65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build

[nkw8181]

Ladies and gents, it is time for another build!! Not only am I building a Gen 3 but have the honor and privilege of giving the prototype new life. Hence the cars name "Phoenix" since the car will be reborn a street car. Below is one of the pictures from Hot Rod Magazine.

75013

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/inside-factory-fives-third-generation-type-65-coupe/

So a few things that are different from the pics and the article.

- The wheels are different, they are 18x11" vintage Halibrand replica wheels on all four corners
- The engine (with supercharger) and transmission stay unchanged:D
- I am not touching the body! It is perfect the way it is. other then adding windshield wipers and a licence plate light ( and possibly a rear view camera that
integrates into the mirror).
I also want to look more into the protective clear wraps in order to protect the paint job
- The new frame will be white rather then black and have IRS
- Wilwood brakes all around but if they will fit ( waiting on conformation) I want to upgrade to the 14" rotors.
- I am debating power steering using a Toyota 2000-2005 MR2 spider electro-hydraulic power steering pump.
- A/C is also up in the air. need to do more research on if it fits with the supercharger though I may just determine to leave P/S and A/C off.
- interior carpet.
- current plan is powder coating the aluminum a gray and painting the suspension components with G2 caliper paint ( haven't picked a color)
- Interior will get lizard skin applied before carpet is put down.
- Ceramic coat the long tube heads and exhaust
- upgrade oil pump gears ( if my research points me this way)

Ok I think that is all that I can think of for now. Oh and the build finish date is 11/18!! so I will have the Prototype car, New frame and who knows how may boxes around thanksgiving!

[CraigS]

This will be fun to watch. On the PS, have you seen this?
http://www.fastfreddiesfabrications.com/shop/category.php?id_category=4
Re: AC. Since you live in Dallas I think AC is mandatory. Personally I rather lose the supercharger than PS and AC.

[nkw8181]

No I hadn't, I'll look into it deeper.

See I'm the opposite, the supercharger will stay regardless. Ps and a/c are the optional bit. If I go without a/c then I might look into the scoops over the feet wells and make them functional. I drove the 818 in the summer and I think the scoops behind the door will bring in a lot of air. We shall see we shall see.

[nkw8181]

I can't find how many amps it pulls. any idea?


This will be fun to watch. On the PS, have you seen this?
http://www.fastfreddiesfabrications.com/shop/category.php?id_category=4
Re: AC. Since you live in Dallas I think AC is mandatory. Personally I rather lose the supercharger than PS and AC.

[edwardb]

I can't find how many amps it pulls. any idea?

I installed the Fast Freddie EHPS setup in my #7750 Roadster build for power steering and hydroboost brakes. Worked great. I can't answer your question directly regarding current draw. But it comes with a 100 amp breaker and 75 amp relay. Plus directions are to power it directly from the battery. Which I did. So it's meaty. I would make sure you have an alternator that's up to the task. Normal batteries we use should be fine. This is a picture of the parts it came with:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/th_IMG_2373_zps310244e8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Power%20Steering/IMG_2373_zps310244e8.jpg.html)

[John Dol]

For those not in the know... why does it need a new frame?
Good luck with the build sounds like you have a good plan together.
For what its worth I vote yes on PS and AC

John

[nkw8181]

The prototype frame was just that a prototype and so it was cut/welded, cut/welded exec. It is a safety and liability reason the the frame must be destroyed. If someone had an accident the frame may or may not act as predicted. I think that gives a good idea.

From what I can tell I may be able to use the stock a.c. (or at least mounting location) with the EHPS. Asking a question that appears to be obvious to others is hard to find a definitive answer on Google lol.


For those not in the know... why does it need a new frame?
Good luck with the build sounds like you have a good plan together.
For what its worth I vote yes on PS and AC

John

[Gordon Levy]

I have the 14" wilwood stuff if you need it.

[nkw8181]

Thanks!

So ok I'm looking for thoughts and ideas of ways to protect the beautiful paint job while the car is being built. I have a 3 car garage so the body can sit next to the old and new frame but that leaves a small amount of room to work. I've thought of using moving blankets, car cover, painters tape. You get the idea. Thoughts??

[Garry Bopp]

I would buy an inexpensive car over. A Corvette size cover will fit your coupe body.

Garry

[John Dol]

Raise the body on a wood buck to the ceiling so its out of the way. More floor space, and less likely to get dings.

John

[nkw8181]

I've seen some pics of a cobra wood buck but the coupe is taller with the roof. I haven't seen pics done with the coupe. I'm going to figure out if i can hang the body with the frame under it tomorrow. anyone got a rough body weight with windshield installed?

