Curvy Road G3 Coupe Build [Archive]

forcefed1

11-05-2017, 08:41 AM

After 16 years of waiting for the "right" time, I finally ordered my first Factory Five!
11 years ago I was sure it would be a GTM. During that time i have bought and still own some other cars similar to the GTM but, nothing quite like my first factory five love the 65 Coupe.

Aside from lots of pictures on the internet, I have only seen a Gen 1 up close and it was not complete.

Recently my son and I had a chance to test drive a MKII cobra. It was a basic build with a 4.6. no additional options. I mostly drove it so I could cross it OFF my list of future cars for my collection. Something different happened. WE LOVED IT. but at 6'2" I didnt fit in it. My friend offered it to me at a very attractive price. I did some research on ways to modify it so I would fit and researched other options i could add to make it more my style. During that process one thought kept coming back to me. The satisfaction I get from cars is as much in projects i get to do as the drive. I dont currently have any exciting car projects on the horizon and winter is coming.... I would much rather build the exact car I want than buy someone elses and modify it even though it will cost more.

As soon as I discovered the revisions on the 65 Coupe i was Hooked.

Tomorrow a friend of mine, whom wanted a road trip, leaves for MA to go pick mine up.

Here's the details of the build:

It will be a street car with the classic style and shape but modern race car looks I plan to build it as a local show and go car. I track other cars several times a year and plan to take this to the track some also. However i do not plan to have this be my "track car" carving out the fastest laps I can. Simply put its way easier to replace my BMW M Coupe than the time and effort i will have in this car and the tirewall never seems to ask anyone about that before making a mess of it...

Specifics on my our order sheet

Gen 3 coupe complete kit
black frame
2015 IRS
Coyote motor
factory five coyote Power steering
factory five coyote A/C
front Aero bumper

2015 Coyote motor from Mustang GT
MT-85 6 speed
3.73 performance package rear end

I am considering power brakes and ABS
also looking into traction control.

wareaglescott

11-05-2017, 08:55 AM

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the build process. Love my Coyote powered roadster. I think you will be very pleased.
Do you have a color in mind?
What other cars are in your collection?

GoDadGo

11-05-2017, 09:38 AM

Welcome Aboard!

The New Type-65 Is The Very Best Of What Factory Five Racing Has To Offer!
As for me, I'm a big fan of 6 forward gears and those 3.73's will really wake up that Coyote.
Also, consider getting the Kirkey Race Seats to give a little extra room since you are less than vertically challenged!

Again, Welcome Aboard!

Steve

John Dol

11-05-2017, 05:23 PM

Congrats on the order, you will be pleased as the coupe is a gorgeous car and even more so now that it has been redesigned.
Post pics, we like those!!
Good luck on the build.

John

forcefed1

11-10-2017, 10:27 PM

Thanks Guys,
It has been a whirl-wind week! very exciting! not much sleep.

For an update,
I finished up the little projects I had left to do in the garage and on my other cars to prepare for the kit's arrival.

I washed the floors and got everything ready for the BIG DELIVERY.

then the parts started to arrive!

76587

it just didn't look right for a few days.
76589

I bought a "crank a pallet" kit from a salvage yard in GA. They also sold me all the IRS components from the same car
a 2015 Mustang GT with ~20K on it. It came complete with ALL the parts needed to run the engine on the pallet and a complete chassis wiring harness.

My friend Bo went to pick the kit up for me. He wanted a road trip to MA. He finally returned at 2AM in the cold and rain.
We IMMEDIATLY unloaded everything and started inventory.
No way was I sleeping! This really was like the best Christmas morning ever from when I was a kid.
Very exciting!
76588
76590

I didn't find any mistakes on the missing parts list.

Most of the parts came. Several big ones are missing for the IRS like the rear arms.
the power steering rack is also missing. I guess I wont have it rolling on tires this week.

forcefed1

11-10-2017, 10:34 PM

Later when my son finished school we continued the inventory and then began assembly!.
We got the front suspension all together with the help of Tim who stopped over to check it out.
76591

76592

76593

We even stopped to powdercoat the steel spacers metallic red and paint the spindle hubs.
I really enjoy being able to take the time and do the job correctly from the ground up.
the torque wrench really got some use in this section.
Factory Five does a very nice job packaging everything. They really make it easy for you to move through the build with all the clear directions and photos.

The gen 3 manual seems to be up to date.

forcefed1

11-10-2017, 10:42 PM

For today I took the parts from the IRS apart.
We sandblasted all of the non aluminum parts, painted the spindles and rear end and prepared the brake hardware for powdercoating. I'm not sure what color we will make the calipers yet
I don't have the upper and lower bars for the rear suspension yet so we wont be getting to far on this section.

it's supposed to be cold and windy all weekend. I plan to work both days on the build with Nate:)

RumRunner

11-11-2017, 10:05 AM

Congrats on the new project! Can I ask where you are located?

I built a GTM and am considering a 65 - would love to see the kit if you're close.

-Michael

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

forcefed1

11-11-2017, 01:35 PM

Congrats on the order, you will be pleased as the coupe is a gorgeous car and even more so now that it has been redesigned.
Post pics, we like those!!
Good luck on the build.

John

Thanks John! I'm very happy that I am able to work on my very own factory five! thanks for your support! I would also love to see what your coup looks like!

John Dol

11-11-2017, 04:04 PM

76612

Here's one from a little while ago.
Getting the last little things done before paint. Hopefully get that done over the winter period, and get it on the road next spring/summer.

John

forcefed1

11-12-2017, 10:35 PM

We got a few more things finished this weekend.
Removed the 2015 IRS sandblasted and painted the cast rear end aluminum colored.
Also modified the rear spindles and blasted and painted/powder coated those.

The rear suspension arms are on back order with the help of a friend and a rubber hammer we installed the carrier.
76655

While installing the gas tank i discovered there are some bends in the tank rim flanges to create more clearance for the straps. Those bends have to be removed before the straps will pull the tank up enough into the frame of the coupe. It looks like the gas tank has been reworked with out telling factory five. 76656

You can see here the I used some washers to wedge the top bolt into the frame bracket making it very easy to turn the nut without holding the bolt since there is no way you could get a wrench around it.
once the flanges were flattened the tank went right in.
76657

next onto the Willwood pedal assembly.

John Dol

11-13-2017, 02:53 PM

My tank was like that too. Used clamps to get them close enough to get the bolt in. Then used the bolt to do the rest.

John

edwardb

11-13-2017, 05:37 PM

While installing the gas tank i discovered there are some bends in the tank rim flanges to create more clearance for the straps. Those bends have to be removed before the straps will pull the tank up enough into the frame of the coupe. It looks like the gas tank has been reworked with out telling factory five...

Those bends in the tank rim have always been there. No surprise. FF's manual in the fuel tank installation section says "At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat." Hopefully you have the Gen 3 Coupe manual. It was recently released and should have been sent to you.

BTW, following your build closely. My Gen 3 Coupe is scheduled for completion on the 18th. Hopefully won't have to wait too long for my friends at Stewart to get it here.

forcefed1

11-20-2017, 12:24 AM

in the last week I was able to get the pedals mounted. I sure do like that willwood pedal assembly. Nice stuff!

With that finished I moved into the sheet metal of the pedal boxes and engine aluminum. A few friends stopped over the check things out and gave me some help on saturday. I decided to powdercoat all the the panels on both sides. After researching colors for a few hours, I finally choose SPEEDWAY BLACK from prismatic powders. It's a dark grey with lots of fine metallic in it. The powder itself is a low gloss. not a satin but not a bright gloss. I have used this color for the center of some 3 piece wheels. For those I followed with clear coat to give it extra shine.

After drilling all the panels. I coated them in my shop with the help of my son Nate. To cure the powder I use an old kitchen oven. Those side panels are the MAX that oven can handle!
I will be getting all the larger panels coated at a friends shop with a much larger oven.

here are a few pictures.

Got to love those cleco clamps. I'm real pleased with the look of the final boxes. the contrasting rivets on the grey look SICK Like a well machined prototype part!

I know I will be covering most of this up with heat shielding material But it's nice to get the foundation top notch too.

76899
76900
76901
76902
76903
76904

for the top drivers side foot box panel I tapped the holes 8-32 and used some Stainless steel button head screws.

A great time was had by all!

nkw8181

11-20-2017, 12:36 PM

Looking good! Mine should be getting loaded up with Stewart today. Where are you located?

forcefed1

11-23-2017, 09:42 AM

Man I'm struggling to pick a color for this build. SO MANY GREAT COLORS.

I have been seriously looking for months. The color I keep coming back to is pretty close to another car I own close to Candy red. I really want to have a different color. BUT I REALLY like the candy red and metallic grey combination.

Every week i change my mind when i see someones build that i like. Then every OTHER week i come back to the candy red type colors. choosing the color will no doubt be the hardest part of the build.

This week i did not get to work on it much so far...however see my thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26503-coyote-install-without-using-ford-controls-pack) in the Modular engines area.

I did get my coyote running on a pallet using all the original donor car wiring and sensors.

My plan at this point is NOT to use the ford controls pack or factory five chassis wiring harness. Sure using those parts would be easy and guarantee success, But, I bought this car for a project to do some things that others have not.
so if i can I will pave the way for any followers.

speaking of pave the way.

I got my front brakes in this week and trail fit them.

forcefed1

11-23-2017, 10:17 AM

For rear brakes I'm using the 2015 mustang GT performance package rear disks and rotors. they are about 13.5 " diameter dual piston caliper. I do not have my rear suspension parts from factory five yet to verify. It looks like they will fit with out any modification.

