Rob's MKIV Build. Base Kit 427

[robertjamesellis]

Hello Everyone

My MKIV is on the truck and on its way from Stewart Transportation. They tell me its 10-14 days for delivery so I'm spending the weekend tidying up the garage in anticipation. I done basic maintenance on cars all my life, but something like this is a big step for me. Although, I'm not shy about diving in to projects and getting them done so I'm very excited to start this build. However, I'm hoping everyone on here can provide some guidance and help. I've been reading through these forums and re-reading the manual in anticipation. however, I don't think it will all "Gel" for me until I actually pull that first wrench out and start. I've been looking for a great sport convertible and could never find anything that stacks up to a Cobra and being the ultimate DIY'r, I think this project is right up my alley.

Here's what I ordered. I hope it makes sense in the end!

Base Kit
IRS
Power Steering
Race Seats
17" Halibrand Tires
Heater
Dual Chrome Roll Bars
Will wood brake kits

Mike Forte has been great and is putting together my Ford Racing 427 small block. Went with traditional Carb and a Tremec TK0-600.

I'm hoping to end up with something I can cruise around in and has a little pep in its step. I went with the base kit thinking I'll want to upgrade as much as I can along the way to really make it the car of my dreams.

I've been trying to prep for things I will need and have my first question for the experience of the forum. I am looking for the IRS differential and don't really know where to go for this. Any suggestions? Also, I was thinking of adding the front and back sway bars. Yes/No? What is the prevailing train of thought.

Looking forward to posting pictures as I move along. And sharing my experience and reading about others.

[wareaglescott]

Welcome to the forum and good luck with the build. Looking forward to following along.
I did the front and rear sway bars. My MK4 is the only one I have ever driven so I can really speak on whether they were worth it or not as I have nothing to compare it to. The car corners very nicely though and I notice essentially zero body roll.

Were are you located at?
I have had my first opportunity to drive in colder weather this week. I was thinking about the heater yesterday actually and was thinking to myself there is so much airflow within the cockpit from outside air I cant imagine the heater would do me any good for warming effect if I had it. I originally ordered a heater but changed course mid build for seat heaters and really like those. Of course if you are going with some sort of top the heater would work great in that situation.

Also sit in your seats when you first get them. By race seats I assume you mean the Kirkeys. FFR only sells one width. 16" between the side bolsters. I am 6'3" and 215 and they are a snug fit for me. The 17" seat will also fit in the MK4 and offers a little more room. I did not realize that another seat width was an option when I ordered. If you decide you might like that extra inch Im sure you could return them and source your own. Summit actually had a better price on them than FFR when I looked.

The build is an awesome experience and the pride you will feel driving the car your built is amazing. Have fun!

[mach'er]

Hey Rob,
Welcome to the party. I'm thinking a 427W is going to give you a bit more than a little "pep in the step"! There's a bunch of us in the early stages of build, including at least one donor kit. The help you can get here is great, just ask.

I'm going to shoot you a PM with where I got my IRS and rear knuckles (don't want to break any rules about naming non-preferred vendors - better safe than sorry).

You didn't list a location, that I see anyway. You might even find that you have other FFR builds in your area, and be able to expand your FFR network that way as well.

--Curt

[broku518]

Hi Rob,
My kit is on that truck as well! Are you in GA? If so I am right after you...waiting here in IL :cool:

Welcome, guys here are great!
Martin

[GoDadGo]

A Fantastic Journey Is About To Start!

Congratulations From The Big Easy!

[robertjamesellis]

Hey War Eagle,

I've looked at your build thread several times and you put together an amazing ride! I'm in San Ramon in the East Bay of San Francisco. It gets a little chilly in the morning and I know I'll want to drive it as much as possible so my thinking was better to have the heater and not use it, than need it and not have it. I think the seat heaters are a great idea and I'm adding them to my list. Also, decided to go with the sway bars so time to order those up. Also, thanks for the heads up on the seats. I'm 6'3" 230 and if they are snug for you I know they are going to be even snugger for me. First thing I'm doing is sitting down in those seats!

Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated.

[robertjamesellis]

Curt,
Thanks for the PM. Nice to have the help of this forum to reach out to. Give me the extra confidence to take this one.

Rob

[robertjamesellis]

Hi Martin,

Looks like we are probably on the same truck. However I'm actually in the East Bay of San Francisco so I imagine I"m probably last off the truck. You'll get a bit of a head start on me. Good luck on your build and keep me posted!

Rob

[Yama-Bro]

Congrats! I'll be watching along as you build.

[awd-turbo]

Awesome... And welcome... You pretty much have the build that I just completed... Mike is great... Any questions on anything shoot me a pm. Wiring was my biggest challenge, but once I got it all done it made complete sense.

Brian

[broku518]

Hi Martin,

Looks like we are probably on the same truck. However I'm actually in the East Bay of San Francisco so I imagine I"m probably last off the truck. You'll get a bit of a head start on me. Good luck on your build and keep me posted!

Rob

Hi Rob,

I should be getting a call today about the ETA delivery time. This forum is great. I love the pics and helpful hints. My garage is certainly ready!

[JRL16]

Congrats and enjoy the experience. You can get a lot of help and answers to anything you run into here. Not many people get to build their own dream car so enjoy.