Thought this might work or two of them. I've had them before and they are great. I wouldn't use the steel mesh. Rather just hook into eyes on a wood carriage.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009I8AO6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[John Dol]

Yeah that will probably do.
I think Cobrakai inverted the body so the roof faced down. Depending on how long the body is going to be off the car you need to worry about the body settling in a different shape then it was on the car. Think FFR recommends supporting under the roof by the windshield to keep the pontoons un loaded
HTH

John

[nkw8181]

What year vette?


I would buy an inexpensive car over. A Corvette size cover will fit your coupe body.

Garry

[forcefed1]

Your comment on changing the frame to white has me thinking.
I'm getting a black street frame. But for the exposed portions of the interior Id like to have the frame White.
Several of my race cars we painted the inside white and it made such a difference. The car just felt much cleaner and finished.
But i like the black powdercoat option for the outside of the car.

[nkw8181]

Counting down! the car should arrive next week!!!! WOOO HOOO!!

[Garry Bopp]

Nolan ... it's been a long time since I purchased the cover but I think a '90's Vette.

Garry

[nkw8181]

Well a few updates. I will have wilwood 14" rotors on the front and 12.88 on the rear. I've also gone through the aerobics of getting a sample of the paint and sending it to g2 coating. They said they can match it (I'm sure it will be without all the metallics). This is for the brake calipers. Before going this route I did check with Sherman Williams to see if they had anything high temp for the brakes with no luck. I think it will look sick with the brakes matching the car.

Also I ordered the custom indoor car cover that factory five has for the car. Wayne suggested it after seeing it at SEMA. His words where "it fits like a glove". I still may get an outdoor cover that I can put over this one. I'd just like to be prepared if a random thunderstorm shows up since the weatherman(woman) have a hard time in Texas.

Next the car delivery has been delayed. Stewart had an issue with the trailer so the car will arrive next week. Thinking about it this is probably for the better. I doubt the semi could fit down my street during thanksgiving!

[turbonut48]

Call Ken at epowersteering.com. He ll help you round up the parts. My control kit came with a potentiometer to vary the amount of assist. Get the original splinned connectors with whichever unit you go with.
You ll still need to make your own mount.
Tell him Tom sent you.

The Nut

[nkw8181]

Call Ken at epowersteering.com. He ll help you round up the parts. My control kit came with a potentiometer to vary the amount of assist. Get the original splinned connectors with whichever unit you go with.
You ll still need to make your own mount.
Tell him Tom sent you.

The Nut

Thanks! I'll given them a shout. It will come down to fast Freddie or epowersteering now that I know of another option to explore.

[nkw8181]

Car update: the prototype car will be here thur and the rest of the kit arrives sat!!

[John Dol]

Nolan,

Bet you can't sleep!!

John

[nkw8181]

It is going to be really hard to sleep tonight!

I don't see that I mentioned it but I will have A/C


I got a few things on black Friday and cyber Monday (and this week) for both the car and garage:)

-I decided to go with Fast Freddies EHPS and ordered it.
-I ordered 2 gallons of LIZARDSKIN CERAMIC WHITE and SOUND CONTROL BLACK. I am only doing the interior so I hope this is enough.
-2 ton engine hoist. I had a one ton but need to upgrade for this motor and tran.
-Air Riveter. After the last build i decided it is worth getting
-retractable air and electric reel to mount on the ceiling
-Drill press
-Fender cover
-6 ton jack stands
-shop vac
-And lots of small things!

Alright I have pics of the car from tomorrow and video followed by pics of the rest of the kit on Sat

[nkw8181]

Man oh man this is going to be fun!! So here are some pics and videos of the Prototype being delivered. Tomorrow morning everything else comes.

https://imgur.com/eMhL1VO

https://imgur.com/eMhL1VO

https://youtu.be/Ex-3b0ucZRk

https://youtu.be/T3DQkpSHTOw



https://youtu.be/PZpVOiHev-g

[Vette1972]

Wow! That thing sounds totally awesome!! Can't wait to see the reconstruction of this gem. Thanks for the update. Will be watching closely.

[John Dol]

Very nice!!

John

[nkw8181]

This was an amazing weekend. The frame came in Sat morning with all the aluminum and boxes. I spent the rest of Sat going through the inventory boxes. Sunday the real work began. I located and placed all the panels and then videoed it for myself for when they come back from powder coating and anyone else it might help. the link is below.

https://youtu.be/xsBIdQnmEYk

I had two panels that I couldn't find so I just took them from the prototype and will make them work. We (two friends of mine) got the prototype up in the air, exhaust off, tabs welded on the exhaust (prototype didn't have it), headers off, all aluminum with at least one hole in it and some of the interior panels taken out. man those header bolts are a pain to get too! We took off the alternator to allow room for the headers to come out plus it looks like we would need to do that anyway to pull the motor. The plan is to leave the body on the car as long as we can and try to do the same with the motor but the motor may end up coming out and staying out of both cars for a bit to make things easier to get to.

