Black&Copper - 33 Hot Rod #1028

[AJT '33]

So its finally time to go online and start posting about my build thread, I look forward to all your sage advice and words of wisdom as I officially start my build this coming Sunday. My shop I built is ready, the parts are all here (the balance on their way very soon) and its time as the weather just turned and winter and that ugly white stuff is on its way. I have an amazing setup and very lucky my son is a Mechanic so he is looking forward to getting this underway as well (even though he is not a fan of doing the inventory of everything. I will detail my build at a later date, looking forward to an official start!!
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[wallace18]

Congrats! Nice shop.

[scottiec]

That looks awesome.

[erlihemi]

I like your Roof truss design. I did one like that in Virginia with no questions asked. In NY I had to get a P.E. Stamped snow load calc to build it. My last one I used attic trusses and put my smaller "toys" up stairs.
Black n Copper will look nice.

[JOP33]

Great set-up! Good luck.

[AJT '33]

TY, I wanted to have max vertical height. We have truss manufacturers that are required to do all that work, its a requirement in Canada.

[RoadRacer]

Oh, to have that much space! That's a great way to start. Following along..

[AJT '33]

Oh, to have that much space! That's a great way to start. Following along..
Mind you its filling up really quickly as most of you builders already know!!!

[WIS89]

What a great work space!! Very nice job on the garage!

Good luck as you start your build. Like some others have already said, black and copper will look pretty cool.

I know it will be fun building with your son. I hope you get to enjoy each other's company a great deal while you put her together!

Regards,

Steve

[AJT '33]

What a great work space!! Very nice job on the garage!

Good luck as you start your build. Like some others have already said, black and copper will look pretty cool.

I know it will be fun building with your son. I hope you get to enjoy each other's company a great deal while you put her together!

Regards,

Steve

Hey Steve, thanks! We are looking forward to this a lot. I think variations of clean copper, burnt copper in key areas will really make it pop. Steampunk but a light version, at least for this one!!

[AJT '33]

We got started, placed the frame in its location for the next little while and set it up on jack stands for now. My son and I got the TV and stereo system in and were ready to go!76453764547645576456

[erlihemi]

Annealed copper sheet over the firewall aluminum would look cool. Not sure if I would try counter sunk rivets in the aluminum and then some solid copper rivets or use common fasteners like button heads for both. I thought about it on mine, but with the copperish gold valve covers I wanted it all becomes one copper blob. Similar to using black wrinkle and then wondering why it doesn't show in the pictures. Steampunk makes me think of solid copper rivets hammered in the sheet. A lot of opportunity. Reddish alloy, green patina, dark, polished, etc. You can use some cool etchant tricks also. maybe a little silver or nickel overlay. You may be able to electroplate the aluminum?? I haven't looked at that. Somebody has done extensive copper on a 33. maybe you have seen that one for inspiration. It wouldn't be that hard to make a good size tank and do it in your garage. Well maybe not your brand new nice garage. Stuff turns magically green all around you when playing with chemicals and copper...

[CVOBill]

Congrats on the new build!

[AJT '33]

Annealed copper sheet over the firewall aluminum would look cool. Not sure if I would try counter sunk rivets in the aluminum and then some solid copper rivets or use common fasteners like button heads for both. I thought about it on mine, but with the copperish gold valve covers I wanted it all becomes one copper blob. Similar to using black wrinkle and then wondering why it doesn't show in the pictures. Steampunk makes me think of solid copper rivets hammered in the sheet. A lot of opportunity. Reddish alloy, green patina, dark, polished, etc. You can use some cool etchant tricks also. maybe a little silver or nickel overlay. You may be able to electroplate the aluminum?? I haven't looked at that. Somebody has done extensive copper on a 33. maybe you have seen that one for inspiration. It wouldn't be that hard to make a good size tank and do it in your garage. Well maybe not your brand new nice garage. Stuff turns magically green all around you when playing with chemicals and copper...
Excellent Idea! I was looking to see how I could do something with that aluminum back wall, I actually have zinc rich primer and was going to possibly paint it with VHT Burnt Copper like the bare metal parts and some of the "exposed" black powder coated steel. I was on the wall because i did not want to overwhelm the look with copper. The other option is to stud on a sheet of brass or bronze for a color and finish effect. I had found copper rivets that would need to be peaned in place with a hammer, but again a lot of work to get a decent finish. Options are still open, need to get there first then decide. All input is deeply appreciated as this rolls out.

[TDSapp]

AJT,

Here is a link to a story in Hot Rod about a "Steampunk" FFR Hot Rod.


http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1933-hot-rod-powered-by-510-inch-big-block-ford/


This is probably the one that Erlihemi was talking about.




Also in photo #1 in your last post is that you or your son in the photo?

[AJT '33]

AJT,
Here is a link to a story in Hot Rod about a "Steampunk" FFR Hot Rod.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1933-hot-rod-powered-by-510-inch-big-block-ford/
This is probably the one that Erlihemi was talking about.
Also in photo #1 in your last post is that you or your son in the photo?

Hey Tim, I knew of that build, it gave me a lot to look at for my build.
Yup that's my son in the picture, he had just gotten his hair cut off a little over a week ago as part of a campaign to support cancer research that the garage where he works (Hyundai Dealership) was putting on. He at least now knows how it will feel when he gets my age!!

[TDSapp]

AJT,

Have you decided on the power train yet? Or at least have a direction that you are thinking about?

[AJT '33]

AJT,

Have you decided on the power train yet? Or at least have a direction that you are thinking about?

I have a 5L Coyote Engine with a Tremek TKO600 tranny. The engine actually came out of a 2013 Ford F150, I have had it for a couple years now. I am building a motor start stand (i have all the parts) and will be getting it mounted and hooked up in parallel as I want to hear the heartbeat before it gets transplanted into the frame. Its been sitting in the garage in my house since i had it giving the crank a partial turn every so often, all the liquids have been removed.
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[TDSapp]

Nice... Sounds like you have a great motor to go in it.


Tim

[erlihemi]

There are some nice powder coats in copper also. The problem with powder coat is I can never get it to match the similar shade in paint. I have used VHT and I am happy with it. I use one of the VHT satin golds for my Desoto stuff and its sorta copperish. Of course if you mix real copper work with some powder coat and some paint you need to be aware of finish. I use satin clear when I cheat on different finishes. Gloss will amplify any differences in shade. With some test samples and a little time you could really do a lot with it though. Copper is a little pricey, but, it would be so cool to show the craftsmanship.

Enjoy!

[AJT '33]

There are some nice powder coats in copper also. The problem with powder coat is I can never get it to match the similar shade in paint. I have used VHT and I am happy with it. I use one of the VHT satin golds for my Desoto stuff and its sorta copperish. Of course if you mix real copper work with some powder coat and some paint you need to be aware of finish. I use satin clear when I cheat on different finishes. Gloss will amplify any differences in shade. With some test samples and a little time you could really do a lot with it though. Copper is a little pricey, but, it would be so cool to show the craftsmanship.

Enjoy!

I have looked into powder coating however I am not sure of the colors and then the ability to touch up. As I am not afraid of painting cars or their components (have painted a couple cars and hydroplane racing boats already in my life) I don't think it gives me much of an advantage to powder coat versus painting, plus I don't have to beg someone to do the work, I just go ahead and get it done. Regardless all this input is great as "Johnny 5" would say!!!

[AJT '33]

OK, Setting up and finally able to see some progress in the fact that we are now ready to start to add "color" to the parts that are raw and some that are already powder coated black. Still on the fence if I should recoat the rear control arms Burnt Copper like the front arms since they are already powder coated black. Any opinions on this?? I have my tables setup and will get the other side of my lift setup for the painting, have a few questions for the veterans
1) Has anyone painted over the powder coating and if so what was the prep to the surface of the powder coat?
2) For the brake calipers, they're going to be Burnt Copper, other than a real good scrub down with the proper solvents, any recommendations for surface prep beyond that? I don't think I want to sand blast as I have an etching primer for the VHT paint, opinions?
3) Raw steel parts with the pinions already mounted, how did you prep and clean the area around the boot? Once cleaned any special tapes to prevent any paint or sandblast from getting in/under the boot?

Please ping in as this will be my mission over the next couple weeks, then we start the true assembly of the toy.

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[Olli]

I painted over the powder coated arms. Powder coat makes for a very good base. Wet sand and/or scuff pad 400-600 wet. Sealer, base , clear. I use HoK products.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/ollijo/3320A-Arms2020misc20001_zps8s01ddxd.jpg

Olli

[AJT '33]

I painted over the powder coated arms. Powder coat makes for a very good base. Wet sand and/or scuff pad 400-600 wet. Sealer, base , clear. I use HoK products.

Olli

Excellent!! That is what we were thinking as well. TY!

[JOP33]

OK, Setting up and finally able to see some progress in the fact that we are now ready to start to add "color" to the parts that are raw and some that are already powder coated black. Still on the fence if I should recoat the rear control arms Burnt Copper like the front arms since they are already powder coated black. Any opinions on this?? I have my tables setup and will get the other side of my lift setup for the painting, have a few questions for the veterans
1) Has anyone painted over the powder coating and if so what was the prep to the surface of the powder coat?
2) For the brake calipers, they're going to be Burnt Copper, other than a real good scrub down with the proper solvents, any recommendations for surface prep beyond that? I don't think I want to sand blast as I have an etching primer for the VHT paint, opinions?
3) Raw steel parts with the pinions already mounted, how did you prep and clean the area around the boot? Once cleaned any special tapes to prevent any paint or sandblast from getting in/under the boot?

Please ping in as this will be my mission over the next couple weeks, then we start the true assembly of the toy.

7704777048770497705077051

A high temp tape is usually required for powder coating. If you are using someone to powder ask them to supply or just let them do it. We usually use several layers of duct tape to protect from blasting.

[AJT '33]

Well this weekend was big, paint parts sorted out and did a test paint on of the control arms to see if the burnt copper color is what I was envisioning. At first glance the color seems to be too orange, I will need to add a coat of clear to see how it comes out, hopefully it darkens a bot and the shine of the clear helps in making the pearl like finish pop out! Not the greatest pics, need to focus my phone better.

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[AJT '33]

Well after a little back and forth we decided that we were not happy with the initial look of the painted parts, they were not copper colored and too orangey. So I went to my paint supplier and chose two new colors that I felt would fit the bill.

The first, a lighter copper looked like a mildly aged/oxidized copper finish, started to paint the next piece but it bugged me that it was too light
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After it sitting there it started bugging me so I tried the darker color which I was going to use as an accent color and ended up using it as a base as it gave a better darker aged copper color. its hard to take a good picture but it fits MUCH better
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One thing I was very impressed with is these water based colors, having never use water based paint for a base color I was actually impressed how little paint you needed to lay down to achieve a consistent color base. the top coat clear can be a solvent or water base, As I understand from my supplier the solvent base gives a more brilliant shine without color sanding. The other great thing is my paint supplier can put the paint in an aerosol can for me which makes painting these small parts MUCH easier! Now to get all the control arms and calipers etc... painted to color so my son can start assembling!

[wallace18]

Looking good!

[progmgr1]

After it sitting there it started bugging me so I tried the darker color which I was going to use as an accent color and ended up using it as a base as it gave a better darker aged copper color. [/QUOTE]

I agree with your choice - the darker copper color looks great!

[AJT '33]

Hey Everyone, my 33 has a donor engine coming from a 2013 Ford F150. I have been told that I need to change the oil pan and the timing chain cover to one used from a 2011-2014 Mustang GT. I have no issues with the oil pan however when I look at the timing cover, I am not really sure why I would need to change what I have? I will have no AC (living in Canada we need heat more than we need cold air :)) and the alternator is going to be relocated so again I am not sure why I would need the pulley the GT cover has. I have been through the blogs and found one person who made a custom bracket so they did not change the cover (I have requested a pic) however is there anyone else out there in the FFR33 world that has experience with this? All your help is appreciated!!
Cover from Mustang GT, notice the bump with the thread for a pulley
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Picture of my engine front, notice no bump with idler thread.
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[AJT '33]

So the build itself is not advancing quickly as I am in the midst of painting various parts such as all the control arms, spindles, knuckles, differential etc... I may be going overboard for a personal build however I think that if we are going to build something that is "custom and our own" and doing it ALL ourselves (my son and I and of course my wife!) then going that extra length to make it sparkle is a big deal in my eyes. The down side of it all is its driving my son nuts as he has to wait for me to get all the prep and paint done and allow the finish to cure properly before we go ahead and re-assemble the control arms and other fittings (as a mechanic he wants to get into this as soon as possible!!) I think that if all goes well i will have all the required components to be painted, at this point, on the steering and drive train completed by Christmas (my gift to myself!! :D). Following are a few pictures of the stuff i have been painting and prepping:
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One thing I was very impressed with was the water based paints I am using from Dupont, its the CROMAX PRO WBC (http://products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us/en/dr/product/CromaxProBasecoat.html), my local supplier suggested it to me as they can put it in a spray can for me (SprayMax system) which makes it A LOT EASIER to apply and alleviate all that paint gun prep work. I am truly amazed at the results, with this system I can prime with a self etching primer, lightly smooth the straight surfaces, clean and apply the CROMAX base coat within an hour. I then wait 20-60 minutes to allow the base coat, which is water based, set completely. Once dry I can right away go ahead and apply the first clear coat (using the SpraMax systemhttp://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/1k-clear-coat/), wait 30 minutes for it to flash and set, then get a second coat on, I have found if I let the second coat set overnight and come back the next evening (as I'm doing this all at night after work, yup I have a real job as well) and apply the third and final coat i get the best shine with no color sanding or buffing. The nice thing about this system is that its made for professionals and the cure time is no more than 24-48hrs at a room temp of 65F minimum then it can be handled without issue (I still take great care regardless). I do let it cure however for a week regardless, I'm in no rush even if I can have it setup faster with an infrared heater. Again, the spray cans with these professional tips spray out EXACTLY like a spray gun, its very surprising and impressive.