[Jim1855]

Rob,
I'll have a full diff assembly available in a week. Iron case, 3.55s, traction-loc, new to the best of my knowledge as it came with the unassembled car I purchased. I switched units and will need to move this one. PM if interested.
Jim

[Papa]

Welcome! I've been building my car since June and I'm having a blast. The help available from this Forum is priceless! As for sourcing the IRS, have you looked as eBay? I see a lot of them available for very good prices. Here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-2016-2017-Mustang-GT-IRS-8-8-SVT-Complete-3-55-gear-Independent-Rear-End-5k/152749192713?hash=item23908fb609:g:Rs4AAOSwXrdZ6AW P&vxp=mtr

Dave

[dncharo]

Hi Rob,
Welcome! It looks like you are pretty close to us! We are in Lafayette and just got our car a couple months ago so are pretty early in the build (and slow). Let me know if we can help you out at all!
-David

[robertjamesellis]

Ok. Still waiting on the truck. Got held up and now delivery is scheduled for around Thursday. I've taken the time to order up some things and get my buck and garage ready. Picked up a Torsen differential and IRS Spindles. Also got word from Mike Forte my motor was ready. Here's what he put together for me. Also picked up a mechanical fuel pump from him.
Boss 427
- Edelbrock Performer Intake
- Ford Racing Cam
- Ford Racing Z-Heads
- Pertronix Ignitor 3 Ignition
- Quickfuel 680 Carb
Horsepower = 465.4 @ 5500 RPM
Torque = 490.1 ft/lb. @ 4000 RPM

Looks like not much else to do but sit and wait! Guess I'll read through more threads and the manual while I'm sitting in my garage waiting. :)7646476465

[Straversi]

Welcome aboard! Sounds like it will have more than a little pep it its step. Have fun.
-Steve

[robertjamesellis]

Hi David,

I'm keeping an eye on your build. With you being a couple months ahead of me and just down the road, I'm hoping to follow along and learn from you. I am sure I'll have some questions along the way!
Rob

[BB767]

Hi Rob, welcome. Nice to see a few more builders in northern California, looking forward to meeting you someday at a Nor-Cal car event! I am just east of you in the foothills after leaving the Bay area 20 years ago! On the heater, good choice in my opinion. I have had many convertibles in California and I use the heater a LOT! I am not a fan of seat heaters so the little bit of warm air that does circulate in the cockpit really helps take the edge off on those crisp mornings or when driving home later than planned, especially if the wife is along! Enjoy the build, for me it's been a blast so far!

[robertjamesellis]

So I've finished my inventory and found a few parts missing. Gotta say Factory Five is on top of it and already have those parts shipping out to me. I took the opportunity while speaking with them to order up front and back sway bars. Also, I don't know what I was thinking but I only ordered the rear Willwood brakes and now need the front. I explained the situation to my wife and she gave me that look. You know, like I just spent our vacation money on a pair set of brakes and she can't figure out whats in it for her! I also ordered up Russ's drop trunk kit and am going to head over there this weekend to pick it up.

Now that I've been poking around I've added a few other items to my list. Going to move the batter to the front and need that kit. Also need to order up a pedal box. Are there any other options that have worked for folks other than the Factory Five? I have no problem going with the Willwood set and getting all the parts I need from FF but just wanted to know if there were other options available. Also planning on getting the hydraulic clutch after reading through all the threads. Seems like its a good idea as driving in the Bay Area requires a lot of stop and go until you can get out of the congestion.

While waiting on the rest of the goodies I'm going to put all my panels in place and drill as many holes as possible. Started that last night and making progress. Feels good to actually being something rather than reading. I'm planning on getting all of them powder coated black. Also got myself some Lizard skin that I"m going to put on the underside of all panels showing under the car. Figure that would provide a little more protection and sound barrier.

Finally decided I'm going to go for Black with Orange stripes. I like the look of Wareaglescotts car and that orange strip but need to stay true to my OSU Beavers and go Black and Orange. Having fun so far!!767917679276793

[robertjamesellis]

So I'be been making some progress since my last post. I've got all my panels drilled and now I just need to clean them up a bit and get them powder coated. Others were correct in saying not to worry about marketing the panels. After drilling all those holes you really get to know every panel well. I feel very confident in being able to get it all of them back on without a problem. I took the opportunity to get my F-Panels powder coated while drilling the holes in the other panels. Took about two days and they came back looking great. I ordered up some black rivets and used those to install the F-Panels. It felt really good to actually attach something!!! My wife came out and said I was too messy and helped me clean up the frame and vacuum up all the shavings from the drilling. I got the Front Lower Control arms on without much problem. I was a little confused about the spacers and ended up using one of the large washers that seemed to fill the gap nicely.

I then read through the sway bar instructions and realized I should have left the front bolts off. Oh well. Two steps forward and one step back! I guess my excitement to actually start building got the best of me.

Question for everyone. Has anyone stored the body outside? I put it outside and put plastic wrap all over it to protect it. I can't think of any issues with this as its perfectly water-tight at this time. But thought I would reach out to the experience of everyone else. I'm not worried about much getting to it other than the rain.77305773067730777308

[robertjamesellis]

Look what came today!!! My 427. Also got my Tremec TKO-600. That beast773387733977340 looks way big to get into that little engine compartment but I'm sure it will fit somehow. I love all these nice packages arriving. Best Christmas Ever!

[robertjamesellis]

Making slow but steady progress. After applying the POR-15 this weekend, I Had my son help me lift the differential into place this evening. Found out quickly he didn't know the difference between a crescent wrench and channel locks while I was busy holding it in place. I think he was testing how the old mans strength was still holding up! I think I got lucky though, because once it lined up, all the bolts went into place pretty smoothly. Got them all torqued per specs. Hoping to get the rest of the IRS in place in the next couple of days. Also cleaning up all the panels to get to the powder coater before the weekend. Still waiting for backordered parts. The front upper control arms weren't in my packaging although FF marked them as shipped so I'm still waiting on those. Also need to order up the front wilwood brakes and pedal box. Trying to think ahead of the things I might need so I'm not too slowed down. 774527745377454

[robertjamesellis]

Started making some progress this weekend on the IRS and Brakes. Didn't have too much trouble although, I found the bolts lengths in the kits didn't match up exactly with the bolt lengths as described in the instructions. So I spent probably a good hour looking at all the installed bolts and measuring them to make sure I didn't make a big mistake and have to back out and swap a bunch. Found out that many supplied bolts were just a half inch longer than the bolts described in the instructions. I didn't see any interference anywhere or did I see any short bolt problems. So decided all is okay and just forged ahead.