One step at a time and we will see where it gets us.

Here are the pics from the last 2 days.

https://imgur.com/a/qVbSr

[nkw8181]

Got the aluminum back from powder coating and temp installed then with the self tap screws.

Aluminum temp installed https://imgur.com/a/Td2Xh

[John Dol]

Looks nice! So are those the original panels that were on the demo car? If so how close does the fit seem to be now that they are on a different chassis?

John

[Vette1972]

Man those are great photos! It looks like a cad drawing it's so pristine. Anxious to see you get really started. Tks!

[nkw8181]

John, those are new aluminum. I didn't try to fit the old. I'm trying my best not to make any marks or scratches on the white frame as it will show everything.

Thanks Vette. Should make some headway this weekend!

[nkw8181]

Update. We got the IRS installed. I made a mistake and ordered wheel studs with a knurl size of .618. DON'T DO THIS! The proper knurl size for the studs is .625. So on the first set almost all the studs spun. Then I heard you could tac weld it. I tried this and had one break the weld. I then decided that I didn't trust this setup. I ordered new hubs from rock auto and some Mosser studs. The first brand was Dorman. The Mosser hand better defined knurl.

Rear IRS installed https://imgur.com/a/N4VEX

[nkw8181]

So I thought that the front Wilwood brakes that factory five offered where the same as what goes on the F body mustang. This is not the case. Factory five has a custom set of Wilwoods made for there cars. They are narrower and it makes it easier for wheel fitment. All this to say that I ordered the rotor and miss parts to convert the "mustang" front brakes to 14" rotors which ofcourse do not work on my car. It was easy to find the factory five brakes on Wilwoods site once I knew to look for it. Another lesson learned. So the car will have the factory five 12.88s on all 4 corners.

Speaking of brakes, I safety wired all the rotors. We now have the front and rear suspension installed including front and rear swaybars. I have a power steering rack coming but it is on backorder so we will switch that out when it gets here.

78393

7839478395

As far as the rear wheel studs go, I have gotten really good at removing and installing new studs. The second set was the right knurling but when I installed them they weren't long enough with or without the spacer. the studs where 1.5 in long which should have worked but one of my measurements was off. So after reaching out to Wayne and Eric I found out that I could run 1.25 or maybe even 1.5 in spacers with the wheels and tires I have. (335/30/18R) Also to note that I would recommend atleast the 1” to keep the wheel from rubbing the frame. So what i decided was that I would knock the studs out of the spacers (the spacers had studs built into them) and run longer studs from the hub through the spacers. Then if I find they are too long I will just trim them down. Here are the studs I used and a pic with the wheels on with the 1" spacer.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7703

78396

The brake lines are also run. We ran some different lengths then those supplied. For the front we ran a 51" up to the tee and reused the one from the prototype ~41" to go to the right front. for the rear we used one of the supplied 60" to go through the tunnel then teed off with a 30" for the left and a 40" for the right. I think it turned out well. The prototype had a long stainless steel fuel lines so we reused it.
<brakeline and fuel line pics

The rear harness as well as the license plate backup camera cables are run through the trans tunnel next to the brake and fuel lines. With where we mounted the engine management module we plan on having the wires come in through the side of the pedal box. The top of the pedal box is installed with rivet nuts so I am making a fuse panel that faces up.

A majority of the panels have now all been drilled. There is alot of work in that one sentence. I still have the passenger foot box to drill and I think that is it.

7839778398

So I mentioned the backup camera. this is what I went with and here is the mirror I also chose. I will be putting a 5th wheel in the back so I will have little visibility. This mirror and camera will allow me a better field of vison without making the car look "modern". Plus if I need navigation I can just look at the mirror 😊 .


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE1CIS4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_707VTW73M/Boyo-VTW73M.html?tp=66448&omnews=14673008

[nkw8181]

here are a few more pics7840378404784057840678407784087840978410784117 8412

[nkw8181]

and a few more7841378414784157841678417784187841978420784217 8422

[nkw8181]

ok last one for the night.7842378424784257842678427784287842978430

[Sigurd]

Great build.
Are you sure you want the same brake fluid reservoir for both brake circuits? One leak can leave you without brakes.

[edwardb]

Great progress! Thanks for posting all the detailed pictures showing the various fuel, brake, and electrical wiring runs. Keep them coming. The Gen 3 build manual doesn't have much detail for any of this, so very helpful seeing what you did. Which based on your descriptions, sounds like you're mirroring some of what FF did on the prototype.