That's where I sit as of now, lots of assembly will be happening and I will be able to share some of the progress during the holidays or just thereafter. Have a great Christmas and prosperous Happy New Year Everyone!!!

[CVOBill]

The parts are looking great, I like the idea of the paint in a spray can.

[AJT '33]

The parts are looking great, I like the idea of the paint in a spray can.

I was skeptical at first however since they are filling the cans with the same paint as you would spray normally its made life a heck of a lot easier while still allowing you to paint like a pro!
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[AJT '33]

So some more forward movement on the Assy of the front end. A few items to note, we needed to spread apart the tabs holding the control arms, they were too tight due to the powder coating (used the threaded rod and double nuts with washers technique someone suggested, work amazing!). As well when we placed the upper control arm the spread between the upper bushing of the arm were close to 1/8"-3/16" less than the gap between the tabs on the frame, the same was necessary for the lowers as well. I believe FFR needs to consider the gap with powder coating and tabs on the frame to allow for the powder coat thickness and recenter the tabs relative to the arms.
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As well, we fought a bit with our spindle in getting the nut on and torquing it to 100ft-lbs. there is just enough gap to get a 1/2" torque wrench with a socket in the gap. We also needed to use a pipe slipped over the shaft of the spindle to hold the spindle so my son could properly get the right torque. The next challenge will be getting the top nut on and figuring how to torque that nut! Any suggestions?
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We should have all the front end arms and brakes on by the weekend unless i decide to paint a few more parts that i currently did not want to do.

[RoadRacer]

Many people don't worry about torquing the castle nuts, they often need backing off a touch anyway to put the pin in. Mine were put on "tight" without a torque wrench. :)

[AJT '33]

OK, so my son and i have most of the front suspension in and moved on to the rear end. We took the upper control arm and mocked it up in place and we have a BIG PROBLEM, either the tabs on the frame have been installed in the worng location OR the fabricated arm that we received is the wrong one, see the following pictures:
7786077861778627786377864
Has anyone had this hap[pen to you on the new IRS suspension?? I have an email out to Dan at FFR but I was wondering if this is a frame error or not so if someone can take a look at theirs and take a measurement like we have in the pictures and tell me what they have? I am hoping that the arm has been misfabricated and its not a frame screw up and they can send me a new arm, however if its the frame then i am not sure what will happen. Any and all help is appreciated!!!

[AJT '33]

OK, so my son and i have most of the front suspension in and moved on to the rear end. We took the upper control arm and mocked it up in place and we have a BIG PROBLEM, either the tabs on the frame have been installed in the worng location OR the fabricated arm that we received is the wrong one, see the following pictures:
7786077861778627786377864
Has anyone had this hap[pen to you on the new IRS suspension?? I have an email out to Dan at FFR but I was wondering if this is a frame error or not so if someone can take a look at theirs and take a measurement like we have in the pictures and tell me what they have? I am hoping that the arm has been misfabricated and its not a frame screw up and they can send me a new arm, however if its the frame then i am not sure what will happen. Any and all help is appreciated!!!


Mystery solved, FFR sent a pair of Cobra rear upper control arms with my kit!! OOPS! They have a new pair being shipped today to me. Lesson learned... make sure you dry fit critical components BEFORE painting them!

[1932]

You know how they will look with your paint!

[RoadRacer]

Mystery solved, FFR sent a pair of Cobra rear upper control arms with my kit!! OOPS! They have a new pair being shipped today to me. Lesson learned... make sure you dry fit critical components BEFORE painting them!

Wow, good result! Well, good-ish I suppose. Yes, you should have test-fitted them, but that doesn't make it any less annoying :)

I was dreading hearing that the tabs were in the wrong place..

[AJT '33]

OK, so I may be getting ahead of myself here as I am trying to understand what is out there when it comes to cabin/defrosting heaters. I have seen a lot of setups where everyone is putting in the traditional heaters with AC integrated. However as i am in the Great White North and would rarely need AC as i would either have the hard top on for show or go naked with the top off which AC would do nothing for me. What i was wondering is if there is an inexpensive simple, small, heater I can throw some hot air down at our feet and a pair of vents for the windshield defrost? Are there options out there for all electric heat that don't take up too much under dash space as well? Is there something i can tear out of a scrapped vehicle that i can use as a heater that may be out there rather than an after market new one?

Looking to pre-plan here so anyone's input based on experience and practicality is deeply appreciated. TY!!!

[HVACMAN]

It has always been my understanding that you needed A/C along with heat to remove humidity from the inside air to prevent fogging on the inside of the windshield.

[DaveS53]

Vintage air, Southern air and old air products all sell heat/defrost units only. I would question the practicality of switching between the hard top and no top, with the need to mount the different windshield. I'd build the car one way or the other and leave it that way.

The need for the air conditioning portion of the system most often occurs when it's cold, but humid due to rain. Passengers also create internal humidity, but at least you're limited to only two. These system are crude compared to modern computer controlled units. All you do is turn the AC on about half way and then run the defrost to help reduce inside humidity. I drive my car in the Colorado winter and never needed the defroster, but I only take the car out on warmer days when there is no ice or snow on the roads. Rear wheel drive only cars really suck in the snow. I have used the defroster briefly when I drove in 45-50 degree rain, but I didn't bother to turn the AC on.

With the hard top, don't under estimate the need for AC, unless you like being hot and driving with the windows down. Aluminum floor and firewall panels conduct a lot more heat into the car than fiberglass, and there will also be a lot of heat coming through the hard top, unless you put a lot of effort into insulating it. Spray on products like Lizard Skin will not work miracles and neither will any of the dynamat type products. Even with less conductive fiberglass firewall and floor, sprayed with lizard skin, I added two layers of 1/4" closed sell neoprene foam under my carpet to reduce the heat load. The entire top of my car is also insulated with 3/4" core foam, most often used for building boat hulls.

[AJT '33]

Something to think about for sure... Right now the intent is to run the car with the hard top only however set it up in a way to allow the conversion to open top. We just don't know what we prefer right now which is why I got both. I would have gotten a rag top however I really did not like the look of any of the rag tops and their attachments at the windshields and in the area I live in (our nations capital great for politicians, sucks for anything like what I/we are doing) there is no one who can do this without going very far away to find someone. Maybe i will be able to find a good rag top and then stay with that and sell the hard top however the side windows would not work then, kind of crappy if you ask me. Regardless, will be looking into this a bit more for sure to see what is best, may end up with an AC unit after all, we'll see. Thanks all!

[CVOBill]

AJT, the convertible top and side curtains that Factory Five has is from Rod Tops, you have to buy it from F5 but its a really nice top in looks and quality. I love mine and just had a boot made by Rod Tops to store the top in on the car. Its not cheap but I think its worth it.7794077941

[AJT '33]

AJT, the convertible top and side curtains that Factory Five has is from Rod Tops, you have to buy it from F5 but its a really nice top in looks and quality. I love mine and just had a boot made by Rod Tops to store the top in on the car. Its not cheap but I think its worth it.7794077941

Could you take a picture at the windshield connection? I have seen wood blocking at that point and thought it looked chincy as a connection versus a hard mounted connection. Much appreciated!!

[CVOBill]

77987 If you zoom in on the top of the windshield frame you can see its an aluminum or steel mount, the front bow of the top is wood like most convertible tops like this.

[TDSapp]

the front bow of the top is wood like most convertible tops like this.

Bill can you get to the wood without the top connected? He might like it better if he could primer and paint it black to match the top.

[CVOBill]

Bill can you get to the wood without the top connected? He might like it better if he could primer and paint it black to match the top.

I'm sure you can take the wood out and paint it, I believe I remember someone on here that stained the wood for the top.

[AJT '33]

Well good progress this week in the end, I received the correct upper control arms from FFR and yes they are correct! So I got them prepped for paint, got them primed, base coated with color and 3 coats of clear. With the paint system that I have no need for color sanding and buffing, this system is killer! Also got my rear knuckles done as well.
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Once completed I was able to move on to the differential, now this was a beast and I needed to figure out how to be able to prime and prep it. Well looking around the shop it dawned on me that I am not taking advantage of my engine crane so I rigged up my rotator with a few bolts on the diff and voila, instant height adjustable diff sling! It actually worked out really well, would recommend to anyone else who need to detail theirs!
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Lots of assembly ahead over the holidays and then i move along to detailing my engine and putting together the engine start stand. Need to get this pony started and turn it into a stallion!!

Merry Christmas to everyone and a prosperous Happy new Year!!!

[CVOBill]

That looks great!! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[AJT '33]

Well yesterday was a very productive day, my son was assembling all the parts that I had previously painted inclusive of the differential. One item that has come up once we had it installed is how it is offset to the passenger side by approximately 3/4" as you can see in the picture.
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Has anyone else encountered this? Is this something to worry about? I will be once again asking FFR but really would like to see if this is consistent with other builds that have an IRS rear end. Much appreciated!!

[AJT '33]

Looking to see what other 33 owners with an IRS rear end have to say about this one. I posted on the Facebook site to see what other may have to say however I think the best spot is here with the other Hot Rod builders. My son assembled and installed the rear bearings calipers, disks etc... yesterday. In doing so he discovered that the pads sat about an eight inch high on the disk.
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Since the dis is trapped on the bearing it can only be turned concentrically. We trimmed the pad lips a bit to allow them to sit flush to the top however we were wondering if others had the same issue when installing their IRS rear end brakes?
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Here is a pic of the final products, they sit well however there is still a gap under the pad which we feel is normal as you cannot have a pad taller due to the pad sitting on the inside of the caliper on the calipers body.
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Hope everyone is enjoying their Christmas Holidays!!

[Tampa33Build]

Please post what FFR states about the IRS alignment. I noticed the same thing on my 33 yesterday while using a laser to align the body to the chassis.
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[AJT '33]

So I dropped a note to Tony Zullo at FFR and he confirmed that the offset is designed that way due to the differential design being offset. The key is to have the engine and the differential parallel in both the plan and profile views even if they are offset to each other, this way there is no differential motion of the drive shaft. There is a great post in the blogs on drive shaft phasing: "http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22798-U-Joint-Phasing-Video-amp-Why-It-Is-Important&highlight=drive+shaft+angle" this actually shows how important it is for the motor and differential to be aligned to each other, parallel in both plan and profile. That is why you see a lot of shimming of the trans mount to align the engine with the differential. We will be very careful with this when we setup the engine and differential alignment.

[DaveS53]

It is not desirable to have the driveshaft perfectly aligned with the trans and differential in both the horizontal and vertical planes. Some misalignment is needed to insure the rotation of the needle bearings in the u-joints. If the engine and trans are centered in the frame, but the pinion is offset toward the passenger side, there's usually nothing that can be done to correct that. If the offset is only 1/2" and the driveshaft has a decent length, like 30-40 inches, then the slight angle is usually ignored, since it's less than one degree.

[AJT '33]

It is not desirable to have the driveshaft perfectly aligned with the trans and differential in both the horizontal and vertical planes. Some misalignment is needed to insure the rotation of the needle bearings in the u-joints. If the engine and trans are centered in the frame, but the pinion is offset toward the passenger side, there's usually nothing that can be done to correct that. If the offset is only 1/2" and the driveshaft has a decent length, like 30-40 inches, then the slight angle is usually ignored, since it's less than one degree.

Hey Dave, very true, I got a note form Tony afterwards and he also recommended that there be a 2 degree differential in the profile view plane to make sure the universal joints do their job. Appreciate the insight!

[AJT '33]

Looking forward to getting the brake lines setup over the next couple weeks (Business travel will hold me back a bit!) so we can get into the wiring and the firewall painting and installation!!
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[AJT '33]

Have not posted in a little while as work takes precedent when trying to build and pay for a project like this. Thank god for a great son however, while we were away he was house sitting and low and behold got all the brake lines installed as well as marking and drilling the aluminum floor pans amongst getting little miscellaneous items completed. Decided to stick with the FFR supplied brake lines as its not my intent to drive it in wet weather. 7935579356 79352 79353 79354
He did a great job in hiding the lines along the frame! Next up is color sanding and polishing the firewall and getting that installed so we can finish the steering and he can start on wiring while i go ahead and prep the engine for color on the block, then assembly and prep to get it on the engine start stand!