The Wilwood brakes went on great. Ended up not needing any shims on the bracket to get them centered and the recommended two shims lined up the pads with the rotor perfectly. Got it all on and was happy with the result. Put on a rear wheel to check for clearance and all was good. Also that fat tire look way cool sitting there! Made me feel like I was actually getting somewhere!

I have a question on the supplied Wilwood brake lines. The short line out of the brakes. Does that need any type of sealer or do most just screw it in the side? In my base kit, it came with FF supplied leaders and brackets but I didn't use those. But have others used the brackets to attach the Wilwood lines? The pictures recommend routing towards the bottom of the Koni's without a bracket but I've seen others attach a bracket. What is the recommended was to install these?

Next steps are ordering up the Front Wilwoods, Pedal Box and Front Spindles so I can wrap that up and then route brake lines. Reading through EdwardB's thread, I like the Stainless steel lines and plan on doing that. Time to go shopping again!
7768477685776867768777688

[Wildwap63]

Just got approved to post. I got my kit delivered in June, right after I retired. Didn't have the garage cleared out yet so it sat on the side of the house til I bought an enclosed car trailer to keep everything in. Southern Ca. so sorry if our weather permits stuff outside. Got a job offer right after I got back from first vacation in awhile, so build was on hold til a couple of weeks ago. I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the order, because there have been some hiccups already, two weeks in. I'm sure FFR will get things corrected, but I already built a body buck and have started the front suspension. 1st hiccup. Somehow I got pin drive lower A arms (don't know if I ordered it, but don't even know what the pin drive front suspension is? Some help? Anyway, I was scratching my head with why the spindles were pointing down at a 15 degree angle til a friend in Huntington Beach (way more knowledgeable than me) suggested I measure them. Mystery solved, so I will call tomorrow and try to correct my screwup. Anyway, if there are any new builders in the San Bernardino, Riverside or Orange County area of So Cal that are in the build process or have finished, I could use some assistance. Thanks to all,
Bill

[robertjamesellis]

Hey Bill,

Congrats on starting your build. I'm sure you will enjoy it as much as everyone else on here has. Yes, here are often a couple mix-ups on the shipments but I've found FF to be very responsive with any shipping errors and getting parts out to you. I'm still waiting on a few backordered parts but other than that, they've helped me out. You'll find lots of help on this forum from experienced builders. A few who have done a few builds and know all the tips and trips. I would check them out for help along the way, I know I've used Edwardbs, Jazzmans and wareaglescotts build threads and guidance for me. They've all done a great job of documenting every detail and I often read, reread and read again to know what to expect and check my own work. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions!

Rob

[Wildwap63]

Happy New Year Rob,
I am still trying to navigate this forum. Thanks for responding. Worked on the car during the holidays. Tackled the wiring harnesses and fuel tank. Still waiting on the trans, Center section, rear brakes and spindles (IRS rear suspension). Found out today FFR gave me motor mounts for a 302, not the Cleveland I told them I was installing. Come to find out, they don't have any support for the 351C so I hope the chassis isn't going to require modifications. That would suck. Gonna have to find someone to build the headers custom. Oh well, if it was easy my grandson would be building it (he's 7).

[Wildwap63]

Hey Rob,
Sorry for not checking out your earlier posts. The 427 is awesome! I really like the serpentine set-up. Do you happen to know who builds that? I haven't gotten that far yet. My 351C is just a long block. In retrospect, I probably should have gone that way. There are very few parts for Clevelands, but I'm told it should really run.
Bill

[Straversi]

Merry Christmas! That's a nice looking motor. Not sure if I understand our question about brakes, but I put Permatex thread sealant on the fitting threads that screw into the brake calipers. No sealant required on the other end, the -3 AN threads that connects to the stainless flex lines. The fitting that connects the stainless flex lines to the hard brake lines that you bend yourself, that fitting is connected to your chassis with the supplied brackets.
-Steve

[robertjamesellis]

Hey Bill,

Sounds like you are moving along. Well ahead of me. I got the 427 from Mike Forte. I ordered up the engine and transmission from him and had him build it out for me. It just wasn't something I wanted to tackle at this time. He did a great job and I'm looking forward to the day I can fire it up!

Rob

[robertjamesellis]

Merry Christmas Steve,

Thanks for the info and responding. I figured things out after reading through several of the forums. I almost made the mistake of adding some teflon, my habits from working on the so much plumbing, but resisted and got things together. I found the brackets in the kit and got everything mounted. I think some of my confusion is coming from the Basic Kit manual I'm reading through, and trying to mesh that together with the complete kit manual I have in pdf form and reading through other build threads. Good thing I like puzzles! Its coming together nice though.