One question though on your sway bars. Is there a reason you didn't cut the rod ends as FF describes in their sway bar instructions? "Cut the rod ends and female rod ends so the threads are 1/2” long." https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/SWAYBAR-2015-IRS.pdf

[Erik W. Treves]

I didn't cut mine either...was gonna wait until after my first track event and see if I need any adjustments... If you wanted to go full loose... not sure it will reach the last hole if you cut it.

[Jkviper]

Awesome build thread, following along and enjoying watching your progress.

[Jacob McCrea]

That looks great; keep the pictures coming.

[nkw8181]

edwardb,

The main thing we are keeping the same as what was on the prototype but different from the manual is where the wiring comes into the cabin. We are using the prototype as a good reference and then trying to improve on it. The rear is completely different as the prototype was a 3 link verse the reincarnated car has IRS. As far as the sway bar manual I didn't see that manual :( we just installed it the way everything fit. I'm not sure it there is a reason that you would need to cut them. With them longer the angle isn't that extreme and if something is able to "hit" it you have a problem with how close it is to the wheels. I think you would have to be driving over a curb or something of the sort to hit the sway bar.

AMSigurd,

I hadn't given much thought to splitting the brakes apart. The 818 was a single reservoir and we didn't have any brake issues.

Thanks for the support everyone!

[nkw8181]

Ok I'm getting the hang of this photo album. Got a few more pics. We installed quite a few of the interior panels. We are waiting on an e-brake mounting part before we mount the large trunk panel and the rest of the center console. Someone speak now if we will run into any issues installing all the panels before the motor and trans are installed. We have all the wires and tubing that will run through the tunnel ran. Secondly the cab side panels are installed as well. I couldn't see any reason to wait on these. I want all the panels installed sooner then later so that I can paint the lizard skin before putting on the body or even the wiring in.

[nkw8181]

ok it helps if I add the photos78543785447854578546785477854878549785507855 178552

[nkw8181]

A few more including the fuel tank.785537855478555785567855778558785597856078561 78562

[q4stix]

Nice progress!

[nskaats]

Nice progress and absolutely beautiful build! This is making me even more anxious for my coupe to show up.

[nkw8181]

It seems like the more time I go between updates, that harder it is to capture it all. So I got the fuse box mount made and mounted. As I mentioned before the panel above is secured with rivetnuts and 10-32 screws. Got the brake reservoir fully plumbed and the ebrake installed. After Wayne’s suggestion I made the center trans panel removable with rivetnuts. The wiring is in the car just not fully routed, plugged in or secured. The engine is in the car though we did find another change from the prototype. The new frame requires a spacer kit that modifies the motor mount while the proto had none. Also the transmission mounting bracket was quite different. I want to note that Factory Five has been great about getting me the required parts when I find things like this. We knew things like this would pop up as unknown variables. After the engine was in we taped up the interior and painted it with to coats of Lizard skin sound and thermal insulation each. I didn’t do the back of the car on first coat as I was afraid of running out. I did do the back with both coats of thermal. So I can say it takes a little under two gallons of Lizard skin Sound and two gallons of Lizard skin thermal to cover the inside of a Daytona. For those who wanted to know.

here are the pics

[nkw8181]

And pics cont.

[nkw8181]

and yet more

[nkw8181]

and yes. still more

[nkw8181]

And the last for now

[nkw8181]

Time for an update again and lots and lots of pictures. We got the Ac system plumbed and most of the wiring done. The AC compressor gets really close to the supercharger pulley bracket. The AC condenser got trimmed to fit. Finally worked out where to put the electro-hydraulic power steering pump after multiple tries and making a new bracket though I haven't mounted it yet. The AC is fully plumbed. I used a 90 at the top of the condenser to avoid the structure on the prototypes hood though others could do the same. The current condenser needs to be trimmed and shifted all the way to the drivers side if you want the lower running inside with the radiator hose. I would suggest considering lifting the motor a bit when installing the headers. some of the bolts are a real pain to get in. I wish we would have thought if this while we where doing it. I'm sure there is alot more I am forgetting to mention and will add as I remember. Next we need to finish hooking up all the wires and then START the CAR!! Here is the picture album. There are close to 80 pics so I didn't want to post 8 times to show them all. I hope this way works.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1248

[jdavis500]

All these pics are unbelievably helpful. Thanks so much and keep them coming.

[nkw8181]

Glad it helps jdavis500.

Here is another walk around video.


https://youtu.be/iw4c11llUqE

[q4stix]

As always, great pictures and documentation. I love how clean it all looks.