[AJT '33]

Well last night was my first foray into the art of color sanding and polishing. I have done this before however never to the level of 3000/5000 sanding with polishing. After i was done I had a real appreciation of the work and the time it takes to make something shine.

I went from a nice "shiny" surface on the firewall (easier to test on this and repaint then a whole car!): 79409

To a nice high gloss shine on the firewall where i can really appreciate the effort made to do this: 79410 79411

All in all for my first real attempt at this I learned a lot, surface prep pre-paint is THE most important step, sanding and polishing to this level WILL show each and every surface wrinkle, material defect that you have. Adding an additional sanding primer and re-sanding WILL make a HUGE difference. You get one shot and its worth it when you see the result, cut corners and it will be in your face every time you look at the car or that area. Amazing how we still learn things, less stupid today than yesterday!

On to engine paint prepping!!!

[CVOBill]

Firewall looks great!!!

[AJT '33]

Well got the firewall riveted in, little bit of a challenge to make sure I didnt ding it in any way. so after doing that, twice, I ended up taking a piece of stiff cardboard, drilled a small hole, slid it over the rivet and made a temporary shield!
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End result with the Black head rivets looks fantastic!
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[RoadRacer]

Well got the firewall riveted in, little bit of a challenge to make sure I didnt ding it in any way. so after doing that, twice, I ended up taking a piece of stiff cardboard, drilled a small hole, slid it over the rivet and made a temporary shield!
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With all this great detail work (it does look amazing) I have to ask - are you going to drive this, or show it? No judgement, I love how different we all are!

[AJT '33]

With all this great detail work (it does look amazing) I have to ask - are you going to drive this, or show it? No judgement, I love how different we all are!

Initially I will most likely show it while its still pretty however with the amount of car events locally I will be driving it. In the end it will be my sunny day driver to work, cant not do that!!! Hey you build it to be proud of it and then you can enjoy driving it even more!!:cool::o

[AJT '33]

Okay everyone I need some more help on a measurement on a 5L Coyote Engine oil pan. Could some of you put a straight edge on the bottom of your oil pan and measure to the top edge of the oil pan, not the gasket or block. I would like to validate this measurement against a stock 5L Mustang Coyote Engine (GT, Boss 302,or Racing Pan) As I amusing an engine form a 2013 F150 I want to see if i really need to replace the pan. as far as i can tell my pan is only 6-5/8" and most replacement racing pans are the same. hence why I would like to see what other pans from Mustang 5L engines have as a height.

Your help is deeply appreciated!!!! TY!

[AJT '33]

OK, long weekend of work, thank god for my son (Extremely proud Dad here!) without him I would not be as far along as we are IMO. While he worked on electrical and miscellaneous items as I get parts we find that need painting, painted, I have started the daunting task of cleaning my donor engine, my son got all the parts that we could strip off removed and placed away for the time being. Then with a small wire brush on an air grinder I started to work on brushing/cleaning off everything I could get off. LOTS of loose scale and corrosion that came from our salt ridden winters up here. 79731 79732 I am using a 1" medium wire brush such that the wires spin outwards when at a higher speed and can settle a bit more at lower speeds. I also found some small brass brushes for the Dremmel (1/4" brush) and I used those to get into all those small crevices, they actually worked out very well however the two that i bought were toast after the first round on each side, need to get a couple more to finish the job. So far it looks good and clean and as soon as we get the puller to remove the front pulley I will go ahead and finish the front and hopefully by this weekend be in paint!
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[AJT '33]

Not much progress this weekend so far however I took the plunge after struggling with my little 25 gallon compressor and upgraded to an 80 gallon 6hp. No more waiting or sharing the air with my son. What a HUGE difference a two stage makes.
Now to finish the work on the engine and tomorrow my harmonic pulley removing tool arrives and we can get it off so I can paint this week. Next weekend re-assembly of the engine with the transmission and in she goes! Hope to have first start by end of February!

[CVOBill]

When I saw an update on your build thread I was hoping to see the painted engine. I'm just a little anxious to see it, but this is a nice update and a great addition to the shop. Keep the updates coming.

[AJT '33]

When I saw an update on your build thread I was hoping to see the painted engine. I'm just a little anxious to see it, but this is a nice update and a great addition to the shop. Keep the updates coming.

Well guess what, got the base coat on. Need to get the front pulley off tomorrow when my puller is suppose to arrive. Here are a few prelim pics of what I painted this afternoon.
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[AJT '33]

So all of you I need your help once again. As I am nearing the end of all the little detail parts I am completely on the wall about what to do with my grill as it pertains to a paint scheme. Should I go Black on Black? Black grills with a ring of Burnt Copper? All Burnt Copper? Burnt Copper grills and Black trim around? Right now I am leaning to the last on with Burnt copper grills and Black around the edge, What do you all think would be nice? Look forward to hearing from you all!

PS. I am looking at having a flat copper plate as a backdrop for the instrument panel fitted in the recess from one door to the other.

[RoadRacer]

Did you consider copper plating for the bright work?

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[AJT '33]

Did you consider copper plating for the bright work?

80024

I looked at the Steampunk radiator on that special build however since most of the copper effect is a darker burnt or oxidized color I was thinking to use the same however instead of bright copper the burnt copper. Copper plating is EXTREMELY expensive (close to $800 CDN) so I'm sticking with the paint work versus the plate work. :)
I do like that look and I am inspired by that work as well.

[RoadRacer]

Understood! I love that color combo, so that equates to "Black grills with a ring of Burnt Copper?" getting my vote!

[AJT '33]

So my engine is base coated with 3 coats of clear, very happy how it turned out. 80117 80118

My next challenge is with the valve cover bolts, initially I thought to just replace them but when I went to the Ford Dealer thinking they would cost a couple buck I was surprised to hear they were $11 each!! For roughly 28 bolts thats way too much! 80119

So I guess that removing, sand blasting and more painting will be necessary unless any of you know where i can get much less expensive bolts or chrome or black replacements? Any ideas anyone? Hitting my limit on spending so will need to either get creative or find much less expensive solutions. Thanks all!

[DaveS53]

Measure the thread size and length of the bolts. Of course they are metric. Quite often, you can find stainless steel replacements at places like McMaster-Carr or Bolt Depot. You can choose between hex head, socket head or button head.

[Arrowhead]

Looks great, glad to see you take the time and dedication to paint your engine - base and clear to boot. It's a lot of work but I always do it too. Do you have the ability to powder coat? You could do a satin black color or something else that compliments you paint scheme. Heck, for small bolts like that you could do it in a toaster oven. If you don't have a powder coating machine, you'll recover the cost pretty quickly by not having to buy new hardware.

[AJT '33]

Not much movement on my end this last week due to catching that infamous flu bug. My son again stepped up to the plate and kept the build going and he mocked up the engine support brackets and headers to see how they would look before we fit it in the frame this weekend.
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More to follow!

[AJT '33]

Well last night was a milestone, we knew when we were fitting up the engine that we needed to nip one corner of the timing chain cover however being a F150 engine with a slightly different cover we did not know how much. In the end it will be a nice chunk that will be removed but all in all it not that bad, will need to cut carefully to be able to refinish the corner where we made the trim.
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To all you guys who are using an F150 engine, this is what you will need to be doing. As well, at least on this 2013 F150 engine, the oil pan was not any deeper than the standard GT engine so we did not change it nor did we change the timing chain cover. We will know once we add all the other pulleys and try on the belt we will really know if all is good once we start the engine. More to come...

[AJT '33]

BIG DAY TODAY! Have the base engine setup we will be adding the transmission and then it's off to getting the engine in!
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[AJT '33]

B@C has a heart!80705[/ATTACH [ATTACH=CONFIG]80706

[TDSapp]

B@C has a heart!



I bet that feels good. I know it felt great for me to have the motor set in and waiting to start.

[RoadRacer]

Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later :)

[AJT '33]

Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later :)

Ahhh wise advice will tell my son.

[HVACMAN]

Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later :)

I can't decide which is my least favorite part of the build so far. Either mounting the horns in that small space between the shocks or drilling all the holes for for the floor panels.

[AJT '33]

I can't decide which is my least favorite part of the build so far. Either mounting the horns in that small space between the shocks or drilling all the holes for for the floor panels.

For me neither, my son took care of it!! LOL... :) Thank god he's such an amazing help!

Mind you I still haven't told him that I want a train steam whistle on this car (for those real *&^^holes), just haven't figured out how to get it done.

[HVACMAN]

For me neither, my son took care of it!! LOL... :) Thank god he's such an amazing help!

Mind you I still haven't told him that I want a train steam whistle on this car (for those real *&^^holes), just haven't figured out how to get it done.

I saw this in Tacoma, Wa.8096680967

[AJT '33]

I saw this in Tacoma, Wa.8096680967


Maybe just a smidge smaller than that!!! :)

[AJT '33]

Just going through different pictures and to think I started with a donor engine from a 2013 F150 which was "seasoned" to what we have now is quite amazing.

BEFORE: 81247 81248 in 2015 when I first picked it up to....

AFTER: 81249 81250 81251 just a month ago...

[AJT '33]

Again travelling for business and my son once again stepped up to the plate and got a bunch of wiring done as well as the headers and the bulk of the muffler system setup. B&C is now starting to look like something real!! Will be furthering wiring and other miscellaneous items to completion to keep this moving if our goal to have the engine running come the first couple weeks of March is to be achieved.
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As well FFR came through with the replacement drive shaft, received it yesterday, the original was an inch long and would have fit. Sent them a bunch of photos and they came through once again! Thanks Tony and David at FFR!!!!

[AJT '33]

Started to mock up the transmission cover such that I can modify the one supplied to have more space. on either side as well give us the space we need to run wiring. As the one that is supplied is a fit all I expected that we would need to custom fit it.
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[AJT '33]

Looking to figure out if it is worth adding an aluminum mounting plate to the inside of the firewall frame to allow easier mounting of appliances such as sensors, heater, wiring? Has anyone done something like this? it would simplify the mounting of equipment under the dash and not seeing it in the engine bay of the firewall. If anyone has done this I would like to see what you have done.

[RoadRacer]

Looking to figure out if it is worth adding an aluminum mounting plate to the inside of the firewall frame to allow easier mounting of appliances such as sensors, heater, wiring? Has anyone done something like this? it would simplify the mounting of equipment under the dash and not seeing it in the engine bay of the firewall. If anyone has done this I would like to see what you have done.

Yes, i think many people do this.. here's a product you can buy to help.

http://www.replicaparts.com/Hot%20Rod%20INNER%20FIREWALL%20page.htm

I'm going to make something up from existing sheet that I have when I mount my heater.

[jplofsky]

Here are some photos of using two mounting plates. the first one closet to the firewall has the engine computer and the ignition security computer. It is necessary when using the Lincoln 4.6L V8 32V engine. the second plate supports the heater aircon evaporator fan unit.
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[TxMike64]

... and the ignition security computer. It is necessary when using the Lincoln 4.6L V8 32V engine...

Or you can have the PATS system coded-out/disabled in the ECM.

[AJT '33]

BIG BUILD DAY TODAY For the first time B&C put her feet on the ground and rolled to her new home for the push to get her running!
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My brother in law lined me a set of tires from his mustang and we were able to get her on her feet and roll it to the lift and get her up to be able to work easier. Again my son was key to getting this done! Now the real work and fun begins!

[AJT '33]

It's been a while however posting pictures of wiring and setup is not the most exciting. However now that the base setup is close I felt it was time to post the progress.
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[AJT '33]

Well, still moving forward and completing the fuel lines, the heater lines as well as the radiator items. Ran into a hitch again with the Overflow Tank, it does not fit in the space beside the radiator, has anyone successfully fit it beside the radiator? Any help is appreciated!!
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[RoadRacer]

I found I could make it fit, with some slight mods to the aluminum, but in the end didn't like it stuck out there so I moved to the firewall. One hint though - make sure you're close to ride height.. it might make more room by putting shocks in right place

[AJT '33]

Another big event today... first time the body and top are on together. Really finally see what this baby may look like! Lots to do that's really not visible but critical to getting it started for the first time. At least I now have shoes for it, need to have the wheels powder coated satin black and then the tires mounted. 83281 83282 83283

[AJT '33]

Now I know how you all feel when you get shoes for your baby and fit them on for the first time!!!83784 83785

[AJT '33]

Well I knew that there would be some challenges however I never thought they would be with the radiator hoses versus brake lines and fuel lines. I/we have been struggling a bit with how the radiator hoses end up using the stainless corrugated hose from FFR and the adapters. After struggling with both the upper and lower hoses I reverted to the Factory Five 33 Hot Rod Builders on Facebook and hoooked up with Tom Zuorro, also a 33 Hot Rod owner, with his help I was able to get the right parts for the upper and lower hoses and the fit makes it very clean. Following are a few pictures of the upper hose setup where one hose was used and slightly trimmed as you can see.
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The hose is a Dayco #70443 and just needed a small trim. It has some room for movement and we will see how it performs once up and running in a few weeks I hope depending on business travel. A BIG THANK YOU to Tom for all his insight on this and the lower hose.