Rob

[robertjamesellis]

Been chugging along a little. not making as fast progress and other but I'm happy with things. Part of the challenge of the base kit is not having everything in boxes around me. So I spend a lot of time looking through what I have and what I need and sorting it all out. Have to admit its probably the part I like and shopping around for parts in advance of me needing them. So I find myself spending more time reading and reasearching than working.

managed to get all the suspension in over the holiday weekend. No major problems along the way. I ordered the FF front spindles and hubs as they seemed to be the best solution and best fit for the front suspension. I got those delivered right before the new year holiday so put those in. Added on the Wilwood front brakes and they look sharp. I got a little confused by the front upper control arms as they pointed front and back. I didn't notice a Right or Left version so just assumed this gets straightened out during alignment. if anyone knows otherwise, I would appreciate the heads up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78629&d=1514960272
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78628&d=1514960272

Ordered up Fuel Tank and install kit, battery box, and back compartment from Breeze, Lokar ebrake I'm not happy with the location on the passenger side. I'm planning on mounting on transmission tunnel top. Still waiting for the power steering from FF and my brake reservoir as I want to do all my brake line and fuel line runs next. Found a neighbor during a New Year's party who does wiring and wants to help with the harness. So should have some expert help with that. Things are coming together.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78630&d=1514960272
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78627&d=1514960260
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78626&d=1514960257

[edwardb]

I have a question on the supplied Wilwood brake lines. The short line out of the brakes. Does that need any type of sealer or do most just screw it in the side? In my base kit, it came with FF supplied leaders and brackets but I didn't use those. But have others used the brackets to attach the Wilwood lines? The pictures recommend routing towards the bottom of the Koni's without a bracket but I've seen others attach a bracket. What is the recommended was to install these?
7768477685

You're making good progress. Looks like you received an answer about the sealant. But just to be clear. The 1/8-27 NPT fitting on the Wilwood calipers, using the supplied Wilwood flex lines, does require sealant. I typically use Permatex or Loctite thread sealant. The -AN fitting on the other end does not.

You should have received tabs in your kit to mount the chassis fitting for the flex lines. You need to mount them where they provide adequate clearance for the wheel and suspension to move, and also to be accessible for the brake lines on the other side. My build thread shows pretty clearly where I mounted mine for both front and back. I chose those locations after looking at multiple build threads and also FF’s 2015+ IRS setup. In the complete kit, FF does provide flex lines, brackets, etc. Sounds like your base kit did as well. However when you order the upgraded Wilwood setup like you have, it has its own flex lines. Use the Wilwood ones.

In the pictures of your IRS, I see you don’t have the tech change that FF made a couple years ago. Not long after the new IRS came out. Unfortunately, not every instruction has been updated. You should have a large washer between the bolt end and the adapter pieces. They also provide a newer longer adapter that gives additional clearance. You might have that, I’m not sure. But you don’t have the large washer. This is a screen capture of the updated instructions in some of the documentation. I think it's a safety concern, so highly recommend you implement that change.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IRS_UCA_zpsgw5ycivu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IRS_UCA_zpsgw5ycivu.jpg.html)


I got a little confused by the front upper control arms as they pointed front and back. I didn't notice a Right or Left version so just assumed this gets straightened out during alignment. if anyone knows otherwise, I would appreciate the heads up.

Correct. There is no left and right upper control arm. They’re both the same. The fixed portion will be on the front on one side and the back on the other. It’s not a problem. Looks like you have them assembled properly.

[robertjamesellis]

Thanks for taking a look and he heads up. You are right in that I was missing the washer. I went ahead and put that on. I also reviewed your thread earlier and mounted my tabs for the flexible brakes lines exactly where you did. I've used your thread often to help me out. I find it to be much more complete than the manual. Thanks for taking the time to do that and help all us newbies out here!

[robertjamesellis]

So I spent the weekend working on some odds and ends and getting the e-brake in. I wanted to move it from the side to the top of the tunnel and read through how everyone else was doing. I started by cutting off the old bracket and grinding down the stumps. I got those cleaned up ok and got the edges painted.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78894&d=1515468239http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78893&d=1515468221

I then attached a 3/4" rail cross member and attached two base plates running from beam to beam. I left them low of the top to give me room for the tunnel cover to fit over the Lokar e-brake bolts without them hitting the cover. I bolted the Lokar e-brake to that and actually put a couple extra washers under the front to nose it up bit for even more clearance on the handle if I needed it. I mounted it as far right as I could get it to keep everything out of the way.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78891&d=1515468173http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78892&d=1515468200

I then cut off the old cable bracket and fabricated a new one that sits farther back. I still used my wilwood e-brake cables and didn't modify or change them out. I kept checking the location to make sure I was straight into the e-brake and also high and tight of the tunnel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78897&d=1515468273

In the end I think it came out well. With three clicks of the e-brake I get those wilwoods locking up the rotors tight. I'm hoping this works well when I have some weight to the car. So far so good. Now onto the brake lines.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78896&d=1515468264http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78895&d=1515468251

[Mark Eaton]

That looks good Rob. I hadn't even thought of doing it that way

Mark

[wareaglescott]

Looks good.
Any concern with the shifter interfering with that cross bar you put in?

[Boydster]

Yeah, if your shifter is going traditional, there's no room for it.

[robertjamesellis]

Yes, I measured and with the rear shifter installed on my TKO600 I know its going to hit it. I plan on flipping the rear shift to gain a little room and if that doesn't work, modify to a mid-shift design. When I'm sitting in it, I think the mid-shift would suit me better anyway so I'm pretty sure I'm going that route regardless. I may have to modify the other cross bar but that should be straightforward.

[wareaglescott]

Yes, I measured and with the rear shifter installed on my TKO600 I know its going to hit it. I plan on flipping the rear shift to gain a little room and if that doesn't work, modify to a mid-shift design. When I'm sitting in it, I think the mid-shift would suit me better anyway so I'm pretty sure I'm going that route regardless. I may have to modify the other cross bar but that should be straightforward.

Cool. One other thing to consider. When I put my TKO in I took the cover piece and shifter nub out for clearance getting it into the car. Mine was hooked up to a Coyote so you may not have such a tight fit and need to do this at all. IF you do just consider being able to access the bolts on the top of the transmission that you need to loosen/tighten to remove that plate.

[robertjamesellis]

Scott,

Thanks for the heads up! I will keep that in mind when I'm installing everything. I'm unashamed in admitting that I find great comfort in reading through everyone else's experience to help me avoid pitfalls and complications you have already experienced! I appreciate all the help and tips!