For front brakes, I wanted to use the ford 15" front rotors and 6 piston calipers from the 2015 performance package. Internet research showed that I would need to have 19" wheels. I am not going to use 19s Im going to use 18s.
SO i purchased some 2015 mustang gt 14" 4 piston front brakes. I got all rotors and loaded calipers in like new condition from a 2016 car with 8500 miles on it for 300$ shipped! WOW these things are MASSIVE!

I will design and fabricate some brackets to adapt them to the FFR spindles.

77030
They clear the suspension parts just fine

77031

I will have to modify the spindle lower brake attachment point. It looks like I will have to tap a new hole for a custom bracket.
77032

I own and operate a CNC machine shop and have 18 years engineering design background with degrees in both mechanical and electrical engineering. Modifying and fabricating some custom things here and there will not be too hard.

The wheel I have shown here for mock-up purposes is a 17" Fikse fm-5 three piece with a deep dish. IT BARELY CLEARS! but 18" wheels will clear for sure.
77033

I also took some time to paint the M-82 transmission.
77034

nkw8181

11-29-2017, 10:36 PM

Looking good! looking good! did you media blast your brake calipers?

forcefed1

11-29-2017, 11:40 PM

I did blast them. The photos show them before I put some VHT header paint on the non friction surfaces.

forcefed1

12-01-2017, 09:44 AM

In the last week I made some decent progress.

I got the rest of the panels drilled. My son and I spend Sunday Powder coating the ones we could fit in the oven. The larger ones will be heading to my friends shop to coat next week.

I also got the Coyote and MT-82 (stock 2015 Mustang GT) transmission installed!

MAN what a tight fit! I have installed some VERY tight engines over the years. Id say up to this point the twin turbo 911 was THE WORST. Well not any more. Coyote and MT-82 win the trophy for the tightest fit!

I had it rigged diagonally with a chain from the front drivers side to the rear passenger side. That really hurt when it got in the chassis. When I had to angle the nose of the tranny down, It tilted the engine from side to side. This made the top head hit and the bottom oil pan hit since it was hanging diagonal. I had my daughter come out and stand on the nose of the tranny to help it at the correct angle.
Im sure I will pull it out a time or three in the next few months. Next time I will rig it more on the center line front to back so it hangs and tilts correctly keeping the heads and oil pan away from the sides.

With the engine and tranny installed,
I also got the shifter modifications designed and transmission mounts figured out.
well rev one at least.

Im working on fabricating my design later today after work.

Jacob McCrea

12-01-2017, 03:43 PM

"For front brakes, I wanted to use the ford 15" front rotors and 6 piston calipers from the 2015 performance package. Internet research showed that I would need to have 19" wheels. I am not going to use 19s Im going to use 18s.
SO i purchased some 2015 mustang gt 14" 4 piston front brakes. I got all rotors and loaded calipers in like new condition from a 2016 car with 8500 miles on it for 300$ shipped! WOW these things are MASSIVE!"

That's pretty neat; I was wondering what it would take to make the latest 15" rotors work. The greater offset of the rotor should give more wheel choices than I had with a comparable setup. I used the same calipers, but 14" front rotors from a '12 GT500 (which have very little offset) and an adapter kit from Fully Torqued Racing. It was not a perfect fit and the wheel choice is about nil, but it was cheap and worked. I look forward to seeing how the calipers adapt to the FFR spindles on your setup.

David Hodgkins

12-01-2017, 04:25 PM

Great start so far!

I upgraded your account for full access and you can update your profile now. In case you want to embed your pics (full size) instead of using attachments, read this thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts

Do me a favor and throw some dirt on the garage floor. It's WAY too clean!!

:)

forcefed1

12-03-2017, 10:03 PM

I opened the power steering parts this evening and discovered it mounts right where my AC compressor sits.
Does anyone know if there is a way to do power steering and A/C?

perhaps I will need to figure this one out on my own.

forcefed1

12-03-2017, 10:22 PM

I worked on the mt-82 shifter base this weekend.
It came out great! I had to do a little cutting and tweaking on the first billet adapter but after several hours of that I think I have a final design. I plan to mill out a REV-2 tomorrow but REV-1 is already feeling pretty good.

The shifter feels nice and firm and with it tilted forward, placement is very nice.
As you can see im able to retain the reverse lockout too.

Im 6'2" and 195#. From what I can tell this shifter location is going to be about as good as it could get.

I also designed a rear transmission mount which I plan to mill out from a chunk of aluminum tomorrow too

ill post some photos in the next thread to catch you all up.

Sorry David. No dirt on the floor yet. though the inside of the machining center is a mess. Just a few shavings of metal.

forcefed1

12-03-2017, 10:36 PM

looks like i wont be uploading full size photos right away. I dont have time tonight to figure out how to make an album on teh forum and get it all working the first time maybe tomorrow.

until then here are a few thumbnails to hold you all over.

77403

the alternator sure is close to the shorty header! i think i will change these headers for the SST long tube ones.
77404

my daughter had to stand on the transmission to get the noise low enough so the oil pan would clear in the front.
77405

77406
77407

fabricating shifter REV-1
77408

rev 1 installed after some hacking!

looks and feels solid. retains stock lockout.
77409
77410

Erik W. Treves

12-03-2017, 10:42 PM

I like the shifter! FOr the alt.... the V6 one fits much better and uses the same pickup points on the motor. It allowed me to run my shorty headers.

also... any thoughts of selling (ME) one of those shifter conversions blocks?? mine works... but I am a sucker for aluminum pieces that are shiny!

forcefed1

12-04-2017, 09:43 AM

That's good info on the alternator.

I will fabricate shifter REV-2, which incorporates all the hacking, in a day or two and make 2 right way. Id be happy to send you one as payment for all the gleaning I have done of your G3 coupe build.

Erik W. Treves

12-04-2017, 10:15 AM

Oh wow... that's not necessary... but thanks!!!

forcefed1

12-10-2017, 09:58 AM

This week I moved efforts into getting the FORD MUSTANG GT full wiring harness working.

the last few wire harnesses i gave a "hair cut" to were from the late 80s early 90s before CAN bus.

I must say the 2015 Ford wire harness I have is very well assembled. the connections are nearly all unique and they use about 5 materials to wrap the harness for protection from all sorts of situations. I could note get over how they selected the proper gauge wire for each application VS making it all from 18 gauge wire.

Two weeks ago I connected my entire 2015 ford Coyote donor engine together on a crate. All my drivetrane parts are from a mustang GT. I connected the full engine and chassis wiring harness together with several of the other modules all removed from the car.
I stripped a 12 gauge ground wire from some house hold wire i had laying around. I took that ground wire and some nuts and bolts, Bolted the
ground points all through the wire harness to the copper ground wire. After connecting every thing together i hooked the ground and positive leads of the wire harness to a battery.
I also connected the OEM gas tank. I ran 8 feet of rubber fuel line to the engine fuel rail and added a few gallons of gas.
With only oil in the engine, I was able to cycle the clutch switch and using the OEM starter switch I pressed start! I got some clicking but no cranking. I played with it for a few more attempts. I got the same thing every time. the start switch LED would cycle when i pressed the start switch. NO cranking through. Eventually I placed the key fob right up against the PATS antenna. I learned from a video online that if the FOB battery is dead, holding the fob right against the antenna will make it work.

THE ENGINE RAN! right there on the pallet.

It ran well for about 20 seconds. using the OEM throttle I was able to rev the engine. Then it stalled out.
I was able to use my OBDII scan tool and clear codes and run it again to start seeing sensors and all sorts of things.
It was pretty cool!
Over several attempts the car would only run pretty well for 20 seconds and stall. I determined the fuel pump was priming the system when initialization but once the engine was running the fuel pump was not on.

I ordered the Ford factory wiring diagram book from online.
it's about 200 pages, Ford produces it. It has every wire and connector and most every circuit diagram all organised and put together. It's all specific to my donor 2015 Mustang GT

Using the book I quickly determined that there is not a fuel pressure sensor on the engine fuel rail as I had assumed. There is also not a pressure sensor in the gas tank. I had thought the sensor was in the tank. the wiring diagrams show it about 12 inches from the tank. inline.
I am missing this sensor and the fuel line. I found the connector on teh wire harness where it goes.
I ordered the sensor from RockAuto online.
I was not able to find the correct sensor anywhere local. The car is too new for anyone to have a part listing.

I should see the sensor in a few days.

Mean while, Time to give this wire harness a much needed hair cut!

lots of the chassis wire harness systems could be removed.
thing like the power seats
mood lighting
power locks and windows and mirrors
all the GPS and stereo stuff.

With the factory wiring diagrams in hand laid out the whole harness on the garage floor.

using two friend some nail clipping scissors and an old race seat, I spent several hours carefully cutting the harness tape and removing all the looming from the harness to expose all the wires.

77636
77637
77638
77639
77640
77641
77642

as you can see we made it pretty far through all the wiring.

my initial idea was to lay the harness on a sheet of plywood. it proved to be WAY to big for that to work.

q4stix

12-10-2017, 09:33 PM

You're far more ambitious with the wiring than I am! Good work on it and great use of the seat haha.

Do you own your own NC mill?