Tonight, the remote filter installation, bought from Moroso however I am VERY disappointed in them as they did not tell me that their shipping charges did not cover the brokerage and taxes I needed to pay (close to $80, unlike Summit and ALL the other vendors I have used to bring things into Canada), nothing on the invoice or website on this. As well they don't provide any of the plugs for any of the unused ports so you need to purchase those separately and of course they don't come in black. I hope that the install goes better than the acquisition of the relocation kit goes! Buyer beware!

[BigB]

What did you end up doing for the lower hose? I saw your post over in the FB side and never realized that the lower radiator port is larger on the bottom.

[AJT '33]

What did you end up doing for the lower hose? I saw your post over in the FB side and never realized that the lower radiator port is larger on the bottom.

I followed Tom's direction there as well using a combination of three hoses, (2) Gates 21794 and (1) Gates 21045, you can use Delco equivalents, they seem a bit more robust, look better and a little less expensive. Should have them fit by the weekend and then I'll take some pictures to post. Itsmocked up and seems to fit well however I still need to trim some more to have clearances properly setup. The 21045 hose has one end that 1.5" and the other 1.75", you will need 1.5" aluminum couplings to connect them, there are two types on amazon however we will fabricate them using 1.5" muffler pipe and welding on a lip on each end to ensure there is no slippage, less costly than ordering on line for me (about a fifth of the price).

[AJT '33]

As promised here are a few pictures of the mockup of the lower hoses. I still have to trim the top one to have additional clearance but I will be doing that a little bit at a time. I ended up getting some pieces of 1.5" muffler pipe cut 3" long and will get my son to add a weld lip on the edge such that when we add clamps it cannot slip off the pipe, I will get pictures of the final product and add it to my post as well.
84276 you can see the new hose to the right of the air filter
84277 you can see where it comes down in the upper left corner, there is a connector there, turns 90 deg. to the right and meets up to the last piece which you can see where I have tentatively marked where I will cut both of these to allow them to connect together at that point. There will be a connector there as well.

I will try and have the hoses butt up cleanly so you don't see the connectors only the two clamps. I am also looking into a 1.5" braided sleeve to cover it from the top to the bottom to have a cleaner look and cover the joint as well, but will still see the T-Bolt clamps. At a minimum I will put the sleeve on the upper portion for now to make it look clean at least from the top. If I can find a small piece of 1.5-1.75" shrink tube to cover the ends that would really make it look clean.

[1932]

I wielded a half piece of exhaust pipe for the hose to nest in by the belt idler. You may have room as i moved engine.

[AJT '33]

So finished the hose mockups, air filter and time to tighten down the fittings as the goal this weekend is to be able to complete hooking everything up, wiring, plumbing etc... and turn over the engine to allow the new fluids to be pushed through the motor and allow us to check initial pressures. Once that's done it's on to installing the plugs and connecting the last of the wiring, adding some fuel into the tank, letting that prime up and hopefully no leaks, then the hopeful moment of truth as a lot of you have already gone through!! Yes, I will post the infamous first start video which is tradition!!

No driving around yet, just first starts and then a blitz to get the body back on, lock it onto the firewall, fit up the doors, trunk, hood, bottom lip, then the process of adjusting, sanding, levelling, aligning, then on to primers and a lot of manual labor to sand smooth everything together. That will be a full onth of work for sure. Once thats done, tear down, pull the bosy and parts to send them off to paint. While thats underway we will be doing all that clean up work on the wiring, hoses such that when the everything starts coming back from aint, its final assembly time!! (after the go-karting has happened as well!!

Exciting times, not bad since starting this project at the beginning of November last year. Looking forward to getting the next 6 weeks under our belt!!

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[AJT '33]

Couldn't wait to turn over the engine and hear its first heart beat! Now to finish all the base wiring to really here her heart!
https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tanzer.9/posts/10156370599814732

[RoadRacer]

Couldn't wait to turn over the engine and hear its first heart beat! Now to finish all the base wiring to really here her heart!
https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tanzer.9/posts/10156370599814732

link won't work to non-friends I guess?

[AJT '33]

Like all others who have done this... After 5 months of weeknights and weekends working to get this baby we finally got it started on the FIRST turn of the key!!!!! Thanks to all that have helped through all your posts and feedback!
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10156376675169732&id=519699731

[AJT '33]

link won't work to non-friends I guess?

I changed it to Public, Thanks!!

[AJT '33]

Well, now that we have a running engine we are encountering a few really weird things. Discovered that both BBK headers leak inside of where the pipes come from the engine to the connection plate where its suppose to be welded, seems they are not. Not sure what to do or if they are suppose to be welded all around from the inside of the open end of the header. Will be going to FFR today to ask the question but I have a video which you can hear clearly (and I can feel it) that there is blow out from there. Since everything is installed I would have to have to pull apart the exhaust and replace the headers if they ship new ones.

So all of you which have BBK headers I would highly recommend that you pressure test them to ensure that they are sealed up properly.

Here is the location: 85256

UPDATE: FFR is sending me another set of headers to replace these, as always they've come through for me/us.

[AJT '33]

So a new issue cropped up which is kind of weird, I run into an issue when plugging in the connector on to the tranny connector, like in the attached picture, where when plugged in, it pins up the dial to 60 or 80mph and the odometer starts counting up? I am using the FFR Harness with the Ford Racing Harness so what is in the manuals all are in sync, I have a TKO600 trtanny however when I plug the harness on to the tranny the speedometer pins and the odometer starts counting up. Would appreciate if those of you that have this setup get back to me as I am knod of stumped right now.
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Any onsite is appreciated. Have contacted FFR and will be calling Tremec as well.

https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tanzer.9/videos/10156387340934732/?t=1

[erlihemi]

I would go straight to the Auto meter manual or Autometer tech support. This sounds like a pre cal check and you need to do another step to get it in sync with your application. Like turn the key off and on 3 times fast, once slow, and point the car towards magnetic north while plugging in the OBDIII diagnostics... Let us know.

[AJT '33]

I would go straight to the Auto meter manual or Autometer tech support. This sounds like a pre cal check and you need to do another step to get it in sync with your application. Like turn the key off and on 3 times fast, once slow, and point the car towards magnetic north while plugging in the OBDIII diagnostics... Let us know.

So here's the end result, Speedo is fine, the setup did not need the second Grey wire on the Speedo, it goes to ground. Since no computer is running the speedo it only needs the signal from the magnetic sensor on the transmission. Once done all is good until I try and run it in gear to see if all registers, might do it on the lift tomorrow. Here is the link to the schematic, it did not come with the Autometer gauge but got it from Dave at FFR. http://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1164.pdf
85403 it the grey wire in the upper right that gets removed and grounded.
Thanks to Dave from FFR for getting the right schematic to us.

[AJT '33]

Lots happening and it all built up to our first go-kart run!!! I posted a short video of my son on his first run in the car here: https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tanzer.9/videos/10156412193409732/ we both were shaking with excitment when we got out of the car!!! Need to tune the engine now as the low end RPM's are jumpy as if the engine was missing fuel then surged to catch up, we will see once I find a local tuner shop that I am comfortable doing the tune. In the meantime I will get the body on, align it properly and start the process of getting the doors on, the trunk, hood and bottom from lip as well as the engine side covers even though I most likely will not use them, better to have them fit and aligned regardless. Still need to figure out the headlights with the added blinkers the province is making em add on to the front. As well the additional side markers need to be chosen and finalized such that they can have the least amount of impact on the look of the car.

Will be using a few days off this friday and part of next week to get a jump on this. House care and summer stuff will take priority however getting this done by July is still the goal!

[TDSapp]

I saw your video this morning on Facebook... That car sounds great. You and your son have done a great job on this car.

[RoadRacer]

Lots happening and it all built up to our first go-kart run!!!

Well done, I'm going crazy waiting for my go-cart! I keep starting the motor and playing with it, but no transmission yet. Hope to place order from Forte's in June..

[JimLev]

Nice video, haven't fired mine up yet, still have to finish the wiring.
Hope to have wheels in a week or so.

[AJT '33]

So had a little bit if a hiccup when we first ran the engine, when slowing down the engine was bucking and we had to press on the clutch and use the brakes to slow down rather than letting the engine help it out. Was all over the car thinking that the fuel pump was not supplying enough flow, then thought it was in the tune and then looked a little further and through Facebook posts and conversations realized that the root may be the Speed Control Unit.
For background I have a 2013 F150 engine with the base harness lugged into the Ford Racing harness and the FFR harness. All was hooked up as per instructions and the car ran, but it was VERY sensitive. Through the discussions we got a copy of the 2015+ wiring mods that needed to be done and realized it was not for ours as the setup was not exactly the same, however, my son soon traced that the solution may be a lot simpler than we all even thought. What ended up happening is that the pin "39" was already wired and we need only to splice into it. I have attached photos of the solution as well as a quick little video which I hope works out.

https://youtu.be/TBOLc-GgDEw
Pictures as follows:
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[AJT '33]

Been a while since I posted anything, as I have the body back on and have started fitting up various fiberglass parts such as the doors. Moving along slowly trying not to create more work for myself, have the passenger side door fitted and will be working on the drivers side next then the trunk and then move on the the hood and front lip at the same time. once all is fitted and locked in then its off to the races in getting the body faired in. Stared gapping the doors on the bottom at 3/16" and then was going to do the same on the verticals but they look too big a gap so I am using 1/8" thick aluminum shims for now which I think will give me a gap along the verticals around 3/32" once primer and sanded.

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Figured out that a good use for a 32 tooth hacksaw blade makes a good corner cut tool after the oscillating saw cuts (I took tin snips and angled the front of the blade too)

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[wallace18]

After building over 10 of these FFR kits I understand how you like the look of 1/8" gaps. They will not work in the long run due to flex in the body and panels. You will end up with chipped paint and fiberglass, IMO. 3/16" is the minimum suggest by FFR for a reason. But who knows maybe you will prove us wrong. Just my 2 cents worth. Car is coming along very nice.

[1932]

When fitting body parts i like to have all parts bolted down so there is no change.

[AJT '33]

After building over 10 of these FFR kits I understand how you like the look of 1/8" gaps. They will not work in the long run due to flex in the body and panels. You will end up with chipped paint and fiberglass, IMO. 3/16" is the minimum suggest by FFR for a reason. But who knows maybe you will prove us wrong. Just my 2 cents worth. Car is coming along very nice.

I appreciate the input as i am not sure how the final result of the car will look like with larger gaps. Did you start with 3/16" gaps then through priming and paint it ended up to be around 1/8" to 5/32"?? If that's the case I can see how starting with a fiberglassed edge gap at 3/16" will gap down once you pile all the layers on, will await your experienced opinion before trimming further, I really appreciate the input! TY!

[AJT '33]

When fitting body parts i like to have all parts bolted down so there is no change.

Agreed, after reading Wallace's suggestion I think I will leave the gap at 1/8" and then lock it all in then even up the gp to 3/16" before paint, I'll wait on his experienced suggestion. THX!

[wallace18]

Yes, it was 3/16" before paint. Even then we still had some rubbing in flex areas. 99% of folks used to gaps on steel cars get upset hearing about 3/16" gaps. Fiberglass kit cars IMO are a much different animal. I am not saying you can't do 1/8", just that you will most likely not like the end result. Best of luck. here is a photo of 3/16" gaps on a 33.

86402

[AJT '33]

Yes, it was 3/16" before paint. Even then we still had some rubbing in flex areas. 99% of folks used to gaps on steel cars get upset hearing about 3/16" gaps. Fiberglass kit cars IMO are a much different animal. I am not saying you can't do 1/8", just that you will most likely not like the end result. Best of luck. here is a photo of 3/16" gaps on a 33.

86402

Advice well taken and much appreciated!!! Thank you!

[AJT '33]

So I ran into a snag yesterday happening with my build as it pertains to the drivers side door. I have fit the passenger side door as I thought that if I had to cleanup and make corrections that inside that door (for the hinge holes) would not be open as much so it would not be as apparent, I have added a few pictures of that door and the only issue I have is the gapping from body to door panel is off once aligned to the face of the body, no biggie as I have seen this in posts and kind of expected it. See attached photos marked passenger door.
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I went ahead and started on the driver side door taking what I had learned from the passenger side and expected that it would go at least as well, but cleaner cuts. The gapping went well but as I started to get to the final gaps I noticed that the bottom left corner of the door (looking at it from the outside) was way off (1/2" if I align the other three points) and away from the body. So I started looking and tried to see if there was anything that I screwed up and could not see anything that was apparent. To be honest I am stumped other then it may be possible that the door somehow got warped during the gluing process as the outer shell and the inner shell dont really look the same as the passenger side door. I don't want to cut the door to try and twist it as I am worried that it will affect the internal door frame as well as the power windows etc... So I really need anyone who ran into this help and input on this one. I am trying to have this door and the trunk gapped by the end of this week so I can move on to everything north of the firewall this weekend. I am in a groove now to get this thing fit, bolted up and the disassembled to get it out to have a coat of HOK Polyester primer applied so I can start all over re-assembling it for final fairing!
86503 Drivers Door after fitted - Gapped one-eighth bt proud of body close to half-inch with other 3 points fitted
86504 Drivers door top of door butted to the body, no play like other side
86505 Drivers Door after fitted - Gapped one-eighth bt proud of body close to half-inch with other 3 points fitted
86507 Drivers Door after fitted - Good 3 spots not bottom left of door

As always any input and help is deeply appreciated.

