Interference between Wilwood E-Brake and 2015 IRS Coil-Over

[progmgr1]

There is a threaded stud (pivot axle for the emergency brake) sticking out the back of the E-Brake housing that directly interferes with the coil spring on the 2015 Mustang IRS. Is it ok to just cut off that stud at the back of the nut? Has anyone else run into this issue, or do I have something installed wrong? The photos on the Wilwood instruction sheet are not the clearest.
Thanks,
Keith
(Sorry, I couldn't get the photo to upload for some reason?)

[edwardb]

I'm assuming the Wilwood brakes you're speaking of for the 2015+ IRS are the ones with a separate brake and e-brake caliper. I'm not sure of exactly where you're describing, but I didn't have any interference issues with mine. I don't have any really great pictures and can't easily take any new ones since it's completed. Do any of these help? These show the higher end Koni's that came with the Anniversary Roadster. But I don't think the standard ones should be any different.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3716_zpsfxavffqz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3716_zpsfxavffqz.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3734_zpsxkogimrf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3734_zpsxkogimrf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg.html)

[1932]

Mine don't hit at ride height, but moved the shock spacers to help.

[progmgr1]

Thanks for the fast responses! You're the guys I hoped to hear from about this issue.

Looks like the Roadster chassis is very different from the '33 in this area, so the issue doesn't show up there. I'm using QA1 shocks (from a non-supporting vendor), but they don't appear to be any bigger than the stock Koni's? However, everything is very close together. I've got less than 1/4" clearance between the spring and E-Brake arms even ignoring the protruding stud. It's a good thing that parts don't move around very much in the IRS. (Pictures taken at full droop, but it doesn't look like it will be any different at normal ride height.)

Sorry for the poor photos. This is my first attempt to posting pictures on the forum and I'm just learning how to use the editing tools.

Keith

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[BigB]

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Just for reference this is what mine looks like. I have the stock shocks that are sent with the kit.

[BigB]

To me it looks like the shock will push away and at an angle to give clearance once its on the ground.

[1932]

I called tony @ FFR when i thought i had this problem and they went out and looked at a car , and when on ground at ride height it is all good. IT has been some time but my cables would not fit into holder without some work, hope that is good now.

[edwardb]

Oops. Sorry, missed that your question was for a '33 Hot Rod. Need to watch that more closely! And you're right, there are certainly differences. Doesn't seem that trimming some length of that bolt would be an issue. Also good recommendation to check the clearance closer to ride height.

[progmgr1]

My shocks looked more vertical than what I saw in BigB's photo, so I stared at the IRS for a while and finally realized that I had the threaded inserts on the Toe Link and Upper Control Arm run all the way in. Rotating both adjusters a few turns walked the stud out of the way and gave a lot more clearance between the E-Brake levers and the springs. I also used a floor jack to move the spindle up closer to the eventual ride height and confirmed that there was a little clearance between the springs and stud. I wouldn't be comfortable running it that close when it's finally on the street, but it's good enough to go forward with the build and can be modified later if necessary.

Thanks for all the helpful comments and photos! Your support and inspiration make this build a lot more fun.

Keith

[Bgardner]

Keith

Just getting going also on my 33 with IRS and Wilwood brakes. Did you end up cutting that stud?

My e-brake cables also do not seem to be long enough to route as per instructions, how did you make out with cables?

Bob

[progmgr1]

Keith

Just getting going also on my 33 with IRS and Wilwood brakes. Did you end up cutting that stud?

My e-brake cables also do not seem to be long enough to route as per instructions, how did you make out with cables?

Bob

Sorry, I didn't look at the forums for a few days and missed your post.

No, I did not cut the stud and do not recommend doing so. I later realized that you need that part to hold onto when adjusting the e-brake.

Route the cables under the differential, not over them. They fit a lot better that way.

Keith

[Bgardner]

I have finally got my ride sitting on ground and ride height adjusted, just for future info a picture showing clearance.96397