Dlirium

12-11-2017, 01:58 PM

I've been considering different rivet / powder coating options as I wait for my coupe delivery (schedule for Feb 18). Odd the things that occupy your time once one is actually on order! I appreciate the attention to detail on your choices, and may copy / plagiarize! :-)

Presto51

12-12-2017, 01:08 PM

Very nice build, but I must say that your garage is WAY too clean, don't how you work in that environment :cool:

Keep up the great work

Ron

nkw8181

12-19-2017, 02:43 PM

Looking good! Keep up the good work! I am curious about the PS and AC issue. I will have both as well but haven't received either yet. What hits?

forcefed1

12-22-2017, 06:46 AM

I have been making steady progress.

first let me say that after an estimated 50 man hours. the OEM ford mustang GT wiring harness WILL NOT be a good option.

I got about 50% through cutting wires, I tested the harness. the engine still ran.
So i got confident and cut a bunch more wires and even played with installing the harness as you will see in the photos.

I cut too many and im getting NOTHING.
I started RECONNECTING some modules and still had nothing.
I can say this for lessons learned.
If i were to attempt this again, or if anyone else wants to try it. You will need to plan to keep the BMS module. the 15 model cars need it to start because of the key fobs. I was able to thin off most of the chassis wires before having any problems.
I started and the end of the wires and worked backwards. I looked up each connector and every wire on that connector and choose if I was going to cut the wire. this is not the best way to go. in hind sight. most all the wires do go. and since I only need the wire not the connector on the end, Identification of the wires to keep and the start of the circuit and clipping all the rest is the way to go.

all finished I only had about 10 wires left from teh circuits leaving the BMS.

If anyone wants to attempt this.
1 Buy the book from ford
2 Plan to keep most all the wires under the hood part of the harness.
3 strip back the tape on the harness leaving the BMS about 2'
4 identify the wires you want to KEEP
5 unplug teh modules you think you can remove.
6 verify the engine works still
7 start cutting wires one at a time you think you want to remove and start then engine every 5 or so.

plan to have a pile of crap you have to hide in the car some place. the main fuse panel and BMS, the fuel pump control module and the fuel pump and pressure switch and of course the ECU at a minimum.

For me it was the space problem with keeping the extra large modules that killed it. Once I started laying the harness in the car, I could not figure out a clean way to package everything. I will have AC in my car. and heat. so hiding all those modules near the engine but not in plain sight got REAL HARD.

Then after spending a few hours trying to solve the problem of "which wire do i need to reconnect" and seriously looking at shortening EVERY wire left to clean up the mess. Then still having a big ball of crap from the modules left over...

I threw in the towel and called Jegs for the ford performance controls package. That was always my backup plan. I just wanted to prove that this was a bad option for me first. I also wanted to prove that it COULD be done. and for those who like wiring diagrams and soldering and dont mind the unclean install and extra complexity. GO FOR IT!

here are some photos showing how far I got.
as you can tel there was a pile of stuff still left to install.
I did a TEMP layout under the dash area to start routing things.
once i got it all hooked up for the engine to run again. I was not pleased.
I was also not pleased when the engine didn't start after several hours of testing with my meter I concluded the bus which tested to still be connected in all loops, was not doing what it wanted.

78086

78087

78088

78089

78090

Erik W. Treves

12-22-2017, 08:17 AM

I have that T-shirt unfortunately. While we are there you might want to look at the AEM system.... it IS more expensive...BUT... if you ever need to re program the ECU it will be cheaper and WAY less complicated.... having to do over again myself.... AEM!

Dlirium

12-22-2017, 04:24 PM

Erik W. Treves

12-23-2017, 05:07 PM

Call VeryCoolParts.com

you can get info on

http://aemelectronics.com/products/programmable-engine-management-systems/infinity-ecu/crate-motor-efi-solutions

forcefed1

12-28-2017, 07:27 AM

Great timing Erik.
I purchased a ford performance coyote controls pack.
I dont really feel like i got much for the money especially given that i have all the same parts already on the floor. I'm just struggling to make them talk.

12 years ago I had an AEM standalone system and worked with in an MKIV supra. It was a very well engineered system with lots of options. I spent countless evenings plowing through datalogs tweaking things. back then i didnt see any limitations. today its likely even more over the top.

Ill go that route too.

Plus it gives me the option of easily working with other systems like your instruments.

Higgybulin

12-28-2017, 07:48 AM

Did you take any pics of the front brake brackets you made up?
Higgy

edwardb

12-28-2017, 07:53 AM

You may want to take a closer look before going that way. At least know what you're getting into. You mention you have a 2015 Coyote motor from Mustang GT. That's the Gen 2 Coyote. AEM's website only talks about the 2011-2014 Coyote. They're quite different. Digging a little deeper into some AEM forum posts, at least as of several months ago they don't directly support the 2015+ Coyote. Some pretty deep workarounds or part changing options are described.

forcefed1

12-28-2017, 08:18 AM

I figured I would post another update.

I am missing parts all over the place to continue work on the mechanics. I have had the Kit about 7 weeks now and not one of the backordered parts has arrived.

Im still missing my steering rack and PS pump and mounts.
Radiator mount brackets
Rear suspension A armes
Exhaust
Header bolts
fuel tank pump mounts
Heat and AC...
4
plus a slew of other parts.

With so many parts missing, I lost momentum and started to loose motivation. NOW I have a week off from work and it's real cold out. Great time to work on my winter project right.
I switched gears to work on the body stuff.

I have not identified a shop to do the body and paint for me. From what I am seeing from others 2-3 months wait is standard.
Im looking for a shop that can do small & local car show quality paint and body work. In the past years I have done repair and restoration work myself including the paint and body work. Im too hard on my own work to enjoy the car once i'm finished. I find with body work I stare at the minor imperfections. and If i made them i know right where to stare. It's unsatisfying as the years go by. I plan to drive this car on the road a bunch. I am not looking to over complicate things with the color so candy coats and pearl top coats are not the direction I'm looking to go. BUT i do have detailed eye for very nice paint and body work. I personally do color sanding and polishing and very fine detailing of my other cars and i enjoy that part.

If anyone has a body shop they recommend, Let me know. Price is less important to me than quality and on time delivery. I dont mind it taking a few months but if you say 2 months 4-5 kills it for me.

SO, I switched things up and i'm working on getting the body ready for paint NOW. this should shrink the build time by a few months a hope.

My current plan for completion is June 1 2018. I would like to drive the car for a few months while the weather is nice this year. Hmm.... Sounds like I just set a date. It's not a deadline just a projection...

I got the rear on no-problem.

Then came the nose.
The nose took me about 6 hours to set and rough trim. Then another 6 to final set and install the latches. I installed the gas shocks right away. I was surprised how much it pushed the nose forward. I didn't have enough adjustment left in the joints to take that much out.
I would guess the gas shocks pushed the nose gap open 3/8 of an inch.

I ended up removing the shocks and the pivot mounts. I milled the slots in the pivot mounts deeper. after a few more hours and playing with placement of bumpers in the right areas, I'm real happy with how it is laying.
All the curves on the back of the nose are matching up with the body very well. The pontoon gap is matching up nicely. I sanded in my 3/16 gap on the nose and rounded the edges.
I powdercoated all the rear hatch and door brackets.

Today I'm working on the doors

78254

78255

78256

78257
as you can see here i shaved too much from the curved region I need to build up about 3/16" through a 12" region on this side. BUT that's it!

I plan to build it up with resin and chopped cloth.

78258

In order to get the drivers side front pontoon to line up I had to shim up the front door area of the main body.
I had originally adjusted the front heim pivots until they were out of travel on that side. but then the curves were not matching where the body comes together.
several times i removed the front Heim joints and used jack stands to set the nose where it wanted to be in a relaxed state. There just wasn't enough travel

I ended up shaving very little from the passenger side of the nose and 1/2 inch from the drivers side before the gap at the pontoon matched the wheel arch in the nose.
78259

forcefed1

12-28-2017, 08:23 AM

Erik W. Treves

12-28-2017, 09:51 AM

THat's pretty much what I had to do... in order to get my nose centered or extremely close was I had to push the pass side body as far forward on the A-pillar as far as it would go....then I standing on the passenger side door opening I had to "shove" the body over to the driver's side. I then put 1 self tapper in that side pontoon... Moving over to the driver's side... I pushed that side aft about 1/4 - 1/2 inch and then added a spacer UNDER the pontoon. You will want to put the rubber bumpers on there to make sure it will all line up after paint...and to keep the hood from chipping the paint while it shifts around driving

I put one rubber bumper directly under the latch to give the body a place to press against so it doesn't shift around. You may find that the Passenger side U-bolt cannot be lowered enough at this point... I ended up re-welding a plate on there.. but FRR snap-on car had an off-set plate they made that did the job nicely... not sure the production cars are fixed.. but the beta car had a small issue here.

for the rubber bumpers.. this is what I did and my gaps are pretty nice:

3 bumpers along the horizontal
1 Bumper on the curve (one on each side)
2 on the pontoon (one under the latch and one at the wheel arch where the pontoon ends.

I also put 6 of those bumpers in the opening for the rear glass to hold up the glass and to "pinch" it in place so it didn't shift around while driving.... initially I only had rubber seal, but it compressed and then the glass started to squeak against the paint and body... I can't stand squeaks! after the bumpers went in place... no more squeaks and the glass has a really nice "click" when it closes and feel SHUT and not just closed.

FWIW anyway.