[1932]

I set beltline first then three corners with one corner in (front lower PS, rear lower DS) then fiberglassed the low corners out. For me i had to set beltline first and gap from their, top of DS door way low, going to redo the work i did when windows go in.
Post 225

[AJT '33]

I set beltline first then three corners with one corner in (front lower PS, rear lower DS) then fiberglassed the low corners out. For me i had to set beltline first and gap from their, top of DS door way low, going to redo the work i did when windows go in.
Post 225

So in the end you lined it up more on the front on the DS then dealt with it on the back end of the DS as far as I can tell from your from Post 225. I have been using the belt line to start all the alignments as well so I guess there will be a lot more "aligning" to be done tonight. I pinged FFR so it will be curious what they say as well.

It's interesting how the Hot Rod fitment compares to the MkIV since we have only 10% of the cars they have out there. I understand their mold set has been replaced a couple times allowing them opportunity to "fix" items like this, future builders will benefit from our correction!!!

Thx for the help!

Andreas

[AJT '33]

So I received the recommendation back from FFR as such "...for the door try loosening the door shell from the frame and rack it or twist it to see if you can get the gap closer. It will take more muscle than you think. If you still can’t get it straight you can actually tap threads into the frame ¼” -20 and use some button head bolts to adjust the body in and out. Once you get that spaced you can put shims between the body and the frame.".
So based on that recommendation and also the feedback I received from the Facebook FFR 33 Family of builders, I may do a little bit of everything, I will move the body at the front of the door outward a bit but not too much otherwise it will create a gap at the firewall, there's a fine line there. I will also move it in so the front is as flush as possible as suggested below and hopefully I will have the rear of the door "in" from the body face of which I can do the reverse of the front where i would add material to the back end in this case.

Should be an interesting night tonight to see what combination will fix the door, maybe fix the gap alignment at the from of the body where it connects to the front fiberglass lip. Most likely be putting it back on the lift to be able to move it up and down easier then sit it on the ground for final alignments so its sitting the way it would when running.

[1932]

When moving body , look at all parts so not to make other problems and so you can bolt it down.

[erlihemi]

I had similar issues, but not quite as bad. The drivers side mold is definitely off. Heed Tom's advice and try to keep as much work as possible on the door and not the body. Get some big clamps, ratchet straps, and wood blocks. Park the drivers side sunny side south. Go out in the morning and ratchet it down. In the afternoon ratchet it down some more. Continue as necessary. Leave it set in the sun a few days. When you release the clamps you'll be half way there.

Enjoy...

[AJT '33]

Was wondering if anyone has a template, either Jpeg or PDF of the V8 symbol you see on some original vintage Fords and 33's? I have a special feature I want to add to my car and need to have it made to a specific size to machine or have it hand fabricated. If someone has a 3D CAD Model or a site in which i can buy one if its the right size, that would even be better. Here is an image of what I am looking for, as always any help is deeply appreciated!!!
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[AJT '33]

Been a while since I posted as I am "playing" with the Doors, Trunk Lid, Hood etc... Did come upon a problem I have seen some people have posted about as it pertains to the trunk lid. In my case the top and bottom line up flush with the body but if it just sits there the middle is up a good 3/8". If I push it down it does sit down and sits nice all around with just a little bit of force. Really would hate to cut the ribs on the underside of the deck but if that the case then so be it. I am also seriously considering fabricating a crown support that once attached would pull the middle down, I would attach it with Rivnuts, probably only need to have five per brace. Thoughts?? THX!!
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[erlihemi]

If you have time you may be able to get away with a temporary crown support with clamps and setting the lid out in the sun a couple weeks to "relax". Not sure with glass if it works better to put the short side towards the sun or just flip it every days to "cook " evenly. Some of the guys have made extensive bracing in the lid to get it shaped.

[AJT '33]

If you have time you may be able to get away with a temporary crown support with clamps and setting the lid out in the sun a couple weeks to "relax". Not sure with glass if it works better to put the short side towards the sun or just flip it every days to "cook " evenly. Some of the guys have made extensive bracing in the lid to get it shaped.

Well got in touch with FFR and they are shipping me a new trunk lid. As always they step up to the plate and make it right.

Will be working on the body and aligning it such that I can make sure that I can get it to primer in the upcoming couple weeks and ready for paint. Will be interesting as once I have the whole car completely together in primer I will be getting an inspection made to obtain my VIN plate, that will be a BIG step to getting this thing plated!!

[AJT '33]

Got a nice Canada Day gift today!! Received my new shifter ball for the toy, its going to look great!! Goes well with my Black and Copper theme.
88193

[AJT '33]

Putty, sand, fit, putty, sand refit, repeat.... is basically the last close to three weeks. Now I know why I haven't done bodywork since my last car I reworked! Regardless it's a nice refresher even in this 100 degree heatwave we're having up here! looking forward to it breaking this weekend, have cut my catalyst in half and still flashing way too soon. At least I don't have to wait on it! Got the top fitted, the bottom lip built up and rough faired in. Now to do some major sanding and fairing to get those ripples and small hollows out of the top. 88348 88349 88350 88351 88352 88353 88354

[RoadRacer]

Love the TV in the garage idea :)

[AJT '33]

Love the TV in the garage idea :)

It's great with the sound system. Have two 1000 watt speakers as well so I can rock it up when I need a lift to get me going!!😁

[Papa]

Was wondering if anyone has a template, either Jpeg or PDF of the V8 symbol you see on some original vintage Fords and 33's? I have a special feature I want to add to my car and need to have it made to a specific size to machine or have it hand fabricated. If someone has a 3D CAD Model or a site in which i can buy one if its the right size, that would even be better. Here is an image of what I am looking for, as always any help is deeply appreciated!!!
86805 86806 86807

Try these guys: https://www.trimparts.com

[AJT '33]

Need to find a creative method that I can clip a windshield sprayer onto the edge of the hood so I don't need (or want) any holes in the hood or the body in front of the windshield, then the hose can run down the inside of the hood as cleanly as possible. Pump and reservoir will still be in the trunk, if anyone then please tell me!!

[Papa]

Need to find a creative method that I can clip a windshield sprayer onto the edge of the hood so I don't need (or want) any holes in the hood or the body in front of the windshield, then the hose can run down the inside of the hood as cleanly as possible. Pump and reservoir will still be in the trunk, if anyone then please tell me!!

Check out this concept:

https://www.automotiveworld.com/news-releases/bosch-jet-wiper-new-wiper-arm-generation-makes-driving-safer/

https://www.topgear.com.ph/news/technology-news/volvo-xc90-equipped-with-bosch-s-jet-wiper-system

[AJT '33]

After a lot of on and off and taking care of my wife who had a scare and ended up in the hospital, I'm able to get back going and make some progress yesterday and today. Trunk lid fit and faired, hard top fit faired and sanded, and the front bottom lip fit with only trimming st the edge of where it fits to the front grill. Got the hood setup and tight fit the the grill as well, a very productive evenings and yesterday! I can finally see the possibility of getting the base polyester primer from House of Kolor applied to get it all back together for a final fit! Heres only a few pics.
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[wrp]

You are making great progress, sorry to hear about your wife. I hope everything continues to progress smoothly.

[AJT '33]

Well progress is still happening, will be attending the Syracuse Nationals this Saturday and add to the "Wish List". I piked up my next addition to the car for when i will be assembling it hopefully in the next few weeks. I bought the same Dash panel that Bill Price had installed in his car Ethyl however i base coated it with Burnt Copper and then had it Hydro Dipped and clear coated. he end result far surpassed what i was hoping for!! In low light you can see that there is some type of gear there, however when in full sun it really pops and the details jump out at you!! Here are just a few of the pictures that I took this morning.
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I cant wait to see what this will look like mounted over a satin black dash!!

[Lancaster Lad]

AJT '33
The dash insert looks fantastic. Must have been fun to get that gear centered with the
4 gauge cluster.

[FF33rod]

That dash panel is absolutely stunning!

By the way, would you mind sharing the supplier?

[wrp]

Think this is an awesome job. I love the dash piece, the execution, the way it pops in the light. fabulous job.

[AJT '33]

That dash panel is absolutely stunning!

By the way, would you mind sharing the supplier?

I was referred by Bill Price, we bought it at http://www.jbmicrofinish.com/catalog.html, send them an email and they will get it to you in a week. They have a few unique models. I refinished mine to what you see here.

[AJT '33]

The build continues and there are more of those tweaks that I/we run into, this one has the installation of the Optional hood with additional clearance. After lining up the fiberglass hood with the body and the grill (close to zero gap), we installed the hinge hardware as well as the pins to the firewall and lined that up with the hood, got the rivnuts in and attach the hinges appropriately. We then set the latch on the grill then added the latch pin/plate to the latch and laid the hood back on to mark the latch pin plate and realized that the pin was too long.
89478 got in touch with Tony at FFR and he told us that he notchess the grill a bit to allow for this if necessary. 89479

Went to my local hardware store which carries ALL KINDS of specialty hardware and picked up a shorter shoulder bolt. Replaced it on the plate then tried again, marked the backside like the instructions say and took off the hood to mark and install the plate with the pin to find that the slots do not sit on the portion of the flat where the aluminum backer plate is located.
89477 Got in touch with Tony again and he agreed that even though it would hold the better solution is to have bolts in the area where the aluminum plate is located, they are sending me a new plate with 4 holes.

Re-installed the pin on the hood and set it down, latches nice however I now have to make a spacer to move the latch on the grill down about 3/8" so the hood is in its sweet spot, and will need to do the notch afterall as I will also need to slot the latch bracket, front to back (as its slotted left/right now) to allow the latch to move forward so the nut of the pin that goes into the latch clears the face of the radiator, that will be tonight or tomorrows work most likely!
89480 I think i have a bit more than normal slope on the grill as well.

Getting close to having the sides covers fit such that I can then modify them to allow a portion of the front to remain installed, further pics to follow after that's done then we are onto the power windows, mirrors, door handles and hardtop/windshield install to get the balance of what connects to the body done. The it all comes apart to get Polyester primer on it! (but will probably do a run in the neighborhood assembled to get the feel of the car!!

[OnlyAndy]

Vintage Air has a HEAT only unit that is small and a universal fit. I had one in an old 52' Chevy PU hot rod and it worked just fine. Even here in hot SoCal I am not going with AIR Cond in my 33' ( due end Aug ) . I like the old basic Hot Rod type cars but it is nice to warm up toes on an early am ride to an event.

[AJT '33]

Vintage Air has a HEAT only unit that is small and a universal fit. I had one in an old 52' Chevy PU hot rod and it worked just fine. Even here in hot SoCal I am not going with AIR Cond in my 33' ( due end Aug ) . I like the old basic Hot Rod type cars but it is nice to warm up toes on an early am ride to an event.

I got mine installed in the car and it blows a lot of hot air, should be fine! Don't have a good picture right now as we got the body on as soon as it was hooked up.

[tcollins]

Andreas, your hood latch location looks too far rearward, compared to mine. This may be why the nut is hitting the radiator. You can see in this picture where I notched the grill for the bolt head.
89499

[AJT '33]

Andreas, your hood latch location looks too far rearward, compared to mine. This may be why the nut is hitting the radiator. You can see in this picture where I notched the grill for the bolt head.
89499

Hey Tim, looks like your hood is like Bill's, mine is different due to the raised top I guess. Regardless, I spoke with Tony and he helped out and suggested to notch (or add a smiley face) to the grill like you did. I did not have to notch it yet but I need to line up the nose cone again as something shifted when i finally got the grill to lock in and sit at the right height. Tony said there will be a LOT of adjusting to get it right. Will be doing more fitting and adjusting tonight most likely. TY!!

[duff33]

I am at the exact same point in my build ( installing the hood) and have run into the exact same issues that you are having. I think I have solved a couple of the issues and will post them in my story.

[AJT '33]

Well big day yesterday, was able to attach the hard top temporarily and go for a run around the neighborhood. Felt good to get her back out on the road looking different from being just a gokart. Now looking to get the last of the sanding and aligning fine to get that first coat of polyester primer from House of Kolors applied.
91164 91165 91166 91167 91168 91169

[wrp]

Going to look really good. I like the way you cut the fenders in

[AJT '33]

Ran into a bit of a snag today with the Koni coil over rear shocks. So the tires dont rub on the fenders I had to adjust the ring WAY UP such that I had clearance and hopefully no rubbing, have not tested it yet. With the current shocks I'm pretty well maxed out at a measurement of 3.5" from the bottom of the ring to the bottom of the threaded portion of the shock. Wondering how much others have as a measurement with an IRS test end? Also found out the right fender is a 1/2" narrower than the right fender so I will need to split and move it out the 1/2" so they look even and the right fender sits more vertical. I guess it's those small things that end up extending the build times.