Rob

[wareaglescott]

Scott,

Thanks for the heads up! I will keep that in mind when I'm installing everything. I'm unashamed in admitting that I find great comfort in reading through everyone else's experience to help me avoid pitfalls and complications you have already experienced! I appreciate all the help and tips!

Rob

Best part of the forum is learning the easy way from someone else learning the hard way! haha
I seriously have no clue how anyone built these things before the forum.

[robertjamesellis]

Not a lot going on this weekend as I'm waiting on some key parts. Need power steering rack, waiting for panels to come back from powder coat, and waiting on gas tank and fittings from breeze. I did start looking at my brake lines and recieved my coiled stainless lines. Not wanting to spend $100 each on two separate straighteners I did some research and came up with my own straightener for about $30 in parts. Found everything I need at HD, metal screen door wheels, threaded rods and bolts and some 1" square tube. I drilled measured and marked holes for the bolts to hold the wheels keeping them as close to the edge of the rail as possible. I then welded a bottom rail to one of the drilled rails for a vice clamp hold. I drilled holes on each end for the threaded rod. on the bottom I welded the nut to the rail. And on the top, I welded the nut to the threaded rod so the nuts spin with the rod. Now with a wrench on the top nut I can adjust the span on the wheels to get a nice clamp on the brake line. I tested with my 3/16" brake line and it worked like a champ. Straightened that sucker out with some easy pushes and pulls on the brake line. I'm sure something like this has been shared already in the forums somewhere but wanted to pass along in case somebody else had a wild creative hair and some bendy brake lines they wanted straightened out. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79325&d=1516046996 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79326&d=1516047002 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79327&d=1516047008

[Straversi]

Pretty cool. Love to see home made solutions. Nice work.
-Steve

[robertjamesellis]

Been a couple weeks since my last post. Been waiting on parts and some finally came. So this weekend was busy putting in some brake lines, power steering, firewall, and heater core. I liked Paul's stainless lines so ran those with some nice clips. I actually spent time threading the holes on the clips so I can back them out if needed to make any adjustments on the lines. I think it looked better int he ends with the hex screws but more based on fear that if I screwed something up I could take it apart a lot easier and replace if needed. I ended up with a t in the back line with one coupler underneath. No couplers on the front lines and ran a T off the front wilwood flex line. Now just need to mount up the Reservoirs. I finally received 2 that I ordered from FF. I know I need one more and was pondering just going with the CNC but after getting the FF I really like the looks of them. So next steps are to rig up a mounted bracket and get them all hooked up and connected to the wilwood cylinders. I'm excited to actually get this done as this will be the first real component thats finished.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79945&d=1517195847
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http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79944&d=1517195838

[robertjamesellis]

I also installed the power steering rack. It seemed straight forward until I looked at the bolts and the shims were way to big for the bolts. Well, thanks again to this forum, I found out I needed to knock out the old bushings and replace with the ones from the kit. Did that and it fit great!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79949&d=1517195881

That is until I tried to install the tie rods and noticed they didn't seem to have enough length on the rods. I sat there confused for 5 minutes trying to figure it out and then went back to the forum. Of course the answer was already there with Paul's advice to not forget to install the tie rod extenders. Of course I had forgot. Its probably a lot easier to do this when its off but I wasn't going to go through all that so I managed to get them installed with the rack in place. I cut off about 1", not the full 1.75" recommended in the manual. Figure I can always cut later when I'm roughing in the alignment. But everything looked good after and steering worked.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79940&d=1517195739
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79939&d=1517195731
I then felt good about putting riveting in the fire wall. To be perfectly honest, I was more excited to see how my orange rivets looked in contrast to the gloss black powder coat on the panels and thing it looks great! Just what I was after. Thanks to others who have tried this and passed along the idea.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79954&d=1517195927
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79955&d=1517195934
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79950&d=1517195889

[robertjamesellis]

Next, I installed the heater core to ensure fit and felt like it was a pretty good weekend all in all. One tip to others, the instructions say to install the grommets first and then put the heater core in place. I put the grommets on after putting the copper through the holes and it went in a lot easier. A little high temp silicone and screws back in place and its good to go. I know I'll have to add a bracket here and there to add some rigidity but thats for later. All in all a good weekened! Now on hold for another week as I'm off on a bus trip.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79951&d=1517195905
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79952&d=1517195913
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79953&d=1517195921

[edwardb]

You mention adding rack extenders to the power steering rack. That's talked about a lot on the forum (including by me) but in the context of Mustang stock and/or donor power steering racks. Based on your previous posts, you ordered the power steering option from Factory Five and they provided the power steering rack, right? Are you sure the rack they provide needs the extenders? For their manual rack, the one they provide already has the proper spacing. Seems they would do the same for their powered version. But I don't know since I haven't personally ordered power steering from Factory Five. Maybe someone who has can provide a response. It's relatively easy to check though. With the rack centered, the inner tie rod joints of the rack should be along a line drawn between the upper and lower control arm pivots. The three should be roughly along the same line. This alignment provides the best front end geometry, reduced bump steer, etc.

[Jdav]

You mention adding rack extenders to the power steering rack. That's talked about a lot on the forum (including by me) but in the context of Mustang stock and/or donor power steering racks. Based on your previous posts, you ordered the power steering option from Factory Five and they provided the power steering rack, right? Are you sure the rack they provide needs the extenders? For their manual rack, the one they provide already has the proper spacing. Seems they would do the same for their powered version. But I don't know since I haven't personally ordered power steering from Factory Five. Maybe someone who has can provide a response. It's relatively easy to check though. With the rack centered, the inner tie rod joints of the rack should be along a line drawn between the upper and lower control arm pivots. The three should be roughly along the same line. This alignment provides the best front end geometry, reduced bump steer, etc.