As far the AEM... the only difference in the '14 to '15 that I saw is the ECU plug in which can be overcome by not using the plug and play harness... mechanically the engines are the same in the mind of the ECU... we were actually going to do this on my car but received the ECU too late... would have meant "de-wiring" the Ford ECU and harness out of the car... unfortunately I FULLY INTEGRATED the harness and it would have been a mess to go back and pull that all out given the time I had left. - I would do some research as was suggested...and then decide... but the sensors are the same- only difference is the coil connections changed.. but you an swap the coils out....ask me how I know :)

edwardb

12-28-2017, 05:38 PM

As far the AEM... the only difference in the '14 to '15 that I saw is the ECU plug in which can be overcome by not using the plug and play harness... mechanically the engines are the same in the mind of the ECU... we were actually going to do this on my car but received the ECU too late... would have meant "de-wiring" the Ford ECU and harness out of the car... unfortunately I FULLY INTEGRATED the harness and it would have been a mess to go back and pull that all out given the time I had left. - I would do some research as was suggested...and then decide... but the sensors are the same- only difference is the coil connections changed.. but you an swap the coils out....ask me how I know :)

I don't remotely claim to have all the answers. But looks like it's a little more complicated than only incompatible connectors. Cams are different, phasers are different, IMRC added to the Gen 2, just to name three. Phasers and IMRC can be locked out if you want to go that way. Just depends on what you want and how much you want to put into it. Especially since AEM doesn't seem to be directly supporting the Gen 2 right now. They better hurry. The Gen 3 crate is supposed to be out sometime in 2018, and it's got a whole bunch more changes. They've been in 2018 Mustangs for some months now.

For a neophyte like me, plug and play with the Ford electronics was the way to go. It works, runs great out of the box, they helped me when I needed it, and when I decided to do a custom tune, there were numerous options. But nothing I would ever attempt on my own. Especially not bolt on twin turbos, even though it's the coolest thing ever. ;)

Erik W. Treves

12-28-2017, 06:59 PM

Lol...yeah I like to color outside the lines... All I know is that wayne was hours from installing it in mine.... and then he saw how "neatly" I had integrated the ECU harness into the rest of the ron francis... so we opted the way we went... everything happens for a reason.... the 2018 motor I saw at PRI is a nice piece.... the motors are certainly getting more complicated.

forcefed1

12-29-2017, 11:50 PM

I got several hours in yesterday and several more today. Not rockstar days in progress! The doors are both installed they fit up very well in the end just took some time. Like others the rear bottom of the passenger side door sticks out a little so it will need a little more work with the sander before paint.

I hate how the inside of the hinge area looks so unfinished. I would love to figure out a way to trim that all out.

does anyone have any suggestions?
Ill post some pictures tomorrow of where I ended up. I will say this thought the doors sure don't open too much. I have never see anyone elses car though. nothing seems wrong just less of an opening than modern cars made for overweight americans!

Erik W. Treves

12-30-2017, 08:08 AM

yeah send some pictures... I had to massage the upper part of the door hinge to open more ... I still could have gone more to really get it too open... also while you are there make sure you look at the latch pin.... is it long enough to engage the latch?

q4stix

12-30-2017, 11:37 PM

I don't remotely claim to have all the answers. But looks like it's a little more complicated than only incompatible connectors. Cams are different, phasers are different, IMRC added to the Gen 2, just to name three. Phasers and IMRC can be locked out if you want to go that way. Just depends on what you want and how much you want to put into it. Especially since AEM doesn't seem to be directly supporting the Gen 2 right now. They better hurry. The Gen 3 crate is supposed to be out sometime in 2018, and it's got a whole bunch more changes. They've been in 2018 Mustangs for some months now.

That sums up the changes well. I totally agree they're missing small, incremental learning opportunities that will leave them behind when the Gen 3 engine arrives. Seems silly to me.

@forcefed1 and @Erik W. Treves,
You can look at my build thread and at the Infinity thread on the other forum where I've been posting what I've found out about using the AEM Infinity on the newer engine. I got all the phasers to actuate but mid lock exhaust cams need to be unlocked right when the engine starts with a set cam angle which makes the idle higher and rougher than the Ford ECU logic (AEM told me they had no plans to change their logic even though I sent them how it could be implemented for both Gen 1 and Gen 2 seamlessly). The 2011-2014 engine harness can be used for everything but the CMCV which AEM doesn't support but I plan to control with one of their output channels and additional wiring.

forcefed1

01-17-2018, 10:19 PM

It's been several weeks since i posted.
I have been steadily piddling away.
Im still waiting on lots of parts from factory five. the rear A armes and steering rack holding me back the most.

I decided to go ahead and set the rest of the body. The rear hatch is installed. and the DOORS.
next i moved into some custom fabricated items.
the transmission mount is fabricated and installed.
Im working on making some rear bins for the hatch area. I wanted one that could store sunglasses registration and little things like that.

here are some photos.

79432794337943479435

The doors took some time but they fit up very well. I will need to add 1/8" or so of material to the passenger bottom lip for about 1/3 of the length.
I also need to add about 1/8" Of material to one 8" long section of the nose where the gap is too large on the driver side.
Overall the shape fit up very well. lots of little tweaking and shimming. I am impresses with how little body work I will need to make it all fit very nice.

forcefed1

01-17-2018, 10:22 PM

Here are some photos
of the rear transmission mount I made

7943679437

and some upside down pictures of it installed.
I was able to use the FFR steel plate but I will need longer carriage bolts and i lowered it a little.

7944079441

forcefed1

01-17-2018, 10:24 PM

I also made these nose ramps to help the nose roll on and off the U bolt latches.
They are adjustable and work very well to allow the wheels in the nose latch bracket something to roll on and off of.

79438

Here it is installed. It also works well to tighten the play in the latch mechanism.
79442

forcefed1

01-17-2018, 10:26 PM

Jkviper

01-17-2018, 10:33 PM

The body panel alignment looks great!

forcefed1

02-12-2018, 12:01 AM

Time for another update.

I FINALLY got my rear IRS armes from FFR
so the rest of the rear suspension is together and the brakes and clutch are bled.
Now i have a roller! I was told buy a roadster builder once that a project like this will teach you patience. I had no idea FFR would be the one teaching it to me.
Im hoping to get the exhaust soon and the steering components.

I crafted some rear storage bins. the larger one is also my battery tray.

807858078680787

the floor will still be flat i have doors that open to expose the bins.

my corbeau seats arrived. They FIT GREAT! I sat in them for a while. I really like the feel and support.
I am 6'2" 195# with the pedals adjusted lower and the smaller steering wheel from the GTM, I think it's all going to come together for the interrior.

80788

Here's the billet brake clutch fluid reservoir. I was going to use the FFR supplied ones but when I called to order a third one, they no longer had a matching one. I plan to powdercoat this billet one. The caps will be body colored and I will laser them.
I have 2 SST FFR units if anyone wants one so they can have matching ones. PM me.

80789

forcefed1

02-12-2018, 12:27 AM

Since I have a roller I was able to measure for my wheels. I decided to go with some forgestar F14 deep concave wheels. It took me quite a while to get it all figured out. As soon as I thought I had the diameters and thickness and offsets, I couldn't find many tires.
Then I went back to the drawing board. In the end I went with 19x12 rear tires. 18x10 front . There are far more 335x35 rear tires in 19 than 18" I wanted a tire that filled the wheel wells and was not a skilly black doughnut. The wheels are on order I should have them in a bout 5 weeks. looks like I'll be mounting toyo R888 tires. I have not run these before.

also now that I have a roller I trial fit the front aero and splitter. THE SPLITTER IS AWSOME! What a cool piece!
80790

I also ordered my rear wing. Now I need to weld some mounts on the frame.
I cant decide if I should paint the mounts and wing.
Maybe Ill paint the end caps of the wing and the mounts body color. and perhaps leave the wing carbon OR do the stripes only on the wing.

Because I plan to leave the nose installed, I designed an integrated air jack system. I have always thought these are COOL in GT racing. they are a PITA for normal road cars as teh mounting locations are not easy to get to.
I designed a system to bolt right up to the frame of the Coupe no welding. The aluminum air cylinders I designed will have 12" stroke. The body of the cylinder fits right into the bolt on mounts connecting to the frame. The whole system operates on 400PSI air. With that much pressure I can lift 3400#. that should be plenty. I found a small air tank that can hold enough air to lift the whole car 5 times. The whole jack system weighs about 25# including this tank.
I plan to mount the tank in the rear fender well behind the tire of the car and charge it from a big tank that will stay in my garage.

80791

Or I see I can buy an 800PSI air compressor on ebay for 400$

Whatever I do the plan is when at the track and car shows or whatever... I have the onboard air for a few lifts. It'll also make changing tires and brakes real easy.

Jkviper

02-12-2018, 12:28 AM

forcefed1

02-12-2018, 12:38 AM

Last thing I did this weekend was begin the body work. I cleaned all the wax out of the seams with a wax and grease chemical cleaner. then, I grind out most of the body panel joints I used 4.5" angle grinder with a 80 grit sanding disk. Actually I spend quite a few hours on the joints of the nose this weekend. . What a MESS! I got the majority of the nose filled back in with about 4 coats of Rage Gold filler. I spent quite a while with the sanding block. I don't really have much experience with fiberglass but I have a little with metal body cars. I will say this, I used more body filler this weekend than ever before on my cars. However the overall lineup of the FFR joints is pretty good if you asked me. I could have had it much worse from waht I have seen on early model FFR cars.

it's late so I will have to get some photos posted of that whole process some other time.