[Dlirium]

Yes, fantastic pictures! What supercharger are you using? I'm interested in any info on fitment as well, as I am running A/C too and considering what options I have to eeek a little more HP out of the Gen 2 Coyote...

[nkw8181]

Thanks guys.

Dlirium, it is an Edlebrock E-force supercharger. The clearance to the hood is tight. In fact Factory five had to trim the fiberglass to keep from hitting the motor. We will see what if any demons arise from this on the new frame. Will keep you posted as we get close. Things look good for an engine start this week. Still working on the power steering and chasing down wires for gauge power and the Speedo wires. The prototype didn't have any lights hooked up in or outside. Chasing wires....... this is where time can disappear lol.

[Mitch Wright]

Fantastic build.

[Dlirium]

It seems like the more time I go between updates, that harder it is to capture it all. So I got the fuse box mount made and mounted. As I mentioned before the panel above is secured with rivetnuts and 10-32 screws. Got the brake reservoir fully plumbed and the ebrake installed. After Wayne’s suggestion I made the center trans panel removable with rivetnuts. The wiring is in the car just not fully routed, plugged in or secured. The engine is in the car though we did find another change from the prototype. The new frame requires a spacer kit that modifies the motor mount while the proto had none. Also the transmission mounting bracket was quite different. I want to note that Factory Five has been great about getting me the required parts when I find things like this. We knew things like this would pop up as unknown variables. After the engine was in we taped up the interior and painted it with to coats of Lizard skin sound and thermal insulation each. I didn’t do the back of the car on first coat as I was afraid of running out. I did do the back with both coats of thermal. So I can say it takes a little under two gallons of Lizard skin Sound and two gallons of Lizard skin thermal to cover the inside of a Daytona. For those who wanted to know.

here are the pics

Love that fuse panel location!! I'm going to straight up steal that idea :-)

[Dlirium]

Thanks guys.

Dlirium, it is an Edlebrock E-force supercharger. The clearance to the hood is tight. In fact Factory five had to trim the fiberglass to keep from hitting the motor. We will see what if any demons arise from this on the new frame. Will keep you posted as we get close. Things look good for an engine start this week. Still working on the power steering and chasing down wires for gauge power and the Speedo wires. The prototype didn't have any lights hooked up in or outside. Chasing wires....... this is where time can disappear lol.

Thanks Nolan, can't wait for the fire-up video!!

[nkw8181]

The car lives! So after finding that the brake/ clutch sensor wasn't grounded and that the inertia switch was tripped the car runs!

https://youtu.be/nvUWCqRfxoE

[nkw8181]

I have alot of pictures to add. the man thing of note "besides getting the car running" was I created sub-frames for the dash to stiffen it up. I mounted the gauge cluster to the frame to make getting to the wires easier. With the structure it the side panels will be permanent so the ac vents there don't have to move. The defrost may stay attached to the dash unless I figure another way. So until I get the pics here is a walk around after we ran the engine.

https://youtu.be/N5Q3gglHBuw

[nkw8181]

So here are all the pics. One other thing to note. The dash cross member had a slight bow s when I mounted the gauges I put washers behind it to space it out. i also used angle iron that was straight as a reference for where to mount my sub frames.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1257

[jdavis500]

A very satisfying first start. I think hitting the horn to scare your buddy is always standard operating procedure.

[nkw8181]

Thanks for the confirmation. I knew that was in a manual somewhere

[Bob-STL]

The car lives! So after finding that the brake/ clutch sensor wasn't grounded and that the inertia switch was tripped the car runs!

https://youtu.be/nvUWCqRfxoE

This is a great build!

Engine sounds great!

[nkw8181]

Progress doesn't ever seem as big as in the beginning. regardless alot has been done. Seat brackets where made to stiffen up the seat mounting and allow the use of sliders. It was made so that I can mount it straight to the floor or with the sliders. with the sliders in I have to have foam on the side roll bars otherwise i hit my head. For reference I am 6'"1. when the seat is mounted to the floor directly my head clears.

Started installing the carpet. we got the piece tat goes under the dash, ie the hard one, and the back. if you look close at the pics you can see that I cut-out the fuel tank openings so if i need access I only pull up the small pieces.

I can't decide what I want to do on the switches on the dash. I really want them stationary. I have considered cutting a rectangle out of the gray dash and having a panel behind that is securing the switches. the signature will be attached like that I just can't make up my mind. Any suggestions? If I do the black panel i would attach the A/C panel to it. I also want some stiffness around the headlight switch since it pushes and pulls. Working on that pending the switch setup.

OOOOOO I got the car aligned!!! Yes I am getting a bit excited!!

got the electro hydraulic power steering installed and it feels really good. ( well sitting still and the little driving around the neighborhood.