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91271

[erlihemi]

Ran into a bit of a snag today with the Koni coil over rear shocks. So the tires dont rub on the fenders I had to adjust the ring WAY UP such that I had clearance and hopefully no rubbing, have not tested it yet. With the current shocks I'm pretty well maxed out at a measurement of 3.5" from the bottom of the ring to the bottom of the threaded portion of the shock. Wondering how much others have as a measurement with an IRS test end? Also found out the right fender is a 1/2" narrower than the right fender so I will need to split and move it out the 1/2" so they look even and the right fender sits more vertical. I guess it's those small things that end up extending the build times.

91262 91263
91271

Hard to tell whats really going on with the clearance. I don't have IRS, but I did "pull" my inner fenders in a little at the rear. Glass was not good in that area and required smoothing out also. In the picture I lined up a Rivnut thru the trunk sheet with the glass away from the fat section of the tire side wall. I used a lock nut and long 1/4 bolt for this to draw the inner fender in. Cured a couple sins. My fenders weren't that far off, but the body is.
91461

[AJT '33]

Has been a while since I posted but when all that your doing is sanding and touching up pinholes and small scratches, then there really is not much to show. Taking my time and getting everyday house stuff done slows the build down, but one must enjoy the summer regardless. A few picks of the first parts in the paint booth just after the Polyester Primer was applied. Suggest that anyone go this route not try and make things perfect before the polyester primer, as hard as you try this will make all the areas you thought you got show up like a sore thumb, if you do this step early on after the initial fairing you will save yourself a lot of time.
93682 93683 93684
One item that my painter suggested is "Evercoat 440 Express Micro-Pinhole Eliminator", this is a filler however its for midro pin-holes and scratches. There has a been a few times in sanding that i grabbed a block with a coarse grade paper started to sand and &^%$#^*(*!! Can't sand it out however this product simply gets wiped on (as if your waxing your car with liquid wax) and fills and flashes right away which fills ALL those scratches and micro pin-holes from doing a bit extra putty work. Really makes a difference when your trying to get that smooth finish, especially a gloss black which shows everything.

[AJT '33]

OK, this one is for those that have a hard top and also a bolt on windshield. I just fit and marked the hard top, then slid it back. Took my windshield and placed it so it fit well and had the bottom sitting as flush as possible and had the 31" measurement at its tips to have the right slope. If you look at the pictures, you can see both the hard top and windshield lines up, however, the fronts are about a 1/4" different.
94238 94239
As well the outboard holes of the windshield are basically outside of the front edge of the hard top. When I spoke with Tony Z in Syracuse he said not to use the four outside attachments, not crazy about that. The sides of the hardtop are lined up with the door joints real nice.
94240 94241 94242
After consulting with some great build friends and putting out a call for opinions to those who may have done this the end result for the attachment is that the front windshield will have five holes securing it. I will need to add a set of holes to each end of the windshield as I will not be using the two outboard ones on the end. For the hard top, I will have 6 in the front set at 6" apart (first set offset 3" off the CL of the car) and the standard 5 in the rear as in the assembly guide.
94243 94244 94245 94246 94247

[OnlyAndy]

Thx for showing this step in detail. I am only one week into my 33' build but this step you are doing now is already one of the million or so details on my mind. I like they way you are getting this done and I know your example will be a valuable source for my project.... When I get there. Goof job.

[wallace18]

What I did was mount the hardtop and draw an outline around the front inside and outside. Then I mounted the windshield using the area marked. This worked for me on 2-33 builds. Since you most likely never buy a convertible top for it this works.

[AJT '33]

Quick update as most of the work I have been doing is sanding... Regardless I can see the end is near and once my body and doors get their Polyester Primer, I will be re-assembling everything and putting the whole car together will all lights, switches, panels etc... Then once that's all done I'll get my pre-inspection by the local police force to get approved by them (they make sure there are no stolen parts on the car, then I tear it all apart and send it off to the final primer, more sanding, then paint. Looking forward to having real final painted parts together!!!
94499 94500 94501
However she will be naked again for a while!
94502

[AJT '33]

Well the sanding continues... have been looking at a spray can alternative to having Line-X or Rhino liner applied to certain areas of the cars body and fenders. Have found a commercial gravel guard, it applies easily enough, paintable, however it is not solvent resistant so i fear that anything like oil, gas or even coolant will dissolve it and it will look like crap. Looking for anything others may have used that worked very well and is easily applied, ay suggestions?? I currently have Dominion Sure Seal Gravel Guard.

[wrp]

I'm just thinking out loud here and have not seen much commentary one way or the other. However, I notice that the kick panel on both sides is fairly bereft of a lot of obstruction between the heat put off by the headers and the inner floor of the foot pans. I have even heard a few comments concerning the heat making its way up through the heat panel. I used Tim Whitteaker's kick panels to cover the unsightly opening. I wondered if for heat, a person were to put a vent that could be opened and closed on the kick panel to direct the heat to the floor pan in cold weather? You could put the vent in either the kick panel area or forward of it where the4 current aluminum comes up. A little creativity with insulation and a fan/blower of sorts and who knows. I think that might be a better Texas-Lousiana solution than the Northwest.

9474794749

[AJT '33]

So between sanding, sanding and more sanding... I have figured out a method of mounting the front of the hardtop using knurled barbed inserts with 1/4-20 wing screws from Spaenur (#565-801 and be will be using the same ones for the rear, probably just longer). After a bunch of research, I found found the knurled nuts (from Spaenur #628-512) which are made to be embedded into various materials such as fiberglass. As well I found an adhesive (Loctite AA H800) that can bond metal and fiberglass together with a very high bond strength (expensive but you don't need much in reality).
So the first step was to align and make sure the location of the hardtop and the windshield would work together when switched out. Once located and aligned I marked and drilled the holes in the front and rear. In the rear I used the Rivnuts with oversized washers that had a hole size smaller than the rivnut so I could drill out the washer to fit exactly the hole required for the Rivnuts and picked up a slightly longer grip size of 1/4-20 Rivnut. The fron was more work as I marked and drilled not only the body but after I marked the front of the hard top I drilled the holes for the knurled bard inserts to the same size as the 1/4-20 Rivnuts. You will see from the pictures the process I used.
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To ensure the alignment of the inserts to the window, I placed a stainless washer to hold the insert square to the bolt and hardtop. When the adhesive was set and before it hardened, I turned out the bolt so it would not bond to the adhesive in the cavity. One thing that did happen is that the stainless washer ended bonding to the surface anyhow so I simply just left it there. Once cured i was pleasantly surprised as to how much strength this ended up really having and even though i have way more than enough attachment points, I don't expect to use them all unless there is a seal issue and even then this is way more than strong enough.
95783 95784 This is my improvised plunger setup for the adhesive, better than spending $80 on the applicator gun
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[AJT '33]

Well still moving forward, got the body and doors back on last night and one of my Rivnuts that I was unsure about loosened up and is turning in loose, hate that. Now i got to decide before I remove the body if I'm going to try and salvage it or simply abandon it all together. Its not critical as it for the door sills however i'll need to take a closer look and decide what I want to do. Lesson learned... don't us the holes for the temporary fasteners to ship the body on the car for Rivnuts!
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Next steps are to completely assemble and fit everything including all electrical, heater, power windows, interior fit up and mock up with gauges, all hardware, basically complete. Then have it all sanded and faired in a final format, then completely tear it down cataloging every part, but bolt washer etc... Then I will be applying the final primers, base coats and clears to let it cure while I go ahead and finish paint all the miscellaneous hardware that needs it to then reassemble the whole thing once and for all!!!

[FF33rod]

Must feel good seeing it come together. Thanks for the tip on the holes - noted so that I can pursue my own set of mistakes ;)

[AJT '33]

Finally at a point where I need to decide if I stay with shaved door handles and remote door opener/unlock such as this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aul-311810/overview/ from Autoloc or installaing the door handles supplied with the kit? Tough decision as I am still not sure how to go about installing a secondary emergency unlock if there is no power or if the switch does not work anymore. Other than fitting and installing what I have left, this is the only thing that's giving me heartaches. I am still looking for a nice interior door latch handle that looks good and is easy to install, it seems like it always resets back to the same handles when searching on the net, not much variety out there it seems.

[AJT '33]

Haven't posted in weeks as I took a break and then started to assemble the entire car working in all the details needed to complete the last assembly before disassembly and paint early in the new year. Finally got the detailing completed for the design of the stick shift, in the end I will custom make the Spur Gears so I ended up changing the look a bit. I am happy with the end result and now understand even better how its all in the details!!
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Now to more of these little detail works!!!

[AJT '33]

So finally jumped in and started the process of cutting in the power window slot in the door top. Once we measured it all up I noticed the rear of the slot is right at the inside of the door leaving no room for the actual window. As well I measured the width of the window is 32" and the width of the hard top is 32" on the passenger side and 32-3/16" on the drivers side. So my dilemma is if I should get the window sanded down about an eight on each side? It will be interesting to see how much adjusting will be needed. Any suggestions or observations?
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[wrp]

I paid guys that are much smarter than me to make mine work. They dialed mine in pretty effectively.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7z64l-GkQc

[AJT '33]

I would like to wish everyone a…

VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!!

99330

[CVOBill]

Merry Christmas Andreas

[AJT '33]

Progress on those small details that will hopefully make the car stand out and keeping it simple.
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And it makes the latch work smoothly!

[duff33]

Wow, I am about to go install what looks like the exact same handles

[FF33rod]

isn't this like 2 women wearing the same dress to a party? ;) just joking. They look great. So this gives a direct mechanical connection to the latch instead of a cable?

[AJT '33]

isn't this like 2 women wearing the same dress to a party? ;) just joking. They look great. So this gives a direct mechanical connection to the latch instead of a cable?

Yes, mechanical inside where the FFR in is and shaved on the outside so a cable via a remote. Will have independent emergency unlock hidden on the car as well.

[AJT '33]

Lined up and getting ready to drill the guage cluster that sits in my dash panel.
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[JimLev]

I would like to wish everyone a…

VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!!

99330

Same back to you and all the others on the forum.

99430

[duff33]

Well the door handles are the same thing only different.9943199432

Everyone have a great Christmas and a healthy and happy New Year !!! And thanks for all the help through the years

[AJT '33]

Well the last piece of fiberglass is fitted and installed. Minor bit of fiberglassing and then full assembly and the final primer prep.
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[AJT '33]

Lots and lots of fitting.... One major centerpiece was fitted and then removed so it doesn't get any damage (already has a very small nick in it). Time to finish the power windows now that I have new glass to install and then wiring back to the fuse box. Then switches and more fabrication to accommodate anything required.
100096

Need to complete the custom tranny cover and decide switch locations as well as where I will be cladding areas in copper plate.

[wrp]

Love the centerpiece

[AJT '33]

Love the centerpiece

Hey Bill, yours was the inspiration!!

[AJT '33]

So I ran into a snag with the Dash panel, while I was on a business trip my son worked on the wiring and getting the gauges all pre-fit and soon realized the gauges supplied for the Tach and Speedo are 3-1/8" and not 3-3/8" which the dash panel is machined for. Too late to make a change now so I will need to 3D print a filler that will make up the space then paint it black so it looks as good as it can. Should have checked the fit as soon as I received to allow the supplier to replace it, too late now as its all dipped and sealed!! :(
101122 Its hard to see in this picture but the gauge is too small for the hole

[AJT '33]

Back to assembling, it's been a while. Have the center console in and mocked up, some minor refinements but feel good about it. Will look better with the carpet and copper cladding.
101673
Also got the front and rear sidemarker lights set and mocked in. Thought I would put Dragons eyes in the back but after massaging the rear fender I liked the ovals better in the back and will change the front to the amber dragons eyes. Will tint them down with a bit of black so they blend a bit better.
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My son got a good portion of the door release brackets in and they are ready for mounting. Missing some 10/24 nuts for the cable chase and then that goes in. Power window fit and finalize next, next weekend.
101677
Also now know where my speakers are going as well, printed out the size from pictures on the internet, will work out great I think. will 3D print a speaker mount so it points the main speaker towards the center of the cab. Lots of details to get done. The work continues!!

[JOP33]

Back to assembling, it's been a while. Have the center console in and mocked up, some minor refinements but feel good about it. Will look better with the carpet and copper cladding.
101673
Also got the front and rear sidemarker lights set and mocked in. Thought I would put Dragons eyes in the back but after massaging the rear fender I liked the ovals better in the back and will change the front to the amber dragons eyes. Will tint them down with a bit of black so they blend a bit better.
101674 101676 101675
My son got a good portion of the door release brackets in and they are ready for mounting. Missing some 10/24 nuts for the cable chase and then that goes in. Power window fit and finalize next, next weekend.
101677
Also now know where my speakers are going as well, printed out the size from pictures on the internet, will work out great I think. will 3D print a speaker mount so it points the main speaker towards the center of the cab. Lots of details to get done. The work continues!!