I am paying someone to do the body work and paint the car for me. the more I can do now the less time it will take him. Unless i make it worse.

q4stix

02-12-2018, 01:28 PM

How on earth did I miss the Jan 17th update after all this time? Oy.
Nice work on the body panels and the custom parts you're making. Makes me want to go straight to a NC setup on my mill (well, aside from the expense). The hood latch parts are a cool take on getting everything to line up and roll smoothly.

The seat looks good as well. Is there any gap on the sides of the seat? Is it the height you'll mount it, like mounting brackets, tilt, etc? How is the clearance to the roll bar? My head seems so close to the bar at all times

Keep going, I want to see what other touches you add to the build!

Tarmac

02-12-2018, 04:50 PM

Excellent Fab skills+++A

forcefed1

02-12-2018, 10:48 PM

It sure is a fun way to spend the winter huh guys!

JKviper. for the steering wheel, I fabricated an adapter to connect to a quick release hub. I will be running a center button. I don"t have it installed here.
808308083180832

I have intentions of doing a custom dash and door panels to match the diamond pattern in the seats. the dash will stay simple but put the main larger gauges inset to the front

The seats are reclining. they are corbeau RRS

https://corbeau.com/reclining-seats/sportline-rrs.html

I'm mounting them straight to the floor. There is no need for the reclining. I suppose the recline lets you set your preferred angle.

they sit very low. however I still have my head in the roll bars.

q4stix... i tried the NC route with a knee mill years ago... ran it through MachV and built the whole system myself. Be careful its a slippery slope. In no time you will be looking for better surface finishes and higher spindle speeds more rigidity and a cabinet to hold the mess.

forcefed1

02-12-2018, 11:04 PM

I started the body work.
Here are a few photos of the nose.

Before getting started I snapped a few photos for the DMV paperwork.
Anyone got any tips for getting this thing registered in VA.
I figured id start the process now and as teh body work progresses I can finish it and have a plate sooner.
80833

80834
first my son and I cleaned all the wax out of the seams with a wire brush little picks and wax and grease remover.

Then I ground down the gel coat at the seams. And put the first several coats of rage gold.
80835 80836 80840
808378083880839

Jkviper

02-13-2018, 05:32 AM

John Dol

02-13-2018, 11:59 AM

Very jealous of the seat room in the new gen 3. Would've liked some of those seats, they look great!

John

forcefed1

02-25-2018, 10:28 PM

In the last two weeks I focused on getting the body ready for paint.
I used about 3/4 gallon of Rage Gold. 10 sheet of 80 Grit and 1 sheet of 36 grit. I"m very happy with how straight everything is. This is by far the MOST body work i have ever done. I would say it took me about 60 hours. Several of those hours were spent being very picky about the smoothness and admiring the overall shape i was finishing. This weekend, I cut the hood vents out and prepared the front splitter. I will make my own top vents. I bought some of the aluminum mesh from FFR. I designed the vent holes in CAD. I will laser cut the male and female molds to press the aluminum so it is formed and flush like the side vents.

overall the body lined up pretty well. the worst area by far is the rear window vents area where that all glues together. I had lots of shaping to do there on both sides. The hood had a dip in it at the seam. the doors needed almost an 1/8 filler at the bottom middle so they would line up straight with the rocker covers shape. There is almost NO filler on the front and back of the door but the middle just could not be adjusted to line up. Now the whole thing is show quality type lines and joints.

yesterday I pushed the car out of the garage and hosed IT off. YEAH!! then I wiped down all the pink walls and cabinets vacuumed and washed the floor.

The only body step to finish is the final mounting of the front splitter and the frame cutouts for the rear wing. The splitter has been shaped and trimmed and the inside sanded smooth. I plan to mount it with button head screws. I will glass some plates inside the nose with 1/4 - 20 holes tapped.

I would like to make the aero stuff removable. To protect the paint on the nose I plan to have Xpel clear bra material on both the splitter inside and the Nose.

Heres some photos. Ill take a few outside showing the "ready for slick sand" shots this week.

81585 81586 81587 81588 81589

81590 81591 81592 8159381594

forcefed1

02-25-2018, 10:32 PM

81595 81596 81597 81598 81599

John Dol

02-26-2018, 12:48 PM

Nice progress!
Does the gen 3 hood have an inner liner? Looking at the holes in the top of the hood I see two layers.

Thanks,

John

nkw8181

02-26-2018, 03:35 PM

Looking great!

forcefed1

03-04-2018, 06:45 PM

yes the gen 3 hood has a pretty nice inner liner.
It also has wheel wells that connect to the hood. The inner liner is glossy fiberglass. It should clean up for paint nicely.

forcefed1

03-11-2018, 11:16 PM

Im looking at changing up the factory dash.
Im 6'2" and the steering wheel is right on the dash for my arms to feel right.

I was looking at moving the gauges into the dash on a cluster maybe like 2-3" total with sort of a brow...

after looking closely at other cars from the same period. I think I would like to mostly leave it close to the way it is. Though I want more room for my hands.

I am thinking of moving the entire dash forward. The whole thing can go closer to the windshield and make the whole car feel bigger say 3" forward. It will require remaking the whole aluminum panel and welding in a new mount.

while I have thought of this dash and interior stuff, I looked over my AC parts... I don't like the dash vents. I designed some new ones that closely match the Forgestar F14 concave wheels i ordered.
they are eyeball shaped and made from aluminum. I made the center section of the first one.

John Dol

03-12-2018, 11:51 AM

forcefed,

Speaking from a Gen 2 background, there isn't a lot of room behind the gauges once you install ducting for AC. Not sure if that is the same for the Gen 3 or not, just thought I'd throw it out there for consideration.

John

forcefed1

03-13-2018, 09:54 PM

A closer look at the dash has me thinking of all sorts of options. Most of which I just don't have the space to pull off or they get complicated pretty fast and the look is not clean... HMMM more research of photos.

meanwhile,
Here are the center hood vents and dash AC vents I made.

I used a laser to cut out the hood vent plywood patterns. I left a .1" offset to allow the expanded metal room. I bought the same metal FFR supplies for the side vent.

For the air vents, I made a model of my wheels and then shrank it down. They are a concave Forgestar F14 wheel. I cut out the sphere and concave part on the lathe. Next i used a Wire EDM to remove all the center material.

82533 82534 82535 82536 82537

John Dol

03-14-2018, 10:27 AM

Forcefed,

I used the same method for my banana vents in the back. Works well!
Love those air vents, that's slick!

John

Dlirium

03-17-2018, 12:09 AM

Time for another update.

Here's the billet brake clutch fluid reservoir. I was going to use the FFR supplied ones but when I called to order a third one, they no longer had a matching one. I plan to powdercoat this billet one. The caps will be body colored and I will laser them.

80789

Force fed -I must know where I can get those fluid reservoirs! Please post info!

Thx

forcefed1

03-17-2018, 07:13 AM

Force fed -I must know where I can get those fluid reservoirs! Please post info!

Thx

I was designing one similar to this that I was going to manufacture. Then I found this one at scottshotrods.com!

Dlirium

03-17-2018, 10:04 AM

I was designing one similar to this that I was going to manufacture. Then I found this one at scottshotrods.com!

Thank you sir!

nkw8181

03-18-2018, 12:33 AM

forcefed1

03-25-2018, 07:40 AM

Just note once you get the hoses back there there isn't much restate. my .02

did you mean "room" i dont understand "restate"

forcefed1

03-25-2018, 07:54 AM

I thought i would post another quick update.

Big news is My painter called... he can spray the first coat of primer Tuesday!!!! so pulling the body off and getting it over to him. He will be spraying then we will block sand it together. then likely spray it again and block it out again. THEN PAINT.
should all happen pretty quickly since I will be taking some time off from work to help.
Most of MY attention is now focused on the interior. I am making a completely custom dash. The inspiration has come from a early 60'S Jaguar Etype.
there are several restored ones that I like.
other inspiration came from forum members here.
83021 83022

I have build a cardboard template it all worked in cardboard. Now i'm designing the real deal in CAD so i can laser cut the panels.

I am still waiting on my wheels to arrive. they were ordered in Jan... should only be another week or 2. once they come I can finally drive the car around. the wheels I am rolling it around on in teh photos do not clear my brake rotors. To date I have run the car with my foot on the brake on the lift!!! its a start! Im not in a hurry to GO-cart the car. more to keep it all moving.

I also THINK i have decided on a COLOR combination!!!! For this month at least.

forcefed1

04-08-2018, 09:51 PM

Things continue to move along.
Body has been covered in slick sand and blocked out to 180. My body guy has been letting me help him at his shop which keeps it pretty fun. He feels way more detail than my hands can. He has been teaching me along the way. while blocking to 180 we exposed several spots that were not shaped correctly. Those spots are all fixed. The second coat of slick sand is on. This week we will focus on blocking the entire body down to 400 grit before sealer.

Back in my shop. I have been focusing on the design of the dash. this has proven to be a time consuming but fun part of the project. I first made several templates in cardboard. Then I made 3D models in CAD. once I liked what I had I laser cut some 1/4" thick plywood sheet to try the whole thing out. Im not quite there but i am very close. the lower vents need some tweaking to make room for air hoses on the back side.

I also finished the design of the air vents. Nick was able to make me a prototype on the lathe before leaving for the weekend.

forcefed1

04-08-2018, 10:17 PM

heres some photos

83852

83853

I choose to tilt the dash more than FFR so i cut out their bar and welded my own in. my bar is at the same height but about 4" forward. this gives me more room do put the steering wheel back away from me.
83854

83855

I choose to add an oil temperature gauge to the existing FFR set.