I think that sums things up. hoping to finish up the carpet this week and a bit of miss wiring.

Oh almost forgot the album link

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1269

[nkw8181]

Time for another update. All the carpet is in,
Seats are in as well and I had the heated seat elements installed :)

817268172781728817298173081731

I got the dash mounting, switches and signature figured and and done.

81732

With that I made one more dash support that goes close to the headlight switch.

81733
Still need to run the ac ducting. Oh and a big one... Got the body on!!!
8173481735

it isn't fully secured yet but we are getting there. I am having to trim alot from under the front of the hood to clear the radiators when opening. I knew of this would be needed before hand.

here are the above pics and a few more.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1279

[Safrican13]

Loving following this build - seems to go so quick and effortlessly - guess thats what happens when you know what you doing!

[nkw8181]

Loving following this build - seems to go so quick and effortlessly - guess thats what happens when you know what you doing!

Thanks! I'm glad I'm making it "look" easy lol. One of my friends and I are working on it 5 to 6 days a week since we started. That and we both took a week off work after Christmas. I will say having built one car does help you know what to look for.

[Dlirium]

Oh and a big one... Got the body on!!!



Looking great, we all appreciate the volume of pictures! I have the same 18" wheels coming and will go with the same tires. Are you pretty happy with the look and fit of the rear wheels with the 1" spacer?

brent

[nkw8181]

It looks pretty good but I reserve final judgement for when the body is fully mounted and I test the wheel travel. It looks like it is close. I know others have said you could run 1.25 but that doesn't look to be the case but I will know soon enough. I'll be sure to share my findings

[nkw8181]

Still haven't checked the wheel travel but here is a video of where the car is at.

https://youtu.be/T4BRfsmg34A

[Zots]

I recently stopped by and visited with Nolan to check out the coupe. What a spectacular car!!!!! Thanks, Nolan.

[nkw8181]

I recently stopped by and visited with Nolan to check out the coupe. What a spectacular car!!!!! Thanks, Nolan.

Thanks it was great meeting you and I hope I was able to help you on your decision: )

On the topic of the car we find ourselves hitting a few road blocks. First we found that either the striker bolts needs to be longer or the striker mounting brackets need to be elongated. Second after we got that done we found we need to put some spacers inside the door between the door frame and hinge in order to pull the door in closer to the body. Lastly the driver exhaust is sitting to high so we elongated the driver side motor mount. We got a small amount of clearance and hope it is enough. We really don't want to take the exhaust off again!

Oh I did get the dash installed. ( Pictures to come later ) I will say that if you are putting a.c. on I do not recommend putting the engine computer behind the dash. Actually put as little as possible behind the dash. The a.c. hours take a lot of space. I made my dash removable but with absolutely no desire to "EVER" remove it is possible.

[Dlirium]

Oh I did get the dash installed. ( Pictures to come later ) I will say that if you are putting a.c. on I do not recommend putting the engine computer behind the dash. Actually put as little as possible behind the dash. The a.c. hours take a lot of space. I made my dash removable but with absolutely no desire to "EVER" remove it is possible.

Really interested in what you find here, please keep us posted as I am going to tackling this project next month...

Also, how did you make the dash removable? Love to see more on that!

Thanks for all the info!

brent

[Erik W. Treves]

hey... I think there are new rear splash guards you need to get from FFR... they close up the whole in front of the rear tire up high and wrap around the roll bar to seal it off nicely... might double check that piece and the new front splash guards as well.

[edwardb]

hey... I think there are new rear splash guards you need to get from FFR... they close up the whole in front of the rear tire up high and wrap around the roll bar to seal it off nicely... might double check that piece and the new front splash guards as well.

These are the front and rear splash guards that came with #59 delivered several months ago. I'm assuming these are the latest versions. Hope so anyway. Top two are the rear, bottom four are for the front. I haven't tried fitting them yet. (Sorry for the colorful floor.)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_0387_zpsfh3e8y5z.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0387_zpsfh3e8y5z.jpg.html)

[Dlirium]

These are the front and rear splash guards that came with #59 delivered several months ago. I'm assuming these are the latest versions. Hope so anyway. Top two are the rear, bottom four are for the front. I haven't tried fitting them yet. (Sorry for the colorful floor.)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_0387_zpsfh3e8y5z.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0387_zpsfh3e8y5z.jpg.html)

What is the plan for treating these? Powdercoat, or some sort of other undercoating?

[Erik W. Treves]

Yeah.... those are the old ones.. the new ones are different than those... the big rear splash guard is ok to coat and use... but the small one that goes to the pontoon is obsolete and you are missing the rear forward pieces (x2) and the fronts look incorrect as well.

