Transmission/clutch cable ? and issues continue [Archive]

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awd-turbo

11-10-2017, 08:31 AM

So I have a tko600 tranny.. when I go to down shift I have to rev match basically or my syncro's grind... This cant be normal... Or is this just break in... I only have 61 miles on the car now, after my cold ride into work this morning...

Also, my clutch cable stretched a good bit, I know this is normal to stretch some.. But I had to adjust it out about 3/4 of an inch..

steno

11-10-2017, 08:37 AM

Ford cable? The ONLY way to go if you’re using a cable for actuation.

scottiec

11-10-2017, 08:40 AM

If your cable has stretched and you are noticing difficulty getting into gear or grinding on downshifts, then your clutch probably isnt disengaging all the way. try and take a look at where the clutch fork is coming out of the housing of the trans. Make sure it isn't hitting the sides of the hole.

awd-turbo

11-10-2017, 08:51 AM

Cable that came with the kit... I dont know if it is ford or not. Also do they send different cables with the kit depending on engine and tranny? Original build was a 4.6 terminator engine. That is what the guy purchased most of his parts for. I went with tko600.

Ill look when i get home tonight. I am not having issues getting it into gear, just down shifting... I think maybe my throttle is sticking just a little... Ill have to look at that also.

Dave Howard

11-10-2017, 10:03 AM

I agree with the clutch not fully disengaging theory. I had the same issue shifting into reverse with the TKO600. A little grinding noise. I have a Ford Racing cable. Just needed a few turns and all is good.

awd-turbo

11-10-2017, 10:16 AM

BEAR-AvHistory

11-10-2017, 12:29 PM

I found the issue I think.... The clutch cable is not stretching... the bolt on the cable at the tranny is working loose. I need a second one to lock on the first one... I am at work, does anyone know the size and the thread pitch of those bolts?

If no one can help take the one you have to Home Depot or a good hardware store & use their test studs to get a match. You need to go out to buy one anyway.

AC Bill

11-10-2017, 01:29 PM

Your looking for a second nut, to use as a jam nut I gather?..I believe they are 5/16" -24* thread.

You'd think they would either provide a lock nut, or a jam nut, with the cable...:(

*There are a few overseas companies producing them these days, so they may have even gone metric by now..

karlos

11-10-2017, 04:17 PM

I didn't use the cable that came with my kit so it's still in the box and easy to photograph. Thread size is metric 8 mm X 1.25. Hopefully you're just missing the jamb nut. As you can see in the photo, the other (longer) nut is radiused where it contacts the clutch fork. Might be difficult to find something like that at the hardware store.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76578&d=1510348420

awd-turbo

11-10-2017, 07:02 PM

awd-turbo

11-10-2017, 07:20 PM

So after a couple drives with people in the car from work, nothing hard since it is a new engine... 120 miles new... I noticed a couple of things... one time I parked the car and went inside for 20 min, came out and had a hell of a time getting the car to start again.. it finally did and off we went... same issue a couple hours later.... hummmm. I thought... I got the clutch cable issue fixed... no biggie there..

So i go to leave for the day, car takes a hell of a time to start again.... but none the less it does... I do my 45 mile commute home... I notice a couple of times when I let off the gas 2200rpms and higher, there is no engine brake.. It still goes like the throttle is stuck... So, I place my foot under the gas pedal and try to pull it up... it doesnt move.. It is already in the rest position... hummm... So I push the clutch in.... car idle is still at 2200 rpms... and it eventually drops after coasting for some time... I get home fine, most of my driving is highway... actually 95% of it is...

So I pull the car into the garage and turn it off... It stutters, then dies.... I get out open the hood, I can hear a leaking sound. Like gas leaking out of a pressure environment. a slow hiss.... I look and I see that the gas on the carb window is slowly going down... I also see gas outside of the carb and leaking out of spots it shouldnt be... (see the pictures below) So, this tells me that the car wouldnt start before cause the manual fuel pump had to work to get gas up to the carb... Since it all had leaked out... This is a brand new carb and brand new engine.... I am a little miffed here....

Here is where the gas is leaking out....

throttle linkage side... I dont know where it is coming out of in the front of the carb on this side... there is a pool of gas on the intake manifold though
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/38320084351_d6a072106a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21ods2v)IMG_20171110_185734 (https://flic.kr/p/21ods2v)

on this picture directly down from the end of the quick fuel sticker is a black spacer piece... Gas is coming out there...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4545/38265074156_29557179ba_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21imvpS)IMG_20171110_185652 (https://flic.kr/p/21imvpS)

This is the choke side.... that gold color rodhas gas dripping down it..
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4537/24449791498_6e02f445f5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Dfxzch)IMG_20171110_185709 (https://flic.kr/p/Dfxzch)

edwardb

11-10-2017, 08:22 PM

The two areas you show leaks from aren't specifically sealed. There shouldn't be fuel free flowing there in the first place. Appears to me fuel is leaking internally from somewhere else. Needle valves and float adjustments are always something to check, but if the bowls are draining down, seems unlikely. Less likely but I would also check your fuel pump pressure. Other possibilities could be metering block gaskets, power valve leaking, or something else clogged causing the carb to siphon. That fact that it appears to be flowing fuel even without the throttle down suggest something is leaking or siphoning internally. I would take the bowls and metering blocks off (easy to do) and look things over. Personally I wouldn't drive it until the problem is resolved.