There will be a total of 4 AC vents which each replicate my wheels. the three gauges by the steering wheel are set back 1.3 inches. they work out very well so I can see right through the steering wheel at them.

83856

83857

for the top of the dash I plan to make an overhang a bit.

I still need to finish the design of my billet switches and make those. then I will install them into the dash.

the final dash will be wrapped in leather like padding. im going to make the inset part of the dash from billet. But the floor of it may be some other material. not sure on that yet.

Erik W. Treves

04-09-2018, 07:17 AM

The Dash and the Shifter look great... nice piece you have there! Looks like it will work nice and the position is good. I did notice the tunnel top is drilled for rivets.... Have you thought about make the tunnel top removable? The interior looks like its well on it's way to be first class... would hate to have to rip into any covering if you ever need to in the trans area or worst case pull the tranny.

Dlirium

04-09-2018, 09:06 AM

Dlirium

04-09-2018, 09:10 AM

There will be a total of 4 AC vents which each replicate my wheels.

LOVE where you are going with this!! I'm VERY interested to see what where you plan to hide the A/C controls. The stock control set from FFR would look somewhat out of place, no?

brent

forcefed1

04-09-2018, 10:05 PM

Thanks Eric! I can easily tap those rivet holes 10-32-to make that panel a good access panel for the future. Good idea. It's certainly fun melding all the ideas i see on the other builds and from previous cars into my own creation!

Dlirium... as for the AC controls, I was planning to build custom ones. I'm considering just designing a board and the dials and all and creating what I want. It is a very simple circuit. I will machine the dials to fit the car.

Im putting the last touches on the toggle button design tonight. I'm hoping to have the prototypes made by the end of the week.

nkw8181

04-10-2018, 03:44 PM

I will say to plan ahead on your ac hoses. There isn't much room back behind the dash.

John Dol

04-10-2018, 04:34 PM

Looks great!
The golden rule of cardboard:”if it works in cardboard you can make it out of anything else”.

John

forcefed1

04-15-2018, 11:04 PM

Big news this week is that the body is ready for sealer and should be getting painted late this week.
I also got test spray samples of 7 colors. FINALLY choose my color. Hands down of the 7 finalists it's the one I was looking for all along.

I'm actually not ready for it.
I thought for sure by the time I got to this point I would have been waiting for a month or so all finished. But NOPE. Im still messing around with the dashboard and installing the AC. the Air jack system I made is completely fabricated. Ready for trial fit and then powder coating. LOTS AND LOTS of custom details to finish up before I set the body on! Im so excited to see it installed though. Ill have to DO IT before the interior details are finished. Its not like the body holds all that back much.

forcefed1

04-16-2018, 10:06 PM

For everyone wondering. My shifter consists of two parts I designed and then made in my cnc machine shop. Those parts BOLT directly to the stock mt-82 mustang transmission shifter mount points Mine is as SHORT AS IT GETS. It uses the stock mustang shift lever, knob,rubber boot pivot bushing and lockout.
The shift pattern is just like stock. Position feels very good. Throw works well with my dash and racing seat. My design pivots the shift ball forward some to help with my long arms. Im 6'2" 195#

for the rest of the tranny if you look back you will see my mount that bolts right to the tranny but uses a urethane I found at autozone. I returned my driveshaft to FFR and made an adapter for the tranny. The adapter removed the factory rubber doughnut and then the driveshaft uses a common end on both sides. I had a custom driveshaft made locally.

I also had to make the clutch hydraulic. not a big deal just ordered a 7/8 willwood master cylinder. The large master cuts down the throw of the pedal and the pedal is not too heavy. this helps me again since im tall. It allowed me to adjust the clutch farther back and still have enough throw to work in the tranny.

T6Ted

04-24-2018, 09:07 PM

then I finished the front brake brackets.
the brackets allow me to use the factory five spindles and the 2015 ford brakes. I am using the front 4 piston 14" rotors and calipers

7943979443

I still have to tap the lower ear hole with a 12 x 1.75 mm tap .
But you get the idea of how it fits. I also need to replace the lower ball joint boot as I tore it while removing the spindle to cut off the ear.
I later learned after finishing the design and fitting it up, I didn't need to remove the spindle.
79444

I have been lurking around reading as much as I can on building a coupe to hopefully pull the trigger this winter and start next spring and because of the 2015+ 14" brakes being very affordable I have been looking for an adapter bracket. Would you be willing to make another set sometime in the future. Just trying to plan ahead. Thanks and awesome build thread. Love the custom CNC work.

forcefed1

04-29-2018, 05:47 PM

Hi ted,
Id be happy to make all kinds of stuff here for other forum members.

Just PM me.

forcefed1

05-05-2018, 07:58 AM

HUGE PROGRESS

PAINT is ready for reassembly.

just started getting parts back on teh car to reassemble.

color started off as Chevy Laguna blue pearl on teh 14-16 corvettes. We took out all the pearl and made it heavy metallic which darkened it some and defiantly made it change in the light!

The stripes are Ford Magnetic. a modern ford color.

The wheels are Gunmetal from Forgestar. Super Deep Concave 12" wide

forcefed1

05-05-2018, 08:05 AM

forcefed1

05-05-2018, 08:07 AM

more photos. of body work progress

went with dark grey sealer.

Did three coats total of slick sand. Final finish was a wet sand with 400 grit using guidecoat to find pinholes and small scratch marks.
my painter let me participate in the entire process which I really enjoyed learning.

85421

85422

85423

85424

installed heat shield before the headliner was glued in place.

85425

also installed the quad mat from breeze in the floor as well as sound deadening and head shield all over the place.

85426

forcefed1

05-05-2018, 08:15 AM

Here is a teaser photo to see the color close up.

85427

after painting I got the back of the car loaded on my truck and headed home for installation.

I LOVE THE COLORS!! Such a hard decision! Easily the hardest part of the build.
Im so pleased with the final outcome.
because we "engineered" the blue. i was not sure how it would look.

85428

John Dol

05-05-2018, 08:34 AM

Awesome Forcefed!
Exiting times ahead for reassembly. I'm in the midst of that now, and knowing that I'm putting it together for the last time is very satisfying.

John

q4stix

05-06-2018, 05:36 PM

That looks really sharp! I'm looking forward to seeing the assembled result!

forcefed1

05-07-2018, 11:56 AM

Thanks Guys.

I all my free time this weekend lining things up and putting in carpeting.

it's very rewarding. Every hour you can back up and SEE the progress. it's all coming together real nice. Panel fitment it perfect!
such an exciting time.

forcefed1

05-14-2018, 09:16 PM

Lots of progress on the reassembly!!!!!

I finally drove it out into the day light. I'm very pleased with how all the metallic flake POPS in the sun. Plenty of details to finish but the large stuff is all mounted and lining up well! Only large piece of the body is the front splitter.

The state came out and inspected it today. I should be driving it in a week.

Most of the remaining work is in the inside.

Im real happy with how it's turning out.

85750

85751

85752

85753

forcefed1

05-14-2018, 09:19 PM

85754

85755

85756

85757

forcefed1

05-14-2018, 09:29 PM

Right now the entire car is back at the body shop for color sanding.

Once I get it back in a day or two Ill finish all the details and wire up the lights.

I still have several wheel well liner panels to install and all the vent covers.

Then Ill figure out the air jacks.

John Dol

05-15-2018, 07:44 AM

Very cool, looks fast sitting still!

John

forcefed1

05-29-2018, 10:02 PM

Here's a few more photos.

The wing is installed and the cross bracing is finished. it's nice and stiff now!!
you can tell there is a solid aluminum bar at the top of the black brackets tying both sides together just below the fiberglass.

Just off off that bar I attached the 1/4" threaded rods. at first i planned on tie rod ends. but in the end I just bent the rods into hooks at the bottom and drew them tight with the bolts on the top.
I really like How tight the wing remains to the back of the car. not hanging off the rear or poking out the back panel. as you can see in one photo. im as close as I can get to the hatch when opening.

You can also see the small slits in the fiberglass for the wing brackets. The brackets are each two pieces. They connect just under the fiberglass.
I made all this so I could remove the wing one day and install the stock spoiler right over the slits.

86436

86437

86438

86446

forcefed1

05-29-2018, 10:23 PM

next on the details list was the hatch.

The stock hatch latch was very underwhelming. So, I designed a new one. I pulled rank in the shop and Nick milled one out for me. so I could finish that part of the install.

Here's the stock one and mine together. mine bolts with 3 10-32 button screws from teh back side. No exposed fasteners and as you can see fills the ledge well latched perfect once installed. also since it capture the latch on the sides it holds the hatch glass centered side to side

88078

88079

forcefed1

05-29-2018, 10:31 PM

With the hatch fitting nice and tight. I moved attention to the front nose.

I installed the new sheetmetal. for the fender wells.

The stock nose pins were NOT going to work. they sort of worked and then the pin would hit the flat on the bottom of the cavity and you had to shove the nose to get it to finish closing.

I designed and Nick made a new cavity for the existing pin to fit up tighter and have a nicer taper. the newvsetup puts the nose right into the ideal spot for panel gap every time I open and close it!

check it out. this shows the stock one and the new one I made.86447

86448

forcefed1

05-29-2018, 10:46 PM

With the nose secured and lining up well, I turned my attention to paint protection film and rock chip protection. I installed Xpel film in key areas around the bottom and front of the car.

