Dashboard Advice Please

[DowenS]

So I'm planning to get to work on my dashboard soon. I have the standard dash that comes with the complete kit. I was hoping to see some photos of some finished dashes. I'm specifically interested in where you located directional and high beam indicators, warning lights, and where you may have positioned any additional switches. If you could include any measurements relative to the existing cut-outs that would be great. I will be using the vintage gauges. Thanks

[GoDadGo]

I don't have any measurements, but if you look at or around 1:40 - 1:50 minutes into the attached video you can see how I set them up.
I just tried to center the indicator lights in between the Tach & Speedo over the hole for the steering wheel.
Also, I did make drop down tabs that allow me to pull the dash with the body on.

https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

NOTE: Check out Edward's build threads to see how to do it spot on perfect without any exposed fasteners.

[Ducky2009]

The newer gauges have the turn signal and hi beam lights in the speedo. What gauges do you have?

[DANW]

73931

Did something different.
Dan

[DANW]

73933

One more

[DANW]

73934
Dan

[DowenS]

Unfortunately, Mine are an older style.

[Ducky2009]

I like the Competition style dash.... made my own. I used Edwardb's layout. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/4988081-post52.html. Hind sight, I would move the tach up a little. The water temp gauge is just about the steering shaft, would move it up and a little to the left. Oil temp, on the far left, I would move it a little to the right. The one indicator light, the engine fault light, is located the same height as the water temp gauge and then the same distance from the center of the two gauges.

I used 1/8" thk padding and leather to cover. Tandy leather has very reasonable pricing. "Studio" leather is 2.5-3 oz weight. I paid $99 (military discount) for a 1/2 hide.

73937

[srobinsonx2]

Here is what I have. Hope this helps

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61990&d=1482030277

[AC Bill]

Besides the L & R signal and high beam indicators, I used them for the e-brake, alternator, manual cooling fan switch, and the driving lights.
My hazard light switch is on a panel under the dash, as is the gauge dimmer switch. Hi-beam switch is foot controlled.

[Dave Howard]

No pictures, but give this some thought.

When you're driving, the last thing you want to do is to take your focus off the road to find a switch on the dash. Especially the turn indicator switch cause you'll be moving when you need that one. What I did was to place the steering wheel over the dash. I got an idea of where my hands would be (4 and 8 oclock) and I then located the turn indicator switch in front of my right hand. Put the high beam switch above that. Easily reached without having to look for it. The other switches went in a line to the right of the ignition switch under the gauges.

[2bking]

73934
Dan
Obviously this is far from what the original OP was asking about but some serious food for thought. You have an impressive interior and I like your dash layout. I think you should start a thread on your design and share more info.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=14742&pictureid=63201

Switches left to right:

Hazard, Ignition, Hi/lo beam, Lights, Heater blower, Heater temperature.

Green Lights Blinker, Blue High Beams, Red Vent Fans.

Hidden to the left of the steering wheel rim:

Horn Button
Turn Signal Switch
(long control stalk - spring loaded - center off)

Lower Center Panel:

Footbox Vent Pulls, Radio, Vent Blowers, Radio Speakers

Early Bronco switch bezels, Billet Steering Shaft Trim

FFR padding & cover with 3M 90 spray adhesive.

3D Snake Logo with cut down Cobra Jet hood scoop script.

[10LCobra]

I centered mine above the steering wheel hole. For the watches I just continued the spacing between the holes that were already on the dash for the horn, ignition, etc.

[10LCobra]

73953

[10LCobra]

73954

[phileas_fogg]

Here's mine. It's a competition layout, but the methodology for locating switches & indicators is applicable to the standard layout as well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/36248648136_c7871f2bf1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XeaNd1)IMG_3561 (https://flic.kr/p/XeaNd1) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

I started with a blank dash from F5 and spent at least a couple of hours just sitting behind the wheel and moving the seat to various positions (forward, back, angled out, angled straight, raised an inch, on the floor) to make sure that no matter where the seat ended up I could see what I wanted to see.