awd-turbo

11-10-2017, 09:32 PM

I'll start there... Thanks Edwardb... I literally know nothing about carbs. I know efi and programming... Guess it is time to do some reading.

edwardb

11-10-2017, 11:45 PM

I'll start there... Thanks Edwardb... I literally know nothing about carbs. I know efi and programming... Guess it is time to do some reading.

Good luck. You may want to either change the thread title or start a new thread. That might help to get some ideas from other forum members with way more experience than the two QuickFuel powered builds I've done.

wareaglescott

11-11-2017, 06:41 AM

Good luck getting this sorted. You have more courage than me taking a car with less than 100 miles on it on a 45 mile commute to work mostly highway. I like your style. Jump right in with both feet!

frankb

11-11-2017, 08:46 AM

mike223

11-11-2017, 08:53 AM

Does it smell of fuel when you park it in your garage hot?

My guess is the fuel is boiling out the (float bowl) vents and dribbling down through the carb, leaving you with a flooded engine and empty float bowls.

You can look for that and you can try a phenolic spacer under the carb to keep it cooler.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetor-spacers/carburetor-spacer-material/phenolic-plastic

I run an electric pump and shut off the pump early to idle the float bowls empty to avoid this.

I think since everything went to pressurized fuel tanks + EFI they're running a lower boiling point on pump gas...

Railroad

11-11-2017, 08:58 AM

The hard starting after warm up is definitely flooding from the carb. It does sound like a leak, but could be the fuel boiling. Make sure you are not cooking the fuel prior to going into the carb, ie, fuel line too close to a heat source. Next, you might need an insulating spacer under the carb. I am not familiar with the sight gauge on your carb, but on a Holley, the fuel should not be visible, unless the engine is rocked to slosh the fuel. Make sure your fuel level is correct. Your fuel vents must be clear, some air filters can be too close to them or some add hoses for extensions. Most vents are cut on a 45* to prevent this.
With the air filter removed, engine shut down, after a warm up drive, look into the top of the carb. You will probably notice fuel being pushed out the venturi. This can be either fuel boil or fuel level.
If you have indications of fuel boil, most intakes have an exhaust crossover to add heat for improved cold weather/startup driving. Blocking off these ports will reduce this heat source and probably not be missed except in extreme cold. It looks like you are overflowing on the primaries and secondaries. Too much fuel or boiling. Post your fuel pressure and any other related "finds". It should not be too hard to fix.
If you are going to keep driving and encountering the hard start, hold the throttle wide open while cranking. This is the quickest way to clear the flooding and get started.

mike223

11-11-2017, 09:15 AM

I am not familiar with the sight gauge on your carb, but on a Holley, the fuel should not be visible, unless the engine is rocked to slosh the fuel. Make sure your fuel level is correct.

Nice catch - it's probably "both" - that would explain the intermittent 2200 rpm idle after warmup too.

edwardb

11-11-2017, 11:56 AM

I know from his build thread the carb in use here is a Quick Fuel vacuum secondary. Kind of the go-to Mike Forte seems to be using these days. For Quick Fuels, (1) The sight glass is permanently installed in both fuel bowls, (2) Instructions from Quick Fuel: "For the carburetor to operate correctly the float levels must be in the middle of the sight glass."

Fuel boiling was something I thought of too, and could be happening. But typically wouldn't show signs of leakage that, would it?

mike223

11-11-2017, 12:28 PM

But typically wouldn't show signs of leakage that, would it?

On a hot shut off heat soak boil off (big enough to flood the engine) - I would expect to see some fuel "wicking" out around the throttle shafts at the base plate.

Winter gas is worse for this than summer blends (lower boiling point).

I don't know exactly when they switch over to winter gas, I'm thinking it's not long after Labor Day.

awd-turbo

11-11-2017, 01:13 PM

Interesting... I had multiple conversations with Mike forte. Who built my engine.. awesome customer support. We talked for over an hour this morning while.i worked on some things he suggested... My fuel line does run next to the valve cover.. so heating the gas might be a problem.

awd-turbo

11-11-2017, 02:20 PM

AWD:

Question...are both fuel bowls draining, or just one? From the few details you have given, I would suspect the power valve is either blown (failed diaphragm) or not installed correctly (no gasket or gasket mis-aligned). I agree with EdwardB...you should not drive it until this leak issue is repaired!

Frank B

It is only the primary float bowl that is emptying, I think. I didn't pay much attention to the secondary one.... I'll have too look. Everything runs fine when it is a cold start.. so boiling gas does make some sense... I'll move my fuel line away from the valve cover and see how it does...