I also installed the inner wheel well liners all over. All of that went pretty well. The liners took a little while. they fit up real well in the end. I also got all the mesh inserts installed.

all of this cam out well. To hold the hood top inserts in place while the adhesive setup, I had some thick black foam I could stuff into the opening in the hood. I may cut some more of it to leave installed and totally fill in the gap there.

let see if I can find some photos.

Straversi

05-30-2018, 09:09 AM

Beautiful!
-Steve

Bob Brandle

06-23-2018, 02:03 PM

Bob Brandle

06-24-2018, 07:44 PM

Forcefed1, How about a few photos from the rear, dead rear and at some angles to showing off the 335s on the 19" Forgestar wheels and fitments to the body, etc.
I'm liking the look so far.
Bob

Jacob McCrea

06-26-2018, 07:25 AM

Lots to like here; thanks for taking the time to share it all.

forcefed1

06-27-2018, 10:23 PM

The wheels are a tight fit! tires even tighter. I saw some recent photos where FFR had to step their wheels outside the fenders on the R car to make the wheels clear. I did not want that look.
What I did instead was ordered the wheels with as much offset as forgestar would make. with just the wheels everything clears. But not now that im driving and loading things down. Then I still had to make 3/8 thick spacers and set chassis ride height to 4.5". I also had to cut out a part of the tube frame. It's one of the diagonal braces that runs just behind the seats. . I tried modifying it to make it thinner at first . It still rubbed at 130 MPH. I removed it all together. With this and the wing, I'm still seeing the inside corner of the tires rubbing just a little on the frame. I polished the frame location with a grinder and sanding wheel. Now the tire does not appear to get any damage and I painted the frame so I can monitor rubbing. If i push the car in tight turns at speed, Im still seeing a little tiny bit of rubbing. I can add more wheel spacer and still stay under the fenders so that's my plan next. Another 1/8" to the spacer should do it.

forcefed1

06-27-2018, 10:40 PM

Forcefed1,
I'm really enjoying your Gen 3 Coupe build with so many nice equipment and design choices as well as their implementation. Nice to have a CNC Machine shop too!!
Just last Saturday, I placed my order for a Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe and so my journey started for real.

Question regarding your seat choice, Corbeau Sportline RRS. I'm surprised it fits with the side reclining seat hinge and controls. I see it apparently does, but how tight a fit? Any compromises or alterations to make it fit? Will you actually be able to use the reclining to any degree in the Coupe?
I'm considering the Corbeau Sportline Evolution X, that Edwardb has fit into his Gen 3 Coupe.
Did you compare the two seats? Pros and Cons?

Second question regards your choice of wheels, the Forgestar F14. I've been admiring these wheels for a number of years, but really didn't have a car to put them on. Would 18s fit on the Coupe both front and rear if I were to use front tires in the 245-275 range and rears at 315?
My FFR Order currently has the 18" Replica Halibrands, but I'd consider the Forgestar F14s for a bit more modern look, while still looking somewhat like the Halibrands. I have a month to 6 weeks to decide.

I probably have more compliments on and questions about your build and car, but will post them later.

Bob Build Log soon to be posted: "Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build"

BOB i went with these corbeau RRS seats because of the quilted pattern stitched in them. I preferred the way that looked and My door panels I'm working on now have that pattern also.
The seats fit right in. I did have to remove the 5 point harness and make my own mount locations to get a little more clearance. Im 6"2 195#. I installed the seats right to the floor. I put them as far back as they go and I made spacers for the front to tilt the bottom cution some more. The recline function of the seat does not get touched. I mounted the seats as far back as I could once I set my preferred angle with the recline. the car is TIGHT to say the least.

I have also cut a frame bar out of the foot box to the left of the clutch to give me MUCH more foot room for my left foot. This and a narrower pedal work real well. I also have a dead peddal on the back left corner which is a nice addition I use it all the time. I also have a smaller removable steering wheel to get into and out of the car easier. worth noting. the smaller wheel can probably go a little larger. I bought the leather wheel FFR made for the GTM. I like the way it feels but the power steering is sensitive. I have lots of other sports cars this one is hard to get used to with the steering being so sensitive. a larger wheel will help. I'm going to try that out. I also installed a custom dash that is about 4" farther back and tilted. All these simple little things added up to a MUCH more fitting car to drive.

I have about 500 miles on the odometer so far. I can say for sure I am VERY pleased with all the mods and the car is a blast to drive. ergonomically it works quite well now!

forcefed1

06-27-2018, 10:46 PM

I have a BUNCH of recent photos to post. stay tuned and I will post up some details of the wheels tires and some other good stuff i have been able to make.

Bob Brandle

06-28-2018, 01:33 AM

Forcefed1, Thanks for your detailed answers, modification descriptions and comments, all so valuable and appreciated! Looking forward to your photos and future discussions. Bob

forcefed1

06-28-2018, 09:39 PM

now that summer is here progress has been slowed down a whole lot.
I have been doing all sorts of details. The AC is blowing cold it helps a lot. the controls for it are not finished. Im just running it wide open for now. I also made some mud flaps. I bought some 1/4" thick mud flap material from a trucker supply store online and cut it up into the pattern I wanted. In the photos I only have 3 installed as I'm not quite finished. So often i get a project 94% finished and just work with it like that for a long time.

The exterior is now nearly finished. All I lack is to powdercoat the brake calipers. side view mirrors and back up lighting
for teh side view mirrors im using teh FFR sport mirrors but ive designed some mount bracket that allow me to install them on eh top of teh door. more photos to come if people want to see that.

87976

87977

87978

The grass is 5" tall in the above photos the car is not as low as it looks.

87979

87980

here's those hella driving lights.

87981
back tires
87982
front tires. vents are installed in side and top of hood.
87983
Heres a few recent photos now that the splitter is finished. I also found some very very bright driving beam Hella HID lights that fit nicely. They are the 4000Xi HID lights with custom mount brackets.

I cleaned the car up the other day and took a few photos in the yard enjoy.

forcefed1

06-28-2018, 09:47 PM

heres a few more
88070

88071

88072

88073

this shows the metallic flake in the air dam side skirts

88074
good wing clearance on the hatch glass shot

88075

engine bay
88076

88077

forcefed1

06-28-2018, 09:57 PM

still working on the dash but painted it black so it blends in until i cover it in leather.
88081

all the lavashield is installed on the foot boxes and working very well. it was a tight fit doing this after the engine is in.
to anyone going this route. do it before the engine is in.
88082

You can see here a little of the new wheel well liners from FFR in the coupe upgrades sheet metal kit. And my air jacks I made.
the jacks are installed but I have not plumbed them in.

88083

Bob Brandle

06-28-2018, 11:22 PM

Forcefed1, Thanks for the additional photos!! But the photos in your 7:47PM and 7:57PM posts can't be seen, at least by me. Invalid address message.
Bob

GSides9

06-29-2018, 01:35 PM

You will never get out of a gas station. The car looks awesome. The splitter, wing and paint colors change the look so much that it is almost hard to recognize. So you'll get to explain it all. (you would have to anyway)

Congrats, Glen

forcefed1

06-29-2018, 05:52 PM

Ill have to fix those.

Thanks Gsides9!
it's been such a fun build.

John Dol

06-29-2018, 08:30 PM

Awesome looking ride!!

John

forcefed1

06-29-2018, 08:40 PM

OK I fixed those broken photo attachments.

Thanks Gsides9!

It's been such a fun build I could definitely see something similar some other year.

Today after work, I worked on inside door panels. I made a pull handle from wood to verify my design before I go with aluminum. Im pretty happy with that. I also ordered leather swatches. With a little luck the mirror mounts will finish this weekend and Ill get those mounted to the doors.

I decided to go with door poppers. Future plans include glass windows. I don't want to install outside handles. I plan to hide a little switch in the wheel well. Anti theft is not a concern. All these interior challenges take me much longer. I have never done any interior work. This will be a good learning experience.

Bob Brandle

06-29-2018, 10:32 PM

Forcefed1,
All of yesterday's photos are now appearing just fine. Thanks!!
Some wonderful looking ideas and construction you have there in your Coupe!!

Good idea regarding the hidden "outside" door latch. Why disturb the clean door when you can have a latch/door opening button hidden. Can't wait to see your design.

Regarding the door window in glass. There was a newly built Gen 2 Coupe by Andrew Freesh, that debuted at the Huntington Beach Cruise-In last month (April-2018) that had a custom glass fixed door window. If you can live with a fixed window (which I'm thinking that I can), it really looked slick!!
I've got some detail photos of it if you're interested. P.S., that Coupe was also in a dark blue with silver/gray dual stripes.....outlined with a thin red line on the outer edges of the dual stripes!!!
I'd like to contact Andrew myself about his car, but I cannot locate him anywhere in the Factory Five website or Forums, other than him being listed as winning 2018 Huntington Beach Cruise-In Best of Show Runner-Up.
Below are a few photos of his car's door windows.

Revised 7-5-2018

Bob

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88410&d=1530849405

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88409&d=1530849405

forcefed1

07-10-2018, 09:52 PM

WOW those windows look GREAT i like them a lot! NO track at all. I like that I wonder how rigid it is?
I also like how he integrated the rear side windows right into the body.

forcefed1

07-10-2018, 10:19 PM

I managed to work on a few more details.
as always here are some more photos.
88712

I really like the sport mirrors. I never liked how low on the door they had to be mounted. I made some aluminum mirror brackets then powder coated them gloss black. It's a nice detail for sure.
88713

I laser cut some rubber mount pads too 88714

88715

88716

88717

I also made an aluminum center button to finish out the steering wheel.
All the billet aluminum parts inside the car will be removed and hardcoat anodized grey.
I bought some leather hides to wrap all the interior panels i'm fabricating in leather.