I have the FFR power steering (kit arrived Jan 2017) and did not add any extenders to the rack that FFR provided.

[robertjamesellis]

"What we have here is a failure to communicate". :) The manual I have doesn't cover the FF power steering. And I couldn't find any instructions on it specifically to download, they only have for the coyote so had to go on what made sense and piecing things together. its clearly not ready to assemble for the MKIV roadster out of the box since I had to swap out the bushings. So not sure if the extenders are really needed or not. I had everything all put together and when I attached the tie rods I didn't feel i was getting enough bite on the threads. Even with the tires toed in a little with the assumption it was was to toe out when fully weighted down. At best I was about 3/4" into the tie rod. The extenders weren't difficult to put on and gave me some wiggle room work with for alignment. And definitely got some solid thread engagement on the rod. In the end, there's no harm in having them on as there is no functional interference and I have piece of mind that those arms are on snug. Whether they are required or not is a good questions. Maybe FF can clear this up.

As usual appreciate all the feedback and heads up!

[edwardb]

In the end, there's no harm in having them on as there is no functional interference... Maybe FF can clear this up.

I hear you about instructions. Unfortunately available options seem to outpace them. Agree talking to FF would be a good idea. Not sure I agree no interference is the only criteria though. I'd highly recommend doing the sanity check I mentioned before. You should be able to tell pretty quickly if the inner tie rod pivots are in line with the UCA and LCA pivots. If the PS rack already is the proper width, adding the extenders could adversely affect how it handles. Adequate thread engagement is important too, but IMO get the proper width on the rack first.

[robertjamesellis]

Agree about the width and the pivot points. Just makes sense. Away on business on all week so I can't get an up close look until this weekend and report back. I hadn't even considered the pivot points until you brought it up so appreciate the heads up. I'll let you know what I find this weekend.

Rob

[Mark Eaton]

Rob, You are moving along like a maniac! and I love the orange rivets, Go Beavers!!

I don't know if this helps but I have the FF power steering rack also. I remember when installing it that the bushings were all funky and obviously not right, and there wasn't a download to help. I didn't have to cut anything off or purchase extra parts, at least not yet. Here is the best photo of mine that I can find.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80055&d=1517288390

What Paul is saying about the UCA and LCA pivots being in a line with the inner tie rod pivot makes sense. Mine kind of looks in line, maybe an oblique line as opposed to vertical line. don't know if this is correct or not but its what I have so far...

[edwardb]

What Paul is saying about the UCA and LCA pivots being in a line with the inner tie rod pivot makes sense. Mine kind of looks in line, maybe an oblique line as opposed to vertical line. don't know if this is correct or not but its what I have so far...

Not vertical. Just connect the dots. This is an old thread on the other forum, but explains the geometry in detail. Hopefully you have the Photobucket hot fix extension in your browser otherwise the diagrams won't show up. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/63-brake-suspension-tech/1406-bump-steer-idea.html

[Yama-Bro]

When I installed my FFR power steering rack, I only had about .75" thread engagement. I was wondering if I needed the rack extenders as well. Someone pointed out to me, that the thread engagement will most likely increase once the car is on the ground with full chassis weight and it has a proper alignment. So, I made a note to go back and check it later. However the extenders are still in the back of my mind, as I don't really feel comfortable with .75" thread engagement.

[Bayfunktionkev]

Moving along nicely for sure! I also ordered the power steering setup from ffr so I'll keep that rack extenders in mind after reading about it on here. BTW I can make good use of that tube bender when you are finished with it .:) haha

[sbhunter]

I just installed the FFR power steering rack on mine. The tie rod pivots fall about an inch inside the plane of the upper and lower suspension pivots. I have plenty of engagement on the threads with the rotors eyeball straight. I did use the Breeze solid offset mounts but that doesn't change the width of the rack. You are really moving through your build.

[robertjamesellis]

FF responded to my email today but the answer was somewhat ambiguous. It said the power steering rack from FF should come with the extenders already installed. I know mine didn't have them on them so I sent of picture and asked if this is what they were supposed to look like. Hopefully I'll hear back tomorrow.

[robertjamesellis]

Hey Bayfunk, happy to lend it out but I'm keeping the straightener since it has worked out great for me. And I like the stainless lines so much I'm going to redo the brake lines on my wife's 60 Corvette. I think I owe her for letting me drain the checking account on all my fun upgrades!

[robertjamesellis]

Hey Paul,

Thanks for the link. Very interesting conversation and admitedly I didn't read every line in detail. But DV/DT came up with this nice summation.

"Moving the point forward like you did does help in reducing the amount of Ackermam that is lost as a result of moving it inboard. So it isn't a bad thing (if you are trying to maintain Ackerman) but you do lose some steering travel as a result so there would be a balance point. In many cases on the Mk III people have ended up using stops on the steering rack due to rubbing on the F panel. So you could figure out how far ahead you could move the steering arm such that it reduced the steering travel enough to get rid of the rubbing.

Basically the geometry breaks down as follows:

Moving the rack forward will reduce Ackerman.
Moving it aft will increase Ackerman.

Moving the steering arm pivot(outer tie rod pivot point) forward increases Ackerman and decreases steering travel. The further back the rack position is the greater these effects will be.

Moving the steering arm pivot inboard reduces Ackerman. This decrease is at a greater rate than the gain from moving it forward.

For the stock FFR set up, making the rack longer/tie rods shorter, will improve bumpsteer. Making the rack longer will have minimal effect on Ackerman for the amount of increase we are looking at."

I believe this discussion was more based on the standard rack, but reading the conclusion, even with the extenders I believe I'm in a better shape than shorter. Reduced bumpsteer and minimal effect on Ackerman. Did you see something I might have missed?