Anyway...

[edwardb]

What is the plan for treating these? Powdercoat, or some sort of other undercoating?

Powder coat everything as I've done on previous builds and undercoat or bedliner on splash guards where they face the tires.


Yeah.... those are the old ones.. the new ones are different than those... the big rear splash guard is ok to coat and use... but the small one that goes to the pontoon is obsolete and you are missing the rear forward pieces (x2) and the fronts look incorrect as well.

Anyway...

Hmm. I have other parts. I just dug those out of the box thinking those were the splash guards. Just going by the descriptions on the parts list. I'll look further. Sure would have expected my kit from only a few months ago to have the latest parts...

[Erik W. Treves]

Yeah.. best I can tell from the pictures... but I received mine 26 Jan and I think they were the first ones out. If you show me the full pic of the from splash guard I can be sure... but I for sure don't see the top most rear front aluminum that closes off the wheel area from the roll bar/Body area.

[Tuftster]

Yeah.... those are the old ones.. the new ones are different than those... the big rear splash guard is ok to coat and use... but the small one that goes to the pontoon is obsolete and you are missing the rear forward pieces (x2) and the fronts look incorrect as well.

Any chance you could share some pictures of the new pieces you are referring to? I received my kit 11/8 so I'm guessing I don't have the latest and greatest. I already know the radiator duct panel has been changed since I got mine.

[Dlirium]

Any chance you could share some pictures of the new pieces you are referring to? I received my kit 11/8 so I'm guessing I don't have the latest and greatest. I already know the radiator duct panel has been changed since I got mine.

Ditto...

[Erik W. Treves]

I can when I get home... Yes the radiator aluminum changed... if yours is even with frame on the back piece of aluminum then it's the wrong one

[edwardb]

I can when I get home... Yes the radiator aluminum changed... if yours is even with frame on the back piece of aluminum then it's the wrong one

I assume you mean bent along the top edge like this. Plus the cutouts are slightly different than before. This is what I received, which makes me think (hope) I also have the right splash guards. I compared mine with Mike Everson's (his is #48, mine is #59) and they're different.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80313&d=1517623345

[Erik W. Treves]

Yep.. That's the update out front... funny I hadn't seen that after I passed back the results from my beta build.... you should have no problem there

[edwardb]

Yeah.... those are the old ones.. the new ones are different than those... the big rear splash guard is ok to coat and use... but the small one that goes to the pontoon is obsolete and you are missing the rear forward pieces (x2) and the fronts look incorrect as well.

Anyway...

I went through my box of aluminum parts, my kit packing list, and the instruction manual. Nothing found or documented for any sheet metal parts for the front part of the rear wheel wells. Agreed there are big gaps and openings there. Roadsters have a similar issue and I guess I've been used to making my own fill pieces. You're saying Factory Five has designed fill pieces? Any pictures?

Sorry for the build thread hijack. Hopefully it's of some use to this build and others following it. Just snapped these two pics of the inside front of the rear wheel wells. Pretty big openings top and bottom.

Top with gaps into the cockpit.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_0388_zpsgfebj8i8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0388_zpsgfebj8i8.jpg.html)

Bottom area.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_0389_zpsnhfs5uuo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Daytona%20Coupe/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0389_zpsnhfs5uuo.jpg.html)

[Erik W. Treves]

yep. you're missing some aluminum... Jim and company can fix you right up...

here is the piece that closes up that top part

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82612&d=1521163146

Notice these do not have a double bend in them... like the Gen 1 and 2 (which is what you probably have)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82611&d=1521163145

here is a close up of that panel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82609&d=1521163142

Look close and you can see the original panel that I got and you have UNDER the new panel... I just laid them on top each other since I had to modify them for the turbos... this was before the weather stripping installed...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82608&d=1521163141

Also the "long" panel that the rear splash guard attaches to is now shorter and do not extend all the way to the footbox... I left my original one in there and just bent the new panel some to make it look good...

I think you can see it...

here are the prototypes before I got them: notice the panel "behind" the pontoon... I didn't do it this way since the aluminum is stronger than the fiberglass... and the road wheel will be throwing rocks hard....so I placed the aluminum on the outside..

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82613&d=1521163836

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82614&d=1521163837

[edwardb]

Erik -- Thanks for the pics and explanation. Certainly helpful for me and I hope others. I contacted Factory Five today. There is an update kit being sent to all Gen 3 Coupe buyers. First 30 have been sent. Next batch (which would include me) are a week or two away. We didn't get into real specific details. But when I explained about the different sheet metal, was told about the update kit. Don't know what else will be in there. Will be like Christmas. ;)

[Erik W. Treves]

Ok.. cool... yeah.. I just got "the call".. the truck is on the way!