To figure out where everything went, I started with the dimensions edwardb posted in his build log (I really need to send him a bottle of something special for all the copying I’ve done). I quickly found out that he and I must be of different stature, because only a couple of gauge locations worked for me. I ended up moving the bottom switches up 1/4” (so that they were 1 1/4” from the bottom of the dash). Also, I moved the three gauge set above the speedometer, the speedo itself, and the associated switches towards the passenger side of the car about 3/4-1”. I made sure the horn was directly under my right fingers with my hand on the wheel and that the turn signal toggle was directly under my left fingers. I put my start button under the oil pressure gauge.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/35455976474_e44a9e377b_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W289xd)IMG_3514 (https://flic.kr/p/W289xd) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

Once happy, with where the green dots were, I cut the holes.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35455975104_be5e8dea81_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W2898A)IMG_3522 (https://flic.kr/p/W2898A) by jhsitton (https://www.flickr.com/photos/91016165@N07/), on Flickr

I found that a "snug" diameter for the tach & speedo is 3.900 inches. 4" is definitely too big. The smaller gauges will work with a 2" hole, but if you go a skosh smaller they fit better. NOTE: These dimensions do NOT account for dash padding or cover material.

To get just the right diameter, I used a Heavy Duty Circle Cutter by General Tools (https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Cutter-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506015889&sr=8-1&keywords=hole+cutter+drill+press) and a drill press. Nerve wracking, but it got the job done. I cut the smaller holes with a step drill. Steve on the other forum suggested using sheet metal screws between the pilot bit and cutter to secure the dash to a backing piece when cutting the gauge holes. This is sound advice; I wish I’d known because doing so would have eliminated a lot of “chatter” from the aluminum.

I had to “massage” the gauge holes to make everything line up perfectly. But that was easily accomplished with a drum sander in the cordless drill.

I covered the dash in 3M’s 1080 vinyl, printed to look like carbon fiber. NOTE: The 1080 vinyl is VERY fragile. I nicked it a couple of times tightening switches. Fortunately, I was able to repair the damage - mostly. If you're going to use a veneer, paint the aluminum the same color as the veneer so that boo boos aren't so obvious.

From left to right:
Turn Signal Toggle
Oil Pressure Gauge
Start Button (1 1/4" from bottom of dash)
Left Turn Indicator
Water Temperature Gauge
Right Turn Indicator
Tachometer
High Beam Indicator
Horn
Voltmeter
High-Low Beam Toggle
Headlight Switch (1 1/4" from bottom of dash)
Fuel Gauge
Speedometer
Clock
Hazard Toggle
Heater Switch (1 1/4" from bottom of dash)
Spare [Unused] Toggle
Wiper Switch (1 1/2" from bottom of dash)

Initially, I intended to fabricate my own dash out of 0.090” thick T5 aluminum (I’d read several build threads where folks complained about the F5 dash vibrating, and so wanted a stouter base). I ordered the material, cut out the profile, and then set about finding a way to make the bend at the bottom of the dash.

I eventually located an air duct manufacturer about an hour away who agreed to bend the dash for me. However, the T5 material proved too brittle; the industrial break snapped the tab right off. Also, the aluminum was too thin for my friend CraigS to weld. So I bought a blank dash from F5.

To mount the dash, I fabricated 90 degree brackets out of scrap aluminum and secured them to the face with counter-sunk #6-32 machine screws. The brackets attach to the underside of the 3/4” dash hoop with #10-32 screws. I covered the screws on the dash face with JB Weld, and then sanded the face smooth.

I knew early on that I wanted something different than a vinyl or leather dash. I’d seen several carbon fiber dashes, and decided that was the look I wanted. I had read good things about 3M’s 1080 vinyl, which comes in all colors including black carbon fiber. At $20 for a 5’ roll, I figured why not?