The door panels are ready to be wrapped. The inset part will get diamond quilted.

88718

88719

88720
The door handles will stay billet aluminum. the inside is hogged out to save weight. Im planning to fill it with foam and leather padding.

I installed door popper solenoids as I preferred that look over the aluminum handles I made. It kept the door panel cleaner and opens on the outside with a hidden switch once i get windows installed..
The door sills are installed too.

I should be doing all the leather work in the next few weeks as I learn how.
let me know what you guys think.

Jimtmich

07-11-2018, 11:37 AM

Great finishing touches, and they all work well together. Nice Job.

John Dol

07-11-2018, 11:53 AM

I'd like to contact Andrew myself about his car, but I cannot locate him anywhere in the Factory Five website or Forums, other than him being listed as winning 2018 Huntington Beach Cruise-In Best of Show Runner-Up.
Below are a few photos of his car's door windows.

Bob,

Look for Spaceclam on the FFCARS forum

John

Bob Brandle

07-13-2018, 11:59 PM

John,

THANKS!!, Found the "Spaceclam Reveal" thread, etc. That's him, etc.

Forcefed1, the frameless fixed door glass on Spaceclam's Coupe was as solid as can be!

Bob

P100DHG

10-12-2018, 06:52 PM

Does this have the race stance or street stance on the front end suspension settings?

TheBabyBadger

10-13-2018, 01:28 AM

WOW! KILLING ME!

I wanna drive mine! Never mind the engine isn't even in it! Even worse, I'm back and forth on the spoiler and front bumper... I LOVE the way yours executed, still undecided which direction I will go. I'm caught between PURE and RIGHTEOUS... Couple questions:

1. Can you make more of the locators for the hood and trunk? PM me, I love them. Clean!
2. CTS-V brakes up front? I'm running SVE Cobras. Worked great on an 87 Race car but kinda ugly. What did the conversion consist of, how much invested?
3. I keep noticing my windshield doesn't have the black insert around the edge to hide the urethane (bothers me), but my rear glass does... is something wrong? Should I contact FFR?

GORGEOUS car and I LOVE the custom touches! Great job!

forcefed1

10-18-2018, 10:45 PM

The car is on the street stance. Chassis is set at a height of 4.5".

2 the front brakes are 2016 mustang gt (non performance package) Cost me two bracket that i fabricated, and 300$ for the used set of calipers and rotors from a junk yard. look back through the thread you will see where and how i made them work.

forcefed1

10-26-2018, 09:15 PM

It's raining. So i finally have a little time to show you guys some of the details I have been working on.

I bought a full cow hide of leather.
my mother learned to sew it and I learned to make panels cover them in thin foam and then stretch the stitched leather over them.

Here are a few photos from during the process.

After shaping the panels with wood I bought contact cement and sprayed it on the interior panels with an air gun. I purchased some 1/8" thick interior foam online stretched it over the wood panels to prepare for the leather.

96406 96407 96408

After letting the glue dry on the foam over night. I then did the same process again with leather and worked it over all the edges.

96409 96408 96410 96411

Now that I'm all finished Ill take a few photos in the sun tomorrow with it all together.

forcefed1

10-26-2018, 09:17 PM

Here are a couple of photos with all the billet parts i made trial fit before anodizing them.

96412 96413

Some of you may recall I did away with the billet door pulls i fabricated for the interior here's the pulls I replaced them with installed. I also installed door opening solenoids
which operate from that flush mounted button.

96414

forcefed1

10-26-2018, 09:34 PM

I originally decided i wanted modern billet switches with a real slick unique paddle. I bought the guts for the switches from digikey.com.
here's the original billet paddles I designed to work with those switch guts. Similar to the ford GT paddles.

96415 96418

I had designed a cover plate for the whole cluster. Before fabricating the cover plate. I changed my mind on the entire switch. For rev 2, I bought new guts, redesigned and refabricated a new layout with new billet switches in it. This time the cover plate had finger separators the new paddles were a shape i liked more. Each switch has a lens on the tip of it with a light. The lens on the tip lights up amber when the head lights are on and the lens red when I toggle the switch.

here is a picture of the billet paddels after I grained them and anodized them
96419 96420

I designed and fabricated the cover plate and toggle switches from billet.

96416 96417

Here's the finish product after Anodizing grey and lasering the labels.

96421

here's the amber and red lights

96422

John Dol

10-26-2018, 09:35 PM

Go mom!

Nice update, my DD has the diamond patterns and the blue stitching. I like it!

John

forcefed1

10-27-2018, 09:39 PM

Sun came out this morning. I got a few good pictures. I also got to drive about 250 miles today! WHAT A REWARDING RIDE!!!

96446 the billet part around the shifter is waiting for a lid on teh small tray in it then it too will get Anodized grey to match the rest of the stuff.

Take a look at the finished dash
96447 96448

Im real pleases with the top "brow" with the small bump up and the seam in teh leather with the blue stitching. It all pulled together nicely.

forcefed1

10-27-2018, 09:48 PM

Some of your guys will really like this touch.

I was able to fabricate some door sills. For a nice detail. I lasered an engineer drawing views of the front back and side of the car. I then assembled all the specifications for MY BUILD as notes on teh drawing and lasered all that right into the sills. I did this to both sides. This way when people are looking at it they can always read all about it right there while looking at it.

96488

forcefed1

10-27-2018, 09:53 PM

I also powdercoated the calipers black. I really struggled for what color to do here. In the end I decided the whole car had so many interesting things to look at WHY call attention to the brakes? They are just 4 piston brembo 14" brakes. All kinds of cars have that these days. So all i did was engrave SHELBY DAYTONA on them and then I powdercoated clear over them to seal in the engraving. this way the attention stays on the body and the rest of teh car that no one else has and other real interesting special touches.

96489 96490

forcefed1

10-27-2018, 09:56 PM

96491 96454 96492

Man what a rewarding experience building this car has been!

I only have a little more to do. The final details are almost wrapped up!

I head to VIR Thursday and Friday of this week to get some laps in.

Straversi

10-28-2018, 12:59 AM

Your machined billet details are amazing. A few photos show error and won’t open. Love to see the detail in the lazered door sills. Good decision on the brake calipers. Lots of expensive production cars with high contrast brake calipers and I always wonder why they want me looking at their brakes.
-Steve

Bob Brandle

11-02-2018, 01:24 PM

I really like your Coupe's interior design and finishing touches!!! Congratulations!!! It'll all provide food for thought for my Gen 3 Coupe build that's still under two months since receipt of the full kit.

forcefed1

11-03-2018, 08:43 AM

I just got home from a 2 day HPDE at VIR. I did NOT build my coupe to be a track rat, But, I did build it to be a very capable street car. I have been doing HPDE events for 15 years. I also race a BMW 328 in the champ car series. I got to say WOW WHAT A CAPABLE CAR. And the SOUND of that 2nd gen coyote with headers and FFR pipes WOW. I got SO much excitement from SO many people about the cars looks and just how awesome it was. People were making erotic gestures. corner workers pumping their fists in the air and cheering on the cool down lap. People on the side giving me thumbs up taking video.

Everyone that was there who came to look the car over with all the details and the build quality, could not believe that i was taking it on the track. I was NOT there to run the car hard and find the limits. It would be a HORRIBLE thing to brush the tire wall or worse because I pushed too deep into a braking zone or tested the aero through a turn.

Having said all this, WOW what a capable car. It is so easy to drive FAST. It is so THRILLING to drive FAST. FFR has made such a capable platform! Running Toyo R888s 325x 19 rear 275 x 18 front it was very balanced. I ran tire pressures of 31F 35R cold and that resulted in a nice balanced wear and feel. Im running a FFR front sway bar only on the middle stiff setting. I am running 2016 stock mustang GT 4 piston front brakes with 14" stock rotors and Hawk street HP 5.0 pads. The rear brakes are 2016 mustang GT performance pack rear stock brakes. the engine is a stock 2016 coyote with a BAMA tune. Running on 93 octane.

My rear wing was set to 3 deg AOA the front splitter at 2.5" Top speed with out pushing it was 144 mph. I never once pieced one good lap together. I constantly kept saying "dont push it let off and let people pass, the tire wall doesn't give a damn how many hours you have in this thing!" I intentionally stayed disciplined not to run it hard and risk running out of talent.

NOW there are a few things I will improve.
#1 my gas pedal arm is short. My toe actuates the pedal near the top of the arm. I am 6'2" with 12.5 shoes. this was the single biggest complaint. I struggled to feather the throttle in sweeping turns. with the arm on teh pedal being so short. a little push from my toe resulted in lots of power. I will be making a custom coyote pedal and electronics to fix this. a longer pedal arm would have more resolution and allow more precise control of power. some of the sweeping turns were not smooth.

#2 I would change.
I had more chassis roll than I wanted. I would try to add the rear sway bar and see if I can balance the front and rear for neutral handling. I removed it all together to guarantee it would understeer.

# 3 fuel pickup was horrible. I would run out of fuel in the turns with over 1/2 a tank full. I had to top off every session. I'm running the stock FFR tank and a mustang pickup and pump.