation piece.

Your Go Cart runs sound great. Love her smile when ya come back in.

Congratulations!!

[JoeAIII]

OMG, I love this. Gets rid of the PVC. I just removed 3 of these from my car that I hate to toss, but didnt know what to do with. And it doesn't matter if they leak. Any issues with me borrowing your idea? If not, I'm headed to the garage...

Don't worry, I'm... borrowing... this idea as well ��

[Dave Howard]

8825888259

Steve,
I was catching up on your build thread and was enjoying the read about 1st start. Thank god you didn't need one of these bad boys. I was checking this surplus unit out at work the other day and thought, I didn't have as nice toys when I was a fireman years ago.
Good luck with the rest of the build.

[Straversi]

Don't worry, I'm... borrowing... this idea as well ��

Yep, I have a extra air/oil separator in the pile that is being repurposed as well. Good ideas get copied fast.

-Steve

[sbhunter]

That fire “truck” is really cool! It looks like a cross between an airport response unit and a forestry truck. I have never seen one like it. I have 2 sons in engineering at different colleges. They are both involved in various scca or go cart builds through their schools. They are drooling over my unused parts pile. As soon as I’m sure I don’t need a lot of this stuff, they will be fighting over who gets to take it to school with them this fall. I enjoy repurposing things like the reservoirs.

[TexasAviator]

I am enjoying your build. Saw the comments on the air oil separator. I have a few drives on my car allowing my car to get up to temperature and with just a few miles it's already pulled out a few cc's of oil. They are worth the cost for oil control alone. I am using a steeda brand Separator.

[lewma]

As you may have surmised from previous posts, it is officially a driver in the go cart stage. I have not taken a decent video with a camera in the car but have a few short clips of trial runs in front of the house on my youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YDw9s_-i48

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEhUKIEOmZE

Scott

I was looking at your first youtube there where you pan around the engine bay, hoping to see how you plumbed up the CMCV valves. Couple of questions for you:

1. You didn't need to put a 1/2 barb into the 90deg intake tube ?
2. I can see the DS has a 1/2" heater tube going from the valve cover to the rear of the engine. Did you select the "relaxed emissions option" ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
mark

[sbhunter]

it took me awhile to figure out that the 17 version of the coyote was different from many of the directions posted. You need to hook the plastic line coming out from under the passenger front of the intake to a vacuum source. I hooked mine up to a port behind the butterfly. That’s it. No other connections needed. I am running the relaxed emissions setup. The intake will eventually be replaced with a cold air setup. There are some great threads in the roadster section related to your questions.

[sbhunter]

If you didn’t see my post in the roadster section, I wrecked my car in the go cart stage. I didn’t get hurt but it could have been much worse. I broke it loose in second gear and it came around on me faster than I could catch it. I went through a woven wire fence backwards. The top strand of barbed wire went up over the roll bars and jumped my head. If I’d gone through forward it would have decapitated me. I’ve been so disgusted with myself that I haven’t touched it since. I’m starting to collect the parts to get going again. I damaged both side pipes, destroyed the left header, and bent some of the aluminum panels. Harvest is wrapping up and I’m getting back to working on the roadster. I will take pics of the damage tomorrow and get them posted for the curious.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?29108-Wrecked-go-cart

[sbhunter]

For your viewing pleasure and my continued humility, I am posting pics of the end result of being stupid.

Passenger rear aluminum
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96239&d=1540414514

Roll bar showing scratches from barb wire strand going up and over car. I am going to leave this and clear coat it as a reminder to myself to not be stupid.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96238&d=1540414498

When the dust settled the outlet of this pipe was under the right side pipe. It pretzled the hanger and destroyed the rubber biscuit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96236&d=1540414464

Unfortunately, it also ruined the left header. This proved to be, by far, the most expensive part because they are only sold in pairs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96235&d=1540414449

Drivers foot box panels. I believe that I can straighten these well enough to seal to the other panels on final assembly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96237&d=1540414483

Other than the header and side pipe, the damage wasn't that expensive, just humiliating. The frame and suspension show no damage that I can see. I will send it through the ride height and alignment process again to make sure. Remember, "don't be a me"

[sbhunter]

I purchased a new set of headers and had them ceramic coated. After staring at them for a couple weeks and thinking about the amount of heat in and around the foot boxes, I decided to try wrapping this set. I studied my favorite expert, Youtube, and ordered DEI Titanium wrap. It is easier to work with and should last longer then fiberglass. These are before and after pictures. I intend to coat them with silicone sealer as DEI suggests. I am kind of disappointed that DEI's sealer only comes in black. I like the way these look right now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96234&d=1540414436

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96233&d=1540414400

[sbhunter]

Haven’t been on the forum since November. Boy are you all prolific! I got voted in as Chief of the volunteer fire department that I have been on for 21 years last November. Unfortunately the sheer amount of things that need my immediate attention has been completely overwhelming. Combining this with 2 full time jobs has been a real challenge. I have tarped my build for now. Hopefully by next fall I will have caught up enough to get back to it. In the mean time, please be careful out there, enjoy your builds, and stay safe!

[Dave Howard]

Congratulations Chief.

I had to resign after 10 years on a volunteer fire department. Built a house on a lake and the response time jumped to 15 minutes. No regrets what so ever. Many mostly good memories.

[TexasAviator]

Take a breather, its not that bad. I look back on past projects I sold and it literally hurts. I am driving my car now in red gelcoat but its so fun and turns so many heads. Its an experience and I dont want to keep moving from poject to project anymore. I want to keep improving this one. Take the time to work and crush that new job. Once things get boring and/or you have time, come back to the cobra. She will be waiting for you.

Good luck Chief.

Brandon

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Scott!
Was just thinking of you a few days ago and wondered how things were going. Good to see you posting again and stay in touch!

Jeff