Looking at my pictures, the inner tie rod joint would more in line with the upper and lower control arm joints. Let me know if I'm missing something.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80116&d=1517375076
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79939&d=1517195731

Rob

[edwardb]

Good stuff and good discussion. Keep in mind that article is 10 years old and racks were all the standard Mustang width. So adding extenders was determined to improve geometry and reduce bump steer. Also at that time everyone was using Mustang spindles (there were a couple different versions) so there were efforts being made to improve the geometry of those as well. Ackerman was a big part of that. When Factory Five introduced their in-house designed spindles several years ago, they incorporated all the improvements and the results are vastly superior front end geometry. Also over the past years, Factory Five has been supplying the standard steering rack with the wider pivots built in.

Which brings us to today and back to my original question. Offering a power steering option is relatively new for Factory Five. Before the only option was to buy a Mustang rack, or use a donor rack, and add the extenders. Vendors like Breeze offered a PS rack (which I've used several times) that has the extenders already added. So does the powered steering rack that Factory Five now supplies have the wider pivots built in, or are the extenders still required to get the inner pivots out where they work best? Sounds like, based on their email response, the rack they provided should have had extenders and yours didn't. So adding them appears to be the right thing to do. That also would explain your issue with not enough threads until the extenders were added.

Once installed, still good to do a sanity check to make sure it's aligned properly. It's hard to tell much from your picture because (1) the boot covers the pivot, and (2) looks like you have it turned out quite a bit. The "in-line" check should be with the rack centered.

[robertjamesellis]

I needed to solve this riddle so checked it tonight after getting home from my trip. I centered the rack and pulled the boot back and looked at the alignment of the steering rack inner tie rod pivot with the upper and lower control arm pivots. They appear to be almost perfectly in line WITH the extenders added. I also found this animation on front arm alignments. My "absolutely amateur first car builder" conclusion is that the steering should have the extenders added for better alignment of the pivot joints. Thanks Paul for pointing all this out otherwise I wouldn't have had a clue about how this is supposed to be!!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80320&d=1517628564
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80319&d=1517627429
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80318&d=1517627420

[edwardb]

I needed to solve this riddle so checked it tonight after getting home from my trip. I centered the rack and pulled the boot back and looked at the alignment of the steering rack inner tie rod pivot with the upper and lower control arm pivots. They appear to be almost perfectly in line WITH the extenders added. I also found this animation on front arm alignments. My "absolutely amateur first car builder" conclusion is that the steering should have the extenders added for better alignment of the pivot joints. Thanks Paul for pointing all this out otherwise I wouldn't have had a clue about how this is supposed to be!!

Glad it worked out. Looks exactly right and answers the question for sure. Now you can move on and worry about something else. :)

[robertjamesellis]

Been a while since I posted. Life and work have been taking over and just haven't seen to have the time to get back on here and post my progress. No posts doesn't mean I haven't been busy though! One thing I did get done was all the brake lines, fuel lines and a line for the hydraulic throw out bearing. No magic to this. Like others I made simple bracket to attach all 3 reservoirs to the rail. Only trick was I staggered the brackets so they lined up as close to each other as possible. I used the supplied red wilwood lines and tightened everything up. Bleeding wasn't too bad. It took me a few rounds on the brakes at each tire but after awhile I got a firm brake pedal and I'm happy with that so far. I found a couple leaks and tightened up the connections and that seemed to do the trick. Was worried about my flares and unions on the stainless steel brake lines but looks like I did ok for the most part.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96107&d=1540355273
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96108&d=1540355282
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96109&d=1540355289
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96110&d=1540355297

[robertjamesellis]

I'll keep posting on my progress over the next few days. Good news is I've made it all the way to first start!

[Boydster]

My stomach was in such knots for first start... good luck!!

[robertjamesellis]

Another modification was fitting in the Russ Thompson drop trunk. I wasn't happy with the diagonal bars and wanted to eliminate them. So I cut them off and added a short bar from front to back to add some support for the trunk. I need to clean up the edges where I cut for the diagonals before. I'll patch that up later.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96111&d=1540355305
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96112&d=1540355311
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96252&d=1540437916
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96253&d=1540437919

[robertjamesellis]

Next step was to modify the foot boxes. I was determined to get enough room in the drivers side footbox so I could comfortably get my size 12's on the accelerator. I also wanted to round out the corner where the footbox transitioned into the transmission tunnel. Knowing I had little wiggle room, I dropped the engine in temporarily so I could measure up the edges. I fabbed up all the parts and test fit. Drivers side is where I put my focus first.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96115&d=1540355334
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96116&d=1540355345
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96117&d=1540355355
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96119&d=1540355373
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96120&d=1540355382

[robertjamesellis]

Once I was satisfied with the fit, I got the panels powder coated and installed. You experienced guys will see where I went wrong pretty quick.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96122&d=1540355400
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96123&d=1540355407
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96124&d=1540355415

[robertjamesellis]

I then went ahead and did the passenger side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96138&d=1540355544
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96139&d=1540355553
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96134&d=1540355508
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96135&d=1540355517

[robertjamesellis]

Proud of all my hard work I took it out of the garage so I could clean and sweep and get all scraps and dust off the floor and off the car.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96126&d=1540355440
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96127&d=1540355445

[cv2065]

Been a while since I posted. Life and work have been taking over and just haven't seen to have the time to get back on here and post my progress. No posts doesn't mean I haven't been busy though! One thing I did get done was all the brake lines, fuel lines and a line for the hydraulic throw out bearing. No magic to this. Like others I made simple bracket to attach all 3 reservoirs to the rail. Only trick was I staggered the brackets so they lined up as close to each other as possible. I used the supplied red wilwood lines and tightened everything up. Bleeding wasn't too bad. It took me a few rounds on the brakes at each tire but after awhile I got a firm brake pedal and I'm happy with that so far. I found a couple leaks and tightened up the connections and that seemed to do the trick. Was worried about my flares and unions on the stainless steel brake lines but looks like I did ok for the most part.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96107&d=1540355273
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96108&d=1540355282
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96109&d=1540355289
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96110&d=1540355297

Looks great Rob. Nice work! What size holes/grommets are you using through the circular piece for the hydraulic hoses?