Great mock up and layout on the speakers! Few questions for you, who's rear fenders did you go with, what is your rear wheel & tire size and finally do you plan on bringing the speakers outside of the door panels (meaning the speakers won't be flush)? You are much further along with the body fit up than I, and I was concerned on my speaker placement as far as clearing the window glass and all mechanisms within the door. I thought if I came out with them that may shrink the passenger space a little too much...thanks ahead of time for the help and good luck with the rest of your build.

[AJT '33]

Great mock up and layout on the speakers! Few questions for you, who's rear fenders did you go with, what is your rear wheel & tire size and finally do you plan on bringing the speakers outside of the door panels (meaning the speakers won't be flush)? You are much further along with the body fit up than I, and I was concerned on my speaker placement as far as clearing the window glass and all mechanisms within the door. I thought if I came out with them that may shrink the passenger space a little too much...thanks ahead of time for the help and good luck with the rest of your build.

The rear fenders are the standard FFR fenders (as well as the fronts) but I ended up cutting them to the shape I wanted for the look I wanted so the rear lines are continuous. Here are a few of my mock up shots. This is where that 1/4" masking tape comes in real handy, I mocked up one side then using the fender itself making marks on the edge at 1" intervals, measured vertical and horizontal points along the fender edge to mark the opposite side, worked well. I did not cut them until I had the body back on the car and made sure I liked the overall look. I am trying to use as much of the supplied material to keep my costs down so I have money to spend elsewhere on details. (also posted comments on the fronts on your build thread)
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As to the speakers, I found Infinity speakers (www.infinityspeakers.com) which were the same as in my daily driver (sound is phenomenal!) So when I researched them I found that the size/depth versus the quality of sound was worth the expense. As the 6-1/2" speakers (60CSX) are only 2-1/2" tall overall (for 100W RMS/300 peak speaker), I think I can angle them towards the inside of the cab a bit and set them back into the door an inch which would have them only sit about 2" proud max overall from the door face (I think I can push them in further but will finalize once the window and all the other stuff is in the door first). When I have it setup I will take pics and post them as I am also probably going to 3D print the door mounts to ensure fit and function.

[AJT '33]

Well this Saturday was a good day and actually we are starting to get back into the swing of things. Installed a few items and sourced the drain on the battery to the ECM where it seemed to draw about 100 mA when the car was turned off. Doesn't seem like much however that combined with the normal 30 mA that the rest of the system typically draws just sitting there (which I understand can be normal in my setup) basically would drain the battery in about 24 hours. Was going to put a manual cut off switch in that would disconnect the electrical completely however my son suggested that I place it in between the ECM and the battery. Will hide the switch and that allows everything else to still be live however the heart of the system be locked out which would not allow anyone to even boost the car to start without that switch on! That way as well I can use all the electrical features and even if the battery does die, I can put attach my Lithium boost pack and get it running using my remote terminals I'm also installing, another thing solved!
All these details are tough to handle sometimes!!! :)

[FF33rod]

A cutoff switch isn't a bad thing that's for sure. But your battery should last a lot longer with that small draw. A small car battery is about 50 amp-hours. So drawing 130 mA will give over 380 hours of power, that's around 16 days.

[AJT '33]

A cutoff switch isn't a bad thing that's for sure. But your battery should last a lot longer with that small draw. A small car battery is about 50 amp-hours. So drawing 130 mA will give over 380 hours of power, that's around 16 days.

I completely agree, we will definitely be looking into it, it could be the Ford Racing modules that are the power pigs, I am confident my son will track it down.

[CVOBill]

130MA draw is way to much and will kill a battery pretty quick. The pcm shouldn't draw that much for the keep alive memory. I pulled the keep alive memory out of the harness and its on a separate fused circuit so the pcm memory is retained. The engine will start and run better if you don't clear the memory every time.

[AJT '33]

130MA draw is way to much and will kill a battery pretty quick. The pcm shouldn't draw that much for the keep alive memory. I pulled the keep alive memory out of the harness and its on a separate fused circuit so the pcm memory is retained. The engine will start and run better if you don't clear the memory every time.

If you have any pictures or something to show how you done that it would be appreciated. We haven't completed that as we are just getting the final fit up details done for submission to the inspectors. Once that's done we will be all over this like flies on you know what! Your insight and help is appreciated.

[CVOBill]

Andreas, I'm using the Gen 1 Coyote and control pack. If your using the same thing I can help with the keep alive wire. I don't have any info on the Gen 2 but can help figure it out if that is what you have.

[AJT '33]

Andreas, I'm using the Gen 1 Coyote and control pack. If your using the same thing I can help with the keep alive wire. I don't have any info on the Gen 2 but can help figure it out if that is what you have.

Yes, mine is a 2013 coyote (actually out of a 2013 F150 but sets up the same) and were using the Ford Racing M-6017-A504VB control pack. THX!!!

[CVOBill]

Ok I will look at the wiring diagram and get back to you.

[Indigo808]

Thanks for this build post. I have seen a lot of helpful information here. I believe you posted a few pics of your fuel line routes next to your mufflers in a different post. I notice what looks like a diamond pattern heat shield. Can you recall this product? Have you been able to test it yet? Thanks

[AJT '33]

Thanks for this build post. I have seen a lot of helpful information here. I believe you posted a few pics of your fuel line routes next to your mufflers in a different post. I notice what looks like a diamond pattern heat shield. Can you recall this product? Have you been able to test it yet? Thanks

Hey there, I have run it while go karting and was not able to place my hand on the floor due to the heat, then added the heat shield underneath above the muffler and was able to place my hand on it, however its still hot. I have yet to add the additional interior heat shield that came with the components of the car and also the sound dampening insulation on top of that. I would expect with all those layers the heat transfer will be negligible (I don't expect to be sitting at traffic lights too often!). I will know for sure in a couple months when I start the final assembly after paint and will be able to report on it thereafter.

Appreciate your comments and interest, I try and provide my experiences and let others decide what they would like to do.

The heat shield I used underneath is from Design Engineering Inc. (http://designengineering.com/), it worked and stuck very well, as anything its all in the preparation.
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[AJT '33]

Got the final fit on the waterfall with the slots cut. While I continue with other things to get done, need to figure out an elegant way to fill in the slot and create a seal.102562 102563 102564

[AJT '33]

Started setup on the arm rest for the center console. Going to wrap it in copper and use the same black rivets as I used on the firewall to put it together. Black and Copper! 102667 102668 102670102669

[erlihemi]

Got the final fit on the waterfall with the slots cut. While I continue with other things to get done, need to figure out an elegant way to fill in the slot and create a seal.102562 102563 102564
Nice work on the console! If your not putting a slot in the waterfall for the roll bars make sure you finish any wiring for things like power windows, 3rd brake, stereo etc. before final bolt in if you use the hardtop. The waterfall gets trapped by the other interior work also. I think the new HR changed the waterfall construction.

[60's Kid]

Aj---going back to your doors, what were a couple of things that helped the most to correct the problem with the lower drivers door being out of alignment so far. I have the same problem and not sure what to do. A couple of suggestions would be very appreciated.

Rick

[AJT '33]

Aj---going back to your doors, what were a couple of things that helped the most to correct the problem with the lower drivers door being out of alignment so far. I have the same problem and not sure what to do. A couple of suggestions would be very appreciated.

Rick

Hey RIck, I just happened to write this up on another blog where someone else was struggling to get the shell to line up to the body, here it is:

Don't Panic. I ran into the same thing and after numerous attempts and calls with Tony, I finally figured it out and its not that hard, I'll try and describe the process and then hope this helps.
1 - Fit the door shell to the opening without the supporting frame, this will allow you to ensure its alignment, don't worry about the alignment of the door face to the body at this point.
2 - Once the shell is fitted (I kept minimal gaps), get the door support arm fit to the body with all the clearances, then remove it and get the slots in the door aligned so you can get the hinges into the door.
3 - Follow the instructions in the book and other videos to get the door installed with the bear claw latch, DON'T install the strike pin yet.
4 - OK, now using the four 1/2" bolts at the hinge side of the door, loosen and align the rear of the door as close as possible to the body, don't worry about the front at this time. Once aligned now your ready to adjust the front. The rear bracket that sits on the door can be connected to the FG door via a couple 1/4" bolts spaced far apart. This will also hold that alignment and make further minor alignment easier later
5 - Now in the front, where you have the two 3/8" carriage bolts that connect the arm to the plate that's connected to the bear claw latch, dependent on if the top or bottom of the door at the front is misaligned, you will loosen these bolts and carefully add in spacer shims either above (BETWEEN THE PLATES) the top bolt to move (twist) the bottom of the door in or under the bottom bolt to move (twist) the top of the door in. This may take a few tries but be patient, it works and the fiberglass door is flexible enough to take the minor twist to it. Tighten the bolts thereafter to hold it all together (I added only a 3/32" shim on the top to pull the bottom of the door in and the top out splitting the difference and also getting better alignment to the body/frame as well.
6 - Now go back to the rear and, if necessary, lossen either the top or bottom set of bolts to allow you to further move the door shell in or out as necessary. (This is where the two 1/4" bolts come into play to hold the shell to the bracket).
7 - Now your ready to mark, setup and align the front striker pin.

You may need to go back and forth a bit however once aligned when you pull the two rear pivot pins the door goes right back into its place. I know these are broad strokes of an explanation but its easy and it works, I just wish that I had realized this before trying to do the body work as extensively in some areas as I have done. This is also why i tell everyone one to get the body and doors installed and done first so they can cruise through the rest for the most part. I truly hope this helps, I will get some picks of the front shim I put in and edit the post, the doors now close with little to no effort

Regards,

Andreas

[AJT '33]

Well moved along with the console and picked up my copper and started to mount it to the frame I built. Thank god for CAD and the ability to design something and then unfold it to be able to print it, takes out the guessing to get that perfect line. Now will be making the top frame and starting to mount it together. Once done will mount it and figure out how to mount the cover, will want to have it hinged. Will be mounting multiple switches on the angled face for various controls such as high and low beams, door unlocks and power windows.
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[AJT '33]

Lots to post today, 3D printed my third brake light and inserted the light I bought from United Pacific Industries into it. Placed it such that the back of the housing will be flush to the hardtop as well as the soft cover when going topless. I will be snaking the wires through the back of the housing and under the hard top edge or the soft cover to a grommet in the middle of the hard top seal so you can't see them. Will be using automotive adhesive tape to mount the housing. After three randitions, the simple look ended up being the best one. Now to do some smoothing and prep work for paint!
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102935 running light intensity
102936 braking light intensity (if someone can't see that, they should not be driving!!)

[AJT '33]

Well on to the next and possibly last major challenge, the suicide door safety latch. I was going to install an Autloc kit with the aluminum flat bar and pin but space in the door really sucks with power windows. So I packed up what I ordered and returned it ($300 USD) and will be trying another method which I can latch manually, for now, then figure out how I can add a single I will be designing a latch that will swivel on pivot and lock in place and hold the door. the fixture will mount under the dash close to where FFR mounts the hood latch handle, so I will need a lew home for that. I should be able to make it reversible so I can use it on either side. If someone has done something like this then please speak up as I would like to know.

[AJT '33]

Got the copper console welded up, need to take some time this week and sand and polish it all up!
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[AJT '33]

I need to figure out how to replace this switch for the headlights. It also dims the interior lights on the console. I'm not crazy about the look with the nut on the outside.
103502

[HVACMAN]

I need to figure out how to replace this switch for the headlights. It also dims the interior lights on the console. I'm not crazy about the look with the nut on the outside.
103502

How about a headlight switch bezel from Summit, Amazon etc. Just a thought.

[AJT '33]

How about a headlight switch bezel from Summit, Amazon etc. Just a thought.

The question is which one would fit? I actually wouldn't mind as it needs to be marked however fit would be key, might drop a note to Tony Z and see if he he any info on them that got. THX.

[JimLev]

Well on to the next and possibly last major challenge, the suicide door safety latch. I was going to install an Autloc kit with the aluminum flat bar and pin but space in the door really sucks with power windows.

I bought door poppers, don't think I can use them either.
For door safety latches I'm looking at these.
https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/manual-safety-lock-pins/

[wallace18]

Check out Ron Francis or Watson's street works. for light switch options.

https://www.ronfrancis.com
https://watsons-streetworks.com

[AJT '33]

I bought door poppers, don't think I can use them either.
For door safety latches I'm looking at these.
https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/manual-safety-lock-pins/

I looked at those as well however what they don't show is the actuator and how wide it is when installed. With the motor for the power windows in the bottom front of the door, when that actuators is installed it would cover the PW motor. As well the pin may not be long enough to go from the door to the body which is also a problem. I ordered the AUtoloc version and ended up returning it. i would make sure you can return it if it does not fit correctly. I am working on a simple manual one for now and will most likely try and make it convertible to one using an actuator later, we will see.

[JimLev]

I haven't got a far as installing the power window parts yet however I'm pretty sure the motor mounts to the lower rear side of the door. Let me know if I'm wrong.

[AJT '33]

I haven't got a far as installing the power window parts yet however I'm pretty sure the motor mounts to the lower rear side of the door. Let me know if I'm wrong.