The 1080 is very easy to work with, and very forgiving on installation. However, I found that any imperfection in the dash surface shows through; also, it appears to scuff easily (which can usually be brought back to its original appearance with a little bit of heat) and is VERY fragile. I’d be very reluctant to recommend this product for a dash covering, and if it gets beat up and I have to remove it I’ll use an actual carbon veneer to replace it. Another forum member found some thicker veneer on E-Bay; check here http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24081-Vinyl-wrapped-dash&highlight=dash+1080.

All in all, I’m definitely pleased with the way the dash turned out.


John

[MisterAdam]

73931

Did something different.
Dan

I used the same buttons....where did you get the label?73956

[japollon]

What are you guys using to cut the holes in the dash for the gauges?

[phileas_fogg]

What are you guys using to cut the holes in the dash for the gauges?

To get just the right diameter, I used a Heavy Duty Circle Cutter by General Tools (https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Cutter-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506015889&sr=8-1&keywords=hole+cutter+drill+press) and a drill press. Nerve wracking, but it got the job done. I cut the smaller holes with a step drill. Steve on the other forum suggested using sheet metal screws between the pilot bit and cutter to secure the dash to a backing piece when cutting the gauge holes. This is sound advice; I wish I’d known because doing so would have eliminated a lot of “chatter” from the aluminum.

I had to “massage” the gauge holes to make everything line up perfectly. But that was easily accomplished with a drum sander in the cordless drill.

Cheers,


John

[Straversi]

Clamp your blank to the frame and mark where the hoop is on the back. When you lay out your gauges and indicator lights it gets easy to move things around just a bit and end up drilling your dash and discovering your light is going to interfere with the hoop. Double check before you drill. Sounds like you are using the dash with the pre drilled gauge holes but be careful with indicator/warning light locations.

Also, study the light switch control and how the wires come down from the top, not from the back like everything else. It has a bigger footprint behind the dash than I initially thought, because I only looked at the switch and not the wires.

-Steve

[brewha]

I agree with Straversi about marking the back of the dash with the frame loop. This caused me to have to move a light on a finished dash. The light was in the way because of the loop during installation. It caused me a several day set back to get it fix. I would also to test fit it on the car prior to putting on the vinyl

[FFinisher]

So I'm planning to get to work on my dashboard soon. I have the standard dash that comes with the complete kit. I was hoping to see some photos of some finished dashes. I'm specifically interested in where you located directional and high beam indicators, warning lights, and where you may have positioned any additional switches. If you could include any measurements relative to the existing cut-outs that would be great. I will be using the vintage gauges. Thanks


Not sure how old your kit is or what you have for gauges. BE aware, If you have the GPS gauge you most likely have the directional and high beam indicator in the gauge.


theya re super nice and you wonl;t need to make any holes for the indicators.:cool:

[DowenS]

Thanks everyone for the great information and ideas. I can only hope that my dash looks half as good as the ones posted.

[Gumball]

I did a very traditional S/C layout (OEM Smiths mechanical gauges) with a mix of vintage Ford and Lucas switches, using some original style AC Cars knobs. I have a CAD layout if you're interested, but it only covers the gauges, not the switches.

Ignition and fresh air pull are to the left of the steering wheel, with a red no-charge light above the ignition. Flanking the oil pressure gauge is the blue "brights" light (left) and single green "turn" light (right). To the right of the steering wheel are, from left-to-right along the lower edge - windshield washer spray button, 12v lighter/socket, lights, wipers, heat, and choke (no longer in use). The top row of switches include the horn button (silver, to left of speedo) and the manual cooling fan override and 4-way flashers (the two Lucas blade switches to right of speedo). On the far right side, is a map light and switch (vintage MG parts) and the passenger fresh air pull.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172844286_zpsime5adwh.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172844286_zpsime5adwh.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172813645_zps46wavvuq.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/Graduation/IMG_20150614_172813645_zps46wavvuq.jpg.html)

[japollon]

Chris,

Great layout and similar to what I want. Where did you source the three fluted knobs to the right of your speedometer? What do they control?

Joel