[robertjamesellis]

Feeling good. I went ahead and prepped the transmission. I plugged the speedo hole. I also rotated the shifter so I could buy some room following my e-brake mod to the top of the tunnel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96129&d=1540355457

Fast Forward and this part actually worked out great. I won't need to get the mid-shift kit like I thought I would
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96169&d=1540355833

I added the Tilton Hydraulic Throwout bearing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96132&d=1540355486

I also ran the lines for the HTB down the side of the drivers side footbox. I also orginally had the rear brake line going down the front of the footbox and relocated that to alongside the footbox. During this time, I also put together my throttle linkage.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96137&d=1540355534

Key to the HTB is a clutch stop. I fabricated a stop and attached it the the rail where the pedal box is.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96142&d=1540355579

I also added an adjustable bolt to the pedal so the head of the bolt would hit the clutch stop. This made it fully adjustable so I could fine tune it once the engine and transmission are in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96144&d=1540355594
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96146&d=1540355611

[robertjamesellis]

I want to be able to adjust the brakes without having to get inside the pedal box again, so I added the Wilwood adjustment knob. Pretty simple to add. Just drilled a hole in the side of the panel and ran the cable through a rubber grommet. I plan on cutting the cable to fit after engine is in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96149&d=1540355635
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96150&d=1540355645

[robertjamesellis]

I needed to add a hole for my fan thermostat so I tapped and drilled a hole. Worked out great.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96152&d=1540355662

[robertjamesellis]

I started the electrical by adding in a buss bar to the rail below the firewall. I plan on centralizing all my power there rather than the starter.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96153&d=1540355670

I ran power from the battery all the way to the cut-off switch. From there to the buss bar and from there to the starter. I also ran a negative from the battery to the starter and a ground to the engine block.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96154&d=1540355681
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96155&d=1540355690
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96156&d=1540355699
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96157&d=1540355706

Ready to drop in the engine!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96158&d=1540355715
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96159&d=1540355725

[robertjamesellis]

Peeled my son away from his video games for a little while to help. I took advice of others and jacked up the rear of the car to get a better angle. I detached the carb and attached a lift plate. Have to say I was a little nervous about those four bolts but it held great and went in with no problem.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96160&d=1540355733
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96161&d=1540355742
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96162&d=1540355751

Engine In!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96164&d=1540355770
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96165&d=1540355780
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96166&d=1540355800

[robertjamesellis]

And here is where I noticed my mistake. First clue was trying to get the plug wire onto DS back. Wouldn't go on quite right.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96163&d=1540355760

Room for the wires on the ps but not much else. Seems to me I must be forgetting something!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96167&d=1540355813

Yeah! I forgot to give myself enough room for headers. Headers wouldn't go on. I realized I didn't give myself enough room with my footbox mods to allow for header. This is where I was set back about 2 months and a bottle of bourbon.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96173&d=1540355872

[robertjamesellis]

The ps footbox was so bad. I just needed to clip the corner a bit and make some room.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96174&d=1540355881
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96175&d=1540355893

The drivers side I had to almost completely rebuild the engine side of the footbox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96176&d=1540355903
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96179&d=1540355936

This time I was making sure there was room for the headers
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96181&d=1540355955
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96183&d=1540355973
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96184&d=1540355984

[robertjamesellis]

I fabbed up the new panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96192&d=1540356077

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96193&d=1540356086
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96194&d=1540356095

Still plenty of room for my feet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96195&d=1540356106
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96196&d=1540356115
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96197&d=1540356127
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96198&d=1540356136

[robertjamesellis]

So I wasn't good about taking pictures of the next few steps
Got the footboxes modified. Actually, i think the DS footbox came out better the second time around
Dropped the engine in again. Went in great again.
Attached tranny support. Need to make some brackets to get the pinion angle right but got there.
Attached driveshaft and safety loop
Attached power steering lines.
Attached gas lines
Dropped in my Optima battery
Then installed the radiator. Top and Bottom Breeze supports.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96200&d=1540356153
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96201&d=1540356163
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=96202&d=1540356179

[robertjamesellis]

So I spent some time connecting up the wiring. I wanted to check the engine and turn even before I finish all the wiring. So I hooked up the ignition, choke and coil. I connected a hose from the water pump to the heater hose connection on the intake manifold. This way I could bypass the heater. I filled up the radiator with fluid. Added power steering fluid and bleed the line. Also bled the line on the throw out bearing. Checked the oil and all looked good. I turned the starter over to see if my mechanical pump was working. It was and soon filled the floats in the carb. So I knew I was close.
https://youtu.be/U9HAvRWWS1g

Not successful. I was worried that I hadn't hooked something up right or wasn't getting enough gas to the carb until it popped a few times. It has been sitting for over a year so I didn't expect it to just fire right up. I had to crank a few times but eventually got my first start! It started but since I didn't have any gauges hooked up I didn't leave it running for long. Just got it running enough to fill the garage with exhaust and set off the fire alarms in the house. Also rousted a few neighbors out of their houses since I didn't have the side pipes on. I definitely rattled my own ear drums but I haven't felt that giddy about something in years. What a thrill!!!
https://youtu.be/UAAZeKajnSI

Now back to the wiring and making sure I've got any leaks taken care of and get this running for real. So technically a first start but not really a first run! Get to that next. I am more excited than ever to keep this build moving along.