Your right, still thinking the traditional way of the way the door swings. Will be interested in how it works out regardless as there is a very limited amount of space in those areas and the length of the pin still may be an issue, may need lengthening.

[AJT '33]

I tried installing the sliding seat racks in the 33. When I tried to install them it did not set it up exactly as they prescribe in the installation instructions, I am wondering others modified their track connections and where the track ended up? I am curious as when I set it up the 2.5" dimension works from the back of the rack for the rear mounting holes and not to the center of the existing mounting hole as in the diagram. As well when I set the seat down, I find that the bolting holes of the second to last crossmember is a better fit to have the seat as far back as possible with a forward travel of ~5". This however requires a new hole in the slider track as well. Would appreciate others experiences in the install and how they look under the foam seat. (sorry forgot to take pics, will add tonight)
PS. did others need to add a 3/8" spacer so the seat frame does not sit on the slider handle?

[JimLev]

Another door thing I just realized.
There is no mention of putting drain holes in the bottom of the doors which might be a good thing to do.
Water from washing the car and getting caught in the rain is sure to get inside the door thru the window slot.

Seat sliders.
I raised mine up, pics should be on my build page.
See post 146, got them here.
https://www.4wd.com/p/mastercraft-safety-seat-bracket-620030/_/R-GNNN-620030

[AJT '33]

Well got into wiring the last of the switch buttons and the relays in their relay boxes. As I changed out a lot of the switches that came from FFR. My son and I both dont like wiring however he is actually good at it!
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[wallace18]

Definitely drill drain holes in bottom of doors.

[AJT '33]

Well when you think your fine sanding theres another area that needs it. soldered the copper together and sanded it to 3000. Now I'll get some buffing paste and polish it up.104062 104063
One small deep cut to fair out and then mark and drill for all the button switches.

[JOP33]

Well when you think your fine sanding theres another area that needs it. soldered the copper together and sanded it to 3000. Now I'll get some buffing paste and polish it up.104062 104063
One small deep cut to fair out and then mark and drill for all the button switches.

Nice work! That is outstanding.

[AJT '33]

You know you must be getting closer to completing all the details when you start searching for details to finish!! Worked on adding some hidden space (well not so hidden since I am showing it here!!) to allow for some additional storage. Made the templates in cardboard the way I would want to make it out of 0.040" aluminum so I could simply use cardboard as a cut template. I sealed the outside and the inside joints and will be spraying it with gravel guard.
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My wife suggested adding some thin insulation and using it for a small cooler for sandwiches and "drinks" when we go on outings... can't say that's not a great idea!!

Will be working out the attachment with a seal and that will be done. On to adding my windshield washer bottle and sprayer (found some really cool low profile sprayers, will get pics soon) with the hoses tomorrow and then the trunk and hood release. Once those are in I get the mirrors on and basically I will be good to do the last fairing of the body aaannnnnndddd... off to paint!!!!! (Can't believe I actually wrote that finally!!) Would really like to have everything painted and back in the shop by the Easter weekend. Crossing my fingers!!

[AJT '33]

Continuing to make progress, got the rear trunk cable and latch in while I was prepping my third brake light housing I designed and 3D printed. Looks good just need a few touch ups and it'll be ready for paint.
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[AJT '33]

You get to a point in the build where you sit back and look at what you accomplished and say to yourself, damn my son and I did good!! You look at the car knowing that there was a whole lot of work that went into it so far.
104529
You then look around and feel good that you cleaned up the mess and look forward to a dust free shop. As I look around I then see the two sets of "TO DO" lists on the garage door and realize your actually close to the end... well almost!!!
104530
104531
Spring is near and I can't wait to be comfortable enough to get the body and other parts to paint so we can clean up the rest!!! SOONER THAN LATER!!

[FF33rod]

Andreas, looking darn fine and just a couple pages of "to do" is indeed very close to the end! What will you do with all the extra time on your hands when you're done ? ;)

[AJT '33]

Andreas, looking darn fine and just a couple pages of "to do" is indeed very close to the end! What will you do with all the extra time on your hands when you're done ? ;)

Enjoy it then start looking at possibly a 35 truck for the wife or a Ford COE to haul it if we do longer trips!! :)

[AJT '33]

Progress and more progress, I hope all the prep work that my son and I are doing will pay off, I think it will. My son came by and did the testing of the wiring he setup and everything tested properly. Now to get the right size fuses and that should be good.
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Now to get the various templates for covers done and we should be good to pick off a few more items!

[AJT '33]

Further progress and whittling down the list, got the big ticket item done in the fitting of the side windows. The fit was still tight even with the replacement windows from FFR. So I took a chance and decided to remove about an eighth from the bottom corners where it was too tight to my liking. After using my mini belt sander I was able to feather it down and still had a good solid feel to the fiberglass (I was hoping it was thicker as corners usually get over laminated and have thicker fiberglass) which seems to be the case in the areas I "adjusted".

Before adjustment
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After adjustment
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I will need to re-sand and primer those areas but my specialist can do that when he comes to do the final "smoothing out" with me.

Further work on the list still to be done and currently on track to have it completed by the weekend so we can do final checks to be able to do the final body fairing next week then off to black polyurethane primer!

[AJT '33]

Everyday closer and another challenge. As I have a hood that is made for the extra clearance, it is different than that of the standard hoods so it does not have the dual rib running down the middle. Now I have to figure out how to install the prop rod on this style of hood. Send a note to FFR so we will see what they come back with too.
105136 105137
Versus whats in the book. 105138

UPDATE: Well heard back from FFR and apparently the standard hood prop does not work with the raised hood. Tony suggested/says mounting it across the firewall as he had done on their flame 33 and others. They did it on their corporate 33.
105208

[AJT '33]

Well thought i was done with dust for the most part but no.... Oh well just means were that much closer to final primer before paint!
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[AJT '33]

SANDING IS DONE... for now... well once the base primer is on then I will still need to sand to 800 before base color then clear. Oh yeah, then will be sanding clear to 5000 then buff and shine, guess I am not finished after all but the "FUN" sanding starts now.
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[AJT '33]

Body rack modified for painting and transpotting the parts to be painted. Also made on for the hard top for painting and probably for hard top storage later. Got moving dolly's cheap for the base. Going to make a door cart as well.
106045

[AJT '33]

All ready to go for the last primer today!
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I even started cleaning the rest to see what it would look like under all the dust and got a little excited!!
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[AJT '33]

Well, went from Camouflage colored finish to a solid black base polyurethane primer, 3 coats, last night! Stressful to get to the point of painting but happy with the final result. Found some minor nicks and pinholes that should be easily taken care of with localized touch up before a full sand down with 400 and then 600 grit dry paper (may do a wet sand in place not sure yet). All in all a late night of painting (till 2am), but happy with the results so far. Now to get the sanding done and off to the base color coat and then the final 3-4 coats of Show klear from HOK.
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The next couple of weeks will be hectic for sure!

[wallace18]

Looks Fantastic!

[FF33rod]

Damn, looking good!

[AJT '33]

Everyone is home again!!
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Now to sand it all once I get back home from fighting the 100 year floods we are having here again!!

[AJT '33]

Well, build has come to a screeching halt as I contend with flood waters at my home I own with my brother just west of Montreal. Seeing 100 year flood levels again this year like in 2017 but lasting longer to recede, this sucks and mother nature needs to take a holiday!!! Hopefully we will be able to get back to working on the The Mistress sooner than later.
106624 View of the front of the house
106625 View up the road (there is ~42" over the road)

[FF33rod]

I feel for you Andreas. That sucks. I have a buddy who lives on a river outside Ottawa. So far his place is okay but in general it's really bad....

[AJT '33]

Well after spending ten days at our other home making sure the waters were at a manageable level and the pumps controlled the water in the basement (its only 54" so no damage) I am finally back to work on my toy.

After searching and researching sandpaper (never realized what an impact automotive sandpaper has versus what you get in the store!!), i picked up some Norton "Dry Ice" 400 and 600 2-3/4" wide rolls of sandpaper. Also got a conversion strip for my sanding blocks to go from a sticky paper to a velcro based paper, very cool. This paper cut quick, you need to clean it frequently, but it reduces the effort substantially and does a phenomenal job, well work the $34CDN a roll!

Also before sanding, took a n LED light and marked each location that has any size of pinhole that appeared after laying down the KD3001 HOK black primer. There will be some areas where I will need to do a small repair and others where just sanding down the primer will take care of that irregularity. All the prep work was well worth the effort to get to this point. You have one shot to get it right, its worth going the extra few miles to get it right. This primer sand amazingly well and the Norton sandpaper makes a huge difference on it, I tried another sticky brand however that clogged up and started rolling the dust nearly right away unlike the Norton paper would take a bit longer and would clean much easier. Dry sanding based on my painters recommendation, would have wet sanded but I can ow see not only the difference but also how you can better visually manage how much sanding you need to do to obtain that clean smooth surface. It'll be a few weeks of sanding to the two levels however if all goes well in two weeks we will be spending the weekend in a paint show getting that color and Show Klear down!!!

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Typical small pinholes to repair prior to sealing and paint (these are the two worst ones others are mostly dimples)
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[ztoolman44]

Amazing build. Thanks to you and all those who take the time to share the photos.

Glad to see you weathered the storm.

[AJT '33]

Haven't posted in the last little while as I am still sanding and correcting those unnerving little details. That, combined with finalizing the sale of my kids home and getting them moved out and into their new home (unfortunately taking our grandchildren across the country, which means I need to get this done to have a distraction for both my wife and myself), has taken me away from getting further along. Will be bringing the car to a local Honda dealer where my son knows the owner to do the alignment. The good news is that it is a straight drive on type so it sits at floor level so no worries of anything scraping or hitting the frame. Will do it with the body off and then probably once more when everything is assembled and complete to tweak it in.
108322

I never realized the true difference in sanding primer with 400 and 600 dry Norton sandpaper (I have tried others but the Norton sandpaper takes a lot longer to start to clog up which makes a HUGE difference) versus wet sanding until doing this work. It's more work in one way (and messier), however in another you can see the progress better as your sanding down the primer, so you can limit the amount of sanding before going too far and cutting through the medium build primer. Consistently using a long sanding block helps as it also makes a big difference in removing those waves in the finish and having the body and other parts as smooth as possible.
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I also got the road to my shop finally dug out and covered in gravel so no more mud and gunk in the tores, just some gravel which can be cleaned off easily enough!! Most likely will pave the main strip at one point as well once the funds all it!
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The next few months will be very exciting for sure!!

[AJT '33]

So you know its getting real when you can go ahead and get the car on the alignment machine. My son coordinated with a garage beside his to get the car on roll on alignment machine. Close to 2 hours later and three resets of the machine (front was that far out!! :) ) and a base alignment is done. Now once the whole car is assembled we will need to return and redo the alignment but that should only be a half hour of work as the setup and program are already in the computer.
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We used a Shelby Cobra GT baseline however my son ended up tweaking it a bit. We will most likely use a F150 baseline as we will be able to get the proper caster setup without the machine screaming at us. Very cool technology used today!

Now to get the body and other parts painted possibly this weekend, getting very itchy now to get this thing done!!

[AJT '33]

Well this week should be very interesting. Nearly completed the setup for the last touch ups of all the parts that will be painted the Jet Black from HOK. Added barrier walls along with all the wall filters and floor evac fans to allow the proper air flows and limit any residual fume. Discovered plastic abatement tape which sticks to everything (It sticks to concrete as well) however does not leave residue behind when removed. All setup and ready for the last touch ups and primer this week and hopefully color and clear at the end of this week or this Saturday!!
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108997Taped to the concrete floor 108998 Also built all the support stands to ease painting
This is the abatement tape roll 108999

[progmgr1]

I'm curious about the tape. Did you get it at the local Big Box Store or some specialty place?
Keith

[AJT '33]

I'm curious about the tape. Did you get it at the local Big Box Store or some specialty place?
Keith

I actually bought it at a local Abatement company that specializes in abatement supplies. My son-in-law who was with an insulation company, used it to stick to floors, wood studs etc... to keep the spray foam from getting on the surrounding area, he left me a roll and told me where to get it locally. It virtually sticks to anything. I paid $10 CDN a roll for 60 yards of 3" tape https://www.echotape.com/products/vi-n6120-no-residue-poly-vinyl-tape/ is the link for the company, you can source it in your area.

[peterh226]

That is quite a setup. I’m try to determine what to do in my garage. I think I’ll need to have a pipe frame with the plastic. Is you air coming from the top and then out the sides?

[AJT '33]

That is quite a setup. I’m try to determine what to do in my garage. I think I’ll need to have a pipe frame with the plastic. Is you air coming from the top and then out the sides?

I ended up setting it up as a cross draft system, the bulk of the coarse filters on the far end and the fans on the opposite side with finer filters on the side that can be uncovered if needed. I have three 24" 3 speed fans on the ground opposite of the coarse filters, will see if I need to raise them or not to ensure a good draw of the fume away from the parts. Was going to run large ducting on the floor to draw down and away from the parts however decided I was going overboard. Will see how it works tonight when we do some more touch up primer and then can see the fume movement.