Would this effect braking?

[efnfast]

I have a 1/4'' ball valve plumbed into my rear brake line. In order to get it to work with standard 3/16'' IF brake line I needed to cut the brake line and crimp on some Swagelok ferrules.

When I cut the line (where it enters and exits the ball valve) I just used a tubing cutter and did not use a drill bit to poke open the ends again post-cutting. (i.e., I just cut them with the tube cutter, then put the line right into service)

I've always had a nagging feeling that because I did this (failure to poke open the end after cutting it) my rear brakes arn't as strong as they should be.

Do you think that I've severly effected the rear braking, and would notice a big difference if I replaced the 2 lines and poked them open properly after cutting?

[Bob Cowan]

In theory, yes, it degrades performance. Unless you're routinly threshold braking, you won't feel any differance.

[Mustang Man]

Usually, a quality tubing cutter used properly will not deform the end of a steel line. Should you have filed/deburred the cut, yes, but I've never had to stick a drill bit into a line and make it round again after using a tubing cutter.

I doubt you really have any restriction there...

Mark

[tim-in-oakton]

Not to be a nanny, but make sure that the pressure rating of the "ball valve" matches the application. If this is an emergency brake approach, be aware that a TINY failure to seal could be disastrous if parked on an incline - keep it in gear with the wheels turned from the curb!

I don't think that the incremental obstruction of not reaming/chamfering the cut edge will obstruct flow.