[nkw8181]

Looking great, we all appreciate the volume of pictures! I have the same 18" wheels coming and will go with the same tires. Are you pretty happy with the look and fit of the rear wheels with the 1" spacer?

brent

The wheels clear with travel for me with one inch spacers. I like the way it looks and don't want to go any larger. If mine looked like this with a solid axle it might very well hit.


Really interested in what you find here, please keep us posted as I am going to tackling this project next month...

Also, how did you make the dash removable? Love to see more on that!

Thanks for all the info!

brent

I put 3 rivet-nuts on the underside of my re-enforcement frame. Here is a better pic of two of the three.

82750

The third is behind the gauge cluster which I made permanent so the wires there at least can stay stationary.
8275182752

Thanks Erik and Edward. I got added to the list for the updated aluminum as well as getting updated glass hatch brackets. The back opens but not very high currently. I'm not sure what I can do on the front aluminum though since my hood doesn't have a lip to attach too. I also have the old radiator aluminum. I found that the door close off panels don't want to go in after the body is installed. They won't slide under the lip that sits under the hood when closed. At this point they probably aren't going to go on but how where they suppose to go? Fit doors with body, lift body and install panels?

We put some washers between the driver door frame and the door hinge to suck the door to the body which worked great. I'm pretty stoked about the body lines. On the topics of the body. Where the exhaust is we tapped some 3/8ths holes and put some flanged socket head cap screws with washers between the body and frame. The body on was warped away from the frame so did this to help there. it also made the door seal really stiff even without the striker bolts installed

So we still have a few lingering items. The main one of note the the fuel sender unit is leaking. We have tried twice now. I ordered some orings and if that doesn't work I'll request one from Factory Five. The fuel sending unit is cutting in and out as well. We think it is the pigtal. I am very glad that I have those access panel cutouts in the carpet. Next is to get the inspection and registered. ( temp tags on it for now so I can drive :) ) So after that and a few day of rest for my body, since we have been going 3-4 hours a night almost every night since we started, it is time to get the parts that are going back to Factory Five prepped. Then it will be frame cutting time!

So here are some pics

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1303

[nkw8181]

Oh and got the wipers installed. I think one of the female spade connectors isn't making connect so the park function isn't working. I'm not worried about it. They work and will get me past inspection.

[Jkviper]

Car looks great. It looks right at home with that collection of Vipers. To me you can see how the lines of the Daytona Coupe might have inspired the original design of the Viper GTS.

[Erik W. Treves]

On the door hinge aluminum... I ended up cutting them in half and then sliding them in place...I riveted a small over lap piece behind one of the pieces and then riveted the other piece to that.

[nkw8181]

On the door hinge aluminum... I ended up cutting them in half and then sliding them in place...I riveted a small over lap piece behind one of the pieces and then riveted the other piece to that.

Thanks! I'll try that. Next I hope to have it inspected tomorrow and looking for better hearing protection then just ear plugs lol

[nkw8181]

Car looks great. It looks right at home with that collection of Vipers. To me you can see how the lines of the Daytona Coupe might have inspired the original design of the Viper GTS.

Thanks and never noticed that. There where a lot of high end cars there. ALOT! I'd say 80 and Vipers where the inexpensive car of the bunch lol

[nkw8181]

Here is a walk around video.

https://youtu.be/unHbu3bztjE

[John Dol]

Looking good Nolan!

John

[nkw8181]

A few updates of notes. I had a fuel leak due to having the wrong seal from the prototype. Factory five sent me the correct one and no more leak. The fuel gauge would also cut in and out of reading. It turns out it was a grounding issue with the sender unit. The correct o-ring helped but didn't eliminate the issue. So I took a yellow female spade connector, Widened it, and put it on one of the three locking tabs. On the other end I put a ring terminal and ground it to the chassis. Works great now. There maybe something up with the ac. It doesn't seem cold and I can feel the load on the motor. Think I'll take the car to someone to check the a.c and see if i missed something or ifthere is a leak

[nkw8181]

[QUOTE=Erik W. Treves;317446]yep. you're missing some aluminum... Jim and company can fix you right up...

here is the piece that closes up that top part

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82612&d=1521163146

Do you have a pic of how this is installed? I can't for the life of me figure it out.

[Erik W. Treves]

I don't honestly... I got these after I made some since I was in a rush... go them after the car was back from SEMA I believe.

[TXAggie]

Visited Nolan today, what an absolutely amazing car. That motor still has my neck sore from how much pull it has. Can not wait for me to put my order in to start my build. Thanks Nolan